Anyone Can Make A Sharpening Strop, Leather NOT required!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ค. 2024
- If you’re after an extremely sharp knife, machete or axe, chances are you know about stropping with an abrasive compound. Did you know they are really easy to make and that there are many different materials you can choose to construct a top notch strop from?
In this clip we share a lot of info to help you avoid the pitfalls with making a belt strop to suit how you want to use one. The two biggest points we like to share upfront is that leather is not your only choice and some synthetic webbing and tapes actually perform extremely well as a strop material.
***UPDATE*** Don't use the lite green Josco compound found in the clip. I found it is not nearly as good for hand stropping as the dark green compound. Veritas brand compound is a well known among woodworkers for hand stropping but their are other brands that are as good.
After the ‘Pro Tips For The Beginner Sharpener’ link we refer to in the clip? Here it is:
• Need your bushcraft ma...
The stropping section is at the end.
Keen on getting your hands on an extremely sharp machete and rugged sheath? Check out our store at:
northarmmacheteco.com.au/
A special thanks to Larry Koziol & Family from Colorado, USA for asking the question if synthetic tapes work as a strop material. I tested it and learnt something new! - บันเทิง
A bit late to the party i know, but the cotton tape with the zigzag grain is an HBT (herringbone twill) tape, or edging tape. The synthetic ribbon with the ridged lines across it is a "Grosgrain" ribbon.
Great vid..!
Thanks for another excellent video. Very informative and helpful.
3rd world safety standards:
1) Wear your worst flipflops, you wouldn't want to ruin your good ones.
2) Don't bring water to the work site, you want to be fatigued.
3) Don't repair the handle if it is damaged.
4) If you got 'em, smoke 'em, you don't need to concentrate on the job.
5) If possible, have a little kid do the work, they need the experience.
Some smarter folks use a forked stick to position/hold the material being chopped. Use a longer machete around thorn bushes and cactus. I don't think I have ever seen an 18 inch machete in the field.
Mate, It's not far from the truth. I think the lax approach to safety has a lot to do with their level of comfort using machetes. A little common sense never hurt anybody though. Boots, long shirt and trousers would be a minimum in my book.
You're also right about a stick. Gancho or Grabat are the two names I have come across but essentially, it's just a stick with a hook on the end. It's very handy when clearing.
As far as machete length in the field, westerners in general use shorter machetes. I know the Jamaican's prefer them short as well. The local Pacific Islanders around here prefer the extremely long latin machetes. On a whole, I would class the 18" latin (around that length) to be the most common size worldwide. Although I much prefer the 14" bolo, I do use a longer latin occasionally.
Thanks for the comment Sam.
All the best,
Ben
EXCELLENT!!!
THANK YOU FOR SHARING INFO, BROTHER!!
BEST WISHES TO YOUR FAMILY!
STAY HYDRATED!
Some great advice on making strops as well as the different techniques required between natural and synthetic materials.
+Larry Koziol
Cheers Larry. It was a good question you asked and I hope I answered it... Well I learnt something in the process.
I find naniwa stones are great for deburring, before stropping on a leather strop block. And or sometimes i use my small dark arkansas, and smooth flat river rock 👏
Seriously love your work mate!
Please keep the vids coming!
Champion mate! thanks for the complement and support!
all the best from OZ,
Ben
Thanks for the information and generosity in sharing your knowledge. I'll be trying your method out on my Parang. It can always do with a keener edge.
You're too kind Geoff!
Honestly, I'm just happy to pass on the good information that was passed to me over the years. I don't know why but sharpening secrets were closely guarded up until recently and sharpeners suffer seriously from 'one-itis'. If somebody says that there is only one way to do it or their method is the best, learn it but know there are many other good methods and you may already have the sharpening gear on hand. Besides, I have always believed that information needs to be shared. I'm just in a good position to do the pepsi/coke challenge.
I hope the methods help you out mate!
All the best,
Ben
Thanks, Mate, from San Diego,California I picked up some new, interesting and practical information.
G'Day Ron from Cali! I'm glad you found the information helpful and you learned something new. To be fair, all the info in these clips was info that was kindly shared with me over the years. I'm just sharing what I found to be practical.
Thanks for the comment mate.
All the best,
Ben
I'm really digging your videos, this was great, thanks.
+ce4130 cheers mate! Glad you liked it. I thought I was a tough topic to make interesting but I have had a lot of questions about strops. I thought it best to make a clip. Thanks for the kind words. Kind regards, Ben.
“...the best part of owning a machete shop...” great line 😂😂😂😂
Mate, every job has its perks!!
All the best from OZ Josh,
Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia 👍✌️.
Some great tips there, mate. I have to get myself a good strop. I have a lot of work to do to bring some old knives and also chisels back to acceptable sharpness. Cheers, Mark.
+biggles1024 Thanks Biggles! I remember years ago when I picked up my first strop, I thought it was a bit of a joke. Now that I understand how to use them properly, I'm never going back. I am a bit fussy with sharp tools...they are so much nicer to use when tuned up properly. Thanks for the kind words mate!
Great tutorial, Ben! I've been looking forward to this one and, like the Colorado gentleman, I have had difficulty in finding thin cotton/canvas tape. I'm really looking forward to a tutorial video on your PVC sheaths. Any current plans for one?
I made a radius strop for stropping karambit's & recurve knives, thanks for the video.
I'm glad it was helpful Seth. One of my more recent favourate strops is just a thin strip of softwood that I screwed to a post in my workshop. I dressed it very smooth with a hand plane and put a crown in the centre. It takes a stropping compound very easily and is set up for straight or recurve edges (often found on machetes). Cheap as chips and darn good results very fast. I should have done that years ago! Thanks for the comment.
All the best mate,
Ben
Thank you! From Miami, Florida to you, I appreciate it.
I'm glad you found the info helpful Tim!
Excellent stuff! Please keep doing more of these instructional videos for machete lovers :)
G'Day Charles and thank you for the complement! I'm really happy to pass on the information that was given to me and so far the whole experience has been a lot of fun. I'm busier than ever but will make more of an effort to film these clips!
Thanks and kind regards,
Ben.
Great video mate, nice topic, learnt heaps.
+SOUTHERN CROSS SURVIVAL cheers mate! Happy to share the info that was handed to me years ago!
just come across your channel and im hooked....just started stropping my knives (moras and oplinels)and I was looking for a cheaper alternative to leather...great video mate.
Cheers Daniel! Honestly I'm really happy to share the info and I am glad you found it helpful.
They are both very good knives (I'm sure you knew that already!) and will benefit from a strop but don't use the light green compound I used in this clip. It's better suited to power stropping. The darker green chrome is my favorite for hand stropping general use tools.
