Great - so having watched the whole of video part 1 and 2 - i finally get to the part i needed to see aand he has skipped it all together!! Now to try a nd find a USEFUL video of how to REPAIR the window wood which i thought this was going to show!
Very hard to find a carpenter of this caliber anymore! For decades now, everything has been made to be disposable so it just gets replaced rather than repaired. Because of that, most modern carpenters aren't developing the skills that this man has. Amazing work.
Nice Video, Mitch. Super video series, because there are still people, revise the old window and use not just plastic windows. Looking forward to the continuation. :-)
That's right, Mitch. But many think> plastic windows, which are dense and saves heating costs. " Only that one thereby also the mold gets into the apartment, because no proper exhaust vents exchange occurs which does not consider the People. ;-)
@@johngrannan I disagree. The useful info is knowing how these hundred year old windows were originally put together, because the detail is hidden under a hundred years of paint. Once you have them apart there is nothing that a half decent woodworker should have any problem with.
@@oldbloke135 we obviously arent half decent woodworkers or we wouldnt be watching TH-cam videos, and we could probably afford to pay someone else to fix our windows too.
Good stuff. It would have been great to see what kind of weather stripping he used on the slanted rails. I actually have some old sliding windows that have the same tapered rails that meet, but like he said, they don't seal any more. Love to see how he retrofitted those. Will you be showing that in a later video by chance? Really enjoying this series Mitch.
Thanks Marty, I haven't started to edit the next installment, so I'm not sure if that's included. I'm fairly sure it was a flexible tube, on a spline that fits a narrow channel. If I've got it captured on video, I'll make sure it gets included for you.
Very well documented process from start to finish. Thoroughly enjoyed each series and could not wait to move onto the next... I am familiar with the Mighton product. I do have a question at 7.12 where the "drought seal" was mentioned - which product would this be please? I assume it is the Mighton Weatherstrip but would this be the "Standard" or "Flexible" version please? Many thanks!
Could you advise the best wood to use to replace a bottom rail. I have a large sash window that requires some work and requires a bottom rail replacement. Thannks.
Jim Sears would be the best person to advise on that at Restorative Carpentry, Eastbourne. Personally I would be looking for a tight grained, clear, quarter sawn(ish), piece of deal, poplar, or pine
I'm not sure about linseed paints these days without the lead content which has been replaced with zinc as a mould algae protector its now very prone to mould growth and have stopped using it now the best option nowadays is owatrol oil then on with owatrol deco its the system that last without mould algae growth
A new bottom rail just magically appears? I's great to show that the bottom rail is scrap and needs to be replaced, but it seems like you've completely skipped the most important part of showing how to make, and/or where to buy a replacement bottom rail?
It would have been nice to include making the new one, but there were three guys working on the windows and just me filming, so I couldn't get everything unless I had delayed them a lot. Making the rail really is just copying the profile of the existing and preparing the joints as they were before, so relatively simple for anyone who can accomplish the rest of the repairs.
I found the Mighton plastic parting bead that he refers to in the video for anyone who's I interested www.mightonproducts.com/parting-bead-2-4m-length-white The Fitch sash lock www.rpwindowsandrestoration.com/sash-locks# Here's a link to video #4 of this series th-cam.com/video/_UjS8lmm88Y/w-d-xo.html
Mitch, Thanks for these enjoyable lessons on sash and window restoration. The sash man is a real gem!
Cheers Allen. Jim was great to work with - knew his stuff, and not phased by camera.
Great - so having watched the whole of video part 1 and 2 - i finally get to the part i needed to see aand he has skipped it all together!! Now to try a nd find a USEFUL video of how to REPAIR the window wood which i thought this was going to show!
Very hard to find a carpenter of this caliber anymore! For decades now, everything has been made to be disposable so it just gets replaced rather than repaired. Because of that, most modern carpenters aren't developing the skills that this man has.
Amazing work.
Jim has so much knowledge!!!!
Nice Video, Mitch.
Super video series, because there are still people, revise the old window and use not just plastic windows. Looking forward to the continuation. :-)
Thanks Günter. You're right, and I hope it encourages more people to save the old windows, rather than replace with plastic.
That's right, Mitch.
