The good drivers I heard them in the Sony and I made it sound good as I 30,000£+ speaker. You might want to try the Tweeter without the grill? I did a lot of work on the tweeters changed it quite a bit there is a simple technique you can use but I'm not going to go into it at the moment. I'll not sure I'm liking the two stuffed ports! I would just have one! Block the other one up with 4" of foam and put a nice thick cardboard tube make it 7.2 inches long in the other one try your carpet shop normally have lots of tubes. I found a third order worked well with the tweeter and a second order work well with the woofer. That woofer is not rolling off could try a 32uF to 38uF bipolar electrolytic cap, after the inductor in parallel, if it seems too much add a 2.5 to 4 ohm resistor in line! with the cap! Also adding a rings to the woofers bring them out more! cut out from an inch of plywood four rings, and ideally a ring on top but that might be difficult using the fastener not really a fan I would just put machine bolts and inserts. and stick the top ring with double-sided tape you want it close to the surround about 1.5mm away no more and then round it off with a ball nose quarter inch inside top front edge probably nice to have one or two braces just use 1-in pine stock I would say back from the tweeter position, and about 5 inches from the back board baffle, if you get the 1-in pine stock cheap to buy cut off the ends glue an inch of it to the side walls and Brace inside between the blocks so it's a rightish fit and let the glue dry 24h then place the brace across with a snug comfortable fit with shims of stiff cardboard on the ends so it's not touching the chipboard, and glue it to the little pieces you added and to the card, use wood glue!!! you can get clamps on them then and clamp the long piece. Glowing a long piece on its ends doesn't hold either very well breaks in time. I wouldn't put a diagonal internal baffle it's not going to work very well take up too much volume the one brace should be fine if you want to use two do the same thing but spread them apart a bit say 5" you should be able to get those speakers to sounds spectacular. make sure the boxes are nice and tight the back is on properly not loose and the front baffle you take everything out and tap it and see if anything sounds loose run the edges with PVA glue
Thanks Mic for the lenthy reply, that all gives me plenty to think about and have a go at over the next few months. I will do one step at time and hear the results. I might have a problem with the 4 ply rings as I have no tools here and woodwork is not my fortay. The bracing sounds straight forward though. Thanks again
@MichaelYates , Hi I have a question about the Seas 25f-ew 10inch bass speaker as the specs say it ment to be in a sealed cabinet but I've added a port to my sony ss5300a speakers that these were fitted in from new and they sound so much better now. I asked on the Seas speaker group and they have all said that it would ruin them using a port. But clearly they can work in a ported cabinet, I'd never heard of the Dynaco A25 but now I have it goes to show how versatile these units are. Thanks
@@carlsmith6564 Interesting to hear that your sony's sound better ported, I cannot see why you can't use these drivers in a ported system. Well the a25 for example are kind of front ported with a system called called Aperiodic Loading, basically a hole with fiberglass stuffed in it, so there is some air that escapes the cabinet, but no where as much as a ported speaker, a little like a transmission line. This is what I have read on all the articals I have looked at on the net. Seems to work well with the Dynaco a10, a25, a35, a45 and a50 range.
Before deciding if they are truly bright, I would change that capacitor, preferably for a polypropylene. The brightness could be from an out of spec cap plus electrolytics can introduce hardness. After then, tweek to ones sound
Hi Michael, I think they have a lot of potential. Good luck tuning them, that will be a learning opportunity as well.
Thanks Hugo, will give me something to do over the next few months.
another good video, thanks for showing us these speakers.
Interesting stuff Michael.👍
Jim🏴🙂
Thanks Jim, all the best as always Michael
The good drivers I heard them in the Sony and I made it sound good as I 30,000£+ speaker. You might want to try the Tweeter without the grill? I did a lot of work on the tweeters changed it quite a bit there is a simple technique you can use but I'm not going to go into it at the moment.
I'll not sure I'm liking the two stuffed ports! I would just have one! Block the other one up with 4" of foam and put a nice thick cardboard tube make it 7.2 inches long in the other one try your carpet shop normally have lots of tubes.
I found a third order worked well with the tweeter and a second order work well with the woofer. That woofer is not rolling off could try a 32uF to 38uF bipolar electrolytic cap, after the inductor in parallel, if it seems too much add a 2.5 to 4 ohm resistor in line! with the cap!
Also adding a rings to the woofers bring them out more! cut out from an inch of plywood four rings, and ideally a ring on top but that might be difficult using the fastener not really a fan I would just put machine bolts and inserts. and stick the top ring with double-sided tape you want it close to the surround about 1.5mm away no more and then round it off with a ball nose quarter inch inside top front edge
probably nice to have one or two braces just use 1-in pine stock I would say back from the tweeter position, and about 5 inches from the back board baffle, if you get the 1-in pine stock cheap to buy cut off the ends glue an inch of it to the side walls and Brace inside between the blocks so it's a rightish fit and let the glue dry 24h then place the brace across with a snug comfortable fit with shims of stiff cardboard on the ends so it's not touching the chipboard, and glue it to the little pieces you added and to the card, use wood glue!!! you can get clamps on them then and clamp the long piece. Glowing a long piece on its ends doesn't hold either very well breaks in time.
I wouldn't put a diagonal internal baffle it's not going to work very well take up too much volume the one brace should be fine if you want to use two do the same thing but spread them apart a bit say 5"
you should be able to get those speakers to sounds spectacular. make sure the boxes are nice and tight the back is on properly not loose and the front baffle you take everything out and tap it and see if anything sounds loose run the edges with PVA glue
Thanks Mic for the lenthy reply, that all gives me plenty to think about and have a go at over the next few months. I will do one step at time and hear the results. I might have a problem with the 4 ply rings as I have no tools here and woodwork is not my fortay. The bracing sounds straight forward though. Thanks again
Hi they look very Scandinavian 😮
Hi, those seas speakers are brilliant, I've got the 10inch bass and really dig low with plenty of kick.
Thanks for the comment, yes they are good drivers, I also have the 10 inch versions in the a25's and a35s
@MichaelYates , Hi I have a question about the Seas 25f-ew 10inch bass speaker as the specs say it ment to be in a sealed cabinet but I've added a port to my sony ss5300a speakers that these were fitted in from new and they sound so much better now. I asked on the Seas speaker group and they have all said that it would ruin them using a port. But clearly they can work in a ported cabinet, I'd never heard of the Dynaco A25 but now I have it goes to show how versatile these units are.
Thanks
@@carlsmith6564 Interesting to hear that your sony's sound better ported, I cannot see why you can't use these drivers in a ported system. Well the a25 for example are kind of front ported with a system called called Aperiodic Loading, basically a hole with fiberglass stuffed in it, so there is some air that escapes the cabinet, but no where as much as a ported speaker, a little like a transmission line. This is what I have read on all the articals I have looked at on the net. Seems to work well with the Dynaco a10, a25, a35, a45 and a50 range.
Before deciding if they are truly bright, I would change that capacitor, preferably for a polypropylene.
The brightness could be from an out of spec cap plus electrolytics can introduce hardness.
After then, tweek to ones sound
Poly caps all sound different and cud make it worse
Thanks, yes I will try a few frist and do one step at a time and stop as soon as I think they are sounding good.