I was taught as a metal model maker that the caliper tips are pointed and hardened specifically for scrubbing accurate lines on sheet metal or thicker metal. Thirty years later the points are as sharp as new.
Measuring surfaces and the bar are hardened stainless steel in all decent quality calipers to keep them from denting. The tips are not meant to be used as scribes but pretty much everyone does it.
Seriously, don’t use the tip to scratch a line. Despite what Edward says, these will wear, and you’ll lose the accuracy at the tips. Just get the proper tool.
@@tluva1020 a carbide scriber. There are many different measuring tools such as adjustable squares that we use to give us the place where we need to make a line and then use the scriber to mark it. A surface plate with equipment to measure and scribe lines is another example. But really, these lines are just to allow us to see where we need to do something. To do that actual work we need to set it up on the machine and use other tools to find the edges, the center and other places of interest. How, for example, are you going to get an end mill in the right place to 0.001” accuracy by looking at a scribed line on the work? You can’t. The lines are just there as a goof prevention tool. They’re not intended as actual cut lines. If you’re not doing precision work, it’s different.
Funny...just made few markins today with cheap caliper. Bought it from eflye, cost 3usd. It has 0.20mm fault, so it is just fine to sheetmetal and iron work jobs. The caliper with tightening screw is nice, it keeps it locked good. If points get dull , you can sharpen them with belt grinder easy, remember to grind only outside 😆
Excellent, for anyone not knowing about these, avoid the digital ones as the batteries are a pain in the neck and as Matt says most of us don't need the accuracy(which would probably be dodgy on cheap ones anyway), UK folks should be able to find Verniers at Halfords, B&Q etc. Note Matt centre punched one of the plates he was marking out, best to do that on millscaled stock etc, as if you scrub off the millscale before welding, you lose the scribemarks, so the punch marks will keep you lined up.Another good use for Verners is pulling out tiny metal splinters from your fingers or whereever.
Some of us do machining, where we do need the accuracy. Mechanical models are just as accurate, but are more of a pain to use, particularly when measuring at some awkward angle where you can’t read the tiny numbers without removing the tool from the work, which then ruins the measurement. But, you can buy points for your calipers that fit over the legs and tighten with small set screws. The tips are points, so it’s easier to scribe with than the regular caliper tips. Then you can scribe away all you like. If the points get dull, get another set. I’ve got a set with carbide points. $15, or about 12£. They will last forever.
Noice mate, noice. Big fan of your work. Shit must grow on tree's round your way. If my Grandad saw you abuse that caliper, he would turn in his grave!
I purchased one of the early Mitutoyo digital verniers many years ago. I used to work with an old tool maker who used to be pretty heavy handed with his tools. I used to have nightmares of him using my vernier as an adjustable spanner waking up wanting to strangle him. I still have my vernier (I strangled him) and it's as good now as it was then. I also have the latest version which I have to say is a little stiff. I cringe when I see people in You Tube videos using verniers as scribers. As they say, look after your tools and they'll look after you. Keep up the good videos. Sorry, can't give you a thumbs up for the atrocities inflicted on that vernier.
OK but if you want to write your calculations right you should put: (225−100)÷2, not 225−100÷2 . The caluclator does it right, but doesn't show the (). The reason is that division would occur first by convention (order of operation/order of precedence), which would give a different result. It's best when writing out the calculations to be correct or you'll get random, annoying comments from youtube yahoos, like me ;-)
Yep did engineering have my good set for accuracy wrapped in soft lint free cloth. And another set also good sitting on my welder for bracket markouts etc.😉😊👍👍
Thanks for the tips. It's a good thing I bought a cheap one from Harbor freight. Do you guys have anything like Harbor Freight over there? I think Canada has something with a different name that carries the same products. Thanks again.
We get halfords which has a half decent range of mechanics tools, and homebase are the main big box type places. Sometimes you'll get stuff like verniers in there
Another great tips and tricks video! But..........you're a metal fab man, I hate seeing you use that claw hammer! Please buy yourself a ball peen hammer, I'd send you one of mine but they're too precious to give up.
Blue or red Sharpies work very well to color the metal first, it makes the scribe marks really stand out. Old eyes need all the help they can get!
You have to love the university of youtube thanks.
I was taught as a metal model maker that the caliper tips are pointed and hardened specifically for scrubbing accurate lines on sheet metal or thicker metal.
Thirty years later the points are as sharp as new.
Measuring surfaces and the bar are hardened stainless steel in all decent quality calipers to keep them from denting. The tips are not meant to be used as scribes but pretty much everyone does it.
Seriously, don’t use the tip to scratch a line. Despite what Edward says, these will wear, and you’ll lose the accuracy at the tips. Just get the proper tool.
@@melgrosswhat tool is that ?
@@tluva1020 a carbide scriber. There are many different measuring tools such as adjustable squares that we use to give us the place where we need to make a line and then use the scriber to mark it. A surface plate with equipment to measure and scribe lines is another example. But really, these lines are just to allow us to see where we need to do something. To do that actual work we need to set it up on the machine and use other tools to find the edges, the center and other places of interest. How, for example, are you going to get an end mill in the right place to 0.001” accuracy by looking at a scribed line on the work? You can’t. The lines are just there as a goof prevention tool. They’re not intended as actual cut lines. If you’re not doing precision work, it’s different.
