I have an HD36. I have added more log rests and bunks. I don't have the log turner or the hydraulic clamp. But I have the log loader and the adjustable bunks. I've been running northern blades and since I had a handful of used blades I decided to sharpen them and check the set. Well, on their blades in my opinion the set is awful. I'm tempted to sit down and reset a new blade right out of the box. It's a little muddy where I have my mill set up otherwise I'm interested in trying to cut with the blades that I have sharpened and set. I haven't been able to use them yet. Otherwise I love my Mill.
Good morning Sir. I to have a hd36v2 but on a trailer. My mill is manual for now, but like you I’m an older fella to, and will get hydraulics when I can. I was running the Norwood blades at first, but wasn’t getting much time on them. My logs are cedar and pine with some for mixed in. I pressure wash them to get all the mud and grit off them before I start. I was getting only about 45 minutes per blade. I switched to wood mizer double hard blade and they last almost all day and when on sale are cheaper than Norwood. Win/win/win! I would like to get a couple more bunks as the spacing is a little too far apart for me. I love my mill it’s really fun to be able to build what I want with my own lumber from my trees. I have a question about the pump engine. Can you idle it down or turn it off when not in use? It seems very loud, louder than the sawmill! I’m about to buy the blade rollers and swap the ceramics, I’m looking for a smoother cut, less blade deflection through the knots. Funny thing Norwood just called and I ordered the blade guide rollers. Thanks for sharing, your channel is what? I want to watch it. God bless you and yours!
Jim from Mountain Top sawing doesn’t have a channel. I’ll be posting more videos of his setup here on my channel. I don’t think he can turn the hydraulic motor down. And it is very noisy compared to the saw engine. Jim also recently ordered new woodmizer blades. Thanks for watching! -Jeff
You can shut the pump engine off when not in use, Plank Mills does it all the time and just cranks it on when he needs it. He switched to rollers and showed a huge difference in straight cuts, only thing is you have to rig up a mount for the lube tube.
I think that I would turn the sawhead 180° around. To get further under the roof and to blow sawdust out. Or then build a retaining wall. But that is just me, I am sure that that is the better way to do it 👍🏼.
@@justinrussell760 Loading with a tractor, what difference does it make? Why walk outside blowing dust in when one can walk inside blowing dust out? As I said, other know better than me...
@@johanneslaxell6641 Well, the optimal setup would have a log deck at sawmill height so you could have a half dozen logs ready to roll on the mill instead of running after a log on the tractor every time you finish a log. Each to their own. Log stops would be on the wrong side so if that log rolls off the wrong way if you forget to put stops up it will be inside on the ground where you can't get at it easy. Every situation and set up is different so whatever works. I'll leave ya's alone.
As an owner of one there are some negatives that seem to be on all of these. The plastic front guards in the center where the 2 cutoff actuators are don't stay in tight, at least not for long and they won't click or when you bump it it will cut the engine off. The sawhead doesn't lower to a 1 inch cut well because of the plastic front guards jam down on the bottom roller bar. I watch Plank Mills and he swapped the ceramics out for rollers and that remedied it because they deflect the blade down a quarter inch. The water lube is elementary and I had to put a shim in where the mechanism pinches the tube in order to keep the water from trickling when not in use and I had it adjusted as far as it would go. Many of these machines seem to not raise the head evenly no matter what you do, mine lifts the operators side first so the other side lags behind a touch...I had a heck of a time trying to remedy this but I found no solution...so I raise to a bit above my measurement then lower to the measurement to get the head to level out. Caleb Plank had all these issues as did I. They are a good machine but the engineers screwed up on these things. Mine is all manual so I may invest in some of the bells and whistles you have eventually. Or I may opt for a Wood Mizer LT 40, not sure yet. Happy sawing!!
One question is you need to move the log back as it looks like the front of the log is sticking to fay off the bunk, You will have better luck turning the log if the turner is in the middle of the log. Did you get power feed down and back?
It has manual up and down with. A hand crank. It moves pretty easy. And because it was a 7’ log w head to move it forward to stay on the bottom bunks. Typical will be cutting 10’ plus material so it won’t be a issue then. Thanks for watching!
Jim n Jeff just some good ole boys always up to some good
Thanks for watching buddy!
