Nicely done! Just wanted to note for your viewers that you are using a 6mm felling presser foot, as these also come in 4mm which is preferable for thinner fabrics. Cheers mate!
I was surely inspired by this video as I prepare to make my first hammock tarp! I have collected several old sewing machines and accessories over the last year or so, and I found a metal rolled hem foot that turned out to be just like the felling foot if you remove the metal curl on top that rolls the fabric over. I removed that curl and shortened the bar that you show sliding beneath the flap with a Dremel tool cutting wheel, since it was too long for this purpose. It worked like a charm. I gave up on messing with the rolled hem foot, so no loss there. Thanks for a great tutorial.
thanks for sharing..in the past ive always made a French seam and sewed it flat for the same look. but this looks way easier to make straight and i like how its rolled over each other.
Using your folding technique, you don't really need that special foot. It could be done with careful use of a regular foot. The way you've done the seam, you get both stitch lines on the inside and outside of the fabric. With the usual flat felled seam technique, you only get the double stitch line on one side of the fabric.
Art Lee well we can only really use the reference to be precise and its iso standard LSC ISO 2.04.06 because different countries use different names for the same thing. Some call it lapped some flat felled, but flat felled has the highest search hit so that why i named the video this way.
My understanding is this is a true flat felled seam. Used on jeans. When I took my Levi's apart this was the seam used. Flat felled. Mock flat felled is where wright to wright is together and stitched and seam is pressed open. One side is trimmed down and the other is folded over that one. There's also faux flat felled using serged seam.
Correct it is (also) called a lapped seam and not a full felled seam, not correct that it is more waterproof as the more stitches on the outside is worse for waterproofing. That's not to say the doubke stitched lapped seam isn't good enough, but its not a felled seam.
Hello. Can this seam be used on a sleeve ( down the length of it ) as the only seam or does it need to be sewn open and then closed up with a second seam ? I'm looking to make a dry top and pant set for kayaking and the fewer seams the better . I feel the fold of the seam is one of the more water tight seams. I also plan to seal the inside of the seam with seam tape or shoe goo. Thank you for your time and your videos.
RONNIEJNZN so in thoeory yes it could and would be ideal but it is very difficult to use on fabrics that do not crease like silnylon also if you are using a sewing pattern they are worked out with a particular seam in mind for sizing to you would need to follow the pattern.
I go with sealer to be on the safe side, but it depends on so many factors like tension of the fabric the thread type the material and the stitches per inch.
+Tac Blades I'm about to redo my tent from better material and my sleeping bag I told you about and before I was just ironing them together with that heat and seal tape stuff you have never seen sowing like mine if you can call it that lol.
I am generally distrustful of unsealed seams, and certainly not confident that I can make this water tight felled seam. How would you recommend sealing it for tent material?
Hi There, great video I’m new to sewing but have invested in a Hex12 kit silpoly from RSTBR. I’m going to cut the pattern and the cat cuts soon and need to decide how to sew the ridge line. I have been practicing on bits of ripstop so far. Do you think I should I try to use the felling foot on the ridge line.Do you think using the felling foot will do a better job?
There is an easier way - press down as you did a 6 ill fold and attach the other panel under the fold. As a standard, cut the other 3/8 shorter. thread line will fall at the seam line.
Is the use of that foot absolutely necessary if you just line it up with a keen eye? Also, I’ve been wanting to know how this stitch is done so thanks.
I don't really understand what the purpose of the specific foot in this application is. Is it just used to guide the fabric more precisely? I don't see what the purpose of lifting the flap of fabric over the foot does. It's not like the rolled hem foot that actually catches and rolls the fabric. Couldn't this seam be done just as easily with a standard foot?
I am making a tarp for my hammock out of rip-stop nylon, and I like how you did this video! Can you iron the rip-stop? Your process looks easier than others.
Nice video, it shows nicely how the flat felled seam is actually interlocking the fabrics. However, I imagine it to be a bitch when you're trying it to do on long seams and with fabrics like silnylon. At least I can't see how I would have done the 3m seam on my silnylon tarp that way.
Yes more difficult on fabrics that do not crease, the sil poly fabrics are great even the light weight ones like xenon. The length of the seam is not a problem its the fabric type that is key, ultralight silnylon is very difficult.
All of these videos are nice, but not one of them demonstrate on a long pant leg - am I missing something ? *sorry new to sewing and have sewed back regular seams, but encountered a seem like in the video that I’m having trouble controlling and making neat while sewing back*. Cheers.
