Ummmmm...... maybe should find another line of work. But then, again... the bgg quick connects made their job a lot easier. As I would not call these quick disconnects.
Just an FYI from an old mechanic, a dab of silicone grease on the metal male tube that sides in the o ring will save alot of time and headache when reassembling. This will also help with future removal efforts. Great info in the video by the way. Straight and to the point. Tx.
THANK YOU!!!! I have been looking for a simple description of how to deal with these quick-disconnect connectors! Not so quick when you have to spend an hour on TH-cam trying to find a video that tells you how they work.
This video helped me out tremedously. I replaced the ends on the main vacuum line of my 2001 F150 5.4 ltr and in doing so bumped the top heater hose enough to break the plastic quick connect. The clip end was still on the heater core pipe and I could not get it off. This video allowed me to get the broken piece off and replace the heater hose. The trick is to push the quick connect to the firewall, then push down internal tabs of the clip while easing the black plastic quick connect away from the firewall. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!!
Thanks for the help, I ended up having to disconnect one side of the clip first from inner and outer part and the then other side and pull and twist out. This video/comment did help! 👍🏽
Excuse me Mr. . Thank you so much , I did the same thing, but the tool. Struggled for 2 hours . Watched your video ,and in seconds I was finished, you are the man. Thank you
MrRchitty ... your thorough explanation did the trick. I also bought the 'special' tool but found it ineffective in removing these bad boys. I had one bad heater hose. While removing the end next to the passenger compartment the second one snapped. I barely touched it BUT...not necessarily a bad thing as it probably makes more sense to replace both so I am not stranded somewhere. CHEERS and THANK YOU.
@@MrRChitty The bit of your trick that really pushed the success for my 2006 Ford F150 LTD 4x4 Triton) replacement was the one handed bit at the end. I did exactly what you showed by cutting the hose off (throwing it away and replacing) and then I had basically the unit and pipe coming out of the passenger compartment. There is NO room for two hands in this meager, poorly lit area. Thanks again, Jim
Adding to the kudos! The old T quick connect on my Chevy Suburban snapped off inside the hose, my quick connect T's off back to the 2nd heater core in the rear. Your video saved us after a long while of messing with it. But my two teenage sons now know the joys of fixing your car.
@@MrRChitty The white part is a tiny bit difference in size and mine is a T because a suburban has 2 core, much like an expedition. But otherwise, yes. And you saved me a ton of money, thank you so much!
By far the best description (and video) I found for removing the heater hose Quick Connect. Replaced both heater hose assemblies on '97 Expedition with rear heating unit. The toughest was at the firewall, but after doing the others this can be done by feel. Had ordered the removal tool with the hoses, but saw this video before the parts arrived. Removed old hoses before the tool even arrived. Thanks for sharing this info!
Pushing back on the connector (as in the opposite way to pull it off) is the key to getting the quick connect to release. You can feel it push in and release. Then just squeeze the two white tabs and it will release. This procedure worked on my GM / Chevrolet Trailblazer SS 6.0L. Don't forget to puts some Sil Glyde or some other lubricant on the fittings so the O-ring does not tear. Excellent video!!!
I have been trying for 3 hours. That didn’t work either and I have small hands. It’s a tight fit at the firewall. I’m “throwing tools mad” at this point!
Great video MrRchitty! I noticed a few folks were asking about where to obtain this quick connect part. I just had to replace one on my 2003 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 5.4L FI SOHC 8cyl. Like one other person had commented, mine had three O rings and the replacement part Doorman - Part # 800-403 that I obtained from Advance Auto came with the same three O rings. If I'm not mistaken, an alternate alternitive would be the Gates Quick-Lok Connector - Part # 28500. Additional Tip! - Credit to Kerry Wallace that stated, "Just an FYI from an old mechanic, a dab of silicone grease on the metal male tube that sides in the o ring will save alot of time and headache when reassembling. This will also help with future removal efforts" Die-Electric grease will work just as well. Without grease, you will play the devil getting the new connector on - with grease, sucker slips and snaps right into place.
Very helpful, I leaned on the left heater hose on 2001 F250 and broke it off, glad you mentioned O ring as it was on the pipe. I bought a new quick connect and it failed, turns out it had no O Ring, since then I bought a new one, slid it on and would not click. Pulled it off the O ring was sideways in there and twisted, so now I have pulled the O ring out and placed it back in. Next move will be to try it again. To me, who ever thought this up should be drawn and quartered at the Ford Company engineers parking lot.
Thank you, so much! I have to replace mine on my 03 olds alero, as coolant is leaking there. I've not been able to locate the quick disconnect remover tool locally and have no time to wait for one to ship to me. I tried using plyers to push the tabs in and pull the thing off, but I was trying to pull the whole thing together. Now, I have a better solution. You are awesome! God bless you!
Same here… the thing is I saw another video where they used the tool so I struggled for an hour with the tool because it really is a bitch to depress the buttons.. I could get one side but never the other until I realized I could unlock the top and then rotate the tube 180 and then get the other one in the same top position
Thanks for the visual. I was able to remove the quick connect on my E-350 heater core with one hand. I'm fairly certain I used silicon grease on the o-rings when I replaced the heater core several years ago.
