Crimped connections are more flexible, heat-resistant and vibration-resistant than soldered ones which have greater potential for wire fatigue and stiffening. Crimping is often more consistent than soldering, which can vary according to method or technician.
I used to think differently until I got an inexpensive crimper which gives consistent, solid and quick crimps. Solder works great on thinner gauge wires but for 14 and up, the crimper worked a lot better for me, especially in a tight engine compartment.
Very helpful video. The explanation is very clear and easy to follow. I actually will use this knowledge to instal a new bulge pump on my boat this weekend.
Very easy to understand. If I wanted to wire bilge pump with a float to a second battery with out the switch. Can I hard wire the pump to the battery with a fuse and leave it in the boat? We are expecting a lot of rain from a storm or hurricane as a backup. I am an hour from my boat. The current bilge pump is new and permanently attached to the boat.
Very good video, making it simple for me as a non-electrical type guy 😜. Your video was much more clear than many of the others, that tried to accomplish the same goal. Thank you so much. I Subscribed and Liked the video.
Hi thanks very much for your kind comments. Glad to hear that you liked the simple explanation. I will be publishing some more general wiring videos very shortly.
could u put the striped float switch wire directly to the battery with a fuse? i have a manual bilge pump with 2 wires and it’s on a on/off switch panel and i’d like to keep it that way
Thank you. Excellent presentation... a thought for Seaflo - it would be great if the lever could change colour from green to say yellow when on the Auto setting and the pump actually kicked in or perhaps another led.
Hi Jack, Thanks for your comment and question. I am afraid I can't advise you on 'what else' to connect up to, as that can be entirely different from one boat to another. All the best, Richard
Great video! I have a problem with my pump. It works when I connect black wire and brown / white. But not when I connect black and brown and then turn the pump upside down. Can I do something wrong? Or is the automation broken? Can it be fixed or do I have to buy a new one?
Hi thanks for your comment and question. It could be you have one of the electronic-based automatic types of pump. You might want to take a look at the video in the link below, which gives an explanation of how the different types work ..... th-cam.com/video/CW2CAQXhh0k/w-d-xo.html
Hi, yes technically you can wire it straight to the battery (with the fuse for protection), but from my point of view I would always fit a switch so that you quickly turn it off in the event of something unexpected happening.
Just a question. Why would you want to put your pump in manual mode if you know that you have a float switch that can kick the pump on automatically when the need for the pump arises? Is it simply in case the float switch fails or something?
Hi thanks for this good question. Yes you already answered it really - it is in case the float switch fails for any reason. There is another reason though - your float switch will only activate when there is a certain level of water sitting in the bilge, and the manual mode could allow you to pump out that last inch or 2 of water which is a 'nice to have' option.
Hi Mike, thanks for your question. Our smallest bilge pumps which can be found in the link below, have a 19mm outlet diameter and our larger ones around 35mm diameter so it can vary quite a lot. What I would say is to choose a hose with an internal diameter always a little smaller than the fitting, 19mm and 25mm internal diameter are quite common. www.boatfittings.co.uk/c/marine_electrical_fitting/bilge_pumps Kind regards, Richard
CIAO. HO COMPRATO UNA POMPA AUTOMATICA, MA NON SO COME MONTARLA. A TRE FILI ROSSO, NERO, BLU. VOGLIO USARLA SENZA INTERRUTTORE, COME LA DEVO COLLEGARE??? GRAZIE
I got a 800 gph automatic bilge for a v bottom I have I have an on off on toggle switch I wanting to use would that work with the bilge I have? I've noticed it only comes on if I have both positive lead touching the battery but it wouldn't come on with the single lead. Could there be an issue with it?
