Well done. A lot of people I see on videos, or the ones leaving comments only echo what they have heard. Working with exotic woods taught me to climb cut here and there to save the work (just like you said). MOST of the nay sayers have never made anything out of a piece of wood that costs $500. Like routing the edge of a round teak table. It will make one a believer!!
Couple of tips to make it even safer: 1) Us a fence or pin 2) start a few inches from the end and climb cut to the end, then move back a couple more inches from where you started and start climb cutting to the first point. Keep repeating this till you’ve climbed cut the whole edge a couple inches at a time. Since you’re always climb cutting towards an already cut section, if the bit does grab, it can only do so for the few inches between the bit and the already cut section.
I’m a believer that a lot of dangerous tasks on power tools are advanced techniques. The higher the danger level the more advanced the technique. Common sense says you don’t do stuff like that if you’re not prepared and Jodee is ready. He fully explains why things are dangerous, the steps taken to minimize it and then puts it into demonstration. Great job Jodee. Also even if you’ve got the slightest hint of fear or unease doing anything it’s advisable that you don’t do whatever your about to do.
Excellent advice Jodee, you nailed this one. Climb cutting the rabbets for bottoms of small boxes I build is the only way to avoid tearout on them. Also, it's very refreshing and appreciated to see a video that doesn't spend a hefty portion of it begging for likes and subscribes. There's no need for that with videos like yours; the quality of the video itself earns those well-deserved likes and subs. Keep it up!
Thanks for the tutorial. I have never done it. Making gradual cuts has served my needs thus far. I recall I had to cut 14 stair treads that were curved like your shelves.
Beautifully explained. I do most of my work on the router table this way to prevent tearouts. It's not dangerous especially when using a proper fence and a proper grip on the workpiece as you demonstrated. The majority of my roundovers on tables are also climb cuts for the same reason. A half-bite with each pass is recommended. No tearouts!
Great explanation. You were very clear and I appreciate how you did not negate or ignore the potential for “router kickback” - you simply explained the way climb cuts are made as safely as possible.
Very helpful and wisely informative, thanks again for all the knowledge and inspiration in the past year. Have a healthy and prosperous 2023. Cheers from MT
Great overview of how to perform a climb cut on a router table. One time and didn't keep it "on a leash" well enough so to speak, and it went airborne. Learned my lesson there. I like your idea of rubber push pads - grippy and will provide a lot more control.
Excellent advice. I would wholeheartedly agree with some of the comments. Almost everything we do in woodworking has a risk; evaluate the risk in terms of your experience. Climbing cutting has greater risks but is manageable. Extremely effective hand grips (those grout trowels are a great idea) and take several shallow cuts.
Been doing router passes like that for more than 30 years. I was told it was kline cutting but that could be typical mispronounciation. Regardless, I never found it dangerous, counter rotation will just push the piece away from the bit. Taking small reverse passes removes material without tearout and then you take a final pass in the right direction to finish your rout.
Great video. Clime cutting often leaves a superior cut but still avoid. My students occasionally do this and send a board flying and a new lesson in using a router table and router in general.
Whenever I've done a climb cut I keep the router table fences just slightly behind the bearing and adjusted them in as close as possible to the cutter. Another way is to clamp a thin board on the face of the fences, then with the router on carefully move the fence inwards creating a zero clearance fence. As mentioned in the video multiple light cuts is the is the way to go with this operation.
I was digging the grip pads you have. Although I love my Gripper, they can be a bit more slippery when working off the table saw. I will check these out. Great advice on router use. I firmly believe the biggest issue many encounter is biting off too much and overloading the bit.
Funny you doing those shaped boards. I was making that shape just yesterday. I was pattern shaping and the opportunity for pulling is very high. While I was careful usually curling a finger around the end of the table saw to allow the board to be pulled without my hand going with it. ( my router table is located in the saw). I might start using the grippers as your safety concerns are real.
