I do tend to think there is a short somewhere when something shuts down. Sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious when you want the problem to be something else. Thanks for stopping by!
I really like your videos, keep it up. We have a small family console service in Hungary and I am suffering with a x box one s. Also no power and interesting because it is not like any known classic failure. There is no measurable short circuit at the power supply socket and all MOSFETs, fuses, capacitors, surrounding components are fine. Voltage regulator and coils are also OK. Thermal camera if I look at it, only the NAND chip and the 2 small IC's above it give a thermal signal with normal values as any other motherboard. Apart from these nothing else gives a heat signal. Power panel and power supply will function normally on a good motherboard. I am at a loss for advice. Can you give me a good tip?
If all your standby voltages are correct, perhaps the South Bridge. Does the South Bridge get slightly warm? I believe it should if it's working. I have not seen one yet with your exact symptoms.
@@ToltecMerc I hoped you would find it interesting. Well, I'm usually happy to see this error picture because we can find the bogey with a good measurement but I'm frozen here. No, unfortunately the southbridge isn't getting any warmer. I can honestly only think that there must be something on the power panel circuit that's causing it not to get voltage. I have concentrated on the general possibilities and it's worth a try to measure it there.
Picked one of these up cheap can’t for the life of me work out what’s wrong had a busted hdmi so swapped out changed retimer got 12v rail no 5v,1.8,3.3v etc think il try order that ic you reflowed hope it works then. Great video!
This is off topic sorry but, I am working on a Nintendo Switch and I just need clarification between a true short and low impedance caps. If there's a true short on a cap, both ends should be about the same and near 0 Ohm? Low impedance would be one side say 15 Ohm or 30 Ohm 10 Ohm etc and the other side 0 Ohm? My multimeter seems to beep somewhere up to 200 Ohm or 150, not sure. I just know a beep doesn't mean a short 100% of the time.
Okay thanks I’ve ordered one hopefully it works if not then I’m not sure where to look on the main board I’ve had a quick look around in case there was any corrosion but can’t seem to see any
Mine is too, oddly it would always run for exactly 5 secs then shut off but now it’s instant. Only difference is that the fan never attempts to spin, even when it stays on longer.
@@drrelish3001 Nope. The motherboard(or at least something on it) is dead when this happens. A bad disc drive, HDD, fan, etc won't cause this issue. If replacing the PSU doesn't work you're SOL.
I 'overthink' so many times when diagnosing. Good job on tracking it down.
I do tend to think there is a short somewhere when something shuts down. Sometimes it's easy to overlook the obvious when you want the problem to be something else. Thanks for stopping by!
Having the exact same issue with mine, just waiting on the chip to come in and we shall see!
Love your vids. So informative! keep on going
Glad you like them!
@@ToltecMerchey really like how patient you are when tracking down shorts!! Where would I be able to find the schematics for the Xbox one s!?
@@clintchrystie6727 I found them in the Facebook group Game Console Repair Legion.
@@ToltecMerc you're such a legend.👍
Two in one day! Christmas came early.
You're welcome!!
I really like your videos, keep it up. We have a small family console service in Hungary and I am suffering with a x box one s. Also no power and interesting because it is not like any known classic failure. There is no measurable short circuit at the power supply socket and all MOSFETs, fuses, capacitors, surrounding components are fine. Voltage regulator and coils are also OK. Thermal camera if I look at it, only the NAND chip and the 2 small IC's above it give a thermal signal with normal values as any other motherboard. Apart from these nothing else gives a heat signal. Power panel and power supply will function normally on a good motherboard. I am at a loss for advice. Can you give me a good tip?
No power or is it an on/off system?
@@ToltecMerc No power. No light. Nothing.
If all your standby voltages are correct, perhaps the South Bridge. Does the South Bridge get slightly warm? I believe it should if it's working. I have not seen one yet with your exact symptoms.
@@ToltecMerc I hoped you would find it interesting. Well, I'm usually happy to see this error picture because we can find the bogey with a good measurement but I'm frozen here. No, unfortunately the southbridge isn't getting any warmer. I can honestly only think that there must be something on the power panel circuit that's causing it not to get voltage. I have concentrated on the general possibilities and it's worth a try to measure it there.
@@nagyferenc6814 do you have the schematic?
Picked one of these up cheap can’t for the life of me work out what’s wrong had a busted hdmi so swapped out changed retimer got 12v rail no 5v,1.8,3.3v etc think il try order that ic you reflowed hope it works then. Great video!
Replace southbridge
Enjoyable and educational video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks ...good work keep it up🤘
Thanks, will do!
Good job mate.
Thank you very much! I appreciate the visit!
🇿🇲💪❤️❤️
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed!
Really enjoying your content. Keep it up, thank you!
Thanks, will do!
This is off topic sorry but, I am working on a Nintendo Switch and I just need clarification between a true short and low impedance caps. If there's a true short on a cap, both ends should be about the same and near 0 Ohm? Low impedance would be one side say 15 Ohm or 30 Ohm 10 Ohm etc and the other side 0 Ohm? My multimeter seems to beep somewhere up to 200 Ohm or 150, not sure. I just know a beep doesn't mean a short 100% of the time.
I would say a short is probably 1 ohm or less. There would be some low impedance lines around the CPU of probably a few ohms.
@@ToltecMerc Thank you :)
Can't deny, your a good tech and learning what you jave to offer is very appreciated!
I appreciate that! Thank you! Hopefully I can bring you more of the same!
do you have a link to the schematic you was looking at?
drive.google.com/file/d/1y12t_w9JRzzqaD2VDzmtOOMQrqOovvvf/view?usp=sharing
@@ToltecMerc thanks so much!
Hi I have the same issue with my Xbox where it lights up when turned on but then it instantly turns off could this be a PSU ?
It’s possible the supply is shutting down because it can’t supply the run current, but it’s most likely a problem on the mainboard.
Okay thanks I’ve ordered one hopefully it works if not then I’m not sure where to look on the main board I’ve had a quick look around in case there was any corrosion but can’t seem to see any
Hi the PSU didn’t work do you have any ideas where I can look into in the main board thanks
Good job, mine did the same thing, mine was the power management chip.
Good job mate 👍
Thank you very much!
How can I send in my Xbox to get fix
Well done
Thank You!
Mines doing that fast on and off
Mine is too, oddly it would always run for exactly 5 secs then shut off but now it’s instant.
Only difference is that the fan never attempts to spin, even when it stays on longer.
@@computertutorials1286please tell me you figured out a solution
@@drrelish3001 Nope. The motherboard(or at least something on it) is dead when this happens.
A bad disc drive, HDD, fan, etc won't cause this issue. If replacing the PSU doesn't work you're SOL.