I did heirloom sewing for 30+ years using handkerchief linen, Swiss nelona batiste, Italian organdy and fine French laces. Although these fabrics are almost sheer and very delicate looking you can expect them to last to be handed down for generations. One caution I would like to give is *never* use poly or polyblend thread for stitching your quilt blocks. It’s not that poly thread is not good quality, but that it is stronger than your quilt fabric *over time*. What you will see over tens of years, using poly thread,and normal laundering is that the thread will be intact, but the cotton fabric no matter the quality will be broken along the seam so the fabric will look as if it was cut along the seam line. That is a difficult problem to repair. The cotton thread/cotton fabric combo the thread will more likely give way leaving the fabric intact. This is an easy repair to make - just a few hand stitches to repair the seam along the original seam allowance which is still *mostly* intact*. I would prefer to mend the second scenario than the first. I saw this over both cotton quilts. Poly thread will cut your fabric before it will break. I want every thing I sew to last a long time so cotton thread with cotton fabric is the way I fly!
Thank you Connie for this golden nugget of information. I’ve heard differing views on poly vs. cotton and yours is the most compelling. I’ll stick with my cotton fabric/cotton thread.
I accidentally edited out an important part. I collect antique christening gowns. Some are 300+ years old. Those garments were boiled when they were laundered when they were in use. I found no seam slippage in any of them. A few sections of stitching coming undone but all less than 1”. You should see the stitching on these garments. And the fabric are so fine I’ve never seen the like. Anyhow, the point I wanted to make was the issue of the damage with poly thread. I sewed almost all of my children’s clothing (4 daughters) and my observation carried thru garments, quilts, home Dec. If I wanted to hand a garment down, I made sure I used only cotton threads. All the work that went into my daughters clothes I didn’t want to toss them after one child. They didn’t mind hand me downs as long as they weren’t babyish lol. But I didn’t mind repairing a seam now and again. We are now expecting out 3rd *great* grandchild and we are so excited.
@Connie Murdoch thank you for this! I prefer sewing with cotton and strangely enough my sewing machines (yes I have several including my grandmother’s Singer 63 years old) prefer me using cotton thread. Poly and poly/cotton blend thread seams (see what I did) to knot to much and can cause great issues I just do not have time to deal with! I’ll also stick with cotton - it is, after all, the fabric of our lives!
@@christinahall3318 I also have many vintage machines. I used to have about 25. I fix them up so that they work well and gift them to kids that want to learn to sew. I *think*I have 5 or 6 vintage machines still but I also have my modern machines that I won’t count and my featherweight which I would also never sell. Vintage machines were meant to sew natural fabrics. These machines were also meticulously machined so that the stitching was reliable and precise. They give the best stitching possible on cottons. They are also timeless if properly maintained.
I couldn’t comment on the memory quilt podcast as close friend, who we thought was recovering, suddenly died. Anyway, now that the tears have somewhat abated, thank you for that heart felt podcast. I started thinking of him in all of his lovely starched shirts. I cried along with you. I still can’t believe it!
I have just started hand sewing a memory quilt with a special theme and, being inexperienced with fabric, I bought the colours I wanted but today realised how flimsy some of the fabrics are. I went to spotlight (Melbourne Australia) and the lady doing the cutting advised me to buy poplin and fusible and use it in conjunction with this cotton blend that I bought and fuse it. Thank you, I found your video this evening.
Thank you again. Your calming voice in the chaos is wonderful and you give me courage to stretch and grow my skills. I have a few of my husbands shirts that are flimsy and was wondering how to deal with them. Right on time with the advice!
Wonderful advice and suggestions about dealing with thin and wonky fabrics Cathy! Thank you for such a clear and helpful segment. I’m sure you saved quilters a lot of frustration. 👍🏼 And it’s so nice to see you feeling better since the accidents. You, your daughter and your family have been in my thoughts daily. Hope you both have recovered, are well and that replacement cars are all worked out. Such a scary time. Hugs and continued best wishes. ❤️❤️
Thank you, Shannon! I am feeling more myself, for sure! I'm fine, my oldest is still a little sore, tense and achy, but on the mend! And rental cars for us both so now we can get around---onward and upward! 👍🏻 Thank you for your kind thoughts for our recovery; I cherish them and am grateful every day for both of us not sustaining major injuries! ❤️
My grandpa has shirts that are now threadbare. I plan to use them along with my grandma's shirts to make memory bears. I'll be using featherweight interfacing on most of the materials I'll be using.
I don't often use fitted sheets on account of the increased chance of threadbare sections. If I do plan to repurpose fabric from a fitted sheet, I always test the strength of the fabric by systematically pulling small sections both ways on the grain all the way from top to bottom and side to side all over the sheet. Threadbare sections will rip apart very easily. I then use only the sections that pass the pull test (and by pulling, I'm not rending it like I'm playing tug-of-war with a rabid hyena - just pulling enough to test the strength of the threads). When I acquire fitted sheets from a thrift store, I never really know what I'm getting and I find that they almost always have sections that fail the pull test. I'd rather have a sheet rip to shreds and show itself to be completely unusable early on than to have that fabric come undone after I've sewn it into a quilt.
Hmmmm, when you first came on camera, all I could focus on (besides your beautiful smiling face) was your blouse. I have decided that, yes, it would look great in a quilt! You have created a happy monster in me as I look at clothing so differently now. Sending hugs ❤
Love Liberty Tana Lawn 🥰 but I’m equally happy with the quilts I make with shirts and other fabrics 👍 Good advice for handling thinner/flimsy fabrics 👏 Thanks 👏👏🇬🇧 Take great care of each other.
