Intake isn't an edelbrock for sure, I believe assault is stamped also but definitely a knock off but if it bolts up and seals good it'll work just fine
for a screamer I have 6.300 Lunati rods and forged 4032 aluminum sumguy 3.8 pisston's on a stock 4.8 crank and deck heck i get a .0075 peekaboo "theory"
My thing is when you pointed out how close it is when it heats up. It will expand both block and crank, I mean couldn't you just shave the block is those places. I always worry about things like that I just dont like doing the same job twice. Just my .02
I like to have something that could go catastrophically wrong at any moment. It's my "vent in the Death Star" sort of thing. Keeps you on your toes lol
I'm in agreeance with you both, those weights look damn close, and I wonder what will happen once it gets heat in it. Hopefully the block will expand enough before the crank does. I think using vortecs would be a better route to go, but you gotta use what you gotta use.
I clearanced it a bit after I stopped recording. I'm not a total hack, I just play one on the internet lol In the video later today we take the heads to the machine shop and he finds a crack in them and recommends the Ebay heads.
@@Lukedawg1984 that's why I said there not really worth the hassle versus saying they won't flow, or make power because they most certainly will. but good machine work is not cheap therefore by the time you pay for the previously mentioned machine work to get the 882's up to snuff you could have a better flowing head for basically the same money. But like anything else it all really comes down to personal preference, and what you are looking out of the motor. Not trying to be Mr know it all, or trying to start any arguments brother just trying to give my opinion lol.
@Trevor Stearns. It’s all good bud no argument what so ever. I respect other’s opinions. No need to apologize, in any way. But yes you are correct, with that last comment! I agree fully!
Aint nothin like getting off work after a long ass day and seeing snidertron3000 in my notifications!! Nice to see yall makin progress on Mr Black. He'll be up and smokin tires in no time!
There's a myth that the 2 bolts have more longevity because the allow more flex at higher rpms, where a 4 bolt will be more likely to break because it can't bend much with breaking. I don't have enough experience to say one way or another though. Just ramblings from the older generations lol
If you use ARP main studs a 2 bolt main is good for 500 hp. For brutal power on a stock block the 2 bolt is the foundation that you want, but you have to add aftermarket splayed main caps and have the block/caps machined. And the block drilled and tapped for the outboard angled main bolts
I work at a automotive machine shop in the head dept. Been there 32 years. I don't mean that as I know everything but the problem with the China heads is the heat treat. They don't hold up like a Eldebrock or other USA made heads. If you never over heat it or have a major problem there fine but one blown head gasket can pretty much ruin them. Just trying to help as I see it.
It looks like a Victor Jr intake that's the most common intake used in dirt track racein down here I had 2 dirt track cars and they both had Victor Jr intakes on them that looked like that and all my buddies that race amods which is the fastest dirt track car besides a late model they run Victor Jr intakes also
+SniderTron 3000 Someone chopped it out were it used to say edelbrock Victor Jr. But that's clearly what it is. I collect intake manifold's, have examples of about every SBC intakes ever made.
I would not turn the engine over as he did for a very long time! What the purpose of doing that? Please answer, if good reason then I might start doing it.
You mean with the starter? I'm honestly not sure why he was hung up on using a starter to turn it over, most people just use a breaker bar to check things.
@@SniderTron3000 that's what hotrodding is all about. Experiment with things, if it doesn't work oh well. At least you wont be out a bunch of money with an inexpensive build
Seen your last video but I can’t remember what was wrong with other engine that you pulled ? And what makes you go with Holley instead of edelbrock carb ? Just wandering what your opinion is on the carbs
The cylinders were pretty bad on it. And I don't have a preference between the two. I just like a carb that works lol we might end up putting the edelbrock on it for now until I order the rebuild kit for the Holley
Now I remember I completely forgot my memory is shot to shit . I remember you saying you should move down south cause of the snow and it great down here no snow and cars don’t really get rusted cause of the desert . I live down in New Mexico close to Texas . You can always find good cars with little to no rust .
