Very clear and well explained! I never thought I make a comment like this, but the resemblance is uncanny - go and have a listen to the voice of 'Brains' in Thunderbirds by Gerry Anderson!
For circular flanging you can get dimpling dies in just about any size...there are also a bunch of diy dimpling die videos online as well. I like the second option in this video because it can be used on compound shapes and curves. They all have a size limitation in that if the hole is too small, your only option is a dimpling die.
I have a full set of flanging dies out in the garage from back in my A&P days. Work structural repair. Mine are made of aluminum, made by a friend in the back shop at Lockheed Aeromod in SC.
Thanks for the tips homebuilt guy. Gotta get back to building, but I want that flanger 360. Ordered a shot put and a bigger mallet though, we'll see what happens.
liking the last roller type tool , the thing i do see that once the flange is being created / lifts up from the plate , the hole gets bigger , you should have a way to automaticly make it wider every time you increase the angle of the edge (can be done by moving the pivot with the rollers bending the flange down below the hole on the tool , its now right at the top roller and that causes the distance between the two side to stay the same or actually get smaller ) i can see ways of making it a table mounted object with a bearing in the center to rotate it around on a pilar and a crank that can realy speed the process up
Wasn't true about black Fords. Black was the cheapest colour paint, so all 'T's were black coming down the line as standard, unless you ordered another colour and paid extra. Not many took that option, but some did, and Ford did it.
Dimple dies work fine made in ally. We used them on 2mm racing seats for low-volume work. Honestly, I bet you could spin some out in hardwood? Either way up, I wouldn’t pay to have a machine shop spend hours making a set in steel.
Dear Sir, Thank you for the time and the creative energy you put in this video. It is an excellent know how video. Please do you know where i could buy tbe Alluminum Stick Flanget
I think, the Flanger-360 would be even better, if the 2 ends are identical, so, the stiff end similar to the tilting end. And when adjusting, the 2 pivots are adjusted simultaneously.
they are used in the automotive industry are made of metal and called " Dimple Dies" and come in 3/4 to 5" in size will various sized in between. some are available with a hydrolic assist
Can you share the regulations or restrictions for the design construction? For instance, how can we decide proper hole diameter, flange depth, the distance between holes and edges etc?
Could you possibly make a video showing the best way to do vertical embossing, such as in the formed-style ribs for the Hummel Ultracruiser? Do I just route out one side of the form block, then saw a dowel in half and shape it and mount it on the other side opposite that routed channel, then clamp/press the sheet between them? This is the best way I can think of to make sure all the ribs are uniform.
don't stuff around people spend the money get them made of steel use a small hydraulic garage press and get the whole lot done in a day and sell them on if you don't plan to reuse them there would only be 3 or 4 sizes you will need
How about the oval holes? Which tool flanges those? I'm thinking only the Flanging Stick because the others require symmetry.If one flange is good, I would think that a second flange at 45 degrees on the first one would be even stronger.. So in other words make the first flange twice as high (or deep) and then fold that flange in half but only to 45 degrees, (not hemmed, but just bent).. hope that makes sense
Another easy way is the poor man's hydro forming. There is a video on the EAA website using rubber and a Harbor Freight press. It creates nice even flanges that are consistent and fast. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/xw5yEMsDxR8/w-d-xo.html. You should do your own version of this method.
I turn my own out of bits of off cut and press them in on the fly press...Couldn't be easier and I don't get any nasty sharp rads like is being demonstrated here.
My thoughts too. Tightening a bolt all those times would soon grow old on me, lol. In fact... I think I'd be tempted to make male and female wooden cones, (or domes) and place the parts together in a sandpit (say..) and whack them smartly with a nice heavy hammer.... I can't see why that wouldn't do the job in seconds.. after a bit of faffing to get the technique right :-)
What many of these 'home flange' instructional videos miss is one important engineering fact: If the fold doesn't exceed 70 degrees, you are wasting your time, it may feel more solid, but you have not increased the strength. It's like the 90 degree straight fold you demonstrate at the start of the video, 0:30 - try a 30 degree only fold and it will fail easily, get my point?
