You have no idea how much I appreciate this video! I bought a boat with the exact engine as yours 2010. When I launched it there was no problem, but I never revved above the 3000 rpm to test. Then a few days later when I had time I took the boat out when I was outside the no wake zone I throttled up and BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP...with simultaneous shaking of the engine until it cut off. It restarted right away, then I tried again and when the beeping and rattling started I throttled back and it settled down. So I motored back slowly thinking there was a big problem. When I asked the man I bought it from he said I should change the fuel filter and add fresh gasoline. That night I found your video. The next morning I removed the cowl, started the engine and disconnected the switch. Revved the engine and no beeps or shacking. Then I placed the cowl back on and took it out and...problem solved!. I thank God for this video because there is no telling how many rabbit holes I would have gone down before taking it to a service center to have them keep it for who knows how long.
Thank you for the video. Replacement solved the issue. The switch was a plain on/off switch, not a TPS, and the part number is 889514A01 superseded with 8M0207794 3:35
My engine suddenly shake big time at 2400 rpm under load. Running smooth under 2400 rpm. Put engine on neutral and give more throttle, engine was limited to 3000 rpm (normal condition). Disconnected the neutral switch as said in the video tried under load and engine was just fine. Switch defective, closed at any position replace it and the problem is resolved. Thanks for the information , saved me time and money.
Plugs, two sets of injectors, three years of lost fishing trips. Endless gas analysis. Holy cow. That describes my boat exactly. 115 4 stroke. Purrs like a kitty at the dock. Can't even hear it. Initial hole shot ok until about 3000 then it wants to shut down. Replaced fuel filter, plugs, injectors, gas, gas and more gas. I'm going to the river right now. I'll add results. Thank you. You may have stopped me from virtually giving this damn thing away.
Thank You very much for your video. I had exactly the same issue except mine didn't beep 6x. Tested the switch that you identified and found that it was very slow to respond. Purchased a replacement switch and it reacted fine. Installed the new switch and no more issues. I want to "thank you" for helping me solve this issue. Oh by the way, it was a royal pain to replace that switch. That location is very difficult to get to.
After watching your video on the safety neutral switch on the engine that was exactly what my problem was thanks so much for your videos keep them coming...
It’s amazing I’ve had the same problem with my 2018 115 called the dealer and they just don’t wanna acknowledge that it’s actually happening but your video proves it with all the guys talking about it taking my boat in today going to show him this I actually called Mercury Marine in Wisconsin and they didn’t even wanna admit this problem existed will never buy another mercury motor again!!
Hi Mate, could you please let me know, where is the 'Neutral Safety Switch' on Mercury 115 2018? I have the same issue where the engine didn't go over 3000rpms(shaking), but the dealer said that the ECU need to be replaced. :((
It's not always easy to find intermittent issues and that is a temporary code even with g3 it will show up if happening goes away when not. I had a rental would go out 5 days and would happen once for 2 take offs then not again for a week
I had the same issue, but with Mercury outboard 150 HP fourstroke. I took it to the dealer. They changed a round sensor that is hidden, it's attached to the electric power trim shaft from the upper side. Like if you stand behind the engine it's very clear, you can see it to the left side once you trim the engine up "it's written on it this side out," it's attached with two small bolts, and it's called (Digital Trim Sender.) Along with it, I changed a short shaft that goes horizontally through the upper side of trim arm ring as per their advice. This sensor has a wire that goes into the engine compartment, and it's the only wire that enters the engine from outside, just below the engine cowl to the left. I paid US $88.00 installed, I took it for a test run after this, and my problem was solved.
i am going nuts spent a lot of time 2012 mercury 150hp 4 stroke wh en i go 2800 rpm or faster my motor starts shaking bad runs ok at 2700 read what you did my trim and tilt motor has heavy rust on the top of it.wow that fixed your motor
@@leebradfordjr9574 Myself I wondered what a part that is located totally out of the engine compartment, has to do with my engine jerking, can't go beyond 3000 rpm, and if I force it even it gets lower like 2700rpm or less. BTW the dealer I mentioned is the Sole Agent for Mercury outboards in the UAE, in which means that they are the only authorized dealer in the whole country, they deal with thousands of engines annually, they know exactly what they are talking about, they diagnosed the problem without even looking at my boat, and ordered an electrician worker to change the part. Simply change the part I mentioned above, and your engine will be fine.
I have a Mercury Seapro 115 4 stroke. When I first got it, it would shake and start to cut out after running it fine for an hour or so. Later on it quit shaking and ran like a champ with no problems. Last weekend, after running for over an hour, it began its shaking and acting up like water in fuel or something. BUT, I finally noticed on Vesselview the indicator jumping from F-->N-->F-->R--F etc. flipping back and forth. It sounds as if this switch might be the problem because of the shifting issue combined with a sputtering engine.
So did you fix your problem, and what was it exactly? I have the same running issue you described. I did purchase a VesselView module last weekend, but not taken it back out yet.
Cool! Been having the same issue, hope this might be an easy solution to my problem.. loads of bs out there, hard to find helpful fixes from others with similar issues.. thanks alot man!
I owe you a 30 pack of beer. I corrected my problem when mercury could not. They replace the high-pressure fuel pump $900. Spark plugs $300. New lower water pump for50.
@@bubbieallen795 I do not know, mine's a 2010 EFI 90hp, Not sure how different the newer models are. check www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/parts-and-service/service-and-support/owners-manual for your model
You just saved me we from wasting $800 to have a tech install a new fuel pump. I already spent $500 trying to solve this. I have DF70 Suzuki 70 hp and bet this a common problem on other motors. I'm really into 3D printing and just subscribed to your channel as well.
