Can you put a link to a Compression Water Shut Off Valve that works with your RIDGID One Stop Wrench Kit? I'm going to change out my slightly dripping washing machine water shutoff valves after a new washing machine installation. They weren't leaking before the new washer install and apparently this is commonplace.
What a great video! I like to do stuff around my house myself, and the $300 upwards they wanted to charge me for what seemed to be a 10 min job seemed steep. Thanks to this video, I did it myself. Worked like a charm for a fraction of the price
Very helpful video. Probably the best "how to do" DIY I've ever seen, and I have seen ALOT. Presentation and clarity were at the right speed, Camera recording was easy to view. It was well made. Thanks.
I knew there had to be a way to do that without a torch. you and all the guys making DIY videos are doing God's work. about 90% of the things I've been able to fix around the house I would have never attempted without being shown how to do it. it's also nice to say something besides, "I'm not really sure" when a sales guy at the hardware store asks if I need help with anything.
Thank you for your efforts in teaching. I work for a church, I’m not a plumber but I am handy. You are helping much more of a higher level then you think. God bless.
Hi Jeff. This was a good video for me. My situation is going to be a bit more complicated. I have a box inside the wall where the water valves and drain are located. The leak is from the copper fitting at the bottom of the box which the hose bib screws into. The solder connection broke loose when I tightened the new hose bib onto it. I will probably have to cut the wall to get at the solder joint. Since I don't have a torch, I'll have to cut the court pipe as you showed and then see if they make a 1/2" compression fitting on one end and a 1/2" female thread on the other end.
I like you Jeff as a pro plumber. You are awesome. All your works are meticulously done. You are a clean plumber. I've learnt a lot from you. Thumbs Up!
Are compression fittings okay to use? I am in NJ. I tried using shark bite shut off valve but it spins around and since the basement is brick walls, hard to attach the shark bite shut off valve to the brick.
Yes compression valves are what I use exclusively now they hold much better and nice and tight compared to the shark bites. I only use sharp bites for a temporary basis.
Thank you for the video. Question; I was replacing a washing machine and turned the water handles to off position, but one of them (cold) in the off position, still has water coming out; not a lot, but enough that forced me to turn the main water off to replace the machines. Any idea if I have to replace the entire faucet assembly or can I take it a part and replace the o-rings maybe? Thank you!
i prefer ball valves, Home Depot did not have any that I could use. The valves I would have liked to use there were the red and blue handle 1/4 turn ball valves, but they were 4" long types that are really meant to be installed in the washing machine outlet boxes that goes in the wall. I might use them anyway the next time we do a washer valve change out.
Takes about 30 seconds for the solder to melt enough to remove the valve. IF it does not reflow and melt, then you have too much water in the pipe, there can't be any water dripping out of the pipe.
If you have enough pipe, you can just cut off the valve. In this video I saw how little pipe was commin out of the wall, and decided to sweat it off, then it's easier to slice off the end of the pipe if you need to.
Yes it works for both valves, sometimes watching a second time you absorb more of the details. Often times I find myself rewinding parts of someone's video 4 or 5 times.
It really depends on the age of the house somehow this might have the red and blue pecks pipes com up and somehow this may have been built with a polybeautiful ingredients that are now illegal since 1995 but we're big in the 1970s and 1980s. And then in the fortiesThey used to use galvanized steel or cast iron pipes
@@jeffostroff thanks for the quick reply, regarding the compression nut you placed after you reamed the copper tube, what size is that and is it standard, and does that "gold "insert come with the compression nut?
I notice you didn't flare the tubing stub after installing the new nut and compression fitting. I can see where flaring would complicate a future valve replacement, but otherwise it seems like added insurance against the valve popping off the pipe. Your thoughts? Thank you!
Way to go Jeff thank you great video once again! I see the compression fitting is easier fix than trying to solder back on & burning house down. What's your take on the Shark bite type of repairs. I used it replacing our Moen shower valve assemble didn't want to risk a fire!
I use Shark Bites on occasion but I will only use them outside the wall, just in case there is a leak some day. In our neighborhood we have the gray polybutylene pipes which are illegal now. When we change out a water shutoff valve under our sinks, we have to use a shark Bite connector to convert from poly pipe to copper pipe, then we install the standard compression valve on tot he copper pipe. I would only use a shark bite inside the wall if there was an access panel on the other side where I could check for leaks from time to time. Other than that I use shark Bites to temporarily cap off pipes, or to help make emergency repairs until we can get to the store and buy the right parts.
