Many thanks, my brother for this wonderful instructional video, it really helped my mechanic here in Nigeria to stop my engine from overheating, having removed the thermostat( his reason being that we're in the tropics, which he replaced after your video) May you really be blessed
BRO. perfect video. I followed your steps and got that temp sensor out of there and a new one bolted down into the vehicle. thanks for taking the time to do this video friend.
The ac condenser fan comes on two ways, with ac on once the head pressures hits 250-300 psi the ecm turns it on. If the ac is off and the engine temperature reaches a high temperature the ecm will turn it on to help the viscous fan.
Same overheating happened to my 2005 while stuck in traffic. Im not sure if you mentioned the part numbers for both, the one close to the ac fan and the sensor itself. Also please mention the part supplier's name and pbone number so that i can order it. Im in Dallas texas. Thank you
Thanks for posting this. Mine is doing this also. I looked I the description I got the part number on the coolent temp sensor what's the part number on the ambient temp sensor and where did you order it from? Mine is the same color but 2005
I have a similar problem, when the car is idle the cooling is not great. Then when I check the fan turns on some time and some times it won’t. Do you think by replacing this part would solve the issue
When I drive up the canyon my tundra starts to over heat Iv change the thermostat out 3 times and one flush. Could it possible be the sensor. ? When I drive in the Vally or city no trouble but going up hill load it start to over heat ? Any info helps. Thanks
@@skiffman10 Hi - My 2006 Tundra has a "Check Engine” light on. So, I brought to Auto Zone to diagnose. A diagnose report shows a PO138 error code indicates a bad Oxygen Sensor on Bank1 per Auto Zone. So, Auto Zone sold me a Down Stream Oxygen sensor to replace on Bank1 that is on a driver side. As I crawl under a truck to look for a bad sensor on a driver side, I notice there are 4 Oxygen sensors. Two on a driver side and two is on a passenger side (one is located before a CAT converter , I believe they are called Up Stream sensor, Down Stream sensor. Please correct me if I am wrong. I set a volts meter to check Continuity of those four sensors: *Two sensors locate BEFORE a CAT converter have 2.5 and 2.7. *Two sensors locate AFTER a CAT converter have 12.2 and 12.5. *A new Down Stream sensor bought from Auto Zone has 13.1. So, which one of the four sensors is a bad sensor to replace? Or what other test should I do? Thank you so much!
On your last comment to test it and tow the the boat, did it fix the trouble? I’m having same issue 2006 sequoia starts blowing warm air, and I can smell the antifreeze/coolant and I see where the antifreeze sprayed out like yours only when sitting in traffic or a drive through on a hot day out here in the hot Central Valley of California, my electric fan comes on when a/c is on, dealer (big mistake) said it was my radiator cap leaking from a split gasket and not holding pressure, so now I have worlds most expensive radiator cap ($200, 180 diagnostics, 20 part) and it still has same symptoms, I asked about the temperature sensor and they said the next step would be a new radiator, told them to pound sand and also on the 570 + tax they quoted me on a new alternator, I removed it myself took it to a shop had it rebuilt for 120. So now looking my next step is the temp sensor and maybe a thermostat, thanks for the video and your time.
@@jjwilson2734 yeah, same issue, I’m gonna check that sensor that you talked about on the fan, I also need to test the fan, when I open the hood, it’s spinning but is it from the air being pulled in by the e engine fan or is it actually running
I have a tundra 06’ 4.0L. Bought it with 34k miles in 09’. Had to have transmission replaced at 62k miles. Now,radiator/trans part cracked and contamination was done at 85k miles. Flushed,replaced radiator,cap,and thermostat. Kept shuddering. Replaced carrier bearing 5 times and all 3 u-joints twice. Flushed out 4 times at 8 gals.each flush,and still shuddering. This was my dream truck and bought it same day older lady traded it in. Guess I won’t do that anymore but love Toyota’s. Trading this one in soon for a 2020 Subaru Forrester. This truck made me insane.😎
Sorry to hear. I own 4, all used buys and 3 of 4 have 180k miles+. I've never had a single transmission issue ever and I tow heavy stuff thousands of miles. Are you towing a house around? Seems like it may have been wrecked to chew up Spicer U-joints AND the internal parts of a transmission. I can't hate on a Subaru but if your dream truck is a Suburu how is the next move an SUV?
