An index for this video: 0:00 A quick exam of the clock 0:24 Repairing the cracks in the frame 4:23 Examining the movement for damage and dirt 6:17 Viewing the positions of the strike locking parts 7:56 Removing the levers, etc. from the outside of the movement 16:39 Removing the back plate 18:19 Briefly examining the anchor for wear 18:45 A tour of the going (run) and strike (cuckoo) trains 19:41 Removing the going train great wheel and examining its damage 21:39 Removing the wheels and examining them for damage and dirt 24:49 Removing the last of the levers 26:41 Removing the gathering pallet 29:27 Why not to disassemble the center wheel 30:08 The replacement going train great wheel 32:52 Examining the cleaned parts 33:38 Showing the levers that keep the bird out while it's cuckoo'ing 38:06 Correct placement of the warning wheel 38:47 Assembling the Going (run) train 40:09 Placing the back plate and crutch + anchor 40:56 Oiling the pivots 42:52 Adding front levers, etc. 44:52 Showing the hour and half-hour tabs 45:50 Adding the rack and snail, setting the position of the snail 47:55 Presing the gathering pallet on, in the right position 50:16 Testing the gathering pallet position, and locking 52:16 Adding the lift (star) wheel, cuckoo levers, and hammer 54:40 Setting the position of the lift (star) wheel 56:45 Adding the chains 57:38 Adding the movement to the case; pulling the chains through the case holes 1:00:55 Putting the bird on its perch; fastening the door 1:02:41 Adding the bellows 1:07:21 Testing the cuckoo bellows and bird 1:08:51 Adding the suspension rod, hooks, and loops 1:10:33 Adding hands, running the clock on a test stand
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make such a well made, detailed video.I have one clock working and I picked one up that hopefully just needs cleaning but have this is in case I need to dig deeper. You have a good camera to stay in focus on the close ups. These are such fascinating machines and you have probably saved many by giving out these instructions. You say you are a retired teacher, not really, you continue to teach, and we appreciate it!
Thanks for the comments. The camera is a 6 year-old Sony Handycam. Nothing special. For really close shots, I put my magnifier lamp in front of the camera.
Very similar to one I am working on. This one belonged to my parents and I believe was a wedding present to them in 1960, I will check the date code on the plates when it comes out of the ultrasonic. Very informative video as always. Great job
I got our cuckoo clock running after watching this to make sure I took it apart (and put it together) in the right order. The lever inside that prevents cuckooing had been stuck so the clock would either not cuckoo at all or it would cuckoo the weight all the way down. Cleaned and lightly lubed and now she runs fine. I used a needle to oil it after watching you oiler. Thanks!
This video is wonderful. Not only did it answer my questions, the presentation was one of the best I have seen from any TH-cam video. Informative, great camera angles and lighting, and a perfect pace to follow long with. Thank you for producing it.
Great videos , learning a lot. Based on the skills that you show and the tools that you have I take it that you do this professionally. Wishing you good health!
Hey Don, I hope your health continues to improve over time. I have noted that your videos, which I thoroughly enjoy, seem to just keep getting better and better. You obviously enjoy performing and teaching clock repair, and you are very good at it. In my opinion you make some of the most helpful videos out there, and I have seen many on this topic, including two online courses I've taken. I am 64 and just now learning to do this for a hobby before I retire. My experience has been in firefighting and fire protection, so this is completely different from my background. I have a lot to learn, including skills and knowledge that help when I need to 'figure things out'. I've watched all of your videos, most several times, and continue to learn from them. I especially like when you point out errors made by other repairers, and then take the time to walk us through the correct repair procedure for that situation. In my case, the more detailed the lesson, the better! Right now I am faced with replacing a small broken click spring on an old American E Ingraham movement from a small shelf clock. Since I've not yet found instruction on this particular subject, I thought I would ask you about it. How would you go about installing the new spring tab into the tiny hole provided, without breaking it, and so that it will be held in place firmly. I am a member of NAWCC and have read a few posts on there so far. But the solutions seem to vary greatly (heat it, twist it, punch it etc.) and I am now totally confused about how I should approach it. I have just ordered a variety of click springs from Timesavers, and although I don't yet own a lathe, I have accumulated many of the hand tools necessary in the trade. Thank you for your invaluable support of new technicians, and your contributions to the art of clock repair. John
Thank you for the nice comments. I, too, when working with clocks, am working outside my profession. I was a science teacher and clock repair has been a hobby for more than 50 years. I am not an expert by any means. When I make a video, it is made with the intent of informing the owner of the clock as to what was done to it and I talk as I work as if the owner were there watching. As far as your question, I'm not quite sure what you are asking. When you say "broken click spring", so you mean the spring or the click itself? The click is the brass pawl that impinges on the teeth of the winding ratchet. The spring is the wire that puts pressure on the brass click to keep it engaged with the ratchet teeth. If it is just the spring that is broken, it can be replaced with brass spring wire or fine music wire. From your description of a "hole", I'm assuming you mean that the entire click and spring assembly is to be replaced. With that in mind, I would first file down the peened-over end of the rivet that holds the click, then punch out the rivet, supporting the brass wheel spoke with a steel bench block. If the hole is too small for the rivet that comes with the replacement click enlarge it with a broach to the required size. Then, placing the flat head of the rivet on a steel block with a thin shim between the rivet head and spoke to prevent it becoming too tightly attached, peen the small end of the rivet carefully and slowly until it is firmly attached to the spoke of the wheel. The spring, of course, is just folded over the top of the click and hooked under the tab on the wheel. Things will work better if you have clicks and springs made for Ingraham. timesavers.com/i-9994319-ingraham-clicks-rivets-springs.html
Thank you Don for your quick response. The broken part I am referring to is the click ‘spring’. The actual click and the rivet holding it in place are fine. In this case, it looks kind of like a Timesavers #128 click spring, part number 20040 in the same section as the link you sent me. The spring is installed parallel to the surface of the great wheel, anchored by the tab, or tabs in a small hole in the wheel. The long part of the spring of course makes contact with the back side of the click to apply tension on it. That spring snapped off at the top of the tabs. The tabs remained lodged in the hole where they were installed. I have carefully driven the broken tab out of the hole to make room for a new one. Now my question is simply, how do I install the new spring tabs into the now vacant hole snuggly to hold it in place, without bending or breaking the new spring?
OK! We're not on the same page. When you said old American Ingraham shelf clock, my vision was of a typical American style movement. I haven't a clue as to what movement you are referring. It might be helpful for you to make a comment with your email address and I'll contact you and you can send pictures. I hold comments for approval, will copy your email and delete your comment so your email will never be seen except by me. The spring you refer to is normally pressed into holes smaller than the tabs and are very secure. To replace that type, I would install the tabs into the original holes and then use a sharp punch to close the holes tightly around the tabs.
Hi Don, good to see you back on TH-cam more importantly i'm sorry to here you had a mini stroke i hope you are recovering well and not chasing those skunks around ;o), excellent video and well explained as usual mate, people can learn a lot from your videos there as good as going to clock school.
Thanks for your concern. I've had very painful problems with my hip and have to walk with a cane. The cane, in turn, has caused my hand to swell and cause a carpal tunnel problem. In October, I called to see an orthopedist, took until December 23 to get an appointment. They want to give me a cortisone injection, but that can't be done until February 3. Then who knows how long until a permanent solution will be. In the meantime, I'm being seen by a neurologist because of a minor stroke I had on December 21 and he wants neurological tests done on my lumbar spine and wrist. Says he thinks my hip problem could be a pinched nerve in my lower back, but those test couldn't be scheduled until late MAY! Meantime, I'm in really bad pain, can't walk worth a damn and can't use my hands efficiently, so working on clocks is really slow and cumbersome. Seems our medical system is going to hell in a handbasket, at least for Medicare patients. Hopefully, I'll find some solution soon. I need to get back to work on the bridge, pond and skunks come spring.
@@dperry428 that is total BS DP that you have to wait until May. What a really crappy way for the older folks that built our nation to be treated. It's an outrage.
Talking to the neurologist about it and he says that there are fewer doctors and they're getting overwhelmed. Turns out his cohort that I'm going to try to see is the cousin of a doctor that passed away a year or so ago that I knew and taught his son when the son was in 8th grade. He's a doctor now, too. Maybe that can help speed things up a bit, though I should just wait my turn. At least when I'm working on a clock, I'm sitting and don't have a lot of pain. Fingers on my right hand are swollen and makes it hard to use hand tools, though.
Mr perry another amazing video,its nice to see another video from you showing us your priceless knowledge,your doing an amazing job of it,thank you so much,if you keep em coming ill keep watching
First of all, I wish to thank you very much,had some time and I had cleaned my Cuckoo clock managed to arrange bottom chain winding wheel, I was lucky enough had lifted up with a watch screwdriver and straightened it to its original shape, thanks for your beautiful sharp and very understanding video many thanks for your time, This was done while I`m home " lockdown period COVID-19 "Many Thanks again wish everyone to stay safe
I have this exact clock. Everything is good except the bellows were ripped. Im just going to order some bellow toppers and bellow rods due to them being missing. Glad to see a video on this in case mine ever messes up lol.
Hi Don. This is Jason. Thank you so much for repairing this clock for me. It really means allot to me as it was my Grandfathers. What an incredibly neat video showing the steps taken to repair and maintain this clock. I will certainly be more careful with it but now should a repair need to be made I can reference this video. I tried calling you the other day but your voicemail was full. I'll try to give you a ring tomorrow. Thank you again so much.
Hi, I am so glad you are able to do a clock. I know the pain is bad ,but it looks like you are somewhat pain free when sitting and working.I hope you will be able to continue your great work. I always learn something new from your vids.