My preference is to replace these types of valves normally with the 90 degree ball valves which they sell their at Home Depot and Lowe's. The reason is because I normally dislike this type of gait valve.
I decided to use it because sometimes I could not get the nut tightened enough to make the compression of the ferule seal up the joint. So I started using the silicone grease to help lubricate the threads to that it becomes easier to tighten. Also, the silicone grease does offer some sealing properties, but should not be the main seal. The ferule should compress down enough to make your seal, the silicone grease is just a cheap insurance policy.
@@jeffostroff Technically compression fittings were designed to use only on soft copper yet over the years people started using it on hard copper. With a little practice a torch is easy to use, just be easy with the flame and use the tip of the flame in tight places.
Maybe I missed it in the video, but why do you cut one and the other you use the torch to get it off? Could you not just cut both? Thanks for your time.
Torching! Boys will be Boys! Apart from doing a nice renovation, is there any reason against just replacing the tap (shut off valve) "gasket" ? or, should we always replace the lot by every 5 years? I detected a little water when turning the tap handle off (regular practice after each wash) so changed the hose as it wasn't replaced with the hot one +12 mths ago, by a serviceman. I havent replaced the washer (gasket) yet as only had one shifter spanner. There doesn't seem to be any leak now. Does this sound all good for now? BTW congrats on this video, nothing else came close!
I only change the shut off valves on a flip property if they look really bad, or if they leak. When selling your property, nothing beats new shiny valves. IT gives the home inspector nothing to complain about.
I have a question. My washing machine is right beside my basement door. I don't have a hose bib outside of the home. We want a garden and need to be able to water it. I'm wondering, if it is possible to use the cold water from my machine to a garden hose for outside? I am imaging that I could get the right fitting that would work as the machine looks smaller than an average garden hose. Or....should I just call a plumber and get him to put me in an outdoor bib? Thanks in advance
I will only use Shark Bite fittings on the outside of the drywall, never behind the drywall. I prefer soldered connections any chance I can, and prefer to use Shark Bites in an emergency, or a temporary fix to give the owner running water while we engineer up a fix or order parts. I also use Shark Bite end caps quite a bit if I have to cap off a pipe to provide running water while we run to the store, or to leave it like that during a project until the plumbing rough in is ready to be finalized with water shut off valves, etc..
No professional plumber should be using Shark Bite except in the limited instances that Jeff mentions. That's because they have the soldering skills, and soldered copper has stood the test of time, where Shark Bite is still somewhat unknown for longevity. If I paid a plumber who used Shark Bite, I'd feel ripped off. That said, for the self reliant DIY person who isn't interested in learning copper soldering, like me, Shark Bite is a liberating thing. Now no plumbing emergency is out of my reach, and I've fixed half a dozen leaks in the copper piping of my 60 year old house with Shark Bite. Just because a pro shouldn't use Shark Bite doesn't mean you shouldn't.
One thing i always do after installing water valves or angle stops is i clean off the valve with a napkin. Then i take another clean napkin and set it under the valve. If theres any leaks it will drip onto the clean napkin
Still had quite a bit of dripping from the right pipe even after the main water valve was closed. Is it possible the main valve needs to be repaired as well?
Yes we see this all of the time especially with those multi turn gate valve shut offs. I encountered this about 75% of the time when I have to cut somebody's water off to do something. I always tell him they need to bring someone into replace that shut off with a quarter turn ball valve they are much more reliable.
Replacing the valve seems like a LOT more labor than simply replacing the gasket, assuming the nuts on the valve aren't stuck. (Plus the purchase of the tools if one doesn't already own them.) In my case, in a condo built during the 1970s, the cold water valve doesn't drip like the one in the video, but closing the valve all the way fails to shut off the water. (So I won't be able to disconnect the clothes washer from the other end of the water supply hose without causing a flood.)
when selling a house, or even not, it's a good time to replace a 40 year old valve, and make everything look nice and fancy and new for the buyer's inspectors, and we all love 1/4 turn ball valves.
@@jeffostroff : In my case, a condo in an 8-story building, the water supply to 16 condos' kitchens will need to be shut off during the repair or replacement of my clothes washer's water supply shutoff valve. Minimizing the time during which 16 kitchens will be crippled is another factor to consider, and putting in a new gasket would take much less time than replacing the valve (assuming the valve's nuts aren't stuck). The difference in time for a wannabe DIYer who hasn't done plumbing pipe work before probably rules out replacing the valve myself, unless the old valve can simply be unscrewed from the pipe and a new valve screwed on.
I was thinking the same thing. I was looking for a demonstration of how to replace a washer in a shut off valve that looked like mine before I took it apart.