Thanks! You just saved my hubby a ton of time. This isn't only for ford... We were working on a 2000 Mazda MPV minivan. The quick connects might be universal. They are at the very least, interchangeable between a 2000 Mazda MPV and the Ford expedition in this video. Thanks again for a very informative video! I'm subscribing 😁
I believe the Mazda MPV may have been a Ford in Disguise. Ford had part ownership in Mazda and had Mazda Branding on certain Ford products. Thank you for reaching out and appreciate the sub. Randy
You video was VERY helpful. There are several types of disconnects on my 02 F250. The heater core outlets are stubbed out from the firewall really close. I was unable to get a release tool back to mine. After watching your video, I was able to blindly manipulate the fitting to come loose. Thanks again!
Thanks, mine's in a tight area, ended up just cutting old hose off and slipping the new one on. But 6 months later it's leaking. I didn't know there was an O ring on them. Thanks for the video enjoyed it
If I'm not mistaken I did this with a pair of needle nose pliers when I changed the core of my Expedition, and just used new hoses. But I forget, and have forgotten all about this, which is why I'm here because I have to change these on another Ford. I think the reason they may have used these is it may have saved them a few seconds on the assembly line, which may sound trivial. But considering they have to roll a car out every minute or so it would make sense.
I visited their plant in New Jersey about 25 years ago. They were pumping out one Ford Ranger every minute on the assembly plant. Reason for my post was that auto parts stores were selling a tool that I could never get to work. Appreciate the feedback.
thanks for the tip. I'm thinking of doing on 97 Expedition with motorcraft heater hose assembly KH-710 for outlet and KH-714 on inlet. it doesn't look like there's much room to remove the hoses next to the firewall. It seems really impossible to do this job mainly because there's no room to reach in there.
It is snug under there. If you have the rear heating unit, removing the plastic wheel well will give you room for those connections. The firewall is doable. I used a step ladder at the front of my truck and just about laid across the top.
Thanks. I have a 1.5 inch long plastic tube coming off my pcv contraption. No threads inside or outside of it. I need to connect a 3/4 inch hose to it. I must maintain the 3/4 inch inside diameter in the entire process. I think the disconnect may do the trick.
Thank you for posting this video, getting ready to pull valve covers off for a timing chain/ oil pump replacement. I have a 97 Ford Expedition 4x4...... with all the B.S. on it, an in my way. The timing chain, oil pump an water pump is the easy part. I love the truck though, an its pulls all my toys. Thanks again.
Another great way removing these aggravating things! :) IF the OEM hose is damaged and unrepairable the tubes of most vehicles will accommodate bulk heater hose to be fitting into place and secured with screw drive or spring action clamps or "ear" clamps (crimpable type). Thanks for sharing!
On my 2005 I pinched the two tabs inside the black area with my fingers then pushed and pulled a couple of times .It came half way off and then finaly with a good pull knowing the tabs where released it came off. The white part left on the metal I had to actually fold the white plastic sides back and pull,surprisingly it did not break. Also I noticed whoever did this before must have broken the second coil pack wire connection from the fire wall because it was taped together.Now I have a misfire.I recommend taking the time to disconnect that coil.
For thoes saying you cant do it on the hose you can. I just tried it. I used needle nose plires to push the tabs down. It comes right off just like he syas. I had my doughts but it does work.
I notice how easy it is in your hand, but near imposable up near the heater core where you can't even get your hand in. I cut that sucker off with a hot knife and put on a clamp.
Once I figured it out in the open air, I went right under and removed mine using this technique. The true benefit to this system, in my opinion, is the installation. Appreciate the feesback.
They never come off easy. I broke all of em off and put stainless clamps on with regular hose. The ones at the heater core were a pain in the butt. I couldn't get a ratchet on em.... Hell, i could barely get my hand in there so i got those clamps with the plastic butterfly tighteners.
It appeared my 2002 had a similar setup, I just didn't Venture into it yet. Just watch for the O-ring if you're having troubles getting the new one on.
I got it all fixed. It turns out I got a cheap aftermarket part that didn’t fit. I got the right part and it went on easily, thanks again for the help I don’t think I would’ve ever figured it out if I didn’t see this video!
Thank you! You saved me a lot of time seeing how the quick connect was built. Great video! I have a 97' E150 that I am taking out the old heater core. I would have probably just broken them off, but they are expensive. Try to save them now.
That quick connect looks the same as the ones on my Chevy Venture. When I press in on those tabs, I can't get them to disconnect. I'm not sure if I'm misunderstanding something you said or if the ones on the Chevy ventures are just really hard to disconnect.
I agree, they look similar on my gmc, as well, however, I haven't had the opportunity to play with those. Moving the assembly towards the connection should allow the tabs to clear the lip before depressing them, and then wiggling the assembly back and forth while pulling back. Keeping in mind that the tabs which are depressed are going to stay behind and the heater hose and connector are going to pull off. That's the way it worked on my Fords.
