Flic Film's Black White and Green developer. A liquid Xtol? Developing Fomapan 200 and my results.

A liquid version of Xtol? Developing Fomapan 200. Trying out Flic Film's Black White and Green film developer for the 1st time and sharing my results. An economical concentrated one shot liquid vitamin C based film developer claiming a much more eco-friendly footprint.
You can also catch me @fasphoto on Instagram as well a my website at www.fasphoto.net/ Enjoy and if you like my content please hit like and subscribe - thanks for viewing.

[@dorinciobanu33]

Wooauu !

[@dorinciobanu33]

Genius !

[@chriscorey5164]

Fine photos and excellent tonality. Thanks for this information Frank.

[@fasphoto]

Thanks Chris, your welcome.

[@treeskier100]

Very cool, I will have to give Black White & Green a try.

[@fasphoto]

Thank you. It also works good for semi stand development if you do any of that.

[@cunninghamster1954]

Thanks for introducing us to the Black/White & Green developer. The negatives look great and I love the tonality. Looks like really fine grain too.

[@fasphoto]

Thank you and thanks so much for watching. I appreciate it.

[@camerafusion]

Great job as always! 👍

[@fasphoto]

Thank you so much, I greatly appreciate it😊.

[@chriscard6544]

awesome

[@fasphoto]

Thank you Chris

[@yorkieinnz4648]

Hi, Thanks for the video and introduction to this film developer. After recently running out of Xtol and no longer being available, I was looking for another environmentally friendly solution. I live rurally and have a septic tank which I treat with the utmost respect. Not sure when this will become available in New Zealand though.

[@fasphoto]

Thanks so much for the comment. There is also Fomadon Excel W27 and Adox XT3 those are Xtol clones. Not sure if you have access to those.

[@cecilsharps]

your not supposed to agitate the wetting agent. 10 drops seems a bit excessive for a wetting agent in such a small tank. You must have very hard water. Make sure to rinse your tank and reels well. Foamy bubbles from residual wetting agent is just another way to mess up development on the next roll.
With an alkali fix you can cut your rinse time from 10 minutes to under 2 minutes. I'm not sure if clayton is an alkali fix but for me switching to tf4 and tf5 fixers and implementing ilford agitation was game changing. pictorial planet has a video on it.
I use several developers that are thick. 510 pyro being the worst. You can get a huge bag of plastic syringes to measure out the developer if it is too hard to be consistent with a straight pour. My one observation is it might be easier to start with some water in the graduated cylinder then add the concentrate. It doesn't really matter how you do it as long as you can repeat it consistently.
thank you for taking one for the team and trying this developer. I enjoyed your video.

[@fasphoto]

Thanks so much for the comment. I add the Photo Flo directly to the tank that's why I agitate. Old habits are hard to change, been doing that way since 1971 no major issues. Our water is a bit on the hard side though. I did jump the gun a bit and usually wait for the bubbles to dissipate, my bad. I always make sure I rinse my tank and reels toughly, never an issue.
I bought the fixer from Freestyle and fresh, 90 seconds is recommended but I just feel better giving it 3 minutes especially after fixing several rolls. Specs state fixing over 90 seconds is no advantage no mention to a down side for fixing longer. I use hypo check to make sure fixer is not exhausted when I get close to 20 rolls.
I am looking into the syringe though. Looks like it may be a bit better method but the stirring rod seemed to work ok. I appreciate the suggestion.