@@skiffman10 No,my dream truck was the tundra,but I’m thinking of getting a Subaru. It was never wrecked and still looks new. Just towed a 16’ flatboat with a 35hp for about maybe 12 fishing trips.
Tengo ese problema que se caliente, ya cambie bomba del agua, fan clouch, termostato, limpie el radioador y cambie el tapón del mismo. Pero sigue calentandose. Creo que ese sensor va a ser el del problema. Ya gaste mucho dinero y no queda. Compré partes de agencia y no queda.
Historia corta en El puente mexico -usa. Se calento la Mia regreso El agua por El contender Blanco solo en ralenti y con El ac a todo. Solo cambie El ventilador del condensador y ya jamas se calento y eso fue un año atras revisa q prenda El ventilador cuando pongas El ac y cambia El termostato por uno de agencia y listo
I’m having same issue, even after I have replaced this part, JJ messaged me, sounds like he’s still having trouble, I will post here if I come with something, or if JJ finds something.
I have a 2006 with 243k miles and a/c seems to be decent when traveling at highway speed but when i stop at a light the a/c starts getting warm. i was told it was because the cooling fan isn't working so i came to youtube to see if it could be anything else. did you replace the cooling fan?
Hey Bobby. No I did not. The a/c would blow warm only when the engine temp was rising so I was almost certain that my issue was related to cooling the engine not the a/c system itself. If the engine temp was steady as it had always been and the a/c was blowing warm I'd be first looking to check the refrigerant on the low pressure side (grey cap with "L" on it). If it is low (check while engine and a/c running) you might have a leak in that system which might be fixable with a can of leak seal ($25-30 with cheap gauge included). I did this on my wife's Highlander and that fix has lasted about 2 years and blows ice cold air still. Exploring this option is cheaper than going to a mechanic. Also before I ever had this issue I could hear my cooling fan kick on occasionally. This is most noticeable with the radio, a/c off, and windows up when accelerating from 0-25mph when the engine is warm. Note this does not happen every single time you accelerate but try it a few times and you can hear it. On my deal I figured it was the sensor or then fan because when the temperature was rising above normal the fan was not kicking at all at idle speeds and only going 35-40+mph was helping cool the engine. Also even when the a/c was off the engine was running warm. Had the sensor not done the trick on cooling the engine I'd be inspecting the radiator fluid for debris (i.e. fouled radiator) or looking to other cheap possible fixes prior to replacing the fan and radiator like the thermostat and gasket. However by the time you start spending money for a new fan and/or radiator for no reason it would be cheaper to get a diagnosis from a mechanic. If I can figure something out I don't mind telling a mechanic why I am there and that I am happy to pay them for their time.
Best I could tell it was the electric Fan in front of the AC. Never ran hot again. At 300,000 miles the front end finally gave way. Needed a lot of work, $$$. Mechanic said sell it, so. Sold it for parts and bought another Toyota.
The AC continued to cool while driving and heat up when stopped. Never fixed it. Got another 50,000 miles before it just needed to much maintenance. Sorry, for the first response. Had it heat up once while driving and had that on my mind. Reread your question and a more appropriate answer
Good question because mine only turns on for a minute than shuts off.. but I should mention that my sequoia(05) ac works as it should and it does not have overheating issues. I’m just getting ready to swap the leaking radiator
Hello, I’m watching your video and it’s super helpful. I just noticed that there is a valve type underneath the temperature sensor at about 9:00 in your video. I’m noticing that it’s connected to a hose. What is that part called I’m noticing mine doesn’t have the hose attached to it. Thanks
if the coolant temp sensor went bad then your coolant temp reading on the gauge wouldn't be corrected but it would have nothing to do with your car running hotter than normal.either fans were bad ( u said the front condenser fan didn't work) or the thermostat were stuck close.