Sitting works for me. My right hand, though is swollen and restricted in motion and strength. Still have a couple more clocks to do. Working on a New Haven tambour mantel clock. Every pivot hole needs rebushed. It's going to take me a while to get that one done.
You make a good Job. I'm repairing Cuckoo Clocks and other Clocks. At the Moment i repair a Vienna Wallclock and restore the Case. The Cable was broken. I will make a Video of it in the next time. Best reguards from Germany. Eike
This is great! Thanks for this. I bought one of these movements and I want to repair it but I was afraid to take it apart. But now I feel like I can do it since I have this as a reference.
Here in my city, watchmakers buy them very expensive just to clean and lubricate them. I disassemble my cucco myself and put it back together.👉👉👉 now I break the gear pin that makes the cucco sing at half hour and full hour. I soldered the gear pin myself with tin and everything is fine. In this life we have to be determined 🙏🏻
Tools you need depends on the depth of repairs you want to do. Most work, with the exception of bushing and replacing pivots, can be done with common household or workshop tools, such as pliers and screwdrivers. I use a an adjustable arm lamp with a central magnifier that I got at Office Max. One like this: www.amazon.com/Neatfi-Bifocals-Magnifier-Dimmable-Adjustable/dp/B07P6FWT47/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=pmvviwdvBGmjOppT6liEdw&hsa_cr_id=4928768120901&ref_=sb_s_sparkle For other suggestions, try reading some of these threads from the forum of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) mb.nawcc.org/search/22161238/?q=tools+for+clock+repair&o=relevance
Great video. One of the best tutorials I have ever seen. Very informative and clear instructions. I am wondering what you use to clean the wheels and plates, especially to get rid of rust, etc..? Thanks.
After running the parts through an ultrasonic cleaner, I use this www.lowes.com/pd/Gel-Gloss-16-fl-oz-Shower-Bathtub-Cleaner/50305771 Each part is scrubbed with a toothbrush and the polish. Each leaf of the rusty pinion gears is polished with a toothpick charged with the polish. Straight up elbow grease. After drying the parts are polished with a polishing cloth and hand-buffed with a soft, clean brush to remove any residue.
Wish you were repairing this for me lol...Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You helped me identify and name the broken wheel along with showing me how to repair that wheel. You saved my wife's cuckoo click that was left to her from her grandmother. I honestly was terrified to try and repair it until I found these videos. Thank you Father Time 😊 Can I get that part # for the run side chain wheel from timesavers?
@@dperry428 I'm sorry I don't even know how I'd do that? Thank you for getting back to me if I were to send you an e-mail with video or a photo? Would you be able to identify which one I need through a video or a photo via email? If so I can definitely get that right over to sorry to be a pain LOL
It's a Regula 25 movement. Is the pendulum 7 3/4" , 9 1/4" , or 11 1/4" ? Measure the pendulum length and pick the chain wheel that matches that length.
I love your videos and how you teach repair... I would like to know where you buy tools or supplies. I need wire for mine and one I bought on ebay. Thank you
Hello new viewer and subscriber. Your videos are amazing and thank you for taking the time to be so helpful. Can you recommend a good repair books for cuckoo clocks ? Thank s
I have never read any repair books on cuckoo clocks, so I can't recommend any. I suggest going to Amazon, search for cuckoo repair books and reading the reviews to find one or more that might be helpful.
From the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) forum. mb.nawcc.org/search/24940435/?q=recommend+cuckoo+repair+book&o=relevance Try reading some of these threads for suggestions.
These cuckoo clock videos remind me of when I was young my mom bought a cuckoo clock when the clock struck midnight and yhe cuckoo would cuckoo 12 times my dad made my mom lock the cuckoo door lol.
Another excellent video! Tell me, at 38:37 I hear a small clock strike. What clock is that? It sounds so neat, and I hear it a lot in your videos. Thanks.
It's a small, round 8-day Herschede movement that was in a case that originally contained an electric clock. I rebuilt the movement and am looking for an appropriate case to put it in. It strikes on 2 stacked bells and has a hairspring escapement. I keep it running on a shelf because I like the sound of the strike.
I just bought a cuendet swiss musical movement cuckoo clock-6732-36 in an auction. This a Edelweis Lara's Theme from Dr. Zhivago...It was mentioned as never been tried but when I put things up it does not work. The pendulum does not work.. Please advice
Diagnosing a non-functional clock over the internet is like asking what is wrong with a car that won't start. You might make sure the clock is level on the wall and the clock is in beat (the ticking is even). It may need cleaned and oiled. I just can't be of assistance from afar.
Great video as usual. Very informative. I worked on a similar movement and after I had cleaned and put it back together it works fine. time and strike are good but sometimes it cuckoos 12 on the 11th hour and on the 12th hour it cuckoos 12. Some times it skips an hour. like cuckoos 7 at 7 oclock then 9 on 8 oclock. I checked the rack and snail and they seemed lined up properly. Any thoughts? thanks
What you describe happens when the rack tail is not in the center of a snail step at the hour. Especially at 11 and 12 o'clock, where the steps are relatively tiny, there is a chance the rack tail and, thus, the rack will not fall the proper number of teeth. Also, check to see that the small detent that is lifted by the cams on the minute shaft is not sometimes missing the cam because it is very slightly out of alignment.
Thank you for the indepth share. I have a Hubert Herr cukoo of my grandpas that I figured I'd give it a go. Seems to be seized up. My dilemma is I only see the Zenith solution come in a gallon for the ultrasonic bath cleaning. Are there any other options out there for cleaning or is there a place where I can get a small batch. Much appreciated! Stay well.
The important thing is to remove the dirt, oil and grease. You don't need an expensive cleaning solution if you expend some elbow grease. Some Dawn dishwashing soap in hot water, scrub with toothbrush, rinse well in hot water, hand dry, rinse in 95% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and blow dry with compressed air or a hair dryer. The alcohol will remove water from between assembled parts such as chain wheels. Shiny brass parts are not necessary for proper function, but a bit of household ammonia added to the soapy solution will clean the brass. Fine (0000) steel wool will remove rust from steel parts. Stay away from solvents, especially with clocks that have plastic parts. Peg out the pivot holes with toothpicks.
Rust is usually limited to arbors and pinion gears. I scrub them with a toothbrush charged with a mildly abrasive acrylic tub and shower polish. Then, to get any rust out of a cut pinion, I use toothpicks and the same polish to get between each leaf of the pinion. Absolutely no sandpaper -- much too coarse. If brass gears are stained, I use the same polish and toothbrush treatment. If stains are deep, I use 0000 steel wool.
Thank you for all the great videos! I never would have attempted restoring my childhood cuckoo clock without watching them. I have disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the movement but have one remaining issue that I am hoping you can help me resolve. Everything seems to work fine except my clock does not gong or cuckoo on the half hour. I never thought to test the half hour gong/cuckoo before I reinstalling the movement. Looking through the circular side panel, I can see that the warning wheel pin is released on the half hour and the wheels start to spin but the gong & cuckoo are not activated. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for any advice you can share.
It is really difficult to diagnose a problem without examining the movement, but here's a guess. On the center shaft, as you likely know, there are two lifting cams, one for the hour and a shorter one for the half-hour. It seems that something is interfering with the levers being lifted sufficiently or the lever that interfaces with the rack is hanging up and not allowing the lever that is holding the warning pin on the warning wheel to be released. All I can suggest is that you remove the movement, put it on a test stand and carefully examine the functioning of all the part on the front of the movement. I know it a PITA, but there have been time when a problem has caused me to remove a movement half-a-dozen or more times until I finally found the problem.
@@dperry428 Thanks for your quick reply. I appreciate your help! I plan to investigate the problem with my clock as soon as I have a few free hours. Thanks again.
I pray this finds you in great health and enjoyed your videos! I have a Black Forest coo coo clock that I took apart, cleaned, reassembled, and oiled with 40 weight Synthetic oil - just on the pivots. Everything works great, but the clock has started to slowdown, even after adjusting the pendulum height the clock remains slow by three minutes. Any suggestions?
Make sure the hands are tight. Neither hand is rubbing either on the dial or with each other. Make sure the clock is level and plumb so that the ticking is even. Is the pendulum leader swinging freely in the slot in the case and not rubbing on the edges? Changes in temperature and humidity can also affect the timekeeping. Hanging it in a kitchen will subject it to such changes. Or, hanging it near a heating or cooling vent will affect the pendulum length. The pendulum rod is wood, which can absorb moisture or dry out, changing both its weight and length. The bob itself is also wood, which can expand and contract. The period of a pendulum is determined by the length from the center of mass. Changing the center of mass by adding or losing weight or adding or losing length will change its center of mass. With its open pendulum, it's important that the clock not be hanging in a place where it is subjected to breezes, such as near a door that is opened and closed. The more constant the environmental conditions (temperature and humidity), the more likely to have a more accurate clock. A cuckoo clock, though, is not a precision timepiece. Don't expect it to keep time with the precision of a quartz movement. Your description is a bit confusing. A clock can only "remain slow by three minutes" if you don't move the hands forward to the correct time. In how long a period does it lose, say, 3 minutes? Per hour? Per day? If it's 3 minutes per week, that's pretty good for a cuckoo clock. Moving the pendulum bob higher on the wooden stick will make it run faster. I don't know the conditions where you've placed the clock, but I'm reminded of my father-in-law, who had hung a cuckoo on the wall behind the couch and was having fits trying to get it adjusted for time until he came upon his pet cat sitting on the back of the couch, pawing at the moving pendulum. When the cat got bored, he'd swat at the pendulum -- not a condition for good timekeeping.
