A trick I use to wipe off the excess is to use a single layer of the "rag" wrapped around something straight edged like a popsicle stick. I have found that my fingers reach into the recesses (especially large areas) a bit too much and remove more than I want.
If you're 'borrowing' your wife's nail polish, borrow a few of her makeup sponges or cotton swabs; dampened with thinner or alcohol, they're easier to use than a rag wrapped around a finger.
I have tried all the different methods of painting the etching in wrenches, sockets, etc. and I always revert back to Oil base paint markers. You can purchase them in almost every color, and the colors you can’t, you can purchase empty markers and fill them with custom colors. Plus, you can buy the same color with different size nibs from ultra fine up to jumbo. So depending on what your working on you can select a marker with a tip that will work best for not getting paint anywhere you don’t want it
@ Yes, should work great. Like I said, make sure you use oil based paint and make sure you clean the knives very well. I would use a small brush and scrub them with alcohol. If you prep them well, the paint should last a long time. Anytime they start to fade or wear out just rinse and repeat. Keep in mind the deeper the etching or stamping is, the longer it will last.
@@savage6394 Ya, I just put some oil based ones in my Amazon cart after you suggested it. I guess what I really wanted to know is if the oil based would be safe to use on kitchen knives since they are going to be used for food prep. Or may e there's food safe versions? I appreciate the reply 👍
I use fingernail polish to highlight gun sights. I start with a single white coat as a primer to make the final color pop, let it dry and then follow with two coats of the final color such as bright red or whatever else, maybe neon orange. I let the color coats throughly dry between applications. Finally, I apply a clear coat nail polish hardener. This brightens the final color and keeps it from chipping. This treatment is very durable and will last for quite a while.
I live with my wife and two teenage daughters, so I have just about every color in the world available to borrow. I have used it for tool IDs, like metric vs SAE. Nice idea on the knife. Wonder if using a plastic straight edge with the cloth soaked in alcohol would work better? That way the pad of your finger doesn't get into the crevices? Just a thought.
@@egbluesuede1220 lucky you. 😆 yes the flatter the surface the better. Also tight woven is much better than say a fiber cloth as you don’t want it to dig in or leave fibers behind.
I've used nail polish to do colour fills like this in the past, but I use oil paint marker pens now, because the excess paint is easier to wipe off cleanly.
Use white as a base layer, allow to dry, wipe, then add your color layer (red, blue, etc) I have been doing this for years. I also use the paint pens with fine tips for detail work.
I have a number of similar keys on my keychain, so for 30 plus years I've color coded the keys with nail polish. Blue for the garage, red for the shed...etc. Really useful under low light conditions, or in the dark to find the right key quickly.
I have used clalk pens on my black impact sockets. That seems to last pretty good. I am going to try the finger nail polish simply because it will shine and will be easier to see. Thanks for the tip
To get into the corners of tiny details to clean it out really well before applying the war paint, dip an old toothbrush in the alcohol and scrub away.
I've done it that way on gun magazines with each one a different color so if one developed a reliability problem, then I could tell which one was bad. I'm going to try it on my tools.Thanks!!
Great Video, thanks. I learned recently that there is such a thing as plastic razor blades. Obviously they aren't razor sharp, but they are about as sharp as a plastic blade can get. The advantage of a plastic blade is that it won't scratch the item's surface like a true razor blade might do. They are also great for scraping off dried paint or other gunk in small confined spaces. By the way, be sure to read the label on your alcohol bottle. The video shows a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol -- which is what one should use. But ThingsMen initially referred to it as rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol typically contains a small amount oil, which will leave an oil residue that could prevent the paint from adhering well. Xylol (also called Xylene) is a good degreaser solvent as well and can be found at any hardware or big box store.
Good advice. I've got a bunch of those plastic razors - 3 colors for 3 hardness levels - and they're great for all sorts of surfaces to avoid damage. On plastic, paint, wood... much safer than metal blades. They dull up fast but might be refreshed on a diamond sharpener, haven't tried it yet. When it comes to tool steel like a wrench shown in the video, the standard metal razors ought to be fine. On other items like a knife casing, of course, scratching & gouging is a big risk.
I use bright yellow nail polish to identify my tools. Placing dots in places that won't get worn away. Also all garden tools have dots and/or yellow tape to be seen easily in the grass or soil. Good video 👍
When painting regular object the type or color of primer makes a difference in the final shade. When doing an object that is dark, like the knife, try doing a base coat of white then your color and see if that makes your color brighter. Just make sure the white is totally dry before adding the color layer.
I use Testors model paint white for SAE sockets and red for Metric. A plastic razorblade won't scratch the surface. To apply the paint I use a broom straw. On impact sockets the black oxide coating can smear and leave a bit of discoloration, I can live with that.
@@ThingsMen Testors is an enamel paint, so it should have a durable finish. You'd just need to read the label to find out what base the model paint is.