Your welcome. Hope this fixes it for you. now that you've got $800 left, hop over to patreon and support my printing endeavors www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech ;-)
Hi there, loved this video, so helpful mate! My Mercury Optimax 2006 75hp two stroke goes in guardian mode at 4,000rpm with a solid beep. Other than that, it runs perfectly. Do you think 75hp may have 4,000rpm limit for this Neutral Switch instead of yours at 3,000rpm?
Ok... its not a Neutral safety switch.... its a shift interrupter switch.... what it does is it kills the spark on about half the spark plugs in order to take the load off the clutch in the lower unit ,so you can shift from foward to neutral to reverse etc.. as you know there is no clutch, other wise you would be grinding in and out of gear everytime you shifted.....
Thanks for the explanation, good to know. Call it what you will. If you need replacement you'll need to look for "Neutral Switch" on amazon amzn.to/2Yu4c3g
@@Core3DTech i have done changed everything .saw your video and cant find that switch that your talking about.have mercury 2012 f0ur stroke 150 hp and their is a plate their i have the motor apart sides are off cant find that part can it be located some where else
Hello I think this is TP sensor... I have mercury 115 2 stroke OBM ... they give same problem ...rpm not increase more than 1200... I already change its VST, spark plug but problem is not solve... give me any suggestion
Hello, i have a Mercury EFI 60HP 2009 that started to shake like crazy in a middle of fishing trip. it was'nt possible to go over 2500-3000 RPM because it was shaking to much. According to your description i feel that it might be the same thing. However, when i got my boat out of the water and started the engine 1 hours after the problem started, it was'nt shaking. it's clearly not the prop. i also not got any beeps, and the odor of the motor smelt differently. Is this something similar to what you observed ?? Thank you for the video !!
Sory, I'm not a mechanic. The problem described in this video is consistent, not a one off. Theoretically the Neutral switch could've gotten stuck once but I have no clue. if it does get consistent, diagnosis is pretty easy (do what I did in the video).
Mercury outboard, four stroke, 115 hp motor shaking keep quitting while driving I found the problem. I have spent a fortune on this pontoon and all It was is the vent tube was stopped up stopping my fuel
Hi Gyus, I have Merc 80 2018 with the same symptoms. It could not go over 3000rpms. I bough this engine second hand but only test it out of the water. Today a mechanic came with some diagnostic tool, which said that the engine is locked 'security lock' or something like that. The mechanic claim that the ECU need to be changed. Did someone has simmillar issue. The ECU cost arround 2000$ :((
Yes mate, unfortunately it does not help. The guy from mercury came with a diagnostic tool yesterday, it showing "engine locked". The mechanic claims that he never seen this before and want to change the ECU... :(
I got the same problem I have a 50hp evinrude 2 stroke mine will run fine for alittle bit then it starts not going over 3000rpm then turn key off and start it back up and it's fine runs great then all of a sudden it does it again and then sometimes it don't do it any help would be appreciated thanks
Yet, if you want to get the replacement, you'll the the mercury genuine NEUTRAL switch on amazon. amzn.to/3SDWwTB Boats.net calls it the THROTTLE LINKAGE SWITCH
I hope my solution works for you then. You can replace the switch but it's really hard for me to reach it. Unplugging that cable as I show works just as well for me.
Idk if this video is old enough to get ur response but I have a 25hp efi and I can't get my speed to go passed 7 mph since day one purchased new. Can this be the same issue u had. Idk how to tell what roms my boats at so idk if it's the same issue thanks
I explain in the vid how to determine if this is your issue. if you have neutral switch and the problem goes away if you disconnect it, it's your issue. idk if your engine has a similar switch
I have a similar issue with a YAMAHA F100, I've tried to solve it like this but nothing, in neutral works like a clock, in gear shaking and no passing 3000RPM
First of all, thanks for making this video! Appreciate it! Question: did yours rev good when in neutral, but then is limited to 3k rpm when in gear? Cuz that’s what’s happening to mine.. Also, tps is Throttle Positioning Sensor and not the same as this Neutral Safety Switch, or?
Everything runs fine in both neutral and gear up to 3000RPM. The computer throttles it at that RPM. Check the full video to test. Simply unplugging the neutral connector should confirm.
@@meals24u it seams like I’m have the same issue you have or had. Will not pass 3000 rpms in neutral revs fine in reverse passes gets full RPMs. Only forward no alarms/beeps. Out of water like new seams like under a load
@@GypsyDiy yes sir! I ended up selling the Boat as I did not want any big issues! But I wasn’t too tight on the boat anyway, had some decent investment opportunities and ended up going that route.. wish you best of luck with it!! 🤝
Thanks for the reply I did the cheep stuff 1st I replaced the fuel filter emptied out my gas tank wen I took it out I figured let me put in my truck because 12 gl of gas at $4 buck a gl thanks to the radical left I had no place to put it. So my truck ended up running like shit. So it was the gas for sure Lol thank god all is good. Happy Easter 🐇🐰🐣🙏🏾
Hey bud I hope this message gets to you my 2012 Mercury optmax 115 goes 3000rpm long beep and stays there if I give Less throttle the beeping stops only at 3000rpm
when i turned key on i got 6 beeps what next i cleaned injectors put new injector pumpnew plugs pulled gas tank got rid of gas got new gas changed all fuel hoses need help put new filters and water seperator
Thanks for the video. I bought a new sensor, I didn't take the old one out, too hard to get to. So I just connected the new one and pressed the grey button all the way to test it. Didn't change anything. Still self-retards at 3k RPM. I should've tried your test, to unplug it and try. I will next time. Question though: What goes wrong on the old switch? How does it break? And why won't my new one not work? Does it absolutely have to be mounted to work?
not sure what goes wrong with it. Haven't been able to get to mine to see. I suspect the plastic knob jus wore off (I do switch from forward to reverse a lot, turning around in my canal).
