BTW the little fans are called EDF's, or electric ducted fan when used on RC planes, however, these ones look like they are hair drier repurposed units. The term "turbine" implies that energy is harvest from a moving fluid; in this case its doing the contrary so it's a fan, not a turbine.
@muppetpaster those are chinese clones of the dyson hairdryer fans but they are slightly different, the dyson one uses a single phase motor but the chinese ones use a bldc motor, i have one too and it is powerful even only at 70watts.
Woah really they use fans like this in vacuum cleaners?! That’s awesome! What if I tried making a mini 3D printed vacuum cleaner with this! That would be SOO cool I have so many project ideas I can’t wait to work on!
Could you do some thrust tests with these turbines? More specifically 3D print different size nozzles to measure thrust and efflux. I have been planning on building a high efflux EDF plane but EDFs impellers are designed for airflow not pressure. These turbines in the video however seem to be properly designed for pressure which would yield higher efflux (with appropriate diameter nozzle) at the cost of thrust. I would like to add that you should avoid fixating on power "ratings" on any BLDC motor of these size. You could easily quadruple the power figure for a shorter burst. All depends on cooling. Even the rated power might be enough to burn it at 1+min runs.
Omg it’s like you’re reading my mind! 😅 So I actually have already 3D printed various ‘Venturi-style’ nozzles and a new jet fan housing for that very purpose! I just need to do more research on the topic and before making the video. While making this video I was actually thinking of using a load cell with one of these fans to measure the thrust to see if an RC plane using these would be viable. Since that would be really cool, an RC plane with actual jet turbines on it!!!
Amazing video. I just wish you did an endurance test, too. I'd subscribe, but im already subscribed 😁. I love the investigation of modern capacitor types. Im sure capacitors will replace batteries in many use-cases
@@abo3abid1 I’ll very likely do one at some point, I don’t wanna spoil any surprises though. But trust me, the videos I’ve got planned for this year/2025 are gonna be insane! Also thanks for subscribing!!! ☺️☺️
Note: I noticed I had kind of a condescending tone at the start and at certain points in the video. I truly didn’t mean for it to sound like that so I apologize. Also, when I said “first video on the internet”, I’m only referring to these specific models of Hybrid Super Capacitors with their 4.0V nominal cell voltage and 1000+ Farad ratings, not all lithium super capacitors as a whole. Since of course I’m not the first to cover those. And by “coolest video” I only mean as far as combining/testing out new cells like these with a cool type of BLDC fan (the Jet Turbines)
Constructive criticism. At the start of the video, there tended to be more talk and less action, it made concentrating a little difficult. The chapter system, saved you at this point. Showing graphics of data/spec sheets of the capacitors would have been better.
43:25 ofcourse it goes slower when full throttle....Powerupply dumps Voltage to 8 V or so...Because of limit and Constant Current "protection", same as if you'd limit the current to 5 A...Voltage would duck significantly.
Omg of COURSE!! I think I just got so excited after seeing it work that I didn’t even think too hard about why it was doing that 😂 thanks for pointing it out!
I like your videos about LI super caps. I am considering using them as a starter battery in a 12v vehicle. Considering the temp range, it could be a solid solution. Intended.
Awesome idea! I’ll update this reply with more info soon, since it’s been a while since I’ve considered the possibility of using them as car starter packs. (I’ll update with more info/corrections if I’m wrong), given the ‘cranking amps’ on many vehicles being hundreds of amps, assuming a voltage of 12V, I’d to need to go through the data sheets again to see whether this specific model of 4V lithium supercap with a 40A max.discharge would be best suited for the job, or if a 3.0V model of lithium supercap with a lower capacity, but ~62A max.discharge current would take up the least amount of space. Potentially I’m thinking of a hybrid solution combining EDLCs with lithium supercaps and making a management system to go in between to keep the EDLCs topped up, where the EDLCs would do the cranking, and as soon as the car starts, the lithium supercaps would immediately start filling the EDLCs back up very quickly. I’ll definitely do more research on this and update if I’m missing something.
@@KeonsLab A group of friends and I do overlanding in Oregon. We switched to induction cook tops to minimize fire risk and propane bombs attached to our vehicles. Then we added Starlink and a few other things so we could spend more time on our trips. Currently, my 97 F250 has 400ah 12v of LiFePO4 charged by the altnernator or 700W of solar on the lumber rack. We have a few vehicles with similar configurations. An alternator went out on one and the solar charged the lead acid battery under the hood for 600 miles of the trip and we learned that it saved 2mpg. We are designing a complete re-do going to 48v and more than 1000ah. So why use an alternator that peaks at 15.7v? Why not remove the two 12v lead acid batteries that offer 1600 CCA together? Seems like building the array of supercapacitors to handle 16v and then in series for the correct number of joules would be more robust, work better in the cold, recharge fast off the 48v system, and save mpg. This is my winter project.
Ooh now THAT is cooll!!! A textbook about lithium supercapacitors that I'm reading actually does mention that as the technology continues to evolve, lithium hybrid supercapacitors will become the ultimate power source for EVs in general as the world heads in the direction of full-electrification. So I think you may have a pretty decent idea here. Since those lead acid batteries must get quite heavy, contributing to more fuel consumption as well. And not just that, I think that vehicle-mounted solar power in conjunction with these cells, like on vans (for the community who do the 'van life' stuff), could be quite the upgrade. From what I understand, while lead-acid batteries are extremely robust across basically all conditions, the advantages of supercapacitors could probably easily outweigh that factor. Are you planning on using the supercapacitors just for starting the engine, and similar short, high-power bursts? Or also for powering the cook tops and other things? @@b97209
@@KeonsLab At this point, I think the supercapicitors would work well for the 12v system needed to run the glow plugs/starter/engine/accessories and get refilled quickly by LiPo. We learned over the past few years that we need to think in periods of a week instead of 24 hours. Solar happens during the day. We cook as the sun goes down. Starlink is on all night. Coffee in the morning. But some days are snowy, overcast, rainy. So we are looking for the average solar over 7 days for charging. Was looking at the Dakota Dual Purpose for starting. Expensive. Might as well go for supercapacitors and have no worries about starting when it is single digits out. Looking to use an MPPT from the LiPo to the supercapacitors so we don't stress the existing system.
Oh no did I not mention that? I must’ve cut it out by accident. :( Anyways, here’s the answer to your question: The reason I used three ‘port’ WAGO Connectors for all of them except the ones going to the aviation connector, is so that by leaving unused ‘ports’ they can be manually balanced until I make a custom balancing system which shouldn’t be THAT hard to do, but it’ll take a little bit because I’m doing so many projects at the same time. Right now though, I’m not really balancing them as a little experiment given that they’re all new cells to see how much deviation I see after ~10 or so charge cycles
I’ll check, but I think the model I got didn’t have that option but I’ll double check. EDIT: I FIXED IT THANK YOUU!! Turns out there was a slider for adjusting the camera angles in front of me all along, I have no idea how I missed it!! The thermal ‘holograms’ are finally gone! One of the most helpful comments I’ve ever gotten thanks!