I have a question on replacing the water supply lines. The lines are 12 years old, showing no signs of leaks. Should I replace them as preventititive maintenance? Also, since, they've been connected to the valve for 12 years, should I lubricate the connection area a day or two before trying to remove the water supply line? Thanks
We could have fixed this in 10 seconds, but decided to go the replacement route. Unfortunately Home Depot did not have 1/4 turn washing machine valves in stock so we reluctantly went with these new multi turns. The only 1/4 turn ball valve HD had was those real long one that mount inside the large white outlet boxes in the wall. Too long to have sticking straight out of the wall.
my problem (is not leaking) i cannot find an answe,r is the faucet for cold water is barely putting out cold water, the faucet just turn a tiny bit and that is it, How can i fix that faucet to open more to put a bit more water in my washer machine?
sometimes if there's not enough pipe coming through the wall you can pull that pipe out I have and put a vise grip on it hold it out but a lot of times there's a little play in these pipes
We have run into this before so is the ground clamp for the entire house? Or just one appliance? So either way you can remove the clamp temporarily if it's in the way and put it back when you are done and just make sure everybody in the house is warned that there is no ground protection during this operation . If the pipe looks corroded at all this is always a good time to take a little Emery cloth sandpaper and brush it up nice and clean copper and then reattach the clamp over the spot that you sanded
@@jeffostroff It's possible in some conditions (including those where your adjacent neighbor has a hazardous wiring condition) that there are both voltage and current flow present between the "ground" conductor and the copper pipe. These grounds and bonds are not just to protect electronics; opening them could pose a hazard to the person performing the repair. Extreme caution should be exercised, and at minimum, open the main disconnect to the house before disconnecting. This will reduce the risk but not completely eliminate the exposure. In the off chance the neighbor has an open neutral at the incoming service, your ground connection may be providing the alternate path for the neighbor's neutral current flow.
Joe, you know it, they were butt ugly, I was disappointed in Home Depot, this was the only compression washing machine shut off valve they had, and not only does it look old fashioned, it's a multi-turn, not a 1/4 turn like I prefer. I usually like to get the red and blue plastic handle shutoffs, but the valves they had in stock were those 4" long sweat on types that are meant to be used in those newer white plastic washing machine water outlet boxes that go in the wall. I could have gone to a plumbing supply house to get the perfect designed 1/4 turn angle stops., but I wanted to keep everything as though the DIY homeowner would be doing it.
You could have simply tightened the packing nut to stop the leak. This was not just a $10 fix, the two valves, escutcheons and tools made this a costly repair over what was actually needed. You can repack the graphite seal cheaper and quicker with the same or better end results. All you need is a wrench and the packing material.
Should have opened the spigot at the main shut-off outside and you wouldn’t have had so much endless water dripping from the washer spigot that you were changing. The outside water spigot is lower than the inside and the water would have poured out there and by the time you got back in the house/garage and opened those spigots nothing would have came out. Also, it was you that caused hot water pipe to have all that movement in it, you can clearly see that when you were tighten the new valve on you broke the tack nail that was holding the pipe still.
You are wrong about the the water pipe, it was already loose because the builder never had any type of appropriate pipe bracket to secure that pipe inside the wall. In fact, look at 13:25 in the video, before I even install the parts onto the pipe you can see it is loose. This was not caused by me tightening the new valve on, it was like that before I ever started. We solved this at 17:30 in the video like we do 100% of the time this happens by squirting PL adhesive into the opening around the pipe and drywall, dries hard as a rock. Works like a charm.
Yes we do normally use the quarter turn ball valve I can't remember what happened to that day or why we ended up using these it could have been a store that we went to was out of them
I use metal aviation snips from Wiss, sold at Home Depot, sometimes an old pair of wire cutters that you don't care too much about can be used to start the cut into the flange, then tear it apart with pliers.
These valves were old ad needed to go, the house was being sold. Much better to leave brand new valves that some idiot inspector can't come in and abuse them while he opens and closes them to cause a leak.
@@tomfinn6579 It's good to have comments especially different opinions on how to do things so that people can see all of the different ideas that are out therr
Why do the washing machine hoses have round fittings, while all other plumbing supply hoses have square or hex? If you have corrosion, it's almost impossible to loosen without damaging the connection.
That's why you are supposed to use steel belted hoses and replace every 5 years so you don't have this problem. Many of the newer hoses come with hex hose ends that will fit a wrench
@@jeffostroff appreciate the response. But why were they ever round to begin with? Much harder to turn, and if you use a pipe wrench you crush the fitting. If you use only your hands it may not be tight enough.
