I just used your excellent video to help me with my filter change/AC cleaning in my M3DLR (Canadian version, if there is a difference). It was super helpful, but there were a few things that were slighly different in my car that I think might help others who tackle this relatively simple but awkward job. A little piece of advice for anyone before you start, get a compact but bright wide-angle light. This job is farther back and more awkward than the video suggests, and would be rather difficult without sufficient light. 1. First off, I didn't have one of your handy spudger tools, so I just used a 1" putty knife to pull the plastic push pins. It worked fine. 2. Next, I didn't realized a long-press on the fan icon on the screen would turn off the HVAC fan, I found that info elsewhere. This is necessary, LOL :D 3. Two of the clips that hold the orange cable in place for me were different than yours. The easiest to access one was super easy, just like yours, but the other two (the ones further back) have these evil little metal teeth inside a plastic "alligator" holder. It was incredibly difficult to get them off. I used a very small flat-bladed screwdriver to carefully slide in and under the plastic thing and pried it off with some serious fiddling. This one step probably took as long as everything else. Terrible design choice, I wish mine were like yours. 4. The plug for the speaker on mine had a little "barbed" plastic bit that I had to fiddle with to get free. Once I got it disconnected, closer inspection of the plastic plug revealed that it was a rather fragile component, and I should have used a little more care. I didn't break it, but I definitely could have. 5. The little #20 Torx screw was the same, but I had the presence of mind to use a magnetized driver. *Definitely* advisable! There are places where you could drop that screw and lose it forever. Note that it's easy to mistakenly remove a different screw, so to anyone following this tutorial, make sure you get on the right one. 6. The stock filters inside my car didn't have the tabs to assist with removal. I had to fiddle with them to get 'em out. That's about it. I used the same foaming cleaner which I ordered on Amazon. It shipped rather slowly from California, taking much longer than expected. I used the stock Tesla filters which arrived extremely quickly. The ones I pulled from my car (after ~18 months and roughly 18,000km) were full of bugs and poplar fluff. After the swap, I had notably more airflow, and it definitely removed the bad A/C smell. My only concern is that there might have been bug carcasses left in the bottom of the chamber that held the filters, but there was no simple way to check or to remove them if they were there. If I was to recommend one more thing, I'd suggest people get ahold of some kind of vacuum that can fit through the filter access in order to get any large particles that might have fallen off the filter into the chamber. Anyway, thanks for the vid, it was super helpful, despite the differences in our cars.
Thanks for your comment: I have the same “gator” connectors and it took me a while too to figure how to remove them... I ended removing only one: the orange cable has enough flexibility that I don’t think it is necessary to disconnect it from the filter plate. Of course better do it if you have simple connectors but not if you have the “gator” connectors.
This is an excellent video. You show every step very clearly filmed. I like that you did not skip any steps and that you had good lighting every step of the way. Thank you for a great job.
@cbknola The video made the cabin filter changing process easier but it was still more difficult than it needs to be. Much like yourself, I had to contort my body into odd angles to get it done.
I just replaced mine! Thank you, so much for the clear guide. My additional insight: be careful with the white clips holding the side carpet on, half of my repair time was recovering one that fell backward. Also, that torx screw is waaaay the up there. It is why you had to remove the plastic face and it still took me a bit to find it.
Just changed mine out. About a year overdue. Bad on my part. After watching the video everything fell in place. Your camera angles and lighting were excellent!
Best Video I have watched for this so far. No one else has mentioned those tabs on the top of the plastic panel under the glove box, or how the push connectors work or the difficulty with the torx screw. I am looking forward to doing mine later today!
First of all, amazing camera angles, it is very easy to see what you are doing. Thanks! I do have one suggestion, maybe some of the parts can be fast forwarded like when you are removing the screw right after it starts spinning.
Thanks for making the video. Watched it months ago and had to reference it again today when replacing my filters. You almost need to be a contortionist to remove that T20 screw.
Thank you for doing this video. I'm 6' tall, and just could not get to the screw from the passenger side. I finally started in the driver's seat, and worked my way across until my head was at the passenger foot space. This allowed me to see what I was doing in removing the screw.
I ended up taking off my shoes, reclining and moving back the passenger seat all the way and then sitting upside down in the seat with my feet on the headrest. Not easy!
