Nice video bro. Throw a little money into the interior of the 12 valve. Ever since I did mine ive been addicted to driving it. I do like smashing the 7.3 around tho. She just isnt as fast.
Id rather take the Ford's honestly I love the Cummins just as much as any other diesel but the 2nd Gen quality just isn't there when you compare the two, only exception is a 6.4 power stroke 🤣
I owned an IDI 1991 F-250 with the E4OD auto transmission up until just a few months ago. Not sure what happened but one of the cylinders dropped a valve or something happened major in one of the cylinders. The engine didn’t self destruct but it definitely had a major failure somewhere. Anyway, finding someone to try and rebuild the engine and repair the busted cylinder was not easy and I decided to sell it to an interested buyer because I couldn’t justify putting a brand new engine in it cost wise and a rebuild would have been pretty damn expensive too, assuming I could find a person that would do it. That aside, prior to the engine issue it was a great truck. It had 165,000 miles on it. The transmission had been rebuilt at the 136,000 mile mark which I didn’t consider bad at all since that was 85% or more pulling heavy loads and that was the 2nd redesign of the E4OD. The trans did its job ok, although I did hate the fact that once it was warmed up it would lock the torque converter lock up clutch immediately after shifting into 2nd gear. So when you were pulling a heavy load you immediately lost torque multiplication from the lock up clutch engaging. Also, the intermediate clutch would lock when shifting into 2nd and then the lock up clutch would lock at the same time or 1 second later. That made it seem like the clutches were slowly slipping into 2nd gear, when in reality the multiplate clutch for 2nd would apply quite firm, but not rough, then the lock up clutch would engage more slowly. From 2 to 3 gear it would disengage the lock up clutch and then immediately reapply it after the direct clutch came on for 3rd gear, again making it seem as if the direct clutch slipped in as well, but it was the lock up clutch once again. On occasion if you slowed down in a curve and then came out of the curve and got on the fuel hard, it would remain in 3rd and the lock up clutch would reengage just as soon as you gave it any throttle. Sometimes you would see the rpm’s shoot up briefly and then settle down where the computer was a bit slow in raising the fluid pressure back up to where it needed to be for the throttle position going back up from idle. Once you learned the quirks of it you could avoid those issues. Any time you shifted into R from any gear it would take about 1.5 - 2 seconds to feel it go into gear. Apparently that had to do with the fluid line that supplied the low/reverse brake clutch being completely drained of fluid when in any gear other than R or 1. Plus in R and 1 you had 3 clutches apply at the same time, the direct clutch (or forward clutch for 1M), coast clutch, and low/reverse clutch. I liked to downshift when I had a load as I came to a stop. I learned however that you only wanted to downshift to 2M and no further because if you dropped it down to 1M after 2, the slow apply issue just described would do two things. First, if you were downshifting from 2M, the trans would briefly go into neutral as the intermediate brake band (only used in 2Manual) would immediately release since it was controlled by a valve connected to the shift selector. That neutral state would last for 1.5-2 seconds when 1M was selected on a downshift but then, as the low/reverse clutch line finally filled with fluid and the clutch itself, the engine would slowly start ramping up to the correct 1st gear speed. The problem was though that the clutch for low/reverse that stops the planetary carrier from turning and holds it to the case, would slip into gear and the slip would last for almost 2 seconds if you were still moving at a decent speed. If you did that often your low/reverse clutch would be gone. 1st gear in normal drive used a one-way clutch to hold the planet. Anyway, didn’t mean to get off on that discussion. Back to starting. As long as the glow plugs were functioning and both batteries were in good shape, that truck would start no matter how cold it was and you didn’t have to crank it very long either. A few years ago as I was getting ready to leave for work it was in the single digits, almost zero and some snow was coming down. I had a car at the time and usually drove the truck if the roads were going to be snowy. It wasn’t supposed to snow that morning but it did anyway. Since I hadn’t planned on driving it I hadn’t plugged the block heater up. I decided to drive it at the last minute but didn’t know if it would start or not since it was so frigid, plus the truck hadn’t been started in several weeks. I turned to on and let it glow one cycle, then cycled the plugs on for a second time. After the light went out I started cranking. It did take it longer than normal since it was so cold. I cranked it for 4 or 5 seconds before I finally felt a cylinder start to fire occasionally. I held the key on for 5 seconds or so after it stared trying to fire and just as I was about to let off the starter for a bit a few more cylinders started to fire and it was able to run without the starter. It sounded like hell for 10 seconds but then smoothed out to the regular high idle speed until it had warmed up. It had been started at temps even colder than that over the years without any issue. If the glow plugs weren’t working you couldn’t start it up with a cold engine on a summer day. It could be hard to start without glow plugs with a warm engine, although it would start without if the engine was near its normal operating temp. But as long as the plugs worked it would easily start with a cold engine in winter. I worked at a place with 2 7.3 power strokes. They were great engines but starting them was almost impossible in the winter even with glow plugs working. We would have to roll the flatbed truck down the hill if someone forgot to plug the block heater in. We would roll it down and hook the block heater up just long enough to get it started. If it wasn’t too cold 20-30 mins was usually enough but if it was really cold it was usually an hour or more before it would start. Plus someone would get their ass chewed on if it didn’t get plugged up on a really cold night.
