Adjusting the Valve Lash / Clearance on a Generac / Honeywell Air Cooled 17 kw Whole Home Generator
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2021
- In this video I walkthrough the step by step process of adjusting the valves on an overhead valve engine.
Always adjust the valves on a cool engine.
I am working on a Generac 998cc engine that is in a whole home generator. These steps can be used on essentially all OHV engines.
On this engine, adjusting the valves is required after the first 25 hours of operation and then every 400 hours going forward. Always consult your engine’s manual for specifications before starting.
Improperly adjusted valves can create knocking, clacking sounds, loss of power and poor efficiency. In extreme situations cause damage to the valve train, push rods, cam shafts, rocker arms, valve springs and the valves themselves. Out of spec valve clearances can lead to hard starts causing a over crank alarm 1100 .
Although this process may seem daunting, with a little bit of practice you will find it is not that difficult to do.
This video was made on request, as generators are often something that are overlooked until they are needed. Unfortunately some viewers were affected by this hurricane season, and their generators are now running 24/7. I hope this video helps keep you and your families safe during this tragic time.
As always, please do not hesitate to reach out with feedback, comments or questions in the comments section, and I will do my best to respond or to point you in the right direction.
Thanks for tuning in, and remember - Repair It! Don't Wreck It.
Roger - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I watched this video and fixed my 14kw LP standby generator after two separate service companies were unable to diagnose and fix the problem. I was out of options and decided to just go for it even though I have limited knowledge about small engines, having done simple things such as changing spark plugs or doing an oil change. I did a victory lap around my yard when the engine roared to life.
We live on an island on the coast of Maine and power goes out frequently and for days at a time, and finding reliable local service has proven to be a fruitless effort. You’ve helped this family of three survive the winter and you’ve helped strengthen our self-reliance.
These videos are the reason I came to TH-cam when it first launched, unfortunately they’re increasingly fewer and harder to find.
Hi there Mad Bear Forge. Thank you so much for your kind words. I am thrilled that the video got your generator on track. What could be better for a utuber like myself to help out someone in a pinch. Good luck with your future projects armed with a new level of self confidence. Thanks again. Roger
Pro tip: No need to remove the muffler cover panel, only need to remove the 6 bolts for the front cover. And you don't have to reach across a hot muffler. Valve clearance needs to be set with a cold engine, but it's is acceptable to run it for a very short time before hand, but the muffler gets hot in that time. That gear wrench magnetic spark plug socket is awesome!
Thanks for the tips @nonyabeeswax2967. Yes the plug wrench worked very well. I got the idea to use it when changing plugs on my Ford Ranger. It’s a 6 cylinder and one side definitely is easier with this style spark plug wrench. Thanks for watching and posting comments. Roger
No valves on the back side of the f”Generac?
One of the BEST informative videos on TH-cam!! Thank you for your dedication to teaching us homeowners....it is very much appreciated.
Hi Brett Berrie. Thank you for checking out the video and your kind comments. After retiring I started doing these videos as a hobby. Receiving comments from viewers such as yourself make it all worthwhile. Thanks again. Roger
I'll have to do this myself. Thanks for the video.
My Generac dealer always up sells service contracts, and they don't even use Generac parts.
The first service I did, I ordered all Generac parts and replaced no-name parts the dealer had installed. Kinda mad the dealer would save a buck by doing that.
Edit: Finally did it. The generator shows 80hrs of use and I found everything to be a little loose. Thanks again for the video. Very helpful.