So far in a 2003 heater core connection T is kicking my butt. When i press the plastic pieces in its not enough for the black piece to come off . Still hitting on the white part .
I am wondering if there is some dirt that got behind it which will or may inhibit its release. I assure you that this works as once I figured it out, I was successful in switching my heater hoses out. Make sure the assembly is pushed towards the nipple so as to allow the teeth to clear the edges. Keep me posted.
After wasting time on this after market quick connect that was never going to connect I used a simple hose clamp. I want to be a engineer some day so i can design stuff that is difficult to impossible for normal people to work on.
Good job. Seems no one wants to video the actual removal /replace but skip that part. Many novice need see that part to boost their confidence. Up date! Did it. Quick dis connect was a small problem, easier if there's two people or you have 4 hands and long arms. You loose about 1 cup, or less, of anti freeze. Pay attention to small surrounding lines so if you knock off one you know where it should had gone not where it might had gone. Have fun.
I removed the factory quick disconnect and yes, there is an O ring in the assembly but there was also one on the heater core pipe just ahead of the white assembly. While installing the new disconnect I suppose I should put the old O ring back on the pipe from whence it came?
Thanks for the response. I ended up destroying the quick connects while removing them from the heater core. I'm thinking with all the effort to remove the hoses it might be a good time to preemptively replace the heater core, which is about 17 years old.
Tried this on a 2000 Expedition, not budging, can't push the plastic tabs in far enough and pull it free. The plastic coupling that's inside the rubber hose broke near the connector. It's the one on the left at firewall, very tight quarters under there. Gave up after 45 minutes. My hands hurt after that, just getting tore up. The tool is 25.00 and they don't have it locally, maybe there's a way to make one, it doesn't look that complicated.
N3D.studio Did the tabs break? Twisting back and forth to ensure it's free, then pushing it towards the firewall before depressing the tabs. I agree. Very tight spot to work in. Good luck.
Can't grab the tabs with both hands and push/pull like that. Another video suggested a 90 deg. needle nose pliers. I had a small pair but can't get on it right. The black tube that goes into the hose broke while driving, fluid went all over the engine. Great design. I ended up just grabbing the plastic tabs with pliers and ripped them off. Had to pull both until it finally came off until they were destroyed. I broke the black connector a little too but it was already broken in half anyway. I did not replace the ends. I just shoved the hose onto the pipe thru firewall as far as I could and tightened down with regular hose clamp. Pointed the clamp so the head was facing down and used a stub nosed flat head or I guess you could grab a socket and wrench and do it too. No leaks. Not going to buy those stupid connectors. If any other connectors break I will be converting them back to regular hose clamps.
Yes, the pipe will actually block you from squeezing those ears far enough to release it. The tool is designed to depress the little tabs in the small openings. I found that the recommended tool does not work very well because it is so thin. A small block of 1/4" or 3/8" thick plastic shaped like the opening in the factory tool works much better.
@@MrRChitty it worked as per designs but no space to insert any kind of pliers but just 2 fingers, needs to be ok to endure finger tip pain, at first it would not squize enough to free the female tube mostly due to excess of dirt, after spraying wd40 inside some of the shit came out and I was able to free the hose fitting, the idea was to get as much coolant out of engine block as I could. Internal O-ring was still in good condition and clean. I did put a bit of axle grease and put it back. Seems strongly attached and leakproof. Thanks a lot.
@@denislaouenan5553 ah, the secret. Clean the dirt out with some kind of spray degreaser. I've had a few users struggle and that seems to be the answer for them. Appreciate the follow-up and glad it worked.
Mine would com so I just broke it off with screw driver around the ring part then it came off it was like molded on no tool or pressing those parts worked
When you purchase aftermarket heater hoses, they do not include the connector. The connector goes onto the heater hose with the standard clamp and then plugs right onto the nipple.
Fuck ya got it off first try got the tool and was fighting it had no room in the back. Got it off my f150 in 30 seconds thanks for the video save your money no tool needed
On the repair side, yes. For quick assembly at the factory to keep costs in check... once you learn how it works, it speeds the installation for the end user. I am working on changing out a transmission on a chevy and it has the quick assembly on the lines.... if it wasn't for the used replacement one, I would be struggling. But, putting it back together is going to make it easy.
It's tricky at first, my video gives you the concept. You do not need a tool. Grasping the whole assembly, push towards the heater core and give it a turn back and forth to ensure that it is loose enough. I know Ford gives you a boat load of room under there.... lol. Feel for the openings where the white part of the clip comes through the assembly. Squeeze that area with your thumb and index finger so as to depress the clips in as far as possible. Then, pull away from the fire wall. You must depress the tabs while pushing first, then pull back. Keep me posted. I'll check on this in a little bit. Regards, Randy
Please replace with new , made mistake of using the old ones with heater core R & R one came apart costing me a 150 tow back home for a 20 dollar clip replace
@MrRChitty Oh, i did that. I'm 57 yo, and been doing crap for a long time. They gave me a part for a GM. I'm pissed. Working in a snowbank outdoors in Northern MN ain't fun. Bastards eye closed today.