The fuel vapors are what ignite when doing the rag method. That’s why fuel injection works so good. Spraying a fine mist gives lots of surface area where the vapor can hangout vs a glob of gas meaning easy ignition.
yep, id drive the idi, prowerstroke, then fummins, sad how some vehicles hold well with there age while others the thing falls apart, wish i could find a idi someday
I got one for 4000 a month ago. 0 rust, brand new flat bed, 143k miles, and less than 10k miles on the transmission. I just wish it was a ZF5 not a E40D
@@TheDariusBlaze what year is it? Sounds like you got a great deal on that! The E4OD wasn’t a bad transmission it just had some quirks about it. I had pretty good service out of mine. It had to be rebuilt at 136,000 miles which I didn’t think was bad given that most of those miles were hauling/towing miles. I just noticed that yours was rebuilt at about the same mileage as mine. It wasn’t quite as solid as the C6 3 speed auto that came before it but could have been worse. The main things with the E4OD are to keep it from overheating (applies to all autos of course), don’t increase the engine hp throughput above factory specs unless the trans was rebuilt to handle more power, lock it out of overdrive when you are pulling a heavy load, and I would suggest installing an aftermarket shift controller on it if one wasn’t installed when it was rebuilt. Hope you are enjoying that truck!!!
At least you use the coolant additives in the idi. Most people don't and alot of people don't even know about it. And you start it properly without using ether like everyone else with an idi does.
@@idahotrucker7017 most people don’t know about it until the cylinder wall starts pissing coolant. Lol. I really wish ford would have modified the block a bit instead of taking the 6.9 L and simply boring it out with larger cylinders. If it had been built from the factory with sleeved cylinders that engine would have been indestructible and really easy to rebuild if something did go wrong.
2011 f450 og owner 6.7 here, the only problems were the DPF failing, surprise lol. and then a turbo bearing but thats it. the cp4 though yeah watch out but its not as bad as everyone makes it to be.
I have an idi and it starts even with loosing prime and not all glow plugs working. I don't think any of your glow plugs were working or maybe something else.
The IDI had a problems starting because of the plastic fuel return boots leaking air and poor pre-chamber design with the flat top piston, plus it's a naturally aspirated engine that moves a lot of air through the combustion chamber, the heat from the glow plug would not help it as much as it should have because it was blown away so quickly out the exhaust, as soon as you get a tiny little bit of heat in the cylinder from combustion they fire right up. These engines would probably start a lot better if they had a good-sized grate intake heater like a Cummins.
The idi is the best of the three. I hate seeing tests where one obviously has faulty glowplugs our 85 6.9l with 400,000miles started good down to 12f with good glowplugs and the original relay. That idi didn't have glowplugs for some reason they burnt or something. Did it start as good as our 2002 Cummins? NO, but it was decent and the Cummins tapped out at 6f compared to 12f on the idi. The rebuilt idi was better but only to 10f. But plug it up on a timer for 1jr and it would start anytime. I am going back to all idis except keeping the doge I bought with dad as a heirloom now he's gone.