Hi James D. Thanks for watching the video. I would be unhappy if a GENERAC dealer didn’t use GENERAC parts. I’m sure there are parts that work but these days it’s not easy to confirm the quality or proper fit. To be save safe, purchase from a reputable source. The money you save on labour far outweighs the extra cost for dealer parts. Adjusting valve lash is not to difficult but you have to take your time. If you have some experience around equipment such as lawn mowers, snow blowers, car maintenance or fixing things around the house it shouldn’t be a problem. I think the video explains what your getting in to. If your unsure you could remove the valve cover, spark plug, find top dead centre and check the gap. If you are having trouble at this stage I would say it would be out of you skill level and have someone do it for you. If the valves are not adjusted properly, starting the engine could cause some serious damage. Roger
Yes I ran thru the cycle twice to make sure I knew where I was in the combustion cycle. The trick is to keep an eye on the valves as you are going thru the cycle. When the intake valve is opening(right side facing engine) that is the intake stroke. The piston is going down. Intake valve is open. Now as the piston comes up it is on the compression stroke. Both valves are closed. When the balloon is filling up it gives me a visual indicating both valves are closed and the piston is compressing the air into the balloon. At this point at top dead centre you should be able to wiggle the lifters. If you can’t your not at top dead centre or the valves are super tight. When the balloon collapses the exhaust valve has opened and you have gone to far in the cycle. You can always go thru the cycle as many times as you want to find the sweat spot where the balloon fills up and both valves are closed. Either way works. Ballon and stick. I think if your doing this for the first time I would use the wooden dowel in the spark plug hole. It gives you a better feel where the piston is. Going up and back down. I hope this helps and makes sense. Thanks
Excellent work! (I'm an 25 year EGSA certified Generac technician). The only thing that made me wince was putting the bulkhead screws on the top panel. If one drops, it could turn into a long afternoon trying to fish with a magnet, or taking the enclosure apart at that end. (Reason being the alternator becomes a large magnet, and can suck a small screw or washer in, shorting the rotor and stator.)
Great vid!
Hi @darrenotis5672. Thanks for checking out the video and posting your thoughts. I never thought of the ramifications of dropping a screw and causing some serious damage. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I value your comments especially coming from a highly experienced tech. Roger
Excellent video. Very thorough. Thank you.
Thanks Daniel Loomis. I glad you enjoyed the video. Roger
Great video in explaining everything you had to do.
Great Video great explanation. I feel more confident with valve adjustment since I watched your video. That was the one thing that I wasn’t sure about. Have a Great Day.
Hey, TheAirboss1955. Thanks for the comments. It’s not that difficult. Just take your time and have the proper basic tools. Sometimes when you tighten the jamb nut the adjustment changes. Be patient and re set the gap. It may take a few times to get it where you want it.
Excellent Explanation! 😄👍
Thanks for the feedback Stephen. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
Hi joe s. Thanks for looking at the video. Hopefully you will able to do your own maintenance on your new generator. Roger
Great video, I bought a generator like the one you serviced, I haven't did a valve adjustment but I know I'll have to soon, thank you for the great information, happy holidays
Hi Joe Jones. Thanks for checking out the video and taking time to post your comments. I appreciate it. This was my nephews generator in the video. It has been very reliable. No issues so far. I have the 11 kw version with the smaller 530 engine. Also no problems. This particular series seems to have few issues. Good luck with your generator. Happy holidays to you also. Roger
Excellent! Perfectly executed.
@e.tylerwright3483. Sounds like you enjoyed the video. I hope it was helpful. Thanks for such a positive post. Roger
Very informative. We are getting our Generac here real soon. Thanks for this video.
Hi joe s. Thanks for checking out the video. I like to respond to all comments. For some reason I missed yours. I hope if you did get a Generac it all went well. Thanks. Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 It didn't go well. After Waiting on a unit to be delivered to our installer after 9 months, we cancelled the order and got our deposit back.
Great video Sir, thank you.
Hi Brian. Thanks for taking the time to view and comment on the video. It was a lot of fun to do. Roger
Thanks for the generac video
You “welcome” Genticentre. I’m glad that you viewed it. Thanks for the feedback. Roger
Hi David. I understand your frustration. If it’s not out of your reach I still would check the valve lash at least on the front cylinder which is fairly easy to get to. It doesn’t hurt to check to help rule out things. You say it’s running pretty good after it starts but it’s worth a check. The other thought I had, the solenoid on the fuel regulator may have a small leak at rest. When the generator sits for a while there’s a buildup of gas which causes the hard start or popping. Once it starts it’ll run fine because it clears the excess fuel. It’s like flooding a car with a carburetor. If it starts with no problems in consecutive attempts it may be the problem. There’s still a chance it could be ignition. This is one of those problems that can make you crazy. There are some tests you can do with a manometer on the fuel regulator. Resist the temptation to throw parts at it. It can get expensive. There is a web site that you can ask questions on their forum. Also post videos of your problem. There’s a bunch of professionals that install and service generators for a living. They provide quality advise. If you need parts Chris the moderator will be able to get them for you and support you thru the process of installing them.