I just paint the entire 13 mm tool orange. I can see that from the other side of the shop even if half the paint is chipped off. 12 mm tools are red and 14 mm tools are yellow. If you recognize my color pattern 👍 to you.
philliptoone. I haven't decipher your code [yet]. Red-12, 13-Orange and 14-Yellow is the only pattern that makes sense to me ( or in reverse order ). Wondering if yours is an electrical code, such as the old Christmas code of red/black/ white and Halloween of black/orange. Don't know if electricians still use those codes (?). So, at present, am dumfounded ( tho not the 1st time, nor surely the last ). Inquiring minds need to know . . . ☆
@@fjb4932 It's the resistor color code: 0 = Black 1 = Brown 2 = Red 3 = Orange 4 = Yellow 5 = Green 6 = Blue 7 = Purple 8 = Grey 9 = White I paint the entire tool (wrench/socket/etc) the color of the last digit of it size.
This system works for me because I already have the resistor color codes memorized. SAE sizes are a bit more tricky but I just change the fractions to 16th of an inch and apply the same pattern: 3/16 = 3 = Orange 1/4 = 4 = Yellow 5/16 = 5 = Green 3/8 = 6 = Blue 7/16 = 7 = Purple 1/2 = 8 = Grey 9/16 = 9 = White 5/8 = 0 = Black 11/16 = 1 = Brown 3/4 = 2 = Red
Ive been using wifey’s red nail polish for years to mark my tools. There are a few high use sockets that I need all the time when working on our John Deere. A dot or two on these ensures I grab the right one.
I've used automotive touch up paint and the clear coat to protect it afterwards. I've also used glow in the dark paint from craft stores and the automotive touch up clear coat and lasts a long time with the clear coat protection on it.
I find dropping a BB into the jar of polish helps mix it while shaking, like the marble in a paint spray "rattle" can. The hardest part of this is letting it dry long enough to stay in the grooves while cleaning off the surface, without requiring acetone to take it off the surface. If you do end up needing acetone, then you start over. (Just don't use acetone on plastic!)
Another trick is to use a syringe needle and inject the paint into the crevice. If you do the straw trick (dip needle into paint, finger over hole to create a "seal", then drip it in channel) there's no clean-up.
A blunt needle syringe would probably help with applying the polish only where you want it. If you wanted to get really fancy, colored resin might be an even more durable solution.
Ive done this with white out and nail polish remover (acetone) not sure if its diluted but it works great. Someone mentioned using white as a base layer well i guess white out would be like primer in this case. Proly thinner than nail polish but that's good if you're filling with nail polish anyway.
I have no idea what I was doing wrong, but I have tried this on a knife myself. The same brand and color of polish, alcohol, etc. I didn't have much luck. No matter how long I let it dry or be tacky. Gently wiping as you did, most of it came off. It was a stainless-steel hunting knife for my grandson at college in Me. When he comes home over the holidays I will try again.
Use a fine rag and don’t try to push down into the recessed area. Try and stay only on the top. Also in your case let it completely dry. Might take longer but should solve your problem. 👍🏻
I use nail polish for this and also as touchup paint on painted things like cars. I also use lipstick to mark things instantly like where to drill the hole for the deadbolt catch or marking cutouts for lights and outlets in drywall. Put the lipstick on the metal edge and place the drywall sheet on top. The lipstick will mark the cut lines on the back of the drywall. Only problem is I catch heat from other tradesmen for having nail polish and lipstick in my tool box.
I like to use the Zebra steel pens. For years now, when I buy new ones,the first thing I do is put a dot of (usually yellow) paint in the little dimple on the clicker button. More than once i have been able to identify my pens that someone might think is their's. On one occasion, I was able to see the the guy working at Lowe's was using *his* pen and not mine. I hope this helps someone.
Been doing this when I buy a pistol but I let it dry. I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover which works fine & preserves the gun finishes and plastics if you get sloppy. I tend to use white or gold as most of my pistols are black. I probably bought more polish than my wife has! 😮
Great job, I usually use a permanent red paint marker but for those just to play it safe I would have used painter tapes across the hex screws. The permanent paint markers work really well but I think nail polish would work much better. Thank you
I have done this before.but I use paint for model toy cars. And I clean the excess off with a Qtip and model paint remover. If your doing it to plastic. I just test the model paint thinner on the back of the plastic first. Can some plastic the paint thinner will give it a white haze or stain look. I did this on my emblem on my old classic car interior.
I use makeup sponges to remove old dry thermal paste, never thought of using them for this. Just need to be careful not to push too hard and remove the paint down in the letters and numbers.
ive done this with my guns, i dunno where i originally learned it from, but they said to use non acetone nail polish remover and it did actually work insanely well...on glock lettering it was like 3 swipes and i was done, not sure why it works but its something to think about lol
I have done this for years on some tools. It works great for stamped serial number plates also. On the srl# plates I paint, let it dry then remove the over layer with steel wool. It can then be polished if desired. It looks nice on custom engine parts too such as intake manifolds and valve covers that have machined in wording.
