A useful video. I think you were quite lucky that the motor was still serviceable after the brushes had worn down that much, as the armature can be ruined if the brush springs come into contact with the commutator. One thing I noticed is that the belt is too tight. You should be able to squeeze it slightly where it comes away from the small pulley on top of the motor. The three screws holding the motor in can be manipulated to achieve the right belt tension. Another thing I learnt the hard way is not to over-tighten those screws as it's possible to strip the threads in the top motor housing. Fortunately I managed to repair the damage using a helicoil set!
Very well done - seems easier than some later models - it looks identical to my KM201 from 1997. It just failed, and started smoking bad - terrible stink. Was one of the large rectangular 0.1uF capacitors on the control board - it must have shorted and was burning - split in half. Hope a simple replacement will fix the problem.
Great video on taking this apart. My issue was stuck brush that caused random run issues and wild shake. Already replaced speed controller with no help but brush was the key.
Thanks for this very useful video which helped me do exactly the same job. Referring to the comment below about greasing the gearbox, there is a plastic push-in plug on the bottom of the gearbox casting where you can repack it without taking everything apart.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it was useful for you. Out of interest what model is your one and I'll update the description so others might find it too
Thanks for the video. I don’t think the top of the brushes slot under the tabs as you stated. I think they simply pop into the recess and then the electrical tab presses against the top of the brush assembly.
Hi this is Dianne from Australia thoroughly enjoyed your video it was a great help for changing the brushes but if could just say to remove the front cover you slide the white lever to the side the cover will come of without the use of force.
Thanks Dianne, I wonder if different models are slightly different to remove as on my one sliding the white lever didn't make a difference to the cover
Hi, really good video but unfortunately when i took out my motor there was a casing around it and after removing this I thought the brushes would be visible but they are not. Can you help?
Thanks so much - really useful video. The problem with my KM250 is a worn small Belt Pulley: I am ordering a Small Pulley & Tension Pin, but I'm assuming I'll need to remove the motor to change this part. Is that right?
Thanks for this. I have a KM336 which runs but only for about 20 seconds. Then it seems like the clutch starts slipping as the drive slows down and can stop. Switching it on/off works, but again it only works for 20 seconds. I'm going to have a look tomorrow.
@@ajvw Thank you. I took it all apart but the brushes were just lightly worn. The belt is fine too. Put it back together and no change. Not sure what to do next, apart from have a look at the gears. It's just strange that it stalls, but when you switch off and on again, it works.
So I did it again, and this time filed the brushes down so they were flat (they had gone a bit concave through use) and cleaned the connectors on the spindle with some contact cleaner. Put it back together and it's all working! Thanks again for the video!
Do you have any tips on how to fix a spead dial that needs to be pushed in in order to actually turn the mixer on/change spped? the dial does not want to stay in the grooves for it, and I have now removed the dial and it is seemily very difficult to get it back in. Any tips would be greatly appreciated
I just looked at another video in which the specs of these caps were specified. If you look a little further you will probably find it. The specs were posted in the comments.
@@rolandberendonck3900 I read the comments but into them I didn't find anything about these specs. I think I found on ebay the old kit with the bloody RIFA capacitors. One is 0.1µF and the other one (near the 2 small blue ones) is 0.15µF. The eBay's kit is again with RIFA so I will order more reliable capacitors at Farnell. What i still don't find is the kind of fabric layer underneath the upper-train. It's greasy like a hell and I would liked to have a new one, since I'm also taking the occasion to clean the whole machine.
Hi there - we have a KM400 that stopped running - doesn't even 'attempt to' when turn the start knob. We took it apart, checked the brushes - they look perfect - cleaned it up nicely - put it back together --- nothing. Could it be the power cord? How can it be checked? Any other idea?
That sounds like it might be something electronic like one of the resistors that has failed. I found an eBay seller that had a repair kit which included various parts and cost under £15. It also came with instructions for fitting
I have a Kenwood Major Model A707A. It sounds bad and needs greasing. Can you do a video on greasing please as I need it for making my bread. Thank you.
This is so cool :D I just got a KM300 for $95 from a junk shop working but needs a new bowl. I imagine I'll be repairing something in it eventually :) That said I know this was a while ago, wouldn't it be wise to open the motor housing to clear any remaining debris from inside the motor like the missing spring?
Got my kit from eBay the other day and going to try the same repair plus I might do the brushes while I’m in there as the motor only runs very intermittently with smoke 😬
Hi ! Sorry to ask you this but are you sure that your model is KM300 and not KM200 ? The carbon brushes of the KM300 is referenced KW660018. The model on your video is referenced KW602834
A useful video. I think you were quite lucky that the motor was still serviceable after the brushes had worn down that much, as the armature can be ruined if the brush springs come into contact with the commutator. One thing I noticed is that the belt is too tight. You should be able to squeeze it slightly where it comes away from the small pulley on top of the motor. The three screws holding the motor in can be manipulated to achieve the right belt tension. Another thing I learnt the hard way is not to over-tighten those screws as it's possible to strip the threads in the top motor housing. Fortunately I managed to repair the damage using a helicoil set!