Sorry to hear. Have you checked your valve cover and spark plug gaskets for sign of leakage? What you describe happened on friend's 4Runner, same exact engine as mine, and we found that he was overheating due to lower than normal oil levels between oil changes. A few thousand miles after a change the oil level would slowly but eventually be at the bottom of the dip stick (approx 1 quart low) and would run warm under heavy loads in hot conditions. We couldn't smell oil burning or really see evidence of it on the ground however upon inspection we found a great deal of oil spilled into plug banks and more oil running out of the back of the valve cover gaskets (2) down the back of the engine because the gaskets (mainly rear drivers side) was simply warn out. The kit to replace is about $60 and the repair took a little over an hour for each side of the engine. After the fix he was not leaking and this solved his issue similar to yours.
Coolant temp sensor affects a lot things like rough idle, shifting transmission, more importantly it tells ECU to signal cooling fans. When they start to fail they'll send extra fuel to injectors which will trip code for running too rich on top of coolant sensor fail code. It's a good idea to flush coolant when you replacing sensor due to acidic coolant. Which is why sensor and water pump internals fail from coolant eating them away.
Yes!!!!..and thanks for asking. I tested it on a 80 mile trip this weekend towing a 5000+ lb load in really steep hills and at 2k to 4k RPMs, air temp in the mid to high 80s, with A/C blasting the whole way. Electric fan was noticeably running as it should and temp needle on the dash never moved from just below midway on the gauge so I am sold this was it.
Hola Roberto! ¿Está funcionando el motor caliente? El ventilador funciona a velocidades variables, así que empuje el cable del acelerador desde debajo del capó y vea si va más rápido al presionar el acelerador. Si está viendo esto a RPM en vacío, es normal incluso cuando el motor está a temperatura normal. Si no, verificaría su nivel de aceite, luego el nivel de refrigerante (busque contaminantes en el fluido) y tal vez reemplace el sensor en el video.
Yes but never while the engine was running warm as it did that first instance. Trying to repeat the symptom was very difficult as it was only happening during specific conditions - coming into traffic after towing 6klbs of boat for hours on the interstate, extreme heat/humidity, etc. Tried replicating several times by towning around town and could not get it to act up and re-run codes.
I'm having the exact same problem it's only happened twice now, pulling my travel trailer about 6klbs , but it NEVER THROW any codes or Check engine light. Did your throw a check engine light? Also I pulled mine off it's a 19mm deep socket BTW . I checked mine with an ohmmeter its reading 1.7-1.5 . These should be at 2 ohms . I just ordered a sensor from my local dealer . $60 Hope this helps my problems. I will follow up on my results.
I had the same exact thing happen to me I mean frame for frame only wers my car the alcoholic lock thing on it so I had to toe it and all that but the thing was actually easy to put in and take out bs alot of bs tho for what it was lmao
So my assembly is opposite U see where u took off the 4.7 cover Theres a plug that lookslike the maf sensor but is like cpu on your right hand side Mines on same side as the temp sensor N again i have a skinny unused unplugged sensor nipple directly next to that sensor u replaced I bought mine in central florida but live in southern utah i have 176000 mi And replaced brake booster n master cylinder pressure sensors recently
Couldn't disconnect the air cleaner box plus the other end so much easier and simpler to do just get a tripod for your camera phone or your camera and then you won't have to worry about I know this is a little high side to three years later you look like you're fumbling bumbling.
Ah yes thanks for the kind words/suggestion. I have a tripod but at times I get stuck without camera equipment or anyone to help film but my priority is to help others first then my own repair maybe at the expense of fumbling bumbling.
Min 4:00, I agree , I'm done american made vehicle .... they don't last .... have a 2018 Silverado w/120k miles, transmission went out, spend $4k out of my pocket.. its bullshit...
While researching my problem I found your video and 2 different but similar part numbers for same vehicle, I was about to order the part you showed but I just pulled my part out, part number is stamped into brass, my part is 89422-33030
I really don't like the fact you buy a quality part say it best and tested but yet disobey the rules of installation. Very contridicting. If your going to not torque spec it and not disconnect the battery then that defeats the concept of buying a quality part. If your going to do it correctly.. fine that's fine... do it the correct way. All you had to do if leave that part out. It's honestly really hard to mess up to manufacture a sensor like this. So testing is really not relevant. Plus most autoparts stores have lifetime warranty on them.
