I suspect you've been recommended because I watch photonicinduction, dont let him anywhere near that panel, he'll probably blow it up. Keep up the good work young fella's
You're right he would say hold my beer I'm fixing to crank it up to way stupid and laugh because that is what he does don't get me wrong I like his channel I like how he pushes things and teaches at the same time but he is not a electrician nor should he be around that size of box
Stripping cables. Brings back memories. First time I stripped a cable(35mm 4 core) I handled the knife the wrong way while stripping. Pulled it towards myself instead of pushing it away from me. The knife slipped out and I cut my thumb from the top to the base of the thumb, bleeding all over the place haha... Used insulation tape to tape it up. Dumb mistake that I never repeated again. Could have been much worse, glad it wasn't and can have a chuckle at my own dumb expense later on.
In UK, this is so different to US...Not even in the same ball park. Your "Industrial" is for us a 600-800 amp multi-dwelling service and even that is far more intricate. I love to watch how stuff is wired in different countries incase I ever move.
You know what you tell 'the boss' that wants you to do sub-standard work and ignore obvious wiring code violations without addressing the matters? (multiple issues still present after the feed to a new DB installed) You know what you tell the guy that quoted the job and failed to include addressing an unsafe installation, and then expected another tradesman to turn a blind eye to the flaws?
The CT metering wiring should have been totally removed and redone properly. Whoever installed that was a hack and had no idea what Standards apply to such circuits.
maybe I only find this incredibly enjoyable, because I'm an electrical engineer, but I believe we need more youtuber like this to get people into the cool parts of manual labour. This is so much cooler and more satisfying then most desk jobs... and even pays good if you are not afraid of actually working. Get into it people - I would have, if I didn't get the chance to step up into design and development.
At least stateside, it's a literal nightmare getting to the point where you're doing this sort of thing. Unless you're a licensed master electrician, you're going to be stuck doing most of the crappy parts of this kind of work. For every little comparative money, for a very long time. It takes longer in the US to become a master electrician than it does to become a nurse. He also cuts out most of the really unpleasant parts. Like getting the cabling in place, or cut. Not to mention doing this sort of work when it's 85+ degrees Fahrenheit and 90% humidity is plenty to get a lot of people out of the field pretty quick. Why would you WANT to work in godawful conditions for average pay at best?
@@Ornithopter470 simple answer: because you see what you have done at the end of the day... I only create a bunch of paper/data and hopefully every half year or so an actual finished design step, which is then printed and produced. Start to finish usually takes us - in my field of work - about 3 to 4 years. Its very hard to see progress in that kind of environment.... so most days are full of work and meetings that leave you brainfucked and you can't tell what was acomplished. don't get me wrong: I enjoy my job, its interesting, challenging, pays well and actually fun, most times. but getting home after only a couple of days, having finished something good looking as this, just lets you sleep better. and ultimately, this is sometimes more important, then making a little extra money. Also: Obviously I can't speak for the US, but in Europe (UK, Germany, etc) this kind of work actually doesn't pay that bad and its easier getting to a point where you are a master. There is a huge shortage of labour workers here and thus they can make quite big prices these days - so: get over here and enjoy the craft as its supposed to be :)
low or high it doesnt matter dont fuck around with any of it. in saying that this is still considered low voltage because its only 3 phase but high amps.
A couple of years ago we were demolishing two of our buildings at work which housed large technical facilities so each building had its own Ring Main Unit to isolate it from 11kV ring going round site and a dedicated transformer feeding each buildings switch rooms. When SSEN came to remove the RMUs and transformers they isolated the HV network further back on ring. So how do you prove an 11kV cable is dead before disconnecting it from RMU? Turns out you clamp what looks like a chisel to the outside of the cable, insert an explosive charge and pull a string to detonate, forcing said chisel through the insulation to short all the conductors together. What a fun day that was!
We use a high voltage tester attached to a hot stick with the 40cal suit on but we are doing maintenance. Once zero potential is confirmed the ground chains go on.
did the ring get rejoined? if you had a split ring then you would have resilience against an HV fault as you could switch out the faulty section at the RMU's
Is it just because it's an old panel that there isn't an insulated cover over the incomers to allow it to be opened up just by opening the isolator? Seems crazy to have to get the DNO in just because of the lack of an internal cover.!
@@residualelectrical Have to agree, I worked on something similar at Beamish Museum connecting into a Submain. Was getting pressure from the company not to isolate due to it knocking off a whole section of the open air museum (had to drive to the isolation point and call my apprentice so make sure I'd locked off the correct supply) opened the panel and found it similar to this no covers and just not a good idea to be throwing around socket sets etc in. My boss turned up and once he actually saw it opened up he backed down and agreed I'd made the correct call. Wasn't off for that long and was completed safely, sometimes you have to just stand your ground and do things right! The consequences for getting it wrong while working live just aren't worth it.
@@scottsparky1 working a 2000a switchgear hot is irresponsible, unnecessary and flat out stupid. The amount of arc flash incident energy in a 2000 amp cabinet is enough to vaporize you in a fraction of a second... Maybe you've never seen a nasty flash but it isn't pretty. Closed casket... It's never enough money or serious to warrant the risk...
I do work like this on a daily basis, which is fantastic and I really enjoy it, but I was sent to connect up a heating system today in a house, and did not have a clue. Haha. I am so out of touch with domestic wiring. Good work guys,
Yeah. Many years ago a driving instructor told me, "assume every other driver is having a really shitty day". I'm the only one in the house and I *still* check with the meter right after I am 100% sure I just turned off the correct breaker.
Unfortunately very common to find a new control panel with buzzing motor starters/contractors due to swarf. Here in the UK far too many electrical companies drill gland plates with hole saws while in place.
I'm not trade, but a 68 year-old who never gave a thought to the complexities and dangers of power supply. That was until a guy from Merlin Gerin dropped a huge spanner across the output of a diesel UPS he was commissioning for us (at one of Whitbread's old data centres). Hell's teeth! The mega-flash & bang which shook the building and killed all power stone dead for several hours. Nobody hurt but many new pairs of pants needed that day!