I think they only do it to stop it flapping. If it was important it would be a proper induction funnel shape rather than a sharp transition simple cone.
last one could be 3d printed for cost efficiency, that can even be the 3 hole in one 3d printed press mold if someone are making many of those flanges.
nothing wrong with adjustable wrenches as long as they are used properly. the problem is that 99.9% of adjustable wrench users don't have a clue and fuck up the fasteners because the wrench wasn't tight.
I have seen some use drills with either a jigsaw or scroll saw with blades for cutting metal, tin snips but if you have access to hole saws that are 3" or more in diameter then it's probably quicker with a hole saw.
It will, these dies (the steel ones) can handle even thicker steel like 1 or 1.5 mm non-hardened steel plates. If you normalize (heat up with a torch then slowly cool) the edges of the holes/sheets/plates, then they can handle even thicker ones. 0.57 mm is a very small thickness, you can bend thin sheets with bare hands also.
By welding, "gussets" in where frame tubes intercept one another. Riveting in, "J-channels" also greatly increases the support strength of the skins provided that you are maintaining the 2 to 2.5 times the rivet diameter edge distance as well as rivet pitch minimums or whatever the aircraft manufacturer's call outs requirements are. The real challenge is to increase strength for the fuselage while minimizing any drastic increases in weight.
Flycutter slow and light with drill motor, if you decide to go all the way through make sure your work is secured to plywood so your centre pilot hole remains central to the finish hole. Finish edge with 240-320 grit sandpaper. Emphasis on smooth edge otherwise a crack can propagate from edge of material especially with tempered material
It's for an aircraft, drill a 1/2 hole and a dimple die with a hydraulic hand pump. Cuts and flanges in one quick step. You can punch about 10 hole any size in just a few minutes. Every dimple is uniform. Perfect everytime ,, dont waste your time with these time consuming methods that are half ass and not uniform.
Very clear and well explained! I never thought I make a comment like this, but the resemblance is uncanny - go and have a listen to the voice of 'Brains' in Thunderbirds by Gerry Anderson!
I like the second tool. Very neat and the ability to do any size hole. Perfect!
For circular flanging you can get dimpling dies in just about any size...there are also a bunch of diy dimpling die videos online as well.
I like the second option in this video because it can be used on compound shapes and curves. They all have a size limitation in that if the hole is too small, your only option is a dimpling die.
I have a full set of flanging dies out in the garage from back in my A&P days. Work structural repair.
Mine are made of aluminum, made by a friend in the back shop at Lockheed Aeromod in SC.
Thanks for the tips homebuilt guy. Gotta get back to building, but I want that flanger 360. Ordered a shot put and a bigger mallet though, we'll see what happens.
I've learned so much watching this channel. Thanks.
liking the last roller type tool , the thing i do see that once the flange is being created / lifts up from the plate , the hole gets bigger , you should have a way to automaticly make it wider every time you increase the angle of the edge (can be done by moving the pivot with the rollers bending the flange down below the hole on the tool , its now right at the top roller and that causes the distance between the two side to stay the same or actually get smaller )
i can see ways of making it a table mounted object with a bearing in the center to rotate it around on a pilar and a crank that can realy speed the process up
That Flanger-360 is pretty cool. I'm going to look for one of those.
That's just what I was gonna say. I want one.
Hi sister,
please did you find the flanging tool 360
I'm not sure why I'm here but this is cool!
And from the other side of the Sinai, I watch these tips from Israel!
The press tool looks like its 3d-printed. Should be easy to make by your self, any size
Excellent explanation and demonstration of a very handy aviation tool!!
You remind me of Henry Ford........... on the two hole sizes. Henry said you could have any color you like so long as it was black.....Great video.
Wasn't true about black Fords.
