Thanks for all your videos. I have a question about power injection. Could we use only one Master 12v wire and connect 3 T connectors in total (one at every 200 pixels) for a string of 600 pixels? I tried it but after the first power injection, my 12v wire drop to only 9.6v so I can not power inject the others one T connectors with such low current. So, I think that only one power injection is possible per one 12v wire coming from the power supply. Do i'm right?
If you have a 12v supply with enough Amperage, you can theoretically have a main 12v supply 12v to provide power at the start of the run, inject every 200 pixels (2 tees), and provide power at the end of the run. Some factors that can cause your voltage drops are: wire gauge/size, wire length, and the "brightness" you desire on each pixel. The voltage drops quicker with smaller wire gauge, and longer wire lengths. I hope this helps.
I saw ws2811 string with 50pcs on aliexpress and next to the controller wires, it have red and black wire, so can I add power through that at 100 or 150pcs?
Is there a simple diagram that I can follow as a template. I understand the concept but just can't visualize it. This is my delema. I will be running a f48 with 4 diff receiver's @ 12volts. I will be making my own ends to save on cost. The 1 thing I can't visualize is when it comes to the (T) for injection. If anyone has suggestions that would help. All the info over the web describes how to but not the process.
To be honest, it's really hard to make a "one-size-fits-all diagram" when you potentially have multiple power supplies vs single, etc. I do have diagrams inside of Learn Christmas Lighting Academy (learnchristmaslightingacademy.com/learn-christmas-lighting-academy/ - opening March first for new students). Most of the T's you buy simply have all the wires connected all the way through. So you only connect up the power wires on the "down" part of the T that goes to a distro board. If you're using multiple power supplies you also need to cut off the "+" wire coming from the existing pixels as it hits the T. And last, but not least, with how inexpensive controllers and smart receivers are today, I honestly recommend NOT doing any power injection for most props (matrix's excluded). It's a lot more complexity in initial setup and each year when you setup, all to save only a few dollars. Hope that helps!
@@LearnChristmasLighting Thank you for the feed back. I guess my only concern is that because of budget constraints and my ability to be more of a hands-on project person. I was going to make my own connections. Will keep an eye out for your academy, and also enjoy all of your videos.
So I will be running strings of 300 pixels on a bunch of my props this season. On the front end I will be running the data, positive and ground coming from my F16 which has both sides powered by one 750 HP PSU. On the opposite end of the string of 300 I will be running a power and negative from a completely separate 750 HP PSU that I’m using only for power injection. The way I’m understanding this is that all I have to do is cut and tape off the Positive wire between pixels 150 and 151 to make this work. Is that correct? And since both PSUs are in the same enclosure should I go ahead and connect the grounds together via a short jumper from 1 PSU to the other?
How can I tell what my positive and negative are to my connection that will be going to the end of the string of lights. I have a red white and blue cord. How do I know which is positive and negative?
What I like to do is grab or cut off one of your input cords to your lights. Now you can see the color on the wire, and the markings on your first pixel. Connect that pigtail/input cord to your extension cord. You can then use a simple electrical meter to check "continuity" and find which wire is each. It's pretty simple to do, search TH-cam for videos on it if you're unsure of how to use a multimeter. Definitely a good idea for a video I will do later :)
Sign up for our waitlist here: academy.learnchristmaslighting.com/lcl-academy-waitlist-opt-in-page We open for public registration 4 times per year, and on 6/21 we will open to get you ready for the season!
when u talked bout multiple power supplies , I tried to understand and I kept replaying... if i have "3" 12v power supplies ur sayin to individually power inject where it needs to go and not cross the power supplies together . I would think that runnin a fused busbar could work for power injections I could be wrong .. always lookin for the most effective process
I honestly couldn't tell you. Everything I've ever heard of or read (including outside of the Christmas Light World) has always told me that crossing the positive wire from multiple power supplies is a bad idea and will cause sparks/fire/failure :)
Yep! That's exactly what this video is about - watch carefully, as I show you how you can use or build a "tee" to bring in power and pass through data to new lights!
@@LearnChristmasLighting thank you for the answer, I guess you didnt get me, I understand the power injection you explained on the vídeo, but my question is regarding the data out/in wire, there's any way to inject/buffer power to it? Cuz i lose the data signal about 80 píxels (and I think its for the distance between the ligths)
@@Tomy_Medina Oh, I see what you are asking. So, in this situation, it is FAR from ideal for the WS2811 protocol. What you need to do is make the protocol work for you by putting a single pixel (or 2) spaced out in the "blank space" between lights. So, in that 80 ft, break it up into 2-3 segments with a single pixel or 2 in the middle, and use your sequencing software to count them as a "null pixel", or just tape them with black tape :) A single pixel will re-boost the signal, and it usually can run anywhere from 30-50 feet or more (depending on the controller, the pixels, etc).
It's fine, this is a pretty standard way of hooking up pixels. Remember, this is the same power supply, and DATA is only hooked up to the controller via one end (it IS directional)
Another down to earth explanation. You're awesome
I really appreciate it! Be sure to like and share my videos so that this can grow!
Also let me know here in the comments what your biggest questions are as you begin in this hobby, so I can cover them!
I can’t find those tees / do you have a link
Here is one good place: www.wallyslights.com/collections/power-injection-ts
Thanks for all your videos.
I have a question about power injection. Could we use only one Master 12v wire and connect 3 T connectors in total (one at every 200 pixels) for a string of 600 pixels?
I tried it but after the first power injection, my 12v wire drop to only 9.6v so I can not power inject the others one T connectors with such low current.
So, I think that only one power injection is possible per one 12v wire coming from the power supply.