3d print a jig where you can place the fan 'free floating' in it.....the housing for the fans, place attachment points/ make some sort of way to thread a harness through.... as simple as utilizing multiple rubber bands -thick ones. So that when placed together you will have a main structure and then the fan with the housing free floats within.... if you where to touch the fan housing, it should be able to "bob" or bounce arround without too much force. At the back side have a solid wall or a ducted setup that maybe you could open/ close(for future sensors). Attached to the back side utilize a luggage scale- relatively cost effective- have big legible screens displaying how many LBS or KG is being pulled on it- possibly simple to incorporate into some loginging settup with a Pi. Make the jig universal so that you can have it be able to test out other turbines..fans...hamsters.....etc.... and what I was thinking with the ducted rear is to be able to direct the output air at something like what you see on weather stations...those spinny things that measure the wind speeed. So you'll have the force, and the output wind speed....maybe add another to the front to see the input air speed? The above would make for an awesome series, not to mention a scientific tool for measurement.
I have a couple load cells, 2” OLED displays and I plan to do exactly that. At the moment I’m designing a handheld device where the jet fan will have a drill-type grip and trigger on it with potentially detachable nozzles which could be switched out “bayonet style”. The ESC will be housed in the grip with three plunger contacts and a slide-on version of the jet fan housing with brass or copper “sleds” as contacts. I’m still figuring it out though. I’m also really curious how much thrust the jet fan is making so I’ll definitely be testing that too. I’ve got many , many cool video ideas planned so I’ll do my best!
Those wire yellowish plugs are used on lithium batteries for drones. The other plugs, are aviation, but are used to connect radio communication devives and are common in avionics radios and ham/amateur radio equipment.
Guess i need somenof those caps. They are really cute. Shame you had zero wattmeters on everything lol Thx for video.. and the price of things.. wait! :)
Yeah I regret not having them too. Sorry about that. For my next video on these I’ll see if I can get one of those wattmeter + ammeter combos they use for batteries!
Sorry for that. I’ll try to do that for the next one. I’ll probably get one of those multimeters with the Hall effect ammeters. I’ll also generate some voltage vs current vs time curves to plot the discharge. Thanks for the advice! I welcome all constructive criticism so that I can make better videos.
The particular power supply looks like it may be suitable for the ESP wifi upgrade popping apart and find out you may be able to get the graphs and everything exported to web page in a live feed.
Ooh interesting idea! I do have an Arduino with SIM card capabilities that can send data live to a webpage. Are you saying maybe I could use an ammeter/voltmeter module and send it to a webpage for real-time monitoring? Awesome idea!!! I really need to make more stuff with that Arduino MKR GSM1400
The offset is because you don't have your distance set right on your camera. The image overlay on most low res thermal cameras (FLIR calls theirs MSX) is done by compositing the thermal image with a separate visible light image. Since the thermopile array and visible light cameras are physically separated the software has to know the distance to your target to align them properly.
Also if you want an accurate temperature you need a known emissivity surface. You can use masking tape or matte black spray paint to get a mostly emissive surface (around 98%) on an object of unknown emissivity. Those sueprcaps are gloss plastic on aluminum (both low emissivity surfaces) so possibly quite reflective to IR
Thanks!!! I’m still learning about IR imaging, now I know why whenever I put black sharpie on something it made it reflect less but never attributed it to emissivity. It’s too bad the FLIR One for mobile devices doesn’t let me set the distance, just lets me change temperature units. I had always assumed that it was doing some sort of trigonometry given the known distance between the two cameras and using a Time-of-Flight sensor/LiDAR or something to determine the distance every time it calibrated. I guess not? Anyways, recently I’ve just been using an MLX90614 IR temperature sensor with an arduino for when I want more accurate readings for cold things because the FLIR One to me seems like it’s more effective as a visual aid than an actual engineering tool. Am I missing something?
@@KeonsLab I haven't used the FLIR One before but looking at the manual there should be an option called "Close Up Mode" that enables what they call an "Optimization Slider" (distance setting). It couldn't use ToF since it has no way of knowing what object in the image you want to be aligned with (or even what an "object" is). The Melexis can is gonna have all the same issues, just harder to track down since you can't visually see whats going on. It's still an IR sensor and still bound by the rules of emissivity and the native inaccuracy that comes with thermopiles. The accuracy spec will only be valid in perfectly ideal conditions, like if you've already pre-calibrated the emissivity of the target, the target fills up the entire FoV of the sensor, and the target is uniform in temperature (or you only care about the average anyway). If you need accuracy you need a contact thermometer of some sort. Thermocouples are decently accurate (standard Type K is +/- 2C up to extremely hot temps) and RTDs are even better (Class A PT100 clocks in at +/- 0.3C or better for sub 100C measurements)
Very cool info, thanks! I finally figured out how to fix the alignment! There was a slider to adjust it and now it works perfectly, no more “holograms”!!! I should really look through the manual again because I’m really interested to see what ‘close-up mode’ does. While I don’t have any thermocouple right now I do have some Dallas Instruments precision temp. sensors as well as some thermistors. I’ll try and compare with those. Since I’m mostly measuring cold temps (down to -60°C), it’s kinda challenging to know whether my measurements are accurate or not. I’m thinking of using super thin enameled copper wire with fibreglass around it as a sort of heat brake. I’ll keep at it though maybe I’ll find a solution! I really appreciate your detailed and helpful comments 😄
The new 'hybrid' cap's aren't magic though - there's always a price to pay, all of engineering is about compromise. In this case, like any other battery, there's a minimum charge voltage: you need to be careful to keep each cell >2.5V, else they'll die (not something you have to worry about with those other ultracaps). The datasheet also claims the 'feature' : (and I quote): "- No Explosion Safety". Whether this means they have removed the explosions, or the safety mechanism preventing the explosions, is not clear. ;) Seriously though, measures to prevent explosion on a short would hinder peak current performance, so maybe not having that hindance is the 'feature'? To put it in perspective, the maximum energy these can hold (if we believe them to be caps!) is 0.5*1100*(4)^2, or 8.8kJ...(square the voltage not the capacitance!) but don't worry, as the datasheet reveals that they're actually batteries, with around 450mAh capacity, so the maximum energy is more like 0.5*(4.0-2.5) * (3600*0.45) = 1.215 kJ... although if you dig further into the datasheet, it says the capacity is more like 0.3444 Ah at 25 deg C: 0.93 kJ. So, assuming the last number, we have 930 J with an ESR of 0.0382 Ohms... assuming the capacity wouldn't be even lower in a sudden discharge (which it certainly would - the numbers are for 1A), we'd expect a peak power of V^2/(4*ESR), or 104W (per cell). Which could last about 9 seconds. So, actually fairly impressive. The 3-cell "12V" packs there should be good for about 300W for 9 seconds or so: This is comparable to an overweight and unfit guy on a treadmill if he holds his breath and goes maximum effort starting from rest, and stops as soon as he must breath. So far as explosions goes - well, it's a lithium cell, and each weighs 20grams, so I'm sure you can *make* that happen. They're rated for 6A, with an absolute max of 40A, but you might get them up to 100A or so if shorted... I'd suggest leaving that experiment to someone with the proper bomb test range & high speed camera.