I followed your instructions and did mine. I have to say it is very difficult job just to change a cabin filter. I couldn't get the speaker wire off and that torx screw was insane...
Thank you for a great video. I found it very informative. I followed your instructions and I found it very easy to complete. I had no issues at all and now the mildew smell is gone! Very happy.!
Thank you! Thank you! You made this very clear. I have just completed the procedure on my 1-year old Model 3. The "sour" smell had been getting bad. I am looking forward to a nicer environment now. A couple of things: The camera angles were remarkable - I had enough difficulty getting access to the screw let alone thinking about filming it! Who designed a screw to go where this one does??!!! The filter slot is higher, further back, and smaller than I had anticipated ...your video was priceless. I also couldn't get the speaker connector off and managed to do the work around the panel. Thanks again. Dave
You need about 3 times the surface area for a Hepa filter verses a standard filter. For your house ac do not use anything higher than.a merv 10 rating unless it’s a 5” thick media filter they will drastically cut your airflow and increase wear on the blower motor
Agreed with the recommendation to stick with Tesla filters. Just ordered and received some with free shipping from Tesla directly for $34 for the pair.
For the single screw... Take the torx driver off the ratchet and simply tape (by wrapping) the driver to the screw temporarily. This way you don't have to worry about the screw falling off and dropping behind the carpet. Now you can hand tighten the screw a few turns holding the driver until it is well set, pull the tape off, and ratchet the screw in. The screw taped on the driver gives you extra reach making it easier to place the screw.
Thank you so much for this video!! I was able to change my filters in less than 20 minutes 😊 I was able to use the torx tool that came with the Ring camera!
These Tesla filters seem to be the MANN "Frecious Plus" series. A really high quality german made activated carbon filter with fine dust (PM2.5) filtering layer and antiallergic, antibacterial and fungicidal coating (that´s the yellow colour). Tesla knows what is good. If they would add an automatic air recirculation system and a permanent partly recirculation mode (like the "Air Care" system from Volkswagen) the climate control would be perfect.
Thanks for the hardwork involved in creating this video. Million Dollar Question: Why did Tesla make it extremely difficult to replace a maintenance item that is the cabin air filter?
@@EveryAmp Not so much QA budget. At least the "hidden" filters on Teslas are better than disabled navi manual inputs while many toyotas, hondas, etc are being driven
I didn't disconnect the speaker wire and depending on which set I used it was N20 or N15 socket. I had a missing push pin also. 🙄 Thanks though, very useful.
Completed this job today and found out that the last time when Tesla performed this service via mobile appointment they broke off the air filter cover screw, and my speaker wiring connector. So if you had it done previously by Tesla be careful.
On my M3, 2020, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the 2 “orange cable” clips from the black cover. I thought there were tabs that needed to be bent or similar, but those suckers just wouldn’t let go. I left them on there. Any ideas
I tried removing mine too, finally decided to let them on and they didn’t cause me any trouble doing the job. Also, I used a long hex extension for my torx bit. Using a extension I was able work above the duct vents to easily remove that small #20 torx screw and to put it back together.
Did you notice any signs of mold on the coils? I don’t have the smell but should probably change the filters soon. Wondering if I should clean the coils to be extra thorough or just replace the filters 🧐
I stuck the camera up in there and could only see shiny silver, so definitely not bad, but still was getting smelly. I'll probably continue using the cleaner in the future since most of the work is already done at that point.
It seems like you just pull out the speaker wire. Is that right, or did you put some work in off camera to make it easy to pull out? Mine seems firmly set in place and it looks like there is a defectable ledge that holds it in place, similar (but not the same) as the light connector. However, it is very difficult to deflect the ledge to get it to disengage.
I only have 1,200 miles on my P3 so I have a ways to go before worrying about changing the filters but I’m trying to understand why the evap coil needs to be cleaned? That tells me the filters aren’t doing their job. I do have HVAC background and am mind blown about this because every car I’ve ever owned, all I had to do was change the filter and never once had to clean the evaporator.
Most cars don't run the air while you're parked like Teslas can. It seems to allow for some bacterial growth that smells like vinegar. The cleaning is only necessary if that happens to you in your climate.