Excellent information. A bit over dramatic though. However the information and message contained is very good. Yes, climb cutting can be dangerous but it is also necessary at times. But if done in the manner you have presented here it is a safe procedure. The tip on using the grout floats is outstanding.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great New Year and stay safe. Dust mask and safety glasses, everybody. 🙂🙂
I was looking at those "push" pads and thinking they look familiar but not in a woodworking sense. When you mentioned you got them from a big box store then it hit me where I saw them. Thanks for the info.
They are probably far cheaper than wood working push pads. I might get 1 or 2 as well. That's my take away from this video. I might not do climb cut, but saving money on the push pad is good idea.
Great tutorial! I agree with everything you said, and I think Peter Wall below mentioned that advanced techniques usually entails more risk... great comment add. I've had too many project re-do's because the router chipped out wood, so I've learned the climb cut. What I'd offer as an opinion is that I'd see the router table as safer for climbs than a handheld, especially if you're using a full-size router and not a palm router. That opinion, of course, to include all your safety considerations most especially the grippy push pads. Keep the great content coming!
i don't often do it as like you say it want's to skid backwards, i prefer to just take my time pushing towards the cutter, especially on a spindle molder. seen too many joiners with just a thumb and part of a little finger... it's just not worth losing limbs for.
Excellent video. I understand your emphasis on hazards of climb cutting. Climb cutting will also make the router "wander", if you are not careful, when routing within a board such as a dado or rabbet. Safety and Liability are BIG concerns. You use a QEP 10069 with a polypropylene base. The Amazon link you posted is to a Goldblatt with a gum rubber base. Which base material do you recommend; polypropylene or gum rubber? I have an idea about adding a "finger" on one end of a float to hook over the end of a board for routing/cutting. It would be moveable and sacrificial. Thanks for the great videos you post. I have enjoyed and learned from all of your videos I have watched.
I guess I’ve been doing this for many years, we’ll say around 3-4 hrs per week regularly, haven’t had a kick back yet but I have a healthy fear of my tools as well
Great video. Here’s (maybe) a dumb question: Why not use the router conventionally with the material clamped in place? You would still have to flip the piece to get both edges but it seems the advantage would be gripping and controlling the router instead of the material.
I'mma share my super secret router tip for absolutely 0 routing failures: I leave it in the corner of the shop and never use it cause it scares the bejeezes out of me. Haven't had a failure since!
With some woods (particularly ash and oak as Jodee mentioned) you can get chip out at any point along the board that has grain in the wrong direction, not just the ends.
So why not just build handles that push down on the board that are attached to a moveable stop fence on the end of the board. Like a kind of like putting a t square on the end and the long edge sits over top of the board
If you use a proper guard/dust extractor, there is no way climb cutting will injure you. because the guard will not allow your hands to get anywhere near the cutter. Plus you won't be breathing in all that nasty dust. Notice, I said a proper guard, not just the fence that came with the router table - you really need to make one of these guards yourself for the table.
Well done. A lot of people I see on videos, or the ones leaving comments only echo what they have heard. Working with exotic woods taught me to climb cut here and there to save the work (just like you said). MOST of the nay sayers have never made anything out of a piece of wood that costs $500. Like routing the edge of a round teak table. It will make one a believer!!
Couple of tips to make it even safer: 1) Us a fence or pin 2) start a few inches from the end and climb cut to the end, then move back a couple more inches from where you started and start climb cutting to the first point. Keep repeating this till you’ve climbed cut the whole edge a couple inches at a time. Since you’re always climb cutting towards an already cut section, if the bit does grab, it can only do so for the few inches between the bit and the already cut section.
I’m a believer that a lot of dangerous tasks on power tools are advanced techniques. The higher the danger level the more advanced the technique. Common sense says you don’t do stuff like that if you’re not prepared and Jodee is ready. He fully explains why things are dangerous, the steps taken to minimize it and then puts it into demonstration. Great job Jodee. Also even if you’ve got the slightest hint of fear or unease doing anything it’s advisable that you don’t do whatever your about to do.
Excellent advice Jodee, you nailed this one.
Climb cutting the rabbets for bottoms of small boxes I build is the only way to avoid tearout on them.