Hi there. First sorry for My English, i'm from argentina. So, My 90hp 4s 2007. Out of the water, the engine start be fine. But past 30 mins. this does not start anymore. Do you have some idea? Thanks.
You're English is great. I honestly couldn't tell you. There could be many things wrong. Does it not start at all or do you have to wait a while and it will start again? Does it do this repeatedly/consistently? If you run the engine without the cowl (The big hood on the engine) does it run or run longer than 30 minutes?
Hey Core3D_Tech, is your engine a two stroke or 4 stroke? I am having the same issue with a 200hp mercury two stroke saltwater except the buzzer is constant and once I put the engine in neutral, it goes away.
@@albertocoatl591 i have same exact problem on my 115 2 stroke saltwater, constant alarm and goes away in neutral, did you find out the cause of the problem?
If this engine you bought suffers the same issue, you'll need to either replace the switch (hard to reach but doable), or leave it unplugged. Leaving it unplugged does expose you to accidentally starting while in gear.
@@longvu925 It should start just fine but it might be possible to start it while it is in gear (not neutral). Starting it while in gear (reverse or forward) is not a good thing. Make sure you're throttle is in neutral when starting the engine
My boat has one more problem , can you help to let me know why : for the first 3 to 5 minutes my boat running very slow and after that it running fast , it is happen every times when I start running the boat
My 2017 4 stroke 50 worked fine all morning then I had all these shaking and alarms and had to limp back in 15 miles at 2200 RPS I hope the TP switch is the fault
This error is very consistent. On the EFI 90 it's exactly 3000RPM every time (hot or cold). If it doesn't consistently go wrong every time at the same RPM it's probably something different
Thank you I haven't tested on my boat yet but last year I have the same problem and a boat mechanic charge me 1,200 bucks and he didn't tell me what he did with my boat but it was fix this year I have the same problem again take it back to the same mechanic and he didn't know what was going on and he was telling me about goose chase talking about my fuel pump leak gasket computer problem and he wants to charge me $6000 to fix it
Can't figure mine out I have a2002 mercury 115 four stroke it was stalling when putting it in gear took it to a mercury dealer they put a new IAC valve in it . And new plugs and wires it doesn't stall no more but my boat would run 38 mph all day .now it will only run 29 or 30 at 5200 rpm before it would turn 5800 rpms am lost
Hi there! I have also a similar problem with my mercury efi 4 stroke 50KM 2006 year. Suddenly while I am driving the boat the engine starts to choking and finally its turn off the engine. Last days I re-changed oils and filters just becouse I have to. I thought it gonna help but i doesnt. I got check engine and TPS sensor Fault in the computer. What do you think about that? Should I check this connector also and try to disconect this one? Any suggestions? Greetings from Poland and I wish you good day. PS: I can make RPM'S easy from 800 to 5,5K easly. Its happens even when I put earplugs in my garden. Engine runs for few minutes. I put on the idle, then foward geard up to 3,5k and it starts to choking
hey, all you have to do is to check tps sensor voltage on idle throttle and full wide open throttle. Put needles into the wires and check the voltage, you adjust with screws on tps sensor, I cant remember how many on idle and how many on WOT... ask someone about the voltage. Now it works perfect. @@felixmikkialmosttoasted3911
hello, we have a 2004 Mercury 115 hp 4 stroke and the last time we wanted to use it and it did not take off, it started without problems, (shakes a little bit), we took it to the service and it stayed the same, you do not know what problem it will be ?, someone says is that the computer that costs $ 3000. Thank you.
Sorry, I'm just a mercury owner, not a technician. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong with mine and how to fix it. This year I seem to have a new set of problems I haven't identified/fixed yet.
I have the exact motor , 2010 model . Mine ran consistently at 5200 rpm but now it holds at 4800 to 5000 . Any idea what would cause this ? I found my airfilter was really desinergrating so ordered a new one but no idea if that would cause it ? By the way , air filter on e bay is 80.oo , mercury dealer wanted over 200.00 plus shipping ????
but disconnected it works fine? This sounds like whatever "lever' is supposed to trigger the switch doesn't reach it. Triggering/releasing the switch is identical to connecting/disconnecting the plug
The location is extremely inconvenient. If (and that's a big if) you can get your arm and tool under there, you loose all vision so you have probably go by touch. I had a mercury mechanic over the other they and I told him "I disconnected it, because replacing it seemed too hard). He replied "Tell me about it". I do have the issue, my boat is always in the water. This may be easier if it's on land. You can certainly buy the replacement part: amzn.to/2GXvgvr
They are correct (at 1:38 I say "the motor thinks it's in neutral", which really means the computer registers the motor in neutral). The computer is programmed to not rev above 3000RPM when in neutral. Because of the broken neutral switch the computer never get the signal it went into in gear. The problem with my engine (can't speak for yours but you can easily test it) was "fixed" by disconnecting the neutral switch. It's more of a hack than a fix as now the computer "thinks" it's in gear all the time. The real fix would be to replace the neutral switch (just can't reach it).
Morality Sheriff well it broke down again after putting s loaner computer until my new one comes from the factory. So maybe they will listen to me now when I ask them to check the switch. They took computer out put old one in and it ran but wouldn’t go past 3000 then put loamer back in and it ran and wanted to let me take the boat and I said no I want you to figure out why this is happening because I’m tired of bringing it back over and over again. I have almost 3 years left on the warranty and I’ll bring it in every day if they can’t fix it. They need to just give me a new motor and send the one back to mercury.
