My dad is gone now but this short video brought back such memories. As kids we knew the mix he wanted and followed him as he worked around our house. Hauling brick in our little red wagon, wetting it down and away we went doing our brick work. Life long memories cherished...
I tried it. It was cheap and more importantly I could control the timing of a Sunday evening job. 3-4 yard driveway extension. 10x20' ,4-5 inch, $150 bagged Portland, free sand, $80 rock, $100 home depot gas powered towable mixer, $(350 total) (as opposed to $800 truck) ,,trailer of materials, 2 guys and a shovel. Alot of work 5 hours. We were 1 guy short..-couldn't mix fast enough,,, Shoveled in 3 2 1 mix. Sprayed water hose in at a fixed count. It came out OK but quality of concrete vastly inferior to truck delivered. Triple the work. I had hard time with consistency. It looked great when I troweled and broomed... For 6 months.. First freeze-horror show... some spots were pure sand- i could scratch away with my boot.. I hit it with Quickrete concrete resurfacer which I love. Fixed it perfect for a couple months.. Delaminated. Not resurfacers fault,,, sandy spots just weren't solid. Anyway, as long as I resurface each spring it's great, pretty easy 4 hour project each year but I just say "heads up". If you can order $800 delivered truck it's worth it. I'll probably try again if timing convenience dictates but next time I'll double the Portland,, and mix longer/more consistently, ,should be better,...probably,,, maybe,, DieHard Do-it-yourselfers unite!!!
You want to add water a little at a time as you are mixing it. You need to keep the water down to a minimum amount. It depends on the application of the concrete, the amount of moisture in the gravel and sand. You want to mix it so that it will work into the formwork and fill all of the voids. To do that you can use a concert vibrator or tap the forms with a hammer or a piece of lumber to remove air pockets. One other thing is to use torpedo sand for structural applications. You can use masons sand for a finer finish for a floor. Also for exterior applications you want to use gravel that is chert free. Chert is dust that moisture is holding it to the gravel. So if you were to pour an exterior slab, you could ask your supplier you want the gravel to be chert free. Or if you are mixing something small you could simply wash the chert off the gravel by hand. What the chert does is it retains moisture and during a freeze thaw cycle it will force the topping to spall. It also deters the cement from bonding to the gravel. Its also good to some the gravel down before mixing. Very dry gravel in dry and warm conditions will cause the concrete to shrink at a fast rate. During these condition it helps to wet cure the concrete. It involves keeping the concrete wet during a period of time till the concrete reaches a specific psi.
thank you so much, I need just a little bit of concrete, and concrete mix bags are expensive where I live, and of course, I don't need that much. Good thing is, I can buy cement by weight, so I'll just buy as much as I need. Sand and stone are free, since where I live I have a ton I can just grab.
80lbs bag of 4000psi is $4, even cheaper in bulk. Want it even stronger? Buy chopped fiber online and mix in your own glass. If you are pouring something large, ordering with a concrete co is still going to be cheaper than mixing your own from raw (assuming nyou even have the ability to mix enough at a time to get it all in the same pour).
Great advice! You seem to know your stuff. One question if I may? Instead of stone what can I add that’s lighter to make stone veneers?? Someone said I should use peat moss. What do you think?
Did my garage slab for $700 cheaper than what it would have cost to order, and I'm only 15-20 minutes outside of the capital city - that's including the cost of my time as a building contractor and my helpers. Surely that extra $700 wouldn't have been a delivery charge...maybe I'm missing something... As Blox117 pointed out as well, fiberglass doesn't increase compressive strength - it just aids in controlling inevitable cracks in large slabs and preventing shifting after they form, similar to wire mesh or rebar. It has nothing to do with increasing the strength of the concrete itself.
