All very valuable to me since I'll probably get to reassembly my engine sometime this winter. I know the theory, but it's very different being able to watch somebody do it. Thanks alot!
I wait and install the front 2 water outlet bolts/studs after I get the head on and likewise remove the front 2 before removal. It makes going on and off much easier.
Thank you for watching my video. At the end of this other video I created that focused on just preping and painting the head, you can see the can of spray paint I used - th-cam.com/video/SBYiI_Jf-Ik/w-d-xo.html .
Thanks Doug ---- Nothing special about running a Tap or Die in a block or one of the head studs. ALL holes and bolts should be cleaned " chased " to get PROPER torque be sure to blow all holes out.. A Tap and Die set does not have be expensive - Even your Harbor Freight one will do. A small set for most standard or metric threads will come with a Pitch Gage and with that lie one of the gages on top of the thread till you get the one gage that fits right down into the root of the thread - hold up to the light to see if the gage fits into the threads of what you are checking.-- they will mate as one. Good Video -----Rodney
Thank you for watching my video. I am not sure I would agree to remove all the spark plugs when performing a compression test, because I would think you want to simulate "real world" load scenarios when testing, and having all the other spark plugs in the other cylinders not being tested for compression comes closest to a real world simulation of actual compression? Others may be able to add their observations and experiences as well.
Thank you for watching my video. In an ideal world , with access to advanced tools to pull and remove the motor, yes that would be nice to take the block to a machine shop to have it professionally surfaced to be flat. However I was just replacing the head, and the old head was not leaking when bolted to the block so I knew it was reasonably ok. If I were having the engine rebuilt, most definitely having the top deck of the block machined flat professionally (as well as the manifold/intake side) would be included while the engine is out of the car.
The top surface of the block is not looking too good to put a gasket on it. I would definitely tear apart the complete engine and send it to a machine shop to reface the top side.
Thanks for watching my video. I did do some work on the top deck of the block to smooth it out a bit and improve the contact surface for installing a new gasket. The good thing about copper gaskets is they are more forgiving if the block and head are not exactly perfectly machined- they help fill in the gaps so to speak. This engine block is on its last rebuild, I would not have gone though the effort to take it out and have a machine shop work on it just to put a new head on it. The top of the pistons indicate 0.120 bore, that is about the largest you can go for a Model A cylinder before you need to do something more drastic like re-sleeve the cylinder walls. The good news is after a few hundred miles so far, the new head and gasket are holding up fine- no leaks! A key thing to success is to remember to RE-TORQUE the head nuts after driving a bit! Installing a new head is not just a one time effort to tighten down the nuts/bolts and then you are done. I am going to happily drive it around as long as I can. The crankshaft bearings are also wearing out, I had the babbitt inspected and the shims adjusted by a mechanic to help extend the life of the engine a little longer.
@@dougfierro7155 Keep doing what you're doing, it will get you by for the time being. Sometimes engine builders tend to make it sound so difficult, that it wear's one out. Recall the old boys from the first of production, and on 40-50 years; no torque wrenches, they kept them running. Thanks for the video.😄
In the application of putting head studs into a block, you should be trying to find or locate copper-based anti-seize
All very valuable to me since I'll probably get to reassembly my engine sometime this winter.
I know the theory, but it's very different being able to watch somebody do it. Thanks alot!
I wait and install the front 2 water outlet bolts/studs after I get the head on and likewise remove the front 2 before removal. It makes going on and off much easier.
what paint brand, color and gloss level did you use? it looks beautiful! I got an antique model A color for mine but it doesn't look as nice
Thank you for watching my video. At the end of this other video I created that focused on just preping and painting the head, you can see the can of spray paint I used - th-cam.com/video/SBYiI_Jf-Ik/w-d-xo.html .
Thanks Doug ---- Nothing special about running a Tap or Die in a block or one of the head studs. ALL holes and bolts should be cleaned " chased " to get PROPER torque be sure to blow all holes out.. A Tap and Die set does not have be expensive - Even your Harbor Freight one will do. A small set for most standard or metric threads will come with a Pitch Gage and with that lie one of the gages on top of the thread till you get the one gage that fits right down into the root of the thread - hold up to the light to see if the gage fits into the threads of what you are checking.-- they will mate as one. Good Video -----Rodney
When compression testing always remove all the spark plugs
Thank you for watching my video. I am not sure I would agree to remove all the spark plugs when performing a compression test, because I would think you want to simulate "real world" load scenarios when testing, and having all the other spark plugs in the other cylinders not being tested for compression comes closest to a real world simulation of actual compression? Others may be able to add their observations and experiences as well.
You should have plained the deck of your block
Thank you for watching my video. In an ideal world , with access to advanced tools to pull and remove the motor, yes that would be nice to take the block to a machine shop to have it professionally surfaced to be flat. However I was just replacing the head, and the old head was not leaking when bolted to the block so I knew it was reasonably ok. If I were having the engine rebuilt, most definitely having the top deck of the block machined flat professionally (as well as the manifold/intake side) would be included while the engine is out of the car.
The top surface of the block is not looking too good to put a gasket on it. I would definitely tear apart the complete engine and send it to a machine shop to reface the top side.
Thanks for watching my video. I did do some work on the top deck of the block to smooth it out a bit and improve the contact surface for installing a new gasket. The good thing about copper gaskets is they are more forgiving if the block and head are not exactly perfectly machined- they help fill in the gaps so to speak. This engine block is on its last rebuild, I would not have gone though the effort to take it out and have a machine shop work on it just to put a new head on it. The top of the pistons indicate 0.120 bore, that is about the largest you can go for a Model A cylinder before you need to do something more drastic like re-sleeve the cylinder walls. The good news is after a few hundred miles so far, the new head and gasket are holding up fine- no leaks! A key thing to success is to remember to RE-TORQUE the head nuts after driving a bit! Installing a new head is not just a one time effort to tighten down the nuts/bolts and then you are done. I am going to happily drive it around as long as I can. The crankshaft bearings are also wearing out, I had the babbitt inspected and the shims adjusted by a mechanic to help extend the life of the engine a little longer.
@@dougfierro7155 Keep doing what you're doing, it will get you by for the time being. Sometimes engine builders tend to make it sound so difficult, that it wear's one out. Recall the old boys from the first of production, and on 40-50 years; no torque wrenches, they kept them running. Thanks for the video.😄
If these guys don't know the basics what you're telling. They should not be trying to work on their model A..