@@MatanuskaHIGH I'm sorry to hear that. The test to this, is as easy as seen in this video. You don't need a single tool to try this. Simply remove the cowling (the big hood on top of the motor) and disconnect the switch I show in the video. Take it out for a spin. One of two things can happen: 1. the engine runs great past 3000 and you'll look like a genius to your engineer (or you exposed him for milking the Mercury company for repairs) 2. it still breaks down after 3000rpm and you simply put the switch back on, put the cowling back on and let the engineers take it from there.
If im not mistaken I think that is where your should be. 200-300 rpm with trim puts you at 5200 rpm. I would just ask you local dealer with your prop number.
John strand. Did you find out what the problem is. I just purchased a 2019 mercury 60hp 4 days ago and does not rev over 4900k. Motor should be turning at 5500k to 6000k
@@ethansisolak5817 ethan sisolak Nope. Five trips back to the dealer, Anglers Choice of Lexington, NC and I still have the same problem. The last time, they put a lower pitch prop on the POS just to get it to plane off but my top end is still only mid thirties where as originally, it would hit 43mph. Mercury Marine has been useless as tits on a steer also. I would advise people to steer clear of this brand.
@@Core3DTech thank you I agree. Interesting enough I had basically the same engine symptoms.... Turn ignition on, shortly after the self check beep I would get six beeps. Engine ran fine in idle all the way to 3500 rpm, but them would loose power..... Just posting this here because it may help some else out there. Thanks for all the info!
Sure but generally, not this consistently. exactly 3000RPM is enforced by the computer when it thinks it's in neutral. Fuel can definitely be an issue but it wouldn't be as dead on the 3000 mark. I did have another problem this year where I lost power after a while (around 5 minutes). This turned out to be a floater switch issue inside the FSM. It would always happen but not dependent on RPM (more based on temperature).
There's an easy solution that basically will proactively prevent all outboard problems. Its a 2 step process, can seem complicated, bit is in fact, quite simple. Here is the list: 1. Don't buy mercury 2. Enjoy
You have no idea how much I appreciate this video! I bought a boat with the exact engine as yours 2010. When I launched it there was no problem, but I never revved above the 3000 rpm to test. Then a few days later when I had time I took the boat out when I was outside the no wake zone I throttled up and BEEP, BEEP, BEEP, BEEP...with simultaneous shaking of the engine until it cut off. It restarted right away, then I tried again and when the beeping and rattling started I throttled back and it settled down. So I motored back slowly thinking there was a big problem. When I asked the man I bought it from he said I should change the fuel filter and add fresh gasoline. That night I found your video. The next morning I removed the cowl, started the engine and disconnected the switch. Revved the engine and no beeps or shacking. Then I placed the cowl back on and took it out and...problem solved!. I thank God for this video because there is no telling how many rabbit holes I would have gone down before taking it to a service center to have them keep it for who knows how long.
I went through a few rabbit holes before I figured it out. Glad to have been of help. Enjoy the rest of boating season!!
Thank you for the video. Replacement solved the issue. The switch was a plain on/off switch, not a TPS, and the part number is 889514A01 superseded with 8M0207794
3:35
How do you replace this part? Having exact same issue.
@@charlesadams4471 curious about the same thing
My engine suddenly shake big time at 2400 rpm under load. Running smooth under 2400 rpm. Put engine on neutral and give more throttle, engine was limited to 3000 rpm (normal condition). Disconnected the neutral switch as said in the video tried under load and engine was just fine. Switch defective, closed at any position replace it and the problem is resolved. Thanks for the information , saved me time and money.
Plugs, two sets of injectors, three years of lost fishing trips. Endless gas analysis. Holy cow. That describes my boat exactly. 115 4 stroke. Purrs like a kitty at the dock. Can't even hear it. Initial hole shot ok until about 3000 then it wants to shut down. Replaced fuel filter, plugs, injectors, gas, gas and more gas. I'm going to the river right now. I'll add results. Thank you. You may have stopped me from virtually giving this damn thing away.
Thank You very much for your video. I had exactly the same issue except mine didn't beep 6x. Tested the switch that you identified and found that it was very slow to respond. Purchased a replacement switch and it reacted fine. Installed the new switch and no more issues. I want to "thank you" for helping me solve this issue.
Oh by the way, it was a royal pain to replace that switch. That location is very difficult to get to.
Glad it worked out. Hope you didn't spend too much on other replacement parts before finding this (I did).
@@Core3DTech thanks to you i did not! Thanks again
I got same problem but doesn’t beep either.. Mine revs fine, just doesn’t make power and go past 3k rpm when I’m in gear ..
@@meals24udid you e eat get yours running correctly
After watching your video on the safety neutral switch on the engine that was exactly what my problem was thanks so much for your videos keep them coming...
tks SOOOOOOO much for this. You have no idea how long i've been trying to diagnose the same problem
Omg , still saving people like me years after. Thank you so much for sharing.
It’s amazing I’ve had the same problem with my 2018 115 called the dealer and they just don’t wanna acknowledge that it’s actually happening but your video proves it with all the guys talking about it taking my boat in today going to show him this I actually called Mercury Marine in Wisconsin and they didn’t even wanna admit this problem existed will never buy another mercury motor again!!
