Such great points. I have gone DEEP down this rabbit hole of ideal strings when I first started to play bass after being a guitarist primarily for 15 years. Especially for a 5 string set up one whole step down ADGCF. I did the whole balanced tension set from Kalium with a CRAZY big 5th. Something like 158 (WTF!?). I had the bass professionally set up with these and long story short, it was muddy and just a PITA to play anything technical and had to have a bizarre EQ profile to try and cut through. It also took forever to receive those strings, which is a whole other story. I ended up going to the hex core DDT 45-125 set on my 35" scale schecter model T and couldn't be happier. I just had to adjust my technique and set up and this thing sounds way better than the Spector I had set up with the bridge cables for strings. What got me to switch was reading that Rex Brown did not use crazy heavy strings on any of the Pantera recordings. 45-125 Dean Markley on his euro 5LX tuned to ADGCF @425Hz or so. Too much time on Talkbass can lead you astray!
It's scary all the string brands I've tried. 😱 The best I've tried in my ears have been Ken Smith Rockmasters strings. They have certain overtones that I haven't gotten from other strings. But there are so many options out there. It's insane.
@@RodneyMcG Talkbass messed me up big time. Chasing a great metal tone in drop A, I ended up using a massive .165 for A0 and a 45-105 set for EAD (leaving the 45 off as it's a 4 string) based on advice from there. It was muddy and dark at the same time. That, on a 32 inch ancient bass that doesn't have a trussrod or any neck reinforcement. It ended up in a bent neck with an S curve. I fixed it myself, it was a lot of work. Then eventually I just put a .130 with the 45 set on it. In B standard or even drop A it was fine, but still dangerous to the weak neck. Tuned it all the way down to F#BEA. Baritone guitar level of tensions. Refined my bad technique to fretting light, picking light and close to the bridge, and raised the bridge. It's brilliant! Update: Came back to report, lowering the action and playing close to the neck with my fingers allows me to slap the strings against the fretboard and get a slap-like clank, even more brilliant! And there is a lot of sound to sculpt with an EQ (or leave as is) depending on what I fancy in the moment. Update: .120, .085, .065, .045 on 32 inch scale, drop A. Works! I need to be careful with it, but works!
Hey man I'm dealing with that now, I 'm using a .145 A string to keep the tension and reduce flap but now it's just too boomy sounding and the other strings sounds like tin. YOu think hexcore strings would help? How does that work, are they just naturally less flappy at lower gauge? What gauge would you recommend for AEAD tuning on a 4 string?
@@frankie8444In all honesty, though I guess hexcore might help you, best if you experience it yoitself. What kind of works for me might not work for you.
I recently made the mistake of putting the exact same strings on all 3 of my basses, almost at once. Just because I have used Roto 66 for years I love them - when I took the stock strings off my AM P-bass and put the Rotosound on I hated the sound I was getting and the feel of the bass changed. Now, I have changed it from 45-105 Roto to 45-100 Fender 7250's, and it made a huge difference both brand and gauge (and material) and brought the bass back to life again, to my ears. One size definitely does not fit all and it's ok to try something different until you get the sound your looking for.
I'm not a bass player, but I do play bass and have several at hand. I do feel and hear differences with various types of strings and gages on my basses, they don't all FEEL the same if I do use the same gage/type. This is the kind of advice I prefer, a detailed explanation with real-life facts... Perfect!!!
Great timing with this episode. I've been playing 105's since 1991 (D'Addario XL) - feels & sounds good to me. A few years ago I tried the newer D'Addario NYXL 105's which I liked even better and have stuck with it. But last month for my birthday, my brother got me the NYXL's but in a 100 set and my GF got me NYXL's in the 110 set. So now I have two different gauges I've never tried. I wasn't loving the 110's and after a few weeks cut them off. Then I was thinking the worst for the 100 set. I was unable to exchange them and even if I could I didn't want to go through that hassle. So I restrung my bass with the 100 set and was amazed. The strings felt great on both my hands (typically use my fingers vs. a pick) and they sounded great. I feel everything is easier to play & don't get tired out as easy. The only gripe I had is when the other day I realized I've never tuned my E down to D. That's where I noticed a drop off in tone and would rather have the 105 E string. But for standard turning the 45-100 set was great & nothing what I ever expected. It fit my style/playing perfectly.
You might make people frustrated, but you're actually helping them figure it out. Nothing changes over night. Absolutely right. I have watched your videos before, but subscribed within the first 2 minutes of watching this video.
This is kinda off topic. I am 53 years old. I’ve been playing for quite a while. I recently discovered I really like a high string height compared to what I have been used to all these years. I bought a 5 string Warwick and it came to me with high string height. I told myself I have to fix this but i was really enjoying something about it. I can really dig in. Now the lower action on my other basses feels not right at all.
I play in A standard with .045-.125 strings and it works perfectly for what sound I want. I’ve found musicians are like people in every other hobby or profession. It’s always the “this is the way I do it and every other way is wrong.”
I obtsined a Spector det up with heavey thick 4 strings from a metal band..I put on Thomastics lite gauge...love the feel sound and action now..even better than all my hi end basses
I started on light gauge strings . I wanted lower action even with the neck relief sorted and frets leveled I was not feeling it, at all. I ended up with 50-110 roto77 jazz flats . Few adjustments bingo sound was warm , definition , clarity , fantastic to my ear . Tension felt great nice low action . No digging in required . I can not see me changing anytime soon.Your explanation obviously applies to guitar as well . So simply put a real light bulb moment seems obvious after it's been framed . This is why Metal Bass is so good to be part of . I use isoprop to clean the strings . Keeps them sounding fresh for a long time it totally evaporates. Part of my secret sauce . Works for me
@@RodneyMcG Thanks for the pointers on the 1, 2 and 3 finger technique tutorials you've already done more to work through much appreciated 👍 excellent content and channel
Fantastic video and excellent points all around. My current bass set up is a 32" scale 5st bass with 40-109 strings on it. That's right; the 109 is my low B and sounds great.
It doesn't need to be this complex. Just buy a heavy set and a lite set with the hex core, and the same with round core. To find out what gage and tension you enjoy. For tone go with nickel if you want a more mellow sound and steel if you want a brighter in your face sound.
I 'm a musician in my late 60's and retired nurse with arthritis. I have had to go to LB low tension flats., the E being at 100 gauge , though I don't tune lower than a half step, but love the tone.
This video took the blinders off my eyes. Now I can keep my 5 string bass in A-standard; commit to it, and continue writing the music that I wanted to write in the first place. This video helped me A LOT!
+1 to “it depends” being the only correct answer to pretty much any question related to string selection. I like the same sound/feel/action and don’t even use the same strings to accomplish that in my limited (2x 4str, 1x 5str) setup.
Great advice there, especially the picking hand, amazing how many times I've thought my tone isn't coming thru and then I play a little lighter and boom. Video came up as a suggestion. Subbed straight away.
Awesome vid and explanation! Been waiting for something like this a long time. Gonna show the vid to all "meeeeehhh you need at least a .160 String to go on A without sacrificing on the sound" guys i know :D I´m playing ADGCF on a 34" scale just the way i like it with .045 to .130
I'm glad my dad helped me figure out what I like very early on. My choice in strings hasn't evolved much over the years except that I recently tried a set of Ernie Ball Beefy Slinky strings so I can keep my bass in B Standard tuning and simulate having a 5 string until I can afford the 5 string I've been eyeballing.
I’m not a metal player, but I love your videos, and I couldn’t agree more on so many points in this one. Having just recently come to a place in my journey where I’m really happy with my technique and sound, I wanted to see how closely my information on strings and setup matched yours and I was nodding all along! I learned a lot too! 🤘🏻
Always such a treasure to watch. Perfect timing on the video friend! 😜 Thank you, for always coming in clutch and telling it like it is. Nothing less than the best information, entertainment, and place to come learn and most of all listen. There is a lot to learn here folks and I sincerely appreciate this man and his time. 🤘
Randomly stumbled across this video as I was looking for various Bass String reviews. I just had a pro set up and a new set of GHS Balanced Nickels put on a short scale. The GHS BS get a lot of love from talkbass short scale players as being designed for short scales and resolving tension issues on the E string. I thought I would give them a try after I wore out the D'addario XL Nickel Wound that came stock (and that I liked). The GHS BN are not bright enough for my taste and don't cut through the mix the way I was hoping. I was searching for the next set of strings and then your video convinced me to leave the GHS BN on, at least 3 months, really get to know them and play with my eq settings and see what happens. Thanks for talking me off the edge.