@@dperry428 I have the clock in a low traffic area; however, to maintain a constant ticking from the pendulum, the clock has to be tilted a few degrees. Nothing is bent or warped that I noticed. Is that tilting part of my problem?
You'll need to bend the crutch (the wire from the anchor that the pendulum leader goes through) left or right until the clock ticks evenly when the clock is plumb and level. That's difficult to do when the clock is not on a test stand where you can see the clock running. When the clock has to be tilted to run, there is the possibility that the pendulum leader ends up touching or rubbing on something. The clock must have an even tick when it is level. That's about all I can advise.
Hi: I have a regula cuckoo clock movement that I recently restored. I tested it for three days and it works great yet when I install it in the clock it strikes 13 times regularly. There are no obstructions when installed. I believe that the rack is somehow the issue. Can you provide some professional advise? Really appreciate your videos . Merry Christmas.
First, I'm not a professional; just a hobbyist. Without examining it, I can't be very definitive, but I'd look for something keeping the rack from being lifted with each cuckoo. Sounds like the rack is moving freely out of the case, and possibly rubbing or touching the inside of the case when installed. Look at the post on which the rack is mounted. Is it even the slightest bit loose on the plate? That could explain the problem. How much play is in the rack on the post? If it wobbles a lot, that could be a problem. Rack should not deviate from its intended position.
Great video. I always learn new things from you. I cleaned a similar movement the other day and it works fine but the door opens and the bird comes out when the clock goes to warning and stays open until it finishes cuckooing then it closes. The door doesn't close fully though. any thoughts?
The second wheel has two tabs on the arbor that push the door open. They need to be repositioned so the do not start pushing on the door too soon. That's also the wheel that has the gathering pallet attached to the outside front of the movement. It will also have to be repositioned, as well as the pin on the third wheel. It's a matter of being aware of all those parts when reassembling the movement.
@@dperry428 Thank you very much. You are right. I removed the gathering pallet but i forgot to take a photo of the original picture of the tabs related to the gathering pallet when it was resting. The warning wheel's pin was facing up and the gathering pallet was in the resting position. Do you think the tabs should be vertical or horizontal when the gathering pallet is in resting position?
@@dperry428 Awesome. thank you very much. I have to say that you are by far the best clock repair teacher I have ever seen. You are very talented and you have the ability of explaining things easily. Thanks a lot and stay safe.
I am working on an older Regula 1 day movement. No numbers identifying the movement, just the Regula name, pat. number and made in Germany. It seems similar in layout to the 25 but the Star wheel is located within the plates attached to the Strike chain gear. I am having difficulty removing the gathering pallet. It is on very tight. I am afraid of breaking it since it seems to be attached to a wheel arbor. Would a gear puller be the thing to try? Thanks for your help.
I'm not familiar with that movement with the star wheel between the plates. A gear puller would work if the pin is small enough to push on the arbor. Otherwise, wait until you take the plates apart, then support the front plate around the arbor that has the gathering pallet on it and drive the arbor end off the gathering pallet with a small punch. When you reassemble, put it back on with a hollow punch.
@@dperry428 Thanks, I will try that. I am ready to separate the plates and clean. Thanks for your advice! I have been studying your videos to take it apart correctly.
The lever that catches the teeth of the rack has an extension further up on it that, when the lever drops under the end of the rack, pushes down on the end of the lever that has the hook that holds the door open causing the hook to lift and release the bird. Watch here: th-cam.com/video/lhR6SHQdnjk/w-d-xo.html
Thank you i just went through one that belonged to my grandmother was sent home from a cousin who was ststioned in germany in the 60s got it back together music playes every thong good except bird would not retract figured out one of those lock washers came loose and arm was riding out and binding on gathering palet love your videos could not have done it with out them !
Great video very well detailed. I fix my cuckoo clock regular 25 because of this video. Thank You dperry428. But, my cuckoo clock has a music box with dancing boy and girl. The arm that triggers the music how do I set this arm so it triggers the music box lever? dperry428 do you a video installing the arm to trigger the music box on Regular 25? What hour it should be best to set it 1, 2, 3, 12, etc, and is the metal arm put on 5 minutes before the chosen hour strike? Regular 25 has the engraved stamped of 87, I assumed this means 1987 clockworks, hunter's clock with music on the half-hour and hour. The arm that strikes the lever of the music looks like a backward 7 with an extra thin wire that stops the fly on the music unit.
Keep in mind that Regula makes the movements and clock makers buy their movements from Regula. The design of how a music box is actuated varies considerably from clock to clock. Without seeing the way yours works, I can't be of much help. Here is a video of one I repaired and I explain how this one works. th-cam.com/video/h_3lSK0BDAQ/w-d-xo.html Yes, the 87 is probably the year of manufacture.
Hello DP, Greg here. I hope this finds you well ! I want to thank you for such an informative video!!! I'm hoping I can pick your brains for a minute. The collar that is above the star gear on my clock does not have a screw. Is that pressed on, or screwed on? How do I remove it? Looking forward to hearing from you, sending prayers for smooth surgeries and a speedy recovery! Thank You, Greg
That star wheel is pressed on in later movements. It was done as a cost saving in manufacturing. Simply press it on and one saves several steps. No hole to drill and tap, and eliminate one screw. Saves them money, makes repair another nightmare. In most cases, I've been able to remove it using a crow's foot tool. In other cases, it can be removed by holding the arbor between the plates with a long-nosed vise grip plier and then grasping the brass collar with another plier and twisting it off. It may also be helpful to heat the collar with a small butane torch to expand it slightly and then pull it off. The space between the wheel and the plate is very narrow and you have to be careful to not bend the wheel. When I finally get it off, I drill and tap a hole in the side of the collar to fit a small screw. I also broach out the hole so it will slip onto the arbor. This makes the movement like those of old. The next repair person can then remove it easily. It also makes it easy to adjust the wheel after reassembling the movement. If all fails and you destroy the wheel, buy a new one from Timesavers. timesavers.com/i-8950779-actuating-cuckoo-wheel.html
Holy moly !!! That was a incredibly quick response!!!! I’ll take your advice and git-r-done! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge, I’ll let you know how it goes. If you ever need an Apprentice, give me a holler!!!😉
The oilers come as a set of three, one red, one yellow, one blue. They vary in size of the tip. The larger tip picks up more oil. I use the oiler that works best on the movement pivot holes or I use the one that I happen to have out. Most times, it doesn't matter which one I use. If I've used one of them with another substance, such as Loctite, I won't use it for oiling until I can clean it so, I'll use the other one.
I can't answer that question. The clock may simply not be level or out of beat, it may be dirty and needing cleaned and oiled, it may have worn parts and be in need of repair.
Dear Mr. Perry, you mentioned something in this video that might help me understand why my clock isn't making any noise at half hour and it also is not releasing the catch on the music wheel so that the music starts. Since these parts are close to each other it might be the same problem causing both. The thing you mentioned is that arm with a hole in it that sticks from the side was the half hour trigger. Maybe something is wrong with mine that causes it to not make a sound at half hour and to not start the music at the normal time. The cookoo and gong works perfectly when it is exactly at the hour. For you this is probably something so easy but I can't tell what is wrong. Thank you! Oh when you are bored you might like some of our videos too. We found your channel today and it's the best one for understanding the clocks.
Oh, also I can hear the clock try to do something on the half hour and I can hear it trying to do something to release the music also. If I move the little arm out of the way after I hear this noise, then the music starts correctly when it is supposed to, but if I don't do that the music never starts.
Some cuckoo clocks with music are designed to play music on both the hour and half-hour and some are designed to play music only on the hour. Trying to adjust the music release mechanism on the half-hour when it is not designed to do so may result in jamming on the half-hour. Since there are numerous designs for music box release, I can't provide any further guesses as to what the problem might be with your particular clock. Try setting it to play music just on the hour and see how it works for you. The sound you hear on the half-hour is a further clue that it is jamming because it is set to do something it was not designed to do.
Sir, what solution did you use to clean? Sorry if this was already covered. And did you drop the rack and snail metal items in the same solution? Again, thank you!
Hello again. I just got a few movements to work on for practice. They all seem to be in decent shape. I’ve cleaned in ammonia but not experienced enough to fully disassemble yet., One problem I have is that it counts the hour correctly yet in next hour it will go back one hour and count one less. Any ideas why? Same movement as the one you are working on in this video., Many thanks
Look at the front of the movement and the interaction of the rack and snail. At the hour, the rack tail, the part that drops onto the snail, should drop onto the middle of a step on the snail. If it is too far back on a step, it may not drop onto the next step the next hour but fall onto the forward edge of the same step as the hour previous. If that is not the problem, the check for the rack not falling freely or the gathering pallet pin not allowing the rack to drop completely each time.
dperry428 so I think it’s fixed. The tab that drops onto the snail from the rack looked like it was too far forward. I just bent it back and it seems to have fixed it. Thank you
Rather than bending the tab, it is better to remove the "e" clip and washer from on top of the intermediate wheel so that the snail can be pulled forward to disengage the teeth and move it one or more teeth until the rack tail falls onto the center of the step on the snail. Then, put the washer and "e" clip back on.
dperry428 just figured that out now, and your comment reassures me. It Takes a lot of looking and thinking but it’s very obvious in the end. Tiny adjustments. It falls as you said earlier just too far forward. 👍🏻
It is likely in beat without the pendulum, but is out of beat with the pendulum. Listen to the tick. Is it even ? If not, you'll have to bend the pendulum leader a bit to bring the ticking in an even beat. Check out this video th-cam.com/video/p7H2dgkbMU4/w-d-xo.html
I too have a regula #25 that has the detents bent on the time side chain wheel. mine is like the one you show except the plastic wheel is pushed on close to the chain gear. time savers does not have a wheel in the configuration that I have, and I have been all over the networks with no success, any suggestions?