Hi Mate, could you please let me know, where is the 'Neutral Safety Switch' on Mercury 115 2018? I have the same issue where the engine didn't go over 3000rpms(shaking), but the dealer said that the ECU need to be replaced. :((
@@hudaitaly My dealer just told me three days ago there is no neutral safety switch on the engine but it’s in the throttle handle or ignition
It's not always easy to find intermittent issues and that is a temporary code even with g3 it will show up if happening goes away when not. I had a rental would go out 5 days and would happen once for 2 take offs then not again for a week
I had the same issue, but with Mercury outboard 150 HP fourstroke. I took it to the dealer. They changed a round sensor that is hidden, it's attached to the electric power trim shaft from the upper side. Like if you stand behind the engine it's very clear, you can see it to the left side once you trim the engine up "it's written on it this side out," it's attached with two small bolts, and it's called (Digital Trim Sender.) Along with it, I changed a short shaft that goes horizontally through the upper side of trim arm ring as per their advice. This sensor has a wire that goes into the engine compartment, and it's the only wire that enters the engine from outside, just below the engine cowl to the left. I paid US $88.00 installed, I took it for a test run after this, and my problem was solved.
i am going nuts spent a lot of time 2012 mercury 150hp 4 stroke wh en i go 2800 rpm or faster my motor starts shaking bad runs ok at 2700 read what you did my trim and tilt motor has heavy rust on the top of it.wow that fixed your motor
@@leebradfordjr9574 Myself I wondered what a part that is located totally out of the engine compartment, has to do with my engine jerking, can't go beyond 3000 rpm, and if I force it even it gets lower like 2700rpm or less. BTW the dealer I mentioned is the Sole Agent for Mercury outboards in the UAE, in which means that they are the only authorized dealer in the whole country, they deal with thousands of engines annually, they know exactly what they are talking about, they diagnosed the problem without even looking at my boat, and ordered an electrician worker to change the part. Simply change the part I mentioned above, and your engine will be fine.
@@abdulalameeri1578 well part came today i changed it and it didnt help dont know wear to go from hear
@@leebradfordjr9574 Drop by Mercury dealer, ask them for diagnose, and estimate price.
Thank you so much. My headache was instantly lifted
I have a Mercury Seapro 115 4 stroke. When I first got it, it would shake and start to cut out after running it fine for an hour or so. Later on it quit shaking and ran like a champ with no problems. Last weekend, after running for over an hour, it began its shaking and acting up like water in fuel or something. BUT, I finally noticed on Vesselview the indicator jumping from F-->N-->F-->R--F etc. flipping back and forth. It sounds as if this switch might be the problem because of the shifting issue combined with a sputtering engine.
So did you fix your problem, and what was it exactly? I have the same running issue you described. I did purchase a VesselView module last weekend, but not taken it back out yet.
I was having the same issue with my Merc. Turned out to be the kill switch in the tiller handle. Just disconnect them and see if it changes anything.
Thank you Core3D_Tech! Solved my neighbors issue on their 2012 115.
Thanks for the info, my verado is bucking and surging and tries to throw me out of the boat! I'm going to try this ,and get a new switch if necessary
Cool! Been having the same issue, hope this might be an easy solution to my problem.. loads of bs out there, hard to find helpful fixes from others with similar issues.. thanks alot man!
Plot twist: The neutral safety switch is designed to limit the RPM’s while in neutral.
Would mercury vessel view show proper fault code makeing it easy to trouble shoot?
Thanks a lot. I knew this problem was just a sensor somewhere.
Voltage loss issues tend to be overlooked most often with outboards and often times are the culprit.
as a guy who fixes these pieces of shit for a living: nope, that is extremely rare
@@The.Norwegian lol
I owe you a 30 pack of beer. I corrected my problem when mercury could not. They replace the high-pressure fuel pump $900. Spark plugs $300. New lower water pump for50.
Glad it worked out. it sucks you had to spend that money. instead of beer, a subscribe will suffice ;-)
@@Core3DTech
What year motor was your 90
@@bubbieallen795 2010
@@Core3DTechI have 2012 model I don’t see that switch at all, would mine be in the shift on console
@@bubbieallen795 I do not know, mine's a 2010 EFI 90hp, Not sure how different the newer models are. check www.mercurymarine.com/us/en/parts-and-service/service-and-support/owners-manual for your model
You just saved me we from wasting $800 to have a tech install a new fuel pump. I already spent $500 trying to solve this. I have DF70 Suzuki 70 hp and bet this a common problem on other motors. I'm really into 3D printing and just subscribed to your channel as well.
Your welcome. Hope this fixes it for you. now that you've got $800 left, hop over to patreon and support my printing endeavors www.patreon.com/Core3d_tech ;-)
i have a df90a with the same issue. is the switch in the same area on a suzuki as it is on the merc?
Oh ya!! This is what was wrong with my 2012 115 HP 4 stroke. PITA to get to those screws, but seems to be working again. Thanks for sharing!!
Glad it worked out. I just left mine disconnected. I had a mechanic over the other day and he agreed; PITA
Hi there, loved this video, so helpful mate! My Mercury Optimax 2006 75hp two stroke goes in guardian mode at 4,000rpm with a solid beep. Other than that, it runs perfectly. Do you think 75hp may have 4,000rpm limit for this Neutral Switch instead of yours at 3,000rpm?
I don’t know but simply try the unplugging as seen in the vid and you’ll know
Ok... its not a Neutral safety switch.... its a shift interrupter switch.... what it does is it kills the spark on about half the spark plugs in order to take the load off the clutch in the lower unit ,so you can shift from foward to neutral to reverse etc.. as you know there is no clutch, other wise you would be grinding in and out of gear everytime you shifted.....
Thanks for the explanation, good to know. Call it what you will. If you need replacement you'll need to look for "Neutral Switch" on amazon amzn.to/2Yu4c3g
Half the plugs probably also explains why it won't go past half the RPM?
@@Core3DTech i have done changed everything .saw your video and cant find that switch that your talking about.have mercury 2012 f0ur stroke 150 hp and their is a plate their i have the motor apart sides are off cant find that part can it be located some where else
Excellent stuff, thank you.