Thanks again for a very informative video!! I have not used a lot of shirts in my quilting, but recently I used some printed quilters cotton and some batiks in the same quilt. I needed to starch the quilters cotton, where I did not with the batiks so that piecing the two together would work with better seems and less slippage. The batiks often have small amounts of wax left over in the fabric which gives it the body that printed fabrics do not.
Thank you so much for this advice! I hadn't considered the differences or the issues with working with thin shirt fabrics. I have used a thin shirt fabric on a quilt without hesitation and made it work. I did find it a challenge to quilt it so I quilted it less densely than I wanted because of the puckering issue. You have made my next quilt more successful for sharing your knowledge. Thank you! I was at a loss for words on your last video. I'm so glad you and your daughter are safe and healing. And i was equally heartbroken for the lady who lost her son. Your caring, wisdom and positivity, no matter the subject, is a blessing to us that watch your videos. Y'all are a bright light in a dark world. ❤ Michelle
Oh yay! I'm glad this video was helpful to you! Every time I use a "new" thrift store fabric, I learn something and want to share so everyone else learns, too! ❤️
I watched Fallon Caldwell's video just prior to yours. She also addressed pressure foot adjustments! I never considered doing that. My Janome is dialed to AUTO, and I assumed that the pressure on the fabric piece would automatically adjust. Two pieces of advice right in a row, makes me think otherwise. Thank you for sharing your journey. And I like that you have a lot to say about it!
Oh wow! I was supposed by this! More good information for sure. I need to press more thoughtfully and not slide my iron so much. But I just had an idea to use some of my plaids on the diagonal to same myself some stress 😬. I know it will be a totally different look but I’m an improv quilter and I’m fine with that. Thank you! 💕
I use a lightweight pellon stabilizer on my tea shirt quilts. Then when I stipple on the quilt as I'm quilting I have no problems and they are soft. But, I think you're talking about different quilt making. Thanks for video. You are such a blessing
Thanks Cathy for all the great tips!! 🥰👏🏻 I made a memory quilt for my son for his grad out of his old tshirts and used interfacing that I think was too thick. I used the cuddle fleece for the backing. The blanket is a bit too stiff I don’t think I would use that again and it’s quite heavy…but thankfully he loves the quilt so happy about that…but definitely learned for next time. The problem with tshirts is they stretch quite a bit. I think I would try using starch. Or else for sure a much lighter interfacing.
Charity, I think if you're using t-shirts (or any knits, really) you almost have to use interfacing to get it to keep the shape for piecing. But maybe featherweight would work better?
I’ve recently learned something new - thank you Cathy! A few videos ago you mentioned that you starch your fabric before cutting - I’ve been doing that and love it!!! I have also learned to add a little bit more while I am piecing. Starch is my go to! (With the exception of making t-shirt quilts and that is a whole nother can of worms!) Loved this video CatBird!
Your shirt game continues to be on point! This is all such great advice. I used to be so against starch because of my associations with it. But you've converted me, and I think I'm going to start using it in sewing clothing as well, at least for some applications. Old dogs learning new tricks, I guess. ("I don't know what I got goin' on, but..." Story. Of my. LIFE, my friend. We don't know, but we've sure got it! Whatever "it" is, folks seem to like it. Thanks for being you!)
Hi Cathy 👋 what a great database of knowledge you are creating here! I love our hive mind ♥ When tracing sewing patterns, I use a very lightweight fusible interfacing. It's thinner than a tissue, and quite soft. I usually buy 10 metres at a time because I find it useful to have on hand . If memory srves its from Birch...buts 4.35 am, our clocks have changed back to regular time and goodness only knows why im awake! I imagine that other quilters would be able to get something similar at Joann's or Michael's. Buying it in yardage is cheaper than buying it in packets generally speaking. It's good to see you looking brighter. Thinking of you and your dear ones ♥
Thanks, again for another very comprehensive video. I think I would have to be SUPER in love with a ‘thin’ fabric to use it in a quilt, but when I do find that fabric (you KNOW the next time I’m thrifting, it will happen!) I’ll know where to find your recommendations on how to successfully work with it.
I am apt to throw out anything that is too thin, or has poly in it. Just because I don't want to deal with it! I want to enjoy my sewing time, and fighting with naughty fabric isn't fun. 😁Good video. Lots of good explanations. ❤
my problem is that i have so many beautoful quiltimg fabrics but they are see through! which feels like a scam, because quilting fabric is expensive to begin with so id expect it to not be so see through. i might as well have bough shirts or a bed sheet. but i think i might try dpubling the fabric which will make it quite thick and then maybe i dont need batting. im not trying to make an especially thick blanket so that might work well. thanks for the tips !
Another problem with interfacing is the adhesive can partly wash out and the cotton fabric will bubble. I have a commercial blouse where this happened and it is unsightly. It originally looked pristine so the interfacing was adhered uniformly at first.
