Why I had to cut this entire deck out! I Center Console Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2025
- Hey guys! So I apologize for this video is just me talking, but I thought it was important to point out some of the issues I ran into while trying to repair the front deck area in my Paramount project.
I was originally trying to be as "non-intrusive" as possible so I could glass the original deck section back into place, but after looking at it for a few weeks I realized a "patch" job wasn't going to work.
This video will give some context to the next few videos in this project series.
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Not gonna lie, just hearing the thought process around the plan of attack is extremely useful as we contemplate our own jobs. Very rarely is a job perfectly straight forward with no options to consider.
Not about half assing stuff.That is why I subbed to your channel.Best on TH-cam!.Thanks Russ
Thanks.
I love this channel, it's gonna blow up for sure! None of the cheesy try hard schtick, no fluff and tons of glitz and glamour shit... Just straight up knowledge filled videos.
Thanks man!
Thanks man
I agree with cutting it out if you want to do it right. I started in my boat project and have since completely replaced the transome, stringers, bulkheads and am working on the deck now. Gonna be a new boat by the time I'm done. Even if your gonna sell it I would still fix it right. Make you sleep better at night knowing you did it right. Great videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. Yeah there was no point in cutting corners to save a few dollars plus the finished job will be a lot nicer and more solid.
I have a center console without a molded inner liner. Would it be worth sanding/grinding down the uneven surface in order to try and make a smoother, more finished look or would this be a waste of time? I have done some fiberglass work in the past but not like what I'm talking about. The way I'm thinking is that I could knock down all the higher spots, fill any pits and dings and such then prime, paint and non-skid certain areas.
Flotation foam for support under? Possibly make stringers or bulkheads that will act as walls inside storage boxes/hatches like you said. If you did foam for support then those glass tabs you tried to use would work. Those tabs would have worked better though IMO if you glasses deck in but they were only source of support rather then spreading it out if glassed in all the way to gunnels (maybe). I do see your dilemma though. Probably best to rip it all out but you know as well as I do that’s not going to up the value enough to then justify selling it. Biggest issue is people don’t care that you did repair the right way and it cost x amount of money, they care about looks over quality. That is why Brunswick is still in business. Lol. I think whatever option you decide to go with, the work will get done right and you will be confident that it’s solid. Might wind up having to keep it.
Foam would have worked but my original plan was to use the space under the floor for storage. I was planning to put two full layers of 1708 over the top of the repair and that probably would have worked okay but I’m happy I decided to cut it out.
@@boatcrafterscollective I'm kinda in the same conundrum right now. I have stringers in, and ready to put the deck on. But, I'm not sure how I want to (or how I can) connect the deck to the stringers without having to drill holes into them via screws.
I'd hate to have to open up holes with screws into the brand stringers, even if filling with epoxy to cover my bases. Because I just know how any little weak point can be an entry for moisture. So I'm trying to devise a way to attach the deck without having to actually screw into the stringers. :/
What material are the stringers ?
You don’t have to screw into them regardless. Mix up a large batch of thickened epoxy and put it into a zip lock back to make a “cake batter” bag. Dump a large bead of epoxy on top of the stringers and then set your deck on top. Load the deck up with weights (blocks, gym weights, sand bags etc) to hold the deck down till it cures. No screws needed.
@@boatcrafterscollective On this particular build (my personal boat) I went with Polyester and marine ply for the stringers. Figured since it's not my dream boat, may as well not splurge for an epoxy build on it, hehe.
Do I have to worry about the peanut butter failing/pulling to delam or break free even, when it in really rough water? (I'm on lake erie, so with to 3-5 second wave periods on 4-6's, it beats the living shit out of the boat).
Tell me if this is a bad idea, or if maybe it's overkill:
I waa thinking of putting in tall and wide cleats bonded to the outside of the finished stringers (stringers already closed of and etc) and then glassing over the cleats with wanna schedule I did the stringers, and tabbing them to the stringer and hull. Then, use screws into those instead, and peanut butter bed the deck of course.
My biggest fear is that my peanut butter bond breaks free in areas, or that I end up with delam kinda like you did, and then all my stringers aren't tied together... Or am I just overthinking it, and the deck isn't providing a drastic amount of structural integrity to the overall build to begin with?
(Sorry for all the questions man. I really appreciate the time and effort you put into all this and that you actually respond to your viewers). 🙂
Theres nothing wrong with poly and plywood. Theres not much savings these days between Coosa and Plywood, but foam is probably the most economical stringer material.
I never use Epoxy except for bonding. I use poly for lamination almost 100% of the time. I've never used epoxy for any lamination project. As long as you set the deck into the Thickened Epoxy properly, it won't break. You'll have to cut it out with a chainsaw before is fails. Epoxy is some serious material and you're going to have a lot of it touching the bottom of the deck. I think you are really over thinking it.
I agree cut it all out you will feel better knowing it is all 100 percent new. Versus always thinking 🤔 dam when is the wood in the front going to give up. and then you will get stuck with spider cracks on the deck.
Definitely make the deck hatches on the sides.
Thanks.
This is the same problem I’m having redoing my 17 aquasport