Having experimented with this I find after bevelling the end of the tube, it won't fully close on the mandrel unless I movecthe reed a LOT further up the mandrel. I am intrigued to see how this reed comes out.
Interesting. Let me know. For reference, I find that on my old popkin mandrel, the sides are properly closed (after mashing with pliers and wiring it) when the reed sits around 1/2" from the base (on the forming side). There is a decent amount of reaming to be done afterwards, and that may depend on the size of your bocal opening and how you prefer your reeds to sit on the bocal.
It was given to me by Ben Kamins. This is the closest thing I could find online... patiobloom.com/products/6pc-diamond-flat-file-set-ceramics-tile-glass-1
They are called end nippers. I have a cheapo version from Sears, it cost about $8. There are some nice ones online for less than $25, just make sure that they meet flush at the tip so you can be very accurate as to where you are placing it on the reed before you clip. I like these better than a guillotine because it supports the top and bottom blade while cutting. No splitting issues.
I've been experimenting with the bevel on my reeds and the results I have been getting are the opposite of what you and every other source I have found explain. If I do a 1/4" bevel that goes deep, it gives me a more closed tip, giving me better high notes when I round the tube. If I do a shallow 1/2" bevel it gives me a more open tip, giving me better low notes when I flatten the tube. Do you have any idea what could be causing this reversal? I do the Herzberg method as taught by Kathleen Reynolds. Also I've been wondering how the fulcrum affect works on a reed, and if it's complicated because of the three wires.
That is interesting! There are so many variables at play that without investigating every step and seeing your reeds in person I'm afraid I can't tell. The profile and balance of amount of cane and tapers front to back and side to side will make a difference. As will how far onto the mandrel you push the reed while wiring the blank together. And perhaps the amount of beveling and how long you clip the blanks (but probably 28mm if you do HB already). Kathleen is a great teacher and player! I don't have any illuminating thoughts about the fulcrum effect but if the second wire is the fulcrum, and the third wire is fixed, then the first and second wires definitely control the effect of the fulcrum on the reed opening.
Just watched this AGAIN with my students and, again, it was a fantastic reminder of the power of the bevel! Thank you!
Having experimented with this I find after bevelling the end of the tube, it won't fully close on the mandrel unless I movecthe reed a LOT further up the mandrel. I am intrigued to see how this reed comes out.
Interesting. Let me know. For reference, I find that on my old popkin mandrel, the sides are properly closed (after mashing with pliers and wiring it) when the reed sits around 1/2" from the base (on the forming side). There is a decent amount of reaming to be done afterwards, and that may depend on the size of your bocal opening and how you prefer your reeds to sit on the bocal.
Where do you find the 3/8 inch width file
It was given to me by Ben Kamins. This is the closest thing I could find online...
patiobloom.com/products/6pc-diamond-flat-file-set-ceramics-tile-glass-1
What did you use to clip the tip?
They are called end nippers. I have a cheapo version from Sears, it cost about $8. There are some nice ones online for less than $25, just make sure that they meet flush at the tip so you can be very accurate as to where you are placing it on the reed before you clip. I like these better than a guillotine because it supports the top and bottom blade while cutting. No splitting issues.
I've been experimenting with the bevel on my reeds and the results I have been getting are the opposite of what you and every other source I have found explain. If I do a 1/4" bevel that goes deep, it gives me a more closed tip, giving me better high notes when I round the tube. If I do a shallow 1/2" bevel it gives me a more open tip, giving me better low notes when I flatten the tube. Do you have any idea what could be causing this reversal? I do the Herzberg method as taught by Kathleen Reynolds. Also I've been wondering how the fulcrum affect works on a reed, and if it's complicated because of the three wires.
You don't wrap the doll all the way (you don't round it all the way). She's probably flat.
That is interesting! There are so many variables at play that without investigating every step and seeing your reeds in person I'm afraid I can't tell. The profile and balance of amount of cane and tapers front to back and side to side will make a difference. As will how far onto the mandrel you push the reed while wiring the blank together. And perhaps the amount of beveling and how long you clip the blanks (but probably 28mm if you do HB already). Kathleen is a great teacher and player! I don't have any illuminating thoughts about the fulcrum effect but if the second wire is the fulcrum, and the third wire is fixed, then the first and second wires definitely control the effect of the fulcrum on the reed opening.