A guide to Pond Phosphate (useful for koi & all fish ponds)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ค. 2021
- Koi ponds and fish ponds in general all suffer from blanket weed and algae at some point in their life cycle. The food for these annoying plants and organisms is often nitrate which is a by-product of the biological filtration process but quite often it is also phosphate. Phosphate is essentially plant food, fertiliser if you like. So its not hard to see why having it in your pond water causes issues.
In this video I'll go through what it is, how it gets in your ponds, and how you can minimise the levels.
Its not an easy thing to eradicate completely but understanding phosphate will help you to minimise the impact it has on your particular pond system.
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Love the information videos you do Daz there a massive help. Thanks Rex
Thanks Rex, much appreciated as always Sir 👍👍
Thanks Daz. Lots of detail but very clearly explained like all your videos.
Thanks Mark, I appreciate that 🍻🍻👍👍🍻🍻
Thanks for the great videos! your always a wealth of knowledge!!!
Cheers John, I appreciate that 🍻🍻🍻
Great video as always mate, learnt so much from your channel 👍
Thanks Pal, good to hear that Sir 👍👍
I used to come down your way a lot back in the day. Used to visit Maurice Cox at Koi UK a lot. And Yumekoi to when I had a bit more money to spend 😁😁
It always amazes me how you manage to get most levels where you want them but there's always a hidden one you over look. Great video with some sound advice. 👍
True that mate. With me it was a case of, once the more important ones where right I started looking closer at the less important ones. In order of priority for me, O2, Ammonia, nitrite, pH, KH, nitrate, GH, phosphate
Excellent info. Keep up the good work
Thanks very much mate, will do 👍👍👍
Another great video Daz..👌
Cheers Andrew 🍻👍🍻
Thanks for the video, mate. My old man passed away this year so I've taken over looking after his pond - phosphate seems to be the hardest one to control when it comes to water quality! I'm doing all the right stuff, as you cover here, but I'll think I just have to accept 10ppm and treat the symptoms as and when they occur. The fish are happy and the water is clear, save a smattering of small algae splodges on the pond bottom!
Hello mate, I'm really sorry to here about your Dad, hope you are going OK.
Yeah most times you can't really do a lot with high phosphate. Bringing it down chemically is not practical and you can usually dilute it either as the tap water often has very high levels. Mines at 2.0 permanently and to be honest I don't see any impact at all now that everything is stable and consistent.
If I see the start of a bit of weed on the walls I just chuck in some hydrogen peroxide and it stops it 👍👍
Nice update I've got to admit I'm guilty of not testing phosphates, will test it tomorrow and check levels, stay safe and well
Cheers Carol, you to 🍻👍🥂🥂👍🍻
Hi Daz
Thanks for the information very interesting and nicely explained 👍
Cheers mate, thanks a lot 🍻🍻
Another interesting one. I'd been wondering where the phosphate was coming from, and had wondered why we have 3mg/l in the tapwater. A lot of our pipes round here are still lead (we have replaced from road to the house), so this makes complete sense. Thank you
No problem 🍻🍻
Great vid mucker, phosphate not somin ive ever tested on the pond 👌👍🐟
Thanks mate, I'm guilty of rarely bothering with it to. Its definitely useful to know where you are at though and understand why. Particularly if you are having trouble with persistent blanket weed 👍
👍👍 watching again as short memory and test showing a bit of phosphate
Haha, you listen to me more than my wife. She cant stand to hear my voice for more than a few minutes a day 😁😁😁
@@DazzleKoi 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Another quality video full of info.
Cheers 👍🏻
Does watercress not lower phosphates?