Tandy ( the leather company in USA) have a white compound that I really like but I still prefer the green chrome (Veritas brand) as it cuts a little faster to begin with.
Let me know how you go with your stropping mate!
Kind regards,
Ben
Cool video. Appreciated!
From Oldsmar, FL USA
Nice clip very informative thanks.
+Paul Smith
Cheers Paul! I thought this topic was going to be a bit boring and just for the sharpening fans but I have had a lot of comments so far. I'm glad it is well received.
Many tools have you, and neatly arrayed.
Greetings from New Zealand great video for beginners
not my photo to the left! using my wifes account. i'm 64, live in tennessee, and glad i found your videos on strops, waterproof pouches and the field sharping kit.i've learned more in less than half an hour watching you than I have in many many years of finding out on my own, especially the folding strop. every once in a great while I come across someone who actually knows what the hell they are talking about! I will be forever grateful to you for sharing this info.just re-handled a machete today.
Good morning Tennessee and thank you for the kind words! Honestly, I'm just very happy to share the info that was given to me over the years. I started out in the same situation learning from books, people that I came across and a whole lot of trial and error and yep, that took years. I lot of what I learned could have been condensed in to an afternoon had I found the right person.
No need to be grateful mate (but thank you, this msg just made my day!), I'm just paying it forward! I'm sure some local kid around your parts will be asking you all these questions soon enough!
Kind regards,
Ben in OZ.
+Machete Bushcraft Australia G'day mate was curious about your video, is there any sort of pastes and stuff that can be found at home to use I just cant get my knives shaving sharp any help would be appreciated.
Great Video mate keep up the good work
G'day mate, that is a good question. I tried a lot of alternatives to commercial abrasive compounds with limited success. Things that worked that are worth a try are: autosol, (chrome polishing paste) cream cleanser with the abrasive powder or even car paint cutting paste.
What sharpening gear are you using at the moment?
+Machete Bushcraft Australia a small stone with a coarse side and a smoother side and a few different grit sand paper from p240-p400-p600 can get an edge to slice paper but that's as far as possible without taking to much steel off.
You're on the right path. The scary sharp method is actually quite effective. Stropping with an abrasive compound just improves the edge you already have and a lot would say it's pointless stropping after 600grit paper but, I feel it can make a difference. Why not make a few strops with 1000,1200 and maybe even 1500 grit wet and dry sandpaper. The abrasive crushes down quickly but that is a benefit and I prefer to strop on this thin paper as it is not that robust.
hope that helps mate!
Kind regards,
Ben
Great tips.Thank you for South Florida USA
The natural webbing you are using looks a lot like upholstery webbing which could be a useful alternative as is 50mm/2” wide.
Great video, thankyou for sharing.
thanks for that mate. your video's are great keep it up
Nice one Bj! Thanks for the kind words mate!
When you were stopping your blade I noticed that you lift the blade. As a barber we just rolled blade on the spine the back edge of the knife or blade and that we were less likely to cut into the strop. It also produces a real flowing motion for stropping. I hope that helps somebody!
I could not agree more Laura. Back when I did shave, I used a straight razor for a short while. You soon get the hang of rolling the spine as you strop. Otherwise, it is really easy to damage the strop surface as well as damage the fragile edge.
One thing that may not be so obvious is the weight and size of the machete vs a light and small razor. It is relatively easy to thumb the razor in your hand to roll it on the spine. You can also roll your wrist but from what I researched (a long time ago) that method was not so common as it leads to RSI.
I can't say I found an easy method to roll on the spine with a machete. The handle is much larger and the weight/length had a big impact on it as well. I found it too hard to thumb the handle due to the size and the extra weight and length put a lot of extra strain on the wrist when doing the wrist roll method.
The lift on and off method in the clip is very effective and a good workaround when using a slack belt strop with a larger tool.
Thanks for the input Laura. It's nice to hear from some of the older noble trades! You all are the masters at straight razor shaving and I did pester a lot of barbers for info when I was much younger.
All the best,
Ben
The synthetic webbing you could ask a 'sail maker' I have seen that material in sails for boating, windsurfing along with shade sales too. You can usually get it cheap from them also since you need scraps form a sail maker it may only cost you a beer or two haha.
Thumbs up for the 'Beer Economy"! I'm a huge fan of it. I'm always happy to help everyone when ever I can but I smile ear to ear when someone drops off a case at the workshop!
Thanks for the tip Tony. It is one of the few manufactures that are left around these parts so I might pay them a visit next time I go to town.
Cheers mate,
Ben
Good video. Very informative and helpful. One thing about your videos, though. When you put a still picture or some text into the video, please remember that very few of us are speed readers. It's a real PIA having to back the video up and try to pause it at the right spot in able to read what you've put up for us to see.
Good point Garry! Will slow them down in future.
To be honest, I was copying the pace of other (seasoned/successful) youtubers. It's obvious I'm no expert when it comes to youtube videos and have zero camera training, so I looked for answers from others.
All the best mate,
Ben
Thank you
Great video
Hey great channel came over from farnorthbushcraft. Good info
Welcome Mate! Thanks for the support and complement S.D MM.
All the best,
Ben
It’s called grosgrain. Used to reinforce areas of clothing and such, to prevent the stitching from pulling through weaker materials. High stress points. You
Champion! Thanks mate.
Good video mate👍🏽
Cheers mate! I'm glad the info was helpful.
Nice thank you so much!
You're welcome. I hope you find it helpful.
I normally put the conpaud in a small lipstick, I will take the stick and just put the conpaud inside so every time I need it is just rotate it out a little bit at the time
That's a gold idea Luis! Keeping your compound clean is important and I can see the lipstick case would take care of that problem. I have just started casting mine into crayons with lanyards (much like a birthday candle). I'm often asked about tool stropping compounds and I usually cut off a piece from my block to post it to them as a tester. Being crayon sized, at least it's a life times worth of stropping for one knife.
Thanks for posting up your tip.
All the best mate,
Ben
Thank you very cool. I now have a great idea for gifts.
Nice one Robert, that's a great idea! Send me some pics when you're done.
I will do that. I do have one question. Will you show us how to make your retractable strop in a future video?
Actually, I was just thinking about that lats week. I don't know how i can shoot it without it coming across like an infomercial and a bit gimmick like.. It worked like a dream when I was younger though! Hey I like a challenge and I will get on to that again soon. Thanks for the reminder (and interest).
All the best,
Ben
I use an old belt made from synthetic material for stropping, it looked like leather but it's actually just thick cloth bunch together. Do you think it would work well for stropping, if any material can be used then I think almost any surface that can hold the compound can be use as a strop.