I think by 2.42MJ, you meant 2.42Wh? Since 0.5*1100*4^2 = 8800 J, or 8.8kJ, and converting 8.8kJ to Wh gives 2.44Wh. However, these are not capacitors in the traditional sense where energy is stored electro statically, and they are not batteries, where energy is stored through mostly just the REDOX set of reactions. This is the reason the datasheet has both Farad and mAh units side by side, they are literally using both battery and capacitor units of measuring stored energy because these are hybrid Supercapacitors, they consist of one electrode, usually the anode, which would be typical of a lithium ion battery, with a cathode similar to those found in EDLCs; activated carbon, where the carbon has been Lithiated. And both electrodes are chemically connected via an ionic separator and lithium ion containing electrolyte. However, hybrid lithium Supercapacitors, while also functioning on the same principle as lithium ion batteries: the reversible intercalation and de-intercalation of lithium ions; The hybrid supercapacitor, by using an EDLC type electrode manufactured for this specific purpose, allows for extremely fast migration (or intercalation and de-intercalation) of the lithium ions, which allows for the high discharge and charge rates, but who’s different electrochemistry means the mAh unit, is not to be considered on its own. This is because the mAh units here are basically ‘mAh equivalents’, where the actual ‘mAh equivalent’ decreases as charge rate increases during discharge, unlike the Farad rating which is being used to describe the total amount of energy stored in the cell, a value which unlike the mAh equivalent, is not driven by the discharge rate. You can see this in one of the graphs in the datasheet where they show ‘mAh’ vs Discharge Rate. This is why the ‘Ah’ rating doesn’t stay the same in the datasheet as you mentioned. The reason it states 450 ‘mAh’ (mAh equivalent, not actual mAh units like those used for batteries) in the beginning, then shows a chart with ‘mAh’ vs Temperature vs Charge rates of 600mA and 1A is to demonstrate exactly this: mAh is being used in conjunction with a Farad rating to not only as accurately as possible communicate the energy stored per hybrid capacitor cell, but also due to the nominal voltage being so close to that of a standard lithium ion battery (3.7V), which not only makes calculations comparing the two easier, but more importantly allows for a C-rate to be determined given the discharge current and the cell’s mAh equivalent rating. Also, I’m not sure where the 0.93 kJ value is coming from, the formula in the data sheet is for mWh, not Wh. Converting 0.344Ah to Wh given a voltage of (4.0V-2.5V) gives 0.516Wh. 0.516Wh is 1894J, or 1.89kJ, more than double 930J. I have used an electronic load tester to verify these values, and not only do they match, but the real-world mAh capacity calculated by the discharge tester when discharging a 4.0V cell from 4.0V down to ~2.51V is around 455mAh equivalent 5mAh higher than the rated mAh equivalent, as this was done at a 1C discharge rate (0.45A), because again, the mAh rating is not to be taken on its own, it is meant to be considered together with the Farad rating. They’re hybrid Supercapacitors so they have a hybrid set of energy storage units. In terms of explosion risk, these do not contain any metallic lithium, so as far as I can tell here, the only risk of explosion would be thermal runaway/over voltage causing a buildup of gases, and blowing the vent, rather than an actual chemical reaction that sprays fire like with Li-Po cells for example. We can see this demonstrated in a video by the channel ‘GreatScott’, where he stabs a nail through a 3.2 or 3.8V (I can’t remember at the moment) Lithium SuperCapacitor cells, and no fire is created. I’m pretty sure “No Explosion Safety” is just due to a bad translation because everything else on the document indicates that they are not hazardous goods. Though I do admit the datasheet does not make this clear, which is why the presence of both F and mAh may cause some confusion. It’s something I also wasn’t too sure about until I started researching this technology super thoroughly. In fact, there was an article on how this is a topic that will cause confusion as the definition of ‘batteries’ and ‘Supercapacitors’ become closer to the point where the electrochemistry and cell construction would be used to determine one from the other.
Hi, nice intro to using Li-ion caps. How about you put a circuit breaker in the Li-ion lead, you are playing with a lot of power that can quite easily cause destruction to any equipment it is connected to, and/or injury to the experimenter. Have you checked the balance of charge on each of the three capacitors? Will you be doing this as you scale up the number of capacitors in your power bank? That is a BMS?
Oh definitely, I have a bunch of different self resetting fuses and normal fuses, as well as a traditional circuit breaker like those that pop out on the end of extension cords but rated for 35A. I’ll include them in my next video about these. I’m also planning on building what I’ll be naming the CMS, or capacitor management system, basically like a BMS for high current with a microcontroller running a charging routine I’ve been working on refining for quite a bit. As for balancing, I’ll have to include that as part of the CMS, for now, I’m just using all new cells and I’m going to check the charge of each individual cell after about 8 to 10 charge cycles to see how much deviation there is. I know there should be balancing from the start but I’m doing a little experiment to see how much change there is. When I make this into a bigger bank though, 100% balancing will have to be included.
Yeah, the XT60’s are rated to handle much higher amounts of current (~60A continuous), while the aviation connectors I used are rated for 10A current (at 220VAC, so it might be a bit higher for the lower DC voltages I’m using). If I was installing these permanently I’d definitely go with the XT60 connectors, they’re plastic too so there’s no worries of them causing a short when placed against a PCB. The aviation connectors are just so convenient for experimenting and changing connections around because they’re much easier to take apart.
watch out with getting the voltage too low, the gates of the mosfets might not open fully and they might blow from all the power demand! i have blown esc's with too weak Li batteries.
Yeah me too, I think once their energy density improves a little bit more, and they start making them in flat pack formats (like Li-Po batteries), they’ll start being adopted for lower power consumer electronics like video game controllers, electric toothbrushes, etc. where a big selling point would be the lifespan and/or charging speed of the cells.
@@KeonsLab kinda like that 18mm diameter.. Maybe I can use some 18650 cell holders to hold those.. Bunch of those with 21700 cells in my scoot would be something to test for.