Jeanette, I had not thought of that but you are right! I had a shirt that the collar did exactly that and it was very unsightly as well (stealing your perfect word choice!) Thanks for sharing! ❤️
@TheCatBirdQuilts @jeanette6396 Here are some more observations about fusibles from my garment sewing years. Forgive me for proselytizing? Three main reasons for fusibles buckling or bubbling and I will outline then here with some suggestions. The people who make and sell fusibles will tell you bubbling is caused by “user error”. And if you go back to your instructions to check you might find that suggestion has merit. I am going to generalize because there are so many brands and the adhesive characteristics/quality differ widely if you look at just the brands that are considered “good quality”. Getting the best results requires a good iron - one that has an accurate thermostat so you know the temperature in the soleplate is accurate with respect to what you have set it at. It also helps if it’s not a steam iron. This might surprise you but it’s better to use a silk organza press cloth and a spray mister to create steam. The transparency of the silk organza makes it easier to see the edges of the fusible. And silk organza is one of the cheaper types of silk. The current batch of silk organza that I’m using was $5.99 a meter. (I checked just now and it is about $14) I usually buy the amt of yardage to make a square. I typically find it in 54” or 60” widths. I cut that up with a pinking shears and put a small grommet in one corner so I can hang it on the pegboard. That yardage that will make 4 large press cloths but you might want to make them to suit what interfacing you typically use. Years ago I found a vintage iron that has no steam holes in the bottom. With a pressing cloth and a spray or mist of water this does such a great job. Once you are all set to fuse there are still a few things you need to think about. First, make sure your iron has reached the fusing temperature. It’s so easy to jump the gun out of our impatience a place the iron down to fuse when it is almost hot enough. Don’t forget that as soon as you hit the pressing surface the iron soleplate will cool quickly and dramatically due to the damp press cloth and the room temp surface you are pressing on. So make sure your iron is ready before you begin. Next, do a light tap, tap tap with your iron so that you are “tacking” the interfacing in place. Then you can go back and do the longer fusing for however many seconds your interfacing suggests. If you buy the interfacing that comes on a roll with the plastic that has the instructions on it make sure you keep at least one repeat of the instructions and read them to remind yourself every time you fuse. I roll my interfacing onto a gift wrap tube and i safety pin the instructions to the top of the cardboard tube and push the instructions into the hollow center. When you are doing the longer fusing you place the iron down and leave it for the correct amount of time, then lift and place the iron on the next place. Sliding the iron is not recommended because you will distort the fabric and you might detach some of the adhesive from where it had already started to stick. Once an area has been completely fused allow it to cool completely before shifting the fabric. Lifting or sliding the fabric will distort the fused area and might also break the glue bonds that had formed before they get a chance to set. All of those steps are on the instruction sheets but often we rely on our memory and leave things out. Another area of user error is buying off brand types of interfacing. Just like sale bin threads, inexpensive interfacing is no bargain and is often the biggest cause of bubbling. You might notice with those brands that many of the tiny glue dots have fallen off in the packaging or onto your ironing surface. Plus these brands put less glue on their interfacing to begin with and if I were guessing they also use a lower quality of adhesive. On the surface most of the brand name fusibles do an adequate job of fusing to your fabric if you do a really good job of fusing. But there are other brands that can be found. I used to read the blog of a custom shirt maker who bought her interfacing in large amounts and would share it with her readers. The beauty of this interfacing was that it was 60” wide compared to the usual 15” or so that typical interfacing is made in. That’s the width most usable for garment sewing. We aren’t sewing garments. Also this interfacings glue was so fine and so densely spread that there were more glue dots that were closer together which leaves fewer places without any glue on them. This was one custom shirt maker who would sell some of her own stash to make it more affordable to buy. I still have quite a lot and I’m dreading running out because I don’t know where to look for it. Oops I just checked and it looks like her sewing site is still there. Her Off-the-cuff blog is still out there but there are no more recent issues one the site. Last I checked she was fighting severe illness - I think it her second occurrence of breast cancer. So I will give you what is out there for contact info and if you want to give it a try. She used to sell sample packs - smaller cuts of each of the types of interfacing she sells. Her storefront is Fashion Sewing Supply and the products are Pro Sheer fusible and there seems to be a sample pack of 9 pieces of all the types she sells. (@TheCatbirdQuilts - if you this is not allowed please delete - I shared because I really love this interfacing) oops looks like I had a lot to say about it!
Often the projects I am asked to make use both cotton dress shirts and jersey/t-shirt knits. Have you ever used starch on a knit or an athletic poly shirt? I have never used starch because it seems messy and I don't want to gum up my iron plate. Starching seems like a lot of work. However ironing on fusible is also a lot of work. I have been alternatively using a tricot nylon fusible which has a slight stretch and is very thin and a thin cotton woven interfacing, but some of the drape is lost on the knits and can pull away over time making it look lumpy. I have successfully used a fusible fleece on very thin, threadbare shirts for memory bears/animals. It works great and holds up to stuffing, while preserving the memory of the fabric. Thank you for your videos each week.
Patricia, I haven't!! And I'm not sure how starch would work on an athletic poly shirt! 😱 Knits are challenging for sure (!!) for all the reasons you gave and then some!! I'm so very impressed by creatives like you that can use varying types of fabrics and textiles! 🤩
I also find there's a third (fourth?) category of unstable fabrics.... low weave density. I've found especially at big box stores, usually in the character prints, the fabric uses nice thick threads, but so loosely that it unravels faster than i can work with it, and does all the warping and pulling things that a thin fabric will do! plus all the disadvantages of having just a small number of unravelled threads threatens your seam allowance... it's super annoying to find.
Katie, you are SO right---for all of the reasons you named! Low quality oxford cloth shirts are very like this--especially that thing where just a few threads raveling cuts into your seam allowance! 😱 Super frustrating.
