I'm still trying to decide whether to go for ethernet so I'm re watching these to help me decide but I've noticed a couple of things. Why would you need to slave the B with the Z when they are wired together & the controller sees them as one anyway? The other is unrelated to the ethernet, how were you planning to use the 3 digit panel display to read the 24000 rpm of the spindle? I can't remember if you ever did use it but would have been easier to un clip the real display from the VFD & make/buy an extension lead to add that to your front panel. Also, why wouldn't you use soft limits? That's a weird thing not to use if available. No drawbacks I can think of but could stop a crash, unless never referring all home means a machine has no clue where it is so soft limits would kick in? Edit of my edit, you didn't slave B with Z
The AXBB-E has been flawless in all the years I have been running this machine. Highly recommended. Parallel port had random e-stops despite trying to manage the wiring, earth, shields etc. It was a long time ago but I think I ran 2 steppers off a single step pin for the dual stepper motor axes. I did check with AXBB-E that it was OK to source this much current and effectively run 2 opto-isolators and they confirmed it was within spec. This has worked without issue for years. I never got around to putting the spindle rpm in the display unit, and did think about remoting the VFD display but in the end I just open the door and look at the VFD when changing speed! I've never used soft limits, no reason really just got the machine working on the limit sensors and left it. No issue with using them though.
Also, thanks for your comment in the last video. TH-cam showed me the notification but would not let me reply. So yes I have looked at the stand alone controllers but at the moment I prefer the PC based systems. Thanks.
Absolutely. I’ve been using it for a while now and have had no issues with false estops. I’ve been able to plug my VFD back into the row of sockets used by the PC and controller. Before I had a 10m extension cable to the other side of the workshop. I also much prefer the software over Mach3. It has more features and feels more complete. Recommended.
Great video, I've learned more from you video than I did reading the instruction manual. Panel looks great as well, looking to build more along the lines of yours rather than a board against the wall. Just wondering if you could share your panel wiring diagram?
Hi Steve No problem. The easiest way is for me to upload it as an attachment on the mycncuk forum. Not sure if you need to be a member to download it. I’ll try to upload the ProfiCAD file along with images in case you can’t read that format. Of course it was designed around what I need and there are high voltages in there so seek advice if not sure. Away from PC so hope to do it this weekend. I’ll reply here again when I’ve sorted it. Thanks
I checked back on the forum and I remembered I had uploaded the images of the wiring a while back. Try this link, post #73 www.mycncuk.com/threads/7699-metalworking-pillar-drill-experiences?p=128570 If the link does not work then google search "mycncuk routercnc pillar drill experiences", open the forum and go to post #73 Good luck with your build.
could you not have disconnected the z axis motor and wound the ball screw back manually? awesome video though, not many people go through the software like that which is nice to see the difference between them
Not easily because they are twin ballscrews on separate motors. When I first built the machine I powered up the steppers with the couplings loose which allowed the motors to jump to their preferred start position. From then on they would be in sync. If I moved them manually with the power off they would be out of sync and I would have to repeat the process.
![⭐️( ลอยกระทง 2024 ) Ver. แดนซ์ Remix BY [ ดีเจกิต รีมิกซ์ ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rMWOLhgXUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm still trying to decide whether to go for ethernet so I'm re watching these to help me decide but I've noticed a couple of things. Why would you need to slave the B with the Z when they are wired together & the controller sees them as one anyway? The other is unrelated to the ethernet, how were you planning to use the 3 digit panel display to read the 24000 rpm of the spindle? I can't remember if you ever did use it but would have been easier to un clip the real display from the VFD & make/buy an extension lead to add that to your front panel.
Also, why wouldn't you use soft limits? That's a weird thing not to use if available. No drawbacks I can think of but could stop a crash, unless never referring all home means a machine has no clue where it is so soft limits would kick in?
Edit of my edit, you didn't slave B with Z
The AXBB-E has been flawless in all the years I have been running this machine. Highly recommended. Parallel port had random e-stops despite trying to manage the wiring, earth, shields etc.
It was a long time ago but I think I ran 2 steppers off a single step pin for the dual stepper motor axes. I did check with AXBB-E that it was OK to source this much current and effectively run 2 opto-isolators and they confirmed it was within spec. This has worked without issue for years.
I never got around to putting the spindle rpm in the display unit, and did think about remoting the VFD display but in the end I just open the door and look at the VFD when changing speed!
I've never used soft limits, no reason really just got the machine working on the limit sensors and left it. No issue with using them though.
merci ! nice cnc ! a question : axbbe is a good card ?
Very good. I’ve had no issues with it at all. Just check it has enough inputs and outputs for your project.
very good job routercnc
Thank you !
Also, thanks for your comment in the last video. TH-cam showed me the notification but would not let me reply. So yes I have looked at the stand alone controllers but at the moment I prefer the PC based systems. Thanks.
Thank you for the upload 👍👍
You are welcome. A bit more progress.
Thanks for the video. Are you still happy with the software and controller?
Absolutely. I’ve been using it for a while now and have had no issues with false estops. I’ve been able to plug my VFD back into the row of sockets used by the PC and controller. Before I had a 10m extension cable to the other side of the workshop. I also much prefer the software over Mach3. It has more features and feels more complete. Recommended.
Great video, I've learned more from you video than I did reading the instruction manual.
Panel looks great as well, looking to build more along the lines of yours rather than a board against the wall.
Just wondering if you could share your panel wiring diagram?
Hi Steve
No problem. The easiest way is for me to upload it as an attachment on the mycncuk forum. Not sure if you need to be a member to download it. I’ll try to upload the ProfiCAD file along with images in case you can’t read that format. Of course it was designed around what I need and there are high voltages in there so seek advice if not sure. Away from PC so hope to do it this weekend. I’ll reply here again when I’ve sorted it. Thanks
I checked back on the forum and I remembered I had uploaded the images of the wiring a while back.
Try this link, post #73
www.mycncuk.com/threads/7699-metalworking-pillar-drill-experiences?p=128570
If the link does not work then google search "mycncuk routercnc pillar drill experiences", open the forum and go to post #73
Good luck with your build.
Can you do a one year review of axbb. What issues did you had? What are its limitations
To be honest it has not missed a beat. Not much of a video - it just works!
could you not have disconnected the z axis motor and wound the ball screw back manually? awesome video though, not many people go through the software like that which is nice to see the difference between them
Not easily because they are twin ballscrews on separate motors. When I first built the machine I powered up the steppers with the couplings loose which allowed the motors to jump to their preferred start position. From then on they would be in sync. If I moved them manually with the power off they would be out of sync and I would have to repeat the process.
My AXBB-E 24V green led light is off, did you now any solution. Thanks
Use a multimeter to check you are getting 24V to the unit. After that I don’t know what to suggest.
Thinking about it a bit more you can try emailing them. I've had very quick replies to my technical questions from Balazs.