Thanks for the replay. I might note that I have to turn my volume all the way up to barely hear this video. Videos that I watched before this one were louder at 1/2 volume setting. If you right click the video and select Stats for nerds it has been Normalized to 50%. TH-cam will reduce a video to -14LUFS if it is to loud in db but it will Not increase it if too low. Max db seems to be best at -1 to -6. ( Just trying to help. )
I love listening to your channel and your explanation of electrical issues. I would like to know more about how alternators know to reduce output or what controls them, when charging engine and house batteries together (combined with switch) and solar also charging at the same time.
Sorry I missed the live stream chat.... But I have a question. My question is, can my solar and/or battery bank be too big--and what adverse actions happen if I have a system too big for my needs? Thanks, guys.
A battery bank needs to be sized in conjunction with your charging sources. Practically speaking a solar array cannot be too big, just doesn't make sense to have bigger then you need.
Jeff: Theoretically, what electrical problems could cause a new Leopard 50 tied up on New River in Ft. Laud. to burn and sink while owners were out of country and no one on board? No lightning and no foul play. Steve Bell
Hmmm, good question. As a starting point, I'd inspect all the AC and DC circuits that were powered when the boat was left. For example a bad connection (loose or bad crimp) on the AC double breaker. Perhaps the water heater was powered too?
Great content. I've watched several of your videos and appreciate the information. Now for a question. I currently have 2 starting batteries that supply the "house" and starting duties. This is a center console with twin 300 hp outboards. I would like to add a dedicated house battery. What is the best setup to charge the house battery with having the 2 alternators. Also, what type of battery should I be using? The only ability I have to charge the batteries is when the boat is running. The boat is trailer stored with no available electricity. I usually run 1 - 1.5 hours out to fish and the same back to dock. When out fishing for a 10 hour day I may only start the motors to move a short distance - less than 10 minutes. Sometimes the boat may sit for 6 weeks without use. Alternators are rated at 50 amp for charging.
Thanks PYS for good informative videos! For people looking for information about lightning protection, I can highly recommend the interview with Jeff Thayer in episode 290 of the On the Wind podcast with Andy and August. They dig quite deep into the subject.
Thanks for the replay. I might note that I have to turn my volume all the way up to barely hear this video. Videos that I watched before this one were louder at 1/2 volume setting. If you right click the video and select Stats for nerds it has been Normalized to 50%. TH-cam will reduce a video to -14LUFS if it is to loud in db but it will Not increase it if too low. Max db seems to be best at -1 to -6.
( Just trying to help. )
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. We will correct it for next time!
I had the same problem with low volume...
I love listening to your channel and your explanation of electrical issues. I would like to know more about how alternators know to reduce output or what controls them, when charging engine and house batteries together (combined with switch) and solar also charging at the same time.
Hi Traveling Terry, the internal or external regulator is measuring voltage and adjusts the output to reach or maintain a desired voltage.
Sorry I missed the live stream chat....
But I have a question. My question is, can my solar and/or battery bank be too big--and what adverse actions happen if I have a system too big for my needs? Thanks, guys.
A battery bank needs to be sized in conjunction with your charging sources.
Practically speaking a solar array cannot be too big, just doesn't make sense to have bigger then you need.
@@PacificYachtSystems I should have mentioned..."to plan ahead for changing needs." Thank you for your support and answers....always appreciate it.
Jeff: Theoretically, what electrical problems could cause a new Leopard 50 tied up on New River in Ft. Laud. to burn and sink while owners were out of country and no one on board? No lightning and no foul play. Steve Bell
Hmmm, good question. As a starting point, I'd inspect all the AC and DC circuits that were powered when the boat was left. For example a bad connection (loose or bad crimp) on the AC double breaker. Perhaps the water heater was powered too?
Excellent content. Cheers
Glad you enjoyed it
Great content. I've watched several of your videos and appreciate the information.
Now for a question. I currently have 2 starting batteries that supply the "house" and starting duties. This is a center console with twin 300 hp outboards. I would like to add a dedicated house battery. What is the best setup to charge the house battery with having the 2 alternators.
Also, what type of battery should I be using? The only ability I have to charge the batteries is when the boat is running. The boat is trailer stored with no available electricity. I usually run 1 - 1.5 hours out to fish and the same back to dock. When out fishing for a 10 hour day I may only start the motors to move a short distance - less than 10 minutes. Sometimes the boat may sit for 6 weeks without use. Alternators are rated at 50 amp for charging.
With outboards, suggest you install two battery combiners: port to house and stbd to house batteries.
Ditto on comment below on sound.
Thanks for the feedback, we'll make it better next time.
Thanks PYS for good informative videos!
For people looking for information about lightning protection, I can highly recommend the interview with Jeff Thayer in episode 290 of the On the Wind podcast with Andy and August. They dig quite deep into the subject.
Thanks Mattias for the redirection, appreciate it.
Volume up ,,,,,sound to low to hear
Duly noted, we'll work on it for next time.
100
Thanks.