Another great video! Cathy the whips video you did was great! one question? am I completely out of control quilter Halfway through the video I started to imagine the stripes on your shirt as Quilt fabric and started making pizza like triangle slices and rotating etc.. Lol I'm a crazy Quilter
There is 100% cotton (except for the glue dots) iron on fusible available in white or black, from Pellon. I think it’s 101. I used it when I was incorporating some T-shirt designs into a quilt.
Out of curiosity I searched for 100% cotton interfacing and found there are quite a few available now. I’ve only used the Pellon because it was available locally, and it worked exactly as I wanted it to do.
Pelion SF101 is a woven fusible…it works in these situations much better than even featherweight fusible…especially if you pay attention to fabric grain and match it in the fabric and interfacing
I bought a quilt topper in excellent condition. It is made of men’s shirts and is crisp, probably already starched. My question is won’t the men’s shirt fabric where out quickly, because it is thin? Do I need to put another piece of fabric behind it, before the batting?
I haven't had any issues with the quilts I've made with shirts. I use my first quilt every day (it stays on my bed) and I wash it routinely---no signs of fraying, wearing out, or becoming threadbare and it's about 3 years old. So I would say "no" to your question. But trust your gut. If it feels very worn in certain areas, it won't hurt to interface it before you put together your quilt sandwich.
Lots of great tips and ideas as usual but I personally just tend to shy away from using really thin fabrics. Love your linen shirt backdrop and your scrap baskets! Could you share a link for the baskets?
I heard of boiling sugar and water and using it like starch. Also mix Vodka - one third, and 2 thirds water, with a drop of essential oil. They both wash out.
What the best way to starch fabric. 1. Drench fabric with starch and press ? 2. Drench fabric and lay flat on cookie rack and let dry overnight? I’ve heard of some who starch heavily and leave to dry overnight on a folding wooden rack. This seams like this method would cause some distortion, or I’m I overthinking this? Oh by the way, as a sidebar, I could watch White Christmas every month too. In our household, we do have a few Christmasy things that are up all year. Little things.
I drench and let dry (flat) overnight, and that works the best for me. I have used a laundry drying rack, but it does distort the fabric around the area that was over the drying rack bar. Sometimes it irons out and sometimes the fabric stays a bit warped so I try not to do that with whole shirt pieces.🤓👍🏻
Great tips! So much information, my head is spinning. I think I will just avoid buying the thin fabrics…! However, I do have some old quilt tops made of thin fabrics, and I wonder how hard it will be to interface the whole entire back of it! Especially when the sewing wasn’t great and some of the seams may not be laying flat.Hmmm … And lucky you having such a nice husband that knows exactly what to buy you for gifts! 😀
@@TheCatBirdQuilts TY! Maybe I will stay away from it for quilting…I’m a beginner at best 😂… I was thinking of doing a memory quilt and some of the shirts are silk. But there’s linen and cotton too so I can stick to that 😊
Don't be confused, Pamela. When I talk about one of the pros for interfacing is helping thicken it up so it pairs well next to a thicker fabric---that's exactly what I'm talking about. It matches the thickness of the jeans. (Which I haven't made a quilt from yet, but that's the theory!)
I understand that with memory quilts, you may need fusible interfacing. However, I would pass on thrift shirts that are thin, no matter how pretty the color.
I did heirloom sewing for 30+ years using handkerchief linen, Swiss nelona batiste, Italian organdy and fine French laces. Although these fabrics are almost sheer and very delicate looking you can expect them to last to be handed down for generations.
One caution I would like to give is *never* use poly or polyblend thread for stitching your quilt blocks. It’s not that poly thread is not good quality, but that it is stronger than your quilt fabric *over time*. What you will see over tens of years, using poly thread,and normal laundering is that the thread will be intact, but the cotton fabric no matter the quality will be broken along the seam so the fabric will look as if it was cut along the seam line. That is a difficult problem to repair. The cotton thread/cotton fabric combo the thread will more likely give way leaving the fabric intact. This is an easy repair to make - just a few hand stitches to repair the seam along the original seam allowance which is still *mostly* intact*. I would prefer to mend the second scenario than the first. I saw this over both cotton quilts. Poly thread will cut your fabric before it will break. I want every thing I sew to last a long time so cotton thread with cotton fabric is the way I fly!
Thank you Connie for this golden nugget of information. I’ve heard differing views on poly vs. cotton and yours is the most compelling. I’ll stick with my cotton fabric/cotton thread.
I accidentally edited out an important part. I collect antique christening gowns. Some are 300+ years old. Those garments were boiled when they were laundered when they were in use. I found no seam slippage in any of them. A few sections of stitching coming undone but all less than 1”. You should see the stitching on these garments. And the fabric are so fine I’ve never seen the like. Anyhow, the point I wanted to make was the issue of the damage with poly thread. I sewed almost all of my children’s clothing (4 daughters) and my observation carried thru garments, quilts, home Dec. If I wanted to hand a garment down, I made sure I used only cotton threads. All the work that went into my daughters clothes I didn’t want to toss them after one child. They didn’t mind hand me downs as long as they weren’t babyish lol. But I didn’t mind repairing a seam now and again. We are now expecting out 3rd *great* grandchild and we are so excited.
@Connie Murdoch thank you for this! I prefer sewing with cotton and strangely enough my sewing machines (yes I have several including my grandmother’s Singer 63 years old) prefer me using cotton thread. Poly and poly/cotton blend thread seams (see what I did) to knot to much and can cause great issues I just do not have time to deal with! I’ll also stick with cotton - it is, after all, the fabric of our lives!