What you are proposing only works if the internal washer is the issue, but what if it is not, also many of these gate valves use packing rope inside, not a washer so that's why tightening the bonnet not on the outside a lot of times will solve the problem period but in this case we wanted to remove these old gate valves cause because when they are this old and original they're bound to break any day in with the luck of the sellers, it would happen during a time that the buyer's inspector comes to exercise the faucets to see if they are working period I always in this situation because it's a piece of cake will replace the old gate valves with much more modern and improved quarter turn ball valves period of course in this case we replaced it with whatever was given to us.
It is a compression fitting that compresses against the ferrule ring. The more you tighten the front and back parts of the valve togethers, the more it compression tightens around the ferrule ring.
don't understand when doing this work - You don't use a ball valve. The valve you used has a rubber gasket that eventually fails. I would never use this type if valve anymore - I consider them obsolete and trouble in the near future.
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Can you put a link to a Compression Water Shut Off Valve that works with your RIDGID One Stop Wrench Kit? I'm going to change out my slightly dripping washing machine water shutoff valves after a new washing machine installation. They weren't leaking before the new washer install and apparently this is commonplace.
What a great video! I like to do stuff around my house myself, and the $300 upwards they wanted to charge me for what seemed to be a 10 min job seemed steep.
Thanks to this video, I did it myself. Worked like a charm for a fraction of the price
Very helpful video. Probably the best "how to do" DIY I've ever seen, and I have seen ALOT. Presentation and clarity were at the right speed, Camera recording was easy to view. It was well made. Thanks.
Thank you so much Sherri I am glad you liked it
Getting out of trouble with my wife...thanks for the great video!
Glad to help Sean!
Jeff that was a fantastic video. very clear and precise , explained very well. Thanks, from Toronto, Canada.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I knew there had to be a way to do that without a torch. you and all the guys making DIY videos are doing God's work. about 90% of the things I've been able to fix around the house I would have never attempted without being shown how to do it. it's also nice to say something besides, "I'm not really sure" when a sales guy at the hardware store asks if I need help with anything.
Thanks for the great video. I replaced the water valves for the first time. All went well thanks to your great step by step instructions
Great job!
Thanks Jeff, it may be 3 years old, I Found it to be the best Explained and Shown Video on this Subject, Thanks, Subscribed !!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks Jeff! I'm headed to BLowe's tomorrow morning to get supplies. My laundry room is quite damp right now.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Thank you for your efforts in teaching. I work for a church, I’m not a plumber but I am handy. You are helping much more of a higher level then you think. God bless.
Awesome! Glad to help!
You had me at the Austin Powers joke! 😅 I appreciate humor with stressful things! Thank you!
You are so welcome!
Hi Jeff. This was a good video for me. My situation is going to be a bit more complicated. I have a box inside the wall where the water valves and drain are located. The leak is from the copper fitting at the bottom of the box which the hose bib screws into. The solder connection broke loose when I tightened the new hose bib onto it. I will probably have to cut the wall to get at the solder joint. Since I don't have a torch, I'll have to cut the court pipe as you showed and then see if they make a 1/2" compression fitting on one end and a 1/2" female thread on the other end.
I like you Jeff as a pro plumber. You are awesome. All your works are meticulously done. You are a clean plumber. I've learnt a lot from you. Thumbs Up!
Glad to help out!
Great lesson!!
Thank you so much for this helpful video!
I love this great video it was very informative step by step and helped me do my repair with confidence thankyou
Nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice video, lot of detail in this and important tips for perfectionists. Really appreciate it
Glad to help Anoop
Thank you so much this helped a lot !!!! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Great video with detailed instructions.
Glad it was helpful!
Very good job
Thank you! Cheers!
Subscribed!! Man you are a great teacher thank you for sharing this knowledge! God bless
Welcome aboard Stevie, glad to help!
jeffostroff 😊👍
Awesome vid man. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
I LOVE YOUR THOROUGHNESS and your well taken Piks
Thanks, glad to hea rit, because I did work pretty hard and take a long time to get these shots right, nice to hear it paid off.
Very impressed
Thanks
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks a million for the nice informative video !
glad to help!
Omg... You're in Florida!? Can you come over and fix two things? 🤣 They're perfect fixes for videos!
Piece of cake for you to do this repair all by yourself
Newbie question here: no Teflon is needed for these type of things?
great video, thank you
Awesome thank you !!!
Glad to help thanks for watching Crystal!
Nice Production Job, Thank You...
Thank you too!
