I enjoyed the video and thought it was well put together for a newcomer to producing videos. As always there are more than one way to do things and people are quick to point that out. You came up with 8 serviceable T nuts which is wat you set out to do so well done you.
Hi there , Steve here, came a cross your post and see that your power table feed is out of order. Well I got me Atlas Mill also, And I found if one does not lock down the lead screw, bad things happen. Tryen to find replacement some what most not so good. So I spent the next 8 months and you gessed it. Fixed my mill and made a few extra which I gave away. I'm seeing that there are few more in need, rite now I'm not set up and it does take some time. Getting paid for the time to make a set, If I made and sold one set I be a rich. So I'm putting a feeler out just to see, if gearing back up, got the tooling, in a day or two I could be back on track. So let me know, Thank You for your time.
Thanks for sharing. It was a fun to watch! Good idea to run the bar the other back through turned around. It looked from the camera angle that when the bar was tight, there was more clearance on the one shoulder. Keep after it and I hope you are willing to make more videos. Joel......
Looks like a very good condition Atlas. Hope you don't mind a few suggestions tho. It would have taken just slightly longer if you'd cut that bar in half so the material is held inside the vise jaws or just slightly longer. Maybe 1/2" longer on each side maximum. These light weight machines are already a bit flexible so need all the help you can provide. Clamp the same size bar in your vise again with about the same length sticking out. Then set an indicators tip on the top and just use hand pressure and you'll see right away what I mean. Do the same on the side of the bar. Then visualize the cutting tool pressures. The same was happening while you were drilling the first few holes. I also very much agree with whoever mentioned not having full threads going right through those tee nuts. You will break a lip out of your table sooner or later just from the stud or bolt acting like a jack. Teco clamp sets for example don't have the tee nuts fully threaded to stop that problem. This video was made over a year ago so you may already have learned a lot about your Atlas. The MFC models had an extended Y axis screw and mount plus a couple of holes tapped into the face of the part that joins the horizontal support and the cutting tool arbor. Those were for an optional vertical support bar that attached at that point and also clamped to the Y axis bearing support just behind the operating handle. In use the top bolts are slacked off a bit any time you need to move the knee and then tightened once the knee is in the correct position. These little mills need all the rigidity you can gain and it's not impossible to build your own parts to do exactly what Atlas did. But you weren't making those tee nuts the hard way, a file and a hand operated egg beater type drill would have been the hard way. :-)
Chip, make sure the stud doesn't go through the t-nut. If it does center punch the last thread. If the nut should lock on the stud and bottom out in the t-slot, you could blow out the top of the slot. Nice vid.
I love a horizontal mill... But with my space and cost constraints I'll have to stick with my milling attachment on my lathe and keep on breaking the endmills. ;) Lovely machine... not a bad job either.
I wanted a Atlas horizontal mill to make my 12 and 6 inch atlas lathes but came across a Sheldon Vernon instead it's a heavy beast but I couldn't beat the price and it's in great condition looks hardly used when I took it apart as I do with all my machines and restore them, have restored and sold 6 atlas lathes as people realize that buying vintage is the best way to buy
Yep! I saw at least one commentor thought the same thing I did. When center-drilling, drilling and counter-sinking the holes, after finding the location of the first center-drill, set your table dials at zero. Then, crank your table left, 1-inch at a time, doing all 8 center-drill operations first (using your dials as the measurers). Lower the table to do the 8 drillings next, feeding right, 1-inch at a time (again, using your dials to measure). Then, raise the table, feed left for the counter-sink operation. Saves the arms, as you're only lowering/raising the table a couple times (to complete the whole piece). My guess is that, by now, you've figured that out.
I found that by using fixturing clamps on the base of my vise rather than the stock bolts with washers in the slots, it stays trammed when I tighten it down. I really like your atlas mill, theres one for sale near me and i’m trying to justify buying it. I always take up expensive hobbies, i swear i could spend thousands even if i took up writing poetry.
Could be that the vise moved on your first cut on the Atlas. I had those type issues on the Atlas as well. I found you could get better results with lighter passes. Sold my Atlas mill.
15:55 It's been bothering me for a while but it looks like your arbor spacers are clamping the cutters by their cutting surfaces ! I totally approve of large diameter spacers as it adds significant rigidity to the arbor but they should match the mounting/clamping faces on the cutters.
Ed Hartgrove wedding rings too had to more than once fish out da finger put on ice and warp speed to clinic get the employee there and bag up so didnt bleed on interor
I would have marked out my individual T nuts on the piece, then drilled the hole for each and bolted the piece directly to the table- a lot more stable.