I would take that 12valve over either one of those fords. You know that everything one the dodge would work if you fixed it right? My 24valve has 480k on it and goes like a champ. But me being a mechanic I take care of my stuff, not like your stuff.
12 valve is a great power plant its just the piece of shit shipping crate they put it into. Those Ferds are mint. I noticed you didn't give it all the kachup like ol peggen-leggen
I promise you that idi will be running way longer than either one of the other two I have a 1992 f350 with over 5000000 uses no oil starts right up and never been inside of
Minty bud!
dam straight
Idi didn't Start cuz throttle wasn't matted..and you didn't threaten it with Cosby sauces of the John deere variety!! Even peg would agree!👌
Peg, didnt you have a nipple truck gin pole build video? Just looking for someone to blame when I botch mine.
@@ExxonValdezXDawnDishSoap he does oys all on patreon now thanks to youtune slipping him the shaft
Those 7.3s sound amazing, glad to see Ziptiesnbiasplies watched this video as well, minty guy
I try not to sound like em but its hard when his shit is all I watch lol
Nice video bro. Throw a little money into the interior of the 12 valve. Ever since I did mine ive been addicted to driving it. I do like smashing the 7.3 around tho. She just isnt as fast.
you know its gonna be good when ur done with the power stroke and there is still 8 mins in the video.
"There's a reason it's my daily in the winter" then says "lets get to the real trucks." Fucking ford guys 😂
Id rather take the Ford's honestly I love the Cummins just as much as any other diesel but the 2nd Gen quality just isn't there when you compare the two, only exception is a 6.4 power stroke 🤣
And the interiors of the fords falling apart just as bad
I owned an IDI 1991 F-250 with the E4OD auto transmission up until just a few months ago. Not sure what happened but one of the cylinders dropped a valve or something happened major in one of the cylinders. The engine didn’t self destruct but it definitely had a major failure somewhere. Anyway, finding someone to try and rebuild the engine and repair the busted cylinder was not easy and I decided to sell it to an interested buyer because I couldn’t justify putting a brand new engine in it cost wise and a rebuild would have been pretty damn expensive too, assuming I could find a person that would do it. That aside, prior to the engine issue it was a great truck. It had 165,000 miles on it. The transmission had been rebuilt at the 136,000 mile mark which I didn’t consider bad at all since that was 85% or more pulling heavy loads and that was the 2nd redesign of the E4OD. The trans did its job ok, although I did hate the fact that once it was warmed up it would lock the torque converter lock up clutch immediately after shifting into 2nd gear. So when you were pulling a heavy load you immediately lost torque multiplication from the lock up clutch engaging. Also, the intermediate clutch would lock when shifting into 2nd and then the lock up clutch would lock at the same time or 1 second later. That made it seem like the clutches were slowly slipping into 2nd gear, when in reality the multiplate clutch for 2nd would apply quite firm, but not rough, then the lock up clutch would engage more slowly. From 2 to 3 gear it would disengage the lock up clutch and then immediately reapply it after the direct clutch came on for 3rd gear, again making it seem as if the direct clutch slipped in as well, but it was the lock up clutch once again. On occasion if you slowed down in a curve and then came out of the curve and got on the fuel hard, it would remain in 3rd and the lock up clutch would reengage just as soon as you gave it any throttle. Sometimes you would see the rpm’s shoot up briefly and then settle down where the computer was a bit slow in raising the fluid pressure back up to where it needed to be for the throttle position going back up from idle. Once you learned the quirks of it you could avoid those issues. Any time you shifted into R from any gear it would take about 1.5 - 2 seconds to feel it go into gear. Apparently that had to do with the fluid line that supplied the low/reverse brake clutch being completely drained of fluid when in any gear other than R or 1. Plus in R and 1 you had 3 clutches apply at the same time, the direct clutch (or forward clutch for 1M), coast clutch, and low/reverse clutch. I liked to downshift when I had a load as I came to a stop. I learned however that you only wanted to downshift to 2M and no further because if you dropped it down to 1M after 2, the slow apply issue just described would do two things. First, if you were downshifting from 2M, the trans would briefly go into neutral as the intermediate brake band (only used in 2Manual) would immediately release since it was