@@RodneyMcG Well it certainly did. I looked at my amp (Rumble 500) and pressed the button labeled "Bright". And boom, fixed my strings right up. You were right, those knobs and buttons on my amp actually do things.
Hey, I have no issues experimenting with my bass. I've been a Science Nerd since I was a kid so running trial-and-error experiments is a joy for me. The only problem holding me back is Money.
I played 45-130s on my Yamaha TRB5P for over 20 years - not a metal guy- as I worried about low B flapping. I recently found i was getting a lot of fret noise- not 4 me - and I put 40's on. WOW less noise, just as much tension and no tension loss on B as I finally found perfect set up. I also can schlapp it now which i got bad results from before. For THIS bass d'addario EXL220-5 is right for mr with its jumbo frets, can't say for others.
Great advice as always Rodney. There are no easy answers on this issue because there's so many variables. It is an experimentation and adjustment of one's personal journey of said variables. I saw your comment here about talkbass. I had to smile because we've all been/are guilty of seeking easy answers. Some things yes, some things no. Keep up the fine work sir.
Accomadation, oh man you are correct! I changed to a new set of strings totally different, and over time of playing I had heard different tones. I needed to tweek the apm and other parameters. Adjusted action a bit and string tension. Playing with a Floyde Rose Tremolo is tedious turning and maintaining. I may play again soon and think the sound is out of wack again. The new set of strings are 3 months old now. They are deffinently broken in by now. I am buying a Bas guitar first in many years. As a lead guitarist for many years, learning the highly importance of rhythm and timing for both drums and bass, will not be difficult still will be challenging knowing about key pointers to remember. I am here to get others ideas for which string gauge I should look at for a mid to heavy playing style.
Thanks so much for this video! I bought my dream bass recently (pick player / for progressive metal, punk, etc) - a 5-String Warwick Teambuilt Pro Series Thumb BO (made in Germany) and absolutely love it, but have been incredibly bummed out about the low B string. I'm running the recommended 135-45 set (hex core, stainless) and it sounds so-so tuned to B, but when I drop it to A the string just goes completely dead. It's super dark, limp, has almost no sustain, and is riddled with fret clank all up and down the board (which I like a little of, but not this much). Thought I made a mistake and started shopping for a Dingwall until I saw this video. Grabbed a couple singles - 120/125/130 and I'm going to try them out. The other strings are incredible on this Thumb and if I can get that same kind of grind and clarity on the low B, I'll keep this for the rest of my life. Wish me luck!
Back in the day, I had a Warwick Pro 5 string aswell, same issue. I found it needed a tapered 5th string at the ball end. Used to have to buy a 4 string set and then a separate tapered 5th string.
I agree with experiment with strings , you kind of have to find what the bass likes . My RIC like the DR pure blues , my Boxer bass likes Rotosounds , my P bass is set with Black Tape wounds , my Sandberg basses like EB cobalt .my 5 string Jazz likes Sunbeams and sire V7 5st. Ive got Ernie ball cobalt flats . But tomorrow I could find something I like better .😊
Also the scale of bass is one. For me getting little bot thicker strings for 34" compared to 35", is the way to go. But that's me and my style of playing.
I only run a 130 B string, which is hardly at the extreme end. But I don't know why it never occurred to me that the reason my B sounds "hollow" to me is that it's mostly fundamental with no mids to warm it up. I had it in my head that it was the exact opposite, the B was missing because the string wasn't heavy enough or the scale length was inadequate. I was thinking I was getting nothing but weaker harmonics, no fundamental. Now I see I made an oopsie. I'm about to restring with another 130 set. But my first plan is to experiment with tuning down to see if that warms up the big string. Of course, having a good set of strings instead of the generic garbage that came on my $100 budget bass will make a difference for sure.
Great video. Some people tend to have established expectations and won't waiver outside of those as if they're absolute. It's interesting when you make people listen and give their opinion on the sound before you tell them the setup; often they're surprised. I like a .135 elixir nickel on my Ibanez SR for the B- that's just my preference for feel. I can always change the sound with the EQ if I need to. Thanks
I agree with you man. We live in a world of 20 second 'shorts' and need results now. Our attention span is SHIT. The past few years I've been (with what very little free time I have ) working on my guitars in order to figure out my own person sound/setup formula. I would never take what I've learned back. You have to take the time....and fail a million times...but eventually win. Because of the frustration I've gone through with my guitars...I've found my formula and could not be happier. It is worth it and takes time.
I've been Playing for nearly 40 years, metal, rock, pop, funk, disco. Original bands, Semi pro, clubs, on call 'Dep' gigs (Sepultura to Shakira, Chic to Level 42). You find the string that works with you, try many gauges and materials (nickle, SS, roundwound, flats, grondwound etc). then when you find stings that suit you, concentrate on your control, attack and muting. Most of your tone you can master after strings. Your fingers, Bass eq, Ears and EQ/amp/ compressor and very important. Also go out front listen to the mix, ask your sound guy. The length of your nails are also crucial. Trevor Boulder kept a bit of nails to pluck... I could go on. But I won't. What it sounds like out front is the most important + an engineer who the band trusts, so you can enjoy and dislocate your neck from moshing! Bass for Life #💜32Hz
I did the P bass thing and I love them. I did the Stingray thing and I love them. I hired a 4003 for a while and that's my dream bass I cant have. Lol. That said, I have always loved the sound and feel of lower action on an active Jazz V. I go for the consistency of light (.125 low B stainless) strings picked not too hard but not gently, gripping the pick so I just use the very edge. I tend to make a frowny face EQ, dipping some 125 and punching in a little extra 1K for a throaty grind. May or may not kick on a Darkglass and squish it slightly with a comp at the end of the chain. Works pretty well, but I'm still doing mad scientist sh*t! 🤘
Some great points in the video but for me the thing that’s missed out in this video and is the most crucial part of getting the sound that you are demonstrating is new fresh bright roundwound steels/nickel strings especially for metal. You can mess around with string gauge all you want but for the sound that you are getting and for what most of the viewers want (that metal bass clunky sound) is new fresh strings. Try this on 1 month old well played steel strings and it’s gonna be dead no matter what. Truth of the matter is, it’s gonna cost a lot of money and annoying string changes every couple of weeks to get that metal sound. Personally I find the best string on the market for bass guitar is the Elixirs.
You have helped me so much with all these advice. I have a USA peavey Cirrus bolt on that I use to find she was lacking in the "mean tone" department. With all your advice, I set it up better, lower the action which add a lot of "clank" and "chunkiness" (love how we describe tone). The action and the tone now make that bass play, feel and sound like a 4k$ bass. Anyway, long post to say that with your help you saved me from buying again other bass when I don't need to. Thanks!
I just bought rotoswings 45-105 Stainless steel just cause I have a nickel allergy and I couldn't find any other ss strings, been liking them a lot so far.
Rotos are great strings and they are unique compared to all the others out there. And stainless steel are definitely better than nickel. I've tried so many different strings and have always done better on steel vs nickel.
Hey man, checked this video out a few days ago. Got around to changing some strings out today, Decided to drop the action quite a bit as well as drop a gauge in string size. Got the action really low with the amount of fret clank I could stand. Wow man, I’m a believer, so much more definition and tone now. Been kinda chasing this tone for a while now and I feel I’m a lot closer than I have ever been. Thanks for the advice man, I think it’s going to really make a big difference for me.
I watched the video again and laughed at myself through the whole thing. Everything you said I’ve found to be truth. Thank you again for the enlightenment.