Ladywood2 generally fibers are added to stop the concrete from breaking and cracking due to forces that try to pull it apart. concrete itself is only good at being compressed (being pushed flat) and is not good at being deformed or bent like plastics and metals are, so they add metal rebar or plastic/glass fibers to give the concrete the benefit those other materials have without losing much of the compressive strength of normal concrete. technically the original comment is correct in stating that the added fibers make the concrete "stronger", but he seems to compare the added benefit directly to the compressive strength of a bag of concrete, which he stated was 4000psi. basically, the psi number will not go up by adding fibers. as for your first question (if you are still reading at this point), there is a plastic stone veneer which would work really well if you are trying to install it inside. they are even UV protected so you can use them on the outside as well, and they come in square panels so you don't even have to lay down a pattern for the stones. these plastic stone veneer can even be glued/drilled (or so I've seen) instead of the normal process, which is a big time and effort saver. in any case, if you were going with normal stone veneer you wouldn't use normal concrete but instead a mortar mix. and as for the second question, you can increase the psi rating of a normal bag of concrete based upon the ratio of stone and aggregate, adding less water (but still enough for the concrete to cure), and generally just making sure it is thoroughly mixed evenly. there is a great video on this topic called: Why Concrete Needs Reinforcement by Practical Engineering.
I've worked with concrete for the last 44 years. The ratios for a good rich mix is, 3 parts gravel, 2 parts sand , 1 part Portland cement. the other thing is for concrete you need to use type 1 Portland cement.
Thanks foe the video, it's very helpful to me, a home owner trying to do stuff by my own. About the comments, wow, I knew the "experts" and PhD in concrete would make bad coments.. common, if you're an expert, why are watching a how to video meant for beginners? If you know the "right" way to do it, make your own video and upload it, although be careful with the comments from experts.
Kevin, when there's only one other person in the room, Kevin, you don't need to keep saying his name, Kevin. It's implied, Kevin. Just breakin stones guys, appreciate the vid!
Mr Geronimo they are just usually so good about using PPE in any other scenario and making homeowners aware of how important it is. A chainsaw accident, hearing loss, or falling off a ladder is horrible but silicosis is even worse.
Mr Geronimo You sound like a fellow cop I used to know that would make fun of people’s safety equipment. One day he got his eye gouged out by a high heel. I guess you could say he didn’t see it coming.
Yep. take a few deep breaths, hold your breath, dump your bag in, back off away from the mixer until it clears. If you are mixing in a little tub like that, use a mask. It's TOXIC.
This was very informative. Thank you! What if you want to make a very thin concrete? Would you just simply remove the rock? Or replace it with something else?
Great info, but if you have a big project, why not just order a ready mix delivery. It may be a few dollars more, but most people don't factor in the value of their time it would take to mix all that concrete by hand.
I find guidance like "not too wet" and "not too much" useless. By definition, you don't want "too much" or "too little" of anything, but that doesn't say anything about how to know where that point is. Thankfully, in this case, he also mentioned the trowel-smoothing criterion.
i agree. so here is some information. you want somewhere between 55%(about as dry as you can work with)(and strongest) - 70%(completely saturated) water to cement ratio by weight. so a 90 lb bag of concrete would need aprox (60%) 54 lbs of water. water weighs about 8.345 lbs per gallon. so about 6.5 gallons. but be careful, the difference between "not enough" and "too much" is only about half a gallon. if your sand is wet, those water numbers could be cut in half because of the water content already "in the mix". this is why he resorts to "not too wet" and "not too much". it is very difficult to "coach" someone by first asking "what is the water content of the sand you are using?". for me, i want it as dry as possible and still get the job done. for example, if you are pouring a walkway and want to be able to "pound" some sort of texture into it, then mix it really dry. if you are pouring reinforced columns and dont want the gravel hanging up inside and creating air pockets, then mix it a little more wet.
Can i use pebbles for stones? I am going to make some concrete weight plates but i dont have a source of stone nearby, however i have a source of pebbles and sand in the river!
The mixing ratios are good but most pros lay the stones/aggregate first and pour concrete on top, it makes a stronger surface with less cracking. Always wear a mask when mixing, you don't want cement in your lungs!
This is completely false. The gravel bed to which you are referring serves a totally different purpose: drainage. Your concrete mix still requires stone regardless.
Bahaha...must be the chef/baker in me...reminds me of making food...dry ingredients first, dredge the rocks and add just enough water to blend...thanks
Here in Argentina is the same, in every construction mixes his own concrete, at least is a very large building or a big column you call a truck, i think is very common in Europe like Spain, Italy they usually mix themselves.