Only did this on my conduit benders to be able to read marks & #'s in dim areas. Will be trying this out. Thinking about one color foe SAE wrenches & sockets and a different color for metrics. Thanks.
I think a better method is buying one of those stiff wet sanding sponges, wrap a smooth rag around it, wet with solvent and use gentle wiping motions w/o pressing down hard. That sponge will not allow you to get into the deeper parts.
@@ThingsMen The Testors paints I use are the ones in the little glass jars. They are oil based and I've had them on guns and tools about 3 to 5 years with no issues. The high gloss acrylics may have a better shine, but I've never used them. I may have to try them out.
@@ThingsMen : You can see some shiny film around but it protect the lettering but they don't fade away. you have to reapply every so often to keep it coated if you use the buttons a lot.
I wonder if you could use a plastic razor blade (yes they really make such a thing). No experience doing this, but I do use plastic razor blades on surfaces I don't want to scratch.
I put a dab of red fingernail polish in the right ear bud of each set I own. That way I can see (and sometimes feel) which one is the right one. I remember by the mnemonic "right on red" or in this case "red on right. I wish manufacturers of electronics, in particular, would spend an extra penny or two and fill in lettering. Nothing is worse than black engraving on a black plastic object. Ever try to read the back of a TV or computer in subdued lightning, especially when you can't easily move the TV?! A little white or bright red paint would go a long way!
Create a small firm roller to gently paint the raised lettering. I used my punch set to cut a piece of very dense foam and mounted it to create a roller. I wish I could show a picture.
@@ThingsMen Could also cut a 1 inch wooden dowel, cover it with the fuzzy self stick velcro and mount it on a yoke to form a roller for raised lettering.
I'm trying to relate to this idea. Is the thinking that the time spent doing this will be made up in spending less time trying to see the metal stamp over the lifetime of its use?
@@Spagyr yes. Not all tools would require this as some are easier to see than others but small items like sockets are where you really start to see benefits. I would also only suggest doing this to your most used tools. No need to go and do to everything. 👍🏻
Can I use Cotton Candy Pink instead? That's what my wife has that she will let me use. She doesn't give up her fingernail polish easily. But then, there is the distinct possibility she was already mad at me.
@@ThingsMen man it looks great! Would you please share what brand and model that is? I subscribed and will be watching more of your vids for answering me. Besides I like your video style!
@@ThingsMen works good, and easy to change colors when you want. Done everything from wrenches,sockets, AR lowers, pistol slides and just about anything with text that is hard to see. Its durable and easy to touch up if needed.
@@ThingsMen It holds up very well since its in a recess. I have a set of large wrenches that are finished in black, use them daily. Filled in the text with an orange crayon, still look as good as the day I did them. That was a little over two years ago.
@@ThingsMen holds up very well since its in a recess. I have a set of large wrenches that are finished in black, use them daily. Filled in the text with an orange crayon, still look as good as the day I did them. That was a little over two years ago.
A trick I use to wipe off the excess is to use a single layer of the "rag" wrapped around something straight edged like a popsicle stick. I have found that my fingers reach into the recesses (especially large areas) a bit too much and remove more than I want.
Correct. I’ve done that too for larger openings. It’s key to hold it tight and not use too much down pressure. 👍🏻
@@ThingsMen for large surfaces I use packing or scotch tape and cut out the inside part of the tape, with a sharp knife.
Credit card is good too. Dollar tree has a squeegee that has a plastic and metal in one in craft aisle
If you're 'borrowing' your wife's nail polish, borrow a few of her makeup sponges or cotton swabs; dampened with thinner or alcohol, they're easier to use than a rag wrapped around a finger.
@ I’ll keep that in mind. I still like the rag though. 😉
I have tried all the different methods of painting the etching in wrenches, sockets, etc. and I always revert back to Oil base paint markers. You can purchase them in almost every color, and the colors you can’t, you can purchase empty markers and fill them with custom colors. Plus, you can buy the same color with different size nibs from ultra fine up to jumbo. So depending on what your working on you can select a marker with a tip that will work best for not getting paint anywhere you don’t want it
Thanks for sharing. 👍🏻
I use paint markers too, they work great.
@savage
Hey, thanks for the tip! Do you think it's safe do use your method on kitchen knives?
@ Yes, should work great. Like I said, make sure you use oil based paint and make sure you clean the knives very well. I would use a small brush and scrub them with alcohol. If you prep them well, the paint should last a long time. Anytime they start to fade or wear out just rinse and repeat. Keep in mind the deeper the etching or stamping is, the longer it will last.
@@savage6394
Ya, I just put some oil based ones in my Amazon cart after you suggested it. I guess what I really wanted to know is if the oil based would be safe to use on kitchen knives since they are going to be used for food prep. Or may e there's food safe versions? I appreciate the reply 👍
I use fingernail polish to highlight gun sights. I start with a single white coat as a primer to make the final color pop, let it dry and then follow with two coats of the final color such as bright red or whatever else, maybe neon orange. I let the color coats throughly dry between applications. Finally, I apply a clear coat nail polish hardener. This brightens the final color and keeps it from chipping. This treatment is very durable and will last for quite a while.