It’s called Gentekpower.com I hope this helps. Roger
Really outstanding
Hi Gary. Thanks for checking out the video and posting comments. Roger
Well done video
Hi Florian Kozinczak. I appreciate you taking the time to post a comment. Thanks.Roger
Great video, very helpful. To clarify, when you say "3 mil", it should actually be "3 thousandths (imperial), not 3 millimeters ... Hopefuly one day the archaic imperial system will be gone and the USA can join the rest of the world in using a logical, accurate, and easy to remember measurement system.
I really appreciate your video. I'm going to do an adjustment on my old 2005 era generac. It has about 10 hours since 2009 on it. Always hard to start.
Hi Eastman Research. Thanks for checking the video out. It’s a good start to check the valve adjustment. Also check the fuel pressure, air filter and spark plug gap while your there. Roger
Hey P Anderson. Your right! It’s a slang way of saying it. I will make the change on the next video. Thanks Roger
Informative video
Glad you think so!
Great job! This valve gap and oil change at 25 hrs run time, annually or every 200hrs required per Generac owners manual . Be sure to document it, start a log with receipts in case a claim needs to be filed in the event of a failure. And yes, you can do this on your own, does not void warranty.
Hi @lynnmason6020. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. If you take your time it’s not to difficult as you know. Some basic tools and an understanding of how things work. The more you do yourself the more independent you are. Also, it’s fun and satisfying to look after your own stuff. Thanks for posting. Roger
Great video, very helpful for someone who hasn't adjusted valve lash in many years. Also, it looks like that generators exhaust was placed really (too) close to the furnace intake/exhaust if that's what those PVC pipes are for in the background.
Unfortunately I couldn’t get more information from the owner. I agree that the pvc piping is probably to close to the generator. It wouldn’t be to hard to rectify. There is a plenty of room to raise or laterally extend the pvc to meet the requirements. When I was looking at the requirements in the gas code and the Generac installation manual it can get complicated when looking at the rules and charts. For complicated installations I definitely would run my plan by the inspector as there seems to be some room for interpretation. You don’t want to start making changes after the install is finished. Thanks again. Roger
Good video
gentexelite2021. I hope it helped you out. Thanks for viewing and posting. Roger
nice job
Hey ratbrain7743. I’m glad you liked the video. Hopefully if you we’re adjusting your valves it all worked out. Thanks for viewing and posting. Roger
I watched this wonderful video, took notes, and prepared to take this on and gave the manual one more read through and noticed "IMPORTANT NOTE: Valve lash not required on 14 or 18kW units with 816cc engine."
That was kind of a relief and my lessons learned were "always check the manual first" and "this is a generic manual, pay special attention to 816cc notes"
Also totally my fault because I have an 18kW and you literally have 17kW in the title and 17 != 18 and reading > me.
@rajon25 Thanks for looking at the video and posting comments. You make a good point. Always check the manual specific to your equipment. It looks like Generac is producing some of their equipment with hydraulic lifters. This is a great feature. It reduces the amount of maintenance which can get expensive but necessary to keep you generator reliable. Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 the worst part is I'm an electrical engineer so I should have known better but I am staunch believer in reading manuals and following manufacturer recommended maintenance. I really love sharing everything I've learned and am so happy that there are other people that are willing to share what they've learned too. Thanks for what you do! -Jon
@@rajon25 Your very welcome.
Best to check valve lash every year and drain tank
Simply a great video. Probably the first one I’ve seen (I have looked at a LOT) that gives a clear description of how to turn the fan to get to TDC. Everyone else says CCW …. but what is the orientation of the observer? Pull the fan UP to the exhaust. Well done. 17:30
Hi jatimmonsjr. Thanks for checking out the video. I am not sure of your question. I’m going to try to answer what I think it is. When both valves are on the compression stroke and are closed. that’s a good spot to adjust the valves. When facing the fan from the muffler end , and then looking towards the air filter turn it counter clockwise. This is the direction you should be rotating the crankshaft according to the manual that Generac produces. There are other ways to set the valves but I find this the easiest way to demonstrate so people don’t get confused. In reality, you can adjust either the intake or the exhaust valve when they are fully closed. As long as the valve is not on the lobe on the camshaft, it can be adjusted. Some people don’t quite understand how this all works. I try to keep it simple. I hope this answers your question, if not send me another comment and perhaps reword your question. Thanks for watching.Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 that answers it perfectly. Thanks again for the great video and for your reply. I can’t wait for the weather to warm up so I can get out and tackle this job.