Hi Mike, Excellent installation as usual! Very explicit and informative! You and Cam work brilliantly as a team! Always look forward to your uploads. My go-to electrical channel! Bring on part two! Take care. See you next Sunday! 👍⚡️
Yeah, man. Here to absolutely commend you for you being a pro at a young age. I am in process of installing some 240mm2 Al myself right now. Brutal crimping job. Rock on!
I had to work a 2000 A 440 V panel hot. It was in a hospital and could not shut down the power. No, I am not crazy, just confident I know what I am doing.
Great video right up my street, as an Industrial Electr. Inspector for 50 y,AP Controller,Design Engineer inspector,Inspection and testing organizer, Manufacturer Inspections All over the world prior to delivery and finally signing off the completion Certs for some off the biggest jobs in the UK (all airports Including T5 new build,Power stations Hospitals and so on) but now sadly retired LOL.
I know what a flashover looks like. 45 years ago I was apprentice in a large engineering company. Our shop had a large switch room separated with a fireproof door with small window ,6" sq in it. An electricians apprentice was working outside in the yard ,digging tar seal out of a in ground cable duct. His pickaxe went straight into one of the cables ,he wasn't injured but the switch room exploded . The light from the arc ,through that tiny window, lit up our shop for an instant. There were several big boxes like that and all were fried.
You’ll only get a really good arc flash if you’re using ACBs of similar that are not fault limiting, once there’s a fuse in the circuit the energy let through is very limited.
Oldschool wire stripping with a knife, nice. Remembers me on me first job, 30 yrs ago in the (now demolished) Opel factory in Antwerp. We had an amazing time there as service technicians/electricians, servicing the car plant and general maintenance of the factory. Full continuous shifts 24/7.... My first real paid job, as an 19yr old earned around 60,000 Belgian francs wich was a fortune back then.....
I was an AT in the US Navy and the highest power I had to work with was 400V/20A for RADAR and related FC systems, but I respected the hell out of that 20A (and the voltage was pretty high too). 2KA is insane! With just a single volt of potential that would supply 2KW of electrical energy!
Good content 👍. FYI you are getting a “continuity” reading through the LV windings/ neutral earth connection. The transformer is only earthed on the HV side as part of the isolations 👍👍
Hi Nick, trying to understand a bit better. Why do the phases and Neutral/earth have continuity in the 10 point test? Like you said the HV was isolated, but on the LV side of the trany, even if each of the phases were isolated, wouldn't there be no continuity between the points he tested?
This is a channel for proper sparks, no twin and sling lifting floorboards like a melon head here! Did you do a proper industrial electrical install apprenticeship? Because you have a lot of well crafted skills very methodical, especially for a younger lad I’d have you on the rigs with me any day.
A couple years ago a shopping centre here in Australia had a similar setup with those fuses in that oil filled switch. They changed the fuses out and when they went back in they ended up getting damaged and shorting across the phases. It caused A massive arc flash and killed 2 of them and the 3rd guy was severely burned. Sad to hear it happened over there too
Got a picture on my phone of a board that blew in the night got a a call out next morn to take a peek, one side the fuse was loose and making a arc less than a 1mm but it grew and got hot then ended the panel took around 15mins start to finish
I would love a shed like that, with no power, in my council back garden - with a little ' Danger high voltage ' sign on the front and a luggage padlock on it.
The earth on the HV system has nothing to do with the LV terminals "ringing out". The HV windings are completely insulated from the LV. The LV transformer windings are of negligible DC resistance and as the transformer LV winding is star connected, you would be concerned if you didn't get a "short" between the connections on the incoming tails! are
@@residualelectrical From 60Hz Delta-Wye land here- I was surprised you 50Hz guys don't have lock-out tag-out rules, basically if YOU are working down stream from the [off] distribution Xfmr, YOUR [usually red] lock goes on the operating handle or door to get to the handle, YOU have the only key, thus preventing any stranger saying "huh, no power, i'll just turn it back on" while you're torquing inside the 2KA panel. If multiple workers are involved, a gang lock plate holds each persons lock and can't be opened until the last lock is removed. Thats always part of starting work safety briefings. Our 480V switchgear sure looks different even though it does the same functions - nice tour + fine work!
@@zaxmaxlax in the US, you must use your lock, your key - I saw the grid worker put on their lock & gave their keys to the worker, but that's not ok here because the workers don't know where all keys in existence are, like if the grid people use a common key. All US safety approved lock-out/tag-out locks are keyed different so nobody but the worker can remove his/her lock. The lock cylinders have extra pins to allow manufacturing different keys.
@@swsuwave Well, such lockout rules do apply here and the UK. That lockout has been applied at the HV isolator and tag applied. The Supply Authority guy that disconnected did that.
A personal tale: In the early 70's, I was helping install some equipment in a large warehouse. I asked the supervisor where the AC supply was and he pointed to a very large box on the wall. I opened it an saw that the fuzes were the size of beer cans and a notice said that it was 600v 3 phase. I wanted to determine if it was hot and I didn't have a volt meter on me, so I noticed some wire on the floor. I picked-up a 2 foot or so length of 1/0 ga. insulated and put it across the outer legs to see if I got a spark. This fireball jumped out of the box and covered me with molten Copper. It vaporized about a foot of wire in the process. I noticed later that there was a sub-station on the other side of the wall. I never made that mistake again.
Wow man your so lucky to be alive interesting tale tho it might help someone else to never do that , I remember tales of when blokes doing gas pipework checking for leaks with a lighter 😱 crazy times back in the day .
Nice work. Thanks for the vedio showing how to do it the right way. Its so good to see someone that takes pride in their work. You are a true craftsman.