@@dperry428 No, on mine the brass gear then the chain gear then the plastic gear all touching . Have you ever taken this gear apart to replace just the detent inside?
I'd sure like to see a picture of the one you have. I can't imagine the plastic gear being any closer than some of those available from timesavers. No, I don't take them apart, but you can try. The replacement detents are available. While you're at it, make sure you check for cracks in the plastic gear.
I have a Black Forest Cookoo clock that my best friend brought from Germany to me in 1987. It has a metal lever on the right side of clock (if you are looking at the face of clock. What is the purpose of this lever.
Without seeing it, I'm guessing it's a nighttime shutoff. Some people don't like the cuckoo making racket at night, so some cuckoos have a shutoff that can stop the cuckoo strike at will. The clock continues to run, but doesn't cuckoo the hours until the lever is shut off again.
I got a Question about a Schneider Cuckoo clock I bought. It is an 8-Day Clock with 3 wooden like weights. It has the Cuckoo bird with the Dancing Music Box figurines it is around 26” tall. So here is the Trouble there is a Battery holder for 1 D Cell Battery that has an Electric Motor that the battery runs. It don’t Work so what kind of Cuckoo clock do I have? It has to go in for Servicing. I think it was Manufactured in Germany around 2000? Anyone know what kind of clock I have?
Is the movement a mechanical movement that requires having weights pulled up? If so, the battery might be used to run lights and/or animations. You indicate it is an 8-Day Clock, but also indicate it has "3 wooden like weights". If it is truly an 8 day clock, then it would have a mechanical movement, but if it has weights that look like wood, it is a battery operated clock and the weights are just decorative. Not enough information to know, except that I have never seen an Anton Schneider cuckoo that was battery driven.
I thought you meant on the face of the the clock. You mean how do I set the snail. If you look at the center shaft, it has two little cams on it. One is slightly longer than the other. The shorter one lift the strike mechanism on the half-hour and the longer one sets the strike mechanism on the hour. I turn the shaft until the longer lever is pointing up. Then, put on the rack and snail and set them so that the rack tail falls on the middle of one of the steps of the snail. The highest step is 1 o'clock and the lowest step is 12.
Thank you for asking. I had an injection in my hip three weeks ago and it was like a miracle. The next day, I was able to walk without pain. Without having to use the cane, the swelling in my hand has gone away and I'm feeling almost normal. I'm hoping this will be long-lasting. I'm working on a New Haven tambour mantel clock and will have another video up in the next few days. Two more clocks after that and I'm caught up with repairs.
Hello again. Hope all is well. When bushing is it important that they end up flush on the on the outside? Or is it just a matter of aesthetics. Bought an anvil today.
Of course, the bushings need to be flush with the inside. As to the outside of the plate, what's important is that the pivot extend all the way through the hole in the bushing. Making the bushing flush to the outside is aesthetic as well as good practice in making the repaired plate as near original in appearance as possible. If the bushing is high enough that the pivot does not extend entirely through the hole, the oil sink (chamfer) should be made deeper until the pivot clears the hole margin. When that is done, the edge of the bushing is usually nothing more than a thin edge extending beyond the plate and it is easy to remove that and the bushing will likely be very close to flush. A pivot that does not extend beyond the edge of the bushing hole will cause an unusual wear pattern within the hole that will result, eventually, in loss of end shake and excessive friction in the wheel train.
@@dperry428 dave, thank you for getting back to me so fast. I have a question about a regula movement that I have. Perhaps I can send you a video of what is happening to it so that you could get a better look at it and then give me your advice.
If you are still doing click repair, I have 2 cuckoo clocks that are in need of repair. I read somewhere that you only work on them during the colder months. Please let me know. Thank you so much.
Until this virus thing is settled, I don't want packages coming to my home. God knows who handles them in transit. I'm 77 and my wife s 76 and we are paranoid.
I know you are great with cuckoos. I love your step by step explanations. I always learn something. I have a three train musical movement cuckoo. Would you consider doing a complete disassembly , cleaning and reassembly video? This movement is very complicated for me so I would love to see how it is put back together with your excellent comments.This is a movement only. Let me know if you would like to do it and I can send it to you. Thanks Bob
I would love to accommodate you, but my current health simply will not allow it. I have three clocks to do, each of which is taking more and more effort as I lose manual dexterity. Time intervals between available doctor appointments are keeping me in physical limbo. The clocks I have to finish are all from local people and easily returned. Quite frankly, should my condition continue to deteriorate, I don't want to leave a mess to clean up. If things improve significantly, we can talk again if you haven't found someone to help you.
I'm not taking any clocks for repair at this time. When I am able to again, I ask people to just leave their email in a comment and I'll contact them. I hold comments for review before publishing so I can then just delete the comment. I'm probably facing hip replacement surgeries in the near future and I don't want to have clocks to repair when I don't know if I can get to them.
Every clock needs a clutch mechanism of some sort to allow the hands to be moved to set the time. If all the gearing were set solid, the only way to set the time would be to wait for the time on the clock to be the right time and then start the clock. The clutch mechanism allows the gears that make the hands move to slip when moving the hands manually. On some clocks, the intermediate wheel between hour and minute has a tension washer that allows the gear to slip when needed. On others, there is a coiled spring on the center arbor that presses against the gear and allows it to slip. On another, the minute shaft has two notches cut into the tube that allow it to form a compression fit that can also be slipped. I don't know what the mechanism is on your clock, but likely what is happening is that there is not enough tension in the system to make the gears move -- they are slipping too easily. It may also be because the hands are not tight enough due to a missing hand nut. Another possibility is where the gear that drives the hands is made of plastic and the plastic gear has cracked and is too loose on the arbor to drive the hands -- like this: th-cam.com/video/HVf9OdcCW-E/w-d-xo.html
It has 3 weights 2 of the weights work & the 1 weight don’t go down. It is a Hunters Cuckoo clock. I’m waiting for it. The Person said the Battery part don’t work. She called it Bird Whistle Pump Unit. It is a Mechanical Cuckoo Clock. The Battery Case is White Colored with a Black Wire & a Blue Wire on the other end. Of the single D Cell Battery holder. It’s 2 weights go down but the 3 rd one does not move. Above the Music Box is that Electric Motor & I can see some White Gears from the Picture. It will need to be Serviced can you do it? I live in Minnesota & no one here. You cannot shut the Couckoo off at night I can’t see that black lever on the Left Side of box.
An index for this video:
0:00 A quick exam of the clock
0:24 Repairing the cracks in the frame
4:23 Examining the movement for damage and dirt
6:17 Viewing the positions of the strike locking parts
7:56 Removing the levers, etc. from the outside of the movement
16:39 Removing the back plate
18:19 Briefly examining the anchor for wear
18:45 A tour of the going (run) and strike (cuckoo) trains
19:41 Removing the going train great wheel and examining its damage
21:39 Removing the wheels and examining them for damage and dirt
24:49 Removing the last of the levers
26:41 Removing the gathering pallet
29:27 Why not to disassemble the center wheel
30:08 The replacement going train great wheel
32:52 Examining the cleaned parts
33:38 Showing the levers that keep the bird out while it's cuckoo'ing
38:06 Correct placement of the warning wheel
38:47 Assembling the Going (run) train
40:09 Placing the back plate and crutch + anchor
40:56 Oiling the pivots
42:52 Adding front levers, etc.
44:52 Showing the hour and half-hour tabs
45:50 Adding the rack and snail, setting the position of the snail
47:55 Presing the gathering pallet on, in the right position
50:16 Testing the gathering pallet position, and locking
52:16 Adding the lift (star) wheel, cuckoo levers, and hammer
54:40 Setting the position of the lift (star) wheel
56:45 Adding the chains
57:38 Adding the movement to the case; pulling the chains through the case holes
1:00:55 Putting the bird on its perch; fastening the door
1:02:41 Adding the bellows
1:07:21 Testing the cuckoo bellows and bird
1:08:51 Adding the suspension rod, hooks, and loops
1:10:33 Adding hands, running the clock on a test stand
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make such a well made, detailed video.I have one clock working and I picked one up that hopefully just needs cleaning but have this is in case I need to dig deeper. You have a good camera to stay in focus on the close ups. These are such fascinating machines and you have probably saved many by giving out these instructions. You say you are a retired teacher, not really, you continue to teach, and we appreciate it!
Thanks for the comments. The camera is a 6 year-old Sony Handycam. Nothing special. For really close shots, I put my magnifier lamp in front of the camera.
Very similar to one I am working on. This one belonged to my parents and I believe was a wedding present to them in 1960, I will check the date code on the plates when it comes out of the ultrasonic. Very informative video as always. Great job
Thanks for the comment. The date codes didn't start until 1970. There would likely be a 2 digit actual date.
I got our cuckoo clock running after watching this to make sure I took it apart (and put it together) in the right order. The lever inside that prevents cuckooing had been stuck so the clock would either not cuckoo at all or it would cuckoo the weight all the way down. Cleaned and lightly lubed and now she runs fine. I used a needle to oil it after watching you oiler. Thanks!
I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching and using it.
This video is wonderful. Not only did it answer my questions, the presentation was one of the best I have seen from any TH-cam video. Informative, great camera angles and lighting, and a perfect pace to follow long with. Thank you for producing it.
Glad it was helpful!
Great videos , learning a lot. Based on the skills that you show and the tools that you have I take it that you do this professionally. Wishing you good health!
Thank you, but this is just a hobby that I've played with for more than 50 years. I'm a retired science teacher.