It looks like on the front right behind the front water crossover is where it the edelbrock logo would be they cut it out I guess to make it look like a Victor and not a Victor jr. Compare it to a Victor Jr and u will see what I'm talking about.
Hahaha, I never have. Then the other day my wife was dying her hair and was like "I got a bunch leftover, wanna dye your hair? Lol" and I was just bored enough to say, "fuck, why not?" I wish I hadn't haha
I’d strongly consider aluminum heads or at least a good aftermarket iron head, stock heads are a waste of time and money. Vortec heads work well but as you pointed out, they need machine work to accommodate a high lift camshaft. The money you’d be spending at a machine shop could go toward aftermarket heads...
Yeah, I was just at the machine shop talking to the guys there about different things and the cylinder head guy actually recommended the ebay aluminum heads lol also, the price of machining has gone WAY up! Holy hell lol
Yep, putting that much money in a set of stock heads just isn’t worth it. I know several guys that have used Chinese aluminum heads, on small blocks and big blocks, and they all worked just fine as far as I know. I’m sure some Pro Maxx or FloTek heads would work great on your engine. The Chinese manufacturing has improved a lot in the last 10-12 years, a lot of the imported parts are pretty decent these days. Fact of the matter is a lot of the big name aftermarket companies are selling you Chinese parts with their name on them anyway, hard to avoid that stuff these days...
I got 2 different sets from 2 different sellers and both came cracked in the middle of the heads,inside,!!!!! don't know if it was shipping or bad casting, there was no marks but who knows???
I appreciate that, man. I think we're going to get a set of the ebay aluminum heads though. The cylinder head guy at the machine shop said they're a lot better than people think
Ur not worried about that block being lined bored differently for the other crank that you pulled out?? We did that to a 302 ford and tighten everything up and the crank seized up. We had to go get it lined bored to the crank we swap in it.
Check the end play of the crankshaft to make sure thrust bearing isn't to tight needs .004 to .008 if to tight ballooning of the converter can burn up the thrust bearing
I would put some sharpie on the weight just to make sure check to see if it stays or gets wiped off. Kinda scary but lookin forward to see what happens
I have the 190cc aluminum heads from eBay that come bare for $400, with valves, guide seals and springs I was set for less than $600 and they work great
@@SniderTron3000 it's obviously your truck just giving a little advice. I know when we ran a single plane intake on the dyno it would kill all the low rpm touque like what u need with a heavy truck. I come from the dirt track we raced open wheel modified for several years. We never seen a single plane work till we ran a engine that wanted to stay up around 6500 to 8000. I don't think u have a bottom end or block that will take that. I just think a good dual plane will help get that heavy truck off the line. The first 60 feet is the name of the game in drag racing.
There's a very good chance you're 100% right. But I like to try things out for myself to get first hand experience even if it costs me a little more in the end. The bottom end and block, I have no *real* idea what to expect since this is a hodgepodge of used parts thrown together, but individually each part is theoretically substantial. If it were assembled properly by someone who was putting in legitimate effort and taking time to check over every little detail, instead of me just tossing it together, then I wouldn't be surprised if 7-7.5k rpm was achievable. But, I'm a Sloppy guy at heart lol
Average power through the entire rpm range up to 6500-ish will be much higher with an RPM air gap intake. Single plane intakes cause lazy part throttle and low rpm operation and they don't draw vacuum on the carb as hard as a dual plane intake. Therefore a single plane requires extensive tuning of a carb that was factory calibrated for a 2 plane. Unless that carb is already set up for a single plane you will have to fatten it up everywhere to avoid damaging your engine due to lean condition
Andrew geary i agree 100%!! Very good advice!! They are killing low end torque with that single plane! They need all the torque they can get with a 3700 pound truck! I want to see these boys succeed!!!!
Get some good dart heads dude dont waist the time with cheap castings from abroad, there is a reason they are 300 bucks!!!! Just saying, there are sertan ebay parts that are good and alot that are not!!!