@@christinahall3318 I also have many vintage machines. I used to have about 25. I fix them up so that they work well and gift them to kids that want to learn to sew. I *think*I have 5 or 6 vintage machines still but I also have my modern machines that I won’t count and my featherweight which I would also never sell. Vintage machines were meant to sew natural fabrics. These machines were also meticulously machined so that the stitching was reliable and precise. They give the best stitching possible on cottons. They are also timeless if properly maintained.
What is your favorite cotton thread?
I couldn’t comment on the memory quilt podcast as close friend, who we thought was recovering, suddenly died. Anyway, now that the tears have somewhat abated, thank you for that heart felt podcast. I started thinking of him in all of his lovely starched shirts. I cried along with you. I still can’t believe it!
Oh, Jill. I'm so sorry for your loss! It may take some time for it to sink in! So glad the video was meaningful for you! ❤️
Looks like you’ve had fun dressing the shot with linen shirts
It was wing-it moment that came together well, I think. It made me happy, at least! 😘
I have just started hand sewing a memory quilt with a special theme and, being inexperienced with fabric, I bought the colours I wanted but today realised how flimsy some of the fabrics are. I went to spotlight (Melbourne Australia) and the lady doing the cutting advised me to buy poplin and fusible and use it in conjunction with this cotton blend that I bought and fuse it. Thank you, I found your video this evening.
Your starch discussion is very informative. Of course your always informative 😁. As always, so enjoy listening to your voice. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks, Mary! ❤️
I love all those pretty colored shirts behind you it makes such a rainbow 🌈 effect. Thanks
Thank you again. Your calming voice in the chaos is wonderful and you give me courage to stretch and grow my skills. I have a few of my husbands shirts that are flimsy and was wondering how to deal with them. Right on time with the advice!
Hooray! Glad it is helpful (and that you find my voice calming.) 🥰❤️
Good evening Martin Family 🤗
Good morning, Elizabeth! 😊
Hi Cathy thanks again . I am learning sooooo much from you very timely vids , cheers Pat nz Ps love your blouse !!! Would make a nice quilt !!!!
Thank you, Pat! And yes, I thought the same thing about my shirt! 😊
Wonderful advice and suggestions about dealing with thin and wonky fabrics Cathy! Thank you for such a clear and helpful segment. I’m sure you saved quilters a lot of frustration. 👍🏼
And it’s so nice to see you feeling better since the accidents. You, your daughter and your family have been in my thoughts daily. Hope you both have recovered, are well and that replacement cars are all worked out. Such a scary time. Hugs and continued best wishes. ❤️❤️
Thank you Shannon for writing this. It’s all exactly what I wanted to say & you did it so well.
Thank you, Shannon! I am feeling more myself, for sure! I'm fine, my oldest is still a little sore, tense and achy, but on the mend! And rental cars for us both so now we can get around---onward and upward! 👍🏻 Thank you for your kind thoughts for our recovery; I cherish them and am grateful every day for both of us not sustaining major injuries! ❤️
My grandpa has shirts that are now threadbare. I plan to use them along with my grandma's shirts to make memory bears. I'll be using featherweight interfacing on most of the materials I'll be using.
I don't often use fitted sheets on account of the increased chance of threadbare sections. If I do plan to repurpose fabric from a fitted sheet, I always test the strength of the fabric by systematically pulling small sections both ways on the grain all the way from top to bottom and side to side all over the sheet. Threadbare sections will rip apart very easily. I then use only the sections that pass the pull test (and by pulling, I'm not rending it like I'm playing tug-of-war with a rabid hyena - just pulling enough to test the strength of the threads).
When I acquire fitted sheets from a thrift store, I never really know what I'm getting and I find that they almost always have sections that fail the pull test. I'd rather have a sheet rip to shreds and show itself to be completely unusable early on than to have that fabric come undone after I've sewn it into a quilt.
I agree! Better for it to rip beforehand and know than to get it in a quilt only for it to fall apart later!😱
Hmmmm, when you first came on camera, all I could focus on (besides your beautiful smiling face) was your blouse. I have decided that, yes, it would look great in a quilt! You have created a happy monster in me as I look at clothing so differently now. Sending hugs ❤
Thanks, Mary Beth! It was a thrift store find! 🤩
One more thing - you two are adorable together as witnessed in the outtakes at the end. ❤
Oh Kathy you have answered so many questions. I am getting ready to finish some lap blankets and feel more prepared to do so. Keep up the good work.
Oh yay! Thank you, Mary Ann! ❤️
Love Liberty Tana Lawn 🥰 but I’m equally happy with the quilts I make with shirts and other fabrics 👍 Good advice for handling thinner/flimsy fabrics 👏 Thanks 👏👏🇬🇧 Take great care of each other.
Thank you, Glynis!❤️
Will men’s shirt quilts wear out faster, since it is thin fabric?
Thanks again for a very informative video!! I have not used a lot of shirts in my quilting, but recently I used some printed quilters cotton and some batiks in the same quilt. I needed to starch the quilters cotton, where I did not with the batiks so that piecing the two together would work with better seems and less slippage. The batiks often have small amounts of wax left over in the fabric which gives it the body that printed fabrics do not.
I'm sure those quilting cottons benefitted from the starch when being paired with the batiks! So smart! 🤓👍🏻
Thank you so much for this advice! I hadn't considered the differences or the issues with working with thin shirt fabrics. I have used a thin shirt fabric on a quilt without hesitation and made it work. I did find it a challenge to quilt it so I quilted it less densely than I wanted because of the puckering issue. You have made my next quilt more successful for sharing your knowledge. Thank you!