Hey Don, I hope your health continues to improve over time. I have noted that your videos, which I thoroughly enjoy, seem to just keep getting better and better. You obviously enjoy performing and teaching clock repair, and you are very good at it. In my opinion you make some of the most helpful videos out there, and I have seen many on this topic, including two online courses I've taken. I am 64 and just now learning to do this for a hobby before I retire. My experience has been in firefighting and fire protection, so this is completely different from my background. I have a lot to learn, including skills and knowledge that help when I need to 'figure things out'. I've watched all of your videos, most several times, and continue to learn from them. I especially like when you point out errors made by other repairers, and then take the time to walk us through the correct repair procedure for that situation. In my case, the more detailed the lesson, the better!
Right now I am faced with replacing a small broken click spring on an old American E Ingraham movement from a small shelf clock. Since I've not yet found instruction on this particular subject, I thought I would ask you about it. How would you go about installing the new spring tab into the tiny hole provided, without breaking it, and so that it will be held in place firmly. I am a member of NAWCC and have read a few posts on there so far. But the solutions seem to vary greatly (heat it, twist it, punch it etc.) and I am now totally confused about how I should approach it. I have just ordered a variety of click springs from Timesavers, and although I don't yet own a lathe, I have accumulated many of the hand tools necessary in the trade. Thank you for your invaluable support of new technicians, and your contributions to the art of clock repair. John
Thank you for the nice comments. I, too, when working with clocks, am working outside my profession. I was a science teacher and clock repair has been a hobby for more than 50 years. I am not an expert by any means. When I make a video, it is made with the intent of informing the owner of the clock as to what was done to it and I talk as I work as if the owner were there watching. As far as your question, I'm not quite sure what you are asking. When you say "broken click spring", so you mean the spring or the click itself? The click is the brass pawl that impinges on the teeth of the winding ratchet. The spring is the wire that puts pressure on the brass click to keep it engaged with the ratchet teeth. If it is just the spring that is broken, it can be replaced with brass spring wire or fine music wire. From your description of a "hole", I'm assuming you mean that the entire click and spring assembly is to be replaced. With that in mind, I would first file down the peened-over end of the rivet that holds the click, then punch out the rivet, supporting the brass wheel spoke with a steel bench block. If the hole is too small for the rivet that comes with the replacement click enlarge it with a broach to the required size. Then, placing the flat head of the rivet on a steel block with a thin shim between the rivet head and spoke to prevent it becoming too tightly attached, peen the small end of the rivet carefully and slowly until it is firmly attached to the spoke of the wheel. The spring, of course, is just folded over the top of the click and hooked under the tab on the wheel. Things will work better if you have clicks and springs made for Ingraham. timesavers.com/i-9994319-ingraham-clicks-rivets-springs.html
Thank you Don for your quick response. The broken part I am referring to is the click ‘spring’. The actual click and the rivet holding it in place are fine. In this case, it looks kind of like a Timesavers #128 click spring, part number 20040 in the same section as the link you sent me. The spring is installed parallel to the surface of the great wheel, anchored by the tab, or tabs in a small hole in the wheel. The long part of the spring of course makes contact with the back side of the click to apply tension on it. That spring snapped off at the top of the tabs. The tabs remained lodged in the hole where they were installed. I have carefully driven the broken tab out of the hole to make room for a new one. Now my question is simply, how do I install the new spring tabs into the now vacant hole snuggly to hold it in place, without bending or breaking the new spring?
OK! We're not on the same page. When you said old American Ingraham shelf clock, my vision was of a typical American style movement. I haven't a clue as to what movement you are referring. It might be helpful for you to make a comment with your email address and I'll contact you and you can send pictures. I hold comments for approval, will copy your email and delete your comment so your email will never be seen except by me. The spring you refer to is normally pressed into holes smaller than the tabs and are very secure. To replace that type, I would install the tabs into the original holes and then use a sharp punch to close the holes tightly around the tabs.
Hi Don, good to see you back on TH-cam more importantly i'm sorry to here you had a mini stroke i hope you are recovering well and not chasing those skunks around ;o), excellent video and well explained as usual mate, people can learn a lot from your videos there as good as going to clock school.
D Perry, you're great. Y.
u are leaving a great part in the nostalgia with your family.
So sorry to hear of your health issues but obviously just like your repaired clocks you keep right on ticking! And that's a great thing!!
Thanks for your concern. I've had very painful problems with my hip and have to walk with a cane. The cane, in turn, has caused my hand to swell and cause a carpal tunnel problem. In October, I called to see an orthopedist, took until December 23 to get an appointment. They want to give me a cortisone injection, but that can't be done until February 3. Then who knows how long until a permanent solution will be. In the meantime, I'm being seen by a neurologist because of a minor stroke I had on December 21 and he wants neurological tests done on my lumbar spine and wrist. Says he thinks my hip problem could be a pinched nerve in my lower back, but those test couldn't be scheduled until late MAY! Meantime, I'm in really bad pain, can't walk worth a damn and can't use my hands efficiently, so working on clocks is really slow and cumbersome. Seems our medical system is going to hell in a handbasket, at least for Medicare patients. Hopefully, I'll find some solution soon. I need to get back to work on the bridge, pond and skunks come spring.
@@dperry428 that is total BS DP that you have to wait until May. What a really crappy way for the older folks that built our nation to be treated. It's an outrage.
Talking to the neurologist about it and he says that there are fewer doctors and they're getting overwhelmed. Turns out his cohort that I'm going to try to see is the cousin of a doctor that passed away a year or so ago that I knew and taught his son when the son was in 8th grade. He's a doctor now, too. Maybe that can help speed things up a bit, though I should just wait my turn. At least when I'm working on a clock, I'm sitting and don't have a lot of pain. Fingers on my right hand are swollen and makes it hard to use hand tools, though.
Mr perry another amazing video,its nice to see another video from you showing us your priceless knowledge,your doing an amazing job of it,thank you so much,if you keep em coming ill keep watching
First of all, I wish to thank you very much,had some time and I had cleaned my Cuckoo clock managed to arrange bottom chain winding wheel, I was lucky enough had lifted up with a watch screwdriver and straightened it to its original shape, thanks for your beautiful sharp and very understanding video many thanks for your time, This was done while I`m home " lockdown period COVID-19 "Many Thanks again wish everyone to stay safe
I have this exact clock. Everything is good except the bellows were ripped. Im just going to order some bellow toppers and bellow rods due to them being missing. Glad to see a video on this in case mine ever messes up lol.
I appreciate your work. Thanks for sharing. Sorry to hear of your stroke - I hope you continue to improve.
Hi Don. This is Jason. Thank you so much for repairing this clock for me. It really means allot to me as it was my Grandfathers. What an incredibly neat video showing the steps taken to repair and maintain this clock. I will certainly be more careful with it but now should a repair need to be made I can reference this video. I tried calling you the other day but your voicemail was full. I'll try to give you a ring tomorrow. Thank you again so much.
You're welcome.
Hi, I am so glad you are able to do a clock. I know the pain is bad ,but it looks like you are somewhat pain free when sitting and working.I hope you will be able to continue your great work. I always learn something new from your vids.
Sitting works for me. My right hand, though is swollen and restricted in motion and strength. Still have a couple more clocks to do. Working on a New Haven tambour mantel clock. Every pivot hole needs rebushed. It's going to take me a while to get that one done.
@@dperry428 I will be watching for your next vid. Take care.
You make a good Job. I'm repairing Cuckoo Clocks and other Clocks. At the Moment i repair a Vienna Wallclock and restore the Case. The Cable was broken. I will make a Video of it in the next time. Best reguards from Germany. Eike
This is great! Thanks for this. I bought one of these movements and I want to repair it but I was afraid to take it apart. But now I feel like I can do it since I have this as a reference.
Glad I could help!
That crack reinforcement method is pretty slick. I'll remember that one.
Here in my city, watchmakers buy them very expensive just to clean and lubricate them. I disassemble my cucco myself and put it back together.👉👉👉 now I break the gear pin that makes the cucco sing at half hour and full hour. I soldered the gear pin myself with tin and everything is fine. In this life we have to be determined 🙏🏻
Thank for responding to my comments,Sir,have a good day.
Wonderful videos.I started to work on a cuckoo 25 . Like to know what tools I needs & your magnifying glass.Thank you.
Tools you need depends on the depth of repairs you want to do. Most work, with the exception of bushing and replacing pivots, can be done with common household or workshop tools, such as pliers and screwdrivers. I use a an adjustable arm lamp with a central magnifier that I got at Office Max. One like this: www.amazon.com/Neatfi-Bifocals-Magnifier-Dimmable-Adjustable/dp/B07P6FWT47/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=pmvviwdvBGmjOppT6liEdw&hsa_cr_id=4928768120901&ref_=sb_s_sparkle For other suggestions, try reading some of these threads from the forum of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) mb.nawcc.org/search/22161238/?q=tools+for+clock+repair&o=relevance
Great to see your tutorials again! Thank you!!!!!
Great video. One of the best tutorials I have ever seen. Very informative and clear instructions. I am wondering what you use to clean the wheels and plates, especially to get rid of rust, etc..? Thanks.
After running the parts through an ultrasonic cleaner, I use this
www.lowes.com/pd/Gel-Gloss-16-fl-oz-Shower-Bathtub-Cleaner/50305771
Each part is scrubbed with a toothbrush and the polish. Each leaf of the rusty pinion gears is polished with a toothpick charged with the polish. Straight up elbow grease. After drying the parts are polished with a polishing cloth and hand-buffed with a soft, clean brush to remove any residue.
I appreciate your videos. I hope I'm as patient as you one of these days. I have a few cuckoos to repair...
Wish you were repairing this for me lol...Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You helped me identify and name the broken wheel along with showing me how to repair that wheel. You saved my wife's cuckoo click that was left to her from her grandmother.
