Great video, liked the electronic tests to rule out ignition issues. I did not have sputtering on my 87 944 NA but just seemed to be missing that punch on the throttle. Removed the injectors and sent them up to Injector repair LLC in upstate NY. Amazing difference and so inexpensive with all Orings and seals changed and injectors ultrasonically cleaned with full test data.
Hey Man! Been a huge fan of your channel for a while now. I’m about to start dailying my 1984 N/A. Do you think you could put together a top 10-15 list of things for me to look at before I start? The belts were done about 500 miles ago and the water pump was changed out 2000 miles ago. She’s been in storage for about a year (with intermittent drives) and I just did new brake lines, control arms, struts, shocks, starter, and slave cylinder. Your videos have honestly been super helpful in keeping my car alive. All the best to you and your channel - keep up the hard work!
You’ve got a nice list of maintenance already completed there! 👍 Issues can vary based upon mileage and storage history, but having daily driven mine a bit here are some things I would consider… • Flush and replace all fluids if they are not up to date. The hydraulic lifters can be sensitive to dirty/old oil. • Newly installed timing belt tension should be checked between 500-2,000 miles after installation and adjusted as needed. • Aging fuel system components can be problematic, but will usually let you know with hard-start, no-start, or performance issues. At a minimum, dry/cracking fuel lines should be replaced. • Some people carry a spare DME relay for piece of mind… or pick up a solid state version. • If the car had a lengthy storage period, which is more than likely, seals can begin to fail as it’s driven more regularly. I would get in the habit of checking for fluid leaks every couple trips. Leaks at the oil pan, power steering pump, front engine seals, and camshaft assembly are common. • CV axle grease breaks down and seeps out over time. If you have a large collection of old/built up grease there, consider rebuilding the CV joints with new grease. • And finally, just watch out for any changes in normal operation or performance that would warrant additional inspection/diagnostics. Best of luck and have fun!
Funny that the factory security system by the driver's door is in the horizontal position and the car still starts. Maybe the security system has been disabled? I'm afraid to even try mine as I have heard horror stories about them malfunctioning.
I haven’t made any videos on it but the stock wastegate is electronically controlled. A lot of people do not understand how it works and will remove it, causing a lot of turbo lag. So honestly I would stay away from gimmicks and go with a modern ‘tunable’ electronic wastegate. The reason why is because you might make 300hp with a gimmicky solution but boost might be extremely laggy coming in at 4K rpm instead of 2800 rpm like it should. Not to mention the electronic wastegate these cars were intended to help prevent sudden boost surges that can come in when you least expect, like in turns. Not to mention at speed when you floor a car with an electronic wastegate it closes the wastegate so you go faster quicker. With a spring gimmick it’s open and just opens more creating more lag. I know that’s convoluted I hope it helps.
Congrats on your purchase! Come join my group on facebook and share some pics! With that being said, I have been on a lot of forums and I don't think I've ever seen anyone talk about how these are electronically controlled wastegates. Many will discard the cycling valve that the KLR computer controls, and then use a simple spring solution. So it isn't uncommon for 944 turbo owners to complain of lag, however when stock the lag isn't that noticeable. Shaving some seconds off the 0-60 won't be too hard since a lot of times recorded for these cars were made on 80's tech tires which was terrible and they had practically no grip. By the 1990's tire and rubber technology in general took leaps and bounds, so it wouldn't surprise me if just changing the tires and having a good driver that can 'work the gearbox' gets a stock non- S turbo down to 5.7 sec or better. Of course we have a lot of guys will upgrade the turbo, and that alone even running the same boost or just 15 psi really wakes these cars up. Combine a ultraspool turbo with a modern electronic wastegate and you've got a very fun car. I couldn't tell you the 0-60 times of some of the cars that we build here but in 3rd gear not much is going to keep up!