Hi Paul, yes watercress should lower phosphate , I believe floating baskets are a good way to introduce cress in a cleaner way 👍👍
Really interesting again, thanks a lot for putting it all together in a way my old brain get grasp :)
Interestingly (maybe) I recently looked into the possible reasons that 2 of my 3 tench had skeletal deformities, I found some research done in Poland, that found that tench fed solely on dry pellets were significantly more likely to develop deformities than those fed on natural diets. Additionally, it found that this was exacerbated by higher temperatures (I guess due to increased appetite and faster growth rates) and also due to *low* amounts of phosphate in the dry food used. My tench are given the same as my carp, which is the best I can afford (so not THE best as it were ;) ). This might all mean that if I'd fed the fish cheaper food I might have reduced the deformity or at least reduced the risk of it.
I also tested the nitrate in my tap water and found it was pretty high, higher than my pond water ever gets anyway - I'm going to test both it and the pond for phosphate, although, as you explained, it might not be possible to reduce it, and tbh I'm not that bothered by the algae on the walls of my pond
That's very interesting stuff mate. Fish do need the phosphate hence why its added to food, but I wonder if they are able to utilise phosphate that's in the water if it is lacking in their food? I'm guessing maybe not as its in phosphate form rather than phosphorous.
I have a similar issue with Phosphate. As my current pond is a smaller pre-formed pond it has a margin area which I can use to grow plants. But that in itself can cause issues. In the end you have to balance up what you feel is acceptable. I grow plants during the summer and remove them for winter. I also don't get too concerned with a layer of algae around the pond. As long as it doesn't become string algae or full on blanket weed I leave it alone. I did have to treat for blanket weed after I took my covers off so I expect the phosphate to rise a bit until it settles down again.
Yes mate, its definitely a balance and a compromise. As you say, plants help but come with downsides. Chemicals can help to but I don't like to put anything in unless I have to and in the case of phosphate removers its very expensive.
Nice helpful video 👍👍
And good to finally see you in the sunshine again 🤣🤣
Haha, thanks mate, yeah its nice to see the sun at last. Ironically I made another video at the weekend and when I came to edit it there is a massive sun glare right across the whole video. Looks like I'm going to have to do the whole thing again 😟
@@DazzleKoi
Any excuse to be beside the pond
😂😉😂
Very true, its the only time I get any peace. Even next door knows to go indoors when I'm filming 😁
@@DazzleKoi
Hahahahaha
That’s the line of the day 😂😂😂😂
Top man 👍👍👍
I’ve never tested for phosphate. I don’t get algae problems. But now you got me interested and I'd like to test for phosphate. I agree food quality makes a big difference though my staple food always have been hikari brand. Again good video on an interesting topic 👍. Very useful information you have covered 👌. I would think though that fast growing blanket weed and algae causing green water would destroy ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.
Hi mate, it certainly has a big effect on pH due to photosythesis. pH rises throughout daylight hours and falls again over night and this effect is increased when weed or algae is present.
Interesting video as always Daz. Does the phosphates at any level have any effect on Koi?
Hi mate, I have never found any solid evidence on this one way or another but definitely anything in high enough levels will kill fish so there is definitely a point at which it starts to harm them. I think from what I can find that it is very high though, way beyond what you would ever get in a pond.
Elevated levels do reduce the oxygen capacity though so it could become problematic that way. From what I can tell, it would basically cause asphyxiation before it became toxic in any way. Again though the level at which this becomes an issue seems unknown other than to say its very high.
Yet again another usefull video keep well and safe daz is that offer still in with the bakki media daz
Hi mate and thank you very much 👍👍
Last I heard , about 3 or 4 weeks ago, it was still on but I know he was struggling to keep up with the demand and people have had to wait quite a while for delivery. I'll send him over an email and ask 🍻🍻
I need 20kg mate thanks
Hi mate, I replied on the other video but if you haven't seen it he's able to do it for £69.95 plus £6.95 postage if you ring the office. Not as good as the original offer but still a good saving and a bargain in my opinion 👍👍
Cheers daz👍
Cheers Richard 🍻🍻🍻
As well as my pond I run a large Marine Reef system and phosphates have to be between 0 and 0.6 ppm. To get top up water for the evaporation at zero phosphates I run it through a RO system and then through DI resin (same as window cleaners use). I then run Rowaphos on the tank to take out phosphates from food etc. Not sure if viable on a pond given the amount of water but maybe could run an RO system and DI on a trickle in and out. The TDS of water going into my RO system and through DI is 360 as I live in a rural area and it comes out at zero. I also grow plants in my Bakki and that helps - water mint, mind your own business and some evergreen ferns etc
Hi Paul, that's a really interesting insight into another area of fishkeeping that obviously has similar issues. I do think RO is an option but it does come with its own downsides. I think I will study further in to RO and come back with a video solely on this in the future.