Very helpful video. Especially part about the valve clearance increasing after tightening the lock nut. I set to 2 like you suggested and ended up at 3. It did take multiple attempts.
Thanks for checking out the video and posting @gordonschiff3621. If you set the valves once in a while it will take a few attempts to figure out how much the settings change when tightening the lock nut as you discovered and mentioned. I found you need to be patient and in the mood to do the adjustment. Eventually you will get it adjusted exactly where you want it. Good thing it doesn’t have to be done that often. Personally I would check it out of the box. I don’t think quality control is what it used to be. Thanks again. Roger
Excellent video! I have a 2014 22kw and I do the very basic maintenance stuff (spark plugs, oil/filter change) but never adjusted valves which I've always felt might be a daunting task. Watching your video makes it SEEM easy. It certainly looks "simple". Anyways, a newbie question. I see the valves moving up and down (3:57) but don't understand "how" you're doing that. I was under the impress that one would have to turn over the engine (by rotating the fan) for that to happen? I see both of your hands so unless you have a prehensile tail that you're using I'm a bit baffled! lol!
Hi CGF. Thanks for checking out the video. Yes you have to turn the engine over. The video didn’t catch it. I removed the sheet metal panels that protect the muffler. Once that is done the fan can be rotated which is connected to the engine. If you are replacing the spark plugs removing them will make it easier to rotate but not necessary. I hope this makes sense. Take your time. After setting the gap re check as it can change after tightening the lock nut. You may have to try several times but be patient. A slight drag on the feeler gauge is what your looking for. Engine should be cold. Not run for a few hours or overnight. If there any other questions I’ll try my best to answer answer them for you. Roger
It is my understanding, that the annual maintenance also requires oil and filter change as well as the air filter change out. You have the machine opened up, so it makes sense to do a complete annual maintenance and inspection. The video was otherwise very informative. Thanks!
Hi Steven D. Thanks for taking the time to view the video. Maintenance as you know is critical to ensure these generators start when there is a power outage. Every manufacturer has its own time frame for oil changes. On my GENERAC the owners manual says every 2 years or 200 hours. For me I prefer to change the oil and oil filter once a year even if the running hours are low. I think the oil should be checked, and an inspection of the generator enclosure should be done a couple of times a year at a minimum. If there is a problem such as mice the sooner you catch it the better. There are very few power outages where I am. Most of the running time is from the exercise schedule. It might be over kill but since I’m doing it myself the cost is worth it. The air filter all depends on the condition of the area the generator is located. Just like a car, if driven in dusty conditions you may have to replace it more often than the manufacturer states. Always maintain at the manufacturers specifications as a minimum. Roger
Great Video sir...My home came with a 10kw generac. I bought the maintenance kit and it included an air filter with a black plastic housing around it. How would I change that out? I can't find where it goes.
Thanks for checking out the video. Based on the type of air filter this unit was made around 2006-2012. If you remove the top cover and front panel , on the right side of the fire wall the air filter is located in this section. I’m not real familiar with this older unit but looking at the manual it looks easy to change. Pretty sure it’s one gear clamp. If you go to GENERAC.com they have your owners manual online. It’s part # 0g8334. On page 24 they have a decent picture of the air filter location. The engine in your 10kw is the GT-530. Another great source for information, parts and repair manuals is gentekpower.com I hope this helps. Roger
so if I understand you correctly, you showed dead center with the balloon twice in the video? If it expands the balloon, you are automatically on dead center no matter what?
Good thing I checked mine, the rocker arm was broken off and just lying in the oil tray
Hi chuckb2175. Wow. I guess the question is why the rocker arm broke off. Do you think the nut came loose? Definitely you want to find the reason before running the engine. Roger
What brand feeler gauge are you using? Thanks for the video.
Hi there wendellsmith1964. I really can’t remember. I have a few sets and they are all different. The brands are Lisle, Powerbuilt and General. It really doesn’t matter though. All of the parts stores carry them. Just make sure before you buy the sizes you need are included. There should be a list of the sizes on the front or back of the packaging. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project. Roger
Thanks Roger.
For some reason a 13mm wrench fit better on my locking nut than the 1/2 inch.
