Hello Rick, greetings from UK. Really enjoying your channel. Been building and flying for over 25 year and thought I knew most of it but you always provide some fantastic tips in your videos. Many thanks
Hi Craig, it's great to hear that you're enjoying the channel! I completely agree with you - this hobby is full of learning opportunities, and it's amazing how many talented modelers out there are willing to share their ideas and techniques. There's always something new to discover and experiment with!
Great video Rick, well done and timely for me. The only plane I built and flew was a Kadet Mark II in 1987 with my dad when I was 20, Last time I flew it was 1995. Still have the plane to this day…. This December I made the decision to get back into it and make an airplane. I opened up the original box my Kadet came in for the first time in decades and the plans were still taped with Saran Wrap. I was able to iron out the plans flat, scan them and trace over them with Autodesk Fusion. I just bought a diode laser and trying to get up to speed with it so I can cut out my own parts like you Rick. Fortunately I’ve been a mechanical engineer who has specialized in 3D CAD design for 30 years so making 3D models is the easy part. I’ve designed mine with all tab-slot joints. Also created it with a Clark airfoil instead of the original flat bottom on the Kadet. I’m at the point where I’m ready to make a bulk purchase of balsa supplies. Know any good deals on balsa?
Hey Dean, it's good to hear that you're reigniting your passion for RC airplanes. The possibilities are endless with your talent. By the way, if you're looking for balsa wood in Canada, you might want to check out Thunderbolt RC and MAP Balsa. For those based in the US, National Balsa Wood Co., Balsa USA, and Balsa Wood Inc. are some reliable sources. Of course, there are other options available in the US as well. I hope this helps! Here are the links: - Thunderbolt RC: www.thunderboltrc.com/ - MAP Balsa: www.modelaviationproducts.com - National Balsa Wood Co.: nationalbalsa.com/ - Balsa USA: balsausa.com/ - Balsa Wood Inc.: www.balsawoodinc.com/ Cheers, Rick
Hello Gary, The build series is designed to assist new builders like yourself. I am pleased to hear that it will be useful for you and hopefully for many others as well. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. By the way, what is the name of the model you are building? Thank you for the comments. Rick
Nice, I used to build small rubber band or solid pellet jet engined balsa models. Very relaxing hobby. Until the damn thing crashes on the first flight! Looking forward to watching the complete build.
I think I was around 10 years old when I built my first rubber band :) and then went to u-control with a 049 engine. There was no shortage of crashes, lol. That being said you are right about it being a relaxing hobby and not to mention the satisfaction in building model airplanes. It eventually lead to an airline pilot career. Rick
Hey Rick... thank you for your content... one question... when you use CA glue- do you use the CA+ glue that uses an accelerant to "fill in the gaps" thank you in advance
Hi Chip, Good question. I use "thick" CA to fill gaps, however, if that isn't working in filling the gap with thick CA. You can use an accelerator sometimes called kicker will greatly speed up the curing. The result is the CA is unable to run through the gap and it becomes filled. If you are new to CA glue you may find my video on glue useful. th-cam.com/video/6-ZZ5SGJnh4/w-d-xo.html.
Hi Rick, that’s a really big Sweet & Low, much bigger than my .40 sized kit from Midwest. From whom did you buy the short kit? Do you recommend not using wood glue for large fuselage laminations because of warpage issues? I just started a kit and even though I weighed the fuselage halves after applying titebond, I still had warpage when it was dry.
Hello, This model is a Midwest but unfortunately they don't make kits any longer. It is a big one, wingspan 86 inches and the fuselage is 67 inches long plus engine installation. I made the short kit with my laser cutter. I guess if someone really wanted a short kit I would consider cutting one. It flys like your 40 size and easier to see...lol. As for gluing the doubler I don't ever recommend using aliphatic glue such as Titebond, or any carpenter glue. They require air to dry and therefore the glue dries unevenly. It starts at the outer edge and works its way to the centre resulting in warping more times than not. Use contact cement, but be careful applying the doubler you get one shot to line it up. I use 30 minute epoxy, plenty of time lining it up and cures without air, no warping. Check out my video on "glue" you may find it helpful. Here's the link. th-cam.com/video/6-ZZ5SGJnh4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eR2kG_daP_mM00yd
I love building kits but I also love scratch building. I think that we have become lazy depending on ARF's. Plus model building develops patience in people, something that we lost over the years.
Hi Wayne, Yeah sometimes you get of lucky :) with nothing sticking to your project, however it's all about saving the plans which can be costly. For what it's worth using to much glue on joints doesn't help. I have seen many times far too much glue being used in model building. No doubt, I will have wax paper sticking to something before this builds over. lol. At least it sands off easily. Thank you for the comment. Rick
I love building kits, very relaxing, been doing that since I started on Gallows back in the 70s
Hello Erst, I have to agree with you, building airplanes is relaxing and rewarding. Thank you for the comment. Rick
Hello Rick, greetings from UK. Really enjoying your channel. Been building and flying for over 25 year and thought I knew most of it but you always provide some fantastic tips in your videos. Many thanks
Hi Craig, it's great to hear that you're enjoying the channel! I completely agree with you - this hobby is full of learning opportunities, and it's amazing how many talented modelers out there are willing to share their ideas and techniques. There's always something new to discover and experiment with!