@@rebel-yellenterprises1479 yes that is getting fancy and I’m sure that turns out great with multiple coats. Thanks for sharing. 👍🏻
Great idea, been doing this for a while
I live with my wife and two teenage daughters, so I have just about every color in the world available to borrow. I have used it for tool IDs, like metric vs SAE. Nice idea on the knife. Wonder if using a plastic straight edge with the cloth soaked in alcohol would work better? That way the pad of your finger doesn't get into the crevices? Just a thought.
@@egbluesuede1220 lucky you. 😆 yes the flatter the surface the better. Also tight woven is much better than say a fiber cloth as you don’t want it to dig in or leave fibers behind.
Let us know if you get caught 😊
For the tight spaces using a toothpick instead of a brush can help get paint or your nail polish where you want it and not as much where you dont.
@@Alkatraz415 good point. 👍🏻
Yeah that can work very well. Be sure to clean surface first, with acetone or non residue solvent to help it stay better.
@@aubreyleonae4108
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@@ThingsMen
i see what you did there 😂
@@earthlingjohn 😉
I've used nail polish to do colour fills like this in the past, but I use oil paint marker pens now, because the excess paint is easier to wipe off cleanly.
@@drengskap I could see that process being a bit quicker. 👍🏻
Use white as a base layer, allow to dry, wipe, then add your color layer (red, blue, etc) I have been doing this for years. I also use the paint pens with fine tips for detail work.
@@steveniemyer9288 you’re the second one to recommend that route. 👍🏻
This is how I do it too, except 3rd layer is clear.
I have a number of similar keys on my keychain, so for 30 plus years I've color coded the keys with nail polish. Blue for the garage, red for the shed...etc.
Really useful under low light conditions, or in the dark to find the right key quickly.
@@chrisgraham2904 yes excellent use to help quickly identify any object you need quickly. 👍🏻
It works good to secure nuts on bolts too, as a weaker lock fluid.
@@akbychoice never thought of that. Thanks for sharing!
Wow, this guy should be nominated for a Nobel Prize
@@AbitWiser-m2k I accept nominations. 😉
I have used clalk pens on my black impact sockets. That seems to last pretty good. I am going to try the finger nail polish simply because it will shine and will be easier to see. Thanks for the tip
I’ve not tried the caulk pen idea. Polish is really nice and hardens nice and strong. 💪🏼
To get into the corners of tiny details to clean it out really well before applying the war paint, dip an old toothbrush in the alcohol and scrub away.
@@OneWildTurkey good idea. 👍🏻
I've done it that way on gun magazines with each one a different color so if one developed a reliability problem, then I could tell which one was bad. I'm going to try it on my tools.Thanks!!
Smart idea. Yes, i think you will enjoy this on your tool sets as well. I sure do.
Great Video, thanks. I learned recently that there is such a thing as plastic razor blades. Obviously they aren't razor sharp, but they are about as sharp as a plastic blade can get. The advantage of a plastic blade is that it won't scratch the item's surface like a true razor blade might do. They are also great for scraping off dried paint or other gunk in small confined spaces. By the way, be sure to read the label on your alcohol bottle. The video shows a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol -- which is what one should use. But ThingsMen initially referred to it as rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol typically contains a small amount oil, which will leave an oil residue that could prevent the paint from adhering well. Xylol (also called Xylene) is a good degreaser solvent as well and can be found at any hardware or big box store.
Yes you could use a plastic blade but I’m much more used to my method for delicate surfaces. 👍🏻
Good advice. I've got a bunch of those plastic razors - 3 colors for 3 hardness levels - and they're great for all sorts of surfaces to avoid damage. On plastic, paint, wood... much safer than metal blades. They dull up fast but might be refreshed on a diamond sharpener, haven't tried it yet.
When it comes to tool steel like a wrench shown in the video, the standard metal razors ought to be fine. On other items like a knife casing, of course, scratching & gouging is a big risk.
I use bright yellow nail polish to identify my tools. Placing dots in places that won't get worn away. Also all garden tools have dots and/or yellow tape to be seen easily in the grass or soil. Good video 👍
Those are great ideas as well. Thanks for chiming in 👍🏻
When painting regular object the type or color of primer makes a difference in the final shade. When doing an object that is dark, like the knife, try doing a base coat of white then your color and see if that makes your color brighter. Just make sure the white is totally dry before adding the color layer.
@@tedyoung9825 fair point. 👍🏻
0000 steel wool works really well at getting the dried excess off chrome. Not sure about other finishes though
@@RobM184 I figured that would work pretty well too. Does it scratch the lower paint too?
I get the fine tip paint markers from the Walmart craft section. Paint in the areas and lightly rub the excess with a dry paper towel. Great video!
