I rebuilt mine on our 1927 Buick, ordered a rebuild kit and cleaned everything out and did the rebuild! Was easy, worked the first time I installed it on the car.
The first vacuum canister I worked with was on a 1929 Packard. Your "switching valve" is likely going to open a vacuum port and close a fresh air vent when the float is down (To draw in fuel). When it raises up, the vacuum port closes and a vent port opens (to stop fuel flow from the tank). The lower port is the fuel supply to the carburetor. Any vacuum leaks will make it not work correctly and is the most common cause of fault. Looking good!
When I did mine I tested it with the vacuum cleaner which worked really well but I then realised if it had leaked petrol through the vacuum valve the vacuum cleaner would have blown up. It has been reliable since installed though recommend a tap on the outlet so you can turn it off when you stop other wise if there is a drip in the carburettor it will drain the vacuum tank and you will need to prime it for the next start, which is just a matter of removing the plug on the top and poring in a bit of petrol. Looking forward to seeing it going.
You probably know by now but one of the fittings on top goes to the manifold for vacuum and one just goes to the atmosphere. The big one on top goes to the fuel line. When the manifold vacuum is on it sucks gas from the tank in the back into the upper chamber. When the vacuum is off, the fuel in the upper chamber drains into the lower chamber by gravity and the atmosphere has to get in. The lower chamber never has any vacuum. That lower chamber drains to the carb by gravity.
Nice. My vacuum tank is bypassed right now. And I can see where someone did a dodgey repair on the bottom of mine. I think mine will end up being rusted out through the bottom.
Since this rebuild I have read a couple period shop manuals. This is really an effective way to pull the fuel up to the carb. I would suggest watching for one and convert it back when you get the chance.
@@RMphy89 I have a '29 Hupmobile that has one that has been bypassed. Just took it off to check/rebuild. Did the one you got work or did you have to rebuild it? Just wondering if there is a rebuild kit that can be used or if just a really good cleaning and no vacuum leaks will make it work? Thanx.
Mine was rebuilt, Tom Meyers Built it for Me! So I know it`s good, But I am not getting fuel into it! It seems like the engine is not pulling a vacuum, Is their a trick in timing these Cars, To get things working correctly! My Car is a 1925 Dodge, I have to prime the pump before I can run it, Then it drains out, The Car stops dead! AGRAVATING as Hell! I believe I have Carburetor issues as well! My 25 Chevrolet has the same pump, And it works very well!
Check your wiper vacuum line, that is where my leak was on our 1927 Buick. Also check to make sure the fuel pick up is sealing properly to the fuel tank itself. As soon as I fixed my vacuum leak at my wiper I’ve had zero issues since! Also, in this video he used two cork gaskets, I only used one and had good luck this way. It’s been four years since I rebuilt the S&W Vacuum tank and it works flawlessly now.
I rebuilt mine on our 1927 Buick, ordered a rebuild kit and cleaned everything out and did the rebuild! Was easy, worked the first time I installed it on the car.
These pumps are very simple! The little pin is Your vent hole! I have never had issues with these pumps, Until I Restored My 1925 Dodge! SHEEEEESE!
The first vacuum canister I worked with was on a 1929 Packard. Your "switching valve" is likely going to open a vacuum port and close a fresh air vent when the float is down (To draw in fuel). When it raises up, the vacuum port closes and a vent port opens (to stop fuel flow from the tank). The lower port is the fuel supply to the carburetor. Any vacuum leaks will make it not work correctly and is the most common cause of fault. Looking good!
When I did mine I tested it with the vacuum cleaner which worked really well but I then realised if it had leaked petrol through the vacuum valve the vacuum cleaner would have blown up. It has been reliable since installed though recommend a tap on the outlet so you can turn it off when you stop other wise if there is a drip in the carburettor it will drain the vacuum tank and you will need to prime it for the next start, which is just a matter of removing the plug on the top and poring in a bit of petrol. Looking forward to seeing it going.
You probably know by now but one of the fittings on top goes to the manifold for vacuum and one just goes to the atmosphere. The big one on top goes to the fuel line. When the manifold vacuum is on it sucks gas from the tank in the back into the upper chamber. When the vacuum is off, the fuel in the upper chamber drains into the lower chamber by gravity and the atmosphere has to get in. The lower chamber never has any vacuum. That lower chamber drains to the carb by gravity.
Nice. My vacuum tank is bypassed right now. And I can see where someone did a dodgey repair on the bottom of mine. I think mine will end up being rusted out through the bottom.
Since this rebuild I have read a couple period shop manuals. This is really an effective way to pull the fuel up to the carb. I would suggest watching for one and convert it back when you get the chance.
RollingHistory Yes, I’ve heard the same. That will definitely be in my ‘26s future.
RollingHistory I just bought one. Going to convert it during quarantine.
@@RMphy89 I have a '29 Hupmobile that has one that has been bypassed. Just took it off to check/rebuild. Did the one you got work or did you have to rebuild it? Just wondering if there is a rebuild kit that can be used or if just a really good cleaning and no vacuum leaks will make it work? Thanx.
That's not a needle valve, it's just to line up the float and keep it from rocking around.
Hello, where did you buy the replacement gaskets?
Myers early dodge in michigan
Mine was rebuilt, Tom Meyers Built it for Me! So I know it`s good, But I am not getting fuel into it! It seems like the engine is not pulling a vacuum, Is their a trick in timing these Cars, To get things working correctly! My Car is a 1925 Dodge, I have to prime the pump before I can run it, Then it drains out, The Car stops dead! AGRAVATING as Hell! I believe I have Carburetor issues as well! My 25 Chevrolet has the same pump, And it works very well!
You probably have a leak in your gaskets. I got rid of the cork gaskets and used rubber. Any leak in the gaskets and you will have no vacuum
Check your wiper vacuum line, that is where my leak was on our 1927 Buick. Also check to make sure the fuel pick up is sealing properly to the fuel tank itself. As soon as I fixed my vacuum leak at my wiper I’ve had zero issues since! Also, in this video he used two cork gaskets, I only used one and had good luck this way. It’s been four years since I rebuilt the S&W Vacuum tank and it works flawlessly now.
I want to convert mine what are the alternative can anyone please tell me