Good job. Have fun getting to know your mill. I have the same one and I’m in my second year using it.
I have an HD36. I have added more log rests and bunks. I don't have the log turner or the hydraulic clamp. But I have the log loader and the adjustable bunks. I've been running northern blades and since I had a handful of used blades I decided to sharpen them and check the set. Well, on their blades in my opinion the set is awful. I'm tempted to sit down and reset a new blade right out of the box. It's a little muddy where I have my mill set up otherwise I'm interested in trying to cut with the blades that I have sharpened and set. I haven't been able to use them yet. Otherwise I love my Mill.
Good morning Sir. I to have a hd36v2 but on a trailer. My mill is manual for now, but like you I’m an older fella to, and will get hydraulics when I can.
I was running the Norwood blades at first, but wasn’t getting much time on them. My logs are cedar and pine with some for mixed in. I pressure wash them to get all the mud and grit off them before I start. I was getting only about 45 minutes per blade.
I switched to wood mizer double hard blade and they last almost all day and when on sale are cheaper than Norwood. Win/win/win!
I would like to get a couple more bunks as the spacing is a little too far apart for me.
I love my mill it’s really fun to be able to build what I want with my own lumber from my trees.
I have a question about the pump engine. Can you idle it down or turn it off when not in use? It seems very loud, louder than the sawmill!
I’m about to buy the blade rollers and swap the ceramics, I’m looking for a smoother cut, less blade deflection through the knots. Funny thing Norwood just called and I ordered the blade guide rollers.
Thanks for sharing, your channel is what? I want to watch it. God bless you and yours!
Jim from Mountain Top sawing doesn’t have a channel. I’ll be posting more videos of his setup here on my channel. I don’t think he can turn the hydraulic motor down. And it is very noisy compared to the saw engine. Jim also recently ordered new woodmizer blades. Thanks for watching! -Jeff
You can shut the pump engine off when not in use, Plank Mills does it all the time and just cranks it on when he needs it. He switched to rollers and showed a huge difference in straight cuts, only thing is you have to rig up a mount for the lube tube.
I think that I would turn the sawhead 180° around. To get further under the roof and to blow sawdust out. Or then build a retaining wall.
But that is just me, I am sure that that is the better way to do it 👍🏼.
Then your loading side is inside the building.
@@justinrussell760 Loading with a tractor, what difference does it make? Why walk outside blowing dust in when one can walk inside blowing dust out?
As I said, other know better than me...
@@johanneslaxell6641 Well, the optimal setup would have a log deck at sawmill height so you could have a half dozen logs ready to roll on the mill instead of running after a log on the tractor every time you finish a log. Each to their own. Log stops would be on the wrong side so if that log rolls off the wrong way if you forget to put stops up it will be inside on the ground where you can't get at it easy. Every situation and set up is different so whatever works. I'll leave ya's alone.
As an owner of one there are some negatives that seem to be on all of these. The plastic front guards in the center where the 2 cutoff actuators are don't stay in tight, at least not for long and they won't click or when you bump it it will cut the engine off. The sawhead doesn't lower to a 1 inch cut well because of the plastic front guards jam down on the bottom roller bar. I watch Plank Mills and he swapped the ceramics out for rollers and that remedied it because they deflect the blade down a quarter inch. The water lube is elementary and I had to put a shim in where the mechanism pinches the tube in order to keep the water from trickling when not in use and I had it adjusted as far as it would go. Many of these machines seem to not raise the head evenly no matter what you do, mine lifts the operators side first so the other side lags behind a touch...I had a heck of a time trying to remedy this but I found no solution...so I raise to a bit above my measurement then lower to the measurement to get the head to level out. Caleb Plank had all these issues as did I. They are a good machine but the engineers screwed up on these things. Mine is all manual so I may invest in some of the bells and whistles you have eventually. Or I may opt for a Wood Mizer LT 40, not sure yet. Happy sawing!!
One question is you need to move the log back as it looks like the front of the log is sticking to fay off the bunk, You will have better luck turning the log if the turner is in the middle of the log. Did you get power feed down and back?
It has manual up and down with. A hand crank. It moves pretty easy. And because it was a 7’ log w head to move it forward to stay on the bottom bunks. Typical will be cutting 10’ plus material so it won’t be a issue then. Thanks for watching!