One suggestion: When it's time to replace those SHINGLES, put on a METAL roof, on your house too. So glad I did. Took me six weeks in between rains with no help. I also used the Thick tar paper (30#). Metal roofs ARE cheaper (at least in the long run). Had mine since 1999, and it almost looks the same as when I put it up 23 years ago at this ✍ writing. I think metal roofs are rated around 50 or 60 years, but can last much longer. " Never be afraid to buy the Very Best, you will ALWAYS be 😊 Happy with it ". .
Ever have second thoughts regarding the small size of that window you installed? I bet a larger window would have served you better. Also, did you loft this tall beast hopefully? Great job on taking it on by yourself. It looks awesome.
I haven't had any issue with the window, but now that you mention it - they are rather minimal. They let in enough light, and they provide for a little cross-flow of air. They serve my purposes and they don't interfere with shelving, etc. I don't have any second thoughts about it. The first garage I built like this had no windows. This garage isn't tall enough for lofting since I used standard trusses. I'm glad I put in an 8' high door instead of 7' like I did in my first build. However, I do kinda wish I had a 9' high door. My 6x12 toy hauler camper with AC doesn't quite fit inside, and I wish it did! Thanks for your kind comments.
The "thickened slab" around the perimeter was 12" deep. This thickened section was 8" wide at the bottom and 10-12 " wide at the top. This makes the footing for the wall on this floating slab.
Well, I can tell you how I did it. After laying and grouting blocks onto the slab, I drilled holes into the footings at the required locations and spacing. Straight anchor bolts were epoxied into the slab and these anchors met the required 'pull out' ratings. Where the bolts were, I filled the block cells with mortar and then laid my treated sill plates. After putting holes in the right spots, I could bolt the sill plate down and the blocks were firmly sandwiched between the sill plate and the slab. I don't recall the length of the bolts; I'm guessing they were 18-20" to get the required embedment (~6"). I then built my wall and secured it on top of the sill plate. A double base plate is not required, but it worked out nice for me. I used 6" wide blocks and a 6" treated sill plate, so the hollow block cells are not exposed. I like the finished look of it.
@@HandyHermit Thank you so much for explaining. I wish more people were like you. Most of the time you ask something on Social media the first thing people do is make fun of you instead of teaching you
SO, after everyone asked "HOW MUCH DID IT COST" You are not saying, Hmmm. Maybe someone else paid for it and he don't know the answer. Or maybe someone else did the whole job and we viewed only some pics to look like he did it, lol. Nice Job !!!!!!!!!!!
Could you list all the materials you used? Single parent and I at least would like to know what to buy at a doable pace to then just have someone do it. If possible thank you.
I think the best way to do what you're thinking would be to stop by the lumber desk at one of the home improvement stores. They have software tools to work with you and print out a bill of material for whatever size garage you want and whatever type of material you want to use. (Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, etc)
There were 11 trusses (20 ft / 2ft spacing). These 20' trusses run about $100 each at the local Menards ($1,100 total). I tipped them up myself using a rope and a temporary, vertical stud to stop them in the upright position.
@@anello16 These 20' trusses are manageable for a single person. It's tricky, but if you are slow and careful, you can be very successful. I moved the trusses from the staging area into the garage. I lifted one end up onto the top sill. I then lifted the other end up to the other top sill such that the truss was hanging upside down. I then nailed a couple long studs vertically onto the outside of the back wall; these were stops for the tipping up the first truss. I also put stop blocks at the end of both sill plates, as stops for the lower part of the truss. I then proceeded to use another long stud to tip the end truss up against the vertical studs. I also had a rope and pully from the backside that allowed me to hold the truss in position. I should have recruited a hand for the first tip-up since it is the most precarious one. The structure gets more secure with every truss that gets lifted and secured into place. I'll see if I can share a video of this process, and I will comment here again if I post something.
@@HandyHermit thanks for the reply. I would love to see that process in motion as I am interested in building a shop myself. Your’s looks great. Excellent job.
No troubles. The lot is about 100 x 170 feet and the city has a formula that limits both the total footprint of buildings relative to the lot and also the total garage space relative to the house's floorplan. Using their formulas, I calculated that a 20x20 was permissible and upon review of my permit and plans, the inspector agreed.
Yes. Within the city limits of this Minnesota town, I needed a permit. They held me to certain building codes that I would not have otherwise known about. First and foremost, I needed a single course of block to meet the requirements of distancing organic building material from the ground. This was a new requirement compared to the similar garage that I built 20 years ago. Also, the authorities having jurisdiction required at least a 5/12 pitch on the roof whereas a 4/12 pitch was adequate on my last shed (20 years ago in a nearby town).
So, I had about $10,000 of material and groundwork into this. I hired a friend with a Bobcat to clear the sod and build the sand base. I poured the concrete with 5 friends. This base work was about $25 of the cost. I bought all the material at our local Menards. They are well stocked and economically priced. I bought the material in a few batches and had the delivery truck drop it in my yard.
Sorry for the late reply. I didn't see any of these comments until today. These two items are answered above. I appreciate your interest and the opportunity to help you plan yours.