G'Day Aiman and that is also a good question. I'm not sure of the material other than it sounds like composite leather?? maybe. Did it smell a bit like leather when it was new? Some of the new vinyl belts on a canvas backing can look very convincingly like leather.
When it comes to stropping with a compound, the strop material choices are vast. The two things I look for is will it hold a compound and how much give it has.
If your belt is holding up well and takes a compound, it sounds like a perfectly serviceable strop to me.
When you say oil what type of oil and where to get it??
Very easy to understand information thank you...
Blessings
Lite machine oil, singer sewing machine oil or baby oil are cheap and commonly used. Neatsfoot oil is a fantastic natural oil conditioner/preservative (saddle or rural supply shop) It can get gummy if you too much over a long period of time. Just clean the strop and repeat. Honing oil is an option but there really is no need for the expense. The rest are all options but can be harsh on leather over time. Mineral turpentine is good if you want something that evaporates (the smelly solvent cleaner for oil based paints... I think its called something else in the US). Don't use natural plant based Gum Turpentine, it's not good to get it on your skin. Kerosene or diesel are other options but I would miss on them as they smell.
Great Video just getting set up to sharpen my Mora's, Ontario Machete, and Pocket Knives. Thanks a Heap.
First off awesome videos! Really enjoy the information. I have a question about synthetic material, I have a roll of conveyor belt material with a rubber texture on one side. Any idea if this would work ?
G'Day Robert, Thank you for the complement mate! That is a darn good question. I was about to write that I have my doubts if the compound would stick to rubber....but thought I should test it for us both before I comment. The rubber that I tested actually performed very well as a strop. I personally would not disregard over the strops that I use daily in the workshop. Honestly, that was good find Robert. It passed the loose arm hair test easily (That result is going to fluff some feathers from the keyboard sharpening experts!).
Now on to the more complicated side of the question, conveyor belts come in many different plastics and rubbers, as well as densities. Stropping compound also comes in many different flavours as carrier compounds will stick differently to different materials. So I'm not certain that the belt and compound you have will work. For example, I find the Tandy White compound hard and dry but it works fantastically on leather.
The rubber belt that I tested was 1.5mm thick ( 1/16") fibre reinforced Neoprene (from Clark Rubber for anyone in Australia) which feels like hard car tyre rubber. Being so thin, it has just a little give. I stretched it on a hard pine backer. I scuffed the rubber surface with #0000 steel wool so it would take a compound a little easier. I used Veritas Green Chrome (common wood carvers stropping compound). I build up a base layer then worked it flat with a small pad of smooth leather but a smooth block of wood would do the same. Don't use sandpaper to smooth your polishing block. It pushes grit into your stropping compound.
Less compound is more. Synthetic strops heat up fast so you will find the compound goes on thick.
keep that block or leather pad because you can re condition the surface quickly if it starts to build unevenly or you scratch the strop.
Give you edge a clean with some turps before you test it's shaprness. I have found strops with too much give or synthetic materials leave a tiny build up of stropping wax on the opposite side of the last stroke. On occasion I have hair tested an edge while stropping thinking it is blunt when it was just wax that has cooled on the edge making it feel blunt. Less compound on the strop is also a solution
I would not put a roughly sharpened tool on a rubber strop. I tested one of the rough edge knives on it first and noticed it was a bit harsh on the rubber.
How much give (the durometer?) the rubber has will have an effect. Personally I prefer less. Think firm saddle leather or hard cork when your testing out your strop.
I hope that info was helpful Robert.
All the best,
Ben
Thank you sir! I'll keep an eye out for new ideas in the States. Keep up the good work and shooting me a link where I could buy one of your machete would be fantastic!
Out here in town of ... Presque isle maine
Great informal video, aren't those materials called "Webbing"? The thicker one looks like MOD webbing from the British Army.
I’m looking to make a strop for my chisels. It would be a flat strop. Do you think old denim jean material would work?
G'day Brad. Absolutely, denim stretched tight over a block would make a great strop. An even simpler strop and my favourite for the workshop is just straight pine. If you dress it smooth and flat with a hand plane, that surface takes compound very easily. It has much less give (it still has a little) than leather and denim so you can use slightly more pressure when stropping. You need to hold your angle a little more accurately but it is very achievable.
Another advantage to straight and smooth pine is that you can use a drop or two of oil on the compound and it will make a slight sharpening slurry on the surface. Unlike leather, the oil takes a long while to soak in to the pine. Only a few drops are needed. Treat it like water stones. A slurry cuts faster than a dry strop. A dry strop cuts finer than a slurry.
I can't take credit for the idea as it's a very well known strop among wood carvers. It just fell out of favour on the web because it's hard to sell a woodworker a smooth block of timber that they can make themselves.
Denim stretched over a block would also make a good cleaning and deburing strop without any compound on it. Don't be tempted to glue it down as you're likely to get glue bleed through. You will end up with high and hard spots.
I hope that was helpful Brad.
All the best mate,
Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia I’ll definitely give it a try then. Thanks from Texas 👍🏼
*Cloth from old Jeans pants works great for strops and Currently i am using an old mouse pad for Stropping*
I'm with you on that one mate. There are many alternatives that are just as good as leather.
Thanks for sharing Arivinte.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Ya man exactly
my favorite is to use about ten inch lengths of a 2x4 or any board that has at least and inch thickness to it and cut cardboard the same size as the hand block you chose--and masking tape both ends. Then you can hold the board in your hand and strop the blade or you can sit it on something. Just take the jewelers compound and work it in to the cardboard and strop away. Cloth can flow too easy and round over and follow the edge of the blade. For the finishing your better using something a little more rigid like the cardboard.. Cardboard has invisible molecules of silica--agate within it so its a real good material to use and is everywhere..
I'm in your corner on this one Jeff. Compound with cardboard on a hard backer makes a great strop. I personally would be picking that over leather or fabric any day of the week.
I'm not that far off doing another youtube clip on the topic. I use a slack belt strop in the field because it packs down but I will always use a hard backed strop in the workshop. I have a few extra tips to share on really speeding up the stropping process that cost almost nothing.
Thanks for the comment mate.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia eagerly awaiting this video
will give this a shot today!! thanks for the tip!
I heard old denim jeans or any type of jean pants used as strop. What do you think of it what to use with it? I am new to sharpening. Please help for I have plenty of old jeans to use. Also please I want to know the whole care and maintenance etc.
For sure, denim works just fine as a strop. An easy way to look at it that a strop is just a carrier for an abrasive (with some exceptions). If your abrasive compound will stick to something, that surface now has a grit on it that will remove steel.