Omg I was thinking of the same thing a while back! I was considering bending one of the leads back and putting the cell into an 18650-style steel cylinder to make them easier to work with and provide some heat dissipation. That’s really cool! :) I personally hope they make these cells in a flat-pack style similar to Li-po batteries, that would be SO awesome
For these specific models it’s up to the manufacturer to lower the prices it seems like. I got them for about $17 each last year and they’ve only gotten a few dollars cheaper since then. I think once they begin getting used in more places they’ll lower in price. Since they don’t seem to manufacture a whole lot of them at the moment.
I'm working on replicating the current draw of the fan using the discharge tester to get an exact value and also have it calculate the total energy used. I didn't discharge it fully to its minimum voltage while making this video but I'm really wondering this as well. Once I have all the data I'll probably make a part 2 or something going into detail.
Of course, however, this was more of a demo, not so much a tutorial (yet) because I did leave out some rather important safety features like fuses, balancing, over/under voltage protection, current protection, etc. which would be required for others to follow safely if being used for general applications. I would personally suggest to not follow what I did in this video if it’s going to be used for something like an RC boat or any other actual application other than experimenting in a controlled environment. I’ll start working on a part 2 soon where I will address everything and make a proper tutorial on making a supercap bank suitable for general use. I hope this makes sense. :)
😂 tbh the OS and screen is the only thing 'good' about it. [Apple rant warning:] Otherwise it overheats to the point that I can feel the heat radiating off of it when trying to do any work with it like editing 1080p in premiere pro, the SSD is too small, the 8gb RAM gets annoying sometimes, the screen & build quality are decent but they better be given their price points. And oh my god iCloud is horrible sometimes, it tries to create the illusion of free space by deleting local files and uploading them to iCloud WHILE THE FILES ARE BEING USED. So for example, I had ~5gb free on the drive and was editing in premiere pro, where I made the mistake of saving the project file in 'My Documents' which happens to be shared with iCloud. This means voice-over audio files were stored in the same place. So the sneaky cloud service would delete the local copies of voice-overs as soon as I'd start editing a different part of the video, or quickly switch from premiere pro to chrome and back (no more than 30s), and the premiere pro would be all like "Sorry, can't find your audio files you just recorded 2 minutes ago, guess you better restart the program", so I'd have to go in the file browser, redownload the local copy, restart premiere pro, and do this dozens of times. I finally got an external hard drive and was able to free up more space, but I cannot believe the AUDACITY of it to keep deleting my local files even after I redownload them... Windows or Google Drive would never do that. It was so frustrating, and I wished I could just pour gallium (I have 2 small vials of gallium) all over the macbook but didn't. (mostly kidding 😂) If macOS could be installed on a desktop (I tried but the 'hackinstosh' thing didn't work for my hardware, and I also had safety concerns) I'd bet Apple would lose a lot of their sales. Because the OS does to a certain extent make things like coding and editing easier, but for the most part they're all linux features that Apple just re-polished which makes it just a little more convenient for some tasks. I hope this makes you feel better 🙂
Those are the ferrules right? Twisting the wires is just a bad habit I need to get over. But aren’t WAGO connectors made for both solid and stranded wire? Please do correct me if I’m wrong because I tried searching online but can’t find any definitive answers regarding the ferrules for WAGO connectors & stranded wire. Most of what I found indicated that stranded wire is fine for WAGO connectors, they just shouldn’t be twisted. Thank you so much for your comment, I really appreciate it because learning together is what makes this platform so special.
When I got them last year they were about $17 each, I think they’ve gotten a few dollars cheaper since then but they don’t seem to manufacture them in super large quantities because when I had placed my large order back then it took them a few weeks to get them all ready. But at least they were fresh :) There’s a few different manufacturers of hybrid supercaps but these were the best value I could find in terms of voltage and capacity per cell
Yeah I’m working on making my videos a bit shorter, I was thinking of maybe making two videos for projects like this, one long one with all the details and one shorter one as a brief overview with more of a focus on demonstrating the final product.
The fan itself barely heated up, so there wasn’t really much to see, but for the calibration, I wish I could manually calibrate it but the model I have (FLIR One Gen 3) is quite limited in its features, so it does an auto-calibration on its own. I’m not super impressed with this model of FLIR camera either. The only setting it lets me change is the colour scheme, and the units of temperature (Celsius and Fahrenheit, not even Kelvins). And while the ‘Pro’ version did have other features like multi-zone temperature reading (multiple crosshairs), I couldn’t justify the price since I also needed to get materials (like Nitinol wire, springs, and sheets, quite a bit of solid copper, big heatsinks, as well as many other rather costly supplies which I don’t wanna spoil the surprise of, because they’re really cool) Sorry about that. EDIT: I fixed the issue with the thermal ‘holograms’! I just had to adjust a setting for the camera alignment so now it works perfectly!!!
Woah you mean like the ones from the Tesla cars? I’ve been so curious about those! Do you know any details about them like the capacity, voltage, etc.?
I’m kinda interested now :), Feel free to send me an email with more details and I’ll see what I can do! My channel’s email address is in the ‘About’ section. 😁
BTW the little fans are called EDF's, or electric ducted fan when used on RC planes, however, these ones look like they are hair drier repurposed units. The term "turbine" implies that energy is harvest from a moving fluid; in this case its doing the contrary so it's a fan, not a turbine.
They look exactly like the ones in a Dyson vac.
@@muppetpaster they are. about $10-15 on aliexpress etc...
@muppetpaster those are chinese clones of the dyson hairdryer fans but they are slightly different, the dyson one uses a single phase motor but the chinese ones use a bldc motor, i have one too and it is powerful even only at 70watts.
@@paradiselost9946 i live in china and they are about 30RMB here which is about $3
Woah really they use fans like this in vacuum cleaners?! That’s awesome!
What if I tried making a mini 3D printed vacuum cleaner with this! That would be SOO cool I have so many project ideas I can’t wait to work on!
Now let's See How Long for the 2,000 Sub's Mark.. Your a Eager One, Let Have Some Fun....!!!!....
Aw I really appreciate that so much!! 😊 I’ve got some really cool stuff planned out for the near future!
Could you do some thrust tests with these turbines? More specifically 3D print different size nozzles to measure thrust and efflux. I have been planning on building a high efflux EDF plane but EDFs impellers are designed for airflow not pressure. These turbines in the video however seem to be properly designed for pressure which would yield higher efflux (with appropriate diameter nozzle) at the cost of thrust.
I would like to add that you should avoid fixating on power "ratings" on any BLDC motor of these size. You could easily quadruple the power figure for a shorter burst. All depends on cooling. Even the rated power might be enough to burn it at 1+min runs.
Omg it’s like you’re reading my mind! 😅
So I actually have already 3D printed various ‘Venturi-style’ nozzles and a new jet fan housing for that very purpose! I just need to do more research on the topic and before making the video.