You can do the same mods, of course as your 1989 turbo will already be quicker already. However, you will not be disappointed with either of those mods which will make it much faster. With that being said, funny story. We have a few 1989 turbos come by the shop occasionally. One in particular is stock is all original and low milage, so an absolute show stopper. The owner once asked me if it was running right because he said it felt slow. So I took it out and tried to see if anything was wrong. While it wasn't the fastest turbo I've driven, it was driving perfectly. It just turned out that the owner also has a 700 hp 911, so to him it felt really slow. So as long your other cars aren't 600 hp I think you'll be fairly happy with the performance, until you decide to upgrade. Thanks again and take care!
The dry turbo setup REALLY reduces the clutter in the engine bay and part of me wishes I went ahead and did it in my current rebuild. Is that a stock turbo with the plumbing just removed?
Thanks for the video I tested the plug I got 14.8v. Sometimes goes down to 14.0 sometimes 15 ok here is the issue I changed transformer. Test while plugged in. Getting 14.8 Light doesn’t turn on. Put a 12 volt car battery jumper box to leads. Light goes on. Any idea I know it sounds messed up. Also flipped the leads to see if I had them wrong even with jump box. I didn’t have wires wrong. Any help would ne great ty
This is the one that I have and it comes with everything needed. It also appears to be on clearance now. I paid way more for mine! Good luck! www.harborfreight.com/master-fuel-injection-pressure-test-kit-63727.html
A lot of these cars read a little over 12v on the gauge despite being about 13.9 at the alternator while running. They will also show under 10v when not running despite having 12v at the battery. I think it's mostly due to age, but its rare to see one behaving properly. Thanks!
Nice wheels. Super clean. I’ve got an 87 turbo and have the occasional starting problem after it’s warm. It sometimes take 3 or 4 cranks to start, very intermittent. Any suggestions how to trouble shoot this? I’ve replaced fuel filter, strainer, pump, distributor cap and rotor, fuel pressure damper, DME relay, plugs, spark plug wires and checked the coil (which is within range). I’ve run out of ideas.
Was the fuel pump check valve replaced when you swapped the pump? I had a similar issue on my ‘88 that was resolved by replacing a clogged check valve. Other suspects could be leaky injectors or failing fuel pump regulator. The damper you replaced will help stabilize vibrations along the rail, the regulator balances the pressure. Testing fuel pressure and leak down at the rail as shown here would be a good place to start.
@@NC944er I think you’re on the right track. I didn’t know what the fuel check valve was until I searched it on the internet. It appears that it came with my fuel pump but I didn’t know what it was and I think I threw it out. I was cleaning out my garage and a lot of leftover items and old stuff were thrown out. I’m a little pissed at myself for doing that. I’ll have to double check but I don’t think I installed it. Thanks for the idea. I’ll update this later. Just a thought… can you even connect a Bosch gas pump without the check valve?
@@glow9999 Mine was like that too - I had to turn the key on and wait a few seconds before starting it or it would just crank and crank after it was warm. I replaced the checkvalve and all is good again.
Hey Brent , there may be some drama with the cylinder head on my wife's 924 , I think that oil control orifice on the back of the head may have been missing when I installed it. When the gasket got old i now have a good oil leak back there . My question is if that is missing and I can't get a part will my good turbo head work ? Thanks man
The earlier cars didn't have it so it shouldn't cause any issues... for the most part (I mean they did add it for a reason but we swap early and late heads all the time). That said, the biggest cause for oil leaks there is too much torque on the cam housing bolts. They are 15 ft/lbs working up and down from the center out to the edge. If you put 16 ft/lbs even by mistake it can split the gasket and cause leaks. I hope that helps!
Brent , did I send you the link to our new car ? If not, check it out!! 😁😁😀😀 th-cam.com/video/hCHTXCKGf7U/w-d-xo.html. BTW , my turbo track car is for sale if you know anyone interested!!! 😀🏁🍺 th-cam.com/video/oaIYffwo1DI/w-d-xo.html
Edredas I need ya help I’m restoring a Porsche 944 83 that I bought close to a year ago but the guy that I had bought it from told me it needed just timing once I started digging in the engine was blown the block had cracked n water went into the oil, so I got a another Porsche 944 84 and need guidance into swapping the engine but I don’t know to much about Porsche’s, plz get back to me as to I’m tryna daily it
I’m having a similar issue, I have a 87 turbo and the car will go through first just fine but in the other gears it stutters hard around 3500rpm. It was just fine until yesterday.