Great tip! But he's using a crisp fabric that takes a nice crease. Here's a variation that works with even the slickest, lightest fabrics that won't take a crease. The secret is a 12mm (1/2 in) double sided basting tape. You'll need one with a strong glue. Step 1 is to stick the tape along the edge of one of the sides. Take your time - doing this accurately is 90% of the job. Step 2 is to progressively peel the backing paper and stick the other side on top, overlapping the first side by 12 mm. It doesn't matter too much if small edges of tape stick out from the fabric as they will be folded into the seam. The tape holds the slippery fabric in place for the length of the seam and provides some stiffness to help the dogs feed smoothly. It also forms a well defined flap, which makes it far easier to sew. From then on, follow the procedure in the video. Be sure to fold the flap to the side that covers the fabric edges inside the seam. The tape makes it easy to feed the flap into the felling foot. On my setup, I had to swing the needle around 4mm into the seam to take it away from the edge. I used a quality titanium needle. It gets a bit sticky with the glue from the tape, but the thread was still feeding freely through the eye. Some people like to lubricate the needle with soap, but I haven't found the need. With a bit of practice I'm getting results that are actually cleaner than a certain well known cottage maker! Far too slow to be commercially viable, but for MYOG it's well worth the effort to get a true felled seam that's going to be significantly stronger and more waterproof than the faux seams which leave you with stitches through just two layers of fabric.. The result is a seam with a little bit of stiffness, which is probably no bad thing for the ridge of a tarp. As an added bonus the glue seems to help waterproof the seam.
Thats a smart trick, even without the foot the hooked fold is what I really needed to know for making a seam on a kite. 👍
Nicely done! Just wanted to note for your viewers that you are using a 6mm felling presser foot, as these also come in 4mm which is preferable for thinner fabrics.
Cheers mate!
Amazing thanks for your upload
I was surely inspired by this video as I prepare to make my first hammock tarp! I have collected several old sewing machines and accessories over the last year or so, and I found a metal rolled hem foot that turned out to be just like the felling foot if you remove the metal curl on top that rolls the fabric over. I removed that curl and shortened the bar that you show sliding beneath the flap with a Dremel tool cutting wheel, since it was too long for this purpose. It worked like a charm. I gave up on messing with the rolled hem foot, so no loss there. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Lynn Clark great idea thanks for watching
Wow that is as straight as the ripstop. Great videos, your the first from the uk that i have seen to make some really good gear!!
Many thanks for watching :)
You're right, everyone else seems to be from the usa
Thanks. I learned something again today on this foot and how to use it. You're the Best Teacher around.
Danny Walker thanks for the kind comments :)
Welcome.
Very ingenious, thanks!
Love your tutorials. That seam looks amazing. Thanks!
Theball Player thanks
thanks for sharing..in the past ive always made a French seam and sewed it flat for the same look. but this looks way easier to make straight and i like how its rolled over each other.
Will make a test tarp to see how waterproof it is :=
Excellent video. Clear and to the point. Must give this a go. Thanks for sharing. Ian.
No worries thanks for watching :)
You make it look so easy lol. I still have not tried my hand at sewing yet. Nice job 🖒👍
Cheers, go for it take the plunge :) very handy skill for repairs :)
Using your folding technique, you don't really need that special foot. It could be done with careful use of a regular foot. The way you've done the seam, you get both stitch lines on the inside and outside of the fabric. With the usual flat felled seam technique, you only get the double stitch line on one side of the fabric.
thanks for this - this is what you need to alter shirts (but apparently it works for tents too)
Its the seam on tents and tarp ridge line, very strong, used commercially, if done right can be very watertight without sealing.
Sounds awesome :)
Tac Blades This was the seam I used to join the linen when we refabriced G-ASCZ in the late 70's. Used by mothers hand operated Singer 🌞
Looks good! Just wonder if I can pull it off on an actual project with a ton of awkward material to manage, corners, etc.
Did you pull it off?
That's how it's done when the seam is straight Very difficult to do it this way on a curved seam.
Yes thats true
You’re great. Why aren’t all videos like this?
What you sewed is actually a lapped seam not a flat felled seam. The end result is actually a more water tight seam. Looked real good.
Art Lee well we can only really use the reference to be precise and its iso standard LSC ISO 2.04.06 because different countries use different names for the same thing. Some call it lapped some flat felled, but flat felled has the highest search hit so that why i named the video this way.
