Couldn't agree more. Got mine on Thursday and went out shooting friday. The difference is huge, finally something to work with. I wish had this kit earlier. I'm struggling with one thing though - getting my three monitors look exactly the same. They are different brands and different ages, event panel technology is different,a nd they look somewhat the same, like all warm and more towards red-ish instead of one being blue, the other grenn and the third red, but when I apply a 50% grey image as background - the difference is very noticable. The gpu supports different luts though.
You went in and added magenta to the white balance after you applied the preset, thus rendering the calibration useless. You added a magenta cast to the overall image. While the calibration process is useful, and in some cases, vital, in this particular situation, a simple grey-card or white and grey card (or maybe Spyder cube) would be more than enough, and you can just use the white balance ink dropper to zero out as much of the crazy colour cast as needed. Thereafter, just go and make adjustments as you usually would, to make it look great… Including adding some magenta if needed.
Just wanna say thanks for all these videos, you are really good at teaching and i like to jump in any of your content to learn something i wasn't event aware existed!
Which one to use first - the cube or the checkr for correction in LrC? If either one selected first does the image also has to be corrected using the other one? Anyway you video is great and enjoy. My SpyderX Capture Pro is coming!!
nice but very timely specially when you are in live events and you shoot above 700 photos. i might have another idea its to use it with log profile color cinetone 11 it works well for me
The moment you start adjusting the brightness - exposure etc, the entire color profile has been rendered useless(as colors will not match the spyder profile anymore), only useful bit is the white balance, which can be made even quicker. That's how I see it, correct me if I'm wrong.
i dont think youre wrong - i just dont think you are right. there are multiple ways to see this. if you are shooting in studio... your settings are locked in manual mode and lighting is not moving AT ALL. at least it shouldnt be volatile. out doors - sure you are going to see some shifting from shot to shot BUT doesnt make color useless... RED IS RED... BLUE IS BLUE... thats what the color is fixing. now you might have to adjust exposure a .25 stop or so, but that would hardly render this workflow or process useless. hope this makes more sense.
OK. so...if you really were looking for the best possible color...wouldn't you use a color meter and light balancing and color correction filters? Then shoot the checkr24?
Hi, The written documentation I've found says to set the white square to 90% but the videos I've found say 96% I was wondering where you found this value. Thanks
honestly... ive never taken it to that level of detail. to me - i always have it from the perspective of where im shooting from since thats the light hitting the sensor.
I'm thinking of getting the SpyderCheckr 24 for video but have seen a video saying it was wrong and not correct for video. Can you tell me if that is true? I use Premiere Pro..
thank you very much for this video. What happens if you have taken a shot with the model and the color checker, and the sun comes out and hits her. Do you have to take another shot with the colour checker again?
yes - if lighting changes - you 100% should get the color checker in the new light .however, to your point... if the sun were to come out and start hitting her in the face, etc - more than likely that would not be a shot i would take - unless i was trying to work something with hard shadows... it just wouldnt look right for me.
Excellent instruction and great explanation. Question about "when to use". If in a studio with strobes and modifiers, if you change the strobe power and/or modifier size/location of modifier, do you retake an image with the Spyder Checkr? Thanks.
great question... for me... i dont retake every time exposure is adjusted per se... for me if lighting environment / colors / etc change thats when i reshoot. ie... indoors vs outdoors, outdoor locations are all different, indoor church for a wedding, etc - not sure if that helps. the goal for me is to get color as close to right as possible.
Good work as always. Should this process still be straight forward when you set your baseline image if I'm using a preset? I know presets have their own colors baked in, but once I set a baseline, if I throw a preset on top of it, will that ruin the baseline?
@@SalCincotta1 I think I got it looking at one of your other videos. I believe applying the preset to the color checker image, then making the adjustments should work as the "preset baseline". Then make further adjustments from there.
@@SalCincotta1 alright, got a spyder checkr for Christmas and tested it out with a preset and worked amazing IMO. even though the preset I use comes with a custom profile, the spyder gave the look I was expecting.
Hello, thank you so much for this informative video. So helpful, especially because I just got my checkr24! 😄 Also, I just want to know - why is the white at 96% and black at 4%? (6:53)
I have an old spyder which I calibrate my monitors with which I really need to update. I do my light balance and most of by colour balance in adobe camera raw and then finish in photoshop. I must admit that I find Lightroom superfluous (am I missing something here?). How well will the card and cube work in camera raw? Do you print using this system?
camera raw is the ONLY way i would use this. makes no sense otherwise in my opinion. but we print all our competition and some larger prints in house. i have never seen a better print when it comes to color - when i control the entire workflow. labs do their best, but the reality is they are calibrated to mass produce... hth
@@SalCincotta1 Thanks for replying. So I can see how I could use the cube in RAW and also use the chart to do the white balance, whites and blacks. But how would I do the colour pallet calibration? It seems to be designed for lightroom.