Thats not an OBS bud, dont watch your videos, never will but the term OBS comes from the 92 to 97 body style Fords, the half tons were only produced from 92 to 96 in 97 you could get the heavy duty option which was the old body style truck, hence the term OBS. Learn your facts before you use them on your shitbox Chevy
Lol really? Because GM trucks are classified by square body, old body style, new body style, new new body style, etc. I don't give a fuck if you watch or not, you ignorant twat. Literally Google "OBS Truck"
@@SniderTron3000 ive got a real OBS son, build a real truck and then maybe you can make some money like your trying to off these brain washed sheep, i was just stating accurate facts, keep on with your shitbox but we dont need that mouth
Intake isn't an edelbrock for sure, I believe assault is stamped also but definitely a knock off but if it bolts up and seals good it'll work just fine
It could be a windland intake
for a screamer I have 6.300 Lunati rods and forged 4032 aluminum sumguy 3.8 pisston's on a stock 4.8 crank and deck heck i get a .0075 peekaboo "theory"
I use scorpion heads on my 383 and they work good I payed 800 for the pair
10:20 sounds like it's not getting fuel.... check your fuel pump.
Its going to heat up and expand. Counter weight
If you want to believe that I didn't go back and clearance it, then go ahead lol
Do y’all hone the cylinders so the rings can seat
Usually we'll dingleball it. But we've done plenty where we just throw it together
My thing is when you pointed out how close it is when it heats up. It will expand both block and crank, I mean couldn't you just shave the block is those places. I always worry about things like that I just dont like doing the same job twice. Just my .02
I like to have something that could go catastrophically wrong at any moment. It's my "vent in the Death Star" sort of thing. Keeps you on your toes lol
Lol smartass but that was good. Hoping it all works out for you sir. I'll be watching!! Lol
I'm in agreeance with you both, those weights look damn close, and I wonder what will happen once it gets heat in it. Hopefully the block will expand enough before the crank does. I think using vortecs would be a better route to go, but you gotta use what you gotta use.
I clearanced it a bit after I stopped recording. I'm not a total hack, I just play one on the internet lol In the video later today we take the heads to the machine shop and he finds a crack in them and recommends the Ebay heads.
What’s heads are you using and did all your oil clearances look good?
I just ordered a set of shitty China aluminum heads lol I put a retina gauge on everything and it checked out
SniderTron 3000 make sure the valves don’t leak
Love building a small block outta parts I got Layin around. It’s always good times! I’d go vortec, or some 882’s
882's are really not worth the trouble.
882’s are decent heads. With a good set of valves, a good port and polish, and some nice set of double valve springs they work great!
@@Lukedawg1984 that's why I said there not really worth the hassle versus saying they won't flow, or make power because they most certainly will. but good machine work is not cheap therefore by the time you pay for the previously mentioned machine work to get the 882's up to snuff you could have a better flowing head for basically the same money. But like anything else it all really comes down to personal preference, and what you are looking out of the motor. Not trying to be Mr know it all, or trying to start any arguments brother just trying to give my opinion lol.
@Trevor Stearns. It’s all good bud no argument what so ever. I respect other’s opinions. No need to apologize, in any way. But yes you are correct, with that last comment! I agree fully!
Aint nothin like getting off work after a long ass day and seeing snidertron3000 in my notifications!! Nice to see yall makin progress on Mr Black. He'll be up and smokin tires in no time!
two bolt main, maybe the piston you hammered in. humm
Y’all have some balls building a 2 bolt lol
There's a myth that the 2 bolts have more longevity because the allow more flex at higher rpms, where a 4 bolt will be more likely to break because it can't bend much with breaking. I don't have enough experience to say one way or another though. Just ramblings from the older generations lol
@@SniderTron3000 Name the truck crank walk lmao
Name the truck crank walk lmao. But for real this nigga gonna need ARP bolts
If you use ARP main studs a 2 bolt main is good for 500 hp. For brutal power on a stock block the 2 bolt is the foundation that you want, but you have to add aftermarket splayed main caps and have the block/caps machined. And the block drilled and tapped for the outboard angled main bolts
one of my fav car channels along with @unwrecked
I work at a automotive machine shop in the head dept. Been there 32 years. I don't mean that as I know everything but the problem with the China heads is the heat treat. They don't hold up like a Eldebrock or other USA made heads. If you never over heat it or have a major problem there fine but one blown head gasket can pretty much ruin them. Just trying to help as I see it.