I've been using medium D'addarios, with strings very close to the frets and lately I'm playing faster songs and having medium string don't help me, so now I'm using lighter strings and now I can play faster with less fatigue and the 3 finger technique lml
I'm a novice and wouldn't give any advise. What I can share is my experience with experimenting. I bought 5 different string sets. Funny enough, the recommendations you made was the process I set out for myself. I will keep my mind open as I haven't "found my voice" yet. I know the more experience I get under my belt my preference might change.
There’s a great quote from Fieldy that Dave Ellefson cited in an interview that really is the key to this whole thing “Your signature sound is in the hand you write your signature with”. I recently went to a lighter gauge strings and noticed a sort of hollowness in my tone that I not long after realized was due to me absolutely bashing my 135 gauge B (sometimes C) string and that I needed to lighten my right hand touch a bit. Problem gone.
Great video. I used nickel wound strings for quite a while. Then I tried some flat wounds and they're the best I've played yet.. You really do have to experiment.
HAHA you're pretty funny, Rodney. "Did you try those knobs on your amp ? They do things." Duh... Sorry, I guess somethings are just obvious to me after years of experience. To the newbies, just experiment until you find your sweet spot. When I record, I am BARELY touching the strings to get the result I want. When I play live, it's different. The bottom line is it costs money to try different brands and sizes of strings. You WILL find your match....
I've used both 50-135 and 45-105. 135 was too thick for my small fingers, 105 was okayish but still felt like I needed to press harder compared to everyone. My luthier suggested me to try 40-95 as it'll be easier for me to press and I can agree with it. It's not the standard and if I would say this openly people would just hate me and say things like "bruh you're just skipping the real". Everyone has different needs, we are not all the same. Hate all those people who just stick with the standard as all of us were made from the same mold. I'm petite, hands like a kid, bass it's almost the same height as me… If you still think it's okay to force me to use thick or standard just because "it's the norm", go back thinking please. I got a bit of high action (maybe mid?) despite my luthier trying to convince me to keep on low. I'm sorry but my pinky is so short that whenever I tried to pick the A, the folds from my inner hands will just place over the G and add that cling cling sound touching the frets. So yeah, everyone has diff needs. Do whatever works for you, I learned that from you.
I know it is relative to personal taste, but how long do you use a set of stings, and depending on the instrument do you use strings on one bass and move them to another because the older string work better for that bass?
Missed the live show for reasons. Going to transform the size of string for F#0 on a Warwick DarkLord at 35” scale, to whatever is on a Schecter C-1EX Apocalypse. Will report back. Cheers!
@@RodneyMcG I am noting tensions on factory strings from 56 lbs @ treble to 38lbs @bass. Should one not try to equalize the tension across all strings, before even getting to string construction tech? Btw, Warwick is using stainless steel, round wound, hex core.
Super helpful, thanks! I'd much rather have the right tools to learn than a canned crap answer, and this video definitely helped some light bulbs start to glimmer.
There's someone, a Luthier I think that said "the player will always focus on making the isntrument sound wrong and expect a luthier to fix a perfect set up instrument instead of focusing on their techniques". This was so true, I've always had cheap basses and they would sound dark, I always played so aggressive to find definition so I'd use medium gauge strings. When I changed to light gauge man the diference was huge. It really helped. Now I could finally afford a high end bass and this one in particular is so easy to play that now I have to relearn how to play on my right hand because It sounds aggressive without me applying any force on the right hand.
Preach! i've been saying this for ages, and it's so hard to get people to realize you have to change your playing along with gear to get certain sounds, and it only stands to benefit. Good for you.
I play in drop b and used to think I had to go at least 125 to tune that low. Then one day I saw this rig rundown of bass player from Dope who said he was using 55-110 in that tunning. Decided to give it a try and been using this very gauge in drop b ever since. I sure had to adapt my playing but I definitly have that agression you're talking about now. In my experience lack of low end is easy to compensate on an EQ (but I actually don't have any bass knob past 12 o'clock whether It's on m'y RBI, amp or bass) but no amount of EQing can replicate the grunt you get from a fresh light string ! But it would sure be a different story if I was a reggae player.
Exactly. But don't forget as well, a gauge is almost meaningless. A gauge of one brand may have a thicker overall diameter and completely different string tension not to mention tone than another. Gauge is the weakest way to judge the result of a strings characteristics. I've got more on that coming soon.
@@RodneyMcG sure, it's always the Ernie Balls for me which is funny after all the years I said they were shit because of bad luck on one guitar set. Tried the prosteels by d'addario and indeed, the 110 felt to loose on those.
Great video! You’re correct in that ‘we’ decide, and there’s no simple answer. We can ‘start’ with fundamental understanding, but do our experimenting to find what’s best for us! Then… we crazy musicians are always chasing tone! So by the time we figure it out, within a short period of time, we itch to change again 🤪!! Again, every player should listen to this!
I find lighter strings good for me. And love when they get old and loose that top end, go figure. Now I have been finding alot lately alot of faulty ones that rattle with no explanation and are dead.
Lots of guys, bassists included, go in and make BIG changes to... whatever. I got some advice once on bicycles. I work on my own. The guy told me: "Make small, single adjustments on your bicycle." It's good advice for the bass too. Yeah, it takes longer but you'll get there.
I've always used DR high beams and tried rotosound...good lord they sound and feel horrible.,Think I'm going to try DR low riders I need bright but a thicker tone. Thoughts?
Very solid advice bro. For me, I'm digging the LIGHTER TENSION I have found using DR HiBeams round core 100-40 on my 4 string Fender Jazz Bass. (If I can't always find Guage 100 to 40, I get the closest I can within the brand and style I want). But that's just me.
Thank you for this!!! Appreciate your efforts here. I love Tesla and Einstein because they would do these 4 things. 1. Experiment 2. Make Observations 3. Take Notes 4. Have knowledge ;) Sounds like you understand this!!! bravo....
If you can beat your bass hard enough to make dumb heavy string at a high tension flap like a 100 in drop b i commend the ability to do so. I like a big deep and warm sound so i like the heavier gauges , but my action is a business card away from the fingerboards on my fretless basses. for a low A with a 35" scale i use a kalium .176 gauge and its almost like an upright bass amount of oomph.
Not bad advice, I might suggest comparing between two fretted notes though. Most people prefer the sound of an open string so it's just not an apples to apples comparison but I get where you were coming from
Can I go with a Rotosound RS 50-110 LE strings hex core in C drop tuning on a 4 string bass ? Thanks in advance a video 💪🤘🤘🤘 Greetings from the Serbia 😇😎
I've done it before, but it depends on the sound you're looking for and the amount of tension that you find acceptable. It may take you adjusting your Technique a little bit, but that may wind up being a good thing. It's just one of those situations where you have to try it out for yourself experiment a bit and see if it works for you. Good luck and greetings from the usa!
@@RodneyMcG Thanks man. I've already put them on the bass. It's higher tension, most on a thicker strings. But the fat one is fine too. So I heve adjust my trusroad and action and it is a little bit hard then a 45-105. But all depends on strings and the tension they have. So, from than on I just have to change my way -style of picking and I hope that everything will be good! Thanks again for the answer and sorry for my English 🤣😉🤘🤘🤘💪😇😎
Interesting, I use Diaddario standard guage nickel round wound and always sounded great, on my Yamaha im struggling with sound clarity, they sound almost clunky and almost too heavy... My basses other than my Yamaha were custom built by myself but all had warmoth necks, but the yamaha is a RBX765a has a different sound, yet it feels so much better than my other ones. wheres the sound going, Unplugged the Yamaha dosent have the clarity yet on the older basses there seems to be more clarity eminating from the neck and frets........ im thinking the frets and the amount of frets on the yamaha have a different something ??????
