So far you are the best teacher on Carbide create bar none ! You take the time to to show every move and what you are clicking 0n to get where you want to go ! Good Job - Thank you so much.
Awesome looking project. Thanks for all that in dept explanations you give when you do the projects. Could you make a video about how to minimize the hair fuzzys that pop out when using bits, especially with soft woods. I get alot of them when I use vbits.
I appreciate it Josh! I used black acrylic paint. Nothing special. And yes, I painted my board white, burnt it, sealed with poly, then stained with dark walnut. I did not seal after due to time constraints but it actually came out pretty good without sealing after painting the vcarved text black.
@@aetimberpine thanks i think that helped me solve an issue i just ran into cutting a pject that i stained pecan and carvred lettrs into that frayed so bad i coulnt get rid of them without scratching my stained top. nice design thanks for sharing and the reply
@@bubba6945 if you’re pocketing try a Downcut bit. I didn’t have one for a long time so I used the advanced vcarve and the vbit would clean up the fraying nicely. Sometimes I skip that step because it adds extra time thoug….living on the edge! Thanks for checking out the video!
Thank you for the suggestion. I’ve been thinking about this for a while and while It would get me good fitting font into the pocket, I would have to surface the plug and that would get it flat letters rather than raised text. Unless I’m missing something, this may not work.
Hi John, I looked up MDO and it’s not the same. I think it’s just MDF with a thin layer of some hardwood. I got it from a cabinet shot that was tossing some cut offs. 😀
You were using a sealer with a sponge brush, what kind of sealer is that? Also, the polyurethane that you brushed the frame with, was that just a clear poly? I really enjoy your videos but if you could be more specific with the actual sealers and stains that you use, that would help us beginners out tremendously! Thank you for your videos!
Yes that’s a polyurethane. I leave those vague because there are different brands and poly sheens but this is good feedback and can give details of the stains and sealers.
Just tried torching the pine after I painted it and it completely warped. It's not longer usable. Any tips on how I can stop wasting my time on what I see ?
That can happen with pine. Especially if you torch and let it sit for days after torching. If it’s really bad start again. If it’s slightly warped, nail it down to the wasteboard and carve out the plate. I’d try it and see what I get. Work through it. It’s not easy or perfect every single time.
Working from top down The two vertical pieces have a 90 degree top and a 22.5 degree angle on the bottom. The two bottom pieces that meet at a point are the following: Top angle is 22.5 deg and that meets with the 22.5 deg angle from the vertical pieces. The bottom angle is 45 deg and that will give you the point. If you’re a visual person like me, try on your phone. Pause the video and give it a zoom. Should be able to see it that way. But either way hope this clarifies the angles.
So far you are the best teacher on Carbide create bar none ! You take the time to to show every move and what you are clicking 0n to get where you want to go ! Good Job - Thank you so much.
Thank you spud I appreciate it!
Awesome looking project. Thanks for all that in dept explanations you give when you do the projects. Could you make a video about how to minimize the hair fuzzys that pop out when using bits, especially with soft woods. I get alot of them when I use vbits.
Thank you for checking out the video.
Great suggestion! I’ll try and put some comparisons together to address this.
Very cool, your videos have been a big help getting started with my S5.
Thank you Justin for checking it out!
Glad they can get you started!
This is the best tutorial I have seen in a while, what paint did you use to paint just the bottom vcarve? Also did you stain after poly?
I appreciate it Josh!
I used black acrylic paint. Nothing special.
And yes, I painted my board white, burnt it, sealed with poly, then stained with dark walnut.
I did not seal after due to time constraints but it actually came out pretty good without sealing after painting the vcarved text black.
when you said you seal the wood to reduce chip out etc was the sealer poly etc
Hey bubba,
I use water based polyurethane (semi gloss) by varathane
@@aetimberpine thanks i think that helped me solve an issue i just ran into cutting a pject that i stained pecan and carvred lettrs into that frayed so bad i coulnt get rid of them without scratching my stained top. nice design thanks for sharing and the reply
@@bubba6945 if you’re pocketing try a Downcut bit.
I didn’t have one for a long time so I used the advanced vcarve and the vbit would clean up the fraying nicely.
Sometimes I skip that step because it adds extra time thoug….living on the edge!
Thanks for checking out the video!
I think a solution to the fit problem would be to use the v-carve inlay technique.
Thank you for the suggestion.
I’ve been thinking about this for a while and while It would get me good fitting font into the pocket, I would have to surface the plug and that would get it flat letters rather than raised text. Unless I’m missing something, this may not work.
@@aetimberpine if I am not mistaken, you can use a thicker stock for the inlay and that should allow you to have it raised from the surface.
Are those boards that Norm Abrams called MDO Plywood ... Medium Density Overlay
Hi John,
I looked up MDO and it’s not the same. I think it’s just MDF with a thin layer of some hardwood. I got it from a cabinet shot that was tossing some cut offs. 😀
You were using a sealer with a sponge brush, what kind of sealer is that? Also, the polyurethane that you brushed the frame with, was that just a clear poly? I really enjoy your videos but if you could be more specific with the actual sealers and stains that you use, that would help us beginners out tremendously! Thank you for your videos!
Yes that’s a polyurethane. I leave those vague because there are different brands and poly sheens but this is good feedback and can give details of the stains and sealers.
@aetimberpine thank you!
Just tried torching the pine after I painted it and it completely warped. It's not longer usable. Any tips on how I can stop wasting my time on what I see ?
That can happen with pine. Especially if you torch and let it sit for days after torching. If it’s really bad start again.
If it’s slightly warped, nail it down to the wasteboard and carve out the plate. I’d try it and see what I get.
Work through it. It’s not easy or perfect every single time.
Where do you get your colored stains from?
I like Varathane from Home Depot. :)
I can't see the angles for the frame. Could you please specify what they are?
Working from top down
The two vertical pieces have a 90 degree top and a 22.5 degree angle on the bottom.
The two bottom pieces that meet at a point are the following:
Top angle is 22.5 deg and that meets with the 22.5 deg angle from the vertical pieces.
The bottom angle is 45 deg and that will give you the point.
If you’re a visual person like me, try on your phone. Pause the video and give it a zoom. Should be able to see it that way.
But either way hope this clarifies the angles.
@@aetimberpine thank you!