While making this video I was actually thinking of using a load cell with one of these fans to measure the thrust to see if an RC plane using these would be viable. Since that would be really cool, an RC plane with actual jet turbines on it!!!
Great video, very nice that everything was shown on paper as well as explained.
Glad you liked it! 😁 It means so much to me that you enjoyed the video, it makes my heart happy :)
Amazing content
Thank you so much!!! 😁☺️
Amazing video. I just wish you did an endurance test, too. I'd subscribe, but im already subscribed 😁.
I love the investigation of modern capacitor types. Im sure capacitors will replace batteries in many use-cases
@@abo3abid1 I’ll very likely do one at some point, I don’t wanna spoil any surprises though. But trust me, the videos I’ve got planned for this year/2025 are gonna be insane!
Also thanks for subscribing!!! ☺️☺️
Note: I noticed I had kind of a condescending tone at the start and at certain points in the video.
I truly didn’t mean for it to sound like that so I apologize.
Also, when I said “first video on the internet”, I’m only referring to these specific models of Hybrid Super Capacitors with their 4.0V nominal cell voltage and 1000+ Farad ratings, not all lithium super capacitors as a whole. Since of course I’m not the first to cover those.
And by “coolest video” I only mean as far as combining/testing out new cells like these with a cool type of BLDC fan (the Jet Turbines)
Constructive criticism. At the start of the video, there tended to be more talk and less action, it made concentrating a little difficult.
The chapter system, saved you at this point.
Showing graphics of data/spec sheets of the capacitors would have been better.
Why didn't you list where you got the caps from ?
Yeah buddy! Love your channel!
Thanks!!
I really appreciate it! 😁
the xt60 connectors are used in remote controlled cars for the lipo battery plugs
Oh yes of course! Thank you! :)
43:25 ofcourse it goes slower when full throttle....Powerupply dumps Voltage to 8 V or so...Because of limit and Constant Current "protection", same as if you'd limit the current to 5 A...Voltage would duck significantly.
Omg of COURSE!!
I think I just got so excited after seeing it work that I didn’t even think too hard about why it was doing that 😂 thanks for pointing it out!
very cool, but we need bigger banks!
Definitively! Soon I’ll be putting 3 of these banks in parallel for a 3S3P configuration where it’ll be 12V, 1100 Farads.
Congrats!!!! 🎉
I like your videos about LI super caps. I am considering using them as a starter battery in a 12v vehicle. Considering the temp range, it could be a solid solution. Intended.
Awesome idea! I’ll update this reply with more info soon, since it’s been a while since I’ve considered the possibility of using them as car starter packs.
(I’ll update with more info/corrections if I’m wrong),
given the ‘cranking amps’ on many vehicles being hundreds of amps, assuming a voltage of 12V,
I’d to need to go through the data sheets again to see whether this specific model of 4V lithium supercap with a 40A max.discharge would be best suited for the job, or if a 3.0V model of lithium supercap with a lower capacity, but ~62A max.discharge current would take up the least amount of space.
Potentially I’m thinking of a hybrid solution combining EDLCs with lithium supercaps and making a management system to go in between to keep the EDLCs topped up, where the EDLCs would do the cranking, and as soon as the car starts, the lithium supercaps would immediately start filling the EDLCs back up very quickly.
I’ll definitely do more research on this and update if I’m missing something.
@@KeonsLab A group of friends and I do overlanding in Oregon. We switched to induction cook tops to minimize fire risk and propane bombs attached to our vehicles. Then we added Starlink and a few other things so we could spend more time on our trips. Currently, my 97 F250 has 400ah 12v of LiFePO4 charged by the altnernator or 700W of solar on the lumber rack. We have a few vehicles with similar configurations. An alternator went out on one and the solar charged the lead acid battery under the hood for 600 miles of the trip and we learned that it saved 2mpg. We are designing a complete re-do going to 48v and more than 1000ah. So why use an alternator that peaks at 15.7v? Why not remove the two 12v lead acid batteries that offer 1600 CCA together? Seems like building the array of supercapacitors to handle 16v and then in series for the correct number of joules would be more robust, work better in the cold, recharge fast off the 48v system, and save mpg. This is my winter project.
Ooh now THAT is cooll!!! A textbook about lithium supercapacitors that I'm reading actually does mention that as the technology continues to evolve, lithium hybrid supercapacitors will become the ultimate power source for EVs in general as the world heads in the direction of full-electrification.
So I think you may have a pretty decent idea here. Since those lead acid batteries must get quite heavy, contributing to more fuel consumption as well.
And not just that, I think that vehicle-mounted solar power in conjunction with these cells, like on vans (for the community who do the 'van life' stuff), could be quite the upgrade.
From what I understand, while lead-acid batteries are extremely robust across basically all conditions, the advantages of supercapacitors could probably easily outweigh that factor.
Are you planning on using the supercapacitors just for starting the engine, and similar short, high-power bursts? Or also for powering the cook tops and other things? @@b97209
@@KeonsLab At this point, I think the supercapicitors would work well for the 12v system needed to run the glow plugs/starter/engine/accessories and get refilled quickly by LiPo. We learned over the past few years that we need to think in periods of a week instead of 24 hours. Solar happens during the day. We cook as the sun goes down. Starlink is on all night. Coffee in the morning. But some days are snowy, overcast, rainy. So we are looking for the average solar over 7 days for charging. Was looking at the Dakota Dual Purpose for starting. Expensive. Might as well go for supercapacitors and have no worries about starting when it is single digits out. Looking to use an MPPT from the LiPo to the supercapacitors so we don't stress the existing system.
How do you make sure the caps stay balanced?
Oh no did I not mention that? I must’ve cut it out by accident. :(
Anyways, here’s the answer to your question:
The reason I used three ‘port’ WAGO Connectors for all of them except the ones going to the aviation connector, is so that by leaving unused ‘ports’ they can be manually balanced until I make a custom balancing system which shouldn’t be THAT hard to do, but it’ll take a little bit because I’m doing so many projects at the same time.
Right now though, I’m not really balancing them as a little experiment given that they’re all new cells to see how much deviation I see after ~10 or so charge cycles
@@KeonsLab simplest solution is to clamp the maximum voltages of the caps with a transistor and a zener or with a opamp if you want higher accuracy.
The thermal camera should have an adjustable MSX distance in the settings.
I’ll check, but I think the model I got didn’t have that option but I’ll double check.
EDIT: I FIXED IT THANK YOUU!! Turns out there was a slider for adjusting the camera angles in front of me all along, I have no idea how I missed it!!
The thermal ‘holograms’ are finally gone!
One of the most helpful comments I’ve ever gotten thanks!