I dont fancy plants directly in my shower but I have toyed with the idea of having the shower output going in to some kind of waterway or trough system where it would travel along for around 6 or 8 feet before going back in to the pond. I would then put phosphate removing plants in this trough.
I probably don't have the space for it where I am now but when we move house in the future I plan to incorporate this in the new pond design.
Blimey nice lens Daz 👍
can I ask why you're not a fan of the blanket weed?
I wouldn't mind having it myself, looks pretty natural
Hi mate, and thanks 👍👍
It tends to come away constantly and produce bits in the water and if it goes really wild it will block drains and pipes etc. It just looks awful to me to to be honest, I like the pond to be spotless if possible. It also does impact on water parameters such as pH, causing big swings through the day due to photosynthesis.
Dazzle in marining Phosphate/Phosphorus with nitrite ammonia Ph were all 🗝 and used to use 🤔 was Chem Blue. And of recent with my pond I've started using Laguna PHOS X. Also before Laguna I used Aqua Care Green Away (No No No)!! That caused me a proper problem which I still have reminiscents on pond walls but it's dieing as rubs off easily.
So for me Ive got trickle in out and my last chamber has 4 bags of laguna phos x and will last 3 months, each box contains 2 bags for £12-15 does state 2 bags up to 5000ltr pond (I've found that to be incorrect) due to the levels from mains . But I think it's quite reasonable and my pond is staying crystal. 👍
Hi Simon, that does sound interesting, I'll check it out, thanks very much 👍
Thank you for doing that video. I have done a video the other day about phosphate binder, but as you say, because I instantly replace water from flushing the pod, it adds the Phosphate back in.
Our phosphate here is high, very high, tap is close to 5mg/l. So you can imagine my battle.
My pond is raised and fully covered, my pipes are new and I feed with Saki Hikari. So tap water is my problem. In the old pond I have only ever had blanket weed once, but then I was controlling the phosphate level.
I feel that this one is like a run around in circles situation, I am not keen on keeping adding a phosphate binder in the pond. Long term I don't think it can be any good for the fish.
Hi Lau, and thank you.
Ouch 5mgl is very high. I though I had problems with 2mg/l
You do need to keep on top of that in terms of not having additional sources such as run off or poor food as you don't want it going much higher.
As you say, its actually very difficult to get it under control without spending a lot of money or having plants.
@@DazzleKoi it is such a difficult one. The only thing I can think of at the moment, which I have tested with 5 litres bottles only is to store water in containers, let it rest for 48h then add it to the pond. But then you have problems with the space and storing water... 🙄🙄
Its a lot of work to. RO is another possible option but again its a lot of messing around and has its downsides.
Another very interesting video. if I heard you correctly, your trickle in/out system changes 100% of your water daily, are you on a water meter? And more importantly, doesn’t this affect the stability of your water. Over a month my tap water varies quite a bit, I do live in a very hard water area, my KH and GH are much higher than yours. Keep up the good work. Stay safe and well 👍🏻
Hi Steven, sorry for the delay in replying, no I mentioned around 100% a week at the moment (that's what I should have said anyway), not a day. I recommend at least 30 or 40% a week. Because I flush my filter every day I like it to be at least enough to replace what I lose from flushing the filter, overnight. So I flush it in the evening and the pond level drops a bit but by the morning the trickle has replaced it 👍
Great video again. The real problem seems the source water with high phosphate. Have you considered removing this. You would know, if not carbon I know a Merlin RO would remove phosphate. They are relatively inexpensive when compared to recycle RO. I think Merlins are used by window cleaners to purify their water when using a brush. Will be interested what you think?