Great video Rick, well done and timely for me. The only plane I built and flew was a Kadet Mark II in 1987 with my dad when I was 20, Last time I flew it was 1995. Still have the plane to this day…. This December I made the decision to get back into it and make an airplane. I opened up the original box my Kadet came in for the first time in decades and the plans were still taped with Saran Wrap. I was able to iron out the plans flat, scan them and trace over them with Autodesk Fusion. I just bought a diode laser and trying to get up to speed with it so I can cut out my own parts like you Rick. Fortunately I’ve been a mechanical engineer who has specialized in 3D CAD design for 30 years so making 3D models is the easy part. I’ve designed mine with all tab-slot joints. Also created it with a Clark airfoil instead of the original flat bottom on the Kadet. I’m at the point where I’m ready to make a bulk purchase of balsa supplies. Know any good deals on balsa?
Hey Dean, it's good to hear that you're reigniting your passion for RC airplanes. The possibilities are endless with your talent. By the way, if you're looking for balsa wood in Canada, you might want to check out Thunderbolt RC and MAP Balsa. For those based in the US, National Balsa Wood Co., Balsa USA, and Balsa Wood Inc. are some reliable sources. Of course, there are other options available in the US as well. I hope this helps!
Here are the links:
- Thunderbolt RC: www.thunderboltrc.com/
- MAP Balsa: www.modelaviationproducts.com
- National Balsa Wood Co.: nationalbalsa.com/
- Balsa USA: balsausa.com/
- Balsa Wood Inc.: www.balsawoodinc.com/
Cheers, Rick
Thank you so much for this series!!! I’m just starting my first model and you provided so many useful tips!!!!
Hello Gary, The build series is designed to assist new builders like yourself. I am pleased to hear that it will be useful for you and hopefully for many others as well. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. By the way, what is the name of the model you are building? Thank you for the comments. Rick
Nice, I used to build small rubber band or solid pellet jet engined balsa models. Very relaxing hobby. Until the damn thing crashes on the first flight! Looking forward to watching the complete build.
I think I was around 10 years old when I built my first rubber band :) and then went to u-control with a 049 engine. There was no shortage of crashes, lol. That being said you are right about it being a relaxing hobby and not to mention the satisfaction in building model airplanes. It eventually lead to an airline pilot career. Rick
Good content, keep it up ❤
Thank you! Will do!
Hey Rick... thank you for your content... one question... when you use CA glue- do you use the CA+ glue that uses an accelerant to "fill in the gaps" thank you in advance
Hi Chip, Good question. I use "thick" CA to fill gaps, however, if that isn't working in filling the gap with thick CA. You can use an accelerator sometimes called kicker will greatly speed up the curing. The result is the CA is unable to run through the gap and it becomes filled. If you are new to CA glue you may find my video on glue useful. th-cam.com/video/6-ZZ5SGJnh4/w-d-xo.html.
Hi Rick, that’s a really big Sweet & Low, much bigger than my .40 sized kit from Midwest. From whom did you buy the short kit?
Do you recommend not using wood glue for large fuselage laminations because of warpage issues? I just started a kit and even though I weighed the fuselage halves after applying titebond, I still had warpage when it was dry.
Hello, This model is a Midwest but unfortunately they don't make kits any longer. It is a big one, wingspan 86 inches and the fuselage is 67 inches long plus engine installation. I made the short kit with my laser cutter. I guess if someone really wanted a short kit I would consider cutting one. It flys like your 40 size and easier to see...lol. As for gluing the doubler I don't ever recommend using aliphatic glue such as Titebond, or any carpenter glue. They require air to dry and therefore the glue dries unevenly. It starts at the outer edge and works its way to the centre resulting in warping more times than not. Use contact cement, but be careful applying the doubler you get one shot to line it up. I use 30 minute epoxy, plenty of time lining it up and cures without air, no warping. Check out my video on "glue" you may find it helpful. Here's the link.
th-cam.com/video/6-ZZ5SGJnh4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eR2kG_daP_mM00yd
I love building kits but I also love scratch building. I think that we have become lazy depending on ARF's. Plus model building develops patience in people, something that we lost over the years.
I'm hoping to rekindle the interest in building model airplanes. Thank you for the comments. Rick
10:00 as you can see, it doesn't stick to the wax paper. Lol 😂😂
I wish!
Hi Wayne, Yeah sometimes you get of lucky :) with nothing sticking to your project, however it's all about saving the plans which can be costly. For what it's worth using to much glue on joints doesn't help. I have seen many times far too much glue being used in model building. No doubt, I will have wax paper sticking to something before this builds over. lol. At least it sands off easily. Thank you for the comment. Rick