controlled by a valve connected to the shift selector. That neutral state would last for 1.5-2 seconds when 1M was selected on a downshift but then, as the low/reverse clutch line finally filled with fluid and the clutch itself, the engine would slowly start ramping up to the correct 1st gear speed. The problem was though that the clutch for low/reverse that stops the planetary carrier from turning and holds it to the case, would slip into gear and the slip would last for almost 2 seconds if you were still moving at a decent speed. If you did that often your low/reverse clutch would be gone. 1st gear in normal drive used a one-way clutch to hold the planet. Anyway, didn’t mean to get off on that discussion. Back to starting. As long as the glow plugs were functioning and both batteries were in good shape, that truck would start no matter how cold it was and you didn’t have to crank it very long either. A few years ago as I was getting ready to leave for work it was in the single digits, almost zero and some snow was coming down. I had a car at the time and usually drove the truck if the roads were going to be snowy. It wasn’t supposed to snow that morning but it did anyway. Since I hadn’t planned on driving it I hadn’t plugged the block heater up. I decided to drive it at the last minute but didn’t know if it would start or not since it was so frigid, plus the truck hadn’t been started in several weeks. I turned to on and let it glow one cycle, then cycled the plugs on for a second time. After the light went out I started cranking. It did take it longer than normal since it was so cold. I cranked it for 4 or 5 seconds before I finally felt a cylinder start to fire occasionally. I held the key on for 5 seconds or so after it stared trying to fire and just as I was about to let off the starter for a bit a few more cylinders started to fire and it was able to run without the starter. It sounded like hell for 10 seconds but then smoothed out to the regular high idle speed until it had warmed up. It had been started at temps even colder than that over the years without any issue. If the glow plugs weren’t working you couldn’t start it up with a cold engine on a summer day. It could be hard to start without glow plugs with a warm engine, although it would start without if the engine was near its normal operating temp. But as long as the plugs worked it would easily start with a cold engine in winter. I worked at a place with 2 7.3 power strokes. They were great engines but starting them was almost impossible in the winter even with glow plugs working. We would have to roll the flatbed truck down the hill if someone forgot to plug the block heater in. We would roll it down and hook the block heater up just long enough to get it started. If it wasn’t too cold 20-30 mins was usually enough but if it was really cold it was usually an hour or more before it would start. Plus someone would get their ass chewed on if it didn’t get plugged up on a really cold night.
Theres no way those glow plugs are working on that idi 6 volt plugs ran on 12v and for that long
Fun fact foot to the floor for those idis helps to start it and the gas rag works.😊
The trick to those IDI engines is to give it full throttle on a cold start like this, and half throttle on cold starts in warm weather.
The fuel vapors are what ignite when doing the rag method. That’s why fuel injection works so good. Spraying a fine mist gives lots of surface area where the vapor can hangout vs a glob of gas meaning easy ignition.
The vapor my man it’s the vapor that ignites.
yep, id drive the idi, prowerstroke, then fummins, sad how some vehicles hold well with there age while others the thing falls apart, wish i could find a idi someday
I got one for 4000 a month ago. 0 rust, brand new flat bed, 143k miles, and less than 10k miles on the transmission. I just wish it was a ZF5 not a E40D
I got one for 800$ in my town light rust, 88k miles
@@TheDariusBlaze what year is it? Sounds like you got a great deal on that! The E4OD wasn’t a bad transmission it just had some quirks about it. I had pretty good service out of mine. It had to be rebuilt at 136,000 miles which I didn’t think was bad given that most of those miles were hauling/towing miles. I just noticed that yours was rebuilt at about the same mileage as mine. It wasn’t quite as solid as the C6 3 speed auto that came before it but could have been worse. The main things with the E4OD are to keep it from overheating (applies to all autos of course), don’t increase the engine hp throughput above factory specs unless the trans was rebuilt to handle more power, lock it out of overdrive when you are pulling a heavy load, and I would suggest installing an aftermarket shift controller on it if one wasn’t installed when it was rebuilt. Hope you are enjoying that truck!!!