Ever since the former bassist of Spectrum of Delusion, Jerry Kamer, recommened these to me, I have not purchased a nother string for years now. I play on D'addario EXL170-5SL regular light .45 - .130 strings and put them above anything else I have ever played. They are also great for my Schecter Omen Elite 5 string with a 35" scale length. They sound great every time, they hold tuning almost effortlessly and straight away, they retain their sparkle and brightness for quite a while too. That depends on how often they are played, of course, but even then I would say they sound better for longer. All in all, they are some of the most afforadable and dependable bass strings on the market. I could not recommend them enougn.
@@RodneyMcG I even put them above Elixir. Like you said though, at the end of the day it comes down to what is most comfortable and what sounds best to the player. I also completely agree with you about how different strings all affect your bass, sound, and playing differently. Absolutely true. It's really fascinating how many different aspects go into it all.
@@RodneyMcG 100%. I was taught that it all starts with your hands. How you are striking the strings, how hard you dig in, where your hand it positioned, the angle of attack. The rest is the same way. Each individual component adds up in small ways individually, but collectively very significant m
Great advice about not being committed to any specific string gauge. I have a Carvin LB75 that has just always worked best with a 135 for the B, but all of my other basses work well with a 125 or 130. Find with works best for your instrument and playing situation. And sometimes gauge has little to do with tension, as anyone who has played Labella flats that feel like bridge cables, can attest. On strings being too bright, my philosophy has always been this: I can cut what I don't want but I can't boost what's not there in the first place. If things are too bright, I can turn down the highs or the tone knob. On the other hand, I can't bring a set of dead strings to life by boosting the highs.
Hey man thanks for this video. I'm a finger style player a la Steve Harris/Geezer Butler and recently started jamming with a band who's tuned down to A. I never played this tuning or style in my life but went for the challenge and now I'm experiencing a lot of what you're describing. I bought a bass and set it up with the bottom 4 strings of a 5 string to increase the tension reduce the floppy-ness and it's way better but now I'm finding the B string (actually tuned to A) still a bit too "boomy" I'm trying to play lighter but relative to the other strings it still sounds way boomier . Any suggestions? Would hexcore strings help you think? I'm open to suggestions.
@@RodneyMcG if I were to try a set should I go for standard gauge fit for bottom 4 strings of a 5? That’s where I’m at now, or would that be too tight?
@@RodneyMcG the lot of us weren’t born with a silver spoon in our mouth… Funds are limited and literally nowhere to jam without being a nuisance…especially when you live in an apartment 😂😂 Any advice would seriously be appreciated. I’m sure the next person reading this will benefit from it. Thanks to anyone in advance.
@doobie8425 If you think I was one of those people you're talking about born with a silver spoon, guess again. I also spent the majority of my life in apartments. if you want to practice just sit down and practice. I don't understand the problem. If you definitely want to hear yourself plugged in, then get a small headphone amp and listen quietly. If you want to practice, you'll figure it out. It's not that hard. I spent a period of my life homeless and living in my car. I would climb into the back seat and practice there, Or drive to a park and just sit on a bench. There's plenty of solutions and they aren't that difficult.
For b standard, I think your advice is incredibly valid. What about for super low tunings like drop E0? My band recently decided to invade my register 🙃 I found a 5 string F# set from dingwalll that goes from 045" .055" .080" .100" .130" to .170" and I think I'm going to try it, but I really don't want to have to sand the nut on my bass to accommodate these telephone cables. I play a 35" scale 4 string and any advice you have is welcome (but I'm not tuning up and using a pitch shifter, and I'm not buying $2000+ bass)
Could you please update on that? I'm not playing metal, but I thought about such situations and have decided that I would act counterintuitively - I would buy a very light EADGC set and play around with EQ.
Some guy in the talkbass forum posted a few clips and had people guess what type of bass he was playing. Almost everyone guessed that the beefier sounding one had a 34" or longer scale. But then he revealed that it was a short scale bass.
It can, but is only one of a number of factors. I covered it in another video. Neck construction matters the most, along with solid fretwork and bridge work.
So let me see if i understood right. If i am testing that D note on a 125 B string, 3rd fret and i like the detuned E (100/ 105 i am guessing you have on that bass), then i go between 105 to 110 maybe 115 in order to get a good tension and the brighter and clearer tone. Am i getting this right? i am asking because it s a little ambiguous from the explanation in the vid. I imagine you didn't mean going from 105 to lighter when down tuning. Cuz that would make the string flop. Cheers sensei!
@@RodneyMcG They aren't cheap but your level of understanding for the factors affecting tone are stellar! You really brought to light some great analysis and some real world testing that makes sense. You have Mr wanting to do a similar thing for classical and electric guitars/strings
I usually swap strings with the same setup and settings so I can compare the strings properties to the ones I used before. Do you think this is an accurate way to compare the two or am I doing something wrong? Thanks! PS. What electronics does that black bass have? It sounds sick
To gauge it fairly, you need to set up the bass for the new strings. String height affects tone and how you percieve string tension. The bass in the video has EMG PX pickups in both positions.
I had to grow out of my "meathead" years using really heavy strings and beating the crap out of them before accepting that lighter gauge strings just might get the sound I was looking for better. It seems counterintuitive that lighter strings could bring a beefier snarl but I find that I get better articulation in that 1K or so range, at least the way I play. Actually I'm lightening up my attack a bit more still per your advice and it's starting to pay dividends so thanks.
Gee Rodney, it's almost like you're telling us we have to sprinkle experience into our education
WHAAAAT!? NEVAH!! 😂🤘
Such great points. I have gone DEEP down this rabbit hole of ideal strings when I first started to play bass after being a guitarist primarily for 15 years. Especially for a 5 string set up one whole step down ADGCF. I did the whole balanced tension set from Kalium with a CRAZY big 5th. Something like 158 (WTF!?). I had the bass professionally set up with these and long story short, it was muddy and just a PITA to play anything technical and had to have a bizarre EQ profile to try and cut through. It also took forever to receive those strings, which is a whole other story. I ended up going to the hex core DDT 45-125 set on my 35" scale schecter model T and couldn't be happier. I just had to adjust my technique and set up and this thing sounds way better than the Spector I had set up with the bridge cables for strings. What got me to switch was reading that Rex Brown did not use crazy heavy strings on any of the Pantera recordings. 45-125 Dean Markley on his euro 5LX tuned to ADGCF @425Hz or so. Too much time on Talkbass can lead you astray!
Excellent points, and don't get me started on talkbass 😂😂
It's scary all the string brands I've tried. 😱 The best I've tried in my ears have been Ken Smith Rockmasters strings. They have certain overtones that I haven't gotten from other strings. But there are so many options out there. It's insane.
@@RodneyMcG Talkbass messed me up big time.
Chasing a great metal tone in drop A, I ended up using a massive .165 for A0 and a 45-105 set for EAD (leaving the 45 off as it's a 4 string) based on advice from there. It was muddy and dark at the same time.
That, on a 32 inch ancient bass that doesn't have a trussrod or any neck reinforcement.
It ended up in a bent neck with an S curve. I fixed it myself, it was a lot of work.
Then eventually I just put a .130 with the 45 set on it.
In B standard or even drop A it was fine, but still dangerous to the weak neck.
Tuned it all the way down to F#BEA. Baritone guitar level of tensions. Refined my bad technique to fretting light, picking light and close to the bridge, and raised the bridge.
It's brilliant!
Update:
Came back to report, lowering the action and playing close to the neck with my fingers allows me to slap the strings against the fretboard and get a slap-like clank, even more brilliant! And there is a lot of sound to sculpt with an EQ (or leave as is) depending on what I fancy in the moment.
Update:
.120, .085, .065, .045 on 32 inch scale, drop A. Works! I need to be careful with it, but works!
Hey man I'm dealing with that now, I 'm using a .145 A string to keep the tension and reduce flap but now it's just too boomy sounding and the other strings sounds like tin. YOu think hexcore strings would help?
How does that work, are they just naturally less flappy at lower gauge?
What gauge would you recommend for AEAD tuning on a 4 string?
@@frankie8444In all honesty, though I guess hexcore might help you, best if you experience it yoitself.
What kind of works for me might not work for you.