Very well done - seems easier than some later models - it looks identical to my KM201 from 1997. It just failed, and started smoking bad - terrible stink. Was one of the large rectangular 0.1uF capacitors on the control board - it must have shorted and was burning - split in half. Hope a simple replacement will fix the problem.
Great video on taking this apart. My issue was stuck brush that caused random run issues and wild shake. Already replaced speed controller with no help but brush was the key.
Thanks for this very useful video which helped me do exactly the same job. Referring to the comment below about greasing the gearbox, there is a plastic push-in plug on the bottom of the gearbox casting where you can repack it without taking everything apart.
Thanks for the info, I'll add it to the description as it may help others
Even though I have a different model this video was more helpful than the ones on my model 👍
Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad it was useful for you. Out of interest what model is your one and I'll update the description so others might find it too
Thanks for the video. I don’t think the top of the brushes slot under the tabs as you stated. I think they simply pop into the recess and then the electrical tab presses against the top of the brush assembly.
Hi this is Dianne from Australia thoroughly enjoyed your video it was a great help for changing the brushes but if could just say to remove the front cover you slide the white lever to the side the cover will come of without the use of force.
Thanks Dianne, I wonder if different models are slightly different to remove as on my one sliding the white lever didn't make a difference to the cover
Hi, really good video but unfortunately when i took out my motor there was a casing around it and after removing this I thought the brushes would be visible but they are not.
Can you help?
Thanks so much - really useful video. The problem with my KM250 is a worn small Belt Pulley: I am ordering a Small Pulley & Tension Pin, but I'm assuming I'll need to remove the motor to change this part. Is that right?
Yes I believe so
@@ajvw Thanks
Thanks for this. I have a KM336 which runs but only for about 20 seconds. Then it seems like the clutch starts slipping as the drive slows down and can stop. Switching it on/off works, but again it only works for 20 seconds. I'm going to have a look tomorrow.
Good luck, hope you find what the problem is. Mine was cutting out in a similar way
@@ajvw Thank you. I took it all apart but the brushes were just lightly worn. The belt is fine too. Put it back together and no change. Not sure what to do next, apart from have a look at the gears. It's just strange that it stalls, but when you switch off and on again, it works.
So I did it again, and this time filed the brushes down so they were flat (they had gone a bit concave through use) and cleaned the connectors on the spindle with some contact cleaner. Put it back together and it's all working! Thanks again for the video!
@@JimHanner that's great news!
Do you have any tips on how to fix a spead dial that needs to be pushed in in order to actually turn the mixer on/change spped? the dial does not want to stay in the grooves for it, and I have now removed the dial and it is seemily very difficult to get it back in. Any tips would be greatly appreciated
Great video thanks. Helped me repair mine
Which values have the 2 capacitors please? Since on mine one both capacitors are exploded adn I don't find that kit
I just looked at another video in which the specs of these caps were specified. If you look a little further you will probably find it. The specs were posted in the comments.
@@rolandberendonck3900 I read the comments but into them I didn't find anything about these specs. I think I found on ebay the old kit with the bloody RIFA capacitors. One is 0.1µF and the other one (near the 2 small blue ones) is 0.15µF. The eBay's kit is again with RIFA so I will order more reliable capacitors at Farnell.
What i still don't find is the kind of fabric layer underneath the upper-train. It's greasy like a hell and I would liked to have a new one, since I'm also taking the occasion to clean the whole machine.
I notice that the service kit for mmy ap900 does not contain brushes. Im assuming they would prob need changing.
Hi there - we have a KM400 that stopped running - doesn't even 'attempt to' when turn the start knob. We took it apart, checked the brushes - they look perfect - cleaned it up nicely - put it back together --- nothing. Could it be the power cord? How can it be checked? Any other idea?
That sounds like it might be something electronic like one of the resistors that has failed. I found an eBay seller that had a repair kit which included various parts and cost under £15. It also came with instructions for fitting
Hi there can you do a video on opening up and cleaning and regreaseing KM 300
Hi, this video should show you how to do that. Was there something specific you needed to see that isn't shown?
@@ajvw yeah the gear box.
Thanks. Very nice and clear explanation. Regards
It was a very useful video to do the same job
I have a Kenwood Major Model A707A. It sounds bad and needs greasing. Can you do a video on greasing please as I need it for making my bread. Thank you.
This is so cool :D I just got a KM300 for $95 from a junk shop working but needs a new bowl. I imagine I'll be repairing something in it eventually :) That said I know this was a while ago, wouldn't it be wise to open the motor housing to clear any remaining debris from inside the motor like the missing spring?
yes that would be a good idea
Got my kit from eBay the other day and going to try the same repair plus I might do the brushes while I’m in there as the motor only runs very intermittently with smoke 😬
What size carbon brush mm?
Hi ! Sorry to ask you this but are you sure that your model is KM300 and not KM200 ? The carbon brushes of the KM300 is referenced KW660018. The model on your video is referenced KW602834
Thanks for this video
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