Things to keep in mind are how dirty are the jeans? Washing them is no promise of removing trapped grit. Tiny particles of sand or grit are actually quite large when compared to the the 5 - 0.5 micron stropping compound. I would add to that by saying it's not always going to be an issue. Stropping a 600grit or 1200grit edge with an abrasive charged strop will have a positive effect on an edge. You will speed up removing the wire edge and start polishing the micro points on the roughly sharpened knife. The grit trapped in a used pair of jeans is not really going to have that much of a negative effect.
Care and maintenance is easier than most make it out to be. Once you get the edge you want, how do you keep it there longer? The answer is very simple, keep your strop close and strop often. I would much rather spend 30 seconds stropping a knife when I feel it start to get dull than to use it until I need to go back to a coarse stone.
Hard flat strops are best for the workshop. Dressed pine is my favorite alternative to leather. Not everyone has a hand plane though. The alternative is very thick paper (card stock) stuck to something flat. Cardboard strops are very well known in the carving communities. No one talks about them as it's difficult to sell someone on a leather strop when a relatively free and effective alternative is available. That's just my 2c worth on it though.
I hope some of that was helpful mate.
All the best from OZ,
Ben
Wrap denim around a 12" length of 2" x 2" wood, and staple it as tight as possible.. Charge it with metal polish, (brasso or Autosol,, let it dry overnight, and you're good to go,, !!! You've got 3 sides to use, so mix up the type of polish, If you want like,,, if it's good enough for Rockstead, it's good enough for me,, lol...
Great video ..
+Howling Dingo cheers HD! Do you think one of these canvas strops and crayons will fit into your current competition idea? I originally was thinking a machete and sheath but I can't say that will meet the criteria.
+Machete Bushcraft Australia.. Hey mate...Machete and sheath would be cool. But for this competition idea,yip a tight fit.Shoot me a PM and we can band about some ideas.
Can you use leatherette for stroping?
In most cases, I'm sure you can. as long as it's firm and stiff enough, you should be able to get the compound to stick to it just fine. My two favourite stropping surfaces are very smooth pine or thin and hard sheet rubber (black nitrile rubber is similar to car tyre rubber). Both take stropping compound easily.
Hope that helps mate.
All the best,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia as long as the compound is sticking, its good? Got it! Thank you so much!
what do u call the green thing that u put yo ur strop? and where i can buy that
It's called stropping compound but sometimes people call it buffing compound or polishing compound. You can buy these at places that sell fine wood working and carving tools. online would be your best bet. The brand I like is Veritas as I find it is suited to hand power stropping. Some of the other brands I have tested really suit a power buff/strop. There are lots of alternatives though. Autosol car chrome polish has been mentioned here a few times.
So if you could use anything these wax or whatever what would it be and why I want you to know that I'm grateful for you getting in touch with me and helping me through this I'm on type of thing where I want to be able to make one for myself and collect a whole bunch of old belts and I want to be able to sell them at the local flea market or gun show hope is greatly appreciated I'm on a fixed income and usually homeless
Sure Clay, I'm happy to help work through this with you.
I have a lot of different types of strops but my favourite leather combination is
Veritas Green Chrome with a bees wax base. I prefer the smooth side
of very firm leather as I like to use more pressure to start, and
lighten up the stropping action as I finish. The flesh side (suede
side) is also just as good but I find with a little too much
pressure, you begin to lift the fibres. The harder and flatter the
strop, the more pressure you can get away with.
Some believe that you only use feather pressure to strop but that is just a hang up from
people learning to strop straight razors or the ones that learned to
strop on softer leathers. You can use a little more pressure on a
hard strop and lighten your strokes towards the end of the process.
I like bees wax because it's easy to melt with hand friction using your palm or a scrap of
leather to re flatten the wax and/or compound on top. Scratching the
compound is common and a creases in a fabric backpack strop can be
quickly removed with friction.... I guess it smells nice too!
I really like using 2 drops of oil when the edge needs a lot of stropping. It creates a
loose slurry and has much the same effect as fresh slurry on a fine
japanese waterstone (at a fraction of the cost). As the oil gets
drawn into the leather, the compound begins to stiffen and glosses
over which slows the cutting action down for a finer finish.
The oil techniques is very helpful when charging up a new strop. It spreads a lot of
compound very easily. Have a play with it and find what works for
you. Less oil is more to be honest. Just a drop or two. All the
compounds I have tested over the years reacted well to oil. I'm
guessing their would be some that don't.
I have found that above combo to be very time efficient. Re-stropping a slightly dull edge
takes 30 seconds but the first strop just after a sharpening stone
takes a little longer. 1 to 5mins max.
The Veritas compound has two abrasives in it. One is Aluminium Oxide and is larger but
very quickly crushes down to smaller particles. The next is chromium
oxide in a fine grit. It is part of the reason it is a quick process.
I have been told Flexcut Gold is about the same.
I really like the fact that you're looking at recycling belts to be honest. One of the
barriers for you can also be an advantage, and that is consistency in
your product. Being recycled, you're going to come across a lot of
different colours, thicknesses and textures in the leather. To get
maximum use from the raw materials, your strop line up can end up
looking random. I would be looking at a simple brand to stitch your
whole product line together. Minimal waste also becomes part of your
story that you can share. Brass can used as a hot branding stamp on
the timber. It can be carved with simple metal carving chisels and a
mallet. Keep it simple. It's a tricky process carving that small and
don't forget to carve it as a reverse image!
I don't like the hard sell technique. Hand made comes with a story and built in character.
It is your story so learn to share that to potential customers as well.
I would rather share good information and help someone. The right
customers will find you and you get to keep your integrity in the
process.
Can you carve Clay? A really good conversation starter would be to show the results of your
product. I would walk up and have a chat to a gentleman carving
something at a show. Knives need regular stropping so you get to show
your product in action. You do not need to be a Picasso, just enjoy
what your doing. Carving dice could make simple gifts to some of
the polite blokes who stopped for a chat. Little animals for kids.
The old man wood spirit is always a lovely piece. It's is a lovely
thing to share to be honest but only give your carvings away if it's
already part of who you are. Integrity takes a lifetime to gain and a
second to loose.
Don't get into the habit of stropping others peoples knives at a show.
It's a potential liability issue and more often than not, they will need
a stone sharpening before a strop anyway.
A roughly sharpened edge can still shave hair and slice paper but a properly stropped
edge can also push cut thin paper using a single part on the edge.
