To me the Delta 3V would be the choice for a chopper or "survival" type knife (e.g. one that will be abused) so long as corrosion isn't a priority (ocean) and the Magnacut for slicing, wood working, normal bushcrafting, light batoning, kitchen use, or anything else that doesn't involve gross abuse. I believe the Magnacut is going to have slightly better edge retention most of the time with superior corrosion resistance, and the Delta 3V is going to be tougher.
Dr. Larris Thomas, the inventor of Magnacut steel, said in an interview that the number one factor affecting knife performance is edge geometry. Understanding the intended use of a knife is important to apply an edge geometry that will optimize performance. Larrin said that a knife that might not seem very good can be made better by modifying the edge geometry.
And magnacut is designed to have great edge retention when grinding thinner than usual. A hollow ground blade with a 15 thou edge before sharpening and convex edge in magnacut would cut the bolt fine....
I have to agree, you can make a supernice chisel in carbon steel that cut wood like butter, but one knot and the edge is gone. Grind it another way and you can cut aluminium. Or that is my experience anywas...
But you also can just print Magnacut on the blade and the main task called sales is completed. Most of the people type "Magnacut" "D2" "S30V" "ZDP189" or something into the search engine and decide on what looks most military and badass. Marketing. Nothing more.
What an excellent example of the importance of heat treating as much as the steel type for specific designs and uses. Thanks for the data points! Have a great week.
That's a really fascinating comparison! The Delta 3V steel in particular is astonishingly resilient. However, my kitchen knives will certainly never be used to cut any bolts or chains. I look forward to eventually adding a magnacut blade to my arsenal.
Would like to see a comparison of edge retention between your heat treat and the standard heat treats for magnacut. Also thanks for the video. I enjoyed watching it.
i'll just leave a like and a comment to support your work and that you destroyed your own knives that you worked on and did an effort on them. I respect that you have balls to do this only to show us, thanks.
I am sitting here awestruck! I mean completely flabbergasted! A knife cutting a nail and virtually unscathed afterwards floored me…but a chain…🤯🤯🤯!!! I just know, without searching, it will make me seem poor; so I won’t look. AMAZING!!!
You may want to look into them. While they are more expensive than something made by Ontario or Kabar (who in my opinion make some pretty good knives in their price range) Carothers knives are in the same price range as other higher end brands using much lesser steels when you purchase directly from CPK. The secondary market can be horrifying though. In other words, yeah they're pricey but worth it. And not so pricey that your average working person can't save up for one within a reasonable amount of time by saving a few dollars regularly on this or that. From Carothers. Not on the secondary market. Scalpers gonna scalp.
I don't really care about stainlessness. I've used carbon steel kitchen knives for over forty years now. They don't rust and I can get a fantastic edge on them. If I could get a better edge on stainless, I've never found stainless gave me any better edge retention, the patina isn't a problem -- they 'grey' rather than rust here in the damp (but not humid) UK and the edge is both fantastic and easy to sharpen.
Just goes to show what a great heat treat can do for a knife. There's so much focus on just the blade steel a knife might have but other attributes such as heat treat, edge angle, thickness behind the edge all matter just as much in the overall execution in creating a great knife.
Amen to that. Edge geometry and heat treatment are often just an afterthought with many makers I see. The best premium steel can be atrocious with a bad heat treatment or bad edge geometry.
Some guy on Blade Forums was trying to say that the Delta Heat Treat was just a marketing scam. Personally, I think he's talking out of his ring piece, but it is what it is. Any blade that can slice through a chain that thick without taking a chip or major damage is a big win! Great job Carothers!
@@beowulf_of_wall_st It's all about choice and what your personal needs are. Do you use your blades hard? Do you baby them? So many steels, so many choices. You decide what YOU need. Personally, I am glad that the option is available.
Nah, it's just a damn good heat treatment meant for knives and not industrial tool use. Using primary hardening instead of secondary makes for better corrosion resistance and other stuff. Getting the ideal austenite, temper, and cryo or not combo takes time to dial in. The best knife makers are the ones that Todo torture tests to make sure their heat treat is up to snuff.
@@isaiahmountford5815Sadly. But those are EDC type knives. A small fixed blade is the true workhorse, and worthy of these steels imo. I'd have a hard time spending 250+ on a knife, but MagnaCut in a fixed blade from a local maker would do it. But really, most use super steels in their folders then pull out a Mora when they need to cut sandy carpet.. it might not hold up but it'll only be ten bucks for a new one..