Hello I think this is TP sensor... I have mercury 115 2 stroke OBM ... they give same problem ...rpm not increase more than 1200... I already change its VST, spark plug but problem is not solve... give me any suggestion
Prakash Khadse it was the neutral switch. I explain in the video. Replacing it or bypassing it fixes the issue
Hello, i have a Mercury EFI 60HP 2009 that started to shake like crazy in a middle of fishing trip. it was'nt possible to go over 2500-3000 RPM because it was shaking to much. According to your description i feel that it might be the same thing. However, when i got my boat out of the water and started the engine 1 hours after the problem started, it was'nt shaking. it's clearly not the prop.
i also not got any beeps, and the odor of the motor smelt differently.
Is this something similar to what you observed ??
Thank you for the video !!
Sory, I'm not a mechanic. The problem described in this video is consistent, not a one off. Theoretically the Neutral switch could've gotten stuck once but I have no clue. if it does get consistent, diagnosis is pretty easy (do what I did in the video).
Mercury outboard, four stroke, 115 hp motor shaking keep quitting while driving I found the problem. I have spent a fortune on this pontoon and all It was is the vent tube was stopped up stopping my fuel
11:03 Have you replaced the TPS switch and was it in fact defective?
@
Core3D_Tech Cant find that plug geez , have a mercury 2014 60 hp 4 stroke
Hi Gyus, I have Merc 80 2018 with the same symptoms. It could not go over 3000rpms. I bough this engine second hand but only test it out of the water. Today a mechanic came with some diagnostic tool, which said that the engine is locked 'security lock' or something like that. The mechanic claim that the ECU need to be changed. Did someone has simmillar issue. The ECU cost arround 2000$ :((
have you tried what I did in this video (if it still applies to a 2018)?
Yes mate, unfortunately it does not help. The guy from mercury came with a diagnostic tool yesterday, it showing "engine locked". The mechanic claims that he never seen this before and want to change the ECU... :(
I got the same problem I have a 50hp evinrude 2 stroke mine will run fine for alittle bit then it starts not going over 3000rpm then turn key off and start it back up and it's fine runs great then all of a sudden it does it again and then sometimes it don't do it any help would be appreciated thanks
The evenrudes have an issue with the exhaust V tech I guess there is a recall on a rubber grommet that is installed in the wrong spot
It's not a natural safety switch It's shift interupter johnson and evinrude also have them
Yet, if you want to get the replacement, you'll the the mercury genuine NEUTRAL switch on amazon. amzn.to/3SDWwTB Boats.net calls it the THROTTLE LINKAGE SWITCH
And not to mention it idles real low now shaking and when I put it in neutral I hear a little wine
Im having Same issue on A 2008 Whaler equipped with a merc 2008 efi hp90
I hope my solution works for you then. You can replace the switch but it's really hard for me to reach it. Unplugging that cable as I show works just as well for me.
@@Core3DTech well i did disconnect the switch and wallla problem went away it revs up to the highest rpm 🤠thanks for the tip
Idk if this video is old enough to get ur response but I have a 25hp efi and I can't get my speed to go passed 7 mph since day one purchased new. Can this be the same issue u had. Idk how to tell what roms my boats at so idk if it's the same issue thanks
I explain in the vid how to determine if this is your issue. if you have neutral switch and the problem goes away if you disconnect it, it's your issue. idk if your engine has a similar switch
I have a similar issue with a YAMAHA F100, I've tried to solve it like this but nothing, in neutral works like a clock, in gear shaking and no passing 3000RPM
First of all, thanks for making this video! Appreciate it!
Question: did yours rev good when in neutral, but then is limited to 3k rpm when in gear? Cuz that’s what’s happening to mine..
Also, tps is Throttle Positioning Sensor and not the same as this Neutral Safety Switch, or?
Everything runs fine in both neutral and gear up to 3000RPM. The computer throttles it at that RPM. Check the full video to test. Simply unplugging the neutral connector should confirm.
Core3D_Tech okay thank you!! 🙏
@@meals24u it seams like I’m have the same issue you have or had. Will not pass 3000 rpms in neutral revs fine in reverse passes gets full RPMs. Only forward no alarms/beeps. Out of water like new seams like under a load
@@GypsyDiy yes sir! I ended up selling the Boat as I did not want any big issues!
But I wasn’t too tight on the boat anyway, had some decent investment opportunities and ended up going that route..
wish you best of luck with it!! 🤝
Thanks for the reply I did the cheep stuff 1st I replaced the fuel filter emptied out my gas tank wen I took it out I figured let me put in my truck because 12 gl of gas at $4 buck a gl thanks to the radical left I had no place to put it. So my truck ended up running like shit. So it was the gas for sure Lol thank god all is good. Happy Easter 🐇🐰🐣🙏🏾
Hey bud I hope this message gets to you my 2012 Mercury optmax 115 goes 3000rpm long beep and stays there if I give Less throttle the beeping stops only at 3000rpm
when i turned key on i got 6 beeps what next i cleaned injectors put new injector pumpnew plugs pulled gas tank got rid of gas got new gas changed all fuel hoses need help put new filters and water seperator
i change 2 sensor neutral safety switch, i changed the trim sensor. i still cant go 3000 rpms what next
what is the engine model? :)
Thanks buddy, mine is fixed due to your video!
Thanks for the video. I bought a new sensor, I didn't take the old one out, too hard to get to. So I just connected the new one and pressed the grey button all the way to test it. Didn't change anything. Still self-retards at 3k RPM. I should've tried your test, to unplug it and try. I will next time. Question though: What goes wrong on the old switch? How does it break? And why won't my new one not work? Does it absolutely have to be mounted to work?
not sure what goes wrong with it. Haven't been able to get to mine to see. I suspect the plastic knob jus wore off (I do switch from forward to reverse a lot, turning around in my canal).