I recently made the mistake of putting the exact same strings on all 3 of my basses, almost at once. Just because I have used Roto 66 for years I love them - when I took the stock strings off my AM P-bass and put the Rotosound on I hated the sound I was getting and the feel of the bass changed. Now, I have changed it from 45-105 Roto to 45-100 Fender 7250's, and it made a huge difference both brand and gauge (and material) and brought the bass back to life again, to my ears.
One size definitely does not fit all and it's ok to try something different until you get the sound your looking for.
I'm not a bass player, but I do play bass and have several at hand. I do feel and hear differences with various types of strings and gages on my basses, they don't all FEEL the same if I do use the same gage/type. This is the kind of advice I prefer, a detailed explanation with real-life facts... Perfect!!!
If you can play bass, that makes you a bass player. Sinple as that lol
Great timing with this episode. I've been playing 105's since 1991 (D'Addario XL) - feels & sounds good to me. A few years ago I tried the newer D'Addario NYXL 105's which I liked even better and have stuck with it. But last month for my birthday, my brother got me the NYXL's but in a 100 set and my GF got me NYXL's in the 110 set. So now I have two different gauges I've never tried. I wasn't loving the 110's and after a few weeks cut them off. Then I was thinking the worst for the 100 set. I was unable to exchange them and even if I could I didn't want to go through that hassle. So I restrung my bass with the 100 set and was amazed. The strings felt great on both my hands (typically use my fingers vs. a pick) and they sounded great. I feel everything is easier to play & don't get tired out as easy. The only gripe I had is when the other day I realized I've never tuned my E down to D. That's where I noticed a drop off in tone and would rather have the 105 E string. But for standard turning the 45-100 set was great & nothing what I ever expected. It fit my style/playing perfectly.
Nothing beats just trying out things yourself.
You might make people frustrated, but you're actually helping them figure it out. Nothing changes over night. Absolutely right. I have watched your videos before, but subscribed within the first 2 minutes of watching this video.
Much appreciated. Glad you got some value from it
This is kinda off topic. I am 53 years old. I’ve been playing for quite a while. I recently discovered I really like a high string height compared to what I have been used to all these years. I bought a 5 string Warwick and it came to me with high string height. I told myself I have to fix this but i was really enjoying something about it. I can really dig in. Now the lower action on my other basses feels not right at all.
You really have to throw all advice out the window and find out for yourself
The knowledge dropped in this video is GOLD!
I play in A standard with .045-.125 strings and it works perfectly for what sound I want. I’ve found musicians are like people in every other hobby or profession. It’s always the “this is the way I do it and every other way is wrong.”
Exactly!
I love the shirt Rodney!
EMG does some cool ones!
literally , one of the best channels for bass related stuff! plz never stop uploading
Thanks, will do!
I obtsined a Spector det up with heavey thick 4 strings from a metal band..I put on Thomastics lite gauge...love the feel sound and action now..even better than all my hi end basses
I started on light gauge strings . I wanted lower action even with the neck relief sorted and frets leveled I was not feeling it, at all. I ended up with 50-110 roto77 jazz flats . Few adjustments bingo sound was warm , definition , clarity , fantastic to my ear . Tension felt great nice low action . No digging in required . I can not see me changing anytime soon.Your explanation obviously applies to guitar as well . So simply put a real light bulb moment seems obvious after it's been framed . This is why Metal Bass is so good to be part of . I use isoprop to clean the strings . Keeps them sounding fresh for a long time it totally evaporates. Part of my secret sauce . Works for me
Oh yeah, I've been doing the acohol thing for a long time. Definitely keep the sharp edge in the tone.
@@RodneyMcG
Thanks for the pointers on the 1, 2 and 3 finger technique tutorials you've already done more to work through much appreciated 👍 excellent content and channel
Fantastic video and excellent points all around. My current bass set up is a 32" scale 5st bass with 40-109 strings on it. That's right; the 109 is my low B and sounds great.
Heresy!! Touches on a conversation i've been meaning to have with you on topic. I'll drop you a line.
It doesn't need to be this complex. Just buy a heavy set and a lite set with the hex core, and the same with round core. To find out what gage and tension you enjoy. For tone go with nickel if you want a more mellow sound and steel if you want a brighter in your face sound.
I 'm a musician in my late 60's and retired nurse with arthritis. I have had to go to LB low tension flats., the E being at 100 gauge , though I don't tune lower than a half step, but love the tone.
If it works, it works!
This video took the blinders off my eyes. Now I can keep my 5 string bass in A-standard; commit to it, and continue writing the music that I wanted to write in the first place.
This video helped me A LOT!
+1 to “it depends” being the only correct answer to pretty much any question related to string selection. I like the same sound/feel/action and don’t even use the same strings to accomplish that in my limited (2x 4str, 1x 5str) setup.
EXACTLY!
Great advice there, especially the picking hand, amazing how many times I've thought my tone isn't coming thru and then I play a little lighter and boom. Video came up as a suggestion. Subbed straight away.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the sub!
Awesome vid and explanation!
Been waiting for something like this a long time. Gonna show the vid to all "meeeeehhh you need at least a .160 String to go on A without sacrificing on the sound" guys i know :D
I´m playing ADGCF on a 34" scale just the way i like it with .045 to .130
Gotta convert the heathens! Glad you liked it.
I'm glad my dad helped me figure out what I like very early on. My choice in strings hasn't evolved much over the years except that I recently tried a set of Ernie Ball Beefy Slinky strings so I can keep my bass in B Standard tuning and simulate having a 5 string until I can afford the 5 string I've been eyeballing.
Excellent information. I am getting back into playing and almost setting up a new rig from scratch. I needed this. Thank you.
I’m not a metal player, but I love your videos, and I couldn’t agree more on so many points in this one. Having just recently come to a place in my journey where I’m really happy with my technique and sound, I wanted to see how closely my information on strings and setup matched yours and I was nodding all along! I learned a lot too! 🤘🏻
That's awesome, glad you enjoy the videos. Bass defintely trancends genre. All the best to you.
Always such a treasure to watch. Perfect timing on the video friend! 😜 Thank you, for always coming in clutch and telling it like it is. Nothing less than the best information, entertainment, and place to come learn and most of all listen. There is a lot to learn here folks and I sincerely appreciate this man and his time. 🤘
I appreciate that!
Randomly stumbled across this video as I was looking for various Bass String reviews. I just had a pro set up and a new set of GHS Balanced Nickels put on a short scale. The GHS BS get a lot of love from talkbass short scale players as being designed for short scales and resolving tension issues on the E string. I thought I would give them a try after I wore out the D'addario XL Nickel Wound that came stock (and that I liked). The GHS BN are not bright enough for my taste and don't cut through the mix the way I was hoping. I was searching for the next set of strings and then your video convinced me to leave the GHS BN on, at least 3 months, really get to know them and play with my eq settings and see what happens. Thanks for talking me off the edge.
Glad I could help, hope it works out
@@RodneyMcG Well it certainly did. I looked at my amp (Rumble 500) and pressed the button labeled "Bright". And boom, fixed my strings right up. You were right, those knobs and buttons on my amp actually do things.
Hey, I have no issues experimenting with my bass. I've been a Science Nerd since I was a kid so running trial-and-error experiments is a joy for me. The only problem holding me back is Money.
what a beautiful explanation of bass strings. thank you
I played 45-130s on my Yamaha TRB5P for over 20 years - not a metal guy- as I worried about low B flapping. I recently found i was getting a lot of fret noise- not 4 me - and I put 40's on. WOW less noise, just as much tension and no tension loss on B as I finally found perfect set up. I also can schlapp it now which i got bad results from before. For THIS bass d'addario EXL220-5 is right for mr with its jumbo frets, can't say for others.
You never know until you try!
Good episode. My main bass is a Dingwall and its actually quite liberating having next to no options for strings.