Just curious how aeb-l steel stacks up toughness wise. I have it on a few balisongs and it is insanely tough and stainless. It's not on the same level as 3V in edge retention, but I'm dying to see it against 3V in toughness.
AEB-L is so low in the steel category and so far from these steels, that it's useless to compare it to them. Magnacut is WAY harder, will hold it's edge for at least 6 to 8 times more, than AEB - L, and that may sound little, but it's huge. in real use. AEB -L is one of the oldest steels, where Magnacut is the newest... It's night and day. You won't see any difference in toughness, in real use ,between any of these steels you ,mention. Literally no difference at all, other than edge retention and ease of sharpening.
@greekveteran2715 Old doesn't mean poor. Harden the AEB-L to 63 and then see what it can do. At a thinner angle it'll outcut most steels, but MagnaCut will outdo it for edge retention and similar toughness, but for more money.
@@mikafoxx2717 aeb-l can hold its edge retention against 3v ...magnacut only out performs it slightly...aebl is the same or better toughness than 3v and walks away from magnacut and is easier to sharpen than both 3v and magnacut....older steels that have been around awhile have been around for a reason
Delta 3V is pretty much untouchable. Insanely tough and fairly stain resistant. Magnacut looks impressive for a fully stainless steel for sure, but can't see it being better option than the Delta 3V for overall usage.
It's sort of a coked up AEB-L, though admittedly, I'll say that I've used it only in woodworking tools. But think slicing knife with some impact testing (not twisting) and that's what woodworking will advise on in terms of knife steels.
@@chinaskibukowski7747 It's hard to think of a short explanation of it! under the microscope, it has tiny carbides like AEB-L. it sort of wears a little longer, a little more stainless, a little more time to sharpen.... coked up :)
The modern super steels are great for edge retention, but are they tough as carbon st with a good HT? I know people are overly focused on edge retention.
If your talking 01, d2, 1095, yes they are infact tougher in my opinion. 3v is one of the most practical all around steels to exist in my opinion, totally under untilzed. Also another under used steel is cru wear.
Oh a few months back I found those radius plattens I got from you and decided to give them a try. It changed everything for me. Talk about a perfect grind for a chef's knife. I had some S35VN .140" stock. Never wanted to use it for chef's knives but now it do a flat distal taper out to the tip with a zero edges and pull the hollow up to the distal taper. Most of the contact surface is thinner than it would be on a FFG. That little bit of hollow might help with food release. The part I love is that I get the the very thin and slicy blade that is what I am doing with a chef knife but I get some weight and a very stiff blade that just feels better. I hope you keep making those things. I have only been using them for a few months and I am Freaking out about what happens when they wear out. If there is anything else you make for grinding I don't know where to find your stuff. It was really random when I saw them up the sellers page of BF.
Your knives are awesome- I have a DEK 1 and UF which are fantastic and waiting on a Basic 5. My knife buying has about stopped except for yours and Joe Watson.
I love magnacut. Have a chef knife at 64 hrc i dropped edge first into stone tile. The chef knife is screaming thin and chiped the stone tile... barely any edge damage and 5 minutes on a 300 stone to get it back to new. Also have a outdoor blade in my own design at 63 hrc thats pretty thin and ive banged it trough two by fours and cuts loads of cardboard and plastic glued foam stuff. Still push cut free standing magasine paper after that. Chef knife is 10 per side outdoor 15 per side Myself dislike thick blades performance thin blades is my realm of blades and magnacut is a steel you can go thin with plenty tough silly stainless and good edge retention what more could you want
@@JREwing-se2wk i cant afford to buy anything with my current economical situation. Geometry makes all the difference like my mate aaron johnson showed he cut a nail with a sharpend butter knife
I am into thin and slicy knives too. I am using M4 at 66Rc and it does well down in the 6-8 degrees range. Have you ever tried it or plan on pushing Magnacut up there. I want to try it but I have lot of knives to finish and since my dewer is broken it's expensive to heat treat for a single blade so I need to run some batches so it's worth spending $50 on LN. I'm chasing what will hold up at higher hardness to support the edge and still do a quality edge. I wish Larrin would do something like a non stainless version and see if it could be pushed harder. I really want to see how 68Rc cuts.
So, a little longer soak time for the Magnacut. Thank you for that tidbit. Are you using LN or dry ice? I imagine with lower austenitization temps. the dry ice is sufficient because retained austenite doesn't seem to be as big of an issue with this steel.