Valves are adjusted and the rpm loss error did not trigger again.
Hi there. From what I read 1/2” is 12.7 mm. So they are very close. Could be a few factors. The nut may be 13 mm or the wrench may be off a hair. Most of us working on equipment have both metric and imperial sized tools. You never know what your going to run into. Improper valve clearance can cause problems as you know. It’s a good place to start when doing diagnostics. I’m glad it solved your problem. Thanks watching and posting. Roger.
Does anyone know if they have this type of videos on the Generac page? (this video is excellent, thank you) I have access to the deler page and the truth is it is a disaster to find what you are looking for.
Victorbellman1860 Thanks for checking out the video. I can’t help you with the Generac page. I’ve never looked at it. The are other videos similar to mine that are well done. Worth a look as everyone has their own techniques and tips. Roger
On old Harleys I use to adjust valves by when the exhaust valve was down I would adjust the intake then do the same for the exhaust side . Would that work for these engines too or is there a reason why it would not ?
Hi 12wing Wfetech. There’s all kinds of opinions on how to position the valves to set the lash. To answer your question I really don’t know. For me what I like to do is to cycle the engine several times to check the opening and closing of the valves. Make sure your are rotating in the direction the engine runs. Once I have determined the intake and exhaust stroke I feel comfortable that when both are closed on the compression stoke then I can adjust both valves. I think this method for beginners is the safest way. As you know , as long as the valve is not riding on the lobe of the camshaft it should be closed. In my opinion it really doesn’t matter what stroke you are on. The key is to make absolutely sure you are in the correct position on the camshaft. So your method should work. As an experiment and if you have time try both methods and see if the results are the same. I just finished adjusting the valve lash on my Honda lawn mower. Once the valve cover was removed the way the engine was designed I could clearly see the cam lobe making the set up easy. For those who have not taken an engine apart and not seen how things work I try to keep it as simple as possible. A website called gentekpower.com is a great site for information on generators. Thanks for checking out the video. Roger
On a twin cam HD wants the piston at TDC and both valves closed. At TDC with both valves closed the lifter is sitting on the lowest point on the cam lobe. I remember doing old flathead Fords your way, but I stopped doing that years ago. I'm not an engineer, but after working on tons of Generacs I'd go with the factory recommendations.
You ever see the problem with popping up through the carb upon cold start? Once it smoothes out 5 to 10 seconds it runs fine. Ive got a 2019 Generac 20kw LP fuel
Hi David. Thanks for checking out my video. The first thing I would do would cover the basics. Make sure you check the valve lash, the spark plug gap/replace if worn. Same goes for the air filter. After that if your still having problems check the fuel pressure with a manometer. This is a good start. There is a lot of reasons this could be occurring so you want to systematically rule out the causes. The goal is to try to narrow it down to a electrical or a fuel problem. I hope this helps. Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 thanks for the swift reply. Weird thing is maintenance was performed, plugs, air and oil filters fuel pressure checked and adjusted, restarted not a problem. Restarted its exercise time for about 3 weeks no popping.
This is where I have to rule out valve lash as it straightened out after a maintenance and they're either in spec or not .
Warmed up it will restart every time no popping. Its only when its sitting between exercises does it stumble and pop on cold start. Outside temp has no affect , does it cold or warm .
Driving me nuts lol
Maxitrol primary regulator bleeding fuel I guarantee it. Pressure builds up at the gen regulator. Will do exactly as you are describing. I didn’t even have to read that it was propane install.
@@chet3larson it has seemed to correct itself after the maintenance with new plugs but definitely will dig deeper into your suggestion. Thanks !
@davidsuminski4243 I am glad that something easy as changing the plugs made a difference. It could be a bunch of small things causing your initial problem. Once you start eliminating them it will be easier to get to the core issue. Thanks for the update. I really like to know how things are going. I appreciate the update and your taking time to post. Roger
Hi Rodger- I have 14 kw generac generator similar to the one you have in the video. I noticed recently that it has trouble starting during its exercise sessions. I can manually start it but it takes a long time. I recently did an oil/plug change myself. I did not do the valves and since we bought the house from someone else (generator came with it) don't know when/if they were ever adjusted. The generator is about 10 years old. From the video it seems like the hardest thing for me (ill be attempting this solo) will be getting the engine to top dead center. Any advice for a newbie trying this? I'm thinking putting a straw in the spark plug hole and watching it while i turn the fan is the easiest way?