Just had this done at the dealership today and question if it was worth $150, but how often do you find yourself having to do this to get rid of the musty smell? I know the filter doesn't need to be replaced for 2 years... but the musty smell showed up after a year so I'm feeling like I'll need to do this at least once a year. Wdyt?
Why did you not cover up the filter hatch and run the fan IMMEDIATELY after filling the compartment with the foam? Wouldn't that have helped insure that the cleaner was getting into all the areas that it needs to? Why wait till after it has 'collapsed' and drained out of the bottom of the car?
I assume someone has already suggested that Tesla should reverse the fasteners on that little door. A clip on top and a screw on the bottom so it can be easily accessed.
Much more awkward and difficult than it should be. So, you save trips to the dealer for oil changes vs an ICE, but most people would end up having to drive to a service center anyway just to get this filter changed every year. You can change the cabin filter of most ICE cars in less than 1/4 the time without tools. Simply open the glove box door, disconnect the release so it drops down all the way and reach behind to swap the filter.
@@T3chAndThings The other issue is what happens if you lose your grip on the Torx screw when removing it or when replacing it at the end? It will fall down behind the panels and you will have to go to the Tesla service center for them to take that area apart so they can retrieve it. You could just buy a replacement screw, but then you may have to listen to the loose screw rattling around as you drive.
How the hell did you get the light and speaker connections off so easily? I can't for the life of me get them to detach without feeling like I'm going to rip the damn wires off
@@EveryAmp @TeslaJae - my guess (and this just a semi-educated guess) is that it's for certain notification noises, like a seatbelt warning. I wouldn't be surprised if it was some kind of insurance company requirement or NHTSA/OSHA regulation to have a dedicated audio circuit for some of those things.
@@EveryAmp Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I was able to use a full size 9" driver. The trick is to put the driver above the lower air vent. I could only visualize all this by reclining the passenger seat all the way and putting my feet on the headrest so my head would be on the floor looking up at the Torx 20 screw. Would be nice if this were just a thumbscrew. Of note, unlike many cars the cover does not snap in, so use of the screw is required.
@@EveryAmp Ah, it doesn't count then. Mine doesn't smell in the winter too even though it smelled bad before I started using the heater. It comes back very quickly as soon as AC is running. Mold needs water.
Are you using cabin overheat protection? Fan only or AC? I've read people recommending to use it with fan only to get that moisture out. I can't prove it works, but it makes sense.
Make sure you have cabin overheat protection set to "No A/C" and Preconditioning turned off if you use scheduled departure. Both can contribute to the smell.
I had Tesla mobile service come to my garage, did the same work, more thorough HVAC tract spray and cleaning too, plus tire pressure refill (CA law mandate), all for $141. I swear I will lose all my DIY skills if this pattern continues.
Thanks for a great how to video. I have two questions. First, I noticed one of the push pin is missing when trying to undo them to remove the panel below the glove box. I tried to find a replacement but unable to find it. There are many out there but not sure which one would be the correct one to get. Do you have any recommendations? Second, I noticed while trying to put the panel back on I am also missing the right sided plastic piece that the panel slot is supposed to slide onto. Unclear as to why it's missing but do you know if there is a replacement piece for that? Tesla do make their cars "unique". You just don't know what makes yours unique until you start looking I guess.
Thanks! I've had good luck getting similar clips from my service center. It helps if you have the part number which you can find here: epc.tesla.com/#/systemGroups/47290 For the panel, no idea really. Mine is an early build so it's possible they just eliminated that part.
That does look quite a bit more involved than replacing the air filters on other cars these days. I used to change my air filters myself. This I wouldn't touch...too much contortion to get down in there. Ugh.
2020 Cleaning Update: The Kool-It cleaner was available this year so I tried it. They both seem to have performed well, but Kool-It definitely smells stronger for longer. The DWD2 is more of a subtle starch smell compared to a strong mint smell on the Kool-It. I prefer the DWD2, but it costs twice as much, so pick your priorities there. DWD2: amzn.to/2LmMgRT Kool-It: amzn.to/39yqxy8 Also, this tool worked great to get to that top screw: th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
Why do car manufacturers design cabin filters so complicated & hard to access, why not just keep it simple and easily replaceable in the glove compartment (plug & play) without screws and having to take the car apart to replace it. It would even be good business if car owners could easily replace it.