I honestly was terrified to try and repair it until I found these videos.
Thank you Father Time 😊
Can I get that part # for the run side chain wheel from timesavers?
There are 3, depending on the pendulum length of the movement. timesavers.com/search.html?q=regula+chain+wheel&go=Search
@@dperry428 I'm sorry I don't even know how I'd do that? Thank you for getting back to me if I were to send you an e-mail with video or a photo? Would you be able to identify which one I need through a video or a photo via email? If so I can definitely get that right over to sorry to be a pain LOL
It's a Regula 25 movement. Is the pendulum 7 3/4" , 9 1/4" , or 11 1/4" ? Measure the pendulum length and pick the chain wheel that matches that length.
@dperry428 I will definitely measure that. Thank you so much for your time sir.
Fantastic video. Very interesting and lots of detail.
Thank you
I love your videos and how you teach repair... I would like to know where you buy tools or supplies. I need wire for mine and one I bought on ebay. Thank you
Timesavers will have most everything you need. timesavers.com/ Wire? timesavers.com/search.html?q=wire&go=Search
You help me so much.I have an old chucho clock and l like to repair it.Thanks.
miss your vids,, hope you are ok...you know a lot an its fun to learn from you ..
Hello new viewer and subscriber.
Your videos are amazing and thank you for taking the time to be so helpful. Can you recommend a good repair books for cuckoo clocks ? Thank s
I have never read any repair books on cuckoo clocks, so I can't recommend any. I suggest going to Amazon, search for cuckoo repair books and reading the reviews to find one or more that might be helpful.
dperry428 thanks. That makes your talent for this even more impressive.
Best of luck with getting healthy
From the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) forum. mb.nawcc.org/search/24940435/?q=recommend+cuckoo+repair+book&o=relevance Try reading some of these threads for suggestions.
Not really impressive; remember, the guys who wrote the books had to do the same thing.
These cuckoo clock videos remind me of when I was young my mom bought a cuckoo clock when the clock struck midnight and yhe cuckoo would cuckoo 12 times my dad made my mom lock the cuckoo door lol.
Another excellent video! Tell me, at 38:37 I hear a small clock strike. What clock is that? It sounds so neat, and I hear it a lot in your videos. Thanks.
It's a small, round 8-day Herschede movement that was in a case that originally contained an electric clock. I rebuilt the movement and am looking for an appropriate case to put it in. It strikes on 2 stacked bells and has a hairspring escapement. I keep it running on a shelf because I like the sound of the strike.
I just bought a cuendet swiss musical movement cuckoo clock-6732-36 in an auction. This a Edelweis Lara's Theme from Dr. Zhivago...It was mentioned as never been tried but when I put things up it does not work. The pendulum does not work.. Please advice
Diagnosing a non-functional clock over the internet is like asking what is wrong with a car that won't start. You might make sure the clock is level on the wall and the clock is in beat (the ticking is even). It may need cleaned and oiled. I just can't be of assistance from afar.
Great video as usual. Very informative. I worked on a similar movement and after I had cleaned and put it back together it works fine. time and strike are good but sometimes it cuckoos 12 on the 11th hour and on the 12th hour it cuckoos 12. Some times it skips an hour. like cuckoos 7 at 7 oclock then 9 on 8 oclock. I checked the rack and snail and they seemed lined up properly. Any thoughts? thanks
What you describe happens when the rack tail is not in the center of a snail step at the hour. Especially at 11 and 12 o'clock, where the steps are relatively tiny, there is a chance the rack tail and, thus, the rack will not fall the proper number of teeth. Also, check to see that the small detent that is lifted by the cams on the minute shaft is not sometimes missing the cam because it is very slightly out of alignment.
Thank you for the indepth share. I have a Hubert Herr cukoo of my grandpas that I figured I'd give it a go. Seems to be seized up. My dilemma is I only see the Zenith solution come in a gallon for the ultrasonic bath cleaning. Are there any other options out there for cleaning or is there a place where I can get a small batch. Much appreciated! Stay well.
The important thing is to remove the dirt, oil and grease. You don't need an expensive cleaning solution if you expend some elbow grease. Some Dawn dishwashing soap in hot water, scrub with toothbrush, rinse well in hot water, hand dry, rinse in 95% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and blow dry with compressed air or a hair dryer. The alcohol will remove water from between assembled parts such as chain wheels. Shiny brass parts are not necessary for proper function, but a bit of household ammonia added to the soapy solution will clean the brass. Fine (0000) steel wool will remove rust from steel parts. Stay away from solvents, especially with clocks that have plastic parts. Peg out the pivot holes with toothpicks.
Great and helpful video thanks 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video. How do you get rid of rust on clock wheels? Do you use sandpaper? Thanks.
Rust is usually limited to arbors and pinion gears. I scrub them with a toothbrush charged with a mildly abrasive acrylic tub and shower polish. Then, to get any rust out of a cut pinion, I use toothpicks and the same polish to get between each leaf of the pinion. Absolutely no sandpaper -- much too coarse. If brass gears are stained, I use the same polish and toothbrush treatment. If stains are deep, I use 0000 steel wool.
@@dperry428 Perfect! Thank you very much. What do you think of Evaporust?
@@khossossykhossossy7955 Somehow, I missed this question. I don't know what Evaporust is.
Thank you for all the great videos! I never would have attempted restoring my childhood cuckoo clock without watching them. I have disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the movement but have one remaining issue that I am hoping you can help me resolve. Everything seems to work fine except my clock does not gong or cuckoo on the half hour. I never thought to test the half hour gong/cuckoo before I reinstalling the movement. Looking through the circular side panel, I can see that the warning wheel pin is released on the half hour and the wheels start to spin but the gong & cuckoo are not activated. Any ideas? Thank you in advance for any advice you can share.
It is really difficult to diagnose a problem without examining the movement, but here's a guess. On the center shaft, as you likely know, there are two lifting cams, one for the hour and a shorter one for the half-hour. It seems that something is interfering with the levers being lifted sufficiently or the lever that interfaces with the rack is hanging up and not allowing the lever that is holding the warning pin on the warning wheel to be released. All I can suggest is that you remove the movement, put it on a test stand and carefully examine the functioning of all the part on the front of the movement. I know it a PITA, but there have been time when a problem has caused me to remove a movement half-a-dozen or more times until I finally found the problem.
@@dperry428 Thanks for your quick reply. I appreciate your help! I plan to investigate the problem with my clock as soon as I have a few free hours. Thanks again.
I pray this finds you in great health and enjoyed your videos! I have a Black Forest coo coo clock that I took apart, cleaned, reassembled, and oiled with 40 weight Synthetic oil - just on the pivots. Everything works great, but the clock has started to slowdown, even after adjusting the pendulum height the clock remains slow by three minutes. Any suggestions?
Make sure the hands are tight. Neither hand is rubbing either on the dial or with each other. Make sure the clock is level and plumb so that the ticking is even. Is the pendulum leader swinging freely in the slot in the case and not rubbing on the edges? Changes in temperature and humidity can also affect the timekeeping. Hanging it in a kitchen will subject it to such changes. Or, hanging it near a heating or cooling vent will affect the pendulum length. The pendulum rod is wood, which can absorb moisture or dry out, changing both its weight and length. The bob itself is also wood, which can expand and contract. The period of a pendulum is determined by the length from the center of mass. Changing the center of mass by adding or losing weight or adding or losing length will change its center of mass. With its open pendulum, it's important that the clock not be hanging in a place where it is subjected to breezes, such as near a door that is opened and closed. The more constant the environmental conditions (temperature and humidity), the more likely to have a more accurate clock. A cuckoo clock, though, is not a precision timepiece. Don't expect it to keep time with the precision of a quartz movement. Your description is a bit confusing. A clock can only "remain slow by three minutes" if you don't move the hands forward to the correct time. In how long a period does it lose, say, 3 minutes? Per hour? Per day? If it's 3 minutes per week, that's pretty good for a cuckoo clock. Moving the pendulum bob higher on the wooden stick will make it run faster. I don't know the conditions where you've placed the clock, but I'm reminded of my father-in-law, who had hung a cuckoo on the wall behind the couch and was having fits trying to get it adjusted for time until he came upon his pet cat sitting on the back of the couch, pawing at the moving pendulum. When the cat got bored, he'd swat at the pendulum -- not a condition for good timekeeping.
PS This is assuming, of course, that the mechanics of the clock are sound. No bent pivots or gear teeth, pallets not unduly worn, etc.
@@dperry428 I have the clock in a low traffic area; however, to maintain a constant ticking from the pendulum, the clock has to be tilted a few degrees. Nothing is bent or warped that I noticed. Is that tilting part of my problem?
You'll need to bend the crutch (the wire from the anchor that the pendulum leader goes through) left or right until the clock ticks evenly when the clock is plumb and level. That's difficult to do when the clock is not on a test stand where you can see the clock running. When the clock has to be tilted to run, there is the possibility that the pendulum leader ends up touching or rubbing on something. The clock must have an even tick when it is level. That's about all I can advise.
@@dperry428 Thank you sir.
Hi: I have a regula cuckoo clock movement that I recently restored. I tested it for three days and it works great yet when I install it in the clock it strikes 13 times regularly. There are no obstructions when installed. I believe that the rack is somehow the issue. Can you provide some professional advise? Really appreciate your videos . Merry Christmas.
First, I'm not a professional; just a hobbyist. Without examining it, I can't be very definitive, but I'd look for something keeping the rack from being lifted with each cuckoo. Sounds like the rack is moving freely out of the case, and possibly rubbing or touching the inside of the case when installed. Look at the post on which the rack is mounted. Is it even the slightest bit loose on the plate? That could explain the problem. How much play is in the rack on the post? If it wobbles a lot, that could be a problem. Rack should not deviate from its intended position.