Dingwalls are just a total departure from it all, Dingwall guitar with Dingwall pickups and Dingwall strings get you Dingwall sound
Great advice as always Rodney. There are no easy answers on this issue because there's so many variables. It is an experimentation and adjustment of one's personal journey of said variables. I saw your comment here about talkbass. I had to smile because we've all been/are guilty of seeking easy answers. Some things yes, some things no. Keep up the fine work sir.
To thine own ears be true ;)
@@RodneyMcG Haha! Yes indeed!
Accomadation, oh man you are correct! I changed to a new set of strings totally different, and over time of playing I had heard different tones. I needed to tweek the apm and other parameters. Adjusted action a bit and string tension. Playing with a Floyde Rose Tremolo is tedious turning and maintaining. I may play again soon and think the sound is out of wack again. The new set of strings are 3 months old now. They are deffinently broken in by now. I am buying a Bas guitar first in many years. As a lead guitarist for many years, learning the highly importance of rhythm and timing for both drums and bass, will not be difficult still will be challenging knowing about key pointers to remember. I am here to get others ideas for which string gauge I should look at for a mid to heavy playing style.
Thanks so much for this video! I bought my dream bass recently (pick player / for progressive metal, punk, etc) - a 5-String Warwick Teambuilt Pro Series Thumb BO (made in Germany) and absolutely love it, but have been incredibly bummed out about the low B string. I'm running the recommended 135-45 set (hex core, stainless) and it sounds so-so tuned to B, but when I drop it to A the string just goes completely dead. It's super dark, limp, has almost no sustain, and is riddled with fret clank all up and down the board (which I like a little of, but not this much). Thought I made a mistake and started shopping for a Dingwall until I saw this video. Grabbed a couple singles - 120/125/130 and I'm going to try them out. The other strings are incredible on this Thumb and if I can get that same kind of grind and clarity on the low B, I'll keep this for the rest of my life. Wish me luck!
Thanks for the kind words and congrats on the gear. Best of luck to you.
Back in the day, I had a Warwick Pro 5 string aswell, same issue. I found it needed a tapered 5th string at the ball end. Used to have to buy a 4 string set and then a separate tapered 5th string.
I agree with experiment with strings , you kind of have to find what the bass likes . My RIC like the DR pure blues , my Boxer bass likes Rotosounds , my P bass is set with Black Tape wounds , my Sandberg basses like EB cobalt .my 5 string Jazz likes Sunbeams and sire V7 5st. Ive got Ernie ball cobalt flats .
But tomorrow I could find something I like better .😊
Exactly. Everyone has its own personality
Also the scale of bass is one. For me getting little bot thicker strings for 34" compared to 35", is the way to go. But that's me and my style of playing.
I'm the same
I only run a 130 B string, which is hardly at the extreme end. But I don't know why it never occurred to me that the reason my B sounds "hollow" to me is that it's mostly fundamental with no mids to warm it up. I had it in my head that it was the exact opposite, the B was missing because the string wasn't heavy enough or the scale length was inadequate. I was thinking I was getting nothing but weaker harmonics, no fundamental. Now I see I made an oopsie. I'm about to restring with another 130 set. But my first plan is to experiment with tuning down to see if that warms up the big string. Of course, having a good set of strings instead of the generic garbage that came on my $100 budget bass will make a difference for sure.
Great video. Some people tend to have established expectations and won't waiver outside of those as if they're absolute. It's interesting when you make people listen and give their opinion on the sound before you tell them the setup; often they're surprised. I like a .135 elixir nickel on my Ibanez SR for the B- that's just my preference for feel. I can always change the sound with the EQ if I need to. Thanks
Well said!
I agree with you man. We live in a world of 20 second 'shorts' and need results now. Our attention span is SHIT. The past few years I've been (with what very little free time I have ) working on my guitars in order to figure out my own person sound/setup formula. I would never take what I've learned back. You have to take the time....and fail a million times...but eventually win. Because of the frustration I've gone through with my guitars...I've found my formula and could not be happier. It is worth it and takes time.
Perfectly said
I've been Playing for nearly 40 years, metal, rock, pop, funk, disco.
Original bands, Semi pro, clubs, on call 'Dep' gigs (Sepultura to Shakira, Chic to Level 42). You find the string that works with you, try many gauges and materials (nickle, SS, roundwound, flats, grondwound etc). then when you find stings that suit you, concentrate on your control, attack and muting.
Most of your tone you can master after strings. Your fingers, Bass eq, Ears and EQ/amp/ compressor and very important. Also go out front listen to the mix, ask your sound guy. The length of your nails are also crucial. Trevor Boulder kept a bit of nails to pluck... I could go on. But I won't.
What it sounds like out front is the most important + an engineer who the band trusts, so you can enjoy and dislocate your neck from moshing!
Bass for Life #💜32Hz
I did the P bass thing and I love them. I did the Stingray thing and I love them. I hired a 4003 for a while and that's my dream bass I cant have. Lol.
That said, I have always loved the sound and feel of lower action on an active Jazz V. I go for the consistency of light (.125 low B stainless) strings picked not too hard but not gently, gripping the pick so I just use the very edge. I tend to make a frowny face EQ, dipping some 125 and punching in a little extra 1K for a throaty grind. May or may not kick on a Darkglass and squish it slightly with a comp at the end of the chain. Works pretty well, but I'm still doing mad scientist sh*t! 🤘
Some great points in the video but for me the thing that’s missed out in this video and is the most crucial part of getting the sound that you are demonstrating is new fresh bright roundwound steels/nickel strings especially for metal.
You can mess around with string gauge all you want but for the sound that you are getting and for what most of the viewers want (that metal bass clunky sound) is new fresh strings. Try this on 1 month old well played steel strings and it’s gonna be dead no matter what.
Truth of the matter is, it’s gonna cost a lot of money and annoying string changes every couple of weeks to get that metal sound.
Personally I find the best string on the market for bass guitar is the Elixirs.
Yeah, that's pretty obvious. I figure if someone didn't care enough to even change their strings, that isn't the audience this video is for😂🤘
You have helped me so much with all these advice. I have a USA peavey Cirrus bolt on that I use to find she was lacking in the "mean tone" department. With all your advice, I set it up better, lower the action which add a lot of "clank" and "chunkiness" (love how we describe tone). The action and the tone now make that bass play, feel and sound like a 4k$ bass. Anyway, long post to say that with your help you saved me from buying again other bass when I don't need to. Thanks!
Glad to be of service!
this fella is really slick I better subscribe, he my teach me something
Makes sense that there would not be any easy answers. There are so many factors that go into each question.
Exactly
Didn't know about hex-core strings. I will checking this out
I just bought rotoswings 45-105 Stainless steel just cause I have a nickel allergy and I couldn't find any other ss strings, been liking them a lot so far.
Same here. 5 minutes after jamming on Nickels and all my fingers are black.
Rotos are great strings and they are unique compared to all the others out there. And stainless steel are definitely better than nickel. I've tried so many different strings and have always done better on steel vs nickel.
Hey man, checked this video out a few days ago. Got around to changing some strings out today, Decided to drop the action quite a bit as well as drop a gauge in string size. Got the action really low with the amount of fret clank I could stand. Wow man, I’m a believer, so much more definition and tone now. Been kinda chasing this tone for a while now and I feel I’m a lot closer than I have ever been. Thanks for the advice man, I think it’s going to really make a big difference for me.
Great to hear!
I watched the video again and laughed at myself through the whole thing. Everything you said I’ve found to be truth. Thank you again for the enlightenment.
I've been using medium D'addarios, with strings very close to the frets and lately I'm playing faster songs and having medium string don't help me, so now I'm using lighter strings and now I can play faster with less fatigue and the 3 finger technique lml
I had to rise my action a little bit and adjust my attack but it's been great so far
I'm a novice and wouldn't give any advise. What I can share is my experience with experimenting. I bought 5 different string sets. Funny enough, the recommendations you made was the process I set out for myself. I will keep my mind open as I haven't "found my voice" yet. I know the more experience I get under my belt my preference might change.
Preferences change as long as you play! It's part of the adventure!