3d print a jig where you can place the fan 'free floating' in it.....the housing for the fans, place attachment points/ make some sort of way to thread a harness through.... as simple as utilizing multiple rubber bands -thick ones. So that when placed together you will have a main structure and then the fan with the housing free floats within.... if you where to touch the fan housing, it should be able to "bob" or bounce arround without too much force. At the back side have a solid wall or a ducted setup that maybe you could open/ close(for future sensors). Attached to the back side utilize a luggage scale- relatively cost effective- have big legible screens displaying how many LBS or KG is being pulled on it- possibly simple to incorporate into some loginging settup with a Pi. Make the jig universal so that you can have it be able to test out other turbines..fans...hamsters.....etc.... and what I was thinking with the ducted rear is to be able to direct the output air at something like what you see on weather stations...those spinny things that measure the wind speeed. So you'll have the force, and the output wind speed....maybe add another to the front to see the input air speed?
The above would make for an awesome series, not to mention a scientific tool for measurement.
Not sure why that text got crossed out like that..but neat regardless...
I have a couple load cells, 2” OLED displays and I plan to do exactly that. At the moment I’m designing a handheld device where the jet fan will have a drill-type grip and trigger on it with potentially detachable nozzles which could be switched out “bayonet style”.
The ESC will be housed in the grip with three plunger contacts and a slide-on version of the jet fan housing with brass or copper “sleds” as contacts. I’m still figuring it out though.
I’m also really curious how much thrust the jet fan is making so I’ll definitely be testing that too.
I’ve got many , many cool video ideas planned so I’ll do my best!
Those wire yellowish plugs are used on lithium batteries for drones. The other plugs, are aviation, but are used to connect radio communication devives and are common in avionics radios and ham/amateur radio equipment.
Guess i need somenof those caps. They are really cute. Shame you had zero wattmeters on everything lol
Thx for video.. and the price of things.. wait! :)
Yeah I regret not having them too.
Sorry about that. For my next video on these I’ll see if I can get one of those wattmeter + ammeter combos they use for batteries!
WAY too much detail on the SIZE of everything. Not enough on the actual run. You really need a current/voltage monitoring setup while it's running.
Sorry for that. I’ll try to do that for the next one. I’ll probably get one of those multimeters with the Hall effect ammeters. I’ll also generate some voltage vs current vs time curves to plot the discharge.
Thanks for the advice!
I welcome all constructive criticism so that I can make better videos.
The particular power supply looks like it may be suitable for the ESP wifi upgrade popping apart and find out you may be able to get the graphs and everything exported to web page in a live feed.
Ooh interesting idea! I do have an Arduino with SIM card capabilities that can send data live to a webpage. Are you saying maybe I could use an ammeter/voltmeter module and send it to a webpage for real-time monitoring?
Awesome idea!!! I really need to make more stuff with that Arduino MKR GSM1400
The offset is because you don't have your distance set right on your camera.
The image overlay on most low res thermal cameras (FLIR calls theirs MSX) is done by compositing the thermal image with a separate visible light image. Since the thermopile array and visible light cameras are physically separated the software has to know the distance to your target to align them properly.
Also if you want an accurate temperature you need a known emissivity surface. You can use masking tape or matte black spray paint to get a mostly emissive surface (around 98%) on an object of unknown emissivity. Those sueprcaps are gloss plastic on aluminum (both low emissivity surfaces) so possibly quite reflective to IR
Thanks!!! I’m still learning about IR imaging, now I know why whenever I put black sharpie on something it made it reflect less but never attributed it to emissivity. It’s too bad the FLIR One for mobile devices doesn’t let me set the distance, just lets me change temperature units.
I had always assumed that it was doing some sort of trigonometry given the known distance between the two cameras and using a Time-of-Flight sensor/LiDAR or something to determine the distance every time it calibrated.
I guess not?
Anyways, recently I’ve just been using an MLX90614 IR temperature sensor with an arduino for when I want more accurate readings for cold things because the FLIR One to me seems like it’s more effective as a visual aid than an actual engineering tool.
Am I missing something?
@@KeonsLab I haven't used the FLIR One before but looking at the manual there should be an option called "Close Up Mode" that enables what they call an "Optimization Slider" (distance setting). It couldn't use ToF since it has no way of knowing what object in the image you want to be aligned with (or even what an "object" is).
The Melexis can is gonna have all the same issues, just harder to track down since you can't visually see whats going on. It's still an IR sensor and still bound by the rules of emissivity and the native inaccuracy that comes with thermopiles. The accuracy spec will only be valid in perfectly ideal conditions, like if you've already pre-calibrated the emissivity of the target, the target fills up the entire FoV of the sensor, and the target is uniform in temperature (or you only care about the average anyway).
If you need accuracy you need a contact thermometer of some sort. Thermocouples are decently accurate (standard Type K is +/- 2C up to extremely hot temps) and RTDs are even better (Class A PT100 clocks in at +/- 0.3C or better for sub 100C measurements)
Very cool info, thanks! I finally figured out how to fix the alignment! There was a slider to adjust it and now it works perfectly, no more “holograms”!!!
I should really look through the manual again because I’m really interested to see what ‘close-up mode’ does.
While I don’t have any thermocouple right now I do have some Dallas Instruments precision temp. sensors as well as some thermistors. I’ll try and compare with those.
Since I’m mostly measuring cold temps (down to -60°C), it’s kinda challenging to know whether my measurements are accurate or not. I’m thinking of using super thin enameled copper wire with fibreglass around it as a sort of heat brake.
I’ll keep at it though maybe I’ll find a solution!
I really appreciate your detailed and helpful comments 😄
The new 'hybrid' cap's aren't magic though - there's always a price to pay, all of engineering is about compromise.
In this case, like any other battery, there's a minimum charge voltage: you need to be careful to keep each cell >2.5V, else they'll die (not something you have to worry about with those other ultracaps).
The datasheet also claims the 'feature' : (and I quote): "- No Explosion Safety".
Whether this means they have removed the explosions, or the safety mechanism preventing the explosions, is not clear. ;)
Seriously though, measures to prevent explosion on a short would hinder peak current performance, so maybe not having that hindance is the 'feature'?
To put it in perspective, the maximum energy these can hold (if we believe them to be caps!) is 0.5*1100*(4)^2, or 8.8kJ...(square the voltage not the capacitance!) but don't worry, as the datasheet reveals that they're actually batteries, with around 450mAh capacity, so the maximum energy is more like 0.5*(4.0-2.5) * (3600*0.45) = 1.215 kJ... although if you dig further into the datasheet, it says the capacity is more like 0.3444 Ah at 25 deg C: 0.93 kJ.
So, assuming the last number, we have 930 J with an ESR of 0.0382 Ohms... assuming the capacity wouldn't be even lower in a sudden discharge (which it certainly would - the numbers are for 1A), we'd expect a peak power of V^2/(4*ESR), or 104W (per cell). Which could last about 9 seconds.