@@tortuga5097 damn you got a steal on that!
@@jcolbyt82 I have one for sale, 102k miles 87 F250 single cab, 6.9 with a C6 auto with aftermarket overdrive kit, no rust i would take 5k
I don’t know either but back in the old days a lot of diesels were started and warmed up on gas before switching over to diesel
The reason things don’t work in the Cummins is because you didn’t fix them lol😂. That 12 valve is a goat.
At least you use the coolant additives in the idi. Most people don't and alot of people don't even know about it. And you start it properly without using ether like everyone else with an idi does.
A little shot of either doesn’t hurt anything as long as you don’t have your glow plugs on when you do it
@@idahotrucker7017 most people don’t know about it until the cylinder wall starts pissing coolant. Lol. I really wish ford would have modified the block a bit instead of taking the 6.9 L and simply boring it out with larger cylinders. If it had been built from the factory with sleeved cylinders that engine would have been indestructible and really easy to rebuild if something did go wrong.
12 valve any time anywhere.
Ford alumaduty with a Cummins would be nice. The 6.7 powerstroke is a good engine but get rid of that cp-4 asap
2011 f450 og owner 6.7 here, the only problems were the DPF failing, surprise lol. and then a turbo bearing but thats it. the cp4 though yeah watch out but its not as bad as everyone makes it to be.
Perks of 21.5:1 Gas rag does fuck all
12 valve 2nd gen any day of the week. I like all them engines but dodge with cummins is far superior to any p.o.s ford.
I have an idi and it starts even with loosing prime and not all glow plugs working. I don't think any of your glow plugs were working or maybe something else.
The IDI had a problems starting because of the plastic fuel return boots leaking air and poor pre-chamber design with the flat top piston, plus it's a naturally aspirated engine that moves a lot of air through the combustion chamber, the heat from the glow plug would not help it as much as it should have because it was blown away so quickly out the exhaust, as soon as you get a tiny little bit of heat in the cylinder from combustion they fire right up. These engines would probably start a lot better if they had a good-sized grate intake heater like a Cummins.
I was wondering when Peg might chime in. Didnt take him long
Why own the Cummins if you don't like it?
Yea he is a ungrateful little shit
That 12v sounds good 👌
Where’s Cosby’s canned consent at for the IDI?
Why does it taste like gas.......Because the Busch's are running pure brother. Great fucking video. Entertainment for the shop/engine enthusiasts.
I'd take the cummins over any of them
Give that old idi a shot of starting fluid and it will go
The idi is the best of the three. I hate seeing tests where one obviously has faulty glowplugs our 85 6.9l with 400,000miles started good down to 12f with good glowplugs and the original relay. That idi didn't have glowplugs for some reason they burnt or something. Did it start as good as our 2002 Cummins? NO, but it was decent and the Cummins tapped out at 6f compared to 12f on the idi. The rebuilt idi was better but only to 10f. But plug it up on a timer for 1jr and it would start anytime. I am going back to all idis except keeping the doge I bought with dad as a heirloom now he's gone.
The best of the 3 is by far the powerstroke not the idi
That idi has some major fuel system issues. They’re supposed to start far more easily.
Idi Needs throttle and Cosby sauce
You want some more??? Hilarious.
I would take that 12valve over either one of those fords. You know that everything one the dodge would work if you fixed it right? My 24valve has 480k on it and goes like a champ. But me being a mechanic I take care of my stuff, not like your stuff.
yah but I like trucks that work without fixing all the time
12 valve is a great power plant its just the piece of shit shipping crate they put it into. Those Ferds are mint. I noticed you didn't give it all the kachup like ol peggen-leggen
“It works great if you fix it” is not a very good tagline lol
Great engine in a crappy wrapper.
I promise you that idi will be running way longer than either one of the other two I have a 1992 f350 with over 5000000 uses no oil starts right up and never been inside of
Subscribed
Obs fords ftw
with the idi floor it
It's a Dodge dash that's decent
Holy crap my ford tractor is almost as bad as your idi thing is rough in the cold
Snow start
Be your self kid
Yes all fords should have came w cummins ultimate truck. Love powerstrokes but