They should release. Hopefully they weren't damaged in previous attempts to release them. That or dirt made its way in that area. Twisting motions while pressing on may clear it. While pressing on, you can try and squeeze the release tabs.
The engineer that designed this, especially the recessed heater hose connections against the firewall, needs to be strung up!
Ummmmm...... maybe should find another line of work. But then, again... the bgg quick connects made their job a lot easier. As I would not call these quick disconnects.
Just an FYI from an old mechanic, a dab of silicone grease on the metal male tube that sides in the o ring will save alot of time and headache when reassembling. This will also help with future removal efforts. Great info in the video by the way. Straight and to the point. Tx.
Kerry Wallace thank you.
Should I buy a quick connect for the side that isn't going into the fire wall too? Plus an o ring?
8 year's and you are the only one who explain it very well thank you,
@@2Nelly4 Thank you very much
THANK YOU!!!! I have been looking for a simple description of how to deal with these quick-disconnect connectors! Not so quick when you have to spend an hour on TH-cam trying to find a video that tells you how they work.
LMacNeill when your replaced the quick connect did you have to buy New O-Rings ? Or did they come in there already ??
This video helped me out tremedously. I replaced the ends on the main vacuum line of my 2001 F150 5.4 ltr and in doing so bumped the top heater hose enough to break the plastic quick connect. The clip end was still on the heater core pipe and I could not get it off. This video allowed me to get the broken piece off and replace the heater hose. The trick is to push the quick connect to the firewall, then push down internal tabs of the clip while easing the black plastic quick connect away from the firewall. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!!
SkynAnge Thank you!
SkynAnge- Thanks for that tip!
Thanks for the help, I ended up having to disconnect one side of the clip first from inner and outer part and the then other side and pull and twist out. This video/comment did help! 👍🏽
Thanks! You're still saving humanity much time and effort in November of 2023 🙂
Thank you!!!!
Excuse me Mr. . Thank you so much , I did the same thing, but the tool. Struggled for 2 hours . Watched your video ,and in seconds I was finished, you are the man. Thank you
You had me at "excuse me Mr." I am glad it worked out. Yes, that tool is not the right thing.
@@MrRChitty
Lol.... But for real though you literally saved my ass, Have a great Day. Thank you
MrRchitty ... your thorough explanation did the trick. I also bought the 'special' tool but found it ineffective in removing these bad boys. I had one bad heater hose. While removing the end next to the passenger compartment the second one snapped. I barely touched it BUT...not necessarily a bad thing as it probably makes more sense to replace both so I am not stranded somewhere. CHEERS and THANK YOU.
Thank you. I am glad it worked for you
@@MrRChitty The bit of your trick that really pushed the success for my 2006 Ford F150 LTD 4x4 Triton) replacement was the one handed bit at the end. I did exactly what you showed by cutting the hose off (throwing it away and replacing) and then I had basically the unit and pipe coming out of the passenger compartment. There is NO room for two hands in this meager, poorly lit area. Thanks again, Jim
I couldn't for the life of me get the hoses on. The dab of grease comments were so spot on! No effort at all after that!
I am glad it worked for you
Adding to the kudos! The old T quick connect on my Chevy Suburban snapped off inside the hose, my quick connect T's off back to the 2nd heater core in the rear. Your video saved us after a long while of messing with it. But my two teenage sons now know the joys of fixing your car.
This is the same for GM??
@@MrRChitty The white part is a tiny bit difference in size and mine is a T because a suburban has 2 core, much like an expedition. But otherwise, yes. And you saved me a ton of money, thank you so much!
@@undeniable_1 appreciate the feedback. I have a Suburban and at some point the hoses will get changed.
What is purpose on using the not so quick connectors anyway?
This is the best video I have seen on the ford disconnect hose. Thank You for the demonstration.
Thank you!
By far the best description (and video) I found for removing the heater hose Quick Connect. Replaced both heater hose assemblies on '97 Expedition with rear heating unit. The toughest was at the firewall, but after doing the others this can be done by feel. Had ordered the removal tool with the hoses, but saw this video before the parts arrived. Removed old hoses before the tool even arrived. Thanks for sharing this info!
Thank you, very much. I wish I was able to show it live.
Pushing back on the connector (as in the opposite way to pull it off) is the key to getting the quick connect to release. You can feel it push in and release. Then just squeeze the two white tabs and it will release. This procedure worked on my GM / Chevrolet Trailblazer SS 6.0L. Don't forget to puts some Sil Glyde or some other lubricant on the fittings so the O-ring does not tear. Excellent video!!!
I appreciate your feedback.
I have been trying for 3 hours. That didn’t work either and I have small hands. It’s a tight fit at the firewall.
I’m “throwing tools mad” at this point!
Great video MrRchitty! I noticed a few folks were asking about where to obtain this quick connect part. I just had to replace one on my 2003 Ford Truck F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 5.4L FI SOHC 8cyl.