Hi Anthony, yes an RO system will take phosphate out. It does tend to be expensive and a little complicated as once you start to use it you need to work to keep it consistent and keep on top of things. For me RO comes with too much hassle (it has its downsides to) for me to use it but I know many people do use it effectively.
I think its probably a topic that needs its own video at some point 👍👍
Great video.
Phosphates are a pain.
I grow cress in floating baskets it does help a bit and you can eat it.😎
Cheers Mark, you are right, its a right pain , sounds like the cress is a good option mate, do you have them in soil?
@@DazzleKoi I line the basket with hessian place some washed pea gravel and lodge them under it and let them get on with.
It grows rapidly and overflows the basket making a great floating bed of phosphate eating Cress.
Nice one, sounds good. Definitely an option 👍👍👍👍
Thanks D
You're welcome George 🍻🍻
👌👍
Looking at recycled RO that removes phosphate from source water, however expensive and then problems of very low kH so have to add to maintain pH, definitely not easy to sort.
Hi Gary, yes definitely an option but as you say, not an easy one and certainly not cheap. Definitely worth consideration though 👍👍
Couldn't you run the source water through a GFO (granular ferric oxide) bed? Probably not ideal in a continuous water change system where the source contains P04 but would certainly help.
Hi Jeremy, that's not something I've considered to be honest. I'll look in to that, thanks mate 🍻🍻
Hi again Jeremey, sorry, I did look at ferric oxide actually, it was the bed bit that threw me. I think it works but the issue with it is the volume I would need, the cost associated with it, and also the work involved in keeping it functioning which I think are all pretty prohibitive for my situation
Hi, another great video. What biomedia are you using in your bakki shower?
Hi mate, I have Aquasource Kano in my shower. I did a video series all about showers, from all the technical details on how and why they work etc right through how to build one at home yourself. Have a watch if you get chance, in the one on media I looked at lots of different medias and worked out which where the best ones 👍👍👍
Hi Mate,
Thank you for your response. Do you know if any substance is available to establish the inaerobic bacteria in bakki shower, like the material used in aerated moving beds? Many thanks. Lak.
Hi mate, as far as I know moving beds use plastic media which is not capable of housing anaerobic bacteria. This is where the shower is better as a shower with ceramic media holds anaerobic bacteria and removes nitrate from your water.
I have a video on my channel all about shower media and choosing the best one, have a look at the bakki shower playlist for all the videos 👍👍🍻🍻👍👍
th-cam.com/play/PL8fOvpW1cyY94aM9MTO-uFAof-BxVwPjA.html
Hi Mate, Thank you for your reply. My question asks, is there anything that will help to establish the anaerobic bacteria in the bakki shower? Thank you.
Ah sorry, yes I understand now. No, as far as I'm aware there is not. If you create the correct conditions for anaerobic bacteria to live (no oxygen) then nature will take its course and the bacteria will colonise naturally themselves. It does take a little longer than nitrifying bacteria.
Hi Daz. Could you not add a phosphate cartridge to your dechlorinator ?
Hi Andrew, other than using an RO system I don't believe its possible to remove it.RO is an option but its expensive and complicated and comes with other issues so I didn't mention it in this video but it may be an option for a future video.
Luckily I have a bore hole with water that's been passed to supply the cafe at my garden centre, where my pond is, no nasties to contend with, 50% water change a week no problem. Only issue is PH is 8.5,same as normal tap water.
Sounds good mate. While towards the higher end, pH of 8.5 is fine. As long as its stable, that's more important than the actually reading. As long as its within 7 and 9 that is 👍👍
I guess 3 stage filters or a big blue won't remove phosphate? What does it remove apart from chlorine?
Hi mate, sorry for the length of time its took me to reply, I've really fallen behind lately.