Hi Brian. Since your not sure of the service history check and perform the basics. Oil change and filter is a great start and will boost your confidence. Remove the spark plugs and check the gap or replace with new and also check the gap. Look at the air filter. Make sure it’s reasonably clean and there are no surprises such as mice nests. As far as the valve lash the straw will work. Basically a wooden dowel will work also. The thought is whatever you use is soft enough not to damage the top of the piston. I think rotating the fan with the spark plugs removed would be the easiest way to do valve lash. Before doing any valve adjustments practice bringing the motor to top dead centre on the compression stroke. You can then check the clearances to see if they are within specifications. When the valve is closed you should be able to wiggle the rocker arm. If you can’t it’s either the valve is too tight or you are not on the correct spot in the cycle to test. If your having trouble with that I would not try adjusting the valves. It may be over your skill level. It’s not hard to do but you need to understand the process. I would look at some other videos as there are different ways to explain the valve adjustment procedure. I don’t want to scare you but if the valves aren’t adjusted correctly you could cause more problems than you initially had. It’s a finicky job that requires patience to get it right. Sometimes many tries as the gap changes when tightening the lock nut. Allow yourself time and make sure your in the mood to do it, especially the first time. Of course you will need some basic tools but nothing crazy or expensive. The valve lash is important as the valves create vacuum to pull fuel in the engine. There could be other reasons for hard starting but eliminate the basics before chasing the problem down. Fuel pressure is very important. However a manometer is required. A specialty tool. I would check the stuff that I have mentioned and see what happens. A great forum for generator information is at gentekpower.com They have a section for air cooled generators including Generac . Most of the people that post are professionals in the generator business. I hope this helps. Let me know how what you find out. Thanks for checking out the video and posting. Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 Hi Rodger- So this is a little embarrassing. 2 months ago, I did indeed change the oil, plugs, and airfilter myself. Everything was in order and the generator worked will until last week when I noticed the difficulty starting and roughness. Before trying to adjust/measure the valves I took a detailed look at everything and noticed that the plug wire on the rear cylinder had come loose. Once I reattached that- everything ran well again. So, I guess this was the cause of the poor running- a loose plug wire which is my fault!
Maybe next week ill try to measure the valve clearance just to check. I assume that if they were out of adjustment- then the generator wouldn't run well? And thanks for the link :)
@@user-fp5yk5ed3e that’s excellent news that you figured out the problem. It makes sense to always check the basics first and as you can see in your situation it was a basic problem. Checking the valve lash especially on a unit that you have no history is not a bad idea. If it was way out of whack you would have some problems, but it can’t hurt to have a look at it.
I have an older 2004 12 kw Generac Guardian that's air cooled. Not sure what the spark plug gap should be. I'm getting too many different answers. Any help?
Hi Scott Zwierlein. I can help you better with a model number. However based on my findings an educated guess would be .030”. The proper gap is critical to the performance of the generator. A gap that is too wide puts stress on the ignition system. Some service people tend to set the gap slightly smaller as this would not hurt the generator and with a little wear will be spot on. I looked at a wide range of generator sizes. The trend was .030” or .040” plug gap. Another thing to watch out for is the different models use different spark plugs. Generac has a pretty decent web site for information if you don’t have a manual for your particular model. Generac should be able to tell you exactly what you need to set your plug gap. If you give me the model number I can find it also. I hope this helps. Thanks for your question. Roger
All what you did is Maintenance same on 24 KW ?
Mr R If you give me a model number I can check. The procedures would be the same if the valve lash is adjustable. The gap may vary with different models. It’s always important to check to make sure.
How often do you have to adjust valves
Hi eric gibb . If this is a new engine out of the box I would check the valves right away. Quality control isn’t what it used to be. After that I would check them a year later. If there was no change I think you could easily go two or three years before checking again. I base my recommendations on my own personal generator and friends generators that I have serviced.These are generators with low hours. Mostly exercise time an say no more than 4 hours of run time a year. Not very much. If you are putting a ton of hours on every year then I would check them at least once a year. At some point a pattern will form after checking to see what interval of service works for your particular machine and usage. Thanks for checking out the video and posting a question. Roger
I build generators for a living. Also my company that we work for is the number one retailer on Generic on the East Coast.