It could be a number of things. In the video I started with the most common issues and after ruling them out I ended up at the injectors. Do you smell any fuel or see any unusual brown areas around the injectors?
edredas I don’t smell any gas or see anything. One thing I see is that the idle control screw in the throttle body fell out so maybe that has something to do with it?
edredas I get the part in soon so fingers crossed. Also you earned a subscriber. Great content, you made it easy to understand even for someone dumb like me 👍
Love the inserts with the diagnostic info, and your detailed explanation. Fine work as usual.
Hey Chuck
That Turbo looks real clean. Love the shinny paint after all these years.
Great video loved the diagnosis process. Well done.
Thanks!
Love the new intro! Not sure when you put it on but looks great. Great information as well
Really nice video. There's a lot of 944 content out there already, but we need more of this kind/quality of content as these cars continue to age.
I love the 944 very underrated
I really enjoyed the journey and appreciate your diagnostic ability.
Great video and great editing. No bs. Loved it
Very well put together video tutorial on how to diagnose. Bravo 👏
Really well done. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. New owner.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Great video, liked the electronic tests to rule out ignition issues. I did not have sputtering on my 87 944 NA but just seemed to be missing that punch on the throttle. Removed the injectors and sent them up to Injector repair LLC in upstate NY.
Amazing difference and so inexpensive with all Orings and seals changed and injectors ultrasonically cleaned with full test data.
Great intro, wish you were in southern Ontario. Keep up the great content.
Saved a possible engine fire and total writeoff too!
excellent vid ,… i learnt quite a lot 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
more, please more! thanks
Hey Man! Been a huge fan of your channel for a while now.
I’m about to start dailying my 1984 N/A. Do you think you could put together a top 10-15 list of things for me to look at before I start? The belts were done about 500 miles ago and the water pump was changed out 2000 miles ago. She’s been in storage for about a year (with intermittent drives) and I just did new brake lines, control arms, struts, shocks, starter, and slave cylinder.
Your videos have honestly been super helpful in keeping my car alive. All the best to you and your channel - keep up the hard work!
You’ve got a nice list of maintenance already completed there! 👍 Issues can vary based upon mileage and storage history, but having daily driven mine a bit here are some things I would consider…
• Flush and replace all fluids if they are not up to date. The hydraulic lifters can be sensitive to dirty/old oil.
• Newly installed timing belt tension should be checked between 500-2,000 miles after installation and adjusted as needed.
• Aging fuel system components can be problematic, but will usually let you know with hard-start, no-start, or performance issues. At a minimum, dry/cracking fuel lines should be replaced.
• Some people carry a spare DME relay for piece of mind… or pick up a solid state version.
• If the car had a lengthy storage period, which is more than likely, seals can begin to fail as it’s driven more regularly. I would get in the habit of checking for fluid leaks every couple trips. Leaks at the oil pan, power steering pump, front engine seals, and camshaft assembly are common.
• CV axle grease breaks down and seeps out over time. If you have a large collection of old/built up grease there, consider rebuilding the CV joints with new grease.
• And finally, just watch out for any changes in normal operation or performance that would warrant additional inspection/diagnostics.
Best of luck and have fun!
@@NC944er thank you for taking the time to put this together mate! Much appreciated!
@@NC944er whats the most common reason for the power steering pump leaking? is this easy to fix?
Good catch dude!
great video again!!!
Alrighty 🎉🎉 😀🤘🏼
What a fantastic video!
Good work as always !
:)
Thank you!
Funny that the factory security system by the driver's door is in the horizontal position and the car still starts. Maybe the security system has been disabled? I'm afraid to even try mine as I have heard horror stories about them malfunctioning.