This is a massive can of worms as manufacturers claim all sorts of things and what they take out will vary from filter to filter and also by how new the activated carbon is, the flow through it, etc etc etc etc
Activated carbon CAN take out a lot of things and also CAN reduce the amount of a whole lot more. Carbon block filters as opposed to activated carbon powder also take out even more but need slower flow rates.
They definitely take out chlorine and chlorine by products. They usually take out most herbicides and pesticides. They generally leave in minerals. They do take out VOCs (volatile organic compounds).
It really is a minefield though and there are so many variables its impossible to say for any particular filter. I've never used anything like that myself and never had an issue so I don't consider them an essential. The only thing I would be concerned with in tap water is chlorine (which will gas off naturally if you manage the rate at which it goes in) and chloramine which will need to be removed and a bit of sodium thiosulphate will take care of that periodically.
@@DazzleKoi Thanks for the reply. I use sodium thiosulphate weekly and don't bother with a 3 stage. I know carbon filters are good things but the volume of water that is changed weekly in a pond makes me doubt they last.
I'm the same, I don't use any filtration on my tap water, just trickle in constantly, sometimes up to 100% a week. I never see any measurable chlorine in my pond. I do throw in a bit of sodium thiosulphate every now and again just to take out any chloramine that may have built up but to be honest I don't think its in my supply anyway.
COULD I ASK WHAT MAKE OF FOOD YOU USE
Hi Allan, yes Sir, I use Hikari Wheatgerm but all saki hikari products are excellent. They are not cheap but they are the best 👍👍
You didn't mention RO water, but I suppose that's another can of worm's
Hi Marek, no I'm not really familiar enough with it to be confident offering it as an option to be honest. I'd like to give it a run for myself though and make a video on RO in the future 👍👍
@@DazzleKoi well i was wondering the same thing ...ive just hooked one up for my small pond i dont really know to much about it either
Let us know how you get on with it mate, hopefully I can do a video on it in the future 👍
I don't think you can ever haver perfect water. Keep ammonia nitrite at zero. Ph stable which is hard with all this rain. Just once a week General clean and add clay
I agree mate. And it might get boring if you did 😁
@@DazzleKoi it's just ph kh swings I have a pergola with a sail similar to yours but thinking of putting some sort of roof on it. Keep the rain out
I've never noticed pH change with rain to be honest but I've probably never measured it often enough to see it. I see the natural swings as it climbs throughout the day due to photosynthesis and falls again over night but I haven't seen spikes from rain.
Fun fact my directly collected rain water has phosphate in it. Only slightly smaller amount than my tap water.
Hi Brendan, how is the water collected? Does it run across a roof or in guttering or anything like that?
@@DazzleKoi it was collected in a clean but empty fibreglass spill way. I was in the process of connecting to my pond for more plants.
Thats very strange then. Rainwater gets up there by evaporating from the ground, see, lakes so the process of evaporation should leave the phosphate behind. A bit like salty water evaporating leaves the salt behind as solid salt.
@@DazzleKoi we have some fresh rain coming by the weekend. I'll be sure to test again.
Bird droppings are also high in phosphates/phosphorous,, could that be a source?
Will be interesting to hear what you get when you test again 👍👍
We got 0.25ppm in tapwater to start with my water at the moment is clear still got a bit of blanket weed but not as much as I had I am gonna make a new pond hopefully soon so this vidio helped a bit by what you said thank u
Thanks a lot, that's good to hear. I still always have 2.0 phosphate as that's what's in my tap water but no issues with weed or algae. I have a shower to take out nitrate though.
What are your thoughts on clay? Some people believe it keeps the blanket weed at bay. Fok clay I believe.
Hi Mark, I haven't used clay before as it has a negative impact on water parameters that I wish to avoid such as increasing pH and generally taking water away from the parameters I'm trying to create. So I dont have any experience of whether or not it controls weed/algae growth.
I do have a bag of Mediclay here though that I bought to review but I just haven't been able to bring myself to add it yet