Great Video by a great Teacher! Thanks a lot! :)
Thank you! 😃
I appreciate this video so much! Thank you for your knowledge 😊
Are compression fittings okay to use? I am in NJ. I tried using shark bite shut off valve but it spins around and since the basement is brick walls, hard to attach the shark bite shut off valve to the brick.
Yes compression valves are what I use exclusively now they hold much better and nice and tight compared to the shark bites. I only use sharp bites for a temporary basis.
Very helpful. Enjoyed ur video. thank u
Awesome, glad you liked it
Are all hot water spigot side require a torch to remove?
Thanks!!!
Did it work out OK for you?
@@jeffostroff yes thanks!
Thank you so much !
You're welcome!
Thank you for the video. Question; I was replacing a washing machine and turned the water handles to off position, but one of them (cold) in the
off position, still has water coming out; not a lot, but enough that forced me to turn the main water off to replace the machines. Any idea
if I have to replace the entire faucet assembly or can I take it a part and replace the o-rings maybe? Thank you!
The valve should be replaced, this happens a lot with these old gate valve styles.
Hey quick question does the hot water valve need to be different since its dealing with hot water? Is it rated differently? Thanks
Great stuff ty
Glad you enjoyed it
Good repair Jeff. Why didn’t you use ball valves? I would also replace the main shut off with a full port ball valve.
i prefer ball valves, Home Depot did not have any that I could use. The valves I would have liked to use there were the red and blue handle 1/4 turn ball valves, but they were 4" long types that are really meant to be installed in the washing machine outlet boxes that goes in the wall. I might use them anyway the next time we do a washer valve change out.
Thanks for the helpful video! How long would I need to torch for the valve to come off?
Takes about 30 seconds for the solder to melt enough to remove the valve. IF it does not reflow and melt, then you have too much water in the pipe, there can't be any water dripping out of the pipe.
Great job sir 👍
Thanks jorge I'm glad you like it
Do I have to swear off the hot water valve or can I cut and install the compression valve like you did with the cold water valve?
If you have enough pipe, you can just cut off the valve. In this video I saw how little pipe was commin out of the wall, and decided to sweat it off, then it's easier to slice off the end of the pipe if you need to.
@@jeffostroff thanks! I was able to actually pull off the old compression fitting with a wrench so I still had enough sticking out
Did you do the two different ways just to show the different ways to change the valves? Or does the HOT water valve need to be change that way?
Never mind with me question....I just re-watched the video.
Yes it works for both valves, sometimes watching a second time you absorb more of the details. Often times I find myself rewinding parts of someone's video 4 or 5 times.
Wiping off the water was a very good suggestion. I'd put a box fan on the garage floor for a hour or so to dry the floor.
Good point! We have had to do that many times before.
This was a great video. I learned a lot!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching Laura!
Great video. Gives me the confidence to do this repair in my home in Florida.
Glad I could help hope it works out for you.
are all pipes behind the water valve copper?
It really depends on the age of the house somehow this might have the red and blue pecks pipes com up and somehow this may have been built with a polybeautiful ingredients that are now illegal since 1995 but we're big in the 1970s and 1980s. And then in the fortiesThey used to use galvanized steel or cast iron pipes
@@jeffostroff thanks for the quick reply, regarding the compression nut you placed after you reamed the copper tube, what size is that and is it standard, and does that "gold "insert come with the compression nut?
@@jeffostroff "pex"
To change hot water shutoff valve, did you need to turn off water heater and drain the water?
I notice you didn't flare the tubing stub after installing the new nut and compression fitting. I can see where flaring would complicate a future valve replacement, but otherwise it seems like added insurance against the valve popping off the pipe. Your thoughts? Thank you!
We don't flare the tubing the compression is sufficient to get a good grip on there to overcome 60 PSI.
Way to go Jeff thank you great video once again! I see the compression fitting is easier fix than trying to solder back on & burning house down. What's your take on the Shark bite type of repairs. I used it replacing our Moen shower valve assemble didn't want to risk a fire!
I use Shark Bites on occasion but I will only use them outside the wall, just in case there is a leak some day. In our neighborhood we have the gray polybutylene pipes which are illegal now. When we change out a water shutoff valve under our sinks, we have to use a shark Bite connector to convert from poly pipe to copper pipe, then we install the standard compression valve on tot he copper pipe. I would only use a shark bite inside the wall if there was an access panel on the other side where I could check for leaks from time to time. Other than that I use shark Bites to temporarily cap off pipes, or to help make emergency repairs until we can get to the store and buy the right parts.