I was at a loss for words on your last video. I'm so glad you and your daughter are safe and healing. And i was equally heartbroken for the lady who lost her son. Your caring, wisdom and positivity, no matter the subject, is a blessing to us that watch your videos. Y'all are a bright light in a dark world. ❤ Michelle
Thank you, Michelle. ❤️ And I'm glad that this video was helpful for you!!
I’m with you on interfacing. I love making quilts with cotton/natural fibers. Don’t like the idea of a synthetic in my work.
I really needed this video- doing EPP with some sweet cotton poly gingham now and then. I wanted to strengthen those flowers as much as possible.
Oh yay! So glad it was helpful for you! ❤️
I just wanted to say thank you for this video! you had all the answers I was looking for! now I know how to fix the problem I was having!
Hooray! ❤️ And you're welcome! 3 cheers for problem solving! 🤓
Thank you for this fantastic information! You're presentation was GREAT! Going to check out your "starch" video.😊 Have a great day!
Aww, thank you, Rebecca! And I hope you have a great day too! ❤️
Thank you ! I’m making my first quilt using shirting and was concerned about making the different weights work together. Now I have so many solutions.
Oh yay! I'm glad this video was helpful to you! Every time I use a "new" thrift store fabric, I learn something and want to share so everyone else learns, too! ❤️
I watched Fallon Caldwell's video just prior to yours. She also addressed pressure foot adjustments! I never considered doing that. My Janome is dialed to AUTO, and I assumed that the pressure on the fabric piece would automatically adjust. Two pieces of advice right in a row, makes me think otherwise. Thank you for sharing your journey. And I like that you have a lot to say about it!
Sew Be It Quilts your tube video
Funny how the "universe" will make sure you get the info you need, isn't it?
Oh wow! I was supposed by this! More good information for sure. I need to press more thoughtfully and not slide my iron so much. But I just had an idea to use some of my plaids on the diagonal to same myself some stress 😬. I know it will be a totally different look but I’m an improv quilter and I’m fine with that. Thank you! 💕
I am constantly working against my nature when ironing!! And my next plaid cutting/piecing video will be about cutting it on the bias!! ❤️
@@TheCatBirdQuilts I meant ‘surprised’ not ‘supposed’ 🙄
So helpful as per usual!
oh thank you! ❤️
I use a lightweight pellon stabilizer on my tea shirt quilts. Then when I stipple on the quilt as I'm quilting I have no problems and they are soft. But, I think you're talking about different quilt making. Thanks for video. You are such a blessing
Thank you, Jeanette! Definitely interfacing t-shirts is super helpful if not a must! Not usually necessary in a regular non-knit quilt tho.😘
Thanks Cathy for all the great tips!! 🥰👏🏻
I made a memory quilt for my son for his grad out of his old tshirts and used interfacing that I think was too thick. I used the cuddle fleece for the backing. The blanket is a bit too stiff I don’t think I would use that again and it’s quite heavy…but thankfully he loves the quilt so happy about that…but definitely learned for next time. The problem with tshirts is they stretch quite a bit. I think I would try using starch. Or else for sure a much lighter interfacing.
Charity, I think if you're using t-shirts (or any knits, really) you almost have to use interfacing to get it to keep the shape for piecing. But maybe featherweight would work better?
@@TheCatBirdQuilts yeah good point. 👍🏻☺️
Great, thoughtful advise!!!
I’ve recently learned something new - thank you Cathy! A few videos ago you mentioned that you starch your fabric before cutting - I’ve been doing that and love it!!! I have also learned to add a little bit more while I am piecing. Starch is my go to! (With the exception of making t-shirt quilts and that is a whole nother can of worms!) Loved this video CatBird!
Thanks, Christina!! Starch really makes cutting and piecing so accurate and enjoyable! ❤️
Your shirt game continues to be on point! This is all such great advice. I used to be so against starch because of my associations with it. But you've converted me, and I think I'm going to start using it in sewing clothing as well, at least for some applications. Old dogs learning new tricks, I guess.
("I don't know what I got goin' on, but..." Story. Of my. LIFE, my friend. We don't know, but we've sure got it! Whatever "it" is, folks seem to like it. Thanks for being you!)
Thanks, Steff!
Hi Cathy 👋 what a great database of knowledge you are creating here! I love our hive mind ♥
When tracing sewing patterns, I use a very lightweight fusible interfacing. It's thinner than a tissue, and quite soft. I usually buy 10 metres at a time because I find it useful to have on hand . If memory srves its from Birch...buts 4.35 am, our clocks have changed back to regular time and goodness only knows why im awake! I imagine that other quilters would be able to get something similar at Joann's or Michael's. Buying it in yardage is cheaper than buying it in packets generally speaking.
It's good to see you looking brighter. Thinking of you and your dear ones ♥
Thanks, again for another very comprehensive video. I think I would have to be SUPER in love with a ‘thin’ fabric to use it in a quilt, but when I do find that fabric (you KNOW the next time I’m thrifting, it will happen!) I’ll know where to find your recommendations on how to successfully work with it.
Truth! I do tend to avoid thin shirts (now) except for linen, which I will always buy!!