So, actually fairly impressive. The 3-cell "12V" packs there should be good for about 300W for 9 seconds or so: This is comparable to an overweight and unfit guy on a treadmill if he holds his breath and goes maximum effort starting from rest, and stops as soon as he must breath.
So far as explosions goes - well, it's a lithium cell, and each weighs 20grams, so I'm sure you can *make* that happen. They're rated for 6A, with an absolute max of 40A, but you might get them up to 100A or so if shorted... I'd suggest leaving that experiment to someone with the proper bomb test range & high speed camera.
I think by 2.42MJ, you meant 2.42Wh? Since 0.5*1100*4^2 = 8800 J, or 8.8kJ, and converting 8.8kJ to Wh gives 2.44Wh. However, these are not capacitors in the traditional sense where energy is stored electro statically, and they are not batteries, where energy is stored through mostly just the REDOX set of reactions. This is the reason the datasheet has both Farad and mAh units side by side, they are literally using both battery and capacitor units of measuring stored energy because these are hybrid Supercapacitors, they consist of one electrode, usually the anode, which would be typical of a lithium ion battery, with a cathode similar to those found in EDLCs; activated carbon, where the carbon has been Lithiated. And both electrodes are chemically connected via an ionic separator and lithium ion containing electrolyte. However, hybrid lithium Supercapacitors, while also functioning on the same principle as lithium ion batteries: the reversible intercalation and de-intercalation of lithium ions;
The hybrid supercapacitor, by using an EDLC type electrode manufactured for this specific purpose, allows for extremely fast migration (or intercalation and de-intercalation)
of the lithium ions, which allows for the high discharge and charge rates, but who’s different electrochemistry means the mAh unit, is not to be considered on its own.
This is because the mAh units here are basically ‘mAh equivalents’, where the actual ‘mAh equivalent’ decreases as charge rate increases during discharge, unlike the Farad rating which is being used to describe the total amount of energy stored in the cell, a value which unlike the mAh equivalent, is not driven by the discharge rate. You can see this in one of the graphs in the datasheet where they show ‘mAh’ vs Discharge Rate.
This is why the ‘Ah’ rating doesn’t stay the same in the datasheet as you mentioned. The reason it states 450 ‘mAh’ (mAh equivalent, not actual mAh units like those used for batteries) in the beginning, then shows a chart with ‘mAh’ vs Temperature vs Charge rates of 600mA and 1A is to demonstrate exactly this:
mAh is being used in conjunction with a Farad rating to not only as accurately as possible communicate the energy stored per hybrid capacitor cell, but also due to the nominal voltage being so close to that of a standard lithium ion battery (3.7V), which not only makes calculations comparing the two easier, but more importantly allows for a C-rate to be determined given the discharge current and the cell’s mAh equivalent rating.
Also, I’m not sure where the 0.93 kJ value is coming from, the formula in the data sheet is for mWh, not Wh.
Converting 0.344Ah to Wh given a voltage of (4.0V-2.5V) gives 0.516Wh.
0.516Wh is 1894J, or 1.89kJ, more than double 930J.
I have used an electronic load tester to verify these values, and not only do they match, but the real-world mAh capacity calculated by the discharge tester when discharging a 4.0V cell from 4.0V down to ~2.51V is around 455mAh equivalent 5mAh higher than the rated mAh equivalent, as this was done at a 1C discharge rate (0.45A), because again, the mAh rating is not to be taken on its own, it is meant to be considered together with the Farad rating. They’re hybrid Supercapacitors so they have a hybrid set of energy storage units.
In terms of explosion risk, these do not contain any metallic lithium, so as far as I can tell here, the only risk of explosion would be thermal runaway/over voltage causing a buildup of gases, and blowing the vent, rather than an actual chemical reaction that sprays fire like with Li-Po cells for example.
We can see this demonstrated in a video by the channel ‘GreatScott’, where he stabs a nail through a 3.2 or 3.8V (I can’t remember at the moment) Lithium SuperCapacitor cells, and no fire is created. I’m pretty sure “No Explosion Safety” is just due to a bad translation because everything else on the document indicates that they are not hazardous goods.
Though I do admit the datasheet does not make this clear, which is why the presence of both F and mAh may cause some confusion. It’s something I also wasn’t too sure about until I started researching this technology super thoroughly. In fact, there was an article on how this is a topic that will cause confusion as the definition of ‘batteries’ and ‘Supercapacitors’ become closer to the point where the electrochemistry and cell construction would be used to determine one from the other.
Right you are! I had erroneously swapped the capacitance and voltage in the calc 🤦
could you share link where you bought those caps
Hi, nice intro to using Li-ion caps.
How about you put a circuit breaker in the Li-ion lead, you are playing with a lot of power that can quite easily cause destruction to any equipment it is connected to, and/or injury to the experimenter.
Have you checked the balance of charge on each of the three capacitors?
Will you be doing this as you scale up the number of capacitors in your power bank?
That is a BMS?
Oh definitely, I have a bunch of different self resetting fuses and normal fuses, as well as a traditional circuit breaker like those that pop out on the end of extension cords but rated for 35A. I’ll include them in my next video about these.
I’m also planning on building what I’ll be naming the CMS, or capacitor management system, basically like a BMS for high current with a microcontroller running a charging routine I’ve been working on refining for quite a bit.
As for balancing, I’ll have to include that as part of the CMS, for now, I’m just using all new cells and I’m going to check the charge of each individual cell after about 8 to 10 charge cycles to see how much deviation there is. I know there should be balancing from the start but I’m doing a little experiment to see how much change there is.
When I make this into a bigger bank though, 100% balancing will have to be included.
Make a power supply that maximizes out the fans. Im curious how much thrust you will get
Yes I’m planning on doing both! I’m also really curious to know how much thrust it’s producing
Great video.
From which Website you baught those. Can you give the link ???
Many others have prepared this experiment - IMHO - The XT60 connectors are better for this type of current
Yeah, the XT60’s are rated to handle much higher amounts of current (~60A continuous), while the aviation connectors I used are rated for 10A current (at 220VAC, so it might be a bit higher for the lower DC voltages I’m using).
If I was installing these permanently I’d definitely go with the XT60 connectors, they’re plastic too so there’s no worries of them causing a short when placed against a PCB. The aviation connectors are just so convenient for experimenting and changing connections around because they’re much easier to take apart.
watch out with getting the voltage too low, the gates of the mosfets might not open fully and they might blow from all the power demand! i have blown esc's with too weak Li batteries.
That’s a very interesting piece of info! Thanks for letting me know!
No links to the fans or caps?
Guess not....