The problem comes with international markets. If you bought a product from hungary and wanted to put a new plug on it, in the UK, in the US, in Russia and some of the balkan you would have made the chassis live because our red was earth while others used that for lives. Colours were absolutely all over the place. Also blue has been neutral for a good portion of europe since the early days, that really doesn't work well. These are the things that resulted in the current system.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 The problem is that the IEC standard colors are garbage. All of the colors are dark, and there is a very real risk of not just transposing phases but transposing a phase and neutral. I've seen old IEC color spec cable and distinguishing what wire is what is not easy. The old British colors (red/yellow/blue hots black neutral green ground) were much better. The American colors (black/red/blue hots white neutral green or bare ground for 120V/208V; black/red hots for 120V/240V single phase 3 wire; black/orange/red hots for 240V high leg delta; brown/orange/yellow hots gray neutral green or bare ground for 277V/480V; brown/purple/yellow hots for 480V high leg delta) are the best out there right now. White or gray neutral, green or bare ground, anything else may kill you.
@@randacnam7321 shamefully i have to admit in a rush on an events job with doors at opening 8am working in a dark cupboard i put phase to neutral and lets just say the client with a large array of tvs wasnt happy
@@randacnam7321 Quite frankly the US colour system is hot garbage so let's not even bring that up, most of all with cross-country compatibility. That's your opinion, okay, completely ignored what I said, that's fine but just think for 2 minutes. Like just for starters what if you end up with a UV damaged cable? Something can become white or grey in the summer sun of 10 years so it's an absolute no-go for a neutral colour, if it can be a faded live. Also yellow-green is the best thing for earth because that's the only patterned cable. Also blue and green fade the same way in the dirt and sun so you might end up with a blue live wire on earth then. Then there's monochromatic light, like old sodium lights where you cannot recognize colour, hue or saturation just brightness. There it will save your ass. You have no clue how colour or pigments work mate. All you want is colours that are mildly more convenient in the best possible case.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 In a lot of permanent building wire, ground isn't even insulated so fading can never be a problem. And our blue insulation is often a lot brighter than the blue used in IEC spec cable. The worst issue I've seen in fading is with yellow wire, and that is why 277V/480V uses gray as a neutral. Plus, American practice is to put wires where they can't easily fade. Even where they do, white and black are real easy to distinguish and red is still visibly pink. There are a lot of bright colors out there for wiring insulation, and one of my main greps with the IEC color spec is that they use none of them to contrast with the dark blue. And apply your LPS example to IEC colors: L1, L2 and neutral look identical. Even L3 may be hard to distinguish. The only thing I have no complaint about with IEC colors is the yellow green striped ground, and even then it could be improved as IEC spec says the stripe cannot twist around the cable. It should twist or at least have multiple smaller yellow stripes, as otherwise it can look like just green or just yellow in a bundle or loom.
I worked in six flags terminating a 60kw transformer and striping the insulation my razor slipped and cut my arterie. Love these videos I feel like I'm doing it watching you
Just came across this channel, nice content & craftsmenship on industrial work, makes a change from the house bashing channels. I just rewired my house & reminded myself exacly why i dont do domestic work anymore.
I was working on a panel that controlled two 100 HP motors thare was a buzzing I pushed in each contactor tighter still had a buzzing so I turned it off and the buzzing was behind me I turned around and looked and a large rattle snake was under the piping behind my leg I verry slowly moved out and got a shovel from my truck and chased it out of the building then went back to check out the control panel.
I feel so lucky I get to spec my own cable because tri-rated cable is a billion times easier to work with but saying that props to you dude. That was a nice tidy install.
Great video dude. How are you, hope you had a great holiday, and birthday, youve done a good job mate. You should do a video about going self employed and giving tips about it, just For those that are in The industry and wanna take The plunge, as itll give Them The info they need. Keep it up dude
Great video all too often the short cut is taken for all sorts of reason but you now know it's right👍 times I've been into big boards and it's very tempting to just get the lid back on proper job.
In the 80s I was a guard at ball glass..electrician had to drill into a live hugh box.. could not shut factory down.... the guy looked nervous...supervisor was a bit away.....
I always find that max size of heat shrink is double size of cable your putting it on, 98% of the time ,,get some glasses feller you don’t want to be best Sparkie on u tube that can’t see no more or lose a finger. I say again just go get a battery crimping machine so much easier..great video yet again
Nice old I-Line built like a tank. 230/400v system? That utility transformer looks a little scrawny. Always interesting to see how it’s done in other parts of the world, Milwaukee makes a beautiful power crimper.. worth every penny for the professional Crimps it turns out. Cheers from 🇨🇦.
I've done everything you did here only with the panel live the entire time, and I can't count how many times I've done it. I actually prefer to work panels live, it's keeps you sharp all the time. Also if my helper ever brought me an aluminum ladder into the electric room with an open panel it would be his last day.
Here in the Netherlands we have a ladder manufacturer who produces aluminum ladders coated clear, black or gray and they have a special line for electricians, they aren't aluminum but fibreglass. Yellow coloured. Don't know if that is the case in the video.
Nice to see some 'meaty' electrics. Can quite understand that you wouldn't want to be anywhere near those cables when livened up. I would be away standing in the next field!
I work with "low" voltage DC (400-800VDC) builds and building audio/video infrastructure in studios- I do the exact same thing as you: "No one is probably gonna open this after I bolt it up, but it deserves the TLC!" One of my mentors as a teen always told me "if your cable management is clean, it sounds better!" Respect the extra effort and time for sure, esp as someone who often has to repair things where previously people haven't taken such care. Random question: What are those black gloves you're wearing? They look like an excellent fit and durable for a thin work glove!
I used to love heavy mains work. You did a great job on the tidy and install. 👍 you are quite right about the isolation requirements I have witnessed someone seriously injured as a result of poor isolation.
Hey mate, awesome video! Just curious, did you do any testing on the existing 600A MCCB to see if it was still functional before doing the cable installation?
Nice video, brought back a few memories. May I ask why you didn't crimp the lugs onto the ends of the cables at the isolator switch before putting them in the trunking? That way it would've been a bit easier, and you could've chased the slack back towards the breaker.
And what happens if the lug face is twisted a few degrees out so it won't sit flat? Rotate the whole length of cable to get it right... or perhaps stick a screw driver in the bolt hole to twist force the cable stranding to comply? Do you do that sort of butchery to XLPE cables?