An easier order of operation would be: center drill all holes, drill all holes, then tap all holes. Will save a lot of table up and down movement and a lot of time.
Nice Video, I hope you keep making more. It may just be me, but I’m new to Machining also. But it seemed like you were taking too deep of Cuts? You do have better and bigger Machines than I have also though. Anyway I enjoyed the Video. 👍
I would only suggest not thru tapping the holes , tap till the tap just comes flush with the bottom. Your machine will end up with the slots busting . Yes it's the right way to make them. I know this is an older video.
Am I the only one who thought for sure that tap was gonna break on the first hole! Careful with those bolts running all the way through the t nut. I’d hate to see a blown on table.
ChipMaker 1066, I like your Atlas horizontal mill. Now I'm not a machinist nor do I play one on YT, but it seems like you wasted a lot of time with tool changes while drilling and tapping your part. Since all of the holes were on the same plane or axis it would be far quicker to drill all of the holes first and then come back and tap them. Of course a DRO would make this easier, but the dial works fine if you watch out for backlash. I hope this is helpful. Peace!
I enjoyed the video and thought it was well put together for a newcomer to producing videos. As always there are more than one way to do things and people are quick to point that out. You came up with 8 serviceable T nuts which is wat you set out to do so well done you.
Hi there , Steve here, came a cross your post and see that your power table feed is out of order. Well I got me Atlas Mill also, And I found if one does not lock down the lead screw, bad things happen. Tryen to find replacement some what most not so good. So I spent the next 8 months and you gessed it. Fixed my mill and made a few extra which I gave away. I'm seeing that there are few more in need, rite now I'm not set up and it does take some time. Getting paid for the time to make a set, If I made and sold one set I be a rich. So I'm putting a feeler out just to see, if gearing back up, got the tooling, in a day or two I could be back on track. So let me know, Thank You for your time.
Cool mill. I just made some on my Atlas shaper. The how not to comment cracked me up. Nice job.
Thanks for sharing. It was a fun to watch! Good idea to run the bar the other back through turned around. It looked from the camera angle that when the bar was tight, there was more clearance on the one shoulder. Keep after it and I hope you are willing to make more videos. Joel......
Really love your videos. Really looking forward to more 8520 videos.
Wow you have some nice tool boxes! I like your video. Keep it up.
Looks like a very good condition Atlas. Hope you don't mind a few suggestions tho. It would have taken just slightly longer if you'd cut that bar in half so the material is held inside the vise jaws or just slightly longer. Maybe 1/2" longer on each side maximum. These light weight machines are already a bit flexible so need all the help you can provide. Clamp the same size bar in your vise again with about the same length sticking out. Then set an indicators tip on the top and just use hand pressure and you'll see right away what I mean. Do the same on the side of the bar. Then visualize the cutting tool pressures. The same was happening while you were drilling the first few holes. I also very much agree with whoever mentioned not having full threads going right through those tee nuts. You will break a lip out of your table sooner or later just from the stud or bolt acting like a jack. Teco clamp sets for example don't have the tee nuts fully threaded to stop that problem.
This video was made over a year ago so you may already have learned a lot about your Atlas. The MFC models had an extended Y axis screw and mount plus a couple of holes tapped into the face of the part that joins the horizontal support and the cutting tool arbor. Those were for an optional vertical support bar that attached at that point and also clamped to the Y axis bearing support just behind the operating handle. In use the top bolts are slacked off a bit any time you need to move the knee and then tightened once the knee is in the correct position. These little mills need all the rigidity you can gain and it's not impossible to build your own parts to do exactly what Atlas did.
But you weren't making those tee nuts the hard way, a file and a hand operated egg beater type drill would have been the hard way. :-)
At 5:20 +- you measure the example nut & declare that it will take a .330 cut. Then you dial in a .230 cut. How did that work?
Only problem I see with atlas horizontal mills is the only 5/8 inch arbor shaft, Sheldon used a 7/8 and really makes a difference in less chatter
Chip, make sure the stud doesn't go through the t-nut. If it does center punch the last thread. If the nut should lock on the stud and bottom out in the t-slot, you could blow out the top of the slot. Nice vid.
nice video , but why not center drill all the holes then go to the drill and so on. ?
I love a horizontal mill... But with my space and cost constraints I'll have to stick with my milling attachment on my lathe and keep on breaking the endmills. ;)
Lovely machine... not a bad job either.
It's just a T-nut, He He. but it still has to be square. Love your machine, NICE.