Does this work the same with flash? I never seem to get the colors right although my white balance is set to flash. And does it also work with the latest Lightroom CC version?
I have the SpyderCheckr. Its colors are not accurate. The problem is that it makes presets and not profiles. I did a test where I sent an image to the Datacolor software using the Adobe Standard profile and sent the same image with the Camera Faithful profile. The resulting presets gave me different hues when, theoretically, they should have adjusted to the same hue in relation to the camera profile I used. The X-rite Color Checker makes actual camera profiles.
@@SalCincotta1 The help files recommend using the Adobe Standard profile because it's the "simplest solution." The solution to what problem? Choosing which camera calibration profile to use? According to the Datacolor, it shouldn't matter which profile you send to the software because it also states that it is "possible to use any profile as the basis for SpyderCheckr calibration, but it's important to remember what profile was in place when the calibration was created, and to use that same profile when processing images through the resulting camera calibration preset." But as I said, different profiles under the Camera Calibration tab yield different hues after you make the presets. Vastly different? No. But I bought it for accuracy, and it isn't. If I wanted "in the ballpark" colors, I would just use the Camera Faithful profile and call it a day. An X-Rite Passport will be delivered to me tomorrow. If that doesn't produce accurate colors, nothing will.
@@SalCincotta1 Btw, do you use the Adobe Standard profile? If I were going to use Spydercheckr, I would use that profile because it's has the most accurate blues, where that color shift I mentioned mostly happens. It really desaturates red though. -20 under both tungsten and flourescent lights.
Thanks, this review would save me money, if I took it for face value. Only by manually cranking up magenta could you remove the color cast after preset. Only by manually adjusting the white balance after getting it from the cube you get "neutral colors". I suppose though, the real scene was a lot greener and warmer and your goal to show "neutral colors" and "natural skin color" is just an aesthetic one--it's not in the sense of "accurate". Anyways, I believe, a camera match with a second shooter, ideally different camera model or even manufacturer, would be the true test here...not so much pleasing skin tones to taste. Thanks anyway, I've learned about the lightroom workflow from your video.
lol bruh! after the preset got applied, the green cast is still very noticeable. It helps a bit, but I dont think the white balance is accurate at all O_O
try telling groom/bride ... wait, wait. You just moved outside. Hold this card. Then hold this cube. Done. Okay ... start kissing. Then after 15 min., they move near a nice river. WAIT, WAIT..... hold this card. Done? okay hold this cube? done. Okay. start hugging.
Yeah I’m a full time wedding photographer. And that’s not how it works. So don’t appreciate the cynicism. I think you know damn well and good that’s not what I’m implying.
I use the Color Munki system, but you are correct everybody needs one of these as it is a basic tool that will save time in LR.
best explanation i ever seen great stuff you are a good teacher !!!!!!
thank you sir ) one question what is you white balans you use when you make a picture of the spider checker
Couldn't agree more. Got mine on Thursday and went out shooting friday. The difference is huge, finally something to work with. I wish had this kit earlier. I'm struggling with one thing though - getting my three monitors look exactly the same. They are different brands and different ages, event panel technology is different,a nd they look somewhat the same, like all warm and more towards red-ish instead of one being blue, the other grenn and the third red, but when I apply a 50% grey image as background - the difference is very noticable. The gpu supports different luts though.
What a great video. I’ve never heard about that before. I have it ready in my Amazon car.
You went in and added magenta to the white balance after you applied the preset, thus rendering the calibration useless. You added a magenta cast to the overall image.
While the calibration process is useful, and in some cases, vital, in this particular situation, a simple grey-card or white and grey card (or maybe Spyder cube) would be more than enough, and you can just use the white balance ink dropper to zero out as much of the crazy colour cast as needed. Thereafter, just go and make adjustments as you usually would, to make it look great… Including adding some magenta if needed.
Thanks. This was easily explained and demonstated. I have the Syder Checkr, looking at the cube.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Can we follow this gorgeous model somewhere?
Hi what is the difference between this 24 colour patch and the Spyder Checker Photo 48 colour patch? Which one is more accurate? thanks
Nicely explained! Thanks for doing what Spyder hasn't done (AFIK).
Just wanna say thanks for all these videos, you are really good at teaching and i like to jump in any of your content to learn something i wasn't event aware existed!