Also, it's very refreshing and appreciated to see a video that doesn't spend a hefty portion of it begging for likes and subscribes. There's no need for that with videos like yours; the quality of the video itself earns those well-deserved likes and subs. Keep it up!
and the part i hate the most about those other videos, they ask for a like and subscribe AT THE BEGINNING of the video.
I knew about the tear out, but I never asked "why?" That was a perfect explanation. Thanks
Thanks for the tutorial. I have never done it. Making gradual cuts has served my needs thus far. I recall I had to cut 14 stair treads that were curved like your shelves.
Grout floats! Yes! That's a great idea!
Beautifully explained. I do most of my work on the router table this way to prevent tearouts. It's not dangerous especially when using a proper fence and a proper grip on the workpiece as you demonstrated. The majority of my roundovers on tables are also climb cuts for the same reason. A half-bite with each pass is recommended. No tearouts!
The when and why is just as important as how in this video thanks.
Great explanation. You were very clear and I appreciate how you did not negate or ignore the potential for “router kickback” - you simply explained the way climb cuts are made as safely as possible.
Your video has taught me so much about how to use the router safely, it is scary at the best of times.
Another great class. When I watch your videos, I’m back in shop class but with a more educated teacher. Great job
Very helpful and wisely informative, thanks again for all the knowledge and inspiration in the past year. Have a healthy and prosperous 2023. Cheers from MT
Excellent advice. And very timely with all the router table mishaps being posted recently.
Great overview of how to perform a climb cut on a router table. One time and didn't keep it "on a leash" well enough so to speak, and it went airborne. Learned my lesson there. I like your idea of rubber push pads - grippy and will provide a lot more control.
Excellent advice. I would wholeheartedly agree with some of the comments. Almost everything we do in woodworking has a risk; evaluate the risk in terms of your experience. Climbing cutting has greater risks but is manageable. Extremely effective hand grips (those grout trowels are a great idea) and take several shallow cuts.
Thumbs up on the grout floats. I use them and they ARE great grippers.
Great vid and grout tool tip thanks 😊 happy new year mate 🎉
Grout floats make great sanding blocks as well. Triple fold a full sheet and the grit holds it in place
Been doing router passes like that for more than 30 years. I was told it was kline cutting but that could be typical mispronounciation. Regardless, I never found it dangerous, counter rotation will just push the piece away from the bit. Taking small reverse passes removes material without tearout and then you take a final pass in the right direction to finish your rout.
Great video. Clime cutting often leaves a superior cut but still avoid.
My students occasionally do this and send a board flying and a new lesson in using a router table and router in general.
Nicely said. Wish I had seen this before I ruined my walnut and maple board... Thank you for your effort.
I like how your videos just end with you just telling it like it is.
Whenever I've done a climb cut I keep the router table fences just slightly behind the bearing and adjusted them in as close as possible to the cutter. Another way is to clamp a thin board on the face of the fences, then with the router on carefully move the fence inwards creating a zero clearance fence. As mentioned in the video multiple light cuts is the is the way to go with this operation.
Great video!
You continue to set the bar high for yourself and all the other creators!
Great insight on how to do it safely.
Thanks again.
I was digging the grip pads you have. Although I love my Gripper, they can be a bit more slippery when working off the table saw. I will check these out. Great advice on router use. I firmly believe the biggest issue many encounter is biting off too much and overloading the bit.
Funny you doing those shaped boards. I was making that shape just yesterday. I was pattern shaping and the opportunity for pulling is very high. While I was careful usually curling a finger around the end of the table saw to allow the board to be pulled without my hand going with it. ( my router table is located in the saw). I might start using the grippers as your safety concerns are real.
I liked the video and found myself wondering about how to learn to "read" the grain to know when I am going to want to do a climb cut.
Excellent information. A bit over dramatic though. However the information and message contained is very good. Yes, climb cutting can be dangerous but it is also necessary at times. But if done in the manner you have presented here it is a safe procedure. The tip on using the grout floats is outstanding.👍👍Thank you for sharing. Have a great New Year and stay safe. Dust mask and safety glasses, everybody. 🙂🙂
Another good one. Compact, informative, level-headed. It’s okay to “break the rules” if you understand why they’re rules, I guess?
