Liked the way you changed the rollers. Thinking about doing the same on my door. Have a question...it's an old door, the hinges have been lubricated a number of times with white lithium grease and now they are full of crud. Any suggestions about how to clean the hinges?
You didn't show how you replaced the upper wheel. It's not able to get to the vertical channel that you opened to replace the others. Did you open the horizontal channel to replace the top wheel?
The roller sleeves are designed to be a little tight to reduce the metal to metal contact of the roller stem, as long as the roller wheel itself still rolls smoothly, and the door doesn’t bind, then it’s all good
which brand/model door opener are you using with your Wayne Dalton door? when i installed my Wayne Dalton doors 15 years ago i was going to run their iDrive openers, then they discontinued them. would like to know how you're doing it. thanks.
Great job! Your garage door is much quieter than mine. I think I need to replace mine. How do I know which one is broken? Or I just replace all the rollers? Thank you.
Howdy, did you buy the sleeves separately from the nylon rollers? The sleeves cost about $1.50 each, and about 1/2 like them, and 1/2 says they don’t work. The sleeves, if they fit, eliminate metal to metal noise, but as someone said, they wear out faster than rollers. I’m do know in what way the sleeves don’t fit ? Is it because they’re too thick and a roller can’t be inserted or they too small for roller shafts. If too small, they can be cut horizontally.
Talked about that around 2.00 Short answer is yes you can. However, you CAN NOT take the bottom hinge off as the lifting cable, which is under a lot of tension, is attached to the hinge and it would cause a big mess of a problem
Clearly, the Dura-Lift rollers turn independent of the shafts. So you could have used the sleeves to isolate the door from the rollers, making it quieter.
Correct, but for some reason the sleeves I bought were way too tight for the rollers to fit. But yes, if you find the right sleeves they will quiet the sound down.
Dude your door is so quite. We just moved into a newly built home here n Florida and its so darn noisey. One of my daughters sleep above the garage and it vibrates the floor and is noisy as all heck. We're under warranty so I had the garage door company come out a few times and all they did was spray it and tell me that this is how storm garage doors are. They tried to tell me that my door is much quieter than some of my neighbors. I said which ones because those to the left and right of me, as well as to the front, are much more quieter. I thought about swapping them out with these rollers, but you mentioned that your new opener made a big difference. Do you have a before and after, comparing the two? Which opener did you go with? Our's has a Genie 2028 chain opener (on the ceiling) and I wonder if it's under powered, or a budget model, contributing to the noise.
Garage door openers cannot lift dry weight, say 300lbs, that's what the Springs are for (counter-balance). Unhook your current opener. Can you lift the door up and down with ease? is it still noisy? if Yes, then the crappy Genie chain drive opener is your problem. I recommend the Liftmaster 8500W side mount, (similar design to what the OP has), but the Liftmaster has a battery backup, LED light with a motion sensor that you can mount anywhere there's a wall plug, gentle open and close feature, Phone App, did i mention it's quiet, and a door lock(the loudest part of this system, Ting!) and you can easily install it yourself, no lie. So get rid of that Chain drive and install some wire shelves in that space above the door to keep you Christmas Decorations on. @;-D
@@slingbart705 Thank you for the reply. I just tried what you said and it's still noisy but not as bad actually. I would like a side mount but I'm not sure if I have enough room. I have about 16" from the wall to the frame of the garage door on both sides. Would that work?
Dura Lift makes 2 different 6200 series door rollers: These are the main differences between the 6200Z and 6200ZZ ball bearings are the seals and lubrication: - 6200Z (silver shaft) has a metal shield on one side only, allowing some lubricant to escape and reducing noise. 6200ZZ has shields on both sides, fully enclosing the bearing and preventing lubricant escape but also increasing noise. - 6200Z is open on one side and is lubricated with a light oil. 6200ZZ (anodized shaft) is completely sealed and requires no additional lubrication. The sealed design makes 6200ZZ more suitable for dirty or wet environments. - The shields and seals also affect speed. 6200Z can operate at higher speeds than 6200ZZ due to less friction from the open side. So in summary: - 6200Z is louder but can run faster due to open design. Requires lubrication. - 6200ZZ is quieter, less expensive and requires no maintenance.,slower operating speed due to full seals. - 6200ZZ is more expensive due to the additional seals.
What a mess. Never going to get that channel bent back to where it was. I would rather take each hinge off one at a time. For the bottom one I raise the door and take the vertical track off and then bring down the door just enough to change the roller.
@@DieselLegiance I already gave my easier, better way. If you're going to bend it open, don't open it so far and flatten the curve. Other videos show it can be done with much less deformity to the metal. Good day 👍
Liked the way you changed the rollers. Thinking about doing the same on my door. Have a question...it's an old door, the hinges have been lubricated a number of times with white lithium grease and now they are full of crud. Any suggestions about how to clean the hinges?
You didn't show how you replaced the upper wheel. It's not able to get to the vertical channel that you opened to replace the others. Did you open the horizontal channel to replace the top wheel?