My understanding is this is a true flat felled seam. Used on jeans. When I took my Levi's apart this was the seam used. Flat felled.
Mock flat felled is where wright to wright is together and stitched and seam is pressed open. One side is trimmed down and the other is folded over that one. There's also faux flat felled using serged seam.
Correct it is (also) called a lapped seam and not a full felled seam, not correct that it is more waterproof as the more stitches on the outside is worse for waterproofing. That's not to say the doubke stitched lapped seam isn't good enough, but its not a felled seam.
Hello. Can this seam be used on a sleeve ( down the length of it ) as the only seam or does it need to be sewn open and then closed up with a second seam ? I'm looking to make a dry top and pant set for kayaking and the fewer seams the better . I feel the fold of the seam is one of the more water tight seams. I also plan to seal the inside of the seam with seam tape or shoe goo. Thank you for your time and your videos.
RONNIEJNZN so in thoeory yes it could and would be ideal but it is very difficult to use on fabrics that do not crease like silnylon also if you are using a sewing pattern they are worked out with a particular seam in mind for sizing to you would need to follow the pattern.
Brilliant! Thanks for making this video.
Awesome video - thanks for posting! :D
Handy little foot attachment.
J.P. Stone very handy :)
Thanks you ! Short, clear and usefull👌🏼
Is the seam completely waterproof, or do I need seam sealer?
I go with sealer to be on the safe side, but it depends on so many factors like tension of the fabric the thread type the material and the stitches per inch.
@@TacBlades Thank you.
Excellent I will need to practice that.
:)
Where did you get that presser foot?
how would you do the other side if you are making this into a bag?
I would not use this for a bag, but a faux felled seam or a french seam for easier construction.
What is the foot for, exactly? Unless it's just there to ensure you have a nice straight line with even edges?
It guides the pre fold before it goes under the needed and ensures the stitches are a specific distance from the edges.
@@TacBlades Great! thank you. I'm designing my first shelter right now and haven't sewed this type of seam before. Thanks for the help!
@@IPv6Freely its really not easy for slippery fabric, i would not use it on long runs, i would use like a french faux seam and use seamsealer.
@@IPv6Freely you may find this vid when i made a shelter useful maybe some lessons to learn th-cam.com/video/xQkidYteMik/w-d-xo.html
Why do u need that foot wouldnt it bee the same if you didnt put the fabric up in the foot?
Yes but it aligns the folds and makes sure your stitching is right on the edge and goes through all the layers every time.
Thank you! Exactly what I needed to know.
Pat Davis welcome :)
Bravo! Well done
Thanks for sharing that little tip that will be very usefull :)
No problem :)
+Tac Blades I'm about to redo my tent from better material and my sleeping bag I told you about and before I was just ironing them together with that heat and seal tape stuff you have never seen sowing like mine if you can call it that lol.
Lol this foot might help a lot, it just guides the fabric no wandering about :)
Great vid. Can you please do a vid demonstrating full flat felled zipper seams? Thank you
What is that foot doing that is different than a regular foot?
It has a small edge which guides the fabric to you can sew precisely to edge or fold.
Brilliant
Same technique works great for rolled hems too :)
I am generally distrustful of unsealed seams, and certainly not confident that I can make this water tight felled seam. How would you recommend sealing it for tent material?
Just use a seam sealer from silnet :)
Were you able to get this done on a catenary curve?
gaiusII I never get curve my main seem only the edges so i am not sure might be tricky
Hi There, great video I’m new to sewing but have invested in a Hex12 kit silpoly from RSTBR. I’m going to cut the pattern and the cat cuts soon and need to decide how to sew the ridge line. I have been practicing on bits of ripstop so far. Do you think I should I try to use the felling foot on the ridge line.Do you think using the felling foot will do a better job?
Dogsdoodas its really about what you prefer just practice on scrap fabric and see what you like best.
What temperature was the iron?
Very low, if you are worried you can use brown paper on top to prevent any scorch.
Great, now I just need the foot .
There is an easier way - press down as you did a 6 ill fold and attach the other panel under the fold. As a standard, cut the other 3/8 shorter. thread line will fall at the seam line.
Is the use of that foot absolutely necessary if you just line it up with a keen eye? Also, I’ve been wanting to know how this stitch is done so thanks.
Antoni K no its not necessary, but i had it already with the printer, it helps of you have to sew 3m long runs like a ridgeline on a tarp.