@ Thank you so much. I will examine rack/snail assembly.
Especially pay attention to the post on which the rack pivots. It should not move at all.
Great video. I always learn new things from you. I cleaned a similar movement the other day and it works fine but the door opens and the bird comes out when the clock goes to warning and stays open until it finishes cuckooing then it closes. The door doesn't close fully though. any thoughts?
The second wheel has two tabs on the arbor that push the door open. They need to be repositioned so the do not start pushing on the door too soon. That's also the wheel that has the gathering pallet attached to the outside front of the movement. It will also have to be repositioned, as well as the pin on the third wheel. It's a matter of being aware of all those parts when reassembling the movement.
@@dperry428 Thank you very much. You are right. I removed the gathering pallet but i forgot to take a photo of the original picture of the tabs related to the gathering pallet when it was resting. The warning wheel's pin was facing up and the gathering pallet was in the resting position. Do you think the tabs should be vertical or horizontal when the gathering pallet is in resting position?
Close to vertical.
@@dperry428 Awesome. thank you very much. I have to say that you are by far the best clock repair teacher I have ever seen. You are very talented and you have the ability of explaining things easily. Thanks a lot and stay safe.
Thank you. I had lots of practice teaching. I was a science teacher for 34 years. I'm glad you understand my sometimes long ramblings.
I hope you’re doing better love your vids
Thanks. It's a battle.
I am working on an older Regula 1 day movement. No numbers identifying the movement, just the Regula name, pat. number and made in Germany. It seems similar in layout to the 25 but the Star wheel is located within the plates attached to the Strike chain gear. I am having difficulty removing the gathering pallet. It is on very tight. I am afraid of breaking it since it seems to be attached to a wheel arbor. Would a gear puller be the thing to try? Thanks for your help.
I'm not familiar with that movement with the star wheel between the plates. A gear puller would work if the pin is small enough to push on the arbor. Otherwise, wait until you take the plates apart, then support the front plate around the arbor that has the gathering pallet on it and drive the arbor end off the gathering pallet with a small punch. When you reassemble, put it back on with a hollow punch.
@@dperry428 Thanks, I will try that. I am ready to separate the plates and clean. Thanks for your advice! I have been studying your videos to take it apart correctly.
Hi, where did you get the pliers for spreading those clips and what are they called? I enjoy watching your videos. David
www.amazon.com/Knipex-4621A01-External-Angled-Retaining/dp/B001E5ZB7M/ref=sr_1_1?crid=IJEO1PV4G2IG&keywords=knipex+circlip+4621A01&qid=1676219777&sprefix=knipex+circlip+4621a01%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-1
Thanks, I ordered one today
What releases the lever that locks the bird out at 38:10
The lever that catches the teeth of the rack has an extension further up on it that, when the lever drops under the end of the rack, pushes down on the end of the lever that has the hook that holds the door open causing the hook to lift and release the bird. Watch here: th-cam.com/video/lhR6SHQdnjk/w-d-xo.html
Thank you i just went through one that belonged to my grandmother was sent home from a cousin who was ststioned in germany in the 60s got it back together music playes every thong good except bird would not retract figured out one of those lock washers came loose and arm was riding out and binding on gathering palet love your videos could not have done it with out them !
Glad they were helpful.
Great video very well detailed. I fix my cuckoo clock regular 25 because of this video. Thank You dperry428. But, my cuckoo clock has a music box with dancing boy and girl. The arm that triggers the music how do I set this arm so it triggers the music box lever? dperry428 do you a video installing the arm to trigger the music box on Regular 25? What hour it should be best to set it 1, 2, 3, 12, etc, and is the metal arm put on 5 minutes before the chosen hour strike? Regular 25 has the engraved stamped of 87, I assumed this means 1987 clockworks, hunter's clock with music on the half-hour and hour. The arm that strikes the lever of the music looks like a backward 7 with an extra thin wire that stops the fly on the music unit.
Keep in mind that Regula makes the movements and clock makers buy their movements from Regula. The design of how a music box is actuated varies considerably from clock to clock. Without seeing the way yours works, I can't be of much help. Here is a video of one I repaired and I explain how this one works. th-cam.com/video/h_3lSK0BDAQ/w-d-xo.html Yes, the 87 is probably the year of manufacture.
@@dperry428 thank You
Hello DP, Greg here. I hope this finds you well ! I want to thank you for such an informative video!!! I'm hoping I can pick your brains for a minute. The collar that is above the star gear on my clock does not have a screw. Is that pressed on, or screwed on? How do I remove it? Looking forward to hearing from you, sending prayers for smooth surgeries and a speedy recovery!
Thank You, Greg
That star wheel is pressed on in later movements. It was done as a cost saving in manufacturing. Simply press it on and one saves several steps. No hole to drill and tap, and eliminate one screw. Saves them money, makes repair another nightmare. In most cases, I've been able to remove it using a crow's foot tool. In other cases, it can be removed by holding the arbor between the plates with a long-nosed vise grip plier and then grasping the brass collar with another plier and twisting it off. It may also be helpful to heat the collar with a small butane torch to expand it slightly and then pull it off. The space between the wheel and the plate is very narrow and you have to be careful to not bend the wheel. When I finally get it off, I drill and tap a hole in the side of the collar to fit a small screw. I also broach out the hole so it will slip onto the arbor. This makes the movement like those of old. The next repair person can then remove it easily. It also makes it easy to adjust the wheel after reassembling the movement. If all fails and you destroy the wheel, buy a new one from Timesavers. timesavers.com/i-8950779-actuating-cuckoo-wheel.html
Holy moly !!! That was a incredibly quick response!!!! I’ll take your advice and git-r-done! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge, I’ll let you know how it goes.
If you ever need an Apprentice, give me a holler!!!😉
Why did you switch from the yellow oiler to a red one. I sure appreciate your showing all your work not skipping steps in filming.
The oilers come as a set of three, one red, one yellow, one blue. They vary in size of the tip. The larger tip picks up more oil. I use the oiler that works best on the movement pivot holes or I use the one that I happen to have out. Most times, it doesn't matter which one I use. If I've used one of them with another substance, such as Loctite, I won't use it for oiling until I can clean it so, I'll use the other one.
How can I fix the pendulum that is not moving? I believe that one of the 2 sets of chain is not working properly. Thanks
I can't answer that question. The clock may simply not be level or out of beat, it may be dirty and needing cleaned and oiled, it may have worn parts and be in need of repair.
Dear Mr. Perry, you mentioned something in this video that might help me understand why my clock isn't making any noise at half hour and it also is not releasing the catch on the music wheel so that the music starts. Since these parts are close to each other it might be the same problem causing both. The thing you mentioned is that arm with a hole in it that sticks from the side was the half hour trigger. Maybe something is wrong with mine that causes it to not make a sound at half hour and to not start the music at the normal time. The cookoo and gong works perfectly when it is exactly at the hour. For you this is probably something so easy but I can't tell what is wrong. Thank you! Oh when you are bored you might like some of our videos too. We found your channel today and it's the best one for understanding the clocks.
Oh, also I can hear the clock try to do something on the half hour and I can hear it trying to do something to release the music also. If I move the little arm out of the way after I hear this noise, then the music starts correctly when it is supposed to, but if I don't do that the music never starts.
Some cuckoo clocks with music are designed to play music on both the hour and half-hour and some are designed to play music only on the hour. Trying to adjust the music release mechanism on the half-hour when it is not designed to do so may result in jamming on the half-hour. Since there are numerous designs for music box release, I can't provide any further guesses as to what the problem might be with your particular clock. Try setting it to play music just on the hour and see how it works for you. The sound you hear on the half-hour is a further clue that it is jamming because it is set to do something it was not designed to do.
Sir, what solution did you use to clean? Sorry if this was already covered. And did you drop the rack and snail metal items in the same solution? Again, thank you!
Yes I did www.esslinger.com/formula-67-zenith-watch-and-clock-cleaning-solution-1-gallon/
Hello again. I just got a few movements to work on for practice. They all seem to be in decent shape. I’ve cleaned in ammonia but not experienced enough to fully disassemble yet.,
One problem I have is that it counts the hour correctly yet in next hour it will go back one hour and count one less. Any ideas why?
Same movement as the one you are working on in this video.,
Many thanks
Look at the front of the movement and the interaction of the rack and snail. At the hour, the rack tail, the part that drops onto the snail, should drop onto the middle of a step on the snail. If it is too far back on a step, it may not drop onto the next step the next hour but fall onto the forward edge of the same step as the hour previous. If that is not the problem, the check for the rack not falling freely or the gathering pallet pin not allowing the rack to drop completely each time.
dperry428 Thanks I’ll take a look. Stay safe
dperry428 so I think it’s fixed. The tab that drops onto the snail from the rack looked like it was too far forward. I just bent it back and it seems to have fixed it.
Thank you
Rather than bending the tab, it is better to remove the "e" clip and washer from on top of the intermediate wheel so that the snail can be pulled forward to disengage the teeth and move it one or more teeth until the rack tail falls onto the center of the step on the snail. Then, put the washer and "e" clip back on.
dperry428 just figured that out now, and your comment reassures me. It Takes a lot of looking and thinking but it’s very obvious in the end. Tiny adjustments. It falls as you said earlier just too far forward. 👍🏻
My coocoo clock doesn't run with the pendulum. Without it, it runs find except for keeping fast time.
What could be the problem.?