Very helpful video but, I don't know what kind of valves and seals to get
My preference is to replace these types of valves normally with the 90 degree ball valves which they sell their at Home Depot and Lowe's. The reason is because I normally dislike this type of gait valve.
Does shutting off the main water valve take care of the hot water too?
yes, it shuts of all water
@@jeffostroff in 99.9% of homes it does, but I always check both before proceeding😂😋😂
Great video. What was the name of that silicone you put on the nut?
John that is plumber's silicone grease you get it on the plumbing aisle at Home Depot
Bring next new video for 202. Real Talk 💯🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🙏🗝🙏👊
Thanks Lamonte
Is it common practice to use silicone on compression fittings or just something you discovered with experience?
I decided to use it because sometimes I could not get the nut tightened enough to make the compression of the ferule seal up the joint. So I started using the silicone grease to help lubricate the threads to that it becomes easier to tighten. Also, the silicone grease does offer some sealing properties, but should not be the main seal. The ferule should compress down enough to make your seal, the silicone grease is just a cheap insurance policy.
@@jeffostroff Technically compression fittings were designed to use only on soft copper yet over the years people started using it on hard copper. With a little practice a torch is easy to use, just be easy with the flame and use the tip of the flame in tight places.
Which brand of silicone grease?
homedepot.sjv.io/qngn1L This is what we use
Can you easy cut both of the old valves? Curious why one of them was cut and the other was torched off
Thanks
No problem, thanks for watching Edward
Maybe I missed it in the video, but why do you cut one and the other you use the torch to get it off? Could you not just cut both? Thanks for your time.
Torching! Boys will be Boys! Apart from doing a nice renovation, is there any reason against just replacing the tap (shut off valve) "gasket" ? or, should we always replace the lot by every 5 years? I detected a little water when turning the tap handle off (regular practice after each wash) so changed the hose as it wasn't replaced with the hot one +12 mths ago, by a serviceman. I havent replaced the washer (gasket) yet as only had one shifter spanner. There doesn't seem to be any leak now. Does this sound all good for now? BTW congrats on this video, nothing else came close!
I only change the shut off valves on a flip property if they look really bad, or if they leak. When selling your property, nothing beats new shiny valves. IT gives the home inspector nothing to complain about.
I have a question. My washing machine is right beside my basement door. I don't have a hose bib outside of the home. We want a garden and need to be able to water it. I'm wondering, if it is possible to use the cold water from my machine to a garden hose for outside? I am imaging that I could get the right fitting that would work as the machine looks smaller than an average garden hose. Or....should I just call a plumber and get him to put me in an outdoor bib? Thanks in advance
I think the best course of action is to install and outdoor bibb. then you will always have easy access.
Can you just unscrew the valve since it’s sweated to the copper?
Which kind of compression fitting do I need?can u post a link to one at Home Depot?
www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-3-4-in-Brass-COMP-x-MHT-Washing-Machine-Pressure-Regulating-Valve-VWMFRTD3EB/205811973
Thank you! ... also, so I need these special ranches or will vice grips and a pipe wrench work ?
Instead of compression which have 2 order to get! how about shutoff valve sharkbite connection with a short copper wall pipe like yours?
What's your feeling on the shark bite fittings?
I will only use Shark Bite fittings on the outside of the drywall, never behind the drywall. I prefer soldered connections any chance I can, and prefer to use Shark Bites in an emergency, or a temporary fix to give the owner running water while we engineer up a fix or order parts. I also use Shark Bite end caps quite a bit if I have to cap off a pipe to provide running water while we run to the store, or to leave it like that during a project until the plumbing rough in is ready to be finalized with water shut off valves, etc..
No professional plumber should be using Shark Bite except in the limited instances that Jeff mentions. That's because they have the soldering skills, and soldered copper has stood the test of time, where Shark Bite is still somewhat unknown for longevity. If I paid a plumber who used Shark Bite, I'd feel ripped off. That said, for the self reliant DIY person who isn't interested in learning copper soldering, like me, Shark Bite is a liberating thing. Now no plumbing emergency is out of my reach, and I've fixed half a dozen leaks in the copper piping of my 60 year old house with Shark Bite. Just because a pro shouldn't use Shark Bite doesn't mean you shouldn't.
More like Shark Slip. Would never use them.
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
One thing i always do after installing water valves or angle stops is i clean off the valve with a napkin. Then i take another clean napkin and set it under the valve. If theres any leaks it will drip onto the clean napkin
Yes, that is a good idea. I use that all the time with P-traps after an install, as sometimes you are likely to see the weir nut drip a bit.
This exact thing happened to me today!
You fixed it yet?