I appreciate what Larin has done with magnacut. I have a few knives in it. But man do I love some delta 3V. Unfortunately I only have one of your knives because they literally sell out in 2 seconds on blade forums. Haha. And for those that don’t know… I mean LITERALLY sell out in 2 seconds. Haha
You can find them used sometimes on the forums too. I haven't been on that forum since the general section knows nothing about heat treatment. It's painful to see them post.
Wow so im not the only one that has hit a beer bottle with my knife edge. I'll never forget the first "high-quality expensive knife" I bought. I had just unboxed a Protech Malibu in 3v steel. Opened a beer as I always do sitting down to fidget with my new toy. As I hit the button lock to throw the blade closed it came right down on the top of the beer bottle. Didn't break the bottle but put a nice gouge on the edge. Being new to knife collecting not knowing how to sharpen yet, at $270 it literally made me sick! 😂 What's that tell you about protech 3v!? Supp to be grade A super steel toughness right?. 🤷♂️
Good steel can still suck if it has a bad heat treat or if it was burned at the edge in sharpening. None of the manufacturers are doing a very good job with 3V. Almost everyone uses the secondary hardening hump that was developed for tool and die work where minimizing part growth and dimensional changes was a key concern and that is not a very good heat treat for a knife edge. But it's the most common by far
@@NateAIM That was my thought was burnt edge, considering Protechs reputation, but I'm just a knife nut consumer so idk.. thanks for the reply! Just subbed and will own one of your knives soon! Very impressive. I've been wanting my first good fixed blade beater/chopper.
I've always wondered what an optimized HT of yours would result in if you ever tuned one for 1V or S7. I'd definitely buy anything you made! Hell, I already do! Your D3V is downright incredible.
You should have stated the hardness and if the dents were chips or rolls. Not sure those nails are very consistent. Also we're living in a world were 18dps (36 degrees total angle) is considered a narrow edge... Oh well. I'll assume the Busses rolled but if it was harder it could probably have made it with less damage. Also staining is kind of a theoretical problem, unless you live on a fishing boat or something alloyed steels like 3v are stain resistant enough. At the moment my go to steel is 3v. It's not even my favorite, too much wear resistance for my liking and I have always thought it tends to chip (small chips that is), but it's still very good and it's far easier to find (and cheaper) than stuff like A8mod, Calmax...
What do you do where you need that much toughness. I have EDC'ed with M4 for something like 15 years now and I have never had chipping issues and my current stuff is up at 66Rc. Try running something in this high hardness group and run it hard and see what you think. I had chipping issues with lots of softer knives but it stopped once I started with M4. They only downside is that citrus will dull it a bit and Magnacut that's not going to happen.
I was cutting drywall with a 3v Benchmade puuko and got a small chip. I later went to a mora in 12c27 and got slightly bigger chips. How does m4 do cutting drywall? FYI I personally stained a blade in magnacut. Luckily, it only stained, but it was not on purpose.
@@stormiewutzke4190 I have heard people complain about CPM M4 being very hard to finish. Kind of like Cru Forge V but maybe worse. I found the CPM through the year that 60 Rc range was actually easier to handle finish than CFV at 61-62
Seems like delta 3v is a no brainer still. Joe X on TH-cam wants to get one of your delta 3v Knives to destroy. Do you have anything laying around that you could send him?
It looked like you nailed the secret sauce (pun intended) for Magnacut heat treatment. Went to your site and really liked your designs, but only saw 3V. While 3V is renowned for its toughness, I was curious to see what you were doing in Magnacut? From the different TH-cams, it appears that Magnacut is difficult to consistently work with. Will you be making a 5" in Magnacut?
Ideally nobody is ever in a situation they need to cut chains or bolts with a knife, but I guess in a pinch thats impressive. I admit I have on occasion use my tougher knives to puncture pour spouts or breathing holes into steel cans if I can find a good can opener. Even s30v holds up for this type of task though.
Man I don't know exactly what he did but I recently bought a Medford Bonfire in 3v and this thing has a massively thick 7.5mm bladestock although I could have done without the hollow grind but it came with a relatively thick behind the edge bevel so I laid it back a bit and slightly convexed it by hand on diamond plates and wow it became a decent chopper and feathersticker while still being able to cut a 16penny nail then cleanly slice paper that was the first time I'd gotten a knife to do that and take almost no damage at all while still being a good performer I mean anybody can put a nail chop edge on a blade but can it also perform well in other tasks after chopping the nail?
We use it (V4E) at around HRC 64 with something similar to the Delta protocol on our competition chopper race knives and we win most of the cutting competitions we attend. We won the national championship with it this year.