Keith Keiths I guess you assume I am somehow a mechanic. I am just a regular dude trying share a fix that worked for me. Geeeeez....easy does it bro. Do your own research and do what works for you.
The sensor should be torqued to around 12-14lbs from my experience. Most people who regularly work on cars have a feel for torque without a wrench. Snug and an 1/8th of a turn is pretty dang close. Most professional mechanics don't run for a torque wrench for every nut or bolt,bit just comes with experience. There's some things that should always be torqued but most aren't critical.
Many thanks, my brother for this wonderful instructional video, it really helped my mechanic here in Nigeria to stop my engine from overheating, having removed the thermostat( his reason being that we're in the tropics, which he replaced after your video)
May you really be blessed
BRO. perfect video. I followed your steps and got that temp sensor out of there and a new one bolted down into the vehicle. thanks for taking the time to do this video friend.
My 06 Sequoia just had this issue today. I'm gonna try replacing both sensors. Thanks for the video.
..nice bro..I own a 2006 sequoia 4x4 and love it. Wouldn't get rid of it 186k miles and running strong
La mía tiene 298.000
The ac condenser fan comes on two ways, with ac on once the head pressures hits 250-300 psi the ecm turns it on. If the ac is off and the engine temperature reaches a high temperature the ecm will turn it on to help the viscous fan.
yes mine comes on only when ac is turned on plus replaced the temp sensor.
Same overheating happened to my 2005 while stuck in traffic. Im not sure if you mentioned the part numbers for both, the one close to the ac fan and the sensor itself. Also please mention the part supplier's name and pbone number so that i can order it. Im in Dallas texas. Thank you
Thanks for posting this. Mine is doing this also. I looked I the description I got the part number on the coolent temp sensor what's the part number on the ambient temp sensor and where did you order it from? Mine is the same color but 2005
Do you think the same part would fit in a 2006
Excellent video, I have a 2013 tundra and it fixed my problem. Thanks
I have a similar problem, when the car is idle the cooling is not great. Then when I check the fan turns on some time and some times it won’t. Do you think by replacing this part would solve the issue
When I drive up the canyon my tundra starts to over heat Iv change the thermostat out 3 times and one flush. Could it possible be the sensor. ? When I drive in the Vally or city no trouble but going up hill load it start to over heat ? Any info helps. Thanks
What's the part number for the first part you changed please?
thanks for sharing I'm going to apply it in my 2003 sequoia
Thank you so much for the information I think I got the same problem so I'm going to try to fix it and thank you again
I hope by changing out the sensor it will fix the fan problem.
Thanks for sharing.
So how did you fix your coolant splattering on your battery and such?
Thank you so much for your detail instructional video. It's very helpful for my replacement.
You're welcome. I'f there are other Toyota related topics you'd like to see let me know. I have tons of unedited footage I haven't posted yet.
@@skiffman10 Thanks for you kindly sharing!
@@skiffman10 Hi - My 2006 Tundra has a "Check Engine” light on. So, I brought to Auto Zone to diagnose. A diagnose report shows a PO138 error code indicates a bad Oxygen Sensor on Bank1 per Auto Zone. So, Auto Zone sold me a Down Stream Oxygen sensor to replace on Bank1 that is on a driver side.
As I crawl under a truck to look for a bad sensor on a driver side, I notice there are 4 Oxygen sensors. Two on a driver side and two is on a passenger side (one is located before a CAT converter , I believe they are called Up Stream sensor, Down Stream sensor. Please correct me if I am wrong.
I set a volts meter to check Continuity of those four sensors:
*Two sensors locate BEFORE a CAT converter have 2.5 and 2.7.
*Two sensors locate AFTER a CAT converter have 12.2 and 12.5.
*A new Down Stream sensor bought from Auto Zone has 13.1.
So, which one of the four sensors is a bad sensor to replace? Or what other test should I do? Thank you so much!
@@swathom99hi did you ever get closure to this?