Hi it sounds like your pump is behaving a bit strangely. Normally with an automatic bilge pump one of the positives will be for automatic operation and one will be for manual operation. You might like to look at video on the different types of automatic bilge pump to see if that clarifies the behaviour - the link here should take you to it ...th-cam.com/video/CW2CAQXhh0k/w-d-xo.html All the best, Richard
Hi there. Thanks, sadly neither of my 750gph ebay impeller (like your Seaflo?) pumps actually pump. The motor spins but they pump nothing and I'd like your opinion on impeller type vs anything else. Cheers!!
Hi Eric, thanks for your comment - the first thing that comes to mind is are they wired correctly, if the positive and negative are swapped around these will spin but not pump water. Richard
@@BoatFittings Thanks, they were wired ok but the transformer I had was underpowered. It turns out you need 4 times the operating wattage to start them...12v x 3amps = 36watts x 4 = happiness!!!!! The transformer I had was only 3 times the wattage = sadness....
Hey guys I have the same automatic bilge pump for some reason mine is not working on the Auto I have a hooked up directly to the 12 Am I missing something or is the product is defective
Hi thanks for your message and sorry for the delay in replying. Sorry but I don't think I could make a proper assessment without having the pump here, but if you pump has three wires (probably one black for negative, and two brown wires) then if the pump is working properly, keeping the black wire on negative, and trying the brown wires on the 12V positive then one of them should turn on the pump even if there is no water.
i would wire the solid brown wire directly to your battery so that it will turn on automatically without a switch and then use the brown stripe to wire to the switch as well as the ground connection.
Thanks for the video. At the moment I use a bilge pump connected directly to a 12v battery, which works fine. But I want to power the pump with 230v to 12v power supply. I’ve tried a few I had lying around but none seem to work. Presumably they weren’t powerful enough to power the motor. can you suggest a suitable power supply i could use? The bilge pump is 1500gph I think.
Hi thanks for your message, and sorry for the late reply. This issue comes up at lot. It is a little difficult to find a suitable 230V power supply with enough current capacity to power the higher flow-rate pumps. We are hoping to have some suitable power supplies on sale quite soon, but would be very interested to know if you have manged to find a suitable supply already? Kind regards, Richard
i just bought automatic bildge pump.i did the same way you connect the wire but the automatic didnt funtion.i come here tot i connect the wire wrong way.thats mean the automatic function is faulty i guess.btw thanks
Hi thanks for your comment. It is difficult for me to make comment on your particular pump and wiring without seeing for myself. I do hope you found a good solution.
Hi thanks for your question. I would recommend getting help from your local specialist electrical trade shop for a suitable power supply, one important thing is to let them know the required peak current rating, which depends on the model of pump. Kind regards, Richard
![ฮักเทื่อสุดท้าย - บอย ศิริชัย [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-1PoPoQ-B-k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks so much for this. I have the newer Seaflow switch and the instructions were making my head hurt.
Crimped connections are more flexible, heat-resistant and vibration-resistant than soldered ones which have greater potential for wire fatigue and stiffening. Crimping is often more consistent than soldering, which can vary according to method or technician.
I used to think differently until I got an inexpensive crimper which gives consistent, solid and quick crimps. Solder works great on thinner gauge wires but for 14 and up, the crimper worked a lot better for me, especially in a tight engine compartment.
Excellent, easy to understand wiring explanation of 2 and 3 wire pumps.
Hi thanks so much for your kind comment.
Kind regards,
Richard
This was very handy! I’ve just got a warrior and finding my way with all this’ I’ll mention you in the update video
Hi many thanks for your kind comment. Good luck with the warrior - hope you have a great season!
Very helpful video. The explanation is very clear and easy to follow. I actually will use this knowledge to instal a new bulge pump on my boat this weekend.
Glad it was helpful! :)
THANK YOU SIR FOR A SIMPLE EXPLANATION
Hi many thanks for your kind comment.
Kind regards,
Richard
Very easy to understand. If I wanted to wire bilge pump with a float to a second battery with out the switch. Can I hard wire the pump to the battery with a fuse and leave it in the boat? We are expecting a lot of rain from a storm or hurricane as a backup. I am an hour from my boat. The current bilge pump is new and permanently attached to the boat.