I am apt to throw out anything that is too thin, or has poly in it. Just because I don't want to deal with it! I want to enjoy my sewing time, and fighting with naughty fabric isn't fun. 😁Good video. Lots of good explanations. ❤
I'm getting more and more that way, myself, Robin. Although....linen! 😂🤩
@@TheCatBirdQuilts Lol, yeah, linen...🤣
my problem is that i have so many beautoful quiltimg fabrics but they are see through! which feels like a scam, because quilting fabric is expensive to begin with so id expect it to not be so see through. i might as well have bough shirts or a bed sheet. but i think i might try dpubling the fabric which will make it quite thick and then maybe i dont need batting. im not trying to make an especially thick blanket so that might work well. thanks for the tips !
Another problem with interfacing is the adhesive can partly wash out and the cotton fabric will bubble. I have a commercial blouse where this happened and it is unsightly. It originally looked pristine so the interfacing was adhered uniformly at first.
Jeanette, I had not thought of that but you are right! I had a shirt that the collar did exactly that and it was very unsightly as well (stealing your perfect word choice!) Thanks for sharing! ❤️
@TheCatBirdQuilts @jeanette6396
Here are some more observations about fusibles from my garment sewing years. Forgive me for proselytizing? Three main reasons for fusibles buckling or bubbling and I will outline then here with some suggestions. The people who make and sell fusibles will tell you bubbling is caused by “user error”. And if you go back to your instructions to check you might find that suggestion has merit. I am going to generalize because there are so many brands and the adhesive characteristics/quality differ widely if you look at just the brands that are considered “good quality”. Getting the best results requires a good iron - one that has an accurate thermostat so you know the temperature in the soleplate is accurate with respect to what you have set it at. It also helps if it’s not a steam iron. This might surprise you but it’s better to use a silk organza press cloth and a spray mister to create steam. The transparency of the silk organza makes it easier to see the edges of the fusible. And silk organza is one of the cheaper types of silk. The current batch of silk organza that I’m using was $5.99 a meter. (I checked just now and it is about $14) I usually buy the amt of yardage to make a square. I typically find it in 54” or 60” widths. I cut that up with a pinking shears and put a small grommet in one corner so I can hang it on the pegboard. That yardage that will make 4 large press cloths but you might want to make them to suit what interfacing you typically use. Years ago I found a vintage iron that has no steam holes in the bottom. With a pressing cloth and a spray or mist of water this does such a great job.
Once you are all set to fuse there are still a few things you need to think about. First, make sure your iron has reached the fusing temperature. It’s so easy to jump the gun out of our impatience a place the iron down to fuse when it is almost hot enough. Don’t forget that as soon as you hit the pressing surface the iron soleplate will cool quickly and dramatically due to the damp press cloth and the room temp surface you are pressing on. So make sure your iron is ready before you begin. Next, do a light tap, tap tap with your iron so that you are “tacking” the interfacing in place. Then you can go back and do the longer fusing for however many seconds your interfacing suggests. If you buy the interfacing that comes on a roll with the plastic that has the instructions on it make sure you keep at least one repeat of the instructions and read them to remind yourself every time you fuse. I roll my interfacing onto a gift wrap tube and i safety pin the instructions to the top of the cardboard tube and push the instructions into the hollow center. When you are doing the longer fusing you place the iron down and leave it for the correct amount of time, then lift and place the iron on the next place. Sliding the iron is not recommended because you will distort the fabric and you might detach some of the adhesive from where it had already started to stick. Once an area has been completely fused allow it to cool completely before shifting the fabric. Lifting or sliding the fabric will distort the fused area and might also break the glue bonds that had formed before they get a chance to set. All of those steps are on the instruction sheets but often we rely on our memory and leave things out.
Another area of user error is buying off brand types of interfacing. Just like sale bin threads, inexpensive interfacing is no bargain and is often the biggest cause of bubbling. You might notice with those brands that many of the tiny glue dots have fallen off in the packaging or onto your ironing surface. Plus these brands put less glue on their interfacing to begin with and if I were guessing they also use a lower quality of adhesive.
On the surface most of the brand name fusibles do an adequate job of fusing to your fabric if you do a really good job of fusing. But there are other brands that can be found. I used to read the blog of a custom shirt maker who bought her interfacing in large amounts and would share it with her readers. The beauty of this interfacing was that it was 60” wide compared to the usual 15” or so that typical interfacing is made in. That’s the width most usable for garment sewing. We aren’t sewing garments. Also this interfacings glue was so fine and so densely spread that there were more glue dots that were closer together which leaves fewer places without any glue on them. This was one custom shirt maker who would sell some of her own stash to make it more affordable to buy. I still have quite a lot and I’m dreading running out because I don’t know where to look for it.
Oops I just checked and it looks like her sewing site is still there. Her Off-the-cuff blog is still out there but there are no more recent issues one the site. Last I checked she was fighting severe illness - I think it her second occurrence of breast cancer. So I will give you what is out there for contact info and if you want to give it a try. She used to sell sample packs - smaller cuts of each of the types of interfacing she sells. Her storefront is Fashion Sewing Supply and the products are Pro Sheer fusible and there seems to be a sample pack of 9 pieces of all the types she sells. (@TheCatbirdQuilts - if you this is not allowed please delete - I shared because I really love this interfacing) oops looks like I had a lot to say about it!
@@conniemurdoch8528this is so helpful thank you !
