Very good and detailed video, thank you. : - Would it take more strokes if I had a straight grinded knife? Because then there are not just these thin "rails" and so there is a much bigger surface of steel that needs to be removed.
Nice Vid Nic thanks for taking the time again. Going to try starting at 3k grit off the wheel tomorrow as I have a few to grind with that awesome jig of yours
Love those Mora sloyd knives, regardless of the sharpening method. My 120 is a near-perfect carving knife. I think it took me a total of 10 minutes to go from the (already sharp) stock edge to “slices through mahogany like butter”...and I use the factory grind. So I’m sure a hollow makes touch ups stupid fast.
Very informative video. Is it possible to glue the self-adhesive paper straight on MDF? You also argue around the rounding effect that have bothered me for a long time. When completely rookie, I ordered thick hard hide and used the sued side up. I started suspecting that it was counter productive... I guess that this also make it an argument that one should rather use the hard side of a stropping hide, even if it is harder to make the compound stick.. Hmm.. now I will try to use my Chromium Oxide paste straight on MDF. Again, Thanks :)
Hands down the best sharpening 'system' I've ever used for ANY bladed instrument are hard natural stones. I used to sell them myself (only to customers who bought my knives), and to this day don't use anything else. Whether it be the Apache stones (strata, red, black gila, etc), or natural jasper/jade...they will all work exceptionally as they are harder than even the hardest steel produced today. The grit you apply to them is the grit you get for pretty much ever. Currently I use ancient ocean jasper from Gabriel at www.youtube.com/@NaturalWhetstoneSharpening . This stone sets the initial bevels (as in, never even had an edge before) on the knives and razors I make using the coarse side (applied with a used DMT extra-extra coarse)...which for kitchen knives provides the perfect finish after stropping. It's literally mirror, but still has 'tooth' for cutting proteins and vegetables. My carving knives I will bevel set on the coarse side, then finish off on the fine side (applied with a WELL used DMT coarse diasharp). This is done without slurry...just a splash of water. The only drawback is the stone will load up with swarf from the cuttings...but a quick wire brushing, or running the DMT over it again brings it right back to like new. I haven't used another stone since I bought it, for literally anything. For inside work on curved knives, I use a ceramic rod (that I can again set the coarseness of with a DMT), for which I made a leather sleeve for stropping and protection.
For glass I go to flea markets and buy a bunch of cheap small ugly picture frames, making sure its thicker glass. I glue it to some flattened scrap wood to reinforce (making sure there are no air gaps) and voila.
Doesn't work on my sloyd from you. The edge just wrinkles unless I put a micro convex on it. I tried again after watching this series, but it happened again. Currently trying to strop it out but I may have to go back to the stones.
@@daniel_miller Cool- lets see what it turns out to be may be relevant to the jig, may not, could be that it is an issue with the steel, my instinct is that the edge is just too fine now, but that is just speculation, over to email.
![BABYMONSTER - 'DRIP' M/V REACTION [WAS NOT EXPECTING THIS!!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t0Lpgr1jo3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
Very good and detailed video, thank you.
:
- Would it take more strokes if I had a straight grinded knife? Because then there are not just these thin "rails" and so there is a much bigger surface of steel that needs to be removed.
Love it. If you need rough(ish) leather backing to stop, you need to take at good hard look at what you on your stones.
Nice Vid Nic thanks for taking the time again. Going to try starting at 3k grit off the wheel tomorrow as I have a few to grind with that awesome jig of yours
Love those Mora sloyd knives, regardless of the sharpening method. My 120 is a near-perfect carving knife. I think it took me a total of 10 minutes to go from the (already sharp) stock edge to “slices through mahogany like butter”...and I use the factory grind. So I’m sure a hollow makes touch ups stupid fast.
Great video Nic. “Scary sharp system” is my new tongue twister 😊
And I could have edited out so easily, but once you start it is hard to know where to stop!
Very informative video. Is it possible to glue the self-adhesive paper straight on MDF? You also argue around the rounding effect that have bothered me for a long time. When completely rookie, I ordered thick hard hide and used the sued side up. I started suspecting that it was counter productive... I guess that this also make it an argument that one should rather use the hard side of a stropping hide, even if it is harder to make the compound stick.. Hmm.. now I will try to use my Chromium Oxide paste straight on MDF. Again, Thanks :)
Wow! That's so cool! Absolutely loved it! Thanks for sharing! =D
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Hands down the best sharpening 'system' I've ever used for ANY bladed instrument are hard natural stones. I used to sell them myself (only to customers who bought my knives), and to this day don't use anything else. Whether it be the Apache stones (strata, red, black gila, etc), or natural jasper/jade...they will all work exceptionally as they are harder than even the hardest steel produced today. The grit you apply to them is the grit you get for pretty much ever. Currently I use ancient ocean jasper from Gabriel at www.youtube.com/@NaturalWhetstoneSharpening . This stone sets the initial bevels (as in, never even had an edge before) on the knives and razors I make using the coarse side (applied with a used DMT extra-extra coarse)...which for kitchen knives provides the perfect finish after stropping. It's literally mirror, but still has 'tooth' for cutting proteins and vegetables. My carving knives I will bevel set on the coarse side, then finish off on the fine side (applied with a WELL used DMT coarse diasharp). This is done without slurry...just a splash of water. The only drawback is the stone will load up with swarf from the cuttings...but a quick wire brushing, or running the DMT over it again brings it right back to like new. I haven't used another stone since I bought it, for literally anything.
For inside work on curved knives, I use a ceramic rod (that I can again set the coarseness of with a DMT), for which I made a leather sleeve for stropping and protection.
i got scrathces on my mora 106. What to do? :(
For glass I go to flea markets and buy a bunch of cheap small ugly picture frames, making sure its thicker glass. I glue it to some flattened scrap wood to reinforce (making sure there are no air gaps) and voila.
Thanks Nic.
Doesn't work on my sloyd from you. The edge just wrinkles unless I put a micro convex on it. I tried again after watching this series, but it happened again. Currently trying to strop it out but I may have to go back to the stones.
Daniel- although I am doing this video, my blades are an entirely different business to Hewn and Hone- can you email me and I will sort it out?
@@nicwestermann4206 sure thing. Feel free to delete my comment. I definitely don't won't to hurt your business
@@daniel_miller Cool- lets see what it turns out to be may be relevant to the jig, may not, could be that it is an issue with the steel, my instinct is that the edge is just too fine now, but that is just speculation, over to email.