Yes, that's true. We normally run 20 DPS, which has a good balance of cutting ability and durability in the materials we use, but I have been using 18 DPS while doing heat treat development work because it makes differences in edge stability more obvious to see.
I have a TOPS UTE in 1095 that has surprised me with how good TOPS heat treat is. I have several 1095 knives and the TOPS is in a whole different league.
Great video Nathan. It would be nice if you can throw in AEBL next time heat treated to the same hardness to MC. It would be interesting to see how they compare once they both pass 62.
I agree, I just posted this same thing. I've dropped my balisongs from just stupid heights and they never take damage. It doesn't stay sharp long (which is great on balisongs) but no one ever tests it against 3V.
How thick do you need to run those to do a nail? I might not have it perfect but when I tried with my 3V blades and I got damage. I usually do kitchen knives and like thin edges. I am making some bigger knives and I am leaving the edge .015"
Also what is the name of your knife company?
Carothers Performance Knives
The clue is in the channel title.
@@twatmunro lol
Dutch Bushcraft Knives also covered one of their knives: th-cam.com/video/1caUlwPxRfQ/w-d-xo.html
@@NateAIM LMAO
that last test with the Delta 3V is truly impressive.
To me the Delta 3V would be the choice for a chopper or "survival" type knife (e.g. one that will be abused) so long as corrosion isn't a priority (ocean) and the Magnacut for slicing, wood working, normal bushcrafting, light batoning, kitchen use, or anything else that doesn't involve gross abuse. I believe the Magnacut is going to have slightly better edge retention most of the time with superior corrosion resistance, and the Delta 3V is going to be tougher.
Nate is the Bob Ross of the knife industry. Keep making those happy little carbides fellas!!!
HAHAHAHA.....
Dr. Larris Thomas, the inventor of Magnacut steel, said in an interview that the number one factor affecting knife performance is edge geometry. Understanding the intended use of a knife is important to apply an edge geometry that will optimize performance. Larrin said that a knife that might not seem very good can be made better by modifying the edge geometry.
And magnacut is designed to have great edge retention when grinding thinner than usual. A hollow ground blade with a 15 thou edge before sharpening and convex edge in magnacut would cut the bolt fine....
I have to agree, you can make a supernice chisel in carbon steel that cut wood like butter, but one knot and the edge is gone. Grind it another way and you can cut aluminium. Or that is my experience anywas...
He sure did say that.
But you also can just print Magnacut on the blade and the main task called sales is completed. Most of the people type "Magnacut" "D2" "S30V" "ZDP189" or something into the search engine and decide on what looks most military and badass. Marketing. Nothing more.
What an excellent example of the importance of heat treating as much as the steel type for specific designs and uses. Thanks for the data points! Have a great week.
One of your Delta 3V just went to the top of my wish list! Outstanding!
I've never, EVER seen a knife cut thru "chain" that thick, or any chain!!! I, am impressed!!!
Subscribed too!
That CPM 3V is just... holy crap. 🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
Seriously. Its there perfect steel for a fixed blade.
S5@@Maroco918
@@Maroco918 bah....there's plenty more tougher and 2 that are stainless and just as tough if not tougher
That's a really fascinating comparison! The Delta 3V steel in particular is astonishingly resilient. However, my kitchen knives will certainly never be used to cut any bolts or chains. I look forward to eventually adding a magnacut blade to my arsenal.
Would like to see a comparison of edge retention between your heat treat and the standard heat treats for magnacut. Also thanks for the video. I enjoyed watching it.
i'll just leave a like and a comment to support your work and that you destroyed your own knives that you worked on and did an effort on them. I respect that you have balls to do this only to show us, thanks.
I am sitting here awestruck! I mean completely flabbergasted! A knife cutting a nail and virtually unscathed afterwards floored me…but a chain…🤯🤯🤯!!! I just know, without searching, it will make me seem poor; so I won’t look. AMAZING!!!
Thank you
This mighty blade could cut through Satan's dark soul if it wanted to. It is truly a blade forged by celestial power!
You may want to look into them. While they are more expensive than something made by Ontario or Kabar (who in my opinion make some pretty good knives in their price range) Carothers knives are in the same price range as other higher end brands using much lesser steels when you purchase directly from CPK. The secondary market can be horrifying though. In other words, yeah they're pricey but worth it. And not so pricey that your average working person can't save up for one within a reasonable amount of time by saving a few dollars regularly on this or that. From Carothers. Not on the secondary market. Scalpers gonna scalp.
Very impressive! It's great when a knife designer like yourself has their heat-treat dialed in to such high-performance levels.