I was looking at those "push" pads and thinking they look familiar but not in a woodworking sense. When you mentioned you got them from a big box store then it hit me where I saw them.
Thanks for the info.
They are probably far cheaper than wood working push pads. I might get 1 or 2 as well. That's my take away from this video. I might not do climb cut, but saving money on the push pad is good idea.
@@ipick4fun27 Ya, I agree. They look like a cheaper alternative to a dedicated woodworking push pad.
Fantastic, dude! Thanks a bunch for the tutorial! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!
I've done it a few times, as a very light final finishing cut after starting a bit high.
Thanks for the tips, I’m going to start incorporating this into all of my projects!
Great information once again, thank you.
ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW TO LEARN...THANKS
Great teaching method!
I've been using a starter stick to help with climb cutting.
I appreciate your safety videos- thanks
good stuff. thanks!
Great tutorial! I agree with everything you said, and I think Peter Wall below mentioned that advanced techniques usually entails more risk... great comment add. I've had too many project re-do's because the router chipped out wood, so I've learned the climb cut. What I'd offer as an opinion is that I'd see the router table as safer for climbs than a handheld, especially if you're using a full-size router and not a palm router. That opinion, of course, to include all your safety considerations most especially the grippy push pads. Keep the great content coming!
Hey, are those grout floats? That’s a great idea!
Using grout floats as push blocks in genius. The soft rubber surface gives plenty of grip.
Excellent video. Thanks for the lesson.
good video... only nit i have is not mentioning that inside cuts are backwards feed but this is an advanced technique so it’s not a huge one
Common sense applied to any job makes it safer. Great advice as usual. Happy New Year to you and yours!
i don't often do it as like you say it want's to skid backwards, i prefer to just take my time pushing towards the cutter, especially on a spindle molder. seen too many joiners with just a thumb and part of a little finger... it's just not worth losing limbs for.
Excellent video. I understand your emphasis on hazards of climb cutting. Climb cutting will also make the router "wander", if you are not careful, when routing within a board such as a dado or rabbet. Safety and Liability are BIG concerns.
You use a QEP 10069 with a polypropylene base. The Amazon link you posted is to a Goldblatt with a gum rubber base. Which base material do you recommend; polypropylene or gum rubber?
I have an idea about adding a "finger" on one end of a float to hook over the end of a board for routing/cutting. It would be moveable and sacrificial.
Thanks for the great videos you post. I have enjoyed and learned from all of your videos I have watched.
Nice video. Thanks. What was the brand of those grout floats and where did you get them? Thanks again.
I think I’m going to try climb cutting in my jointer now….kidding of course. can you imagine 😬 Excellent demonstration as always
I guess I’ve been doing this for many years, we’ll say around 3-4 hrs per week regularly, haven’t had a kick back yet but I have a healthy fear of my tools as well
Great video. Here’s (maybe) a dumb question: Why not use the router conventionally with the material clamped in place? You would still have to flip the piece to get both edges but it seems the advantage would be gripping and controlling the router instead of the material.
Because the router has a great chance of being ripped out of your hands and have a live bit going somewhere randomly.
I'mma share my super secret router tip for absolutely 0 routing failures:
I leave it in the corner of the shop and never use it cause it scares the bejeezes out of me. Haven't had a failure since!
Why not climb cut only an inch at the end of the board, where tearout is likely to incur and then rout the rest of the cut in the proper direction?
With some woods (particularly ash and oak as Jodee mentioned) you can get chip out at any point along the board that has grain in the wrong direction, not just the ends.
That’s usually what I do.
So why not just build handles that push down on the board that are attached to a moveable stop fence on the end of the board. Like a kind of like putting a t square on the end and the long edge sits over top of the board
If you use a proper guard/dust extractor, there is no way climb cutting will injure you. because the guard will not allow your hands to get anywhere near the cutter. Plus you won't be breathing in all that nasty dust. Notice, I said a proper guard, not just the fence that came with the router table - you really need to make one of these guards yourself for the table.
May not injure you but send the piece flying across the shop.
stop moving material durring work = bad idea
Id risk tearout and avoid this. This is not my job, though.