The plastic removal tool he's using looks too thick, and those pop-out fasteners look pretty torn up already. Use a thinner "spluger" (aka "splooger") tool like they use for prying apart cell phones or thin laptops.
Yeah, that was Tesla's doing from the HW3 upgrade. I really don't understand why people can't remove clips without busting them up. I witnessed a mechanic once just breaking them off with a screwdriver.
I just did mine today! I'm a 64 year old grandma. :)
I just used your excellent video to help me with my filter change/AC cleaning in my M3DLR (Canadian version, if there is a difference). It was super helpful, but there were a few things that were slighly different in my car that I think might help others who tackle this relatively simple but awkward job. A little piece of advice for anyone before you start, get a compact but bright wide-angle light. This job is farther back and more awkward than the video suggests, and would be rather difficult without sufficient light.
1. First off, I didn't have one of your handy spudger tools, so I just used a 1" putty knife to pull the plastic push pins. It worked fine.
2. Next, I didn't realized a long-press on the fan icon on the screen would turn off the HVAC fan, I found that info elsewhere. This is necessary, LOL :D
3. Two of the clips that hold the orange cable in place for me were different than yours. The easiest to access one was super easy, just like yours, but the other two (the ones further back) have these evil little metal teeth inside a plastic "alligator" holder. It was incredibly difficult to get them off. I used a very small flat-bladed screwdriver to carefully slide in and under the plastic thing and pried it off with some serious fiddling. This one step probably took as long as everything else. Terrible design choice, I wish mine were like yours.
4. The plug for the speaker on mine had a little "barbed" plastic bit that I had to fiddle with to get free. Once I got it disconnected, closer inspection of the plastic plug revealed that it was a rather fragile component, and I should have used a little more care. I didn't break it, but I definitely could have.
5. The little #20 Torx screw was the same, but I had the presence of mind to use a magnetized driver. *Definitely* advisable! There are places where you could drop that screw and lose it forever. Note that it's easy to mistakenly remove a different screw, so to anyone following this tutorial, make sure you get on the right one.
6. The stock filters inside my car didn't have the tabs to assist with removal. I had to fiddle with them to get 'em out.
That's about it. I used the same foaming cleaner which I ordered on Amazon. It shipped rather slowly from California, taking much longer than expected. I used the stock Tesla filters which arrived extremely quickly. The ones I pulled from my car (after ~18 months and roughly 18,000km) were full of bugs and poplar fluff. After the swap, I had notably more airflow, and it definitely removed the bad A/C smell. My only concern is that there might have been bug carcasses left in the bottom of the chamber that held the filters, but there was no simple way to check or to remove them if they were there. If I was to recommend one more thing, I'd suggest people get ahold of some kind of vacuum that can fit through the filter access in order to get any large particles that might have fallen off the filter into the chamber.
Anyway, thanks for the vid, it was super helpful, despite the differences in our cars.
Thanks for your comment: I have the same “gator” connectors and it took me a while too to figure how to remove them... I ended removing only one: the orange cable has enough flexibility that I don’t think it is necessary to disconnect it from the filter plate. Of course better do it if you have simple connectors but not if you have the “gator” connectors.
Great camera angles. I can actualy see what you're working on!
This is an excellent video. You show every step very clearly filmed. I like that you did not skip any steps and that you had good lighting every step of the way. Thank you for a great job.
Great video and camera angles. I was dreading changing the cabin filters in my M3 but your video is a game changer. Many thanks!
@cbknola The video made the cabin filter changing process easier but it was still more difficult than it needs to be. Much like yourself, I had to contort my body into odd angles to get it done.
I just replaced mine! Thank you, so much for the clear guide. My additional insight: be careful with the white clips holding the side carpet on, half of my repair time was recovering one that fell backward. Also, that torx screw is waaaay the up there. It is why you had to remove the plastic face and it still took me a bit to find it.
Awesome video man, thank you for having clear directions, and camera angels that we can see what you’re doing. Good work my man .
Just changed mine out. About a year overdue. Bad on my part. After watching the video everything fell in place. Your camera angles and lighting were excellent!
Well done man. A lot of work for this filter.