You should link your knives so people can go and buy some. Pretty impressive. Great video
Came over from BF. Great video! Thank you! Great to see some common blade steels compared to your heat treat.
Excellent info, Nathan - another example of why CPK is a cut above. Thanks for sharing this.
Above what?
That green one cut the nail very nicely imo
he gives off Bob Ross vibes except with knives
"Happy knives, we're making happy knives" 😅
I don't really care about stainlessness. I've used carbon steel kitchen knives for over forty years now. They don't rust and I can get a fantastic edge on them. If I could get a better edge on stainless, I've never found stainless gave me any better edge retention, the patina isn't a problem -- they 'grey' rather than rust here in the damp (but not humid) UK and the edge is both fantastic and easy to sharpen.
so glad i found this video again!... been trying to find it for ages!
Just goes to show what a great heat treat can do for a knife. There's so much focus on just the blade steel a knife might have but other attributes such as heat treat, edge angle, thickness behind the edge all matter just as much in the overall execution in creating a great knife.
Amen to that. Edge geometry and heat treatment are often just an afterthought with many makers I see. The best premium steel can be atrocious with a bad heat treatment or bad edge geometry.
Some guy on Blade Forums was trying to say that the Delta Heat Treat was just a marketing scam. Personally, I think he's talking out of his ring piece, but it is what it is. Any blade that can slice through a chain that thick without taking a chip or major damage is a big win! Great job Carothers!
@@beowulf_of_wall_st It's all about choice and what your personal needs are. Do you use your blades hard? Do you baby them? So many steels, so many choices. You decide what YOU need. Personally, I am glad that the option is available.
He's just mad he can't afford one. I saw that post too lol
Nah, it's just a damn good heat treatment meant for knives and not industrial tool use. Using primary hardening instead of secondary makes for better corrosion resistance and other stuff. Getting the ideal austenite, temper, and cryo or not combo takes time to dial in. The best knife makers are the ones that Todo torture tests to make sure their heat treat is up to snuff.
I love my 440c and my D2 blade knives … perfect and not expensive… 😜✌️🔥🍀🍀🍀🌎🍀🍀🍀
All depends on your needs/wants. 440c and D2 doesn't have the corrosion resistance or edge retention a lot of people are looking for.
unless you need it to do anything but open a box every now and then👁️🫁👃🫦👄🦶🏼🦾🦾🦾🫲✍️
@@isaiahmountford5815Sadly. But those are EDC type knives. A small fixed blade is the true workhorse, and worthy of these steels imo. I'd have a hard time spending 250+ on a knife, but MagnaCut in a fixed blade from a local maker would do it. But really, most use super steels in their folders then pull out a Mora when they need to cut sandy carpet.. it might not hold up but it'll only be ten bucks for a new one..
Grumpy sends his love!!! Rocky is tagging along too!
Love it. Nice to hear from you guys on here.
Very impressive! Thanks for this analysis.
Just curious how aeb-l steel stacks up toughness wise. I have it on a few balisongs and it is insanely tough and stainless. It's not on the same level as 3V in edge retention, but I'm dying to see it against 3V in toughness.
Somebody with the means, time and interest needs to do this. I bet it would get plenty of views from "knife people."
Look up knive steel nerds, he has all those tests and answers
AEB-L is so low in the steel category and so far from these steels, that it's useless to compare it to them. Magnacut is WAY harder, will hold it's edge for at least 6 to 8 times more, than AEB - L, and that may sound little, but it's huge. in real use. AEB -L is one of the oldest steels, where Magnacut is the newest... It's night and day. You won't see any difference in toughness, in real use ,between any of these steels you ,mention. Literally no difference at all, other than edge retention and ease of sharpening.
@greekveteran2715 Old doesn't mean poor. Harden the AEB-L to 63 and then see what it can do. At a thinner angle it'll outcut most steels, but MagnaCut will outdo it for edge retention and similar toughness, but for more money.
@@mikafoxx2717 aeb-l can hold its edge retention against 3v ...magnacut only out performs it slightly...aebl is the same or better toughness than 3v and walks away from magnacut and is easier to sharpen than both 3v and magnacut....older steels that have been around awhile have been around for a reason
I use bolt cutters on chain but everyone is different.
Delta 3V is pretty much untouchable. Insanely tough and fairly stain resistant. Magnacut looks impressive for a fully stainless steel for sure, but can't see it being better option than the Delta 3V for overall usage.
It's sort of a coked up AEB-L, though admittedly, I'll say that I've used it only in woodworking tools. But think slicing knife with some impact testing (not twisting) and that's what woodworking will advise on in terms of knife steels.
