These are by far the best astrophotography videos on TH-cam. You explain so well, step-by-step for those of us who are new to this field of photography. Thank you!!
Hi. Nice photo and edit. It certainly demands a lot of work and you were very sincere to make not a very long video. Seriously, this could have been hours. Thanks for the great share. 👏
An excellent video. In the past i had used Tamron 15-30 on Nikon D850 and it is good. One of the things that i am looking at is using the Zeiss 12 mm on APSC camera and this lens is also awesome. The post processing is cool . The panorama is good. Nice work ...
Really good video mate. Only part I do not like to do with panos is filling in corners, because it's just fake stars isn't it. But easily fixed to get you out of a situation if you didn't take enough frames etc.
Yeah I mentioned that it was unfortunate - I wasn’t planning for it but that’s the solution if you wanna salvage the photo. Next time I will shoot a larger margin for sure!
Thanks Kamil, some great information in this series. I have a request for a third installment along the lines of 'composition tips for tracking and blending'. I can nail the foreground. I can get a good tracking shot, but... I find that I'm shooting several tracked shots and getting to much rotation from the tracker and usually almost over the top of my foreground object to get good stars. So, when I go to blend I'm missing good stars from the horizon line to the top of the object on each side of the object. I guess what I'm saying is I need some tips in the compositional use of a tracker for use with a blended foreground. In some locations there isn't a good opportunity to shoot a clear tracked sky devoid of a foreground to the composite in a foreground, and I'd just as soon shoot the sky and the foreground from one set up, yet allow for tracker rotation and blending in post. Reset to level between each tracked shot or ...?
Hi, as I live in Scotland, having a higher latitude, and using a 35mm lens, I would need to do at least 2 rows, perhaps even 3 rows of portrait style frames to get the full arc in to then edit. Should I start from the top left to right on the top row, then right to left in the middle row, before finishing with left to right on the bottom row so I get the galactic core in the bottom right of the frame?
You should always start from the part that will be sinking into the horizon the soonest. So if I remember correctly that’s the bottom-right frame on the northern hemisphere
Kamil, Excellent tutorial....I just bought a tracker to go try out the pano, as per your instructions. As you are shooting the pano, to do disengage the clutch, and manually align the camera with the horizon again for the next panel. I assume as time goes on the camera will be pointing more and more up, and soon you wont be able to see the horizon in the phone. So do you manually adjust the camera down, before shooting each panel??
Hi Kamil, two great videos. I really appreciated the tips on increasing the contrast in the camera to get a better idea of what you're looking at. Have you compared panoramas from fish-eye to rectilinear images? Do you have an opinion on which is best?
Thanks Mike! I actually do not own a fisheye lens so I haven’t tried it but I think the final image would look even more distorted. I might rent one to try it out though - thanks for the idea.
Getting yourself in this means you can show all your family and friends and feel soo good! These two parts are so nice to learn and then it's my time next year which I'm planning. This video is my future reference. It's all thanks to your star tracker and I hope you had fun! Yes Mars is bright in the night sky while Jupiter and Saturn are low down setting earlier now. Hopefully next year will be better for us all as right now cases of this virus are so high. To let you know I've got the coowoo lens warmer you recently uploaded video on it and I'm glad I've got it. No more fogged up lenses and no fogged up telescope lens as I don't need to worry now. I hope you do more videos with your star adventurer as that would be great! Stay safe my friend!
I don't know why, but I've experienced that if I enable profile corrections, LR is unable to stitch together a panorama. When I disable the corrections, no problem.
After you spend days masterfully blending a bunch of photos, do people try to replicate it by holding their phone and pointing it at the night sky and wonder why theirs doesn't look like yours?
Cool technique but a bit too much sci-fi for my taste. The content aware fill for the corners ruined it. Half of the image you end up with, is not ...real.
Yeah like I said I wasn’t happy about it either but you can learn from my mistake and get more coverage when shooting so you don’t need to „fill” anything
These are by far the best astrophotography videos on TH-cam. You explain so well, step-by-step for those of us who are new to this field of photography. Thank you!!
Hi. Nice photo and edit. It certainly demands a lot of work and you were very sincere to make not a very long video. Seriously, this could have been hours. Thanks for the great share. 👏
Thanks, I appreciate that!
Good job Kamil ! Great result. Thanks for tips
You’re welcome!
Owesome mate, thanks for the tips!
Very precise information ! gonna try it out when the curfew will end :D Keep up the good work !!!
Świetny film. Dzięki za poradnik, bardzo dobrze zrobiony, na pewno nie raz do niego wrócę
An excellent video. In the past i had used Tamron 15-30 on Nikon D850 and it is good. One of the things that i am looking at is using the Zeiss 12 mm on APSC camera and this lens is also awesome. The post processing is cool . The panorama is good. Nice work ...