@@joeschmitz2790 that’s a great idea as well. 👍🏻
I use paint pens. Apply and wipe off with cotton cloth after you cap the pen. Works great every time!
Good process. 👍🏻
The fact that for DECADES socket/wrench numbers are/were small and hard to read is an indication of much larger problems.
I don’t think many will argue that. Personally I dread that many have gone the route of laser etching instead of stamping. 😠
I use Testors model paint white for SAE sockets and red for Metric. A plastic razorblade won't scratch the surface. To apply the paint I use a broom straw. On impact sockets the black oxide coating can smear and leave a bit of discoloration, I can live with that.
Model paint isn’t a bad idea either. Find one that dries hard enough?
@@ThingsMen Testors is an enamel paint, so it should have a durable finish. You'd just need to read the label to find out what base the model paint is.
I just paint the entire 13 mm tool orange. I can see that from the other side of the shop even if half the paint is chipped off. 12 mm tools are red and 14 mm tools are yellow. If you recognize my color pattern 👍 to you.
That works too. 👍🏻
philliptoone.
I haven't decipher your code [yet]. Red-12, 13-Orange and 14-Yellow is the only pattern that makes sense to me ( or in reverse order ). Wondering if yours is an electrical code, such as the old Christmas code of red/black/ white and Halloween of black/orange. Don't know if electricians still use those codes (?). So, at present, am dumfounded ( tho not the 1st time, nor surely the last ). Inquiring minds need to know . . . ☆
@@fjb4932 It's the resistor color code:
0 = Black
1 = Brown
2 = Red
3 = Orange
4 = Yellow
5 = Green
6 = Blue
7 = Purple
8 = Grey
9 = White
I paint the entire tool (wrench/socket/etc) the color of the last digit of it size.
This system works for me because I already have the resistor color codes memorized. SAE sizes are a bit more tricky but I just change the fractions to 16th of an inch and apply the same pattern:
3/16 = 3 = Orange
1/4 = 4 = Yellow
5/16 = 5 = Green
3/8 = 6 = Blue
7/16 = 7 = Purple
1/2 = 8 = Grey
9/16 = 9 = White
5/8 = 0 = Black
11/16 = 1 = Brown
3/4 = 2 = Red
Even if I have a draw full of unorganized, mixed (SAE & Metric) sockets I can easily find what I need because of the color system I've adopted.
Ive been using wifey’s red nail polish for years to mark my tools. There are a few high use sockets that I need all the time when working on our John Deere. A dot or two on these ensures I grab the right one.
@@markb8954 excellent idea!💡
my wifes red lipstick marks mine.
@@harleyhawk7959 😆
I've used automotive touch up paint and the clear coat to protect it afterwards. I've also used glow in the dark paint from craft stores and the automotive touch up clear coat and lasts a long time with the clear coat protection on it.
@@charlesb7831 nice. I like the glow in the dark idea 💡
I find dropping a BB into the jar of polish helps mix it while shaking, like the marble in a paint spray "rattle" can. The hardest part of this is letting it dry long enough to stay in the grooves while cleaning off the surface, without requiring acetone to take it off the surface. If you do end up needing acetone, then you start over. (Just don't use acetone on plastic!)
@@Sylvan_dB all good points. Thanks for sharing your process. 👍🏻
Great video! I’m going to try this on my tools. As my eyes get older every trick helps. Thanks again!
@@arthurjacobs5579 of course!
Another trick is to use a syringe needle and inject the paint into the crevice. If you do the straw trick (dip needle into paint, finger over hole to create a "seal", then drip it in channel) there's no clean-up.
I like that idea as well. Especially for those delicate projects.
A blunt needle syringe would probably help with applying the polish only where you want it. If you wanted to get really fancy, colored resin might be an even more durable solution.
@@SDWNJ resin would be a great 👍🏻
Ive done this with white out and nail polish remover (acetone) not sure if its diluted but it works great. Someone mentioned using white as a base layer well i guess white out would be like primer in this case. Proly thinner than nail polish but that's good if you're filling with nail polish anyway.
Great suggestion. 👍🏻
I have no idea what I was doing wrong, but I have tried this on a knife myself. The same brand and color of polish, alcohol, etc. I didn't have much luck. No matter how long I let it dry or be tacky. Gently wiping as you did, most of it came off. It was a stainless-steel hunting knife for my grandson at college in Me. When he comes home over the holidays I will try again.
Use a fine rag and don’t try to push down into the recessed area. Try and stay only on the top. Also in your case let it completely dry. Might take longer but should solve your problem. 👍🏻
Also... Don't use a terry cloth. Use a piece of old T-shirt material.
@@dontblameme6328 exactly that’s what I’m using. Try clutch gets into the cracks and makes a mess.
I never used the Anti wear stuff yet, but now I will try it! Thank you.