On your last comment to test it and tow the the boat, did it fix the trouble? I’m having same issue 2006 sequoia starts blowing warm air, and I can smell the antifreeze/coolant and I see where the antifreeze sprayed out like yours only when sitting in traffic or a drive through on a hot day out here in the hot Central Valley of California, my electric fan comes on when a/c is on, dealer (big mistake) said it was my radiator cap leaking from a split gasket and not holding pressure, so now I have worlds most expensive radiator cap ($200, 180 diagnostics, 20 part) and it still has same symptoms, I asked about the temperature sensor and they said the next step would be a new radiator, told them to pound sand and also on the 570 + tax they quoted me on a new alternator, I removed it myself took it to a shop had it rebuilt for 120. So now looking my next step is the temp sensor and maybe a thermostat, thanks for the video and your time.
did you ever change the sensor
my ac sucks right now as well
@@jjwilson2734 yeah, same issue, I’m gonna check that sensor that you talked about on the fan, I also need to test the fan, when I open the hood, it’s spinning but is it from the air being pulled in by the e engine fan or is it actually running
Killed it bro, thanks!
Wait at 5:21 u call it the ambient air temperature sensor? You meant the coolant temperature sensor yes?
Thakns a lot.....from Bolivia.
Did that fix your problem?
This wasn’t the problem
Can you please send the part number for the ambient air temperature sensor?
I have a tundra 06’ 4.0L. Bought it with 34k miles in 09’. Had to have transmission replaced at 62k miles. Now,radiator/trans part cracked and contamination was done at 85k miles. Flushed,replaced radiator,cap,and thermostat. Kept shuddering. Replaced carrier bearing 5 times and all 3 u-joints twice. Flushed out 4 times at 8 gals.each flush,and still shuddering. This was my dream truck and bought it same day older lady traded it in. Guess I won’t do that anymore but love Toyota’s. Trading this one in soon for a 2020 Subaru Forrester. This truck made me insane.😎
Sorry to hear. I own 4, all used buys and 3 of 4 have 180k miles+. I've never had a single transmission issue ever and I tow heavy stuff thousands of miles. Are you towing a house around? Seems like it may have been wrecked to chew up Spicer U-joints AND the internal parts of a transmission.
I can't hate on a Subaru but if your dream truck is a Suburu how is the next move an SUV?
@@skiffman10 No,my dream truck was the tundra,but I’m thinking of getting a Subaru. It was never wrecked and still looks new. Just towed a 16’ flatboat with a 35hp for about maybe 12 fishing trips.
Next door to sensor u have hose running somewhere.whats that?
Yes what is this hose?
Tengo ese problema que se caliente, ya cambie bomba del agua, fan clouch, termostato, limpie el radioador y cambie el tapón del mismo.
Pero sigue calentandose. Creo que ese sensor va a ser el del problema.
Ya gaste mucho dinero y no queda. Compré partes de agencia y no queda.
Tengo el mismo problema, lo solucionaste cual fue la solución por favor te agradecería
si le sirvo
Historia corta en El puente mexico -usa. Se calento la Mia regreso El agua por El contender Blanco solo en ralenti y con El ac a todo. Solo cambie El ventilador del condensador y ya jamas se calento y eso fue un año atras revisa q prenda El ventilador cuando pongas El ac y cambia El termostato por uno de agencia y listo
Thanks for video. I have the same problem with that fan not turning on. I have 2004 sequoia sr5 . Do you think that same part will fix issue?
I’m having same issue, even after I have replaced this part, JJ messaged me, sounds like he’s still having trouble, I will post here if I come with something, or if JJ finds something.
I have a 2006 with 243k miles and a/c seems to be decent when traveling at highway speed but when i stop at a light the a/c starts getting warm. i was told it was because the cooling fan isn't working so i came to youtube to see if it could be anything else. did you replace the cooling fan?
Hey Bobby. No I did not. The a/c would blow warm only when the engine temp was rising so I was almost certain that my issue was related to cooling the engine not the a/c system itself. If the engine temp was steady as it had always been and the a/c was blowing warm I'd be first looking to check the refrigerant on the low pressure side (grey cap with "L" on it). If it is low (check while engine and a/c running) you might have a leak in that system which might be fixable with a can of leak seal ($25-30 with cheap gauge included). I did this on my wife's Highlander and that fix has lasted about 2 years and blows ice cold air still. Exploring this option is cheaper than going to a mechanic.