One tip, don't let people shave arm hair. Spreading infection is unlikely but it just not
hygienic. Some rubbing/ surgical alcohol is a decent disinfectant. The
local farm vets around here just use methylated spirits. The bald
patch on your arm should speak volumes but find something else like
phone book paper (paper does have tiny amounts of clay in it so it
will slowly dull an edge) to show a push cut on a single part of the
edge vs a slicing cut. Horse hair gets expensive. Paracord or sisal
rope push cutting on a timber block can show sharpness.
It sounds like you're starting off on a good adventure to me Clay, and I hope some of that info was helpful.
All the best mate,
Ben
You can buy used leather belts at thrift shops, often for a buck or so.
hey mate iam from canberra where can i get stroping compound block from ?
G'Day mate. Don't get the light green Josco brand one I used in this clip (bunnings). It's better for power stropping. I still like The dark green one I like I picked up from Carbratec about 20yrs ago. I think the brand was Veritas. Online woodworking stores or google woodworking tool shops in Canberra would be a place to start.
Hope this helps mate!
I've made paddle strops with denim or boxboard glued to a piece of pine, then slathered with compound, or, failing that, baking soda as a poor man's alternative. But now I think I'll keep an eye out for thin sheets of cork board.
For a readily available, natural material to make a strop - denim! Blue jeans - who doesn't own a pair! Instead of throwing worn jeans out, use the material! I've even stropped a knife to shaving sharp while wearing the jeans when camping here in Canada (no compound!). I'd guess you'd have to be pretty brave to strop a machete this way, but denim works really well to make a stropping strap and you'll likely have a never ending supply of material.
Nice one Byron! Nothing more comfortable than an old pair of jeans for camping. BTW that is a good tip. It's a built in linen strop. When I was an apprentice, we were taught to strop small knives, chisels and plane blades on the palm of your hand. You are right that it gets a little challenging to strop a machete on your thigh but I would not hesitate in stropping a knife there.
Actually, I did catch a clip (I think it was Survival Lilly) where she scraped up some fluff off her jeans with a knife to get some dry tinder. I though that could save someone from a cold night if all else failed.
Thanks for the post and tip mate! I hope you're enjoying the summer over there at the moment.
Kind regards,
Ben.
Can you use bee's wax with or on leather?
Can I use a old leather work belt should I wash is in me laundry to clean it b4 I create my strop, also how do I keep it attached the block of wood or steel... I'm from maine USA.... thank you
Blessings
G'day Clay, they are all good questions. Yes you can use bee's wax on leather before a compound. Waxes and oils are useful for a few reasons. They can help a compound to stick, soften a compound as well as condition and somewhat fill small voids in a strop.
Bee's wax tends to be one of the softer waxes with a lower melt temp. Kids crayons are one of the harder waxes with a high melt temp. You can pick your wax to suit your climate. If you like a slick surface, pick a harder wax. If you like it with a little more friction, pick a softer wax. Soy candle wax is harder than regular paraffin wax.
You don't always need to use a wax or oil. Sometimes, the compound is just right. Sometimes the strop dries out the compound over time.
lite machine oil or neatsfoot oil are great at really softening the compound into a slurry. You only need a few drops. It's one of my favourite tips to share. It is a well known tip among wood carvers. Some recommend before treatment, some after. Both work.
Now old belts on a hard backer. Sure, it will make a good strop. Keep in mind grit or dirt that has worked it's way into the belts surface over the years can show through stropping compound.... I reckon that is unlikely though. If it was a straight razor strop, I would give it a miss. Most other tools should be all good.
Fixing the belt in place, you can stretch it really taught and pin it. Regular contact adheasive is a better choice to be honest and probably the most common way. It's the one that you apply to both surfaces, wait till it's touch dry then with pressure, bring both surfaces togeather.
I hope that was helpful Clay.
All the best,
Ben
Oh, I should add to the first message, don't wash the belt. It will just shrink and harden up. You can use saddle soap but unless it's really grubby, just use it as is. If it's really stiff and hard, you can use neatsfoot oil to soften it back up. The contact adhesive won't stick very well to the leather any more with oil in it.
For machete stropping, how would you prepare a old leather belt as a strop. Does it also need the bees wax and the compound?
If its relatively clean, flat and not hard, you can use it as is. The bees wax can help flatten out the suede side (if you're using that) before you put your stropping compound.
Old used belts can sometime have taken on their own convex/concave shape. The bees wax can help you remold and correct that.
The compound will work with or without the wax.
I would be only using wax on leather if I needed to correct the strop surface.
Hope that helps mate.
Oh I should add, saddle soap is used to clean dirty leather. A little Neatsfoot oil goes a long way to softening the leather if it's really hard.. It does make the strop feel a little greasy though (I like it but it's not for everyone).
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia thank you. I will try calling your bussiness today. Cheers
So 12" you say is good, but 20" strop is best for what type of knife?....
What should I use to clean the strop and how will I kno when it's time to clean it....
Blessings
The 20" timber strop I use is for machetes (blade length is 14-18"). You can still strop a long blade on a short strop. You just do each area of the blade in sections.
If you have a build up of compound on the edges, scratches from stropping tips, its uneven, dried out and flaked you can use friction to melt and move the compound or use an oil.
If its a gummy sticky mess (that takes a while with neatsfoot oil), you can use one of the oils to loosen everything and a rag to wipe most of it off. I have found it does not happen with mineral oil.
The use of oil is minimal. You don't want to end up with a soggy leather sponge full of oil.
Coolabah: The seeds are powdered and made into cakes which are baked and eaten. Sap from the roots is used as an emergency source of water for travelers through dry regions
I'm thinking using neets oil...
Could I use faux leather? It wasn't very clear wether I could or not
That is a good question Monkey Shock. I can't say I have ever tested it to be honest. I can't see why some of it would be ok. There is composite leather ( I think it's called composite leather) where it's shredded off cuts that are glued togeather. Think fine chipboard or cork. I reckon that would work just fine if it was firm enough. The plastic leather, I think it might be a little too soft to make a strop from and I think you would have a hard time getting the stropping compound to stick. It's worthy of a test mate. If you're good at holding your angles, one of my new favourite strops is just a strip of dressed pine that a screwed to a post in the workshop. Super quick results and darn sharp tools. pine takes a stropping compound easily.
One of the advantages of using leather or cork is that it has some give. You don't nee to be as perfect with your angles.
Hope that helps mate.
All the best,
Ben
Synthetic materials shown at 4 mins 26 secoonds Mooredale55 is right about the one one the viewers right, it's polyester: the one in the middle is plain old nylon. I sold the stuff for years.
Would the non sticky side of tape work?