HI thank you for the video do you have a video on tuning the waste gate? some say the adjusting the wstegate can get a much better performance
I haven’t made any videos on it but the stock wastegate is electronically controlled. A lot of people do not understand how it works and will remove it, causing a lot of turbo lag. So honestly I would stay away from gimmicks and go with a modern ‘tunable’ electronic wastegate. The reason why is because you might make 300hp with a gimmicky solution but boost might be extremely laggy coming in at 4K rpm instead of 2800 rpm like it should. Not to mention the electronic wastegate these cars were intended to help prevent sudden boost surges that can come in when you least expect, like in turns. Not to mention at speed when you floor a car with an electronic wastegate it closes the wastegate so you go faster quicker. With a spring gimmick it’s open and just opens more creating more lag. I know that’s convoluted I hope it helps.
Congrats on your purchase! Come join my group on facebook and share some pics! With that being said, I have been on a lot of forums and I don't think I've ever seen anyone talk about how these are electronically controlled wastegates. Many will discard the cycling valve that the KLR computer controls, and then use a simple spring solution. So it isn't uncommon for 944 turbo owners to complain of lag, however when stock the lag isn't that noticeable. Shaving some seconds off the 0-60 won't be too hard since a lot of times recorded for these cars were made on 80's tech tires which was terrible and they had practically no grip. By the 1990's tire and rubber technology in general took leaps and bounds, so it wouldn't surprise me if just changing the tires and having a good driver that can 'work the gearbox' gets a stock non- S turbo down to 5.7 sec or better. Of course we have a lot of guys will upgrade the turbo, and that alone even running the same boost or just 15 psi really wakes these cars up. Combine a ultraspool turbo with a modern electronic wastegate and you've got a very fun car. I couldn't tell you the 0-60 times of some of the cars that we build here but in 3rd gear not much is going to keep up!
You can do the same mods, of course as your 1989 turbo will already be quicker already. However, you will not be disappointed with either of those mods which will make it much faster. With that being said, funny story. We have a few 1989 turbos come by the shop occasionally. One in particular is stock is all original and low milage, so an absolute show stopper. The owner once asked me if it was running right because he said it felt slow. So I took it out and tried to see if anything was wrong. While it wasn't the fastest turbo I've driven, it was driving perfectly. It just turned out that the owner also has a 700 hp 911, so to him it felt really slow. So as long your other cars aren't 600 hp I think you'll be fairly happy with the performance, until you decide to upgrade. Thanks again and take care!
The dry turbo setup REALLY reduces the clutter in the engine bay and part of me wishes I went ahead and did it in my current rebuild. Is that a stock turbo with the plumbing just removed?
Thanks for the video I tested the plug I got 14.8v. Sometimes goes down to 14.0 sometimes 15 ok here is the issue I changed transformer. Test while plugged in. Getting 14.8 Light doesn’t turn on. Put a 12 volt car battery jumper box to leads. Light goes on. Any idea I know it sounds messed up. Also flipped the leads to see if I had them wrong even with jump box. I didn’t have wires wrong. Any help would ne great ty
The timing on this video is perfect. Could you tell me what pressure gauge you used to test the fuel pressure?
I believe that I got this one from Harbor Freight. Thanks!
@@edredas did you make an adapter for 1/8th or did it come with the tool?
This is the one that I have and it comes with everything needed. It also appears to be on clearance now. I paid way more for mine! Good luck! www.harborfreight.com/master-fuel-injection-pressure-test-kit-63727.html
Does the voltage look low on this car or maybe it's just the camera angle that makes it seem to be not much over 12V.
A lot of these cars read a little over 12v on the gauge despite being about 13.9 at the alternator while running. They will also show under 10v when not running despite having 12v at the battery. I think it's mostly due to age, but its rare to see one behaving properly. Thanks!
Hi there...my 951 rev counter started to run intermittently beforecit stopped completely...any idea what could coz this...thanks for any info
This is very common and it’s due to age. Nothing you can do really but send off to be rebuilt.