It is likely in beat without the pendulum, but is out of beat with the pendulum. Listen to the tick. Is it even ? If not, you'll have to bend the pendulum leader a bit to bring the ticking in an even beat. Check out this video th-cam.com/video/p7H2dgkbMU4/w-d-xo.html
I too have a regula #25 that has the detents bent on the time side chain wheel. mine is like the one you show except the plastic wheel is pushed on close to the chain gear. time savers does not have a wheel in the configuration that I have, and I have been all over the networks with no success, any suggestions?
Like this one? timesavers.com/i-24049595-ratcheting-chain-wheel-35-0mm-x-66-teeth-x-27-5mm-arbor.html
@@dperry428 No, on mine the brass gear then the chain gear then the plastic gear all touching . Have you ever taken this gear apart to replace just the detent inside?
I'd sure like to see a picture of the one you have. I can't imagine the plastic gear being any closer than some of those available from timesavers. No, I don't take them apart, but you can try. The replacement detents are available. While you're at it, make sure you check for cracks in the plastic gear.
@@dperry428 I don't see a way to send a picture in this mail system.
Leave an email in a comment; I'll contact you and delete the comment without anyone else seeing it.
Hope you feeling better sir
Thank you.
Adding to my previous comment: the clock is clean inside. No dust .
I have a Black Forest Cookoo clock that my best friend brought from Germany to me in 1987. It has a metal lever on the right side of clock (if you are looking at the face of clock. What is the purpose of this lever.
Without seeing it, I'm guessing it's a nighttime shutoff. Some people don't like the cuckoo making racket at night, so some cuckoos have a shutoff that can stop the cuckoo strike at will. The clock continues to run, but doesn't cuckoo the hours until the lever is shut off again.
I got a Question about a Schneider Cuckoo clock I bought. It is an 8-Day Clock with 3 wooden like weights. It has the Cuckoo bird with the Dancing Music Box figurines it is around 26” tall. So here is the Trouble there is a Battery holder for 1 D Cell Battery that has an Electric Motor that the battery runs. It don’t Work so what kind of Cuckoo clock do I have? It has to go in for Servicing.
I think it was Manufactured in Germany around 2000?
Anyone know what kind of clock I have?
Is the movement a mechanical movement that requires having weights pulled up? If so, the battery might be used to run lights and/or animations. You indicate it is an 8-Day Clock, but also indicate it has "3 wooden like weights". If it is truly an 8 day clock, then it would have a mechanical movement, but if it has weights that look like wood, it is a battery operated clock and the weights are just decorative. Not enough information to know, except that I have never seen an Anton Schneider cuckoo that was battery driven.
So when you were setting the hour hand how do you know where you are setting it? I new to this.
Turn the minute hand until it cuckoos the hour. Set the hour hand at that hour.
I guess I still don’t understand how you did that in the video.
Well maybe I do see. I see that lever is resting on the first slot of the snail?
I thought you meant on the face of the the clock. You mean how do I set the snail. If you look at the center shaft, it has two little cams on it. One is slightly longer than the other. The shorter one lift the strike mechanism on the half-hour and the longer one sets the strike mechanism on the hour. I turn the shaft until the longer lever is pointing up. Then, put on the rack and snail and set them so that the rack tail falls on the middle of one of the steps of the snail. The highest step is 1 o'clock and the lowest step is 12.
What was the name of the pliers you used to remove the clips? Brand and size? Thank you!!!!
Knipex 46 21 A01 Circlip Pliers
@@dperry428 thank you sir!!!
HI How are you doing? I hope all is well and you can get back to work repairing clocks very soon. I miss your videos.
Thank you for asking. I had an injection in my hip three weeks ago and it was like a miracle. The next day, I was able to walk without pain. Without having to use the cane, the swelling in my hand has gone away and I'm feeling almost normal. I'm hoping this will be long-lasting. I'm working on a New Haven tambour mantel clock and will have another video up in the next few days. Two more clocks after that and I'm caught up with repairs.
@@dperry428 Wonderful! I will watch for your next video.
Hello again. Hope all is well.
When bushing is it important that they end up flush on the on the outside? Or is it just a matter of aesthetics. Bought an anvil today.
Of course, the bushings need to be flush with the inside. As to the outside of the plate, what's important is that the pivot extend all the way through the hole in the bushing. Making the bushing flush to the outside is aesthetic as well as good practice in making the repaired plate as near original in appearance as possible. If the bushing is high enough that the pivot does not extend entirely through the hole, the oil sink (chamfer) should be made deeper until the pivot clears the hole margin. When that is done, the edge of the bushing is usually nothing more than a thin edge extending beyond the plate and it is easy to remove that and the bushing will likely be very close to flush. A pivot that does not extend beyond the edge of the bushing hole will cause an unusual wear pattern within the hole that will result, eventually, in loss of end shake and excessive friction in the wheel train.
@@dperry428 thank you for that.
@@dperry428 follow up on that question. Would a slight wobble in a wheel be a sign of a bad bushing job ?
More likely a bent arbor or bent pivot.
@@dperry428 would a part like that need replacing? It’s the second wheel. I know it’s difficult for you to make a full judgment not seeing it. Thanks
At the 15 minute mark, you use a pair of pliers. Can you tell me what kind of pliers they are and where I can buy them?
Certainly! www.amazon.com/Knipex-4621A01-External-Angled-Retaining/dp/B001E5ZB7M/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=knipex+4621a01&qid=1627689434&s=hi&sr=1-1
@@dperry428 dave, thank you for getting back to me so fast. I have a question about a regula movement that I have. Perhaps I can send you a video of what is happening to it so that you could get a better look at it and then give me your advice.
dperry428 for Don Perry. Why not just upload the video to your channel and we can discuss it there? Then you can always delete the video and comments.
@@dperry428 I'll do it! Thank you.
@@dperry428 th-cam.com/video/nifogdc7dhI/w-d-xo.html Don please take a look at this to see if we can figure out how to fix the movement.
great video thank you
If you are still doing click repair, I have 2 cuckoo clocks that are in need of repair. I read somewhere that you only work on them during the colder months. Please let me know. Thank you so much.
Until this virus thing is settled, I don't want packages coming to my home. God knows who handles them in transit. I'm 77 and my wife s 76 and we are paranoid.
For the Regula 25 how many tic tocks per minute? I'm guessing 140 or 70 complete cycles of the pendulum. Does anybody know?
Depends on the pendulum length and tooth count of the movement. mb.nawcc.org/threads/regula-cuckoo-bph.8/
@@dperry428 Wow thanks for the speedy reply and the link! Just Subscribed!
The rear clips are snap rings.
No, they are g-type compression rings.
Мені теж треба зробити такий механізм годинника, дякую вам за по шагову інструкцію, дуже цікаво
I know you are great with cuckoos. I love your step by step explanations. I always learn something. I have a three train musical movement cuckoo. Would you consider doing a complete disassembly , cleaning and reassembly video? This movement is very complicated for me so I would love to see how it is put back together with your excellent comments.This is a movement only. Let me know if you would like to do it and I can send it to you. Thanks Bob
I would love to accommodate you, but my current health simply will not allow it. I have three clocks to do, each of which is taking more and more effort as I lose manual dexterity. Time intervals between available doctor appointments are keeping me in physical limbo. The clocks I have to finish are all from local people and easily returned. Quite frankly, should my condition continue to deteriorate, I don't want to leave a mess to clean up. If things improve significantly, we can talk again if you haven't found someone to help you.
@@dperry428 Thanks for your rely. I am so sorry about your health situation.I hope you never get to the point where you can not do clocks Take care
Está muy bien esplicado
Very nice Sir
did you have a website or email i can contact to you sir. for repairing
I'm not taking any clocks for repair at this time. When I am able to again, I ask people to just leave their email in a comment and I'll contact them. I hold comments for review before publishing so I can then just delete the comment. I'm probably facing hip replacement surgeries in the near future and I don't want to have clocks to repair when I don't know if I can get to them.
I have a cuckoo mystery.... the clock ticks (works) but the hands don’t move.... ???
Every clock needs a clutch mechanism of some sort to allow the hands to be moved to set the time. If all the gearing were set solid, the only way to set the time would be to wait for the time on the clock to be the right time and then start the clock. The clutch mechanism allows the gears that make the hands move to slip when moving the hands manually. On some clocks, the intermediate wheel between hour and minute has a tension washer that allows the gear to slip when needed. On others, there is a coiled spring on the center arbor that presses against the gear and allows it to slip. On another, the minute shaft has two notches cut into the tube that allow it to form a compression fit that can also be slipped. I don't know what the mechanism is on your clock, but likely what is happening is that there is not enough tension in the system to make the gears move -- they are slipping too easily. It may also be because the hands are not tight enough due to a missing hand nut. Another possibility is where the gear that drives the hands is made of plastic and the plastic gear has cracked and is too loose on the arbor to drive the hands -- like this: th-cam.com/video/HVf9OdcCW-E/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
GREAT!
Mine looks like a Hermle with Westminster chimes
This is the best video I have: th-cam.com/video/MRP41Qh9K4w/w-d-xo.html
It has 3 weights 2 of the weights work & the 1 weight don’t go down. It is a Hunters Cuckoo clock. I’m waiting for it. The Person said the Battery part don’t work. She called it Bird Whistle Pump Unit. It is a Mechanical Cuckoo Clock. The Battery Case is White Colored with a Black Wire & a Blue Wire on the other end. Of the single D Cell Battery holder. It’s 2 weights go down but the 3 rd one does not move. Above the Music Box is that Electric Motor & I can see some White Gears from the Picture. It will need to be Serviced can you do it? I live in Minnesota & no one here. You cannot shut the Couckoo off at night I can’t see that black lever on the Left Side of box.
Wait until you get it, take some pictures and post them as a video on your YT channel..
Repairing cuckoo clocks... You need some basic mechanical clock knowledge, small tools and, above all, a LOT of patience