@@daw162 "coked up AEB-L" might be one of the best descriptions of a steel I've ever come across. Kudos sir, kudos!
@@chinaskibukowski7747 It's hard to think of a short explanation of it! under the microscope, it has tiny carbides like AEB-L. it sort of wears a little longer, a little more stainless, a little more time to sharpen....
coked up :)
What's the difference between regular 3V and delta 3V?
@@MFD00MTR33 the delta part.
I'd love to see a comparison of d3v to 15v both above 63 hrc.
11:42 Amazing test starts here.
This is amazing and I didn't know how much I wanted to see this
I could watch this guy talk steel and knives all day long and after dinner too.
Questions: 1) How does regular CPM-3V compare to high carbon stainless steels, as opposed to this Delta optimized CPM-3V?
The modern super steels are great for edge retention, but are they tough as carbon st with a good HT? I know people are overly focused on edge retention.
If your talking 01, d2, 1095, yes they are infact tougher in my opinion. 3v is one of the most practical all around steels to exist in my opinion, totally under untilzed. Also another under used steel is cru wear.
That is downright impressive.
Extremely impressive fellas. Very good work.
Oh a few months back I found those radius plattens I got from you and decided to give them a try. It changed everything for me. Talk about a perfect grind for a chef's knife. I had some S35VN .140" stock. Never wanted to use it for chef's knives but now it do a flat distal taper out to the tip with a zero edges and pull the hollow up to the distal taper. Most of the contact surface is thinner than it would be on a FFG. That little bit of hollow might help with food release. The part I love is that I get the the very thin and slicy blade that is what I am doing with a chef knife but I get some weight and a very stiff blade that just feels better.
I hope you keep making those things. I have only been using them for a few months and I am Freaking out about what happens when they wear out. If there is anything else you make for grinding I don't know where to find your stuff. It was really random when I saw them up the sellers page of BF.
Great comment, thanks!
Your knives are awesome- I have a DEK 1 and UF which are fantastic and waiting on a Basic 5. My knife buying has about stopped except for yours and Joe Watson.
Ultra impressed by that delta 3v. I imagine it’s crazy expensive for a knife made with the stuff but I’ll definitely want one at some point.
I love magnacut. Have a chef knife at 64 hrc i dropped edge first into stone tile. The chef knife is screaming thin and chiped the stone tile... barely any edge damage and 5 minutes on a 300 stone to get it back to new.
Also have a outdoor blade in my own design at 63 hrc thats pretty thin and ive banged it trough two by fours and cuts loads of cardboard and plastic glued foam stuff. Still push cut free standing magasine paper after that.
Chef knife is 10 per side outdoor 15 per side
Myself dislike thick blades performance thin blades is my realm of blades and magnacut is a steel you can go thin with plenty tough silly stainless and good edge retention what more could you want
@@JREwing-se2wk i cant afford to buy anything with my current economical situation. Geometry makes all the difference like my mate aaron johnson showed he cut a nail with a sharpend butter knife
I am into thin and slicy knives too. I am using M4 at 66Rc and it does well down in the 6-8 degrees range. Have you ever tried it or plan on pushing Magnacut up there. I want to try it but I have lot of knives to finish and since my dewer is broken it's expensive to heat treat for a single blade so I need to run some batches so it's worth spending $50 on LN. I'm chasing what will hold up at higher hardness to support the edge and still do a quality edge. I wish Larrin would do something like a non stainless version and see if it could be pushed harder. I really want to see how 68Rc cuts.
@@stormiewutzke4190 i am not a knifemaker so no i havent.
Excellent video Nathan, very informative, can’t wait for my field knife in delta 3V to arrive! 😀
Well, this is new to me. I love knives, metallurgy, and heat treating methods. I find it very fascinating. Awesome!
Given how impressive Magnacut is, I would not be surprised to see stainless steels performing on par with steels like 3V in 10 years.
Aeb-l = 3v
Holy smokes! Cutting the chain with such little damage is remarkable!!!!
Let's get that CPK FK2 in Magnacut cranked out! Yeah, buddy!
Many indestructible knives are too thick to cut well. Will a steel upgrade led to a thin knife that won't break?
That first magnacut blade did as well as the infi, surprising.
I can't wait to pick-up a few of your knives!
Ok, take my money! You just earned it!😁
good video but audio volume is very low
So, a little longer soak time for the Magnacut. Thank you for that tidbit. Are you using LN or dry ice? I imagine with lower austenitization temps. the dry ice is sufficient because retained austenite doesn't seem to be as big of an issue with this steel.