EDIT: I'm fine I just used my sofa lol
Mate I can't say I have ever come across a sofa strop before but if it works, knock yourself out! Most masking tapes work just fine with compound. If the compound sticks to the non tacky side, it will work just fine. Wood carvers swear by compound on cardboard (single wall). That might be an easy alternative for you.
I do have an unrelated question. Why do most machetes have a blunt point, by that I mean they lack a point that will be good for piercing or stabbing?
I get the best questions from you all the comment sections! That is a darn good one Lee and I can only offer my opinion (not fact) on it. I have my own suspicions but I feel the most important reason is cost. Proper sharpening of tools is not easy or cheap to do in a production line. To be fair, almost all the factory edges on knives and machetes I have come across could be drastically improved with a bit of care.... but I'm old school fussy about it.
Most older factories still use a lot of unskilled labour but the sharpening process still needs a fair bit of talent and patience. The tip is most prone to being burnt so they probably opted to skip it all together (including finishing off the sharpening process).
The cost of packaging and shipping is much cheaper with blunt tipped and dull machetes. Most of the agricultural style machetes are bulk shipped in cardboard boxes. You could not do that if you had a nice edge and a pointy tip.
More recently I think Product Liability would have an impact on the sharpness levels these businesses are comfortable putting on their tools.
The only two practical reasons for blunt tip machetes is that often they are used for grubbing work (chipping roots in the dirt or digging) and safety.
At the end of the day, most machetes (even the more expensive ones) will benefit greatly with a proper grind and sharpen. I don't see it as a bad thing that they are blunt from the factory as It is something we can do ourselves and save on the initial cost of the tool....
I hope that ramble added some clarity mate!
All the best lee,
Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia you did answer it well. Thank you
Hi. In my country there is no Compund, what can I use instead of Compund?
That's a good question Emad. It's not something that I personally have done much testing with but I have received a few suggestions from people over the years.
Car polish with a fine cutting compound is one common suggestion. People who respray cars will have this in big bottles. Autosol chrome polish is another that comes up.
Where are you from? Surely there would be some there under a different name.
Barbers who use the old fashioned straight razors would have access to some very fine stropping compound. People who make jewelry use compound, especially the ones who polish stones.
I hope some of that info is helpful mate.
I am Iranian. Do you recommend using metal polishing?
@@emadshakoorianfard7268 Yes, metal polishing compound works just fine. Keep in mind, some of them work much better with power stropping. The woodworkers style compound suits hand stropping.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia
Thank you for your attention
@@emadshakoorianfard7268
Maybe you are able to get some chromium oxyde colour for artists. Make sure to get oil colour, like mixed with linseed oil, and don't use high gloss colour. You have to get "blunt" or matte colour.
The pigment in this colour is the same as in the blocks of green stroping compound, industry standard are particles of about 0,7 micron, what means 30.000 grit, a real polishing compound.
I stropped all my blades with linseed oil colour until I found a source that sold me the pigment powder - 100g for a friction of the price of compound.
I apply fingertips of the powder with a few drops of linseed oil on my leather strop, and it works wonderful.
So I did with the oil colour. Apply some on a leather strop, or an old leather belt, until the strop is green. Let the oil suck into the leather and you are good to go.
Can you use denim as a stropping material?
Sure, you can use denim as a strop. Sometimes it might be too stretchy and curl at the edges a little to much if you make a belt strop. You will need to test your denim to see how it performs. New denim tends to be a lot stiffer and even more so if you shrink it in the wash first. You can use it as is to clean an edge and manage the wire. You can definitely use it with an abrasive compound.
I would say that denim strop would perform in much the same way as the canvas or linnen strops they used on the back of leather straight razor strops.
It was not out of the ordinary to strop a knife on your thigh while seated as you are stretching a nice flat area of fabric. A very rough wire edge can be a bit harsh on your trousers though.
One thing to keep in mind is trapped dirt in old denim or new stone washed denim. The trapped abrasives may scratch up you edge if your up to a super fine polish. For most general use knives, I doubt this would be an issue.
Is there a link for the material you were using?
G'Day Jon. No I'm sorry, I don't remember ever putting a link to the different materials. It's called 'Binding Tape' and it's commonly used in the upholstery industry. The synthetic style would be very easy to come across but the all cotton type is not that common any more.
I would be looking at shops that make custom tarps, car interiors, sail makers etc.
I hope that helps Jon.
All the best,
Ben
ok thanks
Im too lazy for all that .. I'll buy one off you if you ever ship them
If its synthetic it probably wont soak wax into the fibres the way natural fibres would. The wax might be sitting more on the surface and grabbing the knife. Just a theory.
I think you're on the money with that point Steve. It does perform like an overloaded strop so maybe it's a case of less compound is more? It is still a viable strop option as it's much lighter and inherently waterproof. I'm sticking with the natural fibres though as I'm stubbornly old school. If I was an ultralite camper, the synthetic tape would be up there though. Thanks for the input mate.
All the best,
Ben.
I have also seen paracord used as a strop in a YT video
Thanks for bringing that point up Lee. I can't be the only one that has used a rope or cord strop before. It's darn effective for the whole edge but the very point of a knife is tricky to strop on a thin cord. It's a good compromise for the ultra light campers though.
All the best Lee,
Ben
sorry didnt catch what the block was that you used to make a mini strop
Was it the little green crayons that I rubbed onto the strop? If so, just think of it as abrasives in a hard wax. Just like with sandpaper or sharpening stones, you can pick a stropping compound that has a particular sized grit. When you rub the stropping compound on the strop, you're effectively turning the strop into a very fine abrasive surface.
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia ok cool man thank you so much😁👍
What materials were the synthetic strops made of? I'm trying to find a similar or identical to the ones used in the video.
G'Day Taylor. I had some people comment a long time ago saying that they both (the green canvas and white synthetic) were called binding tape. The third (light green) was just woven ribbon. You should be able to find that easy enough. Try and get it without the reinforced edges. It's no big deal if your stuck with it though. If you wander down to a big linen/sewing craft store they should have a tape and webbing section.
I hope that helps.
All the best,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Thank you very much friend Ben! I heard you speaking of the binding tape but I didn't put two and two together my apologies. Thanks for taking the time to respond to my inquiry. I had been working on making a strop out of the 2 of the 8 canvas belts I have. With normal was and a blow-dryer though the dry died after my 4th coat of wax on each side so that was a bother.
I really appreciate your videos very helpful and the way you explain things like stropping, doesn't make it sound like if I mess up you I am obligated to purchase a hazmat suit and burry the machete in between a mourning creature and an ancient elm tree to lift and curse from the the tool that I had so maliciously defiled by slipping. Thanks again for your fine work friend.