When I built one 20 years ago, 400 sqft was the limit allowed by the City that I lived in at that time. In this new City and location, the allowable size is based on a complicated formula: It is based on a percentage of lot size less house footprint, and then they deduct attached garage space to calculate allowable detached garage space. The allowable number that I was coming up with was a little less than 400 square feet. Despite this, I proceed to submit a permit request for 400 sqft (20x20) and it was accepted.
No plans available. I submitted my permit request with a general layout, a few detail sketches, and a bill of material that listed my trusses, framing members, and sheathing. That was good enough for my city inspector.
The walls are built with 10' studs. There is a single course of block on which the wall and seal plate resides. So, top of concrete to truss bottom is 11' 3". I built a garage like this one 20 years ago, and it had 8' walls and a 7' door. It was one of the aspects that I wanted to differently this time around. I installed an 8' high door in addition to the 10' stud walls. The extra height is sooo nice. It doesn't cost much more and it gives a lot of extra storage space (25% more volume)!
Really good video. Thanks!!
Very helpful video, Thank you for taking the time to share. you've helped me get a clear idea of what I need to do to complete my 20 x 20 project.
Excellent! Glad to hear that. Thank you.
One suggestion: When it's time to replace those SHINGLES, put on a METAL roof, on your house too. So glad I did. Took me six weeks in between rains with no help. I also used the Thick tar paper (30#). Metal roofs ARE cheaper (at least in the long run). Had mine since 1999, and it almost looks the same as when I put it up 23 years ago at this ✍ writing. I think metal roofs are rated around 50 or 60 years, but can last much longer.
" Never be afraid to buy the Very Best, you will ALWAYS be 😊 Happy with it ".
.
Alright you can come build me one now! Good video bud!
LOL. Thanks for the kind comments.
Great work ... Sharing to others in Virginia Beach
Thank you. I appreciate the comment.
Nice work! What’s the funky tune playing during the video?
Thank you. I'm not sure what the name of the 'funky tune' is. It was just some royalty-free soundbyte that I dug up on the ol' internet.
Nice Job on your garage.
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate the feedback.
Ever have second thoughts regarding the small size of that window you installed? I bet a larger window would have served you better. Also, did you loft this tall beast hopefully?
Great job on taking it on by yourself. It looks awesome.
I haven't had any issue with the window, but now that you mention it - they are rather minimal. They let in enough light, and they provide for a little cross-flow of air. They serve my purposes and they don't interfere with shelving, etc. I don't have any second thoughts about it. The first garage I built like this had no windows. This garage isn't tall enough for lofting since I used standard trusses. I'm glad I put in an 8' high door instead of 7' like I did in my first build. However, I do kinda wish I had a 9' high door. My 6x12 toy hauler camper with AC doesn't quite fit inside, and I wish it did! Thanks for your kind comments.
what is the depth of the footer?
The "thickened slab" around the perimeter was 12" deep. This thickened section was 8" wide at the bottom and 10-12 " wide at the top. This makes the footing for the wall on this floating slab.
@dj55308 thank you. what is the frost line?
@@mikeso5963 The Frost line in Minnesota is 80 inches. We are second only to Alaska.
What size block did you use for that 1 row
I used 16x8x6. They are only 6" wide and a treated 2x6 fits nicely upon it (for a sill plate).
@@HandyHermit how did you anchor the plate/s to the block?
RIP that nice lawn lol it'll be back to normal ASAP 😂
Can someone please explain how to attach the framed wall to the bottom concrete blocks? Thanks
Well, I can tell you how I did it. After laying and grouting blocks onto the slab, I drilled holes into the footings at the required locations and spacing. Straight anchor bolts were epoxied into the slab and these anchors met the required 'pull out' ratings. Where the bolts were, I filled the block cells with mortar and then laid my treated sill plates. After putting holes in the right spots, I could bolt the sill plate down and the blocks were firmly sandwiched between the sill plate and the slab. I don't recall the length of the bolts; I'm guessing they were 18-20" to get the required embedment (~6"). I then built my wall and secured it on top of the sill plate. A double base plate is not required, but it worked out nice for me. I used 6" wide blocks and a 6" treated sill plate, so the hollow block cells are not exposed. I like the finished look of it.
@@HandyHermit Thank you so much for explaining. I wish more people were like you. Most of the time you ask something on Social media the first thing people do is make fun of you instead of teaching you
SO, after everyone asked "HOW MUCH DID IT COST" You are not saying, Hmmm. Maybe someone else paid for it and he don't know the answer. Or maybe someone else did the whole job and we viewed only some pics to look like he did it, lol. Nice Job !!!!!!!!!!!
He hasn't responded to any comments, maybe he just isn't looking at them 🤦♂️
@@bmx4158 You are correct. Very perceptive of you. Brilliantly deduced.
What was your approximately cost
Total cost was about $10,000. The floating slab & foundation was about $3,500 of that.
Total cost today would be 20-30K
Could you list all the materials you used? Single parent and I at least would like to know what to buy at a doable pace to then just have someone do it. If possible thank you.