Which one to use first - the cube or the checkr for correction in LrC? If either one selected first does the image also has to be corrected using the other one? Anyway you video is great and enjoy. My SpyderX Capture Pro is coming!!
nice but very timely specially when you are in live events and you shoot above 700 photos. i might have another idea its to use it with log profile color cinetone 11 it works well for me
Hi every time when I set the white point to 230 rgb value or 96 and black point to 10 rgb value or 4 in ACR, my images look very dark. Why is that?
So in the help section of the app it says that white E1 should be around 90% and blacks at 4%.
Just ordered the checkr 24, being colour blind I can't always tell if there is a cast and sometimes I'm just jot getting it right lol
The moment you start adjusting the brightness - exposure etc, the entire color profile has been rendered useless(as colors will not match the spyder profile anymore), only useful bit is the white balance, which can be made even quicker. That's how I see it, correct me if I'm wrong.
i dont think youre wrong - i just dont think you are right. there are multiple ways to see this. if you are shooting in studio... your settings are locked in manual mode and lighting is not moving AT ALL. at least it shouldnt be volatile. out doors - sure you are going to see some shifting from shot to shot BUT doesnt make color useless... RED IS RED... BLUE IS BLUE... thats what the color is fixing. now you might have to adjust exposure a .25 stop or so, but that would hardly render this workflow or process useless. hope this makes more sense.
6:25 just creating a time stamp for when I enevitably forget what percentages I should be aiming for
Got mine today - thanks for the email heads up on the anniversary sale!
OK. so...if you really were looking for the best possible color...wouldn't you use a color meter and light balancing and color correction filters? Then shoot the checkr24?
how exactly would you see that workflow work in practical application on a portrait or wedding shoot? and at speed?
Hi, The written documentation I've found says to set the white square to 90% but the videos I've found say 96% I was wondering where you found this value. Thanks
So are you giving one of these away? :)
Also What is the position of the cube if the subject is 45% facing left or right? Is it still facing forward or in the direction of the subject?
honestly... ive never taken it to that level of detail. to me - i always have it from the perspective of where im shooting from since thats the light hitting the sensor.
@@SalCincotta1 طينسنستششااااااصتضتضتضتضتضتتضض
I'm thinking of getting the SpyderCheckr 24 for video but have seen a video saying it was wrong and not correct for video. Can you tell me if that is true? I use Premiere Pro..
thank you very much for this video. What happens if you have taken a shot with the model and the color checker, and the sun comes out and hits her. Do you have to take another shot with the colour checker again?
yes - if lighting changes - you 100% should get the color checker in the new light .however, to your point... if the sun were to come out and start hitting her in the face, etc - more than likely that would not be a shot i would take - unless i was trying to work something with hard shadows... it just wouldnt look right for me.
Thanks a lot for the great video and the execellent explanation!
This is a nice product, but no ICC support for Capture One....
Excellent instruction and great explanation. Question about "when to use". If in a studio with strobes and modifiers, if you change the strobe power and/or modifier size/location of modifier, do you retake an image with the Spyder Checkr? Thanks.
great question... for me... i dont retake every time exposure is adjusted per se... for me if lighting environment / colors / etc change thats when i reshoot. ie... indoors vs outdoors, outdoor locations are all different, indoor church for a wedding, etc - not sure if that helps. the goal for me is to get color as close to right as possible.
@@SalCincotta1 Thanks, appreciate the feedback
well explained, I also liked that you explained the post production process.
Good work as always. Should this process still be straight forward when you set your baseline image if I'm using a preset? I know presets have their own colors baked in, but once I set a baseline, if I throw a preset on top of it, will that ruin the baseline?
ty ty. not 100% sure to answer your question, but i think it will work.
@@SalCincotta1 I think I got it looking at one of your other videos. I believe applying the preset to the color checker image, then making the adjustments should work as the "preset baseline". Then make further adjustments from there.
@@SalCincotta1 alright, got a spyder checkr for Christmas and tested it out with a preset and worked amazing IMO. even though the preset I use comes with a custom profile, the spyder gave the look I was expecting.
@@lynnwhyjae HELL YES!!!
So if i had 2 or 3 different brand cameras i could make all the files look the same?
yes this is a great way to get your color pretty damn close and consistent.
Is it posible to use this color checker using flash and shooting raw pictures?
absolutely. raw is the only way i would use it.
@@SalCincotta1 thanks for your help and happy holidays!!