Oh Taylor, I got a good laugh from that! I think I know where you're coming from. I was lucky enough to learn about sharpening before I went to the internet for answers (it was a long time ago). I don't know what it is about sharpening that brings out the 'experts' but there are some who want to make it appear complicated and unachievable. Hand sharpening (and stropping) is a very achievable skill and it takes a lot less time to grasp that most realize.
I think the trickiest part of learning about sharpening on the internet is finding information on the whole mismatched sharpening system you already have. There are any number of ways to get a sharp tool and it mostly comes down to the order of your abrasives. I'm also a firm believer in trying the sharpening equipment you already have. I think people jump from system to system thinking the last did not work when they more than likely will do a great job.
Not that I use the Scary Sharp method with wet & dry paper, but I think it is one of the easiest methods to use when teaching sharpening. It's affordable and everyone can match the abrasives as they follow along. Once you know what to expect, adventuring out from there is much easier.
We have been working with very sharp tools for a long time now. We did not have the advantage of great quality and cheap abrasives back then either.
Just a quick thought about your canvas belt strops, you may not need to totally soak them with wax. The goal of the wax is to create a smooth-ish surface for the compound and add a little friction. Maybe do a coat or two on top and see if you can flatten it out with the palm of your hand.
The reason I soaked the binding tape is that they are so thin. It added to the stiffness. I can imagine a well soaked canvas belt could work quite well for a workshop strop though. It would be quite stiff.
All the best from OZ mate,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Awesome thanks for your help Ben! All the best from the US of A: Utah
@@MacheteBushcraftAustraliaAnd would just stropping with the wax be fine for now since I do not have the compound? Of course it wont be the same, but will it do anything without the wax for the time being?
Yep I get that I won't be stroping anyone's blade, strictly for sale, my idea is to attach strop to some sort of wooden block say 2"x2"x12" or whatever the with works out to be... I'd like more information video on tour block strop or whatever you called it is the real wide one ... possibly a more in-depth video in the strops attached on wood basically talk about your go to strops like that...
Sorry I'm wordy lol...
Blessings
You're all good mate! I'm actually planning on doing another strop video in the near future. I will make sure to include some of this info for you.
2" is a nice width but don't disregard the thinner belts in your search. The most common waist belts I come across are in the 1 1/4" size. My favourite timber strops that I use to put the final edge on machetes are only 3/4" wide and about 20" long. I find most people are comfortable doing an 'X' pattern while they strop a knife, bowie or machete. The wide strops suite plane blades and big chisels but you can even strop them on an angle.
For big knives and smaller, 12" is a good length.
Does a stropping compound have to be used? Would meetal polish in a tube work? Btw this is the best strop video i've seen to date
Mate thanks for the complement! Sure, metal polish can work but to be honest, I find they work better when power stropping (with a grinder/buff). I'm not sure but it could have something to do with the concentration of grit vs carrier?
I have had people commenting over the years that Autosol chrome polish is great. Some others have commented that car paint polish with a mild cutting action also works.
If you want to do some quick tests, rub some on the brown side of cardboard (cereal box style) and strop on that. If you see black streaks starting to form on top of the compound, you know it's removing steel.
I do like the Veritas Green Chrome compound as its a dual grit compound that suits hand stropping. I have been told that Flexcut Gold is as good.
I hope that is helpful Heavy.
All the best from OZ mate,
Ben
@@MacheteBushcraftAustralia Thanks for the reply! I'll get into it and try a few things. Great Info
Masking tape works pretty well.
Hey I like that. I remember asking about stropping when I was a kid and mentioned making a leather strop. The old timer just laughed at me and showed me an old piece of wooden dowel with a piece of thin cardboard taped to it. I can see masking tape working well.
Thanks for sharing the tip Kent.
All the best,
Ben
Did you say head chopping edge? lol
But yes true who needs a razorpit when you have an armpit or an old leather strop!
hahaha.. I certainly hope I did not say that! I'm sure it was 'hair popping edge'. I'm a fan of stropping tools ,that's for sure. Thanks for the comment mate!
All the best,
Ben
As someone who has worked with textiles for years the fabric on the viewers right at 4 mins 25 secs looks like polyester.
Thanks Moorvale55! I was hoping someone was going to recognise some of the materials.
Cheers!
All the best,
Ben
Realistically how big is the machete wielding community in Oz or the western world?
That is a good question. The most educated guess is that it would be very small, Wayne.
In a lot of cases, we use power tools, machinery or we will pay someone else to do it before we picked up a hand tool. The 'machete' category shrinks even more when you remove the bush knives or long and thick 'survival' style knives, and just focus on the more work styled, thin machetes.
The other aspect is the lack of inherited knowledge with using and maintaining a machete. Both are fairly easy to pick up, but motivation for old hand tools in the west is less common these days.
Machetes for some work environments can be remarkably efficient, but you will find this more in the tropical regions or very specific industries. Syntropics is one example.
Most farmers in the warmer environments will still have a few of them for specific tasks.
There is a small group of bushcrafters who are finding them quite indispensable as a general purpose tool. I would argue the biggest overlooked advantage to an agricultural machete being used in a bush craft setting is it's cost. Being so affordable, beginners are more likely to have a go and use the tool as intended. They are not as precious about a 10 quid machete as they would be with a $200 bush craft knife or axe. This builds knowledge and skills that translates to other hand tools and crafts.
Just my 2c worth, Wayne.
All the best from OZ, mate.
Ben
Would an old pair of 100% cotton jeans work.
Good question DA! Yes, cotton/linen/denim will make a good strop material but your problem will be how you plan to use it. Most of the fabric strops I have come across have been made from webbing so the edges are woven back into the fabric. When you cut up the trousers, they will fray and you will need to deal with that some how. You can stitch/hem the edges but you will have a hard and raised edges. You can manipulate the strop so it has a raised centre but I bet the edges will be too high. maybe if you're neat enough use an iron set hem tape and fold the wide edges back under making a full double layer. That could stiffen the strop somewhat. I have not tested it but its a possibility. Personally, I would be keeping an eye out for some webbing. Charity Shops often have fabric belts for next to nothing. Women's dress belts are far less likely to be contaminated with beach sand or grinder dust etc.
I hope that helps mate.
All the best,
Ben
I also plan on using the green compound as well to help with the stroping process
Hey I like that DA. Just a thought on glue (contact adhesive), If you can get away with just stretching the cotton and stapling it rather than gluing, it will be of some benefit (small timber battens in rebate would look tidy). I have glued denim to leather as a strop before with good results but the glue can bleed through the fabric before it dries creating high and hard spots. If you're a fan of using oil (1 or 2 small drops is plenty) on your strop with the compound, this can help break the glue bond.