Funny...just made few markins today with cheap caliper. Bought it from eflye, cost 3usd. It has 0.20mm fault, so it is just fine to sheetmetal and iron work jobs. The caliper with tightening screw is nice, it keeps it locked good. If points get dull , you can sharpen them with belt grinder easy, remember to grind only outside 😆
Brings back memories of my apprenticeship all those years ago,got more than a slap on the wrist I we did that!
I just came across this vid today..talk about coincidence. .I'm making a bench grinder stand in exactly that way..cheers Matt for the calculation. .
Hello from Canada...wonderfully informative, practical and delivered without nonsense. Thank you.
No problem, Cheers
I saw you doing this on another video and have been abusing my calipers daily ever since! Thank you.
Nice work very basic and very informative thanks for sharing
Nice. I was just looking for an adjustable scribe that makes circles. Ask and you shall receive.
Excellent, for anyone not knowing about these, avoid the digital ones as the batteries are a pain in the neck and as Matt says most of us don't need the accuracy(which would probably be dodgy on cheap ones anyway), UK folks should be able to find Verniers at Halfords, B&Q etc.
Note Matt centre punched one of the plates he was marking out, best to do that on millscaled stock etc, as if you scrub off the millscale before welding, you lose the scribemarks, so the punch marks will keep you lined up.Another good use for Verners is pulling out tiny metal splinters from your fingers or whereever.
Damn I should have got the splinter trick in there too. good point on the mill scale.Cheers
Some of us do machining, where we do need the accuracy. Mechanical models are just as accurate, but are more of a pain to use, particularly when measuring at some awkward angle where you can’t read the tiny numbers without removing the tool from the work, which then ruins the measurement.
But, you can buy points for your calipers that fit over the legs and tighten with small set screws. The tips are points, so it’s easier to scribe with than the regular caliper tips. Then you can scribe away all you like. If the points get dull, get another set. I’ve got a set with carbide points. $15, or about 12£. They will last forever.
Never knew of the circle move! Thanks!
For advanced tool abuse look into "geometric straight edge and compass construction" and pick up some purpose-built scribing calipers
Some great tips there for someone that’s starting out like myself. Thank you!
Cheers.
Steven Watson A
Sounds like Stuart did a voice over towards the end there on that last piece
You can use the inside measurement points also, arguably a little more accurate.
Very cool! I like your style. Now I got a good reason to buy some cheap calipers.....
Cheers
Noice mate, noice. Big fan of your work. Shit must grow on tree's round your way. If my Grandad saw you abuse that caliper, he would turn in his grave!
Nice very nice. Thank you for the ideas!
Cheers
Great video and thanks for sharing!
Thanks Matt!
I purchased one of the early Mitutoyo digital verniers many years ago. I used to work with an old tool maker who used to be pretty heavy handed with his tools. I used to have nightmares of him using my vernier as an adjustable spanner waking up wanting to strangle him. I still have my vernier (I strangled him) and it's as good now as it was then. I also have the latest version which I have to say is a little stiff. I cringe when I see people in You Tube videos using verniers as scribers. As they say, look after your tools and they'll look after you. Keep up the good videos. Sorry, can't give you a thumbs up for the atrocities inflicted on that vernier.
This video rocked , learned stuff today thanks 🙏
Good to hear. Cheers
Top tips, thank you sir
Awesome 😎 👏
Get a giant blue jumbo permanent marker for easy layout fluid that you will never spill or need a rag to apply.
very useful video mate
Cheers mate.
Great video as always Matt! The speed dubbed voice made me giggle lol
Cheers
OK but if you want to write your calculations right you should put: (225−100)÷2, not 225−100÷2 . The caluclator does it right, but doesn't show the (). The reason is that division would occur first by convention (order of operation/order of precedence), which would give a different result. It's best when writing out the calculations to be correct or you'll get random, annoying comments from youtube yahoos, like me ;-)
Yep did engineering have my good set for accuracy wrapped in soft lint free cloth.
And another set also good sitting on my welder for bracket markouts etc.😉😊👍👍
Great video Matt, thanks for sharing. I will never look at a vernier the same again, LOL. Cheers
How did you get the measurements 225 and 210 by using a measuring tape?
Millimetres
this is fine as long as the plate is square and parrel
Thanks for the tips. It's a good thing I bought a cheap one from Harbor freight. Do you guys have anything like Harbor Freight over there? I think Canada has something with a different name that carries the same products. Thanks again.
No we don't have harbor freight, I buy a lot online as there's not much around where I live. Cheers
We get halfords which has a half decent range of mechanics tools, and homebase are the main big box type places. Sometimes you'll get stuff like verniers in there
Canada has Princess Auto
Another great tips and tricks video! But..........you're a metal fab man, I hate seeing you use that claw hammer! Please buy yourself a ball peen hammer, I'd send you one of mine but they're too precious to give up.
👍👍🇨🇦