Well he did say premix was mostly for quick patches, this video is aimed at homeowners who would probably be dealing with mostly small odd jobs when it comes to concrete so would turn to premix often. Personally I've used up to like 15 bags of premix on a job, but this is on farmland where I'm laying some footing for a pump, or solar panel, or doing post footings and everything got to fit in the back of the vehicle and go up the back paddocks to a site with no power and premix is so much easier in those places.
Question: I am Az and I noticed there is a soft material around the concrete slab near all the doors to the house. What is that? Some one told me it’s to spray the big spray on. Anyone knows what is it called?
@@rchavez5056Actually, try not to let the stones go to the bottom but barely enough to get a finish. The stone is the filler after all and is what gives the cement paste (Water+Cement) something to bind to. Don't over vibrate your concrete.
I am no expert but I know that there is a difference between lets say desert sand vs beach sand. I would do some research depending on the project you are looking for. Just know that they are not all the same
I think they got the sand and stone backwards. It's 1 part Portland, 2 parts sand, 3 parts stone. Their mix will have too much sand and make too much creme.
That batch looks a bit dry, too much aggregate and not enough Portland . I guess wherever works for you is the Ratio because I do it equal parts and is nice strong pasty and good for finishing.
Just add a little at a time to reach desired wetness. You'll end up with to much if you dump in a measured amount. It's always different depending on humidity, moister of sand and aggravate.
@@Goodnewsglobal He was talking about a condition in which things exist, such as solid liquid gas plasma, so you are correct, Portland exists in a State of matter. Derived from Latin Borough, in which City comes from, and where the Portland goes... in a borough, a wheel borough.
Its easy, just put 4 sand around a piece of dye, then put 4 gravel in the corners, then place it and add in water or as they did, put it in water, mine it, and then take it to its desired location. (Joke)
Concrete with TOO LITTLE water will not be fully reacted. Concrete with LESS water will make a a stronger concrete but less workable because it's much harder to shape it and get it into forms. Concrete with MORE water, the one on the site, is easier to work with at a cost for some strength. Concrete with TOO MUCH water will cause more pores in the concrete, and wont bind the aggregate to the cement paste properly, making it really weak
The concrete business is dominated by organized crime. What better way to get rid of your enemies than by casting them a pair of concrete shoes and dumping them in a river or lake. So they can sleep with the fishes.....
That was nice of him trying to help people that don't have a lot of money for a project, but the other guy making him look dumb and complicated just so he can keep getting kickbacks and commercials from the big bag company's,,
Where can you find these items I'm trying to build a underground places a secret place and I looked up u need cement for the walls and floor and roof I dont know what I'm doing and I cant have anyone know or it's not a secret anymore so I need your help is there anything that you can find outside to make cement or something strong I could use to build with Pls help me out I beg ya😓😢
Well surprisingly enough a president of a construction company knows how to mix pour for a slab. Most of the time they only know how to yell and talk on the phone.
My dad is gone now but this short video brought back such memories. As kids we knew the mix he wanted and followed him as he worked around our house. Hauling brick in our little red wagon, wetting it down and away we went doing our brick work.
Life long memories cherished...
That’s really cool Harold! Very sweet memories indeed I’m sure
Rose 🌹
When doing larger projects, were do you order this in bulk?
I tried it. It was cheap and more importantly I could control the timing of a Sunday evening job. 3-4 yard driveway extension. 10x20' ,4-5 inch, $150 bagged Portland, free sand, $80 rock, $100 home depot gas powered towable mixer, $(350 total) (as opposed to $800 truck) ,,trailer of materials, 2 guys and a shovel. Alot of work 5 hours. We were 1 guy short..-couldn't mix fast enough,,, Shoveled in 3 2 1 mix. Sprayed water hose in at a fixed count. It came out OK but quality of concrete vastly inferior to truck delivered. Triple the work. I had hard time with consistency. It looked great when I troweled and broomed... For 6 months.. First freeze-horror show... some spots were pure sand- i could scratch away with my boot.. I hit it with Quickrete concrete resurfacer which I love. Fixed it perfect for a couple months.. Delaminated. Not resurfacers fault,,, sandy spots just weren't solid. Anyway, as long as I resurface each spring it's great, pretty easy 4 hour project each year but I just say "heads up". If you can order $800 delivered truck it's worth it. I'll probably try again if timing convenience dictates but next time I'll double the Portland,, and mix longer/more consistently, ,should be better,...probably,,, maybe,, DieHard Do-it-yourselfers unite!!!