Why didn't you check the battery?
Hi Nancy Vrabel. Thanks for checking out the video. I like to keep the content of the video as close to the description as possible. Here is a link to a battery video that I did. Thanks. Roger. th-cam.com/video/TqR1rOMQkBc/w-d-xo.html
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 thank you ! I'm going to do my own maintenance on the generator this summer. Your videos are to the point and you have a clear voice with no ums . Well done!
Nancy Vrabel. Thank you for your kind words. Doing your own maintenance is very satisfying. Besides, the money you save is significant. Also I like being independent as much a possible. Take your time, and prepare. It’s not that hard. Good luck. Roger
You prolly won’t appreciate my comment but,,, you should not be telling people, the bolts are 10 mm. The bolts are 6mm. The head of the bolt does not determine bolt size, the major diameter of the thread determines determines bolt size. The Alan wrench for adjusting valve lash is 3/8”, not 1/2”. You only need to remove the top cover, above the fan. You are spending time removing a cover that does not need to be removed. Spark p,Gus’s are cheap and should be replaced after removal because they usually have obvious wear on them and the seal is damaged from being installed. Having said all that, I thought your video was well put together. I think you should add to your video, the valve lash should be checked on a cold engine.
Hi Doug Chauvin. Thanks for taking the time to check out my video and post your comments. I have the factory manual for this generator. You are correct about letting the viewers know that the valve adjustment should be performed on a cool engine. The manual also has a section on adjustment of the valve lash. It states that the wrench size for the jam nut on the 17 kw is 13 mm. (Slightly over 1/2 inch.) I used a 1/2 inch which fit better. I recall when trying to loosen this nut it was really tight and felt if I used the 13 mm wrench I would round off the corners of the nut. The Allen wrench for the pivot ball stud is 10 mm. (Slightly over 3/8 inch) and is what I used. It has been my experience that even though a fastener is metric an imperial size wrench will sometimes work better. I have both imperial and metric wrenches so at the time I would have used the size that fit the best. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. I plan to make changes to the video based on what I’ve said in this post. Roger
I am getting the rpm loss error again. I will check the valves when it's over 60 degrees.
gentekpower.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=3. Hi Ed. Here is a link to a fantastic web site. It is worth a look as there are other reasons for the RPM loss message. Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 Thanks for the link. I am wondering if this is my issue: . The ignition coils have a problem. This could be that they are bad, have contacted the flywheel, etc. The 18 wire sends the RPM signal to the Evolution from the ignition coils. I know I have a good battery since it starts my car with ease. My generac start some of the time usually after multiple attempts. I had it running the other day, but on a manual start....
@@edbrandt8972 This web site also sells parts. It might be worth downloading a repair manual for your unit. I have one for my model. They are well put together. Check out the forum also. I’m confident you will be able diagnose your problem. Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 My educated guess is a bad coil or control board. It looks like I can disconnect wire #18 and see if the starter engages. Then I can test that wire for continuity and test the wire to ground to make sure it is not shorted.
@@edbrandt8972 I would check wire #14. It supplies power to fuel solenoid to open. In the manual it’s test #51. You should have 12 volts when cranking. Wire number #18 grounds the coils to shut down ignition and provides rpm information to controller. On this wire if there is rub thru on the wire it would be grounded. There is a test #59 for this. Another check is a spark plug tester to see if you have spark when cranking. Simple test that gives you some direction. Make sure connections to controller are clean and have not come loose. There are two things that need checking are spark and fuel. Also you need air so a blocked or dirty air filter or a choke plate sticking could cause a problem. An organized approach will save you time. Unless you can confirm a part is defective resist the temptation to throw parts at it. Roger
You should always replace used gaskets. They are cheap, and should always be on hand if you are doing a valve adjustment. They do get brittle, and then take more pressure to seal. Why risk an oil leak to save a few bucks? Otherwise good video.
Hi Rod Graff. Thanks for checking out the video and posting comments. I probably should have explained myself for reusing the gaskets. I agree that they should be changed. The generator was located in Canada, in a small city in northern Ontario. Parts for Generac generators while available are expensive. The gaskets are $ 21.00 each plus shipping. I felt that if there was a leak it would be small and easy to identify as the valve covers are accessible, gaskets could be ordered and replaced. I recall at the time of making the video I checked my favourite generator site called gentekpower.com. located in Michigan. Some of the techs on the site didn’t seem to have an issue with reusing the gaskets on this particular model which surprised me. Thanks again.