Very good video, making it simple for me as a non-electrical type guy 😜. Your video was much more clear than many of the others, that tried to accomplish the same goal. Thank you so much. I Subscribed and Liked the video.
Hi thanks very much for your kind comments. Glad to hear that you liked the simple explanation. I will be publishing some more general wiring videos very shortly.
Very helpful 👍Thank you
Thank-you, very thoroughly and easy to follow tutorial.
Hi thanks for your kind comment, glad to found the tutorial useful :)
Sweat and simple, great thanks
Hi, many thanks for your kind comment
could u put the striped float switch wire directly to the battery with a fuse? i have a manual bilge pump with 2 wires and it’s on a on/off switch panel and i’d like to keep it that way
Thank you. Excellent presentation... a thought for Seaflo - it would be great if the lever could change colour from green to say yellow when on the Auto setting and the pump actually kicked in or perhaps another led.
Hi thanks for your comment - the switch does change colour from auto to manual, but I think you are suggesting a further enhancement, interesting!
@@BoatFittings cheers, yep something to indicate when it was actually running.
Thanks for this video - very helpfull !! Cheers
Hi thanks for your kind comment - glad to found it helpful :)
Thanks
No problem
Nicely done. Very informative.
Thank you!
Thank you for the great video, hello from NZ
Hi thanks so much for you kind comment.
Kind regards,
Richard
What was the all white wire for?
Excellent
Hi, very good video. If I didn't want to wire this straight to my battery what would I connect it to?
Thanks
Hi Jack,
Thanks for your comment and question. I am afraid I can't advise you on 'what else' to connect up to, as that can be entirely different from one boat to another.
All the best,
Richard
Thank you sir
So nice of you
Great video! I have a problem with my pump. It works when I connect black wire and brown / white. But not when I connect black and brown and then turn the pump upside down.
Can I do something wrong? Or is the automation broken? Can it be fixed or do I have to buy a new one?
Hi thanks for your comment and question. It could be you have one of the electronic-based automatic types of pump. You might want to take a look at the video in the link below, which gives an explanation of how the different types work .....
th-cam.com/video/CW2CAQXhh0k/w-d-xo.html
Merci
Hi, can I simply wire an auto bilge pump directly to my 12v battery with an inline fuse without a switch? I want it on auto all the time.
You can but in a boat you want redundancy. Hypothetically, if the float fails, you want to be able to control the pump manually.
Hi, yes technically you can wire it straight to the battery (with the fuse for protection), but from my point of view I would always fit a switch so that you quickly turn it off in the event of something unexpected happening.
Just a question. Why would you want to put your pump in manual mode if you know that you have a float switch that can kick the pump on automatically when the need for the pump arises? Is it simply in case the float switch fails or something?
Hi thanks for this good question. Yes you already answered it really - it is in case the float switch fails for any reason. There is another reason though - your float switch will only activate when there is a certain level of water sitting in the bilge, and the manual mode could allow you to pump out that last inch or 2 of water which is a 'nice to have' option.
What size hose do you need for most bilge pump?
Hi Mike, thanks for your question. Our smallest bilge pumps which can be found in the link below, have a 19mm outlet diameter and our larger ones around 35mm diameter so it can vary quite a lot. What I would say is to choose a hose with an internal diameter always a little smaller than the fitting, 19mm and 25mm internal diameter are quite common.
www.boatfittings.co.uk/c/marine_electrical_fitting/bilge_pumps
Kind regards,
Richard
CIAO. HO COMPRATO UNA POMPA AUTOMATICA, MA NON SO COME MONTARLA. A TRE FILI ROSSO, NERO, BLU. VOGLIO USARLA SENZA INTERRUTTORE, COME LA DEVO COLLEGARE??? GRAZIE
I got a 800 gph automatic bilge for a v bottom I have I have an on off on toggle switch I wanting to use would that work with the bilge I have? I've noticed it only comes on if I have both positive lead touching the battery but it wouldn't come on with the single lead. Could there be an issue with it?