Also before I ever had this issue I could hear my cooling fan kick on occasionally. This is most noticeable with the radio, a/c off, and windows up when accelerating from 0-25mph when the engine is warm. Note this does not happen every single time you accelerate but try it a few times and you can hear it. On my deal I figured it was the sensor or then fan because when the temperature was rising above normal the fan was not kicking at all at idle speeds and only going 35-40+mph was helping cool the engine. Also even when the a/c was off the engine was running warm. Had the sensor not done the trick on cooling the engine I'd be inspecting the radiator fluid for debris (i.e. fouled radiator) or looking to other cheap possible fixes prior to replacing the fan and radiator like the thermostat and gasket. However by the time you start spending money for a new fan and/or radiator for no reason it would be cheaper to get a diagnosis from a mechanic. If I can figure something out I don't mind telling a mechanic why I am there and that I am happy to pay them for their time.
Bobby 2003 sequoia, same problem. Really, the only problem. 250k, and ac doesnt cool well till i press the gas.
@@johnmike7809 did you ever figure it out
Best I could tell it was the electric Fan in front of the AC. Never ran hot again. At 300,000 miles the front end finally gave way. Needed a lot of work, $$$. Mechanic said sell it, so. Sold it for parts and bought another Toyota.
The AC continued to cool while driving and heat up when stopped. Never fixed it. Got another 50,000 miles before it just needed to much maintenance.
Sorry, for the first response. Had it heat up once while driving and had that on my mind. Reread your question and a more appropriate answer
Hi does any of yall know if the ac condensor fan supose to be running all the time with the ac on ??
Good question because mine only turns on for a minute than shuts off.. but I should mention that my sequoia(05) ac works as it should and it does not have overheating issues. I’m just getting ready to swap the leaking radiator
Mine seqoia has a little sensor thats not connected next door also to this sensor
Its just like a bamboo reed stickin up
Hello,
I’m watching your video and it’s super helpful. I just noticed that there is a valve type underneath the temperature sensor at about 9:00 in your video. I’m noticing that it’s connected to a hose. What is that part called I’m noticing mine doesn’t have the hose attached to it. Thanks
Are you talking about the gray connector?
if the coolant temp sensor went bad then your coolant temp reading on the gauge wouldn't be corrected but it would have nothing to do with your car running hotter than normal.either fans were bad ( u said the front condenser fan didn't work) or the thermostat were stuck close.
?? Mines running hot just going down the street I'll try that I got a new radiator and thermostat and still runs hot
Sorry to hear. Have you checked your valve cover and spark plug gaskets for sign of leakage? What you describe happened on friend's 4Runner, same exact engine as mine, and we found that he was overheating due to lower than normal oil levels between oil changes. A few thousand miles after a change the oil level would slowly but eventually be at the bottom of the dip stick (approx 1 quart low) and would run warm under heavy loads in hot conditions. We couldn't smell oil burning or really see evidence of it on the ground however upon inspection we found a great deal of oil spilled into plug banks and more oil running out of the back of the valve cover gaskets (2) down the back of the engine because the gaskets (mainly rear drivers side) was simply warn out. The kit to replace is about $60 and the repair took a little over an hour for each side of the engine. After the fix he was not leaking and this solved his issue similar to yours.
Coolant temp sensor affects a lot things like rough idle, shifting transmission, more importantly it tells ECU to signal cooling fans. When they start to fail they'll send extra fuel to injectors which will trip code for running too rich on top of coolant sensor fail code. It's a good idea to flush coolant when you replacing sensor due to acidic coolant. Which is why sensor and water pump internals fail from coolant eating them away.
Great video, very clean ending on that Sequoia.
Did it work ?