There’s a great quote from Fieldy that Dave Ellefson cited in an interview that really is the key to this whole thing “Your signature sound is in the hand you write your signature with”. I recently went to a lighter gauge strings and noticed a sort of hollowness in my tone that I not long after realized was due to me absolutely bashing my 135 gauge B (sometimes C) string and that I needed to lighten my right hand touch a bit. Problem gone.
It's almost like your sound comes from how you play! Funny thing about that! 😉😂🤘
That doesn’t apply to my because I write left handed but play right 🥴
This is the most red-pilled video I´ve seen about bass strings! 🐱
Great work here. Thank you.
Great video. I used nickel wound strings for quite a while. Then I tried some flat wounds and they're the best I've played yet.. You really do have to experiment.
You never know what the best answer may be until you try it.
@@RodneyMcG Exactly. I may switch to those permently because they feel better on my fretting hand.
Just made the switch to super slinky’s a couple weeks ago.
HAHA you're pretty funny, Rodney. "Did you try those knobs on your amp ? They do things." Duh... Sorry, I guess somethings are just obvious to me after years of experience. To the newbies, just experiment until you find your sweet spot. When I record, I am BARELY touching the strings to get the result I want. When I play live, it's different. The bottom line is it costs money to try different brands and sizes of strings. You WILL find your match....
I have these fender strings on my new Squier and they actually sounds pretty good. I usually get hibeams on my first bass
I've used both 50-135 and 45-105. 135 was too thick for my small fingers, 105 was okayish but still felt like I needed to press harder compared to everyone. My luthier suggested me to try 40-95 as it'll be easier for me to press and I can agree with it. It's not the standard and if I would say this openly people would just hate me and say things like "bruh you're just skipping the real". Everyone has different needs, we are not all the same. Hate all those people who just stick with the standard as all of us were made from the same mold. I'm petite, hands like a kid, bass it's almost the same height as me… If you still think it's okay to force me to use thick or standard just because "it's the norm", go back thinking please.
I got a bit of high action (maybe mid?) despite my luthier trying to convince me to keep on low. I'm sorry but my pinky is so short that whenever I tried to pick the A, the folds from my inner hands will just place over the G and add that cling cling sound touching the frets.
So yeah, everyone has diff needs. Do whatever works for you, I learned that from you.
I know it is relative to personal taste, but how long do you use a set of stings, and depending on the instrument do you use strings on one bass and move them to another because the older string work better for that bass?
It's definitely personal taste. I can't really advise as I am always going for a hyper aggro tone. There's never a good spot for dull strings for me😂
@@RodneyMcG Yeah I definitely get closer to your sound with newer strings, EQ m can help some as they age but it becomes synthetic sounding
Missed the live show for reasons. Going to transform the size of string for F#0 on a Warwick DarkLord at 35” scale, to whatever is on a Schecter C-1EX Apocalypse. Will report back. Cheers!
Let us know how it goes for sure
@@RodneyMcG I am noting tensions on factory strings from 56 lbs @ treble to 38lbs @bass. Should one not try to equalize the tension across all strings, before even getting to string construction tech?
Btw, Warwick is using stainless steel, round wound, hex core.
Also, if you find yourself digging in too hard - turn the amp up, you will automatically play lighter to accomodate for the loudness increase
Fact. I've tried drilling that into people's heads, but they just won't hear it!
Super helpful, thanks! I'd much rather have the right tools to learn than a canned crap answer, and this video definitely helped some light bulbs start to glimmer.
There's someone, a Luthier I think that said "the player will always focus on making the isntrument sound wrong and expect a luthier to fix a perfect set up instrument instead of focusing on their techniques". This was so true, I've always had cheap basses and they would sound dark, I always played so aggressive to find definition so I'd use medium gauge strings. When I changed to light gauge man the diference was huge. It really helped. Now I could finally afford a high end bass and this one in particular is so easy to play that now I have to relearn how to play on my right hand because It sounds aggressive without me applying any force on the right hand.
Preach! i've been saying this for ages, and it's so hard to get people to realize you have to change your playing along with gear to get certain sounds, and it only stands to benefit. Good for you.
I play in drop b and used to think I had to go at least 125 to tune that low. Then one day I saw this rig rundown of bass player from Dope who said he was using 55-110 in that tunning. Decided to give it a try and been using this very gauge in drop b ever since. I sure had to adapt my playing but I definitly have that agression you're talking about now. In my experience lack of low end is easy to compensate on an EQ (but I actually don't have any bass knob past 12 o'clock whether It's on m'y RBI, amp or bass) but no amount of EQing can replicate the grunt you get from a fresh light string ! But it would sure be a different story if I was a reggae player.
Exactly. But don't forget as well, a gauge is almost meaningless. A gauge of one brand may have a thicker overall diameter and completely different string tension not to mention tone than another. Gauge is the weakest way to judge the result of a strings characteristics. I've got more on that coming soon.
@@RodneyMcG sure, it's always the Ernie Balls for me which is funny after all the years I said they were shit because of bad luck on one guitar set. Tried the prosteels by d'addario and indeed, the 110 felt to loose on those.
Great video! You’re correct in that ‘we’ decide, and there’s no simple answer. We can ‘start’ with fundamental understanding, but do our experimenting to find what’s best for us! Then… we crazy musicians are always chasing tone! So by the time we figure it out, within a short period of time, we itch to change again 🤪!!
Again, every player should listen to this!
Well said!
I find lighter strings good for me. And love when they get old and loose that top end, go figure. Now I have been finding alot lately alot of faulty ones that rattle with no explanation and are dead.
What are those clip on things you have on the strings???
Excellent video.
Nicely done Rodney! I think you just saved a bunch of folks some serious $$$. Well done! -Stay healthy! -Brent
Thanks Brent, always looking to do my bass on the cheap!
Lots of guys, bassists included, go in and make BIG changes to... whatever.
I got some advice once on bicycles. I work on my own. The guy told me: "Make small, single adjustments on your bicycle."
It's good advice for the bass too. Yeah, it takes longer but you'll get there.
I've always used DR high beams and tried rotosound...good lord they sound and feel horrible.,Think I'm going to try DR low riders I need bright but a thicker tone. Thoughts?
Very solid advice bro. For me, I'm digging the LIGHTER TENSION I have found using DR HiBeams round core 100-40 on my 4 string Fender Jazz Bass. (If I can't always find Guage 100 to 40, I get the closest I can within the brand and style I want). But that's just me.
You never can tell what may work until you experiment.
Thank you for this!!! Appreciate your efforts here. I love Tesla and Einstein because they would do these 4 things. 1. Experiment 2. Make Observations 3. Take Notes 4. Have knowledge ;) Sounds like you understand this!!! bravo....
Bravo. Important facts.
You also need a longer scale for tension.
When you said fretboard sized string i lost it....😂😂😂😂😂😂
Your content is great. I can't believe you don't have 100k subs yet. Keep at it!
If you can beat your bass hard enough to make dumb heavy string at a high tension flap like a 100 in drop b i commend the ability to do so. I like a big deep and warm sound so i like the heavier gauges , but my action is a business card away from the fingerboards on my fretless basses. for a low A with a 35" scale i use a kalium .176 gauge and its almost like an upright bass amount of oomph.
And your choice fits exactly your sound. Perfect.
I'm enjoying my thomastik flats on my Warwick double buck 5 string. I'm probably an outlier but I really dig my tone and the way it plays.
Works for you, that's all that matters
Not bad advice, I might suggest comparing between two fretted notes though. Most people prefer the sound of an open string so it's just not an apples to apples comparison but I get where you were coming from
Can I go with a Rotosound RS 50-110 LE strings hex core in C drop tuning on a 4 string bass ?
Thanks in advance a video 💪🤘🤘🤘
Greetings from the Serbia 😇😎
I've done it before, but it depends on the sound you're looking for and the amount of tension that you find acceptable. It may take you adjusting your Technique a little bit, but that may wind up being a good thing. It's just one of those situations where you have to try it out for yourself experiment a bit and see if it works for you. Good luck and greetings from the usa!
@@RodneyMcG
Thanks man.