Woa that’s quite a story for a failure
You want to add water a little at a time as you are mixing it. You need to keep the water down to a minimum amount. It depends on the application of the concrete, the amount of moisture in the gravel and sand. You want to mix it so that it will work into the formwork and fill all of the voids. To do that you can use a concert vibrator or tap the forms with a hammer or a piece of lumber to remove air pockets.
One other thing is to use torpedo sand for structural applications. You can use masons sand for a finer finish for a floor.
Also for exterior applications you want to use gravel that is chert free. Chert is dust that moisture is holding it to the gravel.
So if you were to pour an exterior slab, you could ask your supplier you want the gravel to be chert free. Or if you are mixing something small you could simply wash the chert off the gravel by hand. What the chert does is it retains moisture and during a freeze thaw cycle it will force the topping to spall. It also deters the cement from bonding to the gravel.
Its also good to some the gravel down before mixing. Very dry gravel in dry and warm conditions will cause the concrete to shrink at a fast rate. During these condition it helps to wet cure the concrete. It involves keeping the concrete wet during a period of time till the concrete reaches a specific psi.
Wow thanks for info.
thank you so much, I need just a little bit of concrete, and concrete mix bags are expensive where I live, and of course, I don't need that much.
Good thing is, I can buy cement by weight, so I'll just buy as much as I need.
Sand and stone are free, since where I live I have a ton I can just grab.
Might be a good idea to use a dust mask. You don't want to be breathing in cement dust.
also using hand gloves would be good idea
Pretty rock solid on that comment.
I’ve worked laying concrete for years, no mask, no gloves. 100% fine
@@fukusmurk6580 just needs to build up in your body for it to show in your elderly age or for things to go wrong once.
@@fukusmurk6580 No silicosis then?
80lbs bag of 4000psi is $4, even cheaper in bulk. Want it even stronger? Buy chopped fiber online and mix in your own glass. If you are pouring something large, ordering with a concrete co is still going to be cheaper than mixing your own from raw (assuming nyou even have the ability to mix enough at a time to get it all in the same pour).
Great advice! You seem to know your stuff. One question if I may? Instead of stone what can I add that’s lighter to make stone veneers?? Someone said I should use peat moss. What do you think?
fibers do not increase compressive strength
Did my garage slab for $700 cheaper than what it would have cost to order, and I'm only 15-20 minutes outside of the capital city - that's including the cost of my time as a building contractor and my helpers. Surely that extra $700 wouldn't have been a delivery charge...maybe I'm missing something...
As Blox117 pointed out as well, fiberglass doesn't increase compressive strength - it just aids in controlling inevitable cracks in large slabs and preventing shifting after they form, similar to wire mesh or rebar. It has nothing to do with increasing the strength of the concrete itself.
Blox117 ... Really? What does? I’m just curious.
Ladywood2 generally fibers are added to stop the concrete from breaking and cracking due to forces that try to pull it apart. concrete itself is only good at being compressed (being pushed flat) and is not good at being deformed or bent like plastics and metals are, so they add metal rebar or plastic/glass fibers to give the concrete the benefit those other materials have without losing much of the compressive strength of normal concrete.
technically the original comment is correct in stating that the added fibers make the concrete "stronger", but he seems to compare the added benefit directly to the compressive strength of a bag of concrete, which he stated was 4000psi. basically, the psi number will not go up by adding fibers.
as for your first question (if you are still reading at this point), there is a plastic stone veneer which would work really well if you are trying to install it inside. they are even UV protected so you can use them on the outside as well, and they come in square panels so you don't even have to lay down a pattern for the stones. these plastic stone veneer can even be glued/drilled (or so I've seen) instead of the normal process, which is a big time and effort saver. in any case, if you were going with normal stone veneer you wouldn't use normal concrete but instead a mortar mix.
and as for the second question, you can increase the psi rating of a normal bag of concrete based upon the ratio of stone and aggregate, adding less water (but still enough for the concrete to cure), and generally just making sure it is thoroughly mixed evenly. there is a great video on this topic called: Why Concrete Needs Reinforcement by Practical Engineering.