Like one other person had commented, mine had three O rings and the replacement part Doorman - Part # 800-403 that I obtained from Advance Auto came with the same three O rings. If I'm not mistaken, an alternate alternitive would be the Gates Quick-Lok Connector - Part # 28500.
Additional Tip! - Credit to Kerry Wallace that stated, "Just an FYI from an old mechanic, a dab of silicone grease on the metal male tube that sides in the o ring will save alot of time and headache when reassembling. This will also help with future removal efforts" Die-Electric grease will work just as well. Without grease, you will play the devil getting the new connector on - with grease, sucker slips and snaps right into place.
Great info. ANy idea on the size tool to remove these clips? Im going to cnc one from wood
Very helpful, I leaned on the left heater hose on 2001 F250 and broke it off, glad you mentioned O ring as it was on the pipe. I bought a new quick connect and it failed, turns out it had no O Ring, since then I bought a new one, slid it on and would not click. Pulled it off the O ring was sideways in there and twisted, so now I have pulled the O ring out and placed it back in. Next move will be to try it again. To me, who ever thought this up should be drawn and quartered at the Ford Company engineers parking lot.
timmy tool I'm glad it helped.
Thank you, so much!
I have to replace mine on my 03 olds alero, as coolant is leaking there. I've not been able to locate the quick disconnect remover tool locally and have no time to wait for one to ship to me. I tried using plyers to push the tabs in and pull the thing off, but I was trying to pull the whole thing together. Now, I have a better solution. You are awesome!
God bless you!
GOD bless you sir . I kept trying with that quick release tool with no luck. Watched your video and came right off.❤❤❤❤🇺🇲🗽🇺🇲🗽👍🏼🙏🏽
Thank you. Glad it worked out.
Same here… the thing is I saw another video where they used the tool so I struggled for an hour with the tool because it really is a bitch to depress the buttons.. I could get one side but never the other until I realized I could unlock the top and then rotate the tube 180 and then get the other one in the same top position
F**king thank you dude! Short, sweet, and to the God loving point. Worked in seconds! I smell a Nobel Peace Prize in your future!
Best review, yet. I appreciate it!! All the best and thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the visual. I was able to remove the quick connect on my E-350 heater core with one hand. I'm fairly certain I used silicon grease on the o-rings when I replaced the heater core several years ago.
Appreciate the feedback.
thanks alot u saved me , had the hardest time trying to disconnect this, watched your video and did it in 10 sec, thank u
Thanks! You just saved my hubby a ton of time. This isn't only for ford... We were working on a 2000 Mazda MPV minivan. The quick connects might be universal. They are at the very least, interchangeable between a 2000 Mazda MPV and the Ford expedition in this video. Thanks again for a very informative video! I'm subscribing 😁
I believe the Mazda MPV may have been a Ford in Disguise. Ford had part ownership in Mazda and had Mazda Branding on certain Ford products. Thank you for reaching out and appreciate the sub. Randy
You video was VERY helpful. There are several types of disconnects on my 02 F250. The heater core outlets are stubbed out from the firewall really close. I was unable to get a release tool back to mine. After watching your video, I was able to blindly manipulate the fitting to come loose. Thanks again!
dovedevllc Thank you. I am glad it helped.
Thanks, mine's in a tight area, ended up just cutting old hose off and slipping the new one on. But 6 months later it's leaking. I didn't know there was an O ring on them. Thanks for the video enjoyed it
Thank you for the feedback.
If I'm not mistaken I did this with a pair of needle nose pliers when I changed the core of my Expedition, and just used new hoses. But I forget, and have forgotten all about this, which is why I'm here because I have to change these on another Ford.
I think the reason they may have used these is it may have saved them a few seconds on the assembly line, which may sound trivial. But considering they have to roll a car out every minute or so it would make sense.
I visited their plant in New Jersey about 25 years ago. They were pumping out one Ford Ranger every minute on the assembly plant. Reason for my post was that auto parts stores were selling a tool that I could never get to work. Appreciate the feedback.
thanks for the tip. I'm thinking of doing on 97 Expedition with motorcraft heater hose assembly KH-710 for outlet and KH-714 on inlet. it doesn't look like there's much room to remove the hoses next to the firewall. It seems really impossible to do this job mainly because there's no room to reach in there.
It is snug under there. If you have the rear heating unit, removing the plastic wheel well will give you room for those connections. The firewall is doable. I used a step ladder at the front of my truck and just about laid across the top.
Thank you for this video. Still helpful in December of 2020
Thank you
Same. Got a 2000 Malibu with the nipples melted into the hose on BOTH connectors.
Thanks. I have a 1.5 inch long plastic tube coming off my pcv contraption. No threads inside or outside of it. I need to connect a 3/4 inch hose to it. I must maintain the 3/4 inch inside diameter in the entire process. I think the disconnect may do the trick.
thanks man, my quick connect broke removing the spark plug. this video was a quick life saver
David White thank you. Good luck.