Watch it with no pre-lube on the bearings might mess them up on the turn over part!!!😬
I did pre lube them 👌
It’s coming together. Love the detail on the work being done
It looks like a Victor Jr intake that's the most common intake used in dirt track racein down here I had 2 dirt track cars and they both had Victor Jr intakes on them that looked like that and all my buddies that race amods which is the fastest dirt track car besides a late model they run Victor Jr intakes also
It's pretty much the same, there just isn't any manufacturer casting marks on it
+SniderTron 3000 Someone chopped it out were it used to say edelbrock Victor Jr. But that's clearly what it is. I collect intake manifold's, have examples of about every SBC intakes ever made.
Only 11k views? This is at least 111k quality content.
Great inexpensive build.
I would not turn the engine over as he did for a very long time! What the purpose of doing that? Please answer, if good reason then I might start doing it.
You mean with the starter? I'm honestly not sure why he was hung up on using a starter to turn it over, most people just use a breaker bar to check things.
I was thinking the same thing.
Great video bro !!! Keep up the good work
Your Dad is a beast. Your lucky to have him wish he would slow down on them cigarettes tho really bad for ya. Love the channel keep up the good work.
Yeah, he already had lung cancer once. Now, he's just taunting Satan to fuck with him lol
I know there's already a hundred comments about it but man that crank makes me nervous
It'll either work or or not lol
@@SniderTron3000 that's what hotrodding is all about. Experiment with things, if it doesn't work oh well. At least you wont be out a bunch of money with an inexpensive build
Seen your last video but I can’t remember what was wrong with other engine that you pulled ? And what makes you go with Holley instead of edelbrock carb ? Just wandering what your opinion is on the carbs
The cylinders were pretty bad on it. And I don't have a preference between the two. I just like a carb that works lol we might end up putting the edelbrock on it for now until I order the rebuild kit for the Holley
Never used a Holley I just like edelbrock more cause they are simple and easy to work on .. can’t wait to hear it run and hopefully burn some rubber
I remember in another video #8 wasn’t working did you figure out why ?
It was pulling the valve stud out of the head
Now I remember I completely forgot my memory is shot to shit . I remember you saying you should move down south cause of the snow and it great down here no snow and cars don’t really get rusted cause of the desert . I live down in New Mexico close to Texas . You can always find good cars with little to no rust .
From my research, best budget aluminum heads are from skip white performance. Overseas castings but they're assembled with name brand parts!
What kind of stubby impact is that? Tried finding a 3/8 at HF but I don’t think they have them
Its the HF Earthquake, but it's a 1/2"
Have a great thanksgiving
You too, man
Check out Flotek cylinder heads. Assembled and QC'd in the USA with a China price. Real nice castings.
Nice
Love the vids brother I’ll be tuned in waiting for the next one
are you gonna use plastigauge to check clearances?
I will say no if this helps
Heck no! See no evil, hear no evil, you no what I mean? Lol
@@SniderTron3000 gratz on the build man nice job
Do a toolbox tour
There aren't too many special tools, but I might still do that eventually lol
SniderTron 3000 or a video of tools an entry level mechanic should have
Love the videos👍🏼Keep it up
Holy $hit, i didnt think that the starter turned it that fast.
Big difference between a good starter and an old one, huh?
It looks like on the front right behind the front water crossover is where it the edelbrock logo would be they cut it out I guess to make it look like a Victor and not a Victor jr. Compare it to a Victor Jr and u will see what I'm talking about.
Intake is a hurricane, knock off victor jr had one just like it as good as a edelbrock
If u go vortec heads you will haft to buy a new intake cause the angle for the intake to set in for the vortec heads are steeper the regular sbc heads
Pretty sure it's just the bolt angles? Older are straight vs newer being on the angle, or vise versa, cant remember
no, vortech is not the same thing at all, only use 8 bolt does not have bolts in the center, the one with different angle are not vortech
remi briere /
Yeah vortec heads have 8 intake bolts that go straight down no angles
What rims do you have on the OBS street truck? Thx
I wish I knew. They're some old Welds that I can't find any info on other than a Custom Offset page
Funny little dig about the Holley carb at the end lol.
