Kawasaki Valve Lash Adjustment, FR, FS & FX Models (FR691V)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2023
- How to adjust your valves in on a Kawasaki FR691V mower engine. Same procedure applies to all Kawasaki FR, FS & & FX models. Check your valve lash if you are having hard starting and have tried everything else!
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This is how a repair / maintenance video should be done. Excellent!
Appreciate that.
Mower Mike, your approach and description of this type of valve adjustment is truly the best I have seen, and I am a small engine tech. I was not familiar with this adjuster, your video is a one stop complete education on the subject Hats off to you, Sir!
Wow well thanks. Most people just argue with me and my valve adjusting ways. Glad it helped
@@MowerMike I like this adjuster a lot more than the double nut stem adjuster. Adjusted once, not 3-4 times. Now, if it holds is another story! I have 42 plus years of wrenching experience, you're doing a great job.
That valve train set up is slick, thank you.
Yep it is cool, very easy to mess with.
Excellent Video: Cleary shows how the adjustment works, amazing how simple it is. Thank you!!
Yep is a sweet design, I am a big Kawasaki fan.
Thanks man! This would probably explain my sputtering and popping I’m getting under heavy load. I’ll try and adjust my lash this weekend.
Maybe but sounds like it maybe more of a fuel or compression issue. Good luck
@@MowerMike thanks! I’ll figure it out
Very nice. Shows how combustion engines work while explaining the to do and not do for adjusting the valves
Thanks I try to make it simple, check out my other Kawasaki videos
Cool video with the "Inside info" on full display!
Glad you enjoyed it. I have a whole series on this engine for your viewing pleasure
Good video and what what I was looking for. Just FYI On a 4 stroke Intake, Compression, power, exhaust
Glad it helps. And yes you are right, I am just winging it here on these videos lol
Great video! My Deere 636m service manual has the specification of Valve Clearance (Intake and Exhaust) ..............0.05-0.10 mm (0.002-0.004 in). Great job!
Glad it helped, it is a great engine
Great video!!!
Glad it helped
Ty for sharing
You got it!
Prebond is the sealant kawasaki uses for crank case and valve covers!
Ah thanks for the info.
So you mentioned boosting the horsepower. But you didn’t exactly touch on how you did that and I am greatly interested. So far I’ve had to replace the carburetor. I replaced it with a Chinese carburetor which didn’t work very well so I went and got an original Walboro carburetor. There was too much gap eight or 9 thousandths more specifically well over 007 in the number two cylinder exhaust rocker. I tightened that up. It’s closer to 005 right now. I’m having three separate issues number one not achieving 3600 RPM number two I burn up belts like crazy, but every other time I mow the lawn.
Number three occasional backfiring once it starts to backfire it keeps on backfiring
Sounds like it is running too rich. I would fix your mower before you try and boost horsepower. Good luck
@@MowerMike I intend to fix everything first but I am still curious how you “boost horsepower. What is your method?
Without seeing the valves how do you know what is intake or exhaust
You stated 0.004 and 0.006 but you didn't explain at top dead center in the rocker cover what valve is on top? Thats critical to know to do proper adjustments.
I have a cub cadet with a FH430v
The valve lash is pretty much the same on most these motors
Looking at the chart online and it says intake 0.004 and exhaust 0.006 i can only assume you adjust the intake (top) first but i don't know if thats the case and if they are reversed on the other cylinder side of the motor
0.002 isn't that much difference and the motor might run but it won't run right.
It will either run lean or waste gas and run rough.
I have to do my lawn tractor myself
Ive got no way to take it to get serviced, and after changing the starter, and starter relay it still cranks slowly leading me to think the valve lash is wrong.
Last time i used it it ran fine parked it for a few weeks and now won't start, last option is change battery
But now i don't think it was any electrical components, just valve lash causing the problem.
And for a 20 year old lawn tractor with about 300 hours on it that sounds about right.
The one closer to the exhaust manifold is the ???? You got this
Set my fr730 at .004 it is tapping when hot
They all make a little noise, I would just run it till it breaks.
What’s the torque spec
You should Google that ;)
Pretty sure Kawasaki engine is made in usa
Yep they are
intake stroke, compression stroke, combustion stroke, and exhaust stroke.
exhaust stroke is what you referred to as the other top dead center. At that point the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake valve will be opening to start the process over.
Intake stroke, will be a down stroke, ie piston moving downwards allowing air fuel mixture in.
Compression,up stroke, valves must be closed to allow fuel air mixture to be compressed.
Combustion,down stroke, engines spark plug fires,on most engines slightly before top dead center valves are still closed. Commonly referred to as power stroke. Gas air fuel mixture ignites (explosion) pushing piston and rod downward to spin the crank. This is why you want to run the proper fuel in an engine. If you have an engine that needs higher octane and you run lower octane then you risk the compression igniting the fuel before the spark plug ignites it. Heat and compression can cause ignition alone i.e detonation.Lower octane ignites easier than higher. Not related to most lawnmower engines but thought I'd add anyway.
exhaust, up stroke, exhaust valve opens allowing burnt gasses to excape. Thats how ya get your 4 cycles.
On the exhaust stroke as the piston comes up and is pushing the exhaust gaseses out, depending on valve timing, near or at top dead center the exhaust valve will be closing and the intake will start to open. Why there's pressure on the valves and why you don't want to try and adjust valves at that top dead center. I'm no expert just a diy guy but hopefully that clears some things up on that part of the video.
Dang that is a great description. Wish I read this before I shot the video. Thanks!
You gave the torque in ft lbs, not nm. It’s 8.7 ft lbs and 5.2 ft lbs respectively, or in nm 11 nm and 7.05 nm, which, as you stated is not much. 87 ft lbs is gonna ruin someone’s day.
I don’t even know what a nm is.
He said inch pounds not foot pounds. There is a huge difference.
@@AlbertBayer-mm5qy Thanks for the backup!
Way too much work on that engine. Why? I thoughtvthese are good engines.
You should check out one of those new fangled electric mowers.
It's routine maintenance...any small engine will need the valve lash adjusted every couple hundred hours. The only issue these Kawasaki FS/FX/FR engines are known for, from what I've heard over the years, is valve train problems due to lack of routine valve lash adjustments (letting the valve springs weaken, valves/valve guides/valve seats work themselves loose).
Stop calling the engine a motor 😂
Motor Motor Motor Motor ;)