I've worked with concrete for the last 44 years. The ratios for a good rich mix is, 3 parts gravel, 2 parts sand , 1 part Portland cement.
the other thing is for concrete you need to use type 1 Portland cement.
Water ratio?
What are the different types of Portland for
Still waiting
Mark McCullough, master mason, mixes minerals mindfully.
Thanks foe the video, it's very helpful to me, a home owner trying to do stuff by my own. About the comments, wow, I knew the "experts" and PhD in concrete would make bad coments.. common, if you're an expert, why are watching a how to video meant for beginners? If you know the "right" way to do it, make your own video and upload it, although be careful with the comments from experts.
me after watching “how to make your own dumbbells”
Nice job
Yess me too lol
Metoo😂
Hit the nail right on the head
yezzir
Kevin, when there's only one other person in the room, Kevin, you don't need to keep saying his name, Kevin. It's implied, Kevin. Just breakin stones guys, appreciate the vid!
Great information, though I wish they would have worn a mask, silica dust is not something you want to breathe in any amount of if you can prevent it.
Well, aren't you just a fun filled lollipop!
Mr Geronimo they are just usually so good about using PPE in any other scenario and making homeowners aware of how important it is. A chainsaw accident, hearing loss, or falling off a ladder is horrible but silicosis is even worse.
Where was the eye protection? That dust or aggregate could get loose. Just PPE all out! LOL
But in reality I was wondering the same thing.
Mr Geronimo because incurable diseases that are easily preventable are so much fun, right?
Mr Geronimo You sound like a fellow cop I used to know that would make fun of people’s safety equipment. One day he got his eye gouged out by a high heel. I guess you could say he didn’t see it coming.
I hold my breath when they starting putting the cement in
Why
I sneeze
Yep. take a few deep breaths, hold your breath, dump your bag in, back off away from the mixer until it clears. If you are mixing in a little tub like that, use a mask. It's TOXIC.
I coughed up blood
He likes scraping the bottom of the tub, that's for sure. Lift and turn the material.
Where can we get the raw materials for the mix?
This was very informative. Thank you! What if you want to make a very thin concrete? Would you just simply remove the rock? Or replace it with something else?
Smaller aggregate, not less.
Use chap gravel, cheaper the better oddly enough cause cheap gravel has more surface area due to sharp edges
Sakrete offers a sand mix for thinner sections and for getting better detail.
Gravel
So, what is "portland"? It looks like the binding agent, but how can you make that?
Kinda reminds me of mixing up dough for pie crusts. Gotta do it just right!
Looks like scooping a litter box! Thanks for the info!
What a great idea 💡 can you use different size aggregate?
Great info, but if you have a big project, why not just order a ready mix delivery. It may be a few dollars more, but most people don't factor in the value of their time it would take to mix all that concrete by hand.
As an internet troll I have all the time in the world, KEKEKE
Yes! More budget option vids please.
Thanks for the vedioe, do these ingredients work for a second floor beam and blocks??
Learn something new every day!
Mark is a badass!! Are those Boston Sand Castle buckets?? 😊Thanks for the guidance on how to make artisanal concrete!
Your Hawdwer store, Love it. 😁
How long do you cook it for? For some reason it is always salty. Tastes great though 10/10.
I find guidance like "not too wet" and "not too much" useless. By definition, you don't want "too much" or "too little" of anything, but that doesn't say anything about how to know where that point is.
Thankfully, in this case, he also mentioned the trowel-smoothing criterion.
ncooty Your nightmarish comments sound nearly genocidal in their meanness!!!!!!!!
i agree. so here is some information. you want somewhere between 55%(about as dry as you can work with)(and strongest) - 70%(completely saturated) water to cement ratio by weight. so a 90 lb bag of concrete would need aprox (60%) 54 lbs of water. water weighs about 8.345 lbs per gallon. so about 6.5 gallons. but be careful, the difference between "not enough" and "too much" is only about half a gallon.
if your sand is wet, those water numbers could be cut in half because of the water content already "in the mix". this is why he resorts to "not too wet" and "not too much". it is very difficult to "coach" someone by first asking "what is the water content of the sand you are using?".
for me, i want it as dry as possible and still get the job done. for example, if you are pouring a walkway and want to be able to "pound" some sort of texture into it, then mix it really dry. if you are pouring reinforced columns and dont want the gravel hanging up inside and creating air pockets, then mix it a little more wet.