Do i'm right?
If you have a 12v supply with enough Amperage, you can theoretically have a main 12v supply 12v to provide power at the start of the run, inject every 200 pixels (2 tees), and provide power at the end of the run.
Some factors that can cause your voltage drops are: wire gauge/size, wire length, and the "brightness" you desire on each pixel. The voltage drops quicker with smaller wire gauge, and longer wire lengths. I hope this helps.
I enjoy the videos. This is going to be my first year with pixels. I hope in the future you show some cool sequences in xlights.
Definitely planning to!
I saw ws2811 string with 50pcs on aliexpress and next to the controller wires, it have red and black wire, so can I add power through that at 100 or 150pcs?
Yep, sometimes they do come like this from the factory :)
Is there a simple diagram that I can follow as a template. I understand the concept but just can't visualize it. This is my delema. I will be running a f48 with 4 diff receiver's @ 12volts. I will be making my own ends to save on cost. The 1 thing I can't visualize is when it comes to the (T) for injection. If anyone has suggestions that would help. All the info over the web describes how to but not the process.
Forgot to add that I will have a distro board @ every receiver
To be honest, it's really hard to make a "one-size-fits-all diagram" when you potentially have multiple power supplies vs single, etc. I do have diagrams inside of Learn Christmas Lighting Academy (learnchristmaslightingacademy.com/learn-christmas-lighting-academy/ - opening March first for new students).
Most of the T's you buy simply have all the wires connected all the way through. So you only connect up the power wires on the "down" part of the T that goes to a distro board. If you're using multiple power supplies you also need to cut off the "+" wire coming from the existing pixels as it hits the T.
And last, but not least, with how inexpensive controllers and smart receivers are today, I honestly recommend NOT doing any power injection for most props (matrix's excluded). It's a lot more complexity in initial setup and each year when you setup, all to save only a few dollars.
Hope that helps!
@@LearnChristmasLighting Thank you for the feed back. I guess my only concern is that because of budget constraints and my ability to be more of a hands-on project person. I was going to make my own connections. Will keep an eye out for your academy, and also enjoy all of your videos.
This was helpful, thanks
No problem!
So I will be running strings of 300 pixels on a bunch of my props this season. On the front end I will be running the data, positive and ground coming from my F16 which has both sides powered by one 750 HP PSU. On the opposite end of the string of 300 I will be running a power and negative from a completely separate 750 HP PSU that I’m using only for power injection. The way I’m understanding this is that all I have to do is cut and tape off the Positive wire between pixels 150 and 151 to make this work. Is that correct? And since both PSUs are in the same enclosure should I go ahead and connect the grounds together via a short jumper from 1 PSU to the other?
Yes and yes
How can I tell what my positive and negative are to my connection that will be going to the end of the string of lights.
I have a red white and blue cord. How do I know which is positive and negative?
What I like to do is grab or cut off one of your input cords to your lights. Now you can see the color on the wire, and the markings on your first pixel. Connect that pigtail/input cord to your extension cord. You can then use a simple electrical meter to check "continuity" and find which wire is each. It's pretty simple to do, search TH-cam for videos on it if you're unsure of how to use a multimeter. Definitely a good idea for a video I will do later :)
In the video you talked about a calculator. Do you have the link for it?
Ahh! Missed that: spikerlights.com/calcpower.aspx
How do i sign up in academy?
Sign up for our waitlist here: academy.learnchristmaslighting.com/lcl-academy-waitlist-opt-in-page
We open for public registration 4 times per year, and on 6/21 we will open to get you ready for the season!
Would it be the same process with cheap RGB+12v 4-wire light strips?
Or would I have to run a new controller for every leed?
New controller. there are some "amplifiers' out there for these type of strips, they work okay as well.
when u talked bout multiple power supplies , I tried to understand and I kept replaying... if i have "3" 12v power supplies ur sayin to individually power inject where it needs to go and not cross the power supplies together . I would think that runnin a fused busbar could work for power injections I could be wrong .. always lookin for the most effective process
I honestly couldn't tell you. Everything I've ever heard of or read (including outside of the Christmas Light World) has always told me that crossing the positive wire from multiple power supplies is a bad idea and will cause sparks/fire/failure :)
Thanks for the info, how can you add more poder to the data line? Got ws8211 leds (3 leds per pixel) but they can handle after 60 -80 píxels
Yep! That's exactly what this video is about - watch carefully, as I show you how you can use or build a "tee" to bring in power and pass through data to new lights!
@@LearnChristmasLighting thank you for the answer, I guess you didnt get me, I understand the power injection you explained on the vídeo, but my question is regarding the data out/in wire, there's any way to inject/buffer power to it? Cuz i lose the data signal about 80 píxels (and I think its for the distance between the ligths)
@@Tomy_Medina Oh, I see what you are asking. So, in this situation, it is FAR from ideal for the WS2811 protocol. What you need to do is make the protocol work for you by putting a single pixel (or 2) spaced out in the "blank space" between lights. So, in that 80 ft, break it up into 2-3 segments with a single pixel or 2 in the middle, and use your sequencing software to count them as a "null pixel", or just tape them with black tape :) A single pixel will re-boost the signal, and it usually can run anywhere from 30-50 feet or more (depending on the controller, the pixels, etc).
@@LearnChristmasLighting thank you so much, I will try that, nice work on your channel btw
What about "CURRENT" issues when connecting 1 power supply on both ends of a pixel line?
It's fine, this is a pretty standard way of hooking up pixels. Remember, this is the same power supply, and DATA is only hooked up to the controller via one end (it IS directional)
??????????????!!????????
just plug the lights in