I'm curious, since it didn't seem to be covered in the video - are you required to do conductor length matching for all conductors within a single phase? I didn't see any attempt to match the amount cut off when landing those and it had me concerned. On such a short run in a cable tray my personal approach is to length match my cuts preinstall, land everything on the more challenging end first (likely the new panel in this install), then dress the cabling back towards the other end, cut both to minimum matched length needed and make use of the extra room in the larger panel to allow me to situate any extra length. At least here in the United States this is required per NFPA 70 310.10(h).
I don't think they do. Certainly don't in Aus or NZ which is where I'm from. For all practical purposes the mains cables will be within a few inches of each other anyway and besides it doesn't really matter because the transformer volts are always a but different on each phase anyway.
@@BigAmp I mean the multiple parallel conductors in a single phase leg here - they have several of each phase. If one is longer than the other it will carry less current, since resistance is proportional to length assuming same gauge on each parallel conductor, and this can result in enough current mismatch to overheat the shortest conductor under certain circumstances.
When the shortest conductor heats up it's resistance will increase until it is the same as the longest conductor and the current naturally balances out. In the NFPA they say "the same length" but they really don't specify a tolerance, is it ok with 10% difference? 1%? or must it be 0.0001%? My guess (but I did not calculate it) is that anything within a foot works fine as long as the cables are ran together (which is another requirement).
@@mrfrenzy. I usually aim within a certain percentage, the percentage having been chosen based on the factor of safety. If my total current capacity for all conductors is 20% over actual available current at OCPD, for example, I'm not gonna worry too much about a 10% mismatch in length from longest to shortest as it will result in about a 10% higher current in that wire and I'll still have about 10% headroom. But if the conductors are only 5% oversized then I am going to keep the mismatch in length under 5% for sure.
@@kenstein sounds completely reasonable, that gives you plenty of margin even though I don't think the actual overcurrent will be 10% in a 10% shorter cable once it starts to heat up.
Hi . Heavy duty job there jeez. What is the unit in the corner doing ? our factory has something similar with a breaker switch on the front . If this breaker tripped or someone knocked into it , as it by a door and very low down would it knock out the power to our factory do you think ? What is the purpose of it ? rgds Don
I suspect you've been recommended because I watch photonicinduction, dont let him anywhere near that panel, he'll probably blow it up. Keep up the good work young fella's
He'd for sure find a way to "crank it up stupid!"
You're right he would say hold my beer I'm fixing to crank it up to way stupid and laugh because that is what he does don't get me wrong I like his channel I like how he pushes things and teaches at the same time but he is not a electrician nor should he be around that size of box
@@chrisharlin4895 He is far more qualified to do what he does than an Electrician.....Far more
Andy would say we going to crank it right up till it pops---- I popped it he would say
"We've popped eit..."
Stripping cables. Brings back memories. First time I stripped a cable(35mm 4 core) I handled the knife the wrong way while stripping. Pulled it towards myself instead of pushing it away from me. The knife slipped out and I cut my thumb from the top to the base of the thumb, bleeding all over the place haha... Used insulation tape to tape it up. Dumb mistake that I never repeated again.
Could have been much worse, glad it wasn't and can have a chuckle at my own dumb expense later on.
this is def the best electrical channel on the tube. Proper Electrics mate
In UK, this is so different to US...Not even in the same ball park. Your "Industrial" is for us a 600-800 amp multi-dwelling service and even that is far more intricate. I love to watch how stuff is wired in different countries incase I ever move.
@@vlad1889 and my industrial would supersede yours. Try working on Mercury arc rectifiers 👏👏👏
@@vlad1889 US electrics is way easier than UK electrics - I’ve worked on both
I miss working on stuff like this, you know things are getting serious when the socket set comes out. Nice tidy up and finished job. 😀
The boss may go mental with the time spent, but WOW that panel now looks like it will be far easier to work in, trace, and care shows. Well done.
You know what you tell 'the boss' that wants you to do sub-standard work and ignore obvious wiring code violations without addressing the matters? (multiple issues still present after the feed to a new DB installed)
You know what you tell the guy that quoted the job and failed to include addressing an unsafe installation, and then expected another tradesman to turn a blind eye to the flaws?
@@BTW... what do you tell them?
@@Gringle_ lmao
@@Gringle_ I can tell you're a 12 year old edge lord lmao do yourself a favor and gtfo the internet and look at grass or something.
@@porscheGT652 You're projecting, you sillly little Billy!
Good on you for taking the time to sort out the small details. Like giving the wires tie-wrap supports and tidying up the CT wires.
The CT metering wiring should have been totally removed and redone properly. Whoever installed that was a hack and had no idea what Standards apply to such circuits.
maybe I only find this incredibly enjoyable, because I'm an electrical engineer, but I believe we need more youtuber like this to get people into the cool parts of manual labour. This is so much cooler and more satisfying then most desk jobs... and even pays good if you are not afraid of actually working. Get into it people - I would have, if I didn't get the chance to step up into design and development.
At least stateside, it's a literal nightmare getting to the point where you're doing this sort of thing. Unless you're a licensed master electrician, you're going to be stuck doing most of the crappy parts of this kind of work. For every little comparative money, for a very long time. It takes longer in the US to become a master electrician than it does to become a nurse. He also cuts out most of the really unpleasant parts. Like getting the cabling in place, or cut.
Not to mention doing this sort of work when it's 85+ degrees Fahrenheit and 90% humidity is plenty to get a lot of people out of the field pretty quick. Why would you WANT to work in godawful conditions for average pay at best?
@@Ornithopter470 simple answer: because you see what you have done at the end of the day... I only create a bunch of paper/data and hopefully every half year or so an actual finished design step, which is then printed and produced. Start to finish usually takes us - in my field of work - about 3 to 4 years. Its very hard to see progress in that kind of environment.... so most days are full of work and meetings that leave you brainfucked and you can't tell what was acomplished.
don't get me wrong: I enjoy my job, its interesting, challenging, pays well and actually fun, most times. but getting home after only a couple of days, having finished something good looking as this, just lets you sleep better. and ultimately, this is sometimes more important, then making a little extra money.