Put the tiniest of crowns on your block's centre line before you stretch the cotton. When you bend fabric over a corner or a big radius, it needs to bunch up some. You wont notice this until you start to build up your wax and compound. you will see a the outside edges contact the knifes edge before the centre does. Using one drop of oil helps move the compound around.
I'm planning on shooting another strop video in the near future but I feel the main deciding factor on picking a strop material is how much give you want. For example, a mouse pad with wet and dry sand paper has a whole lot of give. Hardwood, cardboard, MDF and straight pine gives very little. denim, rubber, cork, leather etc all fall in the middle. I would suspect stretched cotton that you want to wax on softwood would give a nice firm strop.
Oh and the Veritas green compound has two grits in it so it makes the hand stropping process go much faster. I have been told the Flexicut Gold is much the same but I have much less experience using it.
I hope it all works out mate.
Ben
Machete Bushcraft Australia than you Ben you have been very helpful and I was going to use glue but you make a good point about it bleeding through wouldn't want some parts flexible and others hard as a rock so to speak. Can't wait to see more videos and have a good one
I know that no need for a hair dryer to brother.
Oh mate, I keep forgetting that I said that. I still have a good laugh whenever someone comments on the hair dryer!
I use newspaper for stropping.
Hey that's interesting! What is your method? I know an oldtimer that would lay the newspaper tight over his leg while sitting and strop a little carving knife. I have not tried it yet.
Thanks for sharing the info PADA
It works perfectly for me. I just lay it flat on my table and start stropping each side multiple times. I heard it also works on copy paper too.
Today I used some Japanese newspapers I had that were left over. Worked fine with me.
Nice one mate and thanks for sharing the info. I will have a play with it!
+Machete Bushcraft Australia sure! hope you have fun with it.
slack belts are for shaving razors i would take your advice but still adhere it to wood, must be hard back for knife , for me
1:55
You can use all kinds of silly things, but if you want to have the best edge, only a very, very few of those things are worth spit. It's really pretty simple. The leather is not what does the work on your knife. The stropping compound is, and all leather does is hold the this compound.
It's the different grits and even consistencies, of stropping compound that make it work far better than any of the things you mention. Far, far, far better. Try using any of those things, and then look at the edge and the bevel under a microscope. Then use a quality leather and wood strop with both green and red compound, and look at that edge and bevel under a microscope.
In every case I've seen, and I've seen a lot of them, the leather and stropping compound does a far better job.
It's isn't just about getting something sharp. You can do that on a concrete block. It's about creating a bevel and an edge that are as perfect as they can be. If you don't actually use a knife much, it doesn't matter, but if you have a knife you love, and use a lot, thus strop a lot, and sharpen very often at all, you will take a lot of years off the life of the knife by not sharpening it properly, and by not stropping it properly.
You don't have to change the geometry much at all to find the knife you loved is no longer the one you now have.
Yes, you can strop a knife will all sorts of things, but if you want to do it right, if you care about you knife, you'll use a quality strop with the right kind of leather, and you'll use the right stropping compound when you do. This is primarily green and red, but sometimes a couple of other colors, as wel, depending on the steel, and on the beven and the edge itself looks like after you've sharpened it a swell as can be done.
Thanks for sharing mate! It is very easy to get fixed on 'only one system works' when it comes to sharpening. It is steeped in tradition and has become a whole hobby in its own right. For some, its not just about tool maintenance any more. I know when I first started out, I thought the one method that worked must be the only way but it is far from the truth. Many methods will get you a hair popping edge.
On that note, My favourite workshop strop at the moment is just a strip of neatly dressed pine that I screwed to a post (with a slight crown in the centre). It takes a compound well but you need to be a little strict with your angles. That is the quickest and most convienent hand strop I have used to date. Darn good edge from it as well.
I knew this clip would ruffle a few feathers. I still appreciate the input from another sharpener James.
All the best,
Ben
Get a block of wood or anything sturdy,,, ,,now get ductape and lay layers down on the wood and make a strop,,, easy 👍
Yep that works just fine. I think you will find a single layer of tape is not so spongy and you can get gaffer tape that has a matt (not glossy) finish that works even better.
a good TH-cam chanal is wranglestar
Thumbs up on that one. I have been following him for a while now and always like his tips. He comes across as a decent bloke as well.
Yes i have been following his chanal for about a year a lot of good info on axes and power saws
you are over convexing your edge and rolling by slack stropping a knife, used for shaving razors of yesteryear
To be honest, you're not alone with that opinion gunny and I did think the same as you many years ago. Sharpening is full of confliction techniques and passionate opinions. At the end of the day, and appropriately sharpened tool is the outcome. My take on it now is that the vast majority of the different systems can work quite well and everyone gets to pick and choose what works for them.
I don't know if I can respond in quick manner but I will have a crack! I know I can talk under water at times.
One of the main differences between jig sharpening and free hand is angle constancy. It does not matter how well practised you are, free hand sharpeners will end up slightly convexing an edge while sharpening and stropping. The exception to this is zero grind scandi's where all the angle control comes from the very flat stones and very flat bevel. The short of it is that a convexed edge is at no real disadvantage during use during use and can be just as sharp.
Belt strops are now more commonly known as straight razor strops but that was never their sole intended use. It was just a convenient way to pack a long strop. I suspect the name came about when bushmen would just use their leather waist belt to strop a knife. Ridged paddle strops can also be used for stropping a straight razor but this is not so commonly known any more.
I personally prefer this method for tools that need to be sharpened out in the field as the gear needed tends to be small, light and inexpensive. Another advantage is that same gear can be used to sharpen an axe or knife as well. If I was using a zero scandi, I would probably rethink it but It is one of the reasons I don't use them.
Slack belt stropping will not suit all users or tools but is is a very viable option. I think you would be surprised at how effective it can be.
Thanks for the input gunny!
All the best mate,
Ben
L
a shirt-and-tie style neck-tie knot for straps might work okay-ish if time or options are limited 🪒👔👍
Great tutorial, Ben! I've been looking forward to this one and, like the Colorado gentleman, I have had difficulty in finding thin cotton/canvas tape. I'm really looking forward to a tutorial video on your PVC sheaths. Any current plans for one?
+Grant Coleman Mate I'm glad you found it helpful. Thin cotton webbing is getting hard to find and I'm glad the synthetic alternative popped up. I did not talk too much about the white webbing but it worked very well. It was just ripped off the bottom of some bed slats I was recovering from a bed frame. That made a great strop. The PVC sheath tute is on the list and it will happen.
Thanks for the kind words mate!
All the best,
Ben.