Thank you for posting this video, getting ready to pull valve covers off for a timing chain/ oil pump replacement. I have a 97 Ford Expedition 4x4...... with all the B.S. on it, an in my way. The timing chain, oil pump an water pump is the easy part. I love the truck though, an its pulls all my toys. Thanks again.
Loved the truck as well as the heavy (250) series frame and the turning radius.
That was a great video. Worked like i knew what i was doing!,
Thank you for the feedback. Happy New Year!
This saved me sooo much work! Bless you! Thank you!
Thank you for your feedback.
Thanks for post. Wouldn’t have been able to remove without this video. Easy to remove once you figure out how to remove.
Thanks for.the feedback. I hope it worked for you.
Read your comment on Joe's channel and you really came through for me with this video thank you.
Many thanks! These are not easy to even knowing how to do it! Your video helped!
Thank you
Another great way removing these aggravating things! :) IF the OEM hose is damaged and unrepairable the tubes of most vehicles will accommodate bulk heater hose to be fitting into place and secured with screw drive or spring action clamps or "ear" clamps (crimpable type).
Thanks for sharing!
jwa718 Delete? Thank you
Sometimes the hose id is different than the tube od. I swear they do this shit on purpose so you can't do what is suggested here.
Thanks for posting this video! Good job of explaining the quick connect heater hose! Helped to make my fix doable -- and successful.
thanks for the feedback
Thanks man! This video provided the info I needed. No muss, no fuss. To the point and concise.
Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it. I'm glad it worked for you!
hey thanks for the video.... I'm diving into some repairs on my F350 which will have the quick connects as well wish me luck thanks!!!
Good luck and let me know how it works..
On my 2005 I pinched the two tabs inside the black area with my fingers then pushed and pulled a couple of times .It came half way off and then finaly with a good pull knowing the tabs where released it came off. The white part left on the metal I had to actually fold the white plastic sides back and pull,surprisingly it did not break. Also I noticed whoever did this before must have broken the second coil pack wire connection from the fire wall because it was taped together.Now I have a misfire.I recommend taking the time to disconnect that coil.
Appreciate the feedback. Good luck with the coil pack.
For thoes saying you cant do it on the hose you can. I just tried it. I used needle nose plires to push the tabs down. It comes right off just like he syas. I had my doughts but it does work.
Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it.
@@MrRChitty if i could figure out how to uploatd a picture i would. I took pictures while i was doing it.
Just want to say thank you also very helpful and made it very simple
I appreciate the feedback
Thanks for the video. Well done with a great explanation that was straight and to the point. Thanks for posting.
Liberty OCD Thank you!
thanks for the video, do you have any idea whats the inner diameter of the heater hoses?
5/8 or 3/4 and it's often different than the od of the metal tube the hose connects to.
When re-connecting. Do I put the white clip on the stem first OR do I fit it into the black connector and slide the whole assembly on.
fit it back into the black connector. Then the entire assembly just snaps together.
This helped a lot made for quick uninstall and quick install
Thank you
This video saved me a ton of time thanks!
Thank you.
Thank you and great job.
Exactly what I was looking for
Thank you
Fantastic explanation, thanks very much.
Thanks for the feedback. All the best and happy new year.
I notice how easy it is in your hand, but near imposable up near the heater core where you can't even get your hand in. I cut that sucker off with a hot knife and put on a clamp.
Once I figured it out in the open air, I went right under and removed mine using this technique. The true benefit to this system, in my opinion, is the installation. Appreciate the feesback.
They never come off easy. I broke all of em off and put stainless clamps on with regular hose. The ones at the heater core were a pain in the butt. I couldn't get a ratchet on em.... Hell, i could barely get my hand in there so i got those clamps with the plastic butterfly tighteners.
Agree, it is a pain.
How are they holding up? The clamps you used.
Thank u, best video, very well explained
great video very helpful! I love the ducks in the background just like here!
myarabianhorse thank you
Thank you so much for your video.
You're welcome. I appreciate the feedback
Thanks so much man. I’ve been struggling to get this style fitting off on my 07 GMC Yukon Denali.
I just picked up a 2002 Yukon XL, and notice that has similar connectors and I was wondering if it was the same, how did you make out?
MrRchitty currently working on it. I got the old broken clip off but I’m having troubles getting the new one on.
It appeared my 2002 had a similar setup, I just didn't Venture into it yet. Just watch for the O-ring if you're having troubles getting the new one on.
Keep me posted
I got it all fixed. It turns out I got a cheap aftermarket part that didn’t fit. I got the right part and it went on easily, thanks again for the help I don’t think I would’ve ever figured it out if I didn’t see this video!
Thank you very much. I actually was able to do it
Thanks for the feedback
Thank you! You saved me a lot of time seeing how the quick connect was built. Great video! I have a 97' E150 that I am taking out the old heater core. I would have probably just broken them off, but they are expensive. Try to save them now.
tomhendry1 Thank you and good luck.
Exactly what I needed to know, thanks.