Also: Obviously I can't speak for the US, but in Europe (UK, Germany, etc) this kind of work actually doesn't pay that bad and its easier getting to a point where you are a master. There is a huge shortage of labour workers here and thus they can make quite big prices these days - so: get over here and enjoy the craft as its supposed to be :)
@@Ornithopter470 This is why you join the IBEW and go through the apprenticeship program.
I am quite aware of the IBEW's apprenticeship program. It's still pretty awful.
@@Ornithopter470 What local are you? 10,000 hours of training plus 64 hours of college credit all while getting paid is not awful.
High voltage is something you should never lose fear over, so that respect is never lowered. You do great work, thanks for sharing.
Meanwhile Im weary of working on my small 24v system
low or high it doesnt matter dont fuck around with any of it. in saying that this is still considered low voltage because its only 3 phase but high amps.
A couple of years ago we were demolishing two of our buildings at work which housed large technical facilities so each building had its own Ring Main Unit to isolate it from 11kV ring going round site and a dedicated transformer feeding each buildings switch rooms.
When SSEN came to remove the RMUs and transformers they isolated the HV network further back on ring. So how do you prove an 11kV cable is dead before disconnecting it from RMU? Turns out you clamp what looks like a chisel to the outside of the cable, insert an explosive charge and pull a string to detonate, forcing said chisel through the insulation to short all the conductors together. What a fun day that was!
yep it's called spiking
We use a high voltage tester attached to a hot stick with the 40cal suit on but we are doing maintenance. Once zero potential is confirmed the ground chains go on.
did the ring get rejoined? if you had a split ring then you would have resilience against an HV fault as you could switch out the faulty section at the RMU's
Beats 12' steel spike and 2 guys in flash suits one with spike, the other with sledge hammer.
@@letsgocamping88 - SSE put in an HV joint where ringmain units were to complete ring
Is it just because it's an old panel that there isn't an insulated cover over the incomers to allow it to be opened up just by opening the isolator? Seems crazy to have to get the DNO in just because of the lack of an internal cover.!
I've knocked up a bit of paxolin to go over the incoming terminals for such situations in the past - usually as a "U" shape to cover the sides too.
ive worked on them before and made a cover for the live terminals. you just have to watch what your doing its no big deal
@@residualelectrical Have to agree, I worked on something similar at Beamish Museum connecting into a Submain. Was getting pressure from the company not to isolate due to it knocking off a whole section of the open air museum (had to drive to the isolation point and call my apprentice so make sure I'd locked off the correct supply) opened the panel and found it similar to this no covers and just not a good idea to be throwing around socket sets etc in.
My boss turned up and once he actually saw it opened up he backed down and agreed I'd made the correct call.
Wasn't off for that long and was completed safely, sometimes you have to just stand your ground and do things right! The consequences for getting it wrong while working live just aren't worth it.
@@residualelectrical oh, in our area (CZ, distributor EG.D) we don't pay for shutdown. Same aplies for isolation of LV overhead line (e.g. roof work).
@@scottsparky1 working a 2000a switchgear hot is irresponsible, unnecessary and flat out stupid.
The amount of arc flash incident energy in a 2000 amp cabinet is enough to vaporize you in a fraction of a second...
Maybe you've never seen a nasty flash but it isn't pretty. Closed casket... It's never enough money or serious to warrant the risk...
I realy like your content mate you are possible the only european ''industrial'' electrician on youtube keep up the good content.
I do work like this on a daily basis, which is fantastic and I really enjoy it, but I was sent to connect up a heating system today in a house, and did not have a clue. Haha. I am so out of touch with domestic wiring.
Good work guys,
I’m pretty good at heating systems, but this stuff I wouldn’t have a clue lol
No idea how this came up on my feed but I watched the entire thing and loved it!
10 point test, I liked it
Nothing like working on something that can kill you
Good work
Yeah. Many years ago a driving instructor told me, "assume every other driver is having a really shitty day".
I'm the only one in the house and I *still* check with the meter right after I am 100% sure I just turned off the correct breaker.
Nothing more satisfying than hoovering out 20 year old swarf from the bottom of a board 😁
Has to be Cory this comment haha
Unfortunately very common to find a new control panel with buzzing motor starters/contractors due to swarf. Here in the UK far too many electrical companies drill gland plates with hole saws while in place.
I'm not trade, but a 68 year-old who never gave a thought to the complexities and dangers of power supply. That was until a guy from Merlin Gerin dropped a huge spanner across the output of a diesel UPS he was commissioning for us (at one of Whitbread's old data centres). Hell's teeth! The mega-flash & bang which shook the building and killed all power stone dead for several hours. Nobody hurt but many new pairs of pants needed that day!
Hi Mike,
Excellent installation as usual!
Very explicit and informative!
You and Cam work brilliantly as a team! Always look forward to your uploads. My go-to electrical channel! Bring on part two! Take care. See you next Sunday! 👍⚡️
I promise you dont need that many exclamation points but at least i get how much you like this video
Wow that brought back some good memories ,i loved working on those old boards
Yeah, man. Here to absolutely commend you for you being a pro at a young age. I am in process of installing some 240mm2 Al myself right now. Brutal crimping job. Rock on!
Good luck; I in Romania, gathered some chinese 18 tons pres, wich, cyabi bend to 240; It says it should crimp 300, so... take care!👍
@@georgebadea4138 Eu am una bulgărească...😅
That's where a good set of hydraulic crimpers comes in handy.
I had to work a 2000 A 440 V panel hot. It was in a hospital and could not shut down the power. No, I am not crazy, just confident I know what I am doing.
Great video right up my street, as an Industrial Electr. Inspector for 50 y,AP Controller,Design Engineer inspector,Inspection and testing organizer, Manufacturer Inspections All over the world prior to delivery and finally signing off the completion Certs for some off the biggest jobs in the UK (all airports Including T5 new build,Power stations Hospitals and so on) but now sadly retired LOL.