But many think> plastic windows, which are dense and saves heating costs. "
Only that one thereby also the mold gets into the apartment, because no proper exhaust vents exchange occurs which does not consider the People. ;-)
wonderful and complex system, I enjoy a lot, this series.
Thanks Daniel!
This series is wonderful, thank you
I wish this one taped him actually make the repairs that he shows
justtisha Absolutely agree - that’s the really clever bit! 😕
@@johngrannan I disagree. The useful info is knowing how these hundred year old windows were originally put together, because the detail is hidden under a hundred years of paint. Once you have them apart there is nothing that a half decent woodworker should have any problem with.
@@oldbloke135 we obviously arent half decent woodworkers or we wouldnt be watching TH-cam videos, and we could probably afford to pay someone else to fix our windows too.
Very interesting stuff Mitch. Especially for myself as a confirmed original sash fan :-) Now I know where to start in refurbing my windows :-)
Cheers! Jim is writing an ebook on the subject, so you might want to keep an eye out for that.
Fabulously educational thank you
Good stuff. It would have been great to see what kind of weather stripping he used on the slanted rails. I actually have some old sliding windows that have the same tapered rails that meet, but like he said, they don't seal any more. Love to see how he retrofitted those. Will you be showing that in a later video by chance?
Really enjoying this series Mitch.
Thanks Marty, I haven't started to edit the next installment, so I'm not sure if that's included. I'm fairly sure it was a flexible tube, on a spline that fits a narrow channel. If I've got it captured on video, I'll make sure it gets included for you.
Well, if you do have it, that would be fantastic because as I said, I have the exact same scenario (except my windows are sliders). Thanks Mitch.
Very well documented process from start to finish. Thoroughly enjoyed each series and could not wait to move onto the next... I am familiar with the Mighton product. I do have a question at 7.12 where the "drought seal" was mentioned - which product would this be please? I assume it is the Mighton Weatherstrip but would this be the "Standard" or "Flexible" version please? Many thanks!
You can contact Jim Sear at Restorative Carpentry, Pevensey Bay, Eastbourne.
Nice to watch !!!
A costly affair I do not doubt !!
Labour intensive
I’d like to learn this trade !!!
Cheers. Cheaper than new uPVC windows, and apparently will last longer
Its a big job!
Almost as much as starting from scratch!
Master Craftsman!
What species of wood did you use to replace the rotten wood?
I believe Jim used old pine to match the existing.
Could you advise the best wood to use to replace a bottom rail. I have a large sash window that requires some work and requires a bottom rail replacement. Thannks.
Jim Sears would be the best person to advise on that at Restorative Carpentry, Eastbourne.
Personally I would be looking for a tight grained, clear, quarter sawn(ish), piece of deal, poplar, or pine
Thank you. Great set of videos. Very informative and instills confidence to have a go. Best of luck going forward.
Where can I find mitan seal?
Sorry that's not my specialty. You could try Jim direct - details in the description of one of the series videos I'm sure.
I'm not sure about linseed paints these days without the lead content which has been replaced with zinc as a mould algae protector its now very prone to mould growth and have stopped using it now the best option nowadays is owatrol oil then on with owatrol deco its the system that last without mould algae growth
Useful to know, thanks
A new bottom rail just magically appears? I's great to show that the bottom rail is scrap and needs to be replaced, but it seems like you've completely skipped the most important part of showing how to make, and/or where to buy a replacement bottom rail?
It would have been nice to include making the new one, but there were three guys working on the windows and just me filming, so I couldn't get everything unless I had delayed them a lot. Making the rail really is just copying the profile of the existing and preparing the joints as they were before, so relatively simple for anyone who can accomplish the rest of the repairs.
But you didn't show how to balance the weights and tacking the cords!
This is episode 3 of 7.
That's one of those jobs that the professionals make it look relatively easy but it's far from that.
They do. They also make it look quick. That's practice for you.
What happened to the repairs???
As far as I know they lived happily ever after
I found the Mighton plastic parting bead that he refers to in the video for anyone who's I interested
www.mightonproducts.com/parting-bead-2-4m-length-white
The Fitch sash lock www.rpwindowsandrestoration.com/sash-locks#
Here's a link to video #4 of this series th-cam.com/video/_UjS8lmm88Y/w-d-xo.html
Nice work Ms. Adonna, thanks from Chicago, Il. U.S.A.!