Hi there. First sorry for My English, i'm from argentina. So, My 90hp 4s 2007. Out of the water, the engine start be fine. But past 30 mins. this does not start anymore. Do you have some idea? Thanks.
You're English is great. I honestly couldn't tell you. There could be many things wrong. Does it not start at all or do you have to wait a while and it will start again? Does it do this repeatedly/consistently? If you run the engine without the cowl (The big hood on the engine) does it run or run longer than 30 minutes?
Same thing going on with my merc sport jet 175 won't go past 3k rpm out of 6k rpm
Twin-Nick easy to test if it’s the same problem. Watch the vid for the “fix”. No tools required
Hey Core3D_Tech, is your engine a two stroke or 4 stroke? I am having the same issue with a 200hp mercury two stroke saltwater except the buzzer is constant and once I put the engine in neutral, it goes away.
Alberto Coatl mine is a 4 stroke and it’s definitely the “computer” throttling down at 3000rpm. Under that it ran just fine.
@@Core3DTech Hey core_3D, Should I take it to the dealer and let them plug the computer on to see what it says?
@@albertocoatl591 i have same exact problem on my 115 2 stroke saltwater, constant alarm and goes away in neutral, did you find out the cause of the problem?
When I bought the used boat . I saw it unplugged. So do i need plugs it back or let it be . Thank you
If this engine you bought suffers the same issue, you'll need to either replace the switch (hard to reach but doable), or leave it unplugged. Leaving it unplugged does expose you to accidentally starting while in gear.
@@Core3DTech you mean the engine can not start when it unplugged
@@longvu925 It should start just fine but it might be possible to start it while it is in gear (not neutral). Starting it while in gear (reverse or forward) is not a good thing. Make sure you're throttle is in neutral when starting the engine
@@Core3DTech thank you
My boat has one more problem , can you help to let me know why : for the first 3 to 5 minutes my boat running very slow and after that it running fast , it is happen every times when I start running the boat
If it has a red stator in it even if its charging change it that was my problem
My 2017 4 stroke 50 worked fine all morning then I had all these shaking and alarms and had to limp back in 15 miles at 2200 RPS I hope the TP switch is the fault
This error is very consistent. On the EFI 90 it's exactly 3000RPM every time (hot or cold). If it doesn't consistently go wrong every time at the same RPM it's probably something different
Thank you I haven't tested on my boat yet but last year I have the same problem and a boat mechanic charge me 1,200 bucks and he didn't tell me what he did with my boat but it was fix this year I have the same problem again take it back to the same mechanic and he didn't know what was going on and he was telling me about goose chase talking about my fuel pump leak gasket computer problem and he wants to charge me $6000 to fix it
Can't figure mine out I have a2002 mercury 115 four stroke it was stalling when putting it in gear took it to a mercury dealer they put a new IAC valve in it . And new plugs and wires it doesn't stall no more but my boat would run 38 mph all day .now it will only run 29 or 30 at 5200 rpm before it would turn 5800 rpms am lost
Did u figure this out ?
@@felixmikkialmosttoasted3911 no never figure it out sold the boat got me another one
@@christhorbelch3589 i am thinking mine is the neutral switch
Hi there! I have also a similar problem with my mercury efi 4 stroke 50KM 2006 year. Suddenly while I am driving the boat the engine starts to choking and finally its turn off the engine. Last days I re-changed oils and filters just becouse I have to. I thought it gonna help but i doesnt. I got check engine and TPS sensor Fault in the computer. What do you think about that? Should I check this connector also and try to disconect this one? Any suggestions? Greetings from Poland and I wish you good day. PS: I can make RPM'S easy from 800 to 5,5K easly. Its happens even when I put earplugs in my garden. Engine runs for few minutes. I put on the idle, then foward geard up to 3,5k and it starts to choking
Hi did you connect to a OBD port? Did it give you the codes
@@kierancasey5814 hey I just fixed that!! I had to re-correct TPS sensor unit. I had wrong voltage. Now it works fine!! thanks!
@@cezarycezary4180so what did you actually do ?
hey, all you have to do is to check tps sensor voltage on idle throttle and full wide open throttle. Put needles into the wires and check the voltage, you adjust with screws on tps sensor, I cant remember how many on idle and how many on WOT... ask someone about the voltage. Now it works perfect. @@felixmikkialmosttoasted3911
i have this problem on my 15 hp 4 stoke Mercury But not 6 beeps just one long one does anyone know what this is and how to solve it
My mercury 70hp fourstroke not getting speed issues any one pls advise me how can i solve the problems
Sir we have same problem I have 30hp verado and not going obve 3500 rpm what can ido
try to do what I did in the video
@@Core3DTech Sir can you send me your Gmail please
@@Core3DTech Sir sorry 300hp verado
What year and model motor is this?
2010 efi 90hp
I changed mine and it works in gear but still beeps in neutral when I reved it to 3000 rpm. Is that normal ?
Yes, that is exactly what that feature is intended for. When in neutral is should NOT go beyond 3000 rpm (i believe it's not good for the engine)
@@Core3DTech thank you for the response.
Your not supposed to rev motor in neutral puts it in gaurdin
hello, we have a 2004 Mercury 115 hp 4 stroke and the last time we wanted to use it and it did not take off, it started without problems, (shakes a little bit), we took it to the service and it stayed the same, you do not know what problem it will be ?, someone says is that the computer that costs $ 3000. Thank you.
Sorry, I'm just a mercury owner, not a technician. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong with mine and how to fix it. This year I seem to have a new set of problems I haven't identified/fixed yet.
@@Core3DTech ok, thank you.