Best Video I have watched for this so far. No one else has mentioned those tabs on the top of the plastic panel under the glove box, or how the push connectors work or the difficulty with the torx screw. I am looking forward to doing mine later today!
Thanks! Did you see the follow-up with a better tool to reach that screw? th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
Super happy that you made this video. This definitely looks easy enough to do on my own, especially the evaporator cleaning! Thank you!
First of all, amazing camera angles, it is very easy to see what you are doing. Thanks! I do have one suggestion, maybe some of the parts can be fast forwarded like when you are removing the screw right after it starts spinning.
Thanks for making the video. Watched it months ago and had to reference it again today when replacing my filters. You almost need to be a contortionist to remove that T20 screw.
Thank you for doing this video. I'm 6' tall, and just could not get to the screw from the passenger side. I finally started in the driver's seat, and worked my way across until my head was at the passenger foot space. This allowed me to see what I was doing in removing the screw.
I ended up taking off my shoes, reclining and moving back the passenger seat all the way and then sitting upside down in the seat with my feet on the headrest. Not easy!
6'5" and I agree that this job is meant for shorter people...
I followed your instructions and did mine. I have to say it is very difficult job just to change a cabin filter. I couldn't get the speaker wire off and that torx screw was insane...
Having the same issue. It seem like everyone rips theirs off or something lol
Thank you for a great video. I found it very informative. I followed your instructions and I found it very easy to complete. I had no issues at all and now the mildew smell is gone! Very happy.!
About time to do the filters. Great vid. I got a friend you know on twitter that will install for free. Lucky for me
Thank you! Thank you! You made this very clear. I have just completed the procedure on my 1-year old Model 3. The "sour" smell had been getting bad. I am looking forward to a nicer environment now.
A couple of things:
The camera angles were remarkable - I had enough difficulty getting access to the screw let alone thinking about filming it! Who designed a screw to go where this one does??!!!
The filter slot is higher, further back, and smaller than I had anticipated ...your video was priceless.
I also couldn't get the speaker connector off and managed to do the work around the panel.
Thanks again. Dave
Broke the speaker terminal block tab and then just went around it.
Seriously with the screw placement, the screw could have easily been placed on the other side of the cover, and pivoted on the other end.
This has to be the convoluted design for a cabin filter location I have ever seen. I got a sore neck just watching this video.
I'm sure it makes sense on the assembly line at the factory, but not so much after.
Having done hundreds of cabin air filters on lots of cars, this is not bad or time consuming
You need about 3 times the surface area for a Hepa filter verses a standard filter. For your house ac do not use anything higher than.a merv 10 rating unless it’s a 5” thick media filter they will drastically cut your airflow and increase wear on the blower motor
My HVAC guy told me to buy the cheapest house ac filter I could find but to change it often.
Agreed with the recommendation to stick with Tesla filters. Just ordered and received some with free shipping from Tesla directly for $34 for the pair.
For the single screw...
Take the torx driver off the ratchet and simply tape (by wrapping) the driver to the screw temporarily. This way you don't have to worry about the screw falling off and dropping behind the carpet. Now you can hand tighten the screw a few turns holding the driver until it is well set, pull the tape off, and ratchet the screw in.
The screw taped on the driver gives you extra reach making it easier to place the screw.
Thank you so much for this video!! I was able to change my filters in less than 20 minutes 😊 I was able to use the torx tool that came with the Ring camera!
These Tesla filters seem to be the MANN "Frecious Plus" series. A really high quality german made activated carbon filter with fine dust (PM2.5) filtering layer and antiallergic, antibacterial and fungicidal coating (that´s the yellow colour). Tesla knows what is good. If they would add an automatic air recirculation system and a permanent partly recirculation mode (like the "Air Care" system from Volkswagen) the climate control would be perfect.
Great video! 2nd time I used it to replace cabin filters!
You could also vaccum (carefully) the compartment after removing the filters, to get rid of seeds and leaves.
Great explanation! Thanks for the tip on the tools.
Perfect timing. I was just thinking about doing this.
Mind sync complete
Convinced me not to do it myself. I’m handy but not bendy. I could seriously get hurt trying to get myself in those positions!
To everyone watching.