Right on man. Best wishes with the Magnacut. Hopefully here soon I'll own 2 knives from you - the other being a 3V model.
Best way to purchase one?
@@nv854
Bladeforums
I appreciate what Larin has done with magnacut. I have a few knives in it. But man do I love some delta 3V. Unfortunately I only have one of your knives because they literally sell out in 2 seconds on blade forums. Haha. And for those that don’t know… I mean LITERALLY sell out in 2 seconds. Haha
You can find them used sometimes on the forums too. I haven't been on that forum since the general section knows nothing about heat treatment. It's painful to see them post.
I have Carothers knives in D3V and aebl and they nail the HT on both of these steels. One of the best fixed blades around.
I'd like to add that aebl is very underrated in larger blades.
There's a video on TH-cam of a Buck 119 in 420 HC chopping through a nail with minimal damage too. Buck just does excellent heat treating.
Nice video, enjoyed it. And yes, the chain cutting was awesome!🐒
What watch are you wearing? I really like it
Hello! I’m a big fan of your work and was wondering if you can do a demonstration with cutting bone? Thank you!
Your Delta 3V is amazing!
Wow so im not the only one that has hit a beer bottle with my knife edge. I'll never forget the first "high-quality expensive knife" I bought. I had just unboxed a Protech Malibu in 3v steel. Opened a beer as I always do sitting down to fidget with my new toy. As I hit the button lock to throw the blade closed it came right down on the top of the beer bottle. Didn't break the bottle but put a nice gouge on the edge. Being new to knife collecting not knowing how to sharpen yet, at $270 it literally made me sick! 😂
What's that tell you about protech 3v!? Supp to be grade A super steel toughness right?. 🤷♂️
Good steel can still suck if it has a bad heat treat or if it was burned at the edge in sharpening. None of the manufacturers are doing a very good job with 3V. Almost everyone uses the secondary hardening hump that was developed for tool and die work where minimizing part growth and dimensional changes was a key concern and that is not a very good heat treat for a knife edge. But it's the most common by far
@@NateAIM That was my thought was burnt edge, considering Protechs reputation, but I'm just a knife nut consumer so idk.. thanks for the reply! Just subbed and will own one of your knives soon! Very impressive. I've been wanting my first good fixed blade beater/chopper.
I've always wondered what an optimized HT of yours would result in if you ever tuned one for 1V or S7. I'd definitely buy anything you made! Hell, I already do! Your D3V is downright incredible.
S5
Damn, that 3V is impressive!
You should have stated the hardness and if the dents were chips or rolls.
Not sure those nails are very consistent.
Also we're living in a world were 18dps (36 degrees total angle) is considered a narrow edge... Oh well.
I'll assume the Busses rolled but if it was harder it could probably have made it with less damage.
Also staining is kind of a theoretical problem, unless you live on a fishing boat or something alloyed steels like 3v are stain resistant enough.
At the moment my go to steel is 3v. It's not even my favorite, too much wear resistance for my liking and I have always thought it tends to chip (small chips that is), but it's still very good and it's far easier to find (and cheaper) than stuff like A8mod, Calmax...
S the Delta 3V neither chipped nor rolled even with the bolt test?
What do you do where you need that much toughness. I have EDC'ed with M4 for something like 15 years now and I have never had chipping issues and my current stuff is up at 66Rc. Try running something in this high hardness group and run it hard and see what you think. I had chipping issues with lots of softer knives but it stopped once I started with M4. They only downside is that citrus will dull it a bit and Magnacut that's not going to happen.
I was cutting drywall with a 3v Benchmade puuko and got a small chip. I later went to a mora in 12c27 and got slightly bigger chips.
How does m4 do cutting drywall?
FYI I personally stained a blade in magnacut. Luckily, it only stained, but it was not on purpose.
@@stormiewutzke4190 I have heard people complain about CPM M4 being very hard to finish. Kind of like Cru Forge V but maybe worse. I found the CPM through the year that 60 Rc range was actually easier to handle finish than CFV at 61-62
If I hadn’t seen that last test I wouldn’t have believed it.
Seems like delta 3v is a no brainer still.
Joe X on TH-cam wants to get one of your delta 3v Knives to destroy. Do you have anything laying around that you could send him?
BS. That's real world testing. I have to cut my way out of a car door at least once a week.
you deserve a nobel prize
...my kingdom for one of those delta 3v blades...love to show that off on my own channel! ❤
Came here for the Magnacut info but got more intrigued by your MIDO watch, had to google it, is it a Ocean Star? What model? Looks the part!