Roger
@@repairitdontwreckit4257 Wow, for that price I would have tried to save the gaskets too. I don’t remember where I got mine, but they were no way that expensive. Maybe 4.00 each. Might have been on Amazon.
Hey Rod Graff. The gaskets are reasonable in USA. Depending on where you look the price ranged from $4 to $7 dollars. The gentek site that I mentioned sells parts and we’re one of the lowest prices. I’ve ordered service parts from them when vacationing. Worth a look. Thanks again.
Roger
I looked at another video tonight, and this other generac tech is claiming tdc is immediately after the exhaust valve closes. th-cam.com/video/l5jBU5d7ipA/w-d-xo.html . Quite concerning honestly. I don't have a compression gauge but will need one now..
Hi Eastman Research. I had a look at the video. To be honest with you I don’t really think it really matters. As long as both of the valves are fully closed you should be able to do the valve adjustment. There is a website called GenTechPower .com that provides quality information regarding air cooled generators. The professionals on that site seem to prefer adjusting the valves on the compression stroke on top dead center. Since they do it for a living that’s what I decided to do when I did the video. You can always check it both ways to see if there’s any difference. I have taken a couple of lawnmower engines apart which are basically the same design. As long as you’re checking the valve lash when you’re not on the lift portion of the cam you should get an accurate adjustment. Don’t forget I am not a generator tech. I work on my own generator and friends equipment. Before doing any of the videos I spend a lot of time making sure the information I give is accurate. I’ve done my homework and checking. Valve lash adjustment is not that difficult. If you are not comfortable then have it done for you. You don’t want to make things worse or damage the engine. You can always practice checking the valve lash and not make the actual adjustment. That’s a safe way to start. I hope this helps. Roger
I don't see how you are turning the motor to bring it to top dead center. Is their a crank bolt to turn the motor? You just magically brought the piston to top dead center is somebody else turning the motor for you? My Generac 17 KW doesn't seem to put out the current it use to is there a way to adjust the output? My old control panel burnt out and is no longer made. I had to buy a different control panel which came with an adapter so that it worked on my generator it was after that when the current dropped. My computer won't even consistently run because of the lower current output no problem before. It is a tower with a high wattage power supply. Lights and refrigerators seem to be no problem but like I said the output of the generator has noticeably dropped.
Hey user. Ha. I wish it was magic. It’s been a while. From memory the camera person that was helping me was turning the fan. It is located under the panels covering the muffler. This fan is easy to turn by hand and is attached to the crankshaft. I found this a good spot to rotate the crankshaft to manipulate the piston to the position that I needed for setting the valve lash. As far as your other concerns it is beyond my level of knowledge. Depending on how handy you are there is a service manual for your generator available from Generac and other sellers. I have downloaded one for my generator. It is very well put together. It details the steps to doing electrical diagnostics. You would need to be reasonably proficient at using a multimeter to get the fuel benefit of this purchase. While it is well written it is intended to be understood by an experienced service person. You may want to check out gentekpower.com A generator site. I have visited this site many times. Most of the people there are professionals and post frequently on the forum. They sell parts and the online service manual. I’ve found their stuff generally less expensive than other sites including Generac. The benefit here is the moderator will support the parts he sells. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and posting. Roger
I had to fix my Honeywell/Generac myself others I called were clueless so I had to figure it out myself. The problem for me is my generator is now and odd non-standard Hybrid of older and newer non-standard parts. Thanks I was puzzled how you were turning the motor. Sounds like an easy helpful trick. Unfortunately nobody had the older original control panel. It seems after 10 years Generac stops making replacement parts.@@repairitdontwreckit4257
I always laugh at all the trouble people go there to adjust valves. If one of the two valves is completely down the other can be a adjusted at that time. Top dead? Compression stoke? Funny.
You adjusted those valves all wrong they shouldn’t be equal when you do that you should have one up and one down check in the valves for the thickness
Hi Plow. Thanks for checking out the video and posting comments. It sounds like you have lots of experience with generators. Can you elaborate on why the method of setting valve lash is wrong. Thanks Roger