If the speaker plug does not come out somewhat easily, just skip that step and do everything else. You’ll save a lot of time
there's a circle of hell personally reserved for whomever designed this
Thanks so much for posting this video. Mine stinks so badly!!
Thanks for the hardwork involved in creating this video.
Million Dollar Question:
Why did Tesla make it extremely difficult to replace a maintenance item that is the cabin air filter?
Yeah, sometimes engineers get caught up in making things easy to build, not maintain.
Source: Am engineer.
@@EveryAmp Not so much QA budget. At least the "hidden" filters on Teslas are better than disabled navi manual inputs while many toyotas, hondas, etc are being driven
EVs seem to have horrible filter locations. This looks real easy compared to my current Nissan Leaf
Why do you need a torx screw why not philip Tesla engineer?
Torx are much more reliable for assembly line and not stripping. Probably a major factor
I didn't disconnect the speaker wire and depending on which set I used it was N20 or N15 socket. I had a missing push pin also. 🙄
Thanks though, very useful.
Completed this job today and found out that the last time when Tesla performed this service via mobile appointment they broke off the air filter cover screw, and my speaker wiring connector. So if you had it done previously by Tesla be careful.
Nice, clear explanation. Thank you!
On my M3, 2020, I couldn’t figure out how to remove the 2 “orange cable” clips from the black cover. I thought there were tabs that needed to be bent or similar, but those suckers just wouldn’t let go. I left them on there. Any ideas
I tried removing mine too, finally decided to let them on and they didn’t cause me any trouble doing the job. Also, I used a long hex extension for my torx bit. Using a extension I was able work above the duct vents to easily remove that small #20 torx screw and to put it back together.
Did you notice any signs of mold on the coils? I don’t have the smell but should probably change the filters soon. Wondering if I should clean the coils to be extra thorough or just replace the filters 🧐
I stuck the camera up in there and could only see shiny silver, so definitely not bad, but still was getting smelly. I'll probably continue using the cleaner in the future since most of the work is already done at that point.
They have so much room in the car but can't design to make it easy to replace~~
Great video, now if someone can find a thunbscrew with the same threads to replace that dastardly t-20 screw
I was going to try to find one. A thumb screw would be perfect for this.
@@MichaelWottle I found a source, but after further thinking on it, I think this is a better route: th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
I found a source, but after further thinking on it, I think this is a better route: th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
On the newer model 3. The torx screw now is way easier to get off. They did move it down..
Yeah. Same on Y
Super vid! Very well made DIY thanks a lot!
wholy crap is that dwd2 evaporator cleaner expensive! you're really flexing!!
Can you do a video where you fix the B pillar issue with replacing the clips that hold it on? Mine is falling off
Awesome video! Thanks for posting! Quick question, do you leave the AC on “auto” or “on” all the time? Curious if that contributes to the smell.
Auto
Great slow detailed explanation! Good job.
Doing this exact process this weekend
That speaker is for the sound of the radio? Regards.
Can you do a video on the AC reciever Dessicant replacement?
It seems like you just pull out the speaker wire. Is that right, or did you put some work in off camera to make it easy to pull out? Mine seems firmly set in place and it looks like there is a defectable ledge that holds it in place, similar (but not the same) as the light connector. However, it is very difficult to deflect the ledge to get it to disengage.
I only have 1,200 miles on my P3 so I have a ways to go before worrying about changing the filters but I’m trying to understand why the evap coil needs to be cleaned? That tells me the filters aren’t doing their job. I do have HVAC background and am mind blown about this because every car I’ve ever owned, all I had to do was change the filter and never once had to clean the evaporator.
Most cars don't run the air while you're parked like Teslas can. It seems to allow for some bacterial growth that smells like vinegar. The cleaning is only necessary if that happens to you in your climate.
Just had this done at the dealership today and question if it was worth $150, but how often do you find yourself having to do this to get rid of the musty smell? I know the filter doesn't need to be replaced for 2 years... but the musty smell showed up after a year so I'm feeling like I'll need to do this at least once a year. Wdyt?
You made this look easy lol. Thanks though, eventually got it done!
Why did you not cover up the filter hatch and run the fan IMMEDIATELY after filling the compartment with the foam? Wouldn't that have helped insure that the cleaner was getting into all the areas that it needs to? Why wait till after it has 'collapsed' and drained out of the bottom of the car?