It looked like you nailed the secret sauce (pun intended) for Magnacut heat treatment. Went to your site and really liked your designs, but only saw 3V. While 3V is renowned for its toughness, I was curious to see what you were doing in Magnacut? From the different TH-cams, it appears that Magnacut is difficult to consistently work with. Will you be making a 5" in Magnacut?
What is the rust performance and how easy is it to sharpen that last Delta 3V knife.
I super wish you made folders. I live in California and fixed blade carry here is annoying. I'd instantly buy a folder from you.
incredible performance from those steels
Ideally nobody is ever in a situation they need to cut chains or bolts with a knife, but I guess in a pinch thats impressive.
I admit I have on occasion use my tougher knives to puncture pour spouts or breathing holes into steel cans if I can find a good can opener. Even s30v holds up for this type of task though.
I would love to see other tools use Magnacut, like screwdrivers, wrench jaws, sawsall blades, and other high demand tools that might get wet
I should own a 3V like that for breaking down large tish and of meat with bones. Impressive stuff, far beyond what most of my knives can do.
Man I don't know exactly what he did but I recently bought a Medford Bonfire in 3v and this thing has a massively thick 7.5mm bladestock although I could have done without the hollow grind but it came with a relatively thick behind the edge bevel so I laid it back a bit and slightly convexed it by hand on diamond plates and wow it became a decent chopper and feathersticker while still being able to cut a 16penny nail then cleanly slice paper that was the first time I'd gotten a knife to do that and take almost no damage at all while still being a good performer I mean anybody can put a nail chop edge on a blade but can it also perform well in other tasks after chopping the nail?
Video or it didn’t happen bro that’s a bold claim
I dream of owning one of these fine blades Sir.
Wish you would have tried the original magna on the bolt like the other two treated?
Hey man where can I buy that super field knife?
what metal of these offers highest edge retention while maintaining a sturdy toughness for bushcrafting?
Would like to get a Japanese style deba made from that CPM 3V.
Really impressive results. What about S35VN?
Very impressive. Keep up the hard work.
Great tests! FYI - Mark wasn't pronouncing "Richtig" correctly. :))
curious as to how to the goat steel v4e would go with a delta heat treat
We use it (V4E) at around HRC 64 with something similar to the Delta protocol on our competition chopper race knives and we win most of the cutting competitions we attend. We won the national championship with it this year.
@@NateAIM will u use V4E on other knives as i believe and your results prove it as the best overall steel
Thanks for the video.
But why sharpened to 18 degrees?
Isn't that an angle that you would use for kitchen knives.
Yes, that's true. We normally run 20 DPS, which has a good balance of cutting ability and durability in the materials we use, but I have been using 18 DPS while doing heat treat development work because it makes differences in edge stability more obvious to see.
I'm gonna look you up. Very nice knives. Thanks for the video.
All I do in the out doors no need for a Super (hard to sharpen) Steel.
Probably is a great steel but can you sharpen it on a sand stone in the field?
Impressive. I saw someone do this with the Ontario TAK1 (older 1095 stamped version) and no damage to steel. So I got one.
I have a TOPS UTE in 1095 that has surprised me with how good TOPS heat treat is. I have several 1095 knives and the TOPS is in a whole different league.
Curious what all the edge thicknesses were
Great video Nathan. It would be nice if you can throw in AEBL next time heat treated to the same hardness to MC. It would be interesting to see how they compare once they both pass 62.
I agree, I just posted this same thing. I've dropped my balisongs from just stupid heights and they never take damage. It doesn't stay sharp long (which is great on balisongs) but no one ever tests it against 3V.
@@Old_School69 "stupid heights" needs it's appropriate reply "heights stupid"
@AR9fy wtf does that mean?
what was the hardness on the two magnacut samples you had?
What is the best blade material for a camping knife?
My buddy: hay can I borrow your knife.
Me: sure
What he does with it: 9:19
You mean @ 12:12
Was that a Busse I saw?
How do I buy one of your knives? I went on the website and I wasn't able to buy one and never received a email back?
Delta CPM 3V ictorious! 😲😲😲
How thick do you need to run those to do a nail? I might not have it perfect but when I tried with my 3V blades and I got damage. I usually do kitchen knives and like thin edges. I am making some bigger knives and I am leaving the edge .015"
I've used a GersH 940 blade in magnacut to scrape rust of this no problems.
Okay so how do I get a 3.3" fixed blade with the Delta 3V? Lol