You lads have turned that cabinet into a proper electrical installation. Good on you.
I look forward to these every week, you and photonicinduction are by far the best Sparky's to learn from!
Jesus. What are you learning from Photonic Induction? How to hoover up during a fire? 😁
@@OJHussick lmao
well or what not to do
I know what a flashover looks like. 45 years ago I was apprentice in a large engineering company. Our shop had a large switch room separated with a fireproof door with small window ,6" sq in it. An electricians apprentice was working outside in the yard ,digging tar seal out of a in ground cable duct. His pickaxe went straight into one of the cables ,he wasn't injured but the switch room exploded . The light from the arc ,through that tiny window, lit up our shop for an instant. There were several big boxes like that and all were fried.
You’ll only get a really good arc flash if you’re using ACBs of similar that are not fault limiting, once there’s a fuse in the circuit the energy let through is very limited.
Oldschool wire stripping with a knife, nice.
Remembers me on me first job, 30 yrs ago in the (now demolished) Opel factory in Antwerp. We had an amazing time there as service technicians/electricians, servicing the car plant and general maintenance of the factory. Full continuous shifts 24/7....
My first real paid job, as an 19yr old earned around 60,000 Belgian francs wich was a fortune back then.....
Best spark on TH-cam, hands down 👍🏻
I was an AT in the US Navy and the highest power I had to work with was 400V/20A for RADAR and related FC systems, but I respected the hell out of that 20A (and the voltage was pretty high too). 2KA is insane! With just a single volt of potential that would supply 2KW of electrical energy!
Would be even more than 2kW, if cos phi is 1 and p=root3*U*I (cos phi probably isn’t 1 though, depending on what its powering)
Carriers have 13kV distribution these days. It's nuts.
Good content 👍. FYI you are getting a “continuity” reading through the LV windings/ neutral earth connection. The transformer is only earthed on the HV side as part of the isolations 👍👍
Hi Nick, trying to understand a bit better. Why do the phases and Neutral/earth have continuity in the 10 point test? Like you said the HV was isolated, but on the LV side of the trany, even if each of the phases were isolated, wouldn't there be no continuity between the points he tested?
This is a channel for proper sparks, no twin and sling lifting floorboards like a melon head here! Did you do a proper industrial electrical install apprenticeship? Because you have a lot of well crafted skills very methodical, especially for a younger lad I’d have you on the rigs with me any day.
A couple years ago a shopping centre here in Australia had a similar setup with those fuses in that oil filled switch. They changed the fuses out and when they went back in they ended up getting damaged and shorting across the phases. It caused A massive arc flash and killed 2 of them and the 3rd guy was severely burned. Sad to hear it happened over there too
Morley, that was a sad day for the industry, has brought some interesting changes to work practices.
Got a picture on my phone of a board that blew in the night got a a call out next morn to take a peek, one side the fuse was loose and making a arc less than a 1mm but it grew and got hot then ended the panel took around 15mins start to finish
I would love a shed like that, with no power, in my council back garden - with a little ' Danger high voltage ' sign on the front and a luggage padlock on it.
a 10 point test should always be followed up by chucking a damp twig on it.
The earth on the HV system has nothing to do with the LV terminals "ringing out". The HV windings are completely insulated from the LV. The LV transformer windings are of negligible DC resistance and as the transformer LV winding is star connected, you would be concerned if you didn't get a "short" between the connections on the incoming tails!
are
@@residualelectrical From 60Hz Delta-Wye land here- I was surprised you 50Hz guys don't have lock-out tag-out rules, basically if YOU are working down stream from the [off] distribution Xfmr, YOUR [usually red] lock goes on the operating handle or door to get to the handle, YOU have the only key, thus preventing any stranger saying "huh, no power, i'll just turn it back on" while you're torquing inside the 2KA panel. If multiple workers are involved, a gang lock plate holds each persons lock and can't be opened until the last lock is removed. Thats always part of starting work safety briefings. Our 480V switchgear sure looks different even though it does the same functions - nice tour + fine work!
@@swsuwave In France you're mandated to pad lock everything you're working on.
@@zaxmaxlax in the US, you must use your lock, your key - I saw the grid worker put on their lock & gave their keys to the worker, but that's not ok here because the workers don't know where all keys in existence are, like if the grid people use a common key. All US safety approved lock-out/tag-out locks are keyed different so nobody but the worker can remove his/her lock. The lock cylinders have extra pins to allow manufacturing different keys.
@@swsuwave I think the keys in that brown envelope were to the locks on the HV disconnect.
@@swsuwave Well, such lockout rules do apply here and the UK. That lockout has been applied at the HV isolator and tag applied. The Supply Authority guy that disconnected did that.
A personal tale: In the early 70's, I was helping install some equipment in a large warehouse. I asked the supervisor where the AC supply was and he pointed to a very large box on the wall. I opened it an saw that the fuzes were the size of beer cans and a notice said that it was 600v 3 phase. I wanted to determine if it was hot and I didn't have a volt meter on me, so I noticed some wire on the floor. I picked-up a 2 foot or so length of 1/0 ga. insulated and put it across the outer legs to see if I got a spark. This fireball jumped out of the box and covered me with molten Copper. It vaporized about a foot of wire in the process. I noticed later that there was a sub-station on the other side of the wall.
I never made that mistake again.
How are you still alive
Wow man your so lucky to be alive interesting tale tho it might help someone else to never do that , I remember tales of when blokes doing gas pipework checking for leaks with a lighter 😱 crazy times back in the day .
Tip tops Gentleman. Something to be said for the Queen to provide proper functional safety equipment. Thankyou from the Pacific time zone.
Nice work. Thanks for the vedio showing how to do it the right way. Its so good to see someone that takes pride in their work. You are a true craftsman.
Love the ‘look away when using the bandsaw’ PPE instead of the more normal safety glasses … 🤔
Old colours for three phase was well more identifiable in my opinion.