Thank you
That quick connect looks the same as the ones on my Chevy Venture. When I press in on those tabs, I can't get them to disconnect. I'm not sure if I'm misunderstanding something you said or if the ones on the Chevy ventures are just really hard to disconnect.
I agree, they look similar on my gmc, as well, however, I haven't had the opportunity to play with those. Moving the assembly towards the connection should allow the tabs to clear the lip before depressing them, and then wiggling the assembly back and forth while pulling back. Keeping in mind that the tabs which are depressed are going to stay behind and the heater hose and connector are going to pull off. That's the way it worked on my Fords.
Thanks so much for sharing this!
Thank you.
Love you man! Thank you so much. 😊
Thank you!!!!
So far in a 2003 heater core connection T is kicking my butt. When i press the plastic pieces in its not enough for the black piece to come off . Still hitting on the white part .
I am wondering if there is some dirt that got behind it which will or may inhibit its release. I assure you that this works as once I figured it out, I was successful in switching my heater hoses out. Make sure the assembly is pushed towards the nipple so as to allow the teeth to clear the edges. Keep me posted.
After wasting time on this after market quick connect that was never going to connect I used a simple hose clamp. I want to be a engineer some day so i can design stuff that is difficult to impossible for normal people to work on.
Good job. Seems no one wants to video the actual removal /replace but skip that part. Many novice need see that part to boost their confidence.
Up date! Did it. Quick dis connect was a small problem, easier if there's two people or you have 4 hands and long arms. You loose about 1 cup, or less, of anti freeze.
Pay attention to small surrounding lines so if you knock off one you know where it should had gone not where it might had gone. Have fun.
Appreciate the feedback.
I removed the factory quick disconnect and yes, there is an O ring in the assembly but there was also one on the heater core pipe just ahead of the white assembly. While installing the new disconnect I suppose I should put the old O ring back on the pipe from whence it came?
it is my experience that there is supposed to be one O ring. The 6 connections on my truck used just the ones from the new connector.
I have it on. About to pressure test it.
Thanks for the video. Do we really need to replace the quick connects, or can we just use hose clamps?
Joe Dusel there is a ridge in the pipe, I'd say, "no". You'd appreciate putting it back with the connector, makes it so much easier.
Thanks for the response. I ended up destroying the quick connects while removing them from the heater core. I'm thinking with all the effort to remove the hoses it might be a good time to preemptively replace the heater core, which is about 17 years old.
Joe Dusel That's ambitious. mine is partially clogged. I'm going to try and flush it.
good simple video. Thanks bro!!!!
Thank you!
Tried this on a 2000 Expedition, not budging, can't push the plastic tabs in far enough and pull it free. The plastic coupling that's inside the rubber hose broke near the connector. It's the one on the left at firewall, very tight quarters under there. Gave up after 45 minutes. My hands hurt after that, just getting tore up. The tool is 25.00 and they don't have it locally, maybe there's a way to make one, it doesn't look that complicated.
N3D.studio Did the tabs break?
Twisting back and forth to ensure it's free, then pushing it towards the firewall before depressing the tabs.
I agree. Very tight spot to work in.
Good luck.
Can't grab the tabs with both hands and push/pull like that. Another video suggested a 90 deg. needle nose pliers. I had a small pair but can't get on it right. The black tube that goes into the hose broke while driving, fluid went all over the engine. Great design. I ended up just grabbing the plastic tabs with pliers and ripped them off. Had to pull both until it finally came off until they were destroyed. I broke the black connector a little too but it was already broken in half anyway. I did not replace the ends. I just shoved the hose onto the pipe thru firewall as far as I could and tightened down with regular hose clamp. Pointed the clamp so the head was facing down and used a stub nosed flat head or I guess you could grab a socket and wrench and do it too. No leaks. Not going to buy those stupid connectors. If any other connectors break I will be converting them back to regular hose clamps.
Same shit here just bypass the heater core with 90 elbow and some hose clamps
Try doing it while on the pipe
Yes, the pipe will actually block you from squeezing those ears far enough to release it. The tool is designed to depress the little tabs in the small openings. I found that the recommended tool does not work very well because it is so thin. A small block of 1/4" or 3/8" thick plastic shaped like the opening in the factory tool works much better.
Just did it on the pipe removed the old pieces and put all new
Great video for working with the quick disconnect on a bench, not much good with the disconnect actually on the heater pipe
Piss poor bullshit motherfucking sonofabitch of a design...
Anybody wanna guess what I've been doing for the last 2 hours?
This should be called a quick connect / 4 hour disconnect.
Good video of a nasty little job made simpler and much easier. Thanks this will help me today.
keep me posted.
I got them changed and used a 90 degree needle nose and the job is done. Thanks
Sweet deal. I can see how the needle noise pliers would make that job easier.
I have this on a 6.2L engine oil cooler coolant connections. though this was the way but wanted to make sure. 10 years old and looks fragile.
@@denislaouenan5553 how did it work? Interested to know.