Yes!!!!..and thanks for asking. I tested it on a 80 mile trip this weekend towing a 5000+ lb load in really steep hills and at 2k to 4k RPMs, air temp in the mid to high 80s, with A/C blasting the whole way. Electric fan was noticeably running as it should and temp needle on the dash never moved from just below midway on the gauge so I am sold this was it.
skiffman10 Mr. Skiffman, whats the name of the sensor next to the one you changed??? Mine is disconnected and I am a bit concerned
Was your Sequoia smelling hot before you change the part
Was your Sequoia smelling hot
Mi bentilador parese que siempre esta hapagado no lo siento con fuersa sequoia 02
Hola Roberto! ¿Está funcionando el motor caliente? El ventilador funciona a velocidades variables, así que empuje el cable del acelerador desde debajo del capó y vea si va más rápido al presionar el acelerador. Si está viendo esto a RPM en vacío, es normal incluso cuando el motor está a temperatura normal. Si no, verificaría su nivel de aceite, luego el nivel de refrigerante (busque contaminantes en el fluido) y tal vez reemplace el sensor en el video.
@@skiffman10 ok muchas grasias
Let it run for about 15 to 25 minutes to let it warm up and just watch temp inside cab
Did you have checked engine light and pulled any codes to confirm it was the coolant temperature sensor?
Yes but never while the engine was running warm as it did that first instance. Trying to repeat the symptom was very difficult as it was only happening during specific conditions - coming into traffic after towing 6klbs of boat for hours on the interstate, extreme heat/humidity, etc. Tried replicating several times by towning around town and could not get it to act up and re-run codes.
Was only smelling hot because coolant resevior was shooting coolant all over the front side of the engine. No oil smell or anything else.
I'm having the exact same problem it's only happened twice now, pulling my travel trailer about 6klbs , but it NEVER THROW any codes or Check engine light.
Did your throw a check engine light?
Also I pulled mine off it's a 19mm deep socket BTW . I checked mine with an ohmmeter its reading 1.7-1.5 . These should be at 2 ohms . I just ordered a sensor from my local dealer . $60
Hope this helps my problems. I will follow up on my results.
@@jeffrey9102 and then you didn't
Need more coolant in reservoir
Dealerships are always going to rip you off. If they would be honest they probably have more customers.
All parts are maid in Mexico that's cool
Right o. Time
I had the same exact thing happen to me I mean frame for frame only wers my car the alcoholic lock thing on it so I had to toe it and all that but the thing was actually easy to put in and take out bs alot of bs tho for what it was lmao
I think your thermostat is bad and is sticking open
So my assembly is opposite
U see where u took off the 4.7 cover
Theres a plug that lookslike the maf sensor but is like cpu on your right hand side
Mines on same side as the temp sensor
N again i have a skinny unused unplugged sensor nipple directly next to that sensor u replaced
I bought mine in central florida but live in southern utah i have 176000 mi
And replaced brake booster n master cylinder pressure sensors recently
Ok
Couldn't disconnect the air cleaner box plus the other end so much easier and simpler to do just get a tripod for your camera phone or your camera and then you won't have to worry about I know this is a little high side to three years later you look like you're fumbling bumbling.
Ah yes thanks for the kind words/suggestion. I have a tripod but at times I get stuck without camera equipment or anyone to help film but my priority is to help others first then my own repair maybe at the expense of fumbling bumbling.
Min 4:00, I agree , I'm done american made vehicle .... they don't last .... have a 2018 Silverado w/120k miles, transmission went out, spend $4k out of my pocket.. its bullshit...
Denso makes these for everybody. Car makers don't make their own sensors.
While researching my problem I found your video and 2 different but similar part numbers for same vehicle, I was about to order the part you showed but I just pulled my part out, part number is stamped into brass, my part is 89422-33030
I really don't like the fact you buy a quality part say it best and tested but yet disobey the rules of installation. Very contridicting. If your going to not torque spec it and not disconnect the battery then that defeats the concept of buying a quality part. If your going to do it correctly.. fine that's fine... do it the correct way. All you had to do if leave that part out. It's honestly really hard to mess up to manufacture a sensor like this. So testing is really not relevant. Plus most autoparts stores have lifetime warranty on them.
Keith Keiths I guess you assume I am somehow a mechanic. I am just a regular dude trying share a fix that worked for me. Geeeeez....easy does it bro. Do your own research and do what works for you.
The sensor should be torqued to around 12-14lbs from my experience. Most people who regularly work on cars have a feel for torque without a wrench. Snug and an 1/8th of a turn is pretty dang close. Most professional mechanics don't run for a torque wrench for every nut or bolt,bit just comes with experience. There's some things that should always be torqued but most aren't critical.