Black was the cheapest colour paint, so all 'T's were black coming down the line as standard, unless you ordered another colour and paid extra. Not many took that option, but some did, and Ford did it.
We’re you forming 0 material? I am curious how these plastic sonic dies would handle .032 and .040 t3.
Dimple dies work fine made in ally. We used them on 2mm racing seats for low-volume work. Honestly, I bet you could spin some out in hardwood? Either way up, I wouldn’t pay to have a machine shop spend hours making a set in steel.
Awesome segment. The more ways I figure I can know how to produce high quality flanged lightening holes, without question, the better.
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
Dear Sir,
Thank you for the time and the creative energy you put in this video. It is an excellent know how video.
Please do you know where i could buy tbe Alluminum Stick Flanget
I think, the Flanger-360 would be even better, if the 2 ends are identical, so, the stiff end similar to the tilting end. And when adjusting, the 2 pivots are adjusted simultaneously.
they are used in the automotive industry are made of metal and called " Dimple Dies" and come in 3/4 to 5" in size will various sized in between. some are available with a hydrolic assist
🙋🏼♂️muito bom irmão parabéns amigo pelo seu trabalho 🙌🏻 👍🏻 🇧🇷
Get a lathe make em as you need them and the size you need them.
And a press.
You are welcome. Keep up the good work.
Nice job...
amazing work. well done
Looks like the SONEX dies are discontinued as of Oct 8 2019
Can you share the regulations or restrictions for the design construction? For instance, how can we decide proper hole diameter, flange depth, the distance between holes and edges etc?
Play this @ 1.25x…much better!
Beatifull simple evolution
Could you possibly make a video showing the best way to do vertical embossing, such as in the formed-style ribs for the Hummel Ultracruiser? Do I just route out one side of the form block, then saw a dowel in half and shape it and mount it on the other side opposite that routed channel, then clamp/press the sheet between them? This is the best way I can think of to make sure all the ribs are uniform.
Very good idea
don't stuff around people spend the money get them made of steel use a small hydraulic garage press and get the whole lot done in a day and sell them on if you don't plan to reuse them
there would only be 3 or 4 sizes you will need
THANK YOU SIR.
Fred Flintstone, is that you?
Дякую !!)
so cool can it handle 1100 0.60
How about the oval holes? Which tool flanges those? I'm thinking only the Flanging Stick because the others require symmetry.If one flange is good, I would think that a second flange at 45 degrees on the first one would be even stronger.. So in other words make the first flange twice as high (or deep) and then fold that flange in half but only to 45 degrees, (not hemmed, but just bent).. hope that makes sense
I would try to make the flanging dies out of plywood or some hard plastic board with slotting machine and then bolt it or press it
Another easy way is the poor man's hydro forming. There is a video on the EAA website using rubber and a Harbor Freight press. It creates nice even flanges that are consistent and fast. Here is the link th-cam.com/video/xw5yEMsDxR8/w-d-xo.html. You should do your own version of this method.
Very good for thin gauge alloy but what about 16 gauge mild steel ? i don't think any of the tools would handle it ?.
A steel, or maybe even aluminum dimple die should do it.
Brilliant drinking video take a drink every time flange is said 😂😂
Where can I buy the flanger 360?
“The male goes into the hole with the female on top.”
Enough said.
What thicknesses of metal do these tools work with. Same question regarding shears, nibblers etc.
Good information!
Zenith Aircraft Company you would know ;)
NICE
رائع جدا
Thanks so much
I turn my own out of bits of off cut and press them in on the fly press...Couldn't be easier and I don't get any nasty sharp rads like is being demonstrated here.
Could you use a simple shop press instead of a bolt?
I would say yes - faster results! Be careful to protect the dies in the press.
My thoughts too. Tightening a bolt all those times would soon grow old on me, lol.
In fact...
I think I'd be tempted to make male and female wooden cones, (or domes) and place the parts together in a sandpit (say..) and whack them smartly with a nice heavy hammer....