Hi it sounds like your pump is behaving a bit strangely. Normally with an automatic bilge pump one of the positives will be for automatic operation and one will be for manual operation. You might like to look at video on the different types of automatic bilge pump to see if that clarifies the behaviour - the link here should take you to it ...th-cam.com/video/CW2CAQXhh0k/w-d-xo.html
All the best,
Richard
Hi there. Thanks, sadly neither of my 750gph ebay impeller (like your Seaflo?) pumps actually pump.
The motor spins but they pump nothing and I'd like your opinion on impeller type vs anything else.
Cheers!!
Hi Eric, thanks for your comment - the first thing that comes to mind is are they wired correctly, if the positive and negative are swapped around these will spin but not pump water.
Richard
@@BoatFittings Thanks, they were wired ok but the transformer I had was underpowered. It turns out you need 4 times the operating wattage to start them...12v x 3amps = 36watts x 4 = happiness!!!!! The transformer I had was only 3 times the wattage = sadness....
Hey guys I have the same automatic bilge pump for some reason mine is not working on the Auto I have a hooked up directly to the 12 Am I missing something or is the product is defective
Hi thanks for your message and sorry for the delay in replying. Sorry but I don't think I could make a proper assessment without having the pump here, but if you pump has three wires (probably one black for negative, and two brown wires) then if the pump is working properly, keeping the black wire on negative, and trying the brown wires on the 12V positive then one of them should turn on the pump even if there is no water.
Hi what gauge wire did you use my pump switch float switch and pump draw 15amps i was wondering what fuse do i use. My switch is a seaflo sfdp1-015
Hi - thanks for your question. I answered this, with your other more detailed question. Hope that works for you.
All the best,
Richard
Nice job goes s little fast could take a little more time explaining wire colour and use
Hi Tim, many thanks for the comments - duly noted.
I do not need the auto function, can I cap the solid brown wire and just leave it disconnected and only use the black and brown stripe wire?
Hi Barry - thanks for your question / comment. Yes it is fine to use only the manual function and to cap the other wire, unused.
Richard
i would wire the solid brown wire directly to your battery so that it will turn on automatically without a switch and then use the brown stripe to wire to the switch as well as the ground connection.
Thanks for the video. At the moment I use a bilge pump connected directly to a 12v battery, which works fine. But I want to power the pump with 230v to 12v power supply. I’ve tried a few I had lying around but none seem to work. Presumably they weren’t powerful enough to power the motor. can you suggest a suitable power supply i could use? The bilge pump is 1500gph I think.
Hi thanks for your message, and sorry for the late reply. This issue comes up at lot. It is a little difficult to find a suitable 230V power supply with enough current capacity to power the higher flow-rate pumps. We are hoping to have some suitable power supplies on sale quite soon, but would be very interested to know if you have manged to find a suitable supply already?
Kind regards,
Richard
Do you have another pump set up above this one with an alarm?
Hi thanks for your question - no we don't at the moment but will look at making a video for that setup later.
i just bought automatic bildge pump.i did the same way you connect the wire but the automatic didnt funtion.i come here tot i connect the wire wrong way.thats mean the automatic function is faulty i guess.btw thanks
Hi thanks for your comment. It is difficult for me to make comment on your particular pump and wiring without seeing for myself. I do hope you found a good solution.
Where can I get electronic power supply?
Hi thanks for your question. I would recommend getting help from your local specialist electrical trade shop for a suitable power supply, one important thing is to let them know the required peak current rating, which depends on the model of pump.
Kind regards,
Richard
👏👏👏⛵️
If the pump works automatically why would you want a manual override ???
In case the float stops working