The problem comes with international markets. If you bought a product from hungary and wanted to put a new plug on it, in the UK, in the US, in Russia and some of the balkan you would have made the chassis live because our red was earth while others used that for lives. Colours were absolutely all over the place. Also blue has been neutral for a good portion of europe since the early days, that really doesn't work well. These are the things that resulted in the current system.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 The problem is that the IEC standard colors are garbage. All of the colors are dark, and there is a very real risk of not just transposing phases but transposing a phase and neutral. I've seen old IEC color spec cable and distinguishing what wire is what is not easy. The old British colors (red/yellow/blue hots black neutral green ground) were much better.
The American colors (black/red/blue hots white neutral green or bare ground for 120V/208V; black/red hots for 120V/240V single phase 3 wire; black/orange/red hots for 240V high leg delta; brown/orange/yellow hots gray neutral green or bare ground for 277V/480V; brown/purple/yellow hots for 480V high leg delta) are the best out there right now. White or gray neutral, green or bare ground, anything else may kill you.
@@randacnam7321 shamefully i have to admit in a rush on an events job with doors at opening 8am working in a dark cupboard i put phase to neutral and lets just say the client with a large array of tvs wasnt happy
@@randacnam7321 Quite frankly the US colour system is hot garbage so let's not even bring that up, most of all with cross-country compatibility. That's your opinion, okay, completely ignored what I said, that's fine but just think for 2 minutes.
Like just for starters what if you end up with a UV damaged cable? Something can become white or grey in the summer sun of 10 years so it's an absolute no-go for a neutral colour, if it can be a faded live. Also yellow-green is the best thing for earth because that's the only patterned cable. Also blue and green fade the same way in the dirt and sun so you might end up with a blue live wire on earth then. Then there's monochromatic light, like old sodium lights where you cannot recognize colour, hue or saturation just brightness. There it will save your ass. You have no clue how colour or pigments work mate. All you want is colours that are mildly more convenient in the best possible case.
@@whatevernamegoeshere3644 In a lot of permanent building wire, ground isn't even insulated so fading can never be a problem. And our blue insulation is often a lot brighter than the blue used in IEC spec cable. The worst issue I've seen in fading is with yellow wire, and that is why 277V/480V uses gray as a neutral. Plus, American practice is to put wires where they can't easily fade. Even where they do, white and black are real easy to distinguish and red is still visibly pink.
There are a lot of bright colors out there for wiring insulation, and one of my main greps with the IEC color spec is that they use none of them to contrast with the dark blue.
And apply your LPS example to IEC colors: L1, L2 and neutral look identical. Even L3 may be hard to distinguish.
The only thing I have no complaint about with IEC colors is the yellow green striped ground, and even then it could be improved as IEC spec says the stripe cannot twist around the cable. It should twist or at least have multiple smaller yellow stripes, as otherwise it can look like just green or just yellow in a bundle or loom.
Never seen anything like this being just a house basher, wicked video real interesting 👍
That switchgear gives me the creeps, I'm surprised there wasn't someone stuck to it rotting away,eeeckk!
🔌⚡🔌⚡
I worked in six flags terminating a 60kw transformer and striping the insulation my razor slipped and cut my arterie. Love these videos I feel like I'm doing it watching you
There is no mistakes only human error ,good your still with us .
Very rare for someone your age to be clued up whatever you do 👍
BS
This is the most condescending bullshit. There are lazy people with terrible workmanship in every age group.
Just came across this channel, nice content & craftsmenship on industrial work, makes a change from the house bashing channels. I just rewired my house & reminded myself exacly why i dont do domestic work anymore.
You know, doing videos like these are great demonstrations for trainees and awesome if your boss ever calls your work pants. XD
I was working on a panel that controlled two 100 HP motors thare was a buzzing I pushed in each contactor tighter still had a buzzing so I turned it off and the buzzing was behind me I turned around and looked and a large rattle snake was under the piping behind my leg I verry slowly moved out and got a shovel from my truck and chased it out of the building then went back to check out the control panel.
Damn I bet that torque wrench cost more than my car.
yeah an absolute unit
I feel so lucky I get to spec my own cable because tri-rated cable is a billion times easier to work with but saying that props to you dude. That was a nice tidy install.
What a panel...
Happy to mostly work with Siemens Sivacon those are the best
I don't know how I ended up here but that was awesome to watch.
You need a Milwaukee M18 Cable Stripper, Cable Cutter, Crimper and Knock Out Punch
Excellent work brother respect ✊ and love for electricity ⚡️💪💪⚡️🪛🔌💡greetings from Greece mate
⚠️ why do I enjoy watching big electrical work? Well done chap 👍😎🥸
I have never done anything bigger than 4mm2 but I enjoyed the video.
Great video dude. How are you, hope you had a great holiday, and birthday, youve done a good job mate. You should do a video about going self employed and giving tips about it, just For those that are in The industry and wanna take The plunge, as itll give Them The info they need. Keep it up dude
My boy you make me wanna put in good work..respect
What a video. Best video I’ve seen on TH-cam for this stuff 👍🏻 BY FAR.
Not only a widow maker but also, given the correct circumstances, a decent windowmaker in the wall its mounted to.
This is why you get a proper electrical engineering FIRM to do your companies electrical
Must be your best video so far Mike; great to see the UK PN guy doing the isolation too. Waiting two weeks was tough 😉 but well worth the wait!
I love these videos Mike. Great work and content mate
im a service electricians apprentice in the states, this shit looks wild stay safe!
Funny as an American i see guys in the UK wear those pants with the big pockets on them but they never put anything in them lol
the hands a shakes music rolls of into another realm
Such a cool video i couldnt stop watching!!! Some of those older panels can be pretty damn wild
Splendid. I wish more electricians worked like this.
Fascinating video mate thanks for sharing
Have you ever come across asbestos components within any boards you have worked on?
Great video all too often the short cut is taken for all sorts of reason but you now know it's right👍 times I've been into big boards and it's very tempting to just get the lid back on proper job.
You are a breath of fresh air.