Love the video! Thanks man. I look forward to them....
Nice!
I'm going to be that guy that asks you if you color your hair? I first noticed it at 2:51-ish! lol
Hahaha, I never have. Then the other day my wife was dying her hair and was like "I got a bunch leftover, wanna dye your hair? Lol" and I was just bored enough to say, "fuck, why not?" I wish I hadn't haha
@@SniderTron3000 If you start shaving your legs on camera, I swear, i'm gone! lol
I was just thinking about taking up competitive swimming, too. Dang! Lol
Buddy of mine runs the Summit Brand aluminum heads, they are good, and relatively cheap.
I’d strongly consider aluminum heads or at least a good aftermarket iron head, stock heads are a waste of time and money. Vortec heads work well but as you pointed out, they need machine work to accommodate a high lift camshaft. The money you’d be spending at a machine shop could go toward aftermarket heads...
Yeah, I was just at the machine shop talking to the guys there about different things and the cylinder head guy actually recommended the ebay aluminum heads lol also, the price of machining has gone WAY up! Holy hell lol
Yep, putting that much money in a set of stock heads just isn’t worth it. I know several guys that have used Chinese aluminum heads, on small blocks and big blocks, and they all worked just fine as far as I know. I’m sure some Pro Maxx or FloTek heads would work great on your engine. The Chinese manufacturing has improved a lot in the last 10-12 years, a lot of the imported parts are pretty decent these days. Fact of the matter is a lot of the big name aftermarket companies are selling you Chinese parts with their name on them anyway, hard to avoid that stuff these days...
I got 2 different sets from 2 different sellers and both came cracked in the middle of the heads,inside,!!!!! don't know if it was shipping or bad casting, there was no marks but who knows???
That crank is going to be hitting as soon as it breaks in and gets any movement to it whatsoever. Lmao
If you want to think I didn't go back and clearance it that's on you lol
HOW TF DO YOU LOSE AN ENGINE?!?!?!
I wore pants with a hole on the pocket and lost a Ford 300-6 and $0.25.
High rpm screamer for how long .
A second, maybe a minute. If we're lucky, a fortnight. Maybe even a score, who knows!
looks like my shop sbc everywhere good or bad you can never have enough parts or chevys lol
Like the music you add..
Good ol boat ancher of a gm starter. Pick one any one, nope that one don't work either. Classic Chevy 😆😂😉😎
I need to no cause I got a edlbroke duel plane intake thank is a vortec intake u can put a carb on it and I'll send it to no for free
I appreciate that, man. I think we're going to get a set of the ebay aluminum heads though. The cylinder head guy at the machine shop said they're a lot better than people think
What part of Michigan are you in
I'm by Hastings
Ur not worried about that block being lined bored differently for the other crank that you pulled out?? We did that to a 302 ford and tighten everything up and the crank seized up. We had to go get it lined bored to the crank we swap in it.
Not really. It's possible but I think it'll be okay.
@@SniderTron3000 ya I would agree. She was spinning nicely so think ur good to..
Justin Peacock there’s your problem you used a ford
@@chinlsx2077 wasnt my ford was a buddy. I drive chevys.
Good thing those engines parts are cheap. 🤣. Turning it over with no oil pump
pops face when the big daddy starter didn't work..but at least you guys have like 100 starters laying around
who else jumped when the spray shot towards the camera lol
HELL YEAH BOI
I swear I thought the title said "Forgot Bottom End For Jack Black" lmao
#clickbait
I am enjoying this guys videos, just found his channel. Unfortunately the music makes them almost unwatchable.