I wanted a Atlas horizontal mill to make my 12 and 6 inch atlas lathes but came across a Sheldon Vernon instead it's a heavy beast but I couldn't beat the price and it's in great condition looks hardly used when I took it apart as I do with all my machines and restore them, have restored and sold 6 atlas lathes as people realize that buying vintage is the best way to buy
Yep! I saw at least one commentor thought the same thing I did. When center-drilling, drilling and counter-sinking the holes, after finding the location of the first center-drill, set your table dials at zero. Then, crank your table left, 1-inch at a time, doing all 8 center-drill operations first (using your dials as the measurers). Lower the table to do the 8 drillings next, feeding right, 1-inch at a time (again, using your dials to measure). Then, raise the table, feed left for the counter-sink operation. Saves the arms, as you're only lowering/raising the table a couple times (to complete the whole piece). My guess is that, by now, you've figured that out.
how often do you snap off taps? they make special dual direction chucks for tapping. you should have made them with steel, and case hardened them
Just a note on the bandsaw when cutting parts mark it with to lies the width of the saw blade and you will be able to saw within 005-010 easy.
Alec
Nice little machine...
I found that by using fixturing clamps on the base of my vise rather than the stock bolts with washers in the slots, it stays trammed when I tighten it down. I really like your atlas mill, theres one for sale near me and i’m trying to justify buying it. I always take up expensive hobbies, i swear i could spend thousands even if i took up writing poetry.
I understand. I’m the same way
What kind of vise is that you have for your atlas mill? I also have an atlas but I am in need of a good vise.
I put a magnet in my oil can. Keep it from moving around.
Could be that the vise moved on your first cut on the Atlas. I had those type issues on the Atlas as well. I found you could get better results with lighter passes. Sold my Atlas mill.
Great video!
15:55 It's been bothering me for a while but it looks like your arbor spacers are clamping the cutters by their cutting surfaces ! I totally approve of large diameter spacers as it adds significant rigidity to the arbor but they should match the mounting/clamping faces on the cutters.
A little high on the rpm, and a little light on the feed IMO
Oh, yeah! Almost forgot. You might wanna ditch the gloves when working around power tools. Don't believe me? Just ask "Lefty"!
Ed Hartgrove wedding rings too had to more than once fish out da finger put on ice and warp speed to clinic get the employee there and bag up so didnt bleed on interor
I would have marked out my individual T nuts on the piece, then drilled the hole for each and bolted the piece directly to the table- a lot more stable.
An easier order of operation would be: center drill all holes, drill all holes, then tap all holes. Will save a lot of table up and down movement and a lot of time.
nice mills i have the clausing but it has a bridgeport m-head on it Love It except lost ~ 2 " so i eed a riser
Nice Video, I hope you keep making more. It may just be me, but I’m new to Machining also. But it seemed like you were taking too deep of Cuts? You do have better and bigger Machines than I have also though. Anyway I enjoyed the Video. 👍
nice atlas just picked one up
I wonder why are you hand feeding the Atlas if it's got a powerfeed...
Listen in about the 7:00 minute mark
Why crank the knew up all the way With only .050 cut ?
You should have jacks under the over hang on the ends
Cute little mill!
That part was hanging out a bit, best to support it on the end.
Looks like you are missing a gib screw on the Clausing vise.
just power feed the tap in & out i do it down to 2-56
I would only suggest not thru tapping the holes , tap till the tap just comes flush with the bottom. Your machine will end up with the slots busting . Yes it's the right way to make them. I know this is an older video.
Am I the only one who thought for sure that tap was gonna break on the first hole!
Careful with those bolts running all the way through the t nut. I’d hate to see a blown on table.
You really should use more oil,, will cut better and save those expensive cutters
À vendre ?
"E" for effort on your first video.
Practice makes perfect.
ChipMaker 1066, I like your Atlas horizontal mill. Now I'm not a machinist nor do I play one on YT, but it seems like you wasted a lot of time with tool changes while drilling and tapping your part. Since all of the holes were on the same plane or axis it would be far quicker to drill all of the holes first and then come back and tap them. Of course a DRO would make this easier, but the dial works fine if you watch out for backlash. I hope this is helpful.
Peace!
em ham cái máy này lắm,mà kiếm mua không có.
What can I expect to pay for an Atlas? They're scarce on craigslist.
👍🇻🇪 calidad 👏👏👏
Slow down your tapping speed.
you sure like to talk alot
👍🇻🇪 calidad 👏👏👏