Where can I buy this foot?
Your local fabric store or amazon but need to get the right one for your machine.
What kind of thread are you using?
I usually use guttermanns monofilament tera 80
well done friend,nice detailed
thanks for showing
atb
steve
No problem thanks for watching
Nice!
Great video. I just completed a Hex12 tarp using silpoly from RSTBR. Have you tried ironing silpoly?
Yes seems to iron quite well on a low temp, i put a scrap cotton fabric on top of the silpoly and iron on top :)
could you do a video of the Naturehike in wet and windy conditions? I might buy one you see
I have no plans to do that at the moment too busy with other projects. :)
No worries, im going to buy one and do the mods you did to yours and add a Aluminium tube to brace the joint which fractures.
I don't really understand what the purpose of the specific foot in this application is. Is it just used to guide the fabric more precisely? I don't see what the purpose of lifting the flap of fabric over the foot does. It's not like the rolled hem foot that actually catches and rolls the fabric. Couldn't this seam be done just as easily with a standard foot?
It can be done without the foot, I just tried it today and it works fine, just make sure that you keep the line straight! :)
I think it's just just to keep the lap together for the first side. Second side it's just a guide.
Can you give the name of that foot again. I can't seem to find one. Many Thanks.
Mark Hazelden its a felling foot :)
Duh, Thanks. I was trying to make it a different name due to your accent.
I am making a tarp for my hammock out of rip-stop nylon, and I like how you did this video! Can you iron the rip-stop? Your process looks easier than others.
Earl Schultz yes but only with polyester as it holds a crease but silnylon doesnt so would use a different seam.
OK, thanks!
Great! Thank you!
Thanks a lot!
Nice video, it shows nicely how the flat felled seam is actually interlocking the fabrics. However, I imagine it to be a bitch when you're trying it to do on long seams and with fabrics like silnylon. At least I can't see how I would have done the 3m seam on my silnylon tarp that way.
Yes more difficult on fabrics that do not crease, the sil poly fabrics are great even the light weight ones like xenon.
The length of the seam is not a problem its the fabric type that is key, ultralight silnylon is very difficult.
Researching to make my 1st tarp found this. Absolutely love it. Now, is a 6mm ridgeline on a tarp (or rolled hems) a bit fragile??
I go with 2cm on my seams for tarps rolled hem and 1.5cm for ridgeline, this is plenty to also attach tieouts etc.
Thanks for the reply! I got nothing to loose so I am trying this. Thank you!
All of these videos are nice, but not one of them demonstrate on a long pant leg - am I missing something ? *sorry new to sewing and have sewed back regular seams, but encountered a seem like in the video that I’m having trouble controlling and making neat while sewing back*. Cheers.
nlawson2004 mainly because we are sewing tarps hammocks and tents :)
For pant legs they usually use long arm machines designed for long tubes
Great tip! But he's using a crisp fabric that takes a nice crease. Here's a variation that works with even the slickest, lightest fabrics that won't take a crease.
The secret is a 12mm (1/2 in) double sided basting tape. You'll need one with a strong glue.
Step 1 is to stick the tape along the edge of one of the sides. Take your time - doing this accurately is 90% of the job.
Step 2 is to progressively peel the backing paper and stick the other side on top, overlapping the first side by 12 mm. It doesn't matter too much if small edges of tape stick out from the fabric as they will be folded into the seam.
The tape holds the slippery fabric in place for the length of the seam and provides some stiffness to help the dogs feed smoothly. It also forms a well defined flap, which makes it far easier to sew.
From then on, follow the procedure in the video. Be sure to fold the flap to the side that covers the fabric edges inside the seam. The tape makes it easy to feed the flap into the felling foot. On my setup, I had to swing the needle around 4mm into the seam to take it away from the edge.
I used a quality titanium needle. It gets a bit sticky with the glue from the tape, but the thread was still feeding freely through the eye. Some people like to lubricate the needle with soap, but I haven't found the need.
With a bit of practice I'm getting results that are actually cleaner than a certain well known cottage maker! Far too slow to be commercially viable, but for MYOG it's well worth the effort to get a true felled seam that's going to be significantly stronger and more waterproof than the faux seams which leave you with stitches through just two layers of fabric..
The result is a seam with a little bit of stiffness, which is probably no bad thing for the ridge of a tarp. As an added bonus the glue seems to help waterproof the seam.
super sir
Nagesh Donakonda thanks
I want by hand please