I assume someone has already suggested that Tesla should reverse the fasteners on that little door. A clip on top and a screw on the bottom so it can be easily accessed.
It is now reversed on newer cars.
Much more awkward and difficult than it should be.
So, you save trips to the dealer for oil changes vs an ICE, but most people would end up having to drive to a service center anyway just to get this filter changed every year.
You can change the cabin filter of most ICE cars in less than 1/4 the time without tools. Simply open the glove box door, disconnect the release so it drops down all the way and reach behind to swap the filter.
webcomment I was thinking the same thing. I love these cars but replacing the cabin air filter can be done in about 3-4 min on a regular car.
@@T3chAndThings The other issue is what happens if you lose your grip on the Torx screw when removing it or when replacing it at the end? It will fall down behind the panels and you will have to go to the Tesla service center for them to take that area apart so they can retrieve it.
You could just buy a replacement screw, but then you may have to listen to the loose screw rattling around as you drive.
They can be bought on Tesla’s web shop and they ship for free. shop.tesla.com/product/model-3-air-filter
Thank you
Pro tip: do the torx screw step on your back looking up
Thanks!
Looks very laborious... I hate to reach those areas. The action cam microphone makes it sound even tougher.
Hi! How do you know when to replace the cabin filters?
New to Tesla here. TIA!!
For a lot of people, they start getting a vinegar smell. Otherwise, once a year is a good idea, maybe more if you're in a dusty area.
Does model Y use the same filter? I didn't see model Y air filter in Tesla website.
Yes, 3 and Y are the same filters
What is the small ratchet set you are using ? Very difficult spot to get in.
I've actually found a better tool here: th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
Awesome!! Thank you
Great video !
What is the torque tool you are using ? I am a complete novice ! Lol.
I've found that this is a better tool actually: th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
How the hell did you get the light and speaker connections off so easily? I can't for the life of me get them to detach without feeling like I'm going to rip the damn wires off
There's usually a trick for each of these connectors. These had a little button you push to release them.
@@EveryAmp I finally got them, but the speaker was horrible. I had to use needle nose pliers to grip it and yank it off
How did you remove the speaker cable so easily?! It wouldn’t budge for me, so I had to just work with that piece moved to the side
Pretty sure it has a little catch that I pushed to release it
Should I turn off the power before I replace the filter?
Just turn off the fan using the button on the screen.
Here's a better tool I've found to access that tricky screw: th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
wonder if using the spray from inlet makes any difference ? gezz they couldn t put that screw on the bottom of the cover now could they lol
It's a pretty thick foam, so it needs to go right on the evaporator to be effective really.
Yeah, quite a few things that could be easier about it.
@@EveryAmp Could someone find a knurled head screw that would fit the top cover one? I don't think it needs to be child proof like that.
Great vid! Even I might be able to do this! LOL. Question, whats the speaker for that you unplugged next to the ambient foot light?
So far as I've seen, nobody really knows.
@@EveryAmp @TeslaJae - my guess (and this just a semi-educated guess) is that it's for certain notification noises, like a seatbelt warning. I wouldn't be surprised if it was some kind of insurance company requirement or NHTSA/OSHA regulation to have a dedicated audio circuit for some of those things.
What ratchet did you use? I can barely see the torx bit that needs to be removed let alone get a driver bit in it.
I'm using one like this: amzn.to/39VO4s2 but I've been curious if one of these finger ratchets might work better: amzn.to/39Wj3E4
@@EveryAmp Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I was able to use a full size 9" driver. The trick is to put the driver above the lower air vent. I could only visualize all this by reclining the passenger seat all the way and putting my feet on the headrest so my head would be on the floor looking up at the Torx 20 screw. Would be nice if this were just a thumbscrew. Of note, unlike many cars the cover does not snap in, so use of the screw is required.
Did it help to eliminate the smell? In my case, the smell returned just in two weeks.
Totally. Mine has been great ever since, but it is winter now also, so that helps.
@@EveryAmp Ah, it doesn't count then. Mine doesn't smell in the winter too even though it smelled bad before I started using the heater. It comes back very quickly as soon as AC is running. Mold needs water.
Are you using cabin overheat protection? Fan only or AC? I've read people recommending to use it with fan only to get that moisture out. I can't prove it works, but it makes sense.