I have the exact motor , 2010 model . Mine ran consistently at 5200 rpm but now it holds at 4800 to 5000 . Any idea what would cause this ? I found my airfilter was really desinergrating so ordered a new one but no idea if that would cause it ? By the way , air filter on e bay is 80.oo , mercury dealer wanted over 200.00 plus shipping ????
Great info and video Thanks
i tryed checking the coils they are good got shocked wow
EFI or DFI?
EFI
Well I change the switch with a new one it does it still might just leave it disconnected .Maybe do further trouble shooting
but disconnected it works fine? This sounds like whatever "lever' is supposed to trigger the switch doesn't reach it. Triggering/releasing the switch is identical to connecting/disconnecting the plug
Thank you
How hard would it be to replace yourself?
The location is extremely inconvenient. If (and that's a big if) you can get your arm and tool under there, you loose all vision so you have probably go by touch. I had a mercury mechanic over the other they and I told him "I disconnected it, because replacing it seemed too hard). He replied "Tell me about it". I do have the issue, my boat is always in the water. This may be easier if it's on land. You can certainly buy the replacement part: amzn.to/2GXvgvr
I this same issue. mines were @ 4000 rpm.
Had this issue on my 150 four stroke and brought it in and they say it’s the computer. Mine just beeped once at 3000 rpm and throttled down.
They are correct (at 1:38 I say "the motor thinks it's in neutral", which really means the computer registers the motor in neutral). The computer is programmed to not rev above 3000RPM when in neutral. Because of the broken neutral switch the computer never get the signal it went into in gear. The problem with my engine (can't speak for yours but you can easily test it) was "fixed" by disconnecting the neutral switch. It's more of a hack than a fix as now the computer "thinks" it's in gear all the time. The real fix would be to replace the neutral switch (just can't reach it).
Core3D_Tech under warranty they are replacing the computer but I’ll ask about the neutral switch
@@MatanuskaHIGH if the switch is bad how is replacing the computer going to help?
Morality Sheriff well it broke down again after putting s loaner computer until my new one comes from the factory. So maybe they will listen to me now when I ask them to check the switch. They took computer out put old one in and it ran but wouldn’t go past 3000 then put loamer back in and it ran and wanted to let me take the boat and I said no I want you to figure out why this is happening because I’m tired of bringing it back over and over again. I have almost 3 years left on the warranty and I’ll bring it in every day if they can’t fix it. They need to just give me a new motor and send the one back to mercury.
@@MatanuskaHIGH I'm sorry to hear that. The test to this, is as easy as seen in this video. You don't need a single tool to try this. Simply remove the cowling (the big hood on top of the motor) and disconnect the switch I show in the video. Take it out for a spin. One of two things can happen:
1. the engine runs great past 3000 and you'll look like a genius to your engineer (or you exposed him for milking the Mercury company for repairs)
2. it still breaks down after 3000rpm and you simply put the switch back on, put the cowling back on and let the engineers take it from there.
Low oil
I have a similar problem with a brand new 2019 mercury 75HP. Will not rev past 4900 hundred rpms.
Then I hope my solution works for you as it did for me.
If im not mistaken I think that is where your should be. 200-300 rpm with trim puts you at 5200 rpm. I would just ask you local dealer with your prop number.
@@GCHG2014 Well, just a few weeks ago this motor had no problem hitting 5500 rpms without porpoising. Now it has lost 5mph and about 600 rpms.
John strand. Did you find out what the problem is. I just purchased a 2019 mercury 60hp 4 days ago and does not rev over 4900k. Motor should be turning at 5500k to 6000k
@@ethansisolak5817 ethan sisolak Nope. Five trips back to the dealer, Anglers Choice of Lexington, NC and I still have the same problem. The last time, they put a lower pitch prop on the POS just to get it to plane off but my top end is still only mid thirties where as originally, it would hit 43mph.
Mercury Marine has been useless as tits on a steer also. I would advise people to steer clear of this brand.
Happened with my Suzuki we blew a gasket haha
I had the same problem, but it was stuck at 4000 rpm, change fuel injectors , problem solved
Martin Konig not the same problem as this one was caused by idler switch and not fuel injectors
@@Core3DTech thank you I agree. Interesting enough I had basically the same engine symptoms.... Turn ignition on, shortly after the self check beep I would get six beeps. Engine ran fine in idle all the way to 3500 rpm, but them would loose power..... Just posting this here because it may help some else out there. Thanks for all the info!
junk mercury and tracker -can you tell we have one or 2?
Low oil it's a safty
Low oil might trigger some safety but, if you watch the entire video you'll see low oil was not the problem here.
Thx bro
Nice I'm gonna try this
Thank youuuuuuuuu
Thank you for your video very helpful
Thank you this solved our problem.
I understand that you done your problem your way... But could a similar scenario with the 3k rpm be a fuel problem?
Sure but generally, not this consistently. exactly 3000RPM is enforced by the computer when it thinks it's in neutral. Fuel can definitely be an issue but it wouldn't be as dead on the 3000 mark. I did have another problem this year where I lost power after a while (around 5 minutes). This turned out to be a floater switch issue inside the FSM. It would always happen but not dependent on RPM (more based on temperature).
Fuel pump
Junk.
There's an easy solution that basically will proactively prevent all outboard problems. Its a 2 step process, can seem complicated, bit is in fact, quite simple. Here is the list:
1. Don't buy mercury
2. Enjoy
Funny. This was a batch Merc bought from another manufacturer, I forget who. When it runs it's a dream. This issue has been killing me.
More electrical parts garbage
'
Don’t buy mercury motor they suck..👎👎...
i wish i saw this first now i have a merc have to deal with it like Biden sucks