After you mixed up all your blue buckets of material did that make a 60lb bag of concrete? What volume are the blue buckets?
whens the growing part?
Yes!!! Breathe all that cement in..
Any advice if I want to make a quick set cement for fence posts? Thanks!
When do you add the yeast?
where is the video of tom silv /, building stairs outside on un level landing ,he shows how to measure and cut the risers to fit an un level landing
Can you do one with sand shells and ashes?
Thank you for sharing this is video.... seen to be Isn't that much hard to work
Can i use pebbles for stones? I am going to make some concrete weight plates but i dont have a source of stone nearby, however i have a source of pebbles and sand in the river!
The mixing ratios are good but most pros lay the stones/aggregate first and pour concrete on top, it makes a stronger surface with less cracking. Always wear a mask when mixing, you don't want cement in your lungs!
This is completely false. The gravel bed to which you are referring serves a totally different purpose: drainage. Your concrete mix still requires stone regardless.
I would think those rocks were kind of big. Never seen cement that chunky.
hope you guys get to 1 million subscribers and great video as well 😄
Bahaha...must be the chef/baker in me...reminds me of making food...dry ingredients first, dredge the rocks and add just enough water to blend...thanks
“Hmmmm this might come in handy for a later project”
- John Wick
Ahhh nothing like breathing in that silica. Good job, explaining to wear a mask 👌
Very helpful
I go Fourth, I had no idea people did not mix it themselves, I thought premix was just for a quick fix. probably different there to here in the UK
Here in Argentina is the same, in every construction mixes his own concrete, at least is a very large building or a big column you call a truck, i think is very common in Europe like Spain, Italy they usually mix themselves.
Weird, I've never mixed it, just buy Sackrete.
Well he did say premix was mostly for quick patches, this video is aimed at homeowners who would probably be dealing with mostly small odd jobs when it comes to concrete so would turn to premix often. Personally I've used up to like 15 bags of premix on a job, but this is on farmland where I'm laying some footing for a pump, or solar panel, or doing post footings and everything got to fit in the back of the vehicle and go up the back paddocks to a site with no power and premix is so much easier in those places.
What is your ratio? 1 cement, 2 sand, 3 gravel? I thought that was common, not 2 gravel, 3 sand.
Question: I am Az and I noticed there is a soft material around the concrete slab near all the doors to the house. What is that? Some one told me it’s to spray the big spray on. Anyone knows what is it called?
GREAT VIDEO
Can you use beach sand
How big are the buckets
Interesting information!
What type/size of stone?
ok i dont want to make my own.. but what is that bag of cement called ?? cuz I need to find it in uk :)
Very informative. I love this old house
how do you make cement that dries underwater??? can someone tell me
It all dries under water. If contained in an area, like the bag it comes in, so it doesn't wash away before it has time to dry.
thanks
What are the measurements of each bucket.?
Doesn't matter what size bucket, as long as you use the same size bucket and keep your ratios the same as they showed in the video.
How big is the bucket?
Thanks so much.
Can i mix this without the stone, im pouring a walk way, and dont want to have to worry about the stone on top. I want a smooth surface.
The stone will sink to the bottom, once you start to float it.
@@rchavez5056Actually, try not to let the stones go to the bottom but barely enough to get a finish. The stone is the filler after all and is what gives the cement paste (Water+Cement) something to bind to. Don't over vibrate your concrete.
Newbie question...
Any particular kind of sand? Are all sands pretty much the same?
I am no expert but I know that there is a difference between lets say desert sand vs beach sand. I would do some research depending on the project you are looking for. Just know that they are not all the same
Wear a mask when mixing & use a Hoe with a long handle, makes it ALOT easier to mix👍👍
Excellent job
So to make a strong concrete mix it's 1 part cement 2 parts gravel and 3 parts sand?
I think they got the sand and stone backwards. It's 1 part Portland, 2 parts sand, 3 parts stone. Their mix will have too much sand and make too much creme.