Nice wheels. Super clean. I’ve got an 87 turbo and have the occasional starting problem after it’s warm. It sometimes take 3 or 4 cranks to start, very intermittent. Any suggestions how to trouble shoot this? I’ve replaced fuel filter, strainer, pump, distributor cap and rotor, fuel pressure damper, DME relay, plugs, spark plug wires and checked the coil (which is within range). I’ve run out of ideas.
Looks like the speed and reference sensors need to be replaced
Was the fuel pump check valve replaced when you swapped the pump? I had a similar issue on my ‘88 that was resolved by replacing a clogged check valve.
Other suspects could be leaky injectors or failing fuel pump regulator. The damper you replaced will help stabilize vibrations along the rail, the regulator balances the pressure. Testing fuel pressure and leak down at the rail as shown here would be a good place to start.
@@NC944er I think you’re on the right track. I didn’t know what the fuel check valve was until I searched it on the internet. It appears that it came with my fuel pump but I didn’t know what it was and I think I threw it out. I was cleaning out my garage and a lot of leftover items and old stuff were thrown out. I’m a little pissed at myself for doing that. I’ll have to double check but I don’t think I installed it. Thanks for the idea. I’ll update this later.
Just a thought… can you even connect a Bosch gas pump without the check valve?
@@glow9999 Mine was like that too - I had to turn the key on and wait a few seconds before starting it or it would just crank and crank after it was warm. I replaced the checkvalve and all is good again.
Throttle Position Switch.
Hey Brent , there may be some drama with the cylinder head on my wife's 924 , I think that oil control orifice on the back of the head may have been missing when I installed it. When the gasket got old i now have a good oil leak back there . My question is if that is missing and I can't get a part will my good turbo head work ? Thanks man
The earlier cars didn't have it so it shouldn't cause any issues... for the most part (I mean they did add it for a reason but we swap early and late heads all the time). That said, the biggest cause for oil leaks there is too much torque on the cam housing bolts. They are 15 ft/lbs working up and down from the center out to the edge. If you put 16 ft/lbs even by mistake it can split the gasket and cause leaks. I hope that helps!
@@edredas thanks man!!! To the 944 whisperer!!😁😁😁😀😀😀🚘🚘🍺🍺🍺
Brent , did I send you the link to our new car ? If not, check it out!! 😁😁😀😀 th-cam.com/video/hCHTXCKGf7U/w-d-xo.html. BTW , my turbo track car is for sale if you know anyone interested!!! 😀🏁🍺 th-cam.com/video/oaIYffwo1DI/w-d-xo.html
Edredas I need ya help I’m restoring a Porsche 944 83 that I bought close to a year ago but the guy that I had bought it from told me it needed just timing once I started digging in the engine was blown the block had cracked n water went into the oil, so I got a another Porsche 944 84 and need guidance into swapping the engine but I don’t know to much about Porsche’s, plz get back to me as to I’m tryna daily it
Hi Damian, send an email to edredas@gmail.com and I'll ty to help! Thanks!
Can you t test the tps at the tps instead the dme.
Absolutely! There are instructions online.
Where are u located
Near Charlotte, NC
Hey Brent , was your turbo 924 a very problematic swap , did you use the 951 gearbox ? Asking for a friend 😂😂😂😂😂🚗🚗🚗🚗🚗🍺🍺🍺
I’m having a similar issue, I have a 87 turbo and the car will go through first just fine but in the other gears it stutters hard around 3500rpm. It was just fine until yesterday.
It could be a number of things. In the video I started with the most common issues and after ruling them out I ended up at the injectors. Do you smell any fuel or see any unusual brown areas around the injectors?
edredas I don’t smell any gas or see anything. One thing I see is that the idle control screw in the throttle body fell out so maybe that has something to do with it?
@@chem395 that could definitely cause an issue. You would be loosing boost and running lean.
edredas I get the part in soon so fingers crossed. Also you earned a subscriber. Great content, you made it easy to understand even for someone dumb like me 👍