I've already put them on the bass.
It's higher tension, most on a thicker strings.
But the fat one is fine too.
So I heve adjust my trusroad and action and it is a little bit hard then a 45-105.
But all depends on strings and the tension they have.
So, from than on I just have to change my way -style of picking and I hope that everything will be good!
Thanks again for the answer and sorry for my English 🤣😉🤘🤘🤘💪😇😎
You are so right.As with most anything in life one must put in the effort to achieve positive results.You gotta' work for love.
I just got recommended this after ordering 8 sets of .050-.160s 😂
All jokes aside they'll work fine since I'm tuning down quite low ;)
Whatever works is the only rule!
Interesting, I use Diaddario standard guage nickel round wound and always sounded great, on my Yamaha im struggling with sound clarity, they sound almost clunky and almost too heavy...
My basses other than my Yamaha were custom built by myself but all had warmoth necks, but the yamaha is a RBX765a has a different sound, yet it feels so much better than my other ones. wheres the sound going, Unplugged the Yamaha dosent have the clarity yet on the older basses there seems to be more clarity eminating from the neck and frets........ im thinking the frets and the amount of frets on the yamaha have a different something ??????
It could be any number of things. That's why people go through so many guitars looking for the one that's just right
Ever since the former bassist of Spectrum of Delusion, Jerry Kamer, recommened these to me, I have not purchased a nother string for years now. I play on D'addario EXL170-5SL regular light .45 - .130 strings and put them above anything else I have ever played. They are also great for my Schecter Omen Elite 5 string with a 35" scale length. They sound great every time, they hold tuning almost effortlessly and straight away, they retain their sparkle and brightness for quite a while too. That depends on how often they are played, of course, but even then I would say they sound better for longer. All in all, they are some of the most afforadable and dependable bass strings on the market. I could not recommend them enougn.
They are quality strings, no doubt
@@RodneyMcG I even put them above Elixir. Like you said though, at the end of the day it comes down to what is most comfortable and what sounds best to the player.
I also completely agree with you about how different strings all affect your bass, sound, and playing differently. Absolutely true. It's really fascinating how many different aspects go into it all.
Yeah, bass tone is an ecosystem. Everything affects everything else!@@coltonpugh9669
@@RodneyMcG 100%. I was taught that it all starts with your hands. How you are striking the strings, how hard you dig in, where your hand it positioned, the angle of attack. The rest is the same way. Each individual component adds up in small ways individually, but collectively very significant m
Great advice about not being committed to any specific string gauge. I have a Carvin LB75 that has just always worked best with a 135 for the B, but all of my other basses work well with a 125 or 130. Find with works best for your instrument and playing situation. And sometimes gauge has little to do with tension, as anyone who has played Labella flats that feel like bridge cables, can attest.
On strings being too bright, my philosophy has always been this: I can cut what I don't want but I can't boost what's not there in the first place. If things are too bright, I can turn down the highs or the tone knob. On the other hand, I can't bring a set of dead strings to life by boosting the highs.
Agreed on all points.
Hey man thanks for this video. I'm a finger style player a la Steve Harris/Geezer Butler and recently started jamming with a band who's tuned down to A. I never played this tuning or style in my life but went for the challenge and now I'm experiencing a lot of what you're describing. I bought a bass and set it up with the bottom 4 strings of a 5 string to increase the tension reduce the floppy-ness and it's way better but now I'm finding the B string (actually tuned to A) still a bit too "boomy" I'm trying to play lighter but relative to the other strings it still sounds way boomier . Any suggestions? Would hexcore strings help you think? I'm open to suggestions.
Hexcore may help. You might have to modify your eq a bit as well
@@RodneyMcG if I were to try a set should I go for standard gauge fit for bottom 4 strings of a 5? That’s where I’m at now, or would that be too tight?
For A tuning that will be fine
Here’s an even better question. Where is the best places to practice? Like a band “HQ”?
I’ve exhausted almost every option other than an office space…
Wherever you feel like it?
@@RodneyMcG the lot of us weren’t born with a silver spoon in our mouth…
Funds are limited and literally nowhere to jam without being a nuisance…especially when you live in an apartment 😂😂
Any advice would seriously be appreciated. I’m sure the next person reading this will benefit from it.
Thanks to anyone in advance.
@doobie8425 If you think I was one of those people you're talking about born with a silver spoon, guess again. I also spent the majority of my life in apartments. if you want to practice just sit down and practice. I don't understand the problem. If you definitely want to hear yourself plugged in, then get a small headphone amp and listen quietly. If you want to practice, you'll figure it out. It's not that hard. I spent a period of my life homeless and living in my car. I would climb into the back seat and practice there, Or drive to a park and just sit on a bench. There's plenty of solutions and they aren't that difficult.
If you really want to do it, You will get it accomplished. I have Faith in you. 🤘
Also, have a question here. Whats your go to 5 string in your studio these days?
SIT PowerSteel
You got a new subscriber with this video. 👍🏻
Great material, thx
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
For b standard, I think your advice is incredibly valid. What about for super low tunings like drop E0? My band recently decided to invade my register 🙃 I found a 5 string F# set from dingwalll that goes from 045" .055" .080" .100" .130" to .170" and I think I'm going to try it, but I really don't want to have to sand the nut on my bass to accommodate these telephone cables. I play a 35" scale 4 string and any advice you have is welcome (but I'm not tuning up and using a pitch shifter, and I'm not buying $2000+ bass)
Could you please update on that? I'm not playing metal, but I thought about such situations and have decided that I would act counterintuitively - I would buy a very light EADGC set and play around with EQ.
Nail on the head good buddy.
does a longer scale length have more to do with getting a beefy tone with clarity and a strong fundamental, instead of heavier gauge strings?
Some guy in the talkbass forum posted a few clips and had people guess what type of bass he was playing.
Almost everyone guessed that the beefier sounding one had a 34" or longer scale. But then he revealed that it was a short scale bass.
It can, but is only one of a number of factors. I covered it in another video. Neck construction matters the most, along with solid fretwork and bridge work.
So let me see if i understood right. If i am testing that D note on a 125 B string, 3rd fret and i like the detuned E (100/ 105 i am guessing you have on that bass), then i go between 105 to 110 maybe 115 in order to get a good tension and the brighter and clearer tone. Am i getting this right? i am asking because it s a little ambiguous from the explanation in the vid. I imagine you didn't mean going from 105 to lighter when down tuning. Cuz that would make the string flop. Cheers sensei!
Love this, you're a master of tech 🤘
You're too kind, sir. I'm actually just cheap and strings cost too much!
@@RodneyMcG They aren't cheap but your level of understanding for the factors affecting tone are stellar! You really brought to light some great analysis and some real world testing that makes sense. You have Mr wanting to do a similar thing for classical and electric guitars/strings
I usually swap strings with the same setup and settings so I can compare the strings properties to the ones I used before.
Do you think this is an accurate way to compare the two or am I doing something wrong? Thanks!
PS. What electronics does that black bass have? It sounds sick
To gauge it fairly, you need to set up the bass for the new strings. String height affects tone and how you percieve string tension. The bass in the video has EMG PX pickups in both positions.
@@RodneyMcG Gotcha thank you! I'm learning so much from your videos, there seems to be so many misconceptions on the internet 😯
Glad you're getting something from the channel, and yeah, the internet is 90% misconceptions!
I had to grow out of my "meathead" years using really heavy strings and beating the crap out of them before accepting that lighter gauge strings just might get the sound I was looking for better. It seems counterintuitive that lighter strings could bring a beefier snarl but I find that I get better articulation in that 1K or so range, at least the way I play. Actually I'm lightening up my attack a bit more still per your advice and it's starting to pay dividends so thanks.
It definitely gives you more definition if that's what you need.
when I am in the mood to hear a great bass tone, I watch this channel or cue up a Kings X track...
I know the knobs on my amp do something, they go to 11. All of them. Unrelated, my tone sucks, can you give me some advice?
Without hearing your tone and an example of what you want? Nope!
Thank you!