Still had quite a bit of dripping from the right pipe even after the main water valve was closed. Is it possible the main valve needs to be repaired as well?
Yes we see this all of the time especially with those multi turn gate valve shut offs. I encountered this about 75% of the time when I have to cut somebody's water off to do something. I always tell him they need to bring someone into replace that shut off with a quarter turn ball valve they are much more reliable.
@@jeffostroff Thanks for the quick reply. Agree that quarter turns are the way to go whenever replacing shutoffs.
Replacing the valve seems like a LOT more labor than simply replacing the gasket, assuming the nuts on the valve aren't stuck. (Plus the purchase of the tools if one doesn't already own them.) In my case, in a condo built during the 1970s, the cold water valve doesn't drip like the one in the video, but closing the valve all the way fails to shut off the water. (So I won't be able to disconnect the clothes washer from the other end of the water supply hose without causing a flood.)
when selling a house, or even not, it's a good time to replace a 40 year old valve, and make everything look nice and fancy and new for the buyer's inspectors, and we all love 1/4 turn ball valves.
@@jeffostroff : In my case, a condo in an 8-story building, the water supply to 16 condos' kitchens will need to be shut off during the repair or replacement of my clothes washer's water supply shutoff valve. Minimizing the time during which 16 kitchens will be crippled is another factor to consider, and putting in a new gasket would take much less time than replacing the valve (assuming the valve's nuts aren't stuck). The difference in time for a wannabe DIYer who hasn't done plumbing pipe work before probably rules out replacing the valve myself, unless the old valve can simply be unscrewed from the pipe and a new valve screwed on.
I was thinking the same thing. I was looking for a demonstration of how to replace a washer in a shut off valve that looked like mine before I took it apart.
I have a question on replacing the water supply lines. The lines are 12 years old, showing no signs of leaks. Should I replace them as preventititive maintenance? Also, since, they've been connected to the valve for 12 years, should I lubricate the connection area a day or two before trying to remove the water supply line? Thanks
Experts recommend laundry machine supply lines be replaced every 5 years. I only use steel belted hoses.
Quarter turn ball valves last longer than multi-turn compression. Did you try tightening the packing nut on the original valves?
We could have fixed this in 10 seconds, but decided to go the replacement route. Unfortunately Home Depot did not have 1/4 turn washing machine valves in stock so we reluctantly went with these new multi turns. The only 1/4 turn ball valve HD had was those real long one that mount inside the large white outlet boxes in the wall. Too long to have sticking straight out of the wall.
my problem (is not leaking) i cannot find an answe,r is the faucet for cold water is barely putting out cold water, the faucet just turn a tiny bit and that is it, How can i fix that faucet to open more to put a bit more water in my washer machine?
sometimes if there's not enough pipe coming through the wall you can pull that pipe out I have and put a vise grip on it hold it out but a lot of times there's a little play in these pipes
This pipe was well strapped to the stud in the wall, we had side to side wiggle, but not front to back wiggle.
The nut onto the compression fitting would be bigger because it's a compression fitting. Makes sense if you really think about it.
yes, and easier to tighten and loosen too
Eye Protection, Eye Protection is the Key
Yes, always when soldering
What if there's a ground clamp attached to one of the valves? Do I need an electrician first?
We have run into this before so is the ground clamp for the entire house? Or just one appliance? So either way you can remove the clamp temporarily if it's in the way and put it back when you are done and just make sure everybody in the house is warned that there is no ground protection during this operation . If the pipe looks corroded at all this is always a good time to take a little Emery cloth sandpaper and brush it up nice and clean copper and then reattach the clamp over the spot that you sanded
@@jeffostroff It's possible in some conditions (including those where your adjacent neighbor has a hazardous wiring condition) that there are both voltage and current flow present between the "ground" conductor and the copper pipe. These grounds and bonds are not just to protect electronics; opening them could pose a hazard to the person performing the repair. Extreme caution should be exercised, and at minimum, open the main disconnect to the house before disconnecting. This will reduce the risk but not completely eliminate the exposure. In the off chance the neighbor has an open neutral at the incoming service, your ground connection may be providing the alternate path for the neighbor's neutral current flow.
Looks like you replaced a new valve with a circa 1940’s valve 😂😂😂 jk, good job
Joe, you know it, they were butt ugly, I was disappointed in Home Depot, this was the only compression washing machine shut off valve they had, and not only does it look old fashioned, it's a multi-turn, not a 1/4 turn like I prefer. I usually like to get the red and blue plastic handle shutoffs, but the valves they had in stock were those 4" long sweat on types that are meant to be used in those newer white plastic washing machine water outlet boxes that go in the wall. I could have gone to a plumbing supply house to get the perfect designed 1/4 turn angle stops., but I wanted to keep everything as though the DIY homeowner would be doing it.