I try to pick relatively neutral music. But, there's only so much free music available that won't get the videos taken down because of a copyright
Intake looks like an old pro comp electronics or a professional products
8:22 my eyes😂😂 camera lense
Check the end play of the crankshaft to make sure thrust bearing isn't to tight needs .004 to .008 if to tight ballooning of the converter can burn up the thrust bearing
Thats exactly what I was thinking
I would put some sharpie on the weight just to make sure check to see if it stays or gets wiped off. Kinda scary but lookin forward to see what happens
Where can I get Ahold of you I have some questions to ask about my Tahoe 5.7???
Instagram is the easiest
SniderTron 3000 what’s your instagram
Good shit buddy, hopefully that crank still clears after everything has heat cycled!!
I'm more worried about when it has a load on it and flexes. But, it'll self clearance real quick! Lol
@@SniderTron3000 haha this is true
@@SniderTron3000 its guna snap like 10th pull u best baby it
uh, lube ain't gonna last long lol
I have the 190cc aluminum heads from eBay that come bare for $400, with valves, guide seals and springs I was set for less than $600 and they work great
Its a Ebay victor Jr copy and its for yealy high RPM like 6500 and up to make power. A dual plane will be a lot better for what u are doing.
How so? You seem to contradict yourself there because this is supposed to be a drag truck
@@SniderTron3000 it's obviously your truck just giving a little advice. I know when we ran a single plane intake on the dyno it would kill all the low rpm touque like what u need with a heavy truck. I come from the dirt track we raced open wheel modified for several years. We never seen a single plane work till we ran a engine that wanted to stay up around 6500 to 8000. I don't think u have a bottom end or block that will take that. I just think a good dual plane will help get that heavy truck off the line. The first 60 feet is the name of the game in drag racing.
There's a very good chance you're 100% right. But I like to try things out for myself to get first hand experience even if it costs me a little more in the end. The bottom end and block, I have no *real* idea what to expect since this is a hodgepodge of used parts thrown together, but individually each part is theoretically substantial. If it were assembled properly by someone who was putting in legitimate effort and taking time to check over every little detail, instead of me just tossing it together, then I wouldn't be surprised if 7-7.5k rpm was achievable. But, I'm a Sloppy guy at heart lol
Average power through the entire rpm range up to 6500-ish will be much higher with an RPM air gap intake. Single plane intakes cause lazy part throttle and low rpm operation and they don't draw vacuum on the carb as hard as a dual plane intake. Therefore a single plane requires extensive tuning of a carb that was factory calibrated for a 2 plane. Unless that carb is already set up for a single plane you will have to fatten it up everywhere to avoid damaging your engine due to lean condition
Andrew geary i agree 100%!! Very good advice!! They are killing low end torque with that single plane! They need all the torque they can get with a 3700 pound truck! I want to see these boys succeed!!!!
But it ain’t hittin
Get some good dart heads dude dont waist the time with cheap castings from abroad, there is a reason they are 300 bucks!!!! Just saying, there are sertan ebay parts that are good and alot that are not!!!
Funnily enough, I was just at the machine shop today and the guy in charge of cylinder heads recommended the cheapo ones lol
The cheap ones are not deburred well and the valve seats are not prefect. At machine shop can clean them up though
I'm a Eldebrock guy to. Just easier to tune.
Thats not an OBS bud, dont watch your videos, never will but the term OBS comes from the 92 to 97 body style Fords, the half tons were only produced from 92 to 96 in 97 you could get the heavy duty option which was the old body style truck, hence the term OBS. Learn your facts before you use them on your shitbox Chevy
Lol really? Because GM trucks are classified by square body, old body style, new body style, new new body style, etc. I don't give a fuck if you watch or not, you ignorant twat. Literally Google "OBS Truck"
@@SniderTron3000 ive got a real OBS son, build a real truck and then maybe you can make some money like your trying to off these brain washed sheep, i was just stating accurate facts, keep on with your shitbox but we dont need that mouth
You stated your opinion, and your opinion was wrong. OBS is just as used in the GM world as it is in the Ford world.
Sorry for my language but that thing is gonna be faster than heck when you're done with it
I hope it just stays together lol
@@SniderTron3000 just throw some jb weld on the bolts, it's better than lock tight
It ain’t hittin’!