Yes, I had to bend the channel out slightly and then bend it back. Sorry about that…
The roller sleeves are designed to be a little tight to reduce the metal to metal contact of the roller stem, as long as the roller wheel itself still rolls smoothly, and the door doesn’t bind, then it’s all good
which brand/model door opener are you using with your Wayne Dalton door? when i installed my Wayne Dalton doors 15 years ago i was going to run their iDrive openers, then they discontinued them. would like to know how you're doing it. thanks.
th-cam.com/video/zdRIRcV03pQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qt_tU4eF-OI_HE-R
@@DieselLegiance i didn't see it in your playlist. thanks!
Great job! Your garage door is much quieter than mine. I think I need to replace mine. How do I know which one is broken? Or I just replace all the rollers? Thank you.
It’s best to just replace them all. They are not that costly.
@@DieselLegiance Thank you. Will do.
bruh, this shit is quiet. my garage door sounds like kids banging on pans
Mine sounds like a machine gun. It's screw drive also though
Howdy, did you buy the sleeves separately from the nylon rollers? The sleeves cost about $1.50 each, and about 1/2 like them, and 1/2 says they don’t work.
The sleeves, if they fit, eliminate metal to metal noise, but as someone said, they wear out faster than rollers. I’m do know in what way the sleeves don’t fit ? Is it because they’re too thick and a roller can’t be inserted or they too small for roller shafts. If too small, they can be cut horizontally.
I ended up not using the sleeves as the ones I got did not fit that good, they fit too tight.
Can you not unscrew the hinges and replace the rollers
Talked about that around 2.00
Short answer is yes you can.
However, you CAN NOT take the bottom hinge off as the lifting cable, which is under a lot of tension, is attached to the hinge and it would cause a big mess of a problem
Thought I saw a little light at top of door travel adjustment perhaps
Clearly, the Dura-Lift rollers turn independent of the shafts. So you could have used the sleeves to isolate the door from the rollers, making it quieter.
Correct, but for some reason the sleeves I bought were way too tight for the rollers to fit. But yes, if you find the right sleeves they will quiet the sound down.
Great job-it would have been a bit better if you showed you bending back the channel-Thanks either way-Cheers
Not a bit better, a lot better.
Dude your door is so quite. We just moved into a newly built home here n Florida and its so darn noisey. One of my daughters sleep above the garage and it vibrates the floor and is noisy as all heck. We're under warranty so I had the garage door company come out a few times and all they did was spray it and tell me that this is how storm garage doors are. They tried to tell me that my door is much quieter than some of my neighbors. I said which ones because those to the left and right of me, as well as to the front, are much more quieter. I thought about swapping them out with these rollers, but you mentioned that your new opener made a big difference. Do you have a before and after, comparing the two? Which opener did you go with? Our's has a Genie 2028 chain opener (on the ceiling) and I wonder if it's under powered, or a budget model, contributing to the noise.
th-cam.com/video/zdRIRcV03pQ/w-d-xo.html
Garage door openers cannot lift dry weight, say 300lbs, that's what the Springs are for (counter-balance). Unhook your current opener. Can you lift the door up and down with ease? is it still noisy? if Yes, then the crappy Genie chain drive opener is your problem.
I recommend the Liftmaster 8500W side mount, (similar design to what the OP has), but the Liftmaster has a battery backup, LED light with a motion sensor that you can mount anywhere there's a wall plug, gentle open and close feature, Phone App, did i mention it's quiet, and a door lock(the loudest part of this system, Ting!) and you can easily install it yourself, no lie. So get rid of that Chain drive and install some wire shelves in that space above the door to keep you Christmas Decorations on. @;-D
@@slingbart705 Thank you for the reply. I just tried what you said and it's still noisy but not as bad actually. I would like a side mount but I'm not sure if I have enough room. I have about 16" from the wall to the frame of the garage door on both sides. Would that work?
It might be your garage chain. It’s either too tight or too loose
Dura Lift makes 2 different 6200 series door rollers:
These are the main differences between the 6200Z and 6200ZZ ball bearings are the seals and lubrication:
- 6200Z (silver shaft) has a metal shield on one side only, allowing some lubricant to escape and reducing noise. 6200ZZ has shields on both sides, fully enclosing the bearing and preventing lubricant escape but also increasing noise.
- 6200Z is open on one side and is lubricated with a light oil. 6200ZZ (anodized shaft) is completely sealed and requires no additional lubrication. The sealed design makes 6200ZZ more suitable for dirty or wet environments.
- The shields and seals also affect speed. 6200Z can operate at higher speeds than 6200ZZ due to less friction from the open side.
So in summary:
- 6200Z is louder but can run faster due to open design. Requires lubrication.
- 6200ZZ is quieter, less expensive and requires no maintenance.,slower operating speed due to full seals.
- 6200ZZ is more expensive due to the additional seals.
What a mess. Never going to get that channel bent back to where it was. I would rather take each hinge off one at a time. For the bottom one I raise the door and take the vertical track off and then bring down the door just enough to change the roller.
I did bend it back and it works fine but if you have a better, easier way then by all means do that. I was just offering an option. Good day 👍🏼
@@DieselLegiance I already gave my easier, better way. If you're going to bend it open, don't open it so far and flatten the curve. Other videos show it can be done with much less deformity to the metal. Good day 👍
Thats one quite ass garage door/opener
😂useless