Great. Let us know how it goes. 👍🏻
What comes to mind are the plastic razor blades sold in Amazon. They seem to get good reviews, and I wouldn’t think they’d scratch the aluminum.
True but you would need to catch it while still tacky. Will still need to use a solution to get the fine leftover paint as well.
Or an old credit card or hotel key card works.
well if you melt them down and form a projectile, then launch it at the aluminium object at 1000m/s, then you would be surprised!
I use nail polish for this and also as touchup paint on painted things like cars. I also use lipstick to mark things instantly like where to drill the hole for the deadbolt catch or marking cutouts for lights and outlets in drywall. Put the lipstick on the metal edge and place the drywall sheet on top. The lipstick will mark the cut lines on the back of the drywall. Only problem is I catch heat from other tradesmen for having nail polish and lipstick in my tool box.
@@alanhall6909 😆
I like to use the Zebra steel pens. For years now, when I buy new ones,the first thing I do is put a dot of (usually yellow) paint in the little dimple on the clicker button.
More than once i have been able to identify my pens that someone might think is their's. On one occasion, I was able to see the the guy working at Lowe's was using *his* pen and not mine.
I hope this helps someone.
Not a bad idea. 👍🏻
Been doing this when I buy a pistol but I let it dry. I use non-acetone fingernail polish remover which works fine & preserves the gun finishes and plastics if you get sloppy.
I tend to use white or gold as most of my pistols are black. I probably bought more polish than my wife has! 😮
@@taepo333 haha don’t tell her that. 😉
nailpolish as well as many paints are semi transparent, if you give it a base coat white you will get a really popping color
@@EzenamiStudio yes thought about doing a white base coat first. 👍🏻
Great job, I usually use a permanent red paint marker but for those just to play it safe I would have used painter tapes across the hex screws. The permanent paint markers work really well but I think nail polish would work much better. Thank you
@@JS-ed2hg I’ve used both and they both work well. I find nail polish lasts a bit longer and dries harder. 👍🏻
*I've been doing this for the last 40 years (or more).*
@@BitSmythe sound like a trend setter. 👍🏻
Warm it with a propane torch, use a crayon (any color you like) and melt it in. Wipe off with rag. It lasts too.
Nice idea. What if I have extra warm pockets? 😬
I have done this before.but I use paint for model toy cars. And I clean the excess off with a Qtip and model paint remover. If your doing it to plastic. I just test the model paint thinner on the back of the plastic first. Can some plastic the paint thinner will give it a white haze or stain look. I did this on my emblem on my old classic car interior.
@@stevenpellegrino997 great tips. 👍🏻
On today's video on AllThingsMen we are gonna learn how to use nail polish...😢 😅
@@aussiehardwood6196 shared bro moment brought to you by TM. 😆
Wait until you hear how to use women's stockings to prevent your washer from clogging the utility basin drain!
@@Tony-rl2fr 😆🫡
Hey, if it works, it works 😎
@@Tony-rl2fr Panty hose works for an emergency drive belt to get you to town.
I have used mostly white out paint markers but I’ve never had this clean finish like how you showed! Very cool video!
Yes I imagine white out would work real quick. Thanks, finger nail polish does take a little longer but it is really durable. 👍🏻
I had found some matt nail polish that I use on things like that as it seems to match the anodyzed finish better and looks smoother.
@@triadxtechnologies good point. 👍🏻
I use makeup sponges to remove old dry thermal paste, never thought of using them for this. Just need to be careful not to push too hard and remove the paint down in the letters and numbers.
@@steveragsdale2358 I think that’s a logical idea. 💡 👍🏻
ive done this with my guns, i dunno where i originally learned it from, but they said to use non acetone nail polish remover and it did actually work insanely well...on glock lettering it was like 3 swipes and i was done, not sure why it works but its something to think about lol
Glad to see it worked on your Glock. I’ll have to remember the non acetone polish remover. 👍🏻
Glocks and Nail Polish go hand in hand..JK
@@bigdaddysshop8180 🫡
Nice! I've benn doing that for years!
Well you’re ahead of the curve. 😉
I have done this for years on some tools. It works great for stamped serial number plates also. On the srl# plates I paint, let it dry then remove the over layer with steel wool. It can then be polished if desired. It looks nice on custom engine parts too such as intake manifolds and valve covers that have machined in wording.
@@garyradtke3252 good points. I wonder how delicate you would have to be with the polishing though.
Nice (fingernail) tip (idea)! Bum Dum Tss. I just bought a set of milwaukee ratchet from home depot. Will try it out today.
😉 totally 👍🏻
Only did this on my conduit benders to be able to read marks & #'s in dim areas. Will be trying this out. Thinking about one color foe SAE wrenches & sockets and a different color for metrics. Thanks.
@@garbo8962 good idea. Yes I use red for metric and black for SAE as it is somewhat of an industry standard.
@@ThingsMen Back in the day when it was thought the metric system was a communist plot😀😀
@@Rudy32225 😆
What knife is it that has the snake head on it. Nice job highlighting it
@@yghpp8731 cobratec otf utility knives.