You don't really need to take off the speakers just slide it over and work around it. I never took it off and was completely fine!
How long should you wait to change the filters?
It's more based on the conditions in your area than time. 2 years probably, 1 year maybe. If you're getting the funky smell, definitely do it then.
If you can do most of the job with one hand I should be able to do it with two
Been 6 months & my car is already smelling funky.
Make sure you have cabin overheat protection set to "No A/C" and Preconditioning turned off if you use scheduled departure. Both can contribute to the smell.
Perfect just broke the speaker connector
Thanks for a great video. But WTF was TESLA thinking when they designed this.
I'm sure it's quick and easy at the factory. You see it all the time with cars. Engineers have rarely ever worked at service centers.
I had Tesla mobile service come to my garage, did the same work, more thorough HVAC tract spray and cleaning too, plus tire pressure refill (CA law mandate), all for $141. I swear I will lose all my DIY skills if this pattern continues.
Thanks for a great how to video. I have two questions. First, I noticed one of the push pin is missing when trying to undo them to remove the panel below the glove box. I tried to find a replacement but unable to find it. There are many out there but not sure which one would be the correct one to get. Do you have any recommendations? Second, I noticed while trying to put the panel back on I am also missing the right sided plastic piece that the panel slot is supposed to slide onto. Unclear as to why it's missing but do you know if there is a replacement piece for that? Tesla do make their cars "unique". You just don't know what makes yours unique until you start looking I guess.
Thanks! I've had good luck getting similar clips from my service center. It helps if you have the part number which you can find here: epc.tesla.com/#/systemGroups/47290
For the panel, no idea really. Mine is an early build so it's possible they just eliminated that part.
This looks so complicated for an air filter. I thought it would take 30 seconds.
That does look quite a bit more involved than replacing the air filters on other cars these days. I used to change my air filters myself. This I wouldn't touch...too much contortion to get down in there. Ugh.
Good vid
The filter you put back in looked dirty. Why? Nice video though.
These aren't the simple paper filters you're probably thinking of. They're multilayer with an activated carbon layer.
2020 Cleaning Update:
The Kool-It cleaner was available this year so I tried it. They both seem to have performed well, but Kool-It definitely smells stronger for longer. The DWD2 is more of a subtle starch smell compared to a strong mint smell on the Kool-It. I prefer the DWD2, but it costs twice as much, so pick your priorities there.
DWD2: amzn.to/2LmMgRT
Kool-It: amzn.to/39yqxy8
Also, this tool worked great to get to that top screw: th-cam.com/video/GuFR1-1UHP8/w-d-xo.html
The screw size on my 2019 M3 was T15, not T20.
Just did mine...2019 M3 Long Range T20.
@@leetjohnson 2018 M3 Long Range was T20
Why do car manufacturers design cabin filters so complicated & hard to access, why not just keep it simple and easily replaceable in the glove compartment (plug & play) without screws and having to take the car apart to replace it.
It would even be good business if car owners could easily replace it.
So you drove 2 hours to "your" Tesla Service Center to buy these filters? And you didn't say how much the filters cost?
I was already there for something else. They're $35 from Tesla.
@@EveryAmp $35 each?
LivingTesla $35 each or $35 total for both?
$35 total. They come as a set.
@@EveryAmp oh that's not a bad price.
What a freaking pain!
The plastic removal tool he's using looks too thick, and those pop-out fasteners look pretty torn up already. Use a thinner "spluger" (aka "splooger") tool like they use for prying apart cell phones or thin laptops.
Yeah, that was Tesla's doing from the HW3 upgrade. I really don't understand why people can't remove clips without busting them up. I witnessed a mechanic once just breaking them off with a screwdriver.
Tesla's mechanical structure design was SO terrible.
This looks way too complicated to just replace an air filter.
Some design decisions save seconds in the factory and cost minutes or hours outside the factory. This is one of those decisions.
just get to the change. nobody cares about minutes and minutes of monologue at the beginning of these vids
Sounds like there's an opportunity here for you to make exactly the kind of content you'd prefer. Let us know when you do and we'll subscribe.
He’s teaching you how to do something and you complain. You know, there is a fast forward button. Geesh.