Really good video mate. Only part I do not like to do with panos is filling in corners, because it's just fake stars isn't it. But easily fixed to get you out of a situation if you didn't take enough frames etc.
Yeah I mentioned that it was unfortunate - I wasn’t planning for it but that’s the solution if you wanna salvage the photo. Next time I will shoot a larger margin for sure!
@@kamilkp yeah its amazing how many extra you need to cover corners
Thanks Kamil, some great information in this series. I have a request for a third installment along the lines of 'composition tips for tracking and blending'. I can nail the foreground. I can get a good tracking shot, but... I find that I'm shooting several tracked shots and getting to much rotation from the tracker and usually almost over the top of my foreground object to get good stars. So, when I go to blend I'm missing good stars from the horizon line to the top of the object on each side of the object. I guess what I'm saying is I need some tips in the compositional use of a tracker for use with a blended foreground. In some locations there isn't a good opportunity to shoot a clear tracked sky devoid of a foreground to the composite in a foreground, and I'd just as soon shoot the sky and the foreground from one set up, yet allow for tracker rotation and blending in post. Reset to level between each tracked shot or ...?
Yeah I believe you could reset the RA axis position to be level with relation to the horizon before each shot. PTGui should be able to stitch it
좋은 강의 감사드립니다. ^^
Hi, as I live in Scotland, having a higher latitude, and using a 35mm lens, I would need to do at least 2 rows, perhaps even 3 rows of portrait style frames to get the full arc in to then edit. Should I start from the top left to right on the top row, then right to left in the middle row, before finishing with left to right on the bottom row so I get the galactic core in the bottom right of the frame?
You should always start from the part that will be sinking into the horizon the soonest. So if I remember correctly that’s the bottom-right frame on the northern hemisphere
@@kamilkp many thanks.
I more thing if that’s ok, with ptgui, is it worth going for the pro version or the normal version?
Kamil, Excellent tutorial....I just bought a tracker to go try out the pano, as per your instructions. As you are shooting the pano, to do disengage the clutch, and manually align the camera with the horizon again for the next panel. I assume as time goes on the camera will be pointing more and more up, and soon you wont be able to see the horizon in the phone. So do you manually adjust the camera down, before shooting each panel??
Typically readjusting that once per panorama row is enough
Thanks for the processing tips, is Lumenzia a free tool for photoshop?
It is not free but it’s very powerful!
Hi Kamil, two great videos. I really appreciated the tips on increasing the contrast in the camera to get a better idea of what you're looking at. Have you compared panoramas from fish-eye to rectilinear images? Do you have an opinion on which is best?
Thanks Mike! I actually do not own a fisheye lens so I haven’t tried it but I think the final image would look even more distorted. I might rent one to try it out though - thanks for the idea.
Getting yourself in this means you can show all your family and friends and feel soo good! These two parts are so nice to learn and then it's my time next year which I'm planning. This video is my future reference. It's all thanks to your star tracker and I hope you had fun! Yes Mars is bright in the night sky while Jupiter and Saturn are low down setting earlier now. Hopefully next year will be better for us all as right now cases of this virus are so high. To let you know I've got the coowoo lens warmer you recently uploaded video on it and I'm glad I've got it. No more fogged up lenses and no fogged up telescope lens as I don't need to worry now. I hope you do more videos with your star adventurer as that would be great! Stay safe my friend!
Thanks, I’m very glad you like them. Staying safe, avoing the crowds and staring at the sky - as always! Stay safe too!
Do you use a guide scope with your star adventurer?
I’m not but I’m planning on getting one soon
I don't know why, but I've experienced that if I enable profile corrections, LR is unable to stitch together a panorama. When I disable the corrections, no problem.
Turn on subtitles. Thank you
how do you take 160 seconds exposure?, my camera only goes to 60 seconds, even in bulb mode
In bulb you can use an external intervalometer to take as long of an exposure as you wish
@@kamilkp i did, even when i set my intervelometer to anything above 1 minute it still stops at 1 minute
@fadi-safar well you must be doing something wrong. Maybe the intervalometer is set incorrectly. Or maybe it’s broken
After you spend days masterfully blending a bunch of photos, do people try to replicate it by holding their phone and pointing it at the night sky and wonder why theirs doesn't look like yours?
Cool technique but a bit too much sci-fi for my taste. The content aware fill for the corners ruined it. Half of the image you end up with, is not ...real.
Yeah like I said I wasn’t happy about it either but you can learn from my mistake and get more coverage when shooting so you don’t need to „fill” anything