I think a better method is buying one of those stiff wet sanding sponges, wrap a smooth rag around it, wet with solvent and use gentle wiping motions w/o pressing down hard. That sponge will not allow you to get into the deeper parts.
@@XFBO I’ve done that as well and it works. 👍🏻
Acetone works really well to remove the nail polish. I use Testors hobby paints instead of nail polish. I used this on gun logos and tools.
@@ra8640 how does testers hold up long term? These acrylics dry hard and have a great sheen. 👍🏻
@@ThingsMen The Testors paints I use are the ones in the little glass jars. They are oil based and I've had them on guns and tools about 3 to 5 years with no issues. The high gloss acrylics may have a better shine, but I've never used them. I may have to try them out.
Plastic blades would be useful here. They are cheap and can be used in numerous applications.
@@jeffjacobs1503 possibly but timing would need to be paramount.
Cool! Wanna do that with my Leatherman so I quickly know which side the blade vs saw is on
Great idea. 💡
After it dries put clear nail polish to protect the finish.
@@Android_Warrior I like that idea. 👍🏻
@@ThingsMen : I do that to my car steering wheel buttons so they don't wear out.
@@Android_Warrior interesting. How does it perform? Does it leave a weird finish?
@@ThingsMen : You can see some shiny film around but it protect the lettering but they don't fade away. you have to reapply every so often to keep it coated if you use the buttons a lot.
Try artist acrylic colors applied with a tiny water color brush or toothpicks. Water cleanup.
@@walterbordett2023 nice touch. 👍🏻
Great I don’t see as well as I used to.
Have you got any ideas for the turn signal and wipers that are more like printed on the plastic.?
@@CSltz thanks. Are you wanting to print on plastic or paint?
@@ThingsMen print. What’s there is fading off.
@ oh the levers have their print fading off? I have that same problem. Would need to stencil them back on but I haven’t gotten that far yet.
Great idea! I will give it a try.
By the way, nice watch.
Thanks. Yea sorry about the close ups. 😆
I wonder if you could use a plastic razor blade (yes they really make such a thing). No experience doing this, but I do use plastic razor blades on surfaces I don't want to scratch.
Yes I have those but haven’t tried them on this. One other person mentioned this as well. I might have to give it a try.
I use old credit / gift cards to scrape anything where you're tempted to scrape with your fingernails. Works great cleaning in the kitchen too.
that's nice, better than permanent markers, i have to try it, thanks
@@virtualvirtual2362 of course. Might be a little learning curve but once you have it down it’s nice. 👍🏻
Cool trick!
@@Hogzsnotzv2 thanks. 🙏🏻
Try Scraperite plastic razor blades to squeegee the paint off the powder coated surface.
@@christopherdahle9985 I’ll keep that in mind.
What about using a gel polish and then hitting it with the UV light once you clean it all up?
@@timothysteadham331 never tried it. Any experience?
@@ThingsMen nope. Just a thought.
Nice Job!
Thank you! Cheers!🥂
Great idea, I suggest using plastidip.
Easy to scrape off with your fingernail.
@@brucehaulley8117 that works well too. Actually planning on a video for that soon. Stay tuned! 👍🏻
I've used a plastic razor blade on aluminum or laser etched plastic
@@alewis8765 great 👍🏻
Squeagy the excess with an old credit card or hotel key card while paint is still wet. Makes the final cleanup alot less.
@@dontblameme6328 I like the card idea. 💡
I put a dab of red fingernail polish in the right ear bud of each set I own. That way I can see (and sometimes feel) which one is the right one. I remember by the mnemonic "right on red" or in this case "red on right. I wish manufacturers of electronics, in particular, would spend an extra penny or two and fill in lettering. Nothing is worse than black engraving on a black plastic object. Ever try to read the back of a TV or computer in subdued lightning, especially when you can't easily move the TV?! A little white or bright red paint would go a long way!
@@caoimhin7122 you bring up some good points. I like the headphone trick. I do wish the black in black or any recess lighting had color as well. 👍🏻
Create a small firm roller to gently paint the raised lettering. I used my punch set to cut a piece of very dense foam and mounted it to create a roller. I wish I could show a picture.
@@Rudy32225 yes for raised that makes sense. 👍🏻
@@ThingsMen Could also cut a 1 inch wooden dowel, cover it with the fuzzy self stick velcro and mount it on a yoke to form a roller for raised lettering.
@@Rudy32225 crafty idea 💡
Because the Logo on the flip knife helps you identify what size it is.
@@paritee6488 most excellent train of thought. 😎
I use automotive touch up paint with pen/applicator to fill in the lettering on firearms
@@JeepinMaxx little more expensive but I imagine it looks great 👍🏻
I'm trying to relate to this idea. Is the thinking that the time spent doing this will be made up in spending less time trying to see the metal stamp over the lifetime of its use?