@@jeffostroff Good for you
You could have simply tightened the packing nut to stop the leak.
This was not just a $10 fix, the two valves, escutcheons and tools made this a costly repair over what was actually needed.
You can repack the graphite seal cheaper and quicker with the same or better end results. All you need is a wrench and the packing material.
Should have opened the spigot at the main shut-off outside and you wouldn’t have had so much endless water dripping from the washer spigot that you were changing. The outside water spigot is lower than the inside and the water would have poured out there and by the time you got back in the house/garage and opened those spigots nothing would have came out. Also, it was you that caused hot water pipe to have all that movement in it, you can clearly see that when you were tighten the new valve on you broke the tack nail that was holding the pipe still.
You are wrong about the the water pipe, it was already loose because the builder never had any type of appropriate pipe bracket to secure that pipe inside the wall. In fact, look at 13:25 in the video, before I even install the parts onto the pipe you can see it is loose. This was not caused by me tightening the new valve on, it was like that before I ever started. We solved this at 17:30 in the video like we do 100% of the time this happens by squirting PL adhesive into the opening around the pipe and drywall, dries hard as a rock. Works like a charm.
What about ball valves - so much easier and reliable.
Yes we do normally use the quarter turn ball valve I can't remember what happened to that day or why we ended up using these it could have been a store that we went to was out of them
@4:08 how to cut that flange?
I use metal aviation snips from Wiss, sold at Home Depot, sometimes an old pair of wire cutters that you don't care too much about can be used to start the cut into the flange, then tear it apart with pliers.
All you needed to do was replace the valve packing. It was leaking through the stem.
These valves were old ad needed to go, the house was being sold. Much better to leave brand new valves that some idiot inspector can't come in and abuse them while he opens and closes them to cause a leak.
@@jeffostroff Good point! You could have pointed that out so people like me don’t have to comment.
@@tomfinn6579 It's good to have comments especially different opinions on how to do things so that people can see all of the different ideas that are out therr
@@tomfinn6579 he *did* point that out in the video. He discussed the pros and cons of just replacing the seals. Did you miss it? See about 3:10 .
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Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Why do the washing machine hoses have round fittings, while all other plumbing supply hoses have square or hex? If you have corrosion, it's almost impossible to loosen without damaging the connection.
That's why you are supposed to use steel belted hoses and replace every 5 years so you don't have this problem. Many of the newer hoses come with hex hose ends that will fit a wrench
@@jeffostroff appreciate the response. But why were they ever round to begin with? Much harder to turn, and if you use a pipe wrench you crush the fitting. If you use only your hands it may not be tight enough.
Screw valve is always troublesome. Ceric valve is dependable.
I usually install 1/4 turn ball valves
Was ist "ceric"?
I have a whistle coming from one of the valves now the washer doesn’t even come on🤷♀️
"Austin Powers impression"..........LOL......I (and many aging males) resemble that remark.
Yeah man!
Finishes its Austin Powers impression 😂😂😂
Yeah baby!
could you not just replace the internal washer to fix the leak?
What you are proposing only works if the internal washer is the issue, but what if it is not, also many of these gate valves use packing rope inside, not a washer so that's why tightening the bonnet not on the outside a lot of times will solve the problem period but in this case we wanted to remove these old gate valves cause because when they are this old and original they're bound to break any day in with the luck of the sellers, it would happen during a time that the buyer's inspector comes to exercise the faucets to see if they are working period I always in this situation because it's a piece of cake will replace the old gate valves with much more modern and improved quarter turn ball valves period of course in this case we replaced it with whatever was given to us.
My lines are pvc piping only
looks like I am getting the torch out lol
I don't understand what is holding the valve onto the pipe, as far as i can see the pipe had no thread.
It is a compression fitting that compresses against the ferrule ring. The more you tighten the front and back parts of the valve togethers, the more it compression tightens around the ferrule ring.
I'm guessing similar way with toilet bottom valve
You have 2 hot water lines, one must be going to the dishwasher, the other to the sink.
No this is in the garage
don't understand when doing this work - You don't use a ball valve. The valve you used has a rubber gasket that eventually fails. I would never use this type if valve anymore - I consider them obsolete and trouble in the near future.
I normally use a ball valve. The owner wanted the same type of valve installed
PL is great until the next guy comes to fix a leak
They can easily slice around the PL.