Hope price drops fast.. Those are nice caps, but those prises 😬
Yeah me too, I think once their energy density improves a little bit more, and they start making them in flat pack formats (like Li-Po batteries), they’ll start being adopted for lower power consumer electronics like video game controllers, electric toothbrushes, etc. where a big selling point would be the lifespan and/or charging speed of the cells.
@@KeonsLab kinda like that 18mm diameter.. Maybe I can use some 18650 cell holders to hold those.. Bunch of those with 21700 cells in my scoot would be something to test for.
Omg I was thinking of the same thing a while back! I was considering bending one of the leads back and putting the cell into an 18650-style steel cylinder to make them easier to work with and provide some heat dissipation.
That’s really cool! :) I personally hope they make these cells in a flat-pack style similar to Li-po batteries, that would be SO awesome
@@KeonsLab did u find cheaper place than ali's over 11e/pc
For these specific models it’s up to the manufacturer to lower the prices it seems like. I got them for about $17 each last year and they’ve only gotten a few dollars cheaper since then.
I think once they begin getting used in more places they’ll lower in price. Since they don’t seem to manufacture a whole lot of them at the moment.
What is the run time in a full build?
I'm working on replicating the current draw of the fan using the discharge tester to get an exact value and also have it calculate the total energy used. I didn't discharge it fully to its minimum voltage while making this video but I'm really wondering this as well.
Once I have all the data I'll probably make a part 2 or something going into detail.
can i make a catpack fore my rc boat ?
Of course, however, this was more of a demo, not so much a tutorial (yet) because I did leave out some rather important safety features like fuses, balancing, over/under voltage protection, current protection, etc. which would be required for others to follow safely if being used for general applications.
I would personally suggest to not follow what I did in this video if it’s going to be used for something like an RC boat or any other actual application other than experimenting in a controlled environment.
I’ll start working on a part 2 soon where I will address everything and make a proper tutorial on making a supercap bank suitable for general use.
I hope this makes sense. :)
thanks@@KeonsLab
I was thinking about subscribing until I saw you use a macbook... I am only partially joking lol
😂 tbh the OS and screen is the only thing 'good' about it. [Apple rant warning:] Otherwise it overheats to the point that I can feel the heat radiating off of it when trying to do any work with it like editing 1080p in premiere pro, the SSD is too small, the 8gb RAM gets annoying sometimes, the screen & build quality are decent but they better be given their price points. And oh my god iCloud is horrible sometimes, it tries to create the illusion of free space by deleting local files and uploading them to iCloud WHILE THE FILES ARE BEING USED.
So for example, I had ~5gb free on the drive and was editing in premiere pro, where I made the mistake of saving the project file in 'My Documents' which happens to be shared with iCloud. This means voice-over audio files were stored in the same place.
So the sneaky cloud service would delete the local copies of voice-overs as soon as I'd start editing a different part of the video, or quickly switch from premiere pro to chrome and back (no more than 30s), and the premiere pro would be all like "Sorry, can't find your audio files you just recorded 2 minutes ago, guess you better restart the program", so I'd have to go in the file browser, redownload the local copy, restart premiere pro, and do this dozens of times.
I finally got an external hard drive and was able to free up more space, but I cannot believe the AUDACITY of it to keep deleting my local files even after I redownload them... Windows or Google Drive would never do that.
It was so frustrating, and I wished I could just pour gallium (I have 2 small vials of gallium) all over the macbook but didn't. (mostly kidding 😂)
If macOS could be installed on a desktop (I tried but the 'hackinstosh' thing didn't work for my hardware, and I also had safety concerns)
I'd bet Apple would lose a lot of their sales. Because the OS does to a certain extent make things like coding and editing easier, but for the most part they're all linux features that Apple just re-polished which makes it just a little more convenient for some tasks.
I hope this makes you feel better 🙂
23:10 Never do that with WAGO and that type of cable. You must use wire end sleeve for example WAGO E2ZDT
Those are the ferrules right?
Twisting the wires is just a bad habit I need to get over. But aren’t WAGO connectors made for both solid and stranded wire?
Please do correct me if I’m wrong because I tried searching online but can’t find any definitive answers regarding the ferrules for WAGO connectors & stranded wire.
Most of what I found indicated that stranded wire is fine for WAGO connectors, they just shouldn’t be twisted.
Thank you so much for your comment, I really appreciate it because learning together is what makes this platform so special.
its a lot easer to say Kapton
Yeah, it’s what I’ve usually heard it being called too.
I’ll try to use both names in the future.
How much are those caps i can’t find s price
When I got them last year they were about $17 each, I think they’ve gotten a few dollars cheaper since then but they don’t seem to manufacture them in super large quantities because when I had placed my large order back then it took them a few weeks to get them all ready. But at least they were fresh :)
There’s a few different manufacturers of hybrid supercaps but these were the best value I could find in terms of voltage and capacity per cell
my macbook reaches 119C even when i am only using 6 out of 8 cores of the cpu.
Wow that’s a lot! Have you noticed an impact on the battery life as well?
not really because thats only when i am rendering stuff on it
too many words
Not a jet turbine ! But w/e .
😅 I know, it just sounds way cooler calling it a jet turbine :) I love jet engines and they look like mini jet engines haha
@@KeonsLab ya gotta have some fun
Where was the discharge readings and what's the self discharge test. Make. Short video. Your videos are too long for the stuff you showed.
Yeah I’m working on making my videos a bit shorter, I was thinking of maybe making two videos for projects like this, one long one with all the details and one shorter one as a brief overview with more of a focus on demonstrating the final product.
Why didn't you record the fan with the flir ughhhh..and callibrate it for F sakes!
The fan itself barely heated up, so there wasn’t really much to see, but for the calibration, I wish I could manually calibrate it but the model I have (FLIR One Gen 3) is quite limited in its features, so it does an auto-calibration on its own. I’m not super impressed with this model of FLIR camera either. The only setting it lets me change is the colour scheme, and the units of temperature (Celsius and Fahrenheit, not even Kelvins). And while the ‘Pro’ version did have other features like multi-zone temperature reading (multiple crosshairs), I couldn’t justify the price since I also needed to get materials (like Nitinol wire, springs, and sheets, quite a bit of solid copper, big heatsinks, as well as many other rather costly supplies which I don’t wanna spoil the surprise of, because they’re really cool)
Sorry about that.
EDIT: I fixed the issue with the thermal ‘holograms’! I just had to adjust a setting for the camera alignment so now it works perfectly!!!
I have some brand new Tesla cells if anyone need it
Woah you mean like the ones from the Tesla cars? I’ve been so curious about those! Do you know any details about them like the capacity, voltage, etc.?
@@KeonsLab sure I will get you aspect of it
I can send you some they would be ideal for ur project I
I’m kinda interested now :), Feel free to send me an email with more details and I’ll see what I can do!
My channel’s email address is in the ‘About’ section. 😁
Nerd crap