Often the projects I am asked to make use both cotton dress shirts and jersey/t-shirt knits. Have you ever used starch on a knit or an athletic poly shirt? I have never used starch because it seems messy and I don't want to gum up my iron plate. Starching seems like a lot of work. However ironing on fusible is also a lot of work. I have been alternatively using a tricot nylon fusible which has a slight stretch and is very thin and a thin cotton woven interfacing, but some of the drape is lost on the knits and can pull away over time making it look lumpy. I have successfully used a fusible fleece on very thin, threadbare shirts for memory bears/animals. It works great and holds up to stuffing, while preserving the memory of the fabric. Thank you for your videos each week.
Patricia, I haven't!! And I'm not sure how starch would work on an athletic poly shirt! 😱 Knits are challenging for sure (!!) for all the reasons you gave and then some!! I'm so very impressed by creatives like you that can use varying types of fabrics and textiles! 🤩
I also find there's a third (fourth?) category of unstable fabrics.... low weave density. I've found especially at big box stores, usually in the character prints, the fabric uses nice thick threads, but so loosely that it unravels faster than i can work with it, and does all the warping and pulling things that a thin fabric will do! plus all the disadvantages of having just a small number of unravelled threads threatens your seam allowance... it's super annoying to find.
Katie, you are SO right---for all of the reasons you named! Low quality oxford cloth shirts are very like this--especially that thing where just a few threads raveling cuts into your seam allowance! 😱 Super frustrating.
Another great video! Cathy the whips video you did was great! one question? am I completely out of control quilter
Halfway through the video I started to imagine the stripes on your shirt as Quilt fabric and started making pizza like triangle slices and rotating etc.. Lol I'm a crazy Quilter
I think we all think like that! At least I do!! 😂
If you're hand quilting, interfacing can make it a little more difficult also. Love that shirt!
Thanks, Ingrid! And YES, I can totally see that!
There is 100% cotton (except for the glue dots) iron on fusible available in white or black, from Pellon. I think it’s 101. I used it when I was incorporating some T-shirt designs into a quilt.
Out of curiosity I searched for 100% cotton interfacing and found there are quite a few available now. I’ve only used the Pellon because it was available locally, and it worked exactly as I wanted it to do.
That is so good to know!! Thanks for sharing! 😊👍🏻🤓
Pelion SF101 is a woven fusible…it works in these situations much better than even featherweight fusible…especially if you pay attention to fabric grain and match it in the fabric and interfacing
I bought a quilt topper in excellent condition. It is made of men’s shirts and is crisp, probably already starched. My question is won’t the men’s shirt fabric where out quickly, because it is thin? Do I need to put another piece of fabric behind it, before the batting?
I haven't had any issues with the quilts I've made with shirts. I use my first quilt every day (it stays on my bed) and I wash it routinely---no signs of fraying, wearing out, or becoming threadbare and it's about 3 years old. So I would say "no" to your question. But trust your gut. If it feels very worn in certain areas, it won't hurt to interface it before you put together your quilt sandwich.
Lots of great tips and ideas as usual but I personally just tend to shy away from using really thin fabrics. Love your linen shirt backdrop and your scrap baskets! Could you share a link for the baskets?
Thanks! And yes, here they are:
www.ikea.com/us/en/p/pudda-basket-70429649/
I heard of boiling sugar and water and using it like starch. Also mix Vodka - one third, and 2 thirds water, with a drop of essential oil. They both wash out.
What the best way to starch fabric.
1. Drench fabric with starch and press ?
2. Drench fabric and lay flat on cookie rack and let dry overnight?
I’ve heard of some who starch heavily and leave to dry overnight on a folding wooden rack. This seams like this method would cause some distortion, or I’m I overthinking this? Oh by the way, as a sidebar, I could watch White Christmas every month too. In our household, we do have a few Christmasy things that are up all year. Little things.
I drench and let dry (flat) overnight, and that works the best for me. I have used a laundry drying rack, but it does distort the fabric around the area that was over the drying rack bar. Sometimes it irons out and sometimes the fabric stays a bit warped so I try not to do that with whole shirt pieces.🤓👍🏻
Great tips! So much information, my head is spinning. I think I will just avoid buying the thin fabrics…! However, I do have some old quilt tops made of thin fabrics, and I wonder how hard it will be to interface the whole entire back of it! Especially when the sewing wasn’t great and some of the seams may not be laying flat.Hmmm …
And lucky you having such a nice husband that knows exactly what to buy you for gifts! 😀
Could silk be considered “flimsy”? TY for this video 🎉
You're welcome! I haven't had ANY experience sewing silk, but I think it's a whole other thing entirely!
@@TheCatBirdQuilts TY! Maybe I will stay away from it for quilting…I’m a beginner at best 😂… I was thinking of doing a memory quilt and some of the shirts are silk. But there’s linen and cotton too so I can stick to that 😊
Oooh I nearly missed it
Cathy, I am confused
I understand interfacing is recommended for Jean quilts when you add a flannel or cotton fabric to keep the thickness even.
Don't be confused, Pamela. When I talk about one of the pros for interfacing is helping thicken it up so it pairs well next to a thicker fabric---that's exactly what I'm talking about. It matches the thickness of the jeans. (Which I haven't made a quilt from yet, but that's the theory!)
👍❤️🙂
I understand that with memory quilts, you may need fusible interfacing. However, I would pass on thrift shirts that are thin, no matter how pretty the color.
The thing that bugs me most is the variance in weight. My next lawn top will be 100% lawns to eliminate that.
It does bug me too, Amy. Alas. (and once it's all quilted, you can barely tell. and only if you were really looking for it.)
Do
How to work with this, just don't. Commons sence In a senseless world. Loal.
LOL, Georgia! Sometimes you just want those thin fabrics to work though! 😘