@@Spagyr yes. Not all tools would require this as some are easier to see than others but small items like sockets are where you really start to see benefits. I would also only suggest doing this to your most used tools. No need to go and do to everything. 👍🏻
I need to do this, the frustration of having to wear glass is even worst.
@@kkutube1972 easy enough to do. 👍🏻
Can use fingernail polish remover to clean the tool before/after painting.
@@larryjohns8823 correct. 👍🏻
I use plyers as fingernail removers
Good video
@@jimadkins4772 thanks 🙏🏻!
Great, I used to raid my mom fingernail polish to do this to my toys😂😂😂
@@ericpetteway3841 honest confession. 😆
The first 1:25 tells you how it’s done. Fill and scrape the excess off. You’re welcome
@@jeffreyesguitar5129 👍🏻
isopropyl on a blue shop towel set on the table?
@@KJ7JHN 🤷
Acetone is fingernail polish solvent. It works best.
@@oldguy7402 I don’t doubt that. It’s most aggressive but for more delicate and controlled cleaning I prefer alcohol.
That’s a first!
You made me watch paint drying😉
Seriously though, good job👍
Haha! Appreciate your feedback. Please consider sticking around for more videos. 👍🏻
Nail polish remover and a q-tip bud
@@chuckamdamyd yup done that as well. 👍🏻
i use something hard instead of my finger. that way it doesn't sink into the engravings.
@@IanSebryk yes that works as well. 👍🏻
Can I use Cotton Candy Pink instead? That's what my wife has that she will let me use. She doesn't give up her fingernail polish easily. But then, there is the distinct possibility she was already mad at me.
@@redfields5070 😆 it’s a judge free zone at this point. Use whatever you can. 🤣
Couldn’t you use a plastic/nylon scraper on the aluminum?
You could try if it’s still wet but it might smear. It dries quite hard.
A Toothbrush would work good on cleaning.
@@PreachTheGospel07 agreed for those hard to get spots. 👍🏻
If you use the wrench all the time, the engraving will build up grease and dirt.
@@diytwoincollege7079 true but would you prefer a greasy wrench or a clean one? Personally I like to do a quick clean after every job. 👍🏻
what knife is that?
@@law0472 cobrateck otf utility knife. I did a full review in an earlier video. 👍🏻
A couple of inches of frog tape will go a long way to minimizing any potential collateral damage.
But excellent results nonetheless!
@@RobertValdivia agreed but I’ve done this enough to feel plenty comfortable. Also not difficult to clean up or do a hard reset. 😉
A short would have done!
Might do one of those as well. 😉
Ive been doing this for years.
@@Stevehollywood43 overachiever. 😉
So first I need to get married to a woman that does her own nails. I then have to get nail polish from her. Challenge accepted.
TRUST ME. It's easier to ROB a Nail Salon than EVER deal with having a wife... STAY SINGLE MY FRIEND..
@@ohcrap3263 motivation 💪🏼
Sounds like an expensive approach lol
but you didn't use glitter polish for that extra bling
@@steveanimatrix3887 got me. 😉
Ever painted with toothpicks? With patients, great detailing tool.
Yes I have for very small and intricate work. 👍🏻
Model car paint worķs as good as polish
Yes not bad either.
Great tips!
Is that an all stainless/titanium Garmin F8 watch?! If so, I need you to PM me. If that’s even a feature on YT.
@@jacobm9697 thanks. Actually it’s a knock off. 😉
@@ThingsMen man it looks great! Would you please share what brand and model that is? I subscribed and will be watching more of your vids for answering me. Besides I like your video style!
@ search Temu. They are like $30. Actually really like it for the price. 👍🏻
I did that like 30 years ago...nothing new here!!
@@RUBICON-zu6wl atta boy! 😉
What about just pouring some epoxy in there?
@@gullenator1 I mean yes you can. Just touch it up before it cures. I don’t know how well it would adhere over time though.
Box of 64 crayolas and a heat gun work best.
@@Deezalmech that could work.
@@ThingsMen works good, and easy to change colors when you want. Done everything from wrenches,sockets, AR lowers, pistol slides and just about anything with text that is hard to see. Its durable and easy to touch up if needed.
@@Deezalmech how does it hold up to scratching? Wax based has me a little skeptical.
@@ThingsMen It holds up very well since its in a recess. I have a set of large wrenches that are finished in black, use them daily. Filled in the text with an orange crayon, still look as good as the day I did them. That was a little over two years ago.
@@ThingsMen holds up very well since its in a recess. I have a set of large wrenches that are finished in black, use them daily. Filled in the text with an orange crayon, still look as good as the day I did them. That was a little over two years ago.
Why can't I use my own polish
@@fredlomax9161 you can if you like. 👍🏻
I don't have a wife 😭😭 neither the nail polish 😭😭
@@pavankumar-xh5sp chop chop. 😆
Who used to take the little metal balls out mom’s nail polish?
@@FrameWorks-h2u can’t say I have.