@@bozzaa that's what I'm seeing anywhere else.
That batch looks a bit dry, too much aggregate and not enough Portland . I guess wherever works for you is the Ratio because I do it equal parts and is nice strong pasty and good for finishing.
What if you make it without the aggregate? Would the texture be smoother and still strong enough?
It would be mortar…
I dont think you wanna do in indoor and breathing those things into your lungs
Small amounts won't do damage to your system. The body can easily get it out.
Got it; Always remember, just make sure you don't put juice in a concrete mix instead of water. ☝️🙂
The volume of added water would have helped a lot
Just add a little at a time to reach desired wetness. You'll end up with to much if you dump in a measured amount. It's always different depending on humidity, moister of sand and aggravate.
Where can I purchase aggregate like that? I am located near Chicago, IL.
How Long would it take to dry
Stage five of the curing process, which is pretty much good, is reached after a good 36 hours
Gonna wanna
Where can I get Portland please answer
Any home improvement store, Home Depot, Lowe's or local stores..
why is on of the three ingredients just store bought concrete?
What is Portland? Thought that was a state..
Its a city in a state.
@@Reach3DPrinters Was he not talking about cement?!
@@Goodnewsglobal He was talking about a condition in which things exist, such as solid liquid gas plasma, so you are correct, Portland exists in a State of matter. Derived from Latin Borough, in which City comes from, and where the Portland goes... in a borough, a wheel borough.
@@Reach3DPrinters Ah, thanks!! 👍
@@Goodnewsglobal LOL :)
Its easy, just put 4 sand around a piece of dye, then put 4 gravel in the corners, then place it and add in water or as they did, put it in water, mine it, and then take it to its desired location.
(Joke)
Welllllll...I guess my question is how to make my own Portland mix?
Buy a rotating oven that heats up to 3000 degrees and mine some limestone iron ore and other stuff and bake it until little balls
Where the mask for them not to breath in that cement
bucket size?
its unimportant, the ratio is what matters
PORTLAND CEMENT IS EXPENSIVE PER BAG
What??...that end mix was a lot drier than the slurry they serve up at the site!
Concrete with TOO LITTLE water will not be fully reacted. Concrete with LESS water will make a a stronger concrete but less workable because it's much harder to shape it and get it into forms. Concrete with MORE water, the one on the site, is easier to work with at a cost for some strength. Concrete with TOO MUCH water will cause more pores in the concrete, and wont bind the aggregate to the cement paste properly, making it really weak
@@stanleyramirez4422 Interesting info, thanks.
I also read it should be 1 cement, 2 sand, 3 gravel.... not 1 cement, 2 gravel, 3 sand.
can you make a fake concrete pizza out of concrete if you paint it the proper colors after?
Breath it all in.
Yea, I'd definitely screw that up.
watched this after watching how to make your own pizza oven
This video uses ready-made concrete mix. it has nothing to do with making the Portland cement itself.
Do you have to sound like a mafia boss in order to get on this show?
The concrete business is dominated by organized crime.
What better way to get rid of your enemies than by casting them a pair of concrete shoes and dumping them in a river or lake.
So they can sleep with the fishes.....
countertop table concrete anyone?
That was nice of him trying to help people that don't have a lot of money for a project, but the other guy making him look dumb and complicated just so he can keep getting kickbacks and commercials from the big bag company's,,
Where can you find these items I'm trying to build a underground places a secret place and I looked up u need cement for the walls and floor and roof I dont know what I'm doing and I cant have anyone know or it's not a secret anymore so I need your help is there anything that you can find outside to make cement or something strong I could use to build with
Pls help me out I beg ya😓😢
R u good
1/2/3
Use Gloves ! Mask, Eye protection . Safety First !
Lame I t hought you were gonna show how to make the cement too
Well surprisingly enough a president of a construction company knows how to mix pour for a slab. Most of the time they only know how to yell and talk on the phone.
Concrete whoooooooo
How to make your own concrete: buy some cement and mix it with sand.
Next video: How to make your own cement.
Fucking mind blown!
Um I’m trying to build a Historical gaggeristic castle....
Its like baking for men.
That was definitely too dry
Not a bad video, just badly titled....should be called "HOW TO MIX CONCRETE".
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