Hello, thank you so much for this informative video. So helpful, especially because I just got my checkr24! 😄 Also, I just want to know - why is the white at 96% and black at 4%? (6:53)
very good thanks
I have an old spyder which I calibrate my monitors with which I really need to update. I do my light balance and most of by colour balance in adobe camera raw and then finish in photoshop. I must admit that I find Lightroom superfluous (am I missing something here?). How well will the card and cube work in camera raw? Do you print using this system?
camera raw is the ONLY way i would use this. makes no sense otherwise in my opinion. but we print all our competition and some larger prints in house. i have never seen a better print when it comes to color - when i control the entire workflow. labs do their best, but the reality is they are calibrated to mass produce... hth
@@SalCincotta1 Thanks for replying. So I can see how I could use the cube in RAW and also use the chart to do the white balance, whites and blacks. But how would I do the colour pallet calibration? It seems to be designed for lightroom.
Does this work the same with flash?
I never seem to get the colors right although my white balance is set to flash. And does it also work with the latest Lightroom CC version?
yes 100% to all your questions. its the same and does work in lightroom. we use it all the time.
@@SalCincotta1 Thanks so much! Guess i’ll have to purchase it & try it out 🙂
This is great, thanks!
You're welcome!
I have the SpyderCheckr. Its colors are not accurate. The problem is that it makes presets and not profiles. I did a test where I sent an image to the Datacolor software using the Adobe Standard profile and sent the same image with the Camera Faithful profile. The resulting presets gave me different hues when, theoretically, they should have adjusted to the same hue in relation to the camera profile I used. The X-rite Color Checker makes actual camera profiles.
thats really odd. ive never had an issue with it and have always loved the results.
@@SalCincotta1 The help files recommend using the Adobe Standard profile because it's the "simplest solution." The solution to what problem? Choosing which camera calibration profile to use? According to the Datacolor, it shouldn't matter which profile you send to the software because it also states that it is "possible to use any profile as the basis for SpyderCheckr calibration, but it's important to remember what profile was in place when the calibration was created, and to use that same profile when processing images through the resulting camera calibration preset." But as I said, different profiles under the Camera Calibration tab yield different hues after you make the presets. Vastly different? No. But I bought it for accuracy, and it isn't. If I wanted "in the ballpark" colors, I would just use the Camera Faithful profile and call it a day. An X-Rite Passport will be delivered to me tomorrow. If that doesn't produce accurate colors, nothing will.
@@SalCincotta1 Btw, do you use the Adobe Standard profile? If I were going to use Spydercheckr, I would use that profile because it's has the most accurate blues, where that color shift I mentioned mostly happens. It really desaturates red though. -20 under both tungsten and flourescent lights.
@@rubengarza8901 I do use that profile.
Begins at 1:30
In Jepec how to do it in camera itself?
you can not do it in camera itself. and i cant think of a logical reason why you would even attempt to.
How do you install the software on a computer without a CD drive???
I don’t have a cd drive. So I don’t understand the question. Download from their site no?
@@SalCincotta1 I ordered it from adorama and it came with a CD. I then went to the website and I can't figure out how to download it from the site.
@@SalCincotta1 I figured it out. It provides a web address on the CD itself. Very small print.
Thanks, this review would save me money, if I took it for face value. Only by manually cranking up magenta could you remove the color cast after preset. Only by manually adjusting the white balance after getting it from the cube you get "neutral colors". I suppose though, the real scene was a lot greener and warmer and your goal to show "neutral colors" and "natural skin color" is just an aesthetic one--it's not in the sense of "accurate". Anyways, I believe, a camera match with a second shooter, ideally different camera model or even manufacturer, would be the true test here...not so much pleasing skin tones to taste. Thanks anyway, I've learned about the lightroom workflow from your video.
lol bruh! after the preset got applied, the green cast is still very noticeable. It helps a bit, but I dont think the white balance is accurate at all O_O
Jin Zero I will respectfully disagree.
@@SalCincotta1 Before seeing this comment I also it said it still has a slight green cast. I have Asus IPS 100% sRGB calibrated monitor.
@@cristianuk1823 And bright fall leave will cast reddish etc. If you prefer a color cast as opposed to the correct skin color, that's your choice.
try telling groom/bride ... wait, wait. You just moved outside. Hold this card. Then hold this cube. Done. Okay ... start kissing. Then after 15 min., they move near a nice river. WAIT, WAIT..... hold this card. Done? okay hold this cube? done. Okay. start hugging.
Yeah I’m a full time wedding photographer. And that’s not how it works. So don’t appreciate the cynicism. I think you know damn well and good that’s not what I’m implying.
All I heard was "Olivia".
Gosh you took more tha 8 minutesof of bla just to start explaining how color correction works.
yeah.... why bother explaining what im doing. youre totally right. i owe you 8minutes of your life back. my sincerest apologies.