In the 80s I was a guard at ball glass..electrician had to drill into a live hugh box.. could not shut factory down.... the guy looked nervous...supervisor was a bit away.....
2:52 those lights make my brain feel funny
Beautiful cleanup of the box
Thanks a ton for the excellent video/quality!
Was also curious what your pants and the low-profile belt storage are? Couldn't find on the tool shop
I always find that max size of heat shrink is double size of cable your putting it on, 98% of the time ,,get some glasses feller you don’t want to be best Sparkie on u tube that can’t see no more or lose a finger. I say again just go get a battery crimping machine so much easier..great video yet again
Well, it didn’t come home, but at least we got a new RC vid!
Keep up with your fluids guys while working. Nice panel work.
I wish I knew what I was looking at, looks cool though.
At 34:00, you don't leave enough wire. It should square-off, not round-off. They can pull-way from the bottom.
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The at 40:30 looks good!
Nice old I-Line built like a tank. 230/400v system? That utility transformer looks a little scrawny. Always interesting to see how it’s done in other parts of the world, Milwaukee makes a beautiful power crimper.. worth every penny for the professional Crimps it turns out. Cheers from 🇨🇦.
You guys don't have leather covers for your gloves in the UK?
I've done everything you did here only with the panel live the entire time, and I can't count how many times I've done it. I actually prefer to work panels live, it's keeps you sharp all the time. Also if my helper ever brought me an aluminum ladder into the electric room with an open panel it would be his last day.
Here in the Netherlands we have a ladder manufacturer who produces aluminum ladders coated clear, black or gray and they have a special line for electricians, they aren't aluminum but fibreglass. Yellow coloured. Don't know if that is the case in the video.
The previous sparked crossed the life out of that thread on the l2 eh. What a squeeler
Nice to see some 'meaty' electrics. Can quite understand that you wouldn't want to be anywhere near those cables when livened up. I would be away standing in the next field!
I work with "low" voltage DC (400-800VDC) builds and building audio/video infrastructure in studios- I do the exact same thing as you: "No one is probably gonna open this after I bolt it up, but it deserves the TLC!"
One of my mentors as a teen always told me "if your cable management is clean, it sounds better!" Respect the extra effort and time for sure, esp as someone who often has to repair things where previously people haven't taken such care.
Random question: What are those black gloves you're wearing? They look like an excellent fit and durable for a thin work glove!
I used to love heavy mains work. You did a great job on the tidy and install. 👍 you are quite right about the isolation requirements I have witnessed someone seriously injured as a result of poor isolation.
Hey mate, awesome video! Just curious, did you do any testing on the existing 600A MCCB to see if it was still functional before doing the cable installation?
Interesting to say the least.JWD! Job well done!
more satisfying than a pc cleaning video :)
Giving the head shrink pinch at the back once warm does work , again not ideal but can get it looking pretty smart
Nice video, brought back a few memories. May I ask why you didn't crimp the lugs onto the ends of the cables at the isolator switch before putting them in the trunking? That way it would've been a bit easier, and you could've chased the slack back towards the breaker.
And what happens if the lug face is twisted a few degrees out so it won't sit flat? Rotate the whole length of cable to get it right... or perhaps stick a screw driver in the bolt hole to twist force the cable stranding to comply? Do you do that sort of butchery to XLPE cables?
Great video buddy, love the attention to detail, looks a really neat job 👌
0 PPE. I like this guy, seriously!
glad you left your safety hat on.......
I'm curious, since it didn't seem to be covered in the video - are you required to do conductor length matching for all conductors within a single phase? I didn't see any attempt to match the amount cut off when landing those and it had me concerned. On such a short run in a cable tray my personal approach is to length match my cuts preinstall, land everything on the more challenging end first (likely the new panel in this install), then dress the cabling back towards the other end, cut both to minimum matched length needed and make use of the extra room in the larger panel to allow me to situate any extra length. At least here in the United States this is required per NFPA 70 310.10(h).
I don't think they do. Certainly don't in Aus or NZ which is where I'm from. For all practical purposes the mains cables will be within a few inches of each other anyway and besides it doesn't really matter because the transformer volts are always a but different on each phase anyway.
@@BigAmp I mean the multiple parallel conductors in a single phase leg here - they have several of each phase. If one is longer than the other it will carry less current, since resistance is proportional to length assuming same gauge on each parallel conductor, and this can result in enough current mismatch to overheat the shortest conductor under certain circumstances.
When the shortest conductor heats up it's resistance will increase until it is the same as the longest conductor and the current naturally balances out. In the NFPA they say "the same length" but they really don't specify a tolerance, is it ok with 10% difference? 1%? or must it be 0.0001%? My guess (but I did not calculate it) is that anything within a foot works fine as long as the cables are ran together (which is another requirement).
@@mrfrenzy. I usually aim within a certain percentage, the percentage having been chosen based on the factor of safety. If my total current capacity for all conductors is 20% over actual available current at OCPD, for example, I'm not gonna worry too much about a 10% mismatch in length from longest to shortest as it will result in about a 10% higher current in that wire and I'll still have about 10% headroom. But if the conductors are only 5% oversized then I am going to keep the mismatch in length under 5% for sure.
@@kenstein sounds completely reasonable, that gives you plenty of margin even though I don't think the actual overcurrent will be 10% in a 10% shorter cable once it starts to heat up.
working on new build stuff for the last 12-14 years you forget these types of panels even exist worked on a few winddowmakers before scary things
I’ve just finished my level 3 installation course at college is an apprenticeship a good idea or what should my next steps be
Nice install...😎
Much love from USA 🇺🇸🤘
Dewalt heat gun. I never knew there was such a thing. I am so getting one of those.
Hi . Heavy duty job there jeez. What is the unit in the corner doing ? our factory has something similar with a breaker switch on the front . If this breaker tripped or someone knocked into it , as it by a door and very low down would it knock out the power to our factory do you think ? What is the purpose of it ? rgds Don
wow - the Widowmaker looks so old-fashioned...
good suprise on a Monday, lovely long video! neat job, would be happy if it was my installation you were working on!