@@MrRChitty it worked as per designs but no space to insert any kind of pliers but just 2 fingers, needs to be ok to endure finger tip pain, at first it would not squize enough to free the female tube mostly due to excess of dirt, after spraying wd40 inside some of the shit came out and I was able to free the hose fitting, the idea was to get as much coolant out of engine block as I could. Internal O-ring was still in good condition and clean. I did put a bit of axle grease and put it back. Seems strongly attached and leakproof. Thanks a lot.
@@denislaouenan5553 ah, the secret. Clean the dirt out with some kind of spray degreaser. I've had a few users struggle and that seems to be the answer for them. Appreciate the follow-up and glad it worked.
Thank you needed to specifically see about the o ring …
Glad it helped.
Dude added a like thank you
Thanks alot! Really helpful
Thank you
Great! Will it work for me or not, at least I know what I am doing. Thank you,
Good luck. It should work for you. Thanks for the feedback.
Dang i wish i saw this video before, i had to break the clip to get it off but now i know for next time
Juan LOL.....
Saved me a shit load of struggle 😎👍
Glad to hear that this worked for you.
Mine would com so I just broke it off with screw driver around the ring part then it came off it was like molded on no tool or pressing those parts worked
Ouch... hopefully the new one went right on.
Yeah made sure not to damage the metal but I think they were oem and it had over 220k on it
I am replacing my heater core in a 2005 E-150 4.5L and need to know where to get these clips and the black part?
Sanitys Void Most any Auto Parts Store, under the brand name Dorman or Motormight.
Thank you man, I owe ya a beer
BassMasterCHS Thank you. I am glad it helped.
Subscribe, as I will subscribe to you as well. It helps my viewership
Question...Are there 2 sizes on the 99 expedition? 3/4 and 5/8 or one size fits both pipes?
steze48 They're all the same size. Dorman and Motormite (Help!) manufacture these parts.
What’s the little connector you was using for the demonstration?
When you purchase aftermarket heater hoses, they do not include the connector. The connector goes onto the heater hose with the standard clamp and then plugs right onto the nipple.
@@MrRChitty Dorman 800-403?
Fuck ya got it off first try got the tool and was fighting it had no room in the back. Got it off my f150 in 30 seconds thanks for the video save your money no tool needed
@@jaykubes4469 I appreciate the feedback. Thank you.
Helpful Thanks Bro!
Isn’t it crazy all these parts are manufactured and then it like figure out what this is for and how it works
On the repair side, yes. For quick assembly at the factory to keep costs in check... once you learn how it works, it speeds the installation for the end user. I am working on changing out a transmission on a chevy and it has the quick assembly on the lines.... if it wasn't for the used replacement one, I would be struggling. But, putting it back together is going to make it easy.
Nothing quick about these junk leaking "O" ring hoses, and like washer less kitchen facets the entire design is a scam.
They Are Junk. Doing mine with hose clamps. Same with that piece of shit radiator hose ring shit. Anything to stay in yer pocket.
Do you have the O-Ring part # ? For that heater hose quick connect
I do not.
Easy peasy. Thanks
Thank you
Can you tell me how to take the old extension off of the heater and replace the new hose?
It's tricky at first, my video gives you the concept. You do not need a tool. Grasping the whole assembly, push towards the heater core and give it a turn back and forth to ensure that it is loose enough. I know Ford gives you a boat load of room under there.... lol. Feel for the openings where the white part of the clip comes through the assembly. Squeeze that area with your thumb and index finger so as to depress the clips in as far as possible. Then, pull away from the fire wall. You must depress the tabs while pushing first, then pull back.
Keep me posted. I'll check on this in a little bit.
Regards,
Randy
I got it thanks so much
Kristin McCormick You are welcome, I am glad it worked.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome
They are a confusing nightmare to get off if you don't know how, this is you tube at its best.
pachy444 Thank you
Please replace with new , made mistake of using the old ones with heater core R & R one came apart costing me a 150 tow back home for a 20 dollar clip replace
Agree.
How about installing? Mine keeps falling off.
@@monotheis6889 Is it a brand-new installation? If so, make sure the original o-ring has come off the nipple.
@MrRChitty
Oh, i did that. I'm 57 yo, and been doing crap for a long time. They gave me a part for a GM. I'm pissed. Working in a snowbank outdoors in Northern MN ain't fun. Bastards eye closed today.
@monotheis6889 ahhhh. GM for Ford part?
Evap service hose connecting to evap purge valve hose solenoid brought me here.
I do have many keywords.
Thanks!
Now if Ford didn't bury these about a foot under the cowl directly beside each other
My sentiments, 💯
good vid thanks
Thank you very much. Stay well.
Thank you!
Thank you!
How do you put the white clip back on?
GhostHonda They slide into the assembly, matching the ears up to the holes. Make sure the O-ring came with the assembly.
You are an angle thank you
Thank you
What if the teeth inside doesn't want to pop off what you do,?
They should release. Hopefully they weren't damaged in previous attempts to release them. That or dirt made its way in that area. Twisting motions while pressing on may clear it. While pressing on, you can try and squeeze the release tabs.