I can't see why that wouldn't do the job in seconds.. after a bit of faffing to get the technique right :-)
Check these videos: th-cam.com/video/zdHGw7BeArE/w-d-xo.html , th-cam.com/video/jGLMNVQIJBk/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/vbH_TU3FDx8/w-d-xo.html
What many of these 'home flange' instructional videos miss is one important engineering fact:
If the fold doesn't exceed 70 degrees, you are wasting your time, it may feel more solid, but you have not increased the strength.
It's like the 90 degree straight fold you demonstrate at the start of the video, 0:30 - try a 30 degree only fold and it will fail easily, get my point?
I think they only do it to stop it flapping. If it was important it would be a proper induction funnel shape rather than a sharp transition simple cone.
However you have to do it to 26 ribs
I'm surprised the bottom of the nylon flanging die isn't designed to fit in a vise.
I believe it can be screwed into a wooden base or a table by using the four holes of the male piece.
Awesome job 👌 I appreciate your video's guys
Can I buy second one please reply back
What is the scribed vertical line for on the articulating bearing roller body of the Flanger-360?
last one could be 3d printed for cost efficiency, that can even be the 3 hole in one 3d printed press mold if someone are making many of those flanges.
I did 3d print mine works great just use 90 percent infill
Adjustable wrench... no no no... let's not use them. Thanks
nothing wrong with adjustable wrenches as long as they are used properly. the problem is that 99.9% of adjustable wrench users don't have a clue and fuck up the fasteners because the wrench wasn't tight.
how to mark & cut the flat sheet metal for fuselage
I have seen some use drills with either a jigsaw or scroll saw with blades for cutting metal, tin snips but if you have access to hole saws that are 3" or more in diameter then it's probably quicker with a hole saw.
whats the max steel thickness for these tools?
He's using aluminum!!!
Where can you get the flange tool?
is there a tool to make a rolled edge or rope edge on a straight peice of metal
Yes, I dont know what its callled
Bead roller
Will this handle .57mm soft metal?
It will, these dies (the steel ones) can handle even thicker steel like 1 or 1.5 mm non-hardened steel plates. If you normalize (heat up with a torch then slowly cool) the edges of the holes/sheets/plates, then they can handle even thicker ones. 0.57 mm is a very small thickness, you can bend thin sheets with bare hands also.
Can anyone recommend me an online course?
Do you have a link to the Flanging Tool #2? Or know where we can buy it?
how to increase strength for fuselage
By welding, "gussets" in where frame tubes intercept one another.
Riveting in, "J-channels" also greatly increases the support strength of the skins provided that you are maintaining the 2 to 2.5 times the rivet diameter edge distance as well as rivet pitch minimums or whatever the aircraft manufacturer's call outs requirements are.
The real challenge is to increase strength for the fuselage while minimizing any drastic increases in weight.
5:11 ... looks like that flange cracked!
Oh, holes to lighten...not a pass-thru for lightening strikes....oh.
am trying to use Automotive engine installing the home builder plan what is relationship in between torque and RPM vs propolis speech and diameter
How do you cut such clean holes in that thin aluminium?
Flycutter slow and light with drill motor, if you decide to go all the way through make sure your work is secured to plywood so your centre pilot hole remains central to the finish hole. Finish edge with 240-320 grit sandpaper. Emphasis on smooth edge otherwise a crack can propagate from edge of material especially with tempered material
No volume
I might be the only one here but I came here from friends about the left flange🤣🤣🤣
Pretty cool. But what about flanging a wooden rib? Jk
Works the same
Dimple dies, look 'em up
It's for an aircraft, drill a 1/2 hole and a dimple die with a hydraulic hand pump. Cuts and flanges in one quick step. You can punch about 10 hole any size in just a few minutes. Every dimple is uniform. Perfect everytime ,, dont waste your time with these time consuming methods that are half ass and not uniform.
Nowadays you just 3D print a flanging tool for like 5 bucks.
+
shocking
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaw yisssssssssssss