I think the best way to do what you're thinking would be to stop by the lumber desk at one of the home improvement stores. They have software tools to work with you and print out a bill of material for whatever size garage you want and whatever type of material you want to use. (Menards, Home Depot, Lowes, etc)
I wish you could show how did you build the 20' framing by yourself
Thanks for the feedback. I actually have time-lapse of most of this that I could share. I might just do that for kicks as per your suggestion.
@@HandyHermit Please share and the shed looks awesome. I like the regulation of the cinder block at the bottom.
@@realstaceylewis Thanks for the encouragement. I have started putting it together. I'll post an update when it is finished (probably a couple weeks).
@Mad Dox A new Framing Video has been uploaded. th-cam.com/video/qm_mpacx1fA/w-d-xo.html
@Stacey Lewis A new framing video has been uploaded. th-cam.com/video/qm_mpacx1fA/w-d-xo.html
How much was the truss set up? How many trusses and how much ?
There were 11 trusses (20 ft / 2ft spacing). These 20' trusses run about $100 each at the local Menards ($1,100 total). I tipped them up myself using a rope and a temporary, vertical stud to stop them in the upright position.
How did you get the trusses up?
@@anello16 These 20' trusses are manageable for a single person. It's tricky, but if you are slow and careful, you can be very successful. I moved the trusses from the staging area into the garage. I lifted one end up onto the top sill. I then lifted the other end up to the other top sill such that the truss was hanging upside down. I then nailed a couple long studs vertically onto the outside of the back wall; these were stops for the tipping up the first truss. I also put stop blocks at the end of both sill plates, as stops for the lower part of the truss. I then proceeded to use another long stud to tip the end truss up against the vertical studs. I also had a rope and pully from the backside that allowed me to hold the truss in position. I should have recruited a hand for the first tip-up since it is the most precarious one. The structure gets more secure with every truss that gets lifted and secured into place. I'll see if I can share a video of this process, and I will comment here again if I post something.
@@HandyHermit thanks for the reply. I would love to see that process in motion as I am interested in building a shop myself. Your’s looks great. Excellent job.
Did you have trouble with building codes in such a relatively small back yard?
No troubles. The lot is about 100 x 170 feet and the city has a formula that limits both the total footprint of buildings relative to the lot and also the total garage space relative to the house's floorplan. Using their formulas, I calculated that a 20x20 was permissible and upon review of my permit and plans, the inspector agreed.
@@HandyHermit nice, i am looking ( for property that allows for an outbuilding) in NW indiana and most towns have silly limits. Thanx
Here in june 2021 that would cost 50k to 60k to build with the outrageous price of lumber then another 20k in finishing it off
Yes, I think it would be quite a bit more expensive with today's prices!
nice shed! what's the height for the walls?
I used 10' studs, so with the block and sill/top plates, the walls were about 11' high.
Great job 👏 I’m thinking of building one too. I’m just curious did you have to pull a permit or not.
Thank you. Yes, I filed a permit with the city. There's no way around it when you live in an urban area.
Did u needed a permit?
Yes. Within the city limits of this Minnesota town, I needed a permit. They held me to certain building codes that I would not have otherwise known about. First and foremost, I needed a single course of block to meet the requirements of distancing organic building material from the ground. This was a new requirement compared to the similar garage that I built 20 years ago. Also, the authorities having jurisdiction required at least a 5/12 pitch on the roof whereas a 4/12 pitch was adequate on my last shed (20 years ago in a nearby town).
how much did this all cost?
So, I had about $10,000 of material and groundwork into this. I hired a friend with a Bobcat to clear the sod and build the sand base. I poured the concrete with 5 friends. This base work was about $25 of the cost. I bought all the material at our local Menards. They are well stocked and economically priced. I bought the material in a few batches and had the delivery truck drop it in my yard.
Cost?
How tall are the side walls? Approximately how much did this project cost? Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply. I didn't see any of these comments until today. These two items are answered above. I appreciate your interest and the opportunity to help you plan yours.
How did you determine the size?
When I built one 20 years ago, 400 sqft was the limit allowed by the City that I lived in at that time. In this new City and location, the allowable size is based on a complicated formula: It is based on a percentage of lot size less house footprint, and then they deduct attached garage space to calculate allowable detached garage space. The allowable number that I was coming up with was a little less than 400 square feet. Despite this, I proceed to submit a permit request for 400 sqft (20x20) and it was accepted.
How much it cost you for all material?
Material was about $6,500 (2018 prices). This does not include the concrete.
plans
No plans available. I submitted my permit request with a general layout, a few detail sketches, and a bill of material that listed my trusses, framing members, and sheathing. That was good enough for my city inspector.
How tall are the side walls? Approximately how much did this project cost? Thanks!
The walls are built with 10' studs. There is a single course of block on which the wall and seal plate resides. So, top of concrete to truss bottom is 11' 3". I built a garage like this one 20 years ago, and it had 8' walls and a 7' door. It was one of the aspects that I wanted to differently this time around. I installed an 8' high door in addition to the 10' stud walls. The extra height is sooo nice. It doesn't cost much more and it gives a lot of extra storage space (25% more volume)!
Cost?
See comments below.