The second you find a single leaking pipe like that, make sure you do the math to see how old your home is. If it's around 50 years old, then prepare yourself for a major plumbing overhaul sooner than later! I had so many pin hole leaks in a 6 month span, before ripping it all out and finding even MORE UNSEEN leaks inside some of the walls. When my house was built, they saw fit to use Type-M lines nearly everywhere (Use type-L!!!) The stuff I ripped out was paper thin. The 3/4 " Type-M runs were so thin that I could crush the scrap in my bare hand. It was like a slightly more rigid tin foil. Goodluck to all you DIYers out there! You can do it!
I have mostly copper, but everytime i call a plumber they splice in pex…isnt cooper better, plastic leached chemicals into the water?? I drink my faucet water..
I just had to do this under the house. I opened up two outside faucets on the house and used compressed air to force excess water out of the pipes. Worked great. Didn't have to cut pipe, just unsoldered it.
Nice job. Yes there are many ways to do this job. But many of us (homeowners) don't have expensive tools to tackle a job like this one. The compress fitting in is the ideal way to go due to the proximity of the wood subfloor. By avoiding a potential fire. I just wish the prices of these professional tools would come down . Great video. Because you showed us different alternatives to the way to go. Great video. Thanks . May God bless you and your beautiful family.
The price of tools are relative. "Professional" tools are made of higher quality (typically) to last under daily use. DIY homeowners might need said tool ones or twice in a lifetime. It's ridiculous to think any and everything can be made and sold for cheap to fit everyone's needs.
I’m a homeowner, I’m not going to spend $1000+ for the Milwaukee tool, poor solution. Soldering old fittings is not a good solution, even I know that. I would wait to get water out or use bread and then clean pipes and use new fittings, solder together and done. I have done this before. Soldering gets easier, the more you do it!
If you have to solder and water is bubbling through the solder when you heat up the pipe put a chunk of bread in it and quickly solder the pipe. The bread will absorb the water for the time needed to solder the pipe. Then go take of your sink air ratter ( the part where the water comes out of your faucet) and turn on sink. The chunks of bread will pass through your faucet with your air ratter off. Ive done this many times in the past and actually last week when my Milwaukee force logic pro press gun broke and I couldn't get my big ass Ridgid pro press gun up in the joist spacing
Great video, it would be worth mentioning to always have a fire extinguisher next to you when soldering pipes even the pros start fires worst case a glass of water or full water bottle.
Make a cut and drain out the water into a bucket. With all the faucets open, use a shop vac with its filter removed, suck out the water in the pipe. Use MAP gas as it heats up higher. The final joint can use a compression fitting to finish.
Thanks for the video. I would say just use a 3/4 sharkbite elbow - I checked , they do sell them in Home Depot. Cut the corner out and push the pipes in the fitting. That’s the easiest . Otherwise sweat another elbow or replace the whole pipe with pex . The propress I would leave to plumbers . Sounds like to be a good solution , but seems very costly for the tools. Another thing that will work is “pipe repair cast” - wrap around and it becomes cast hard. Just make sure there are no pinhole leaks .
Never EVER use a shark bite fitting in a closed location, such as this. They are great for exposed connections (under sink, outside…), but not enclosed. Just my 2 cents.
Could you remove the fittings at the connection spot using the hydraulic pro press tool to reconfigure the layout of the pipes without damaging the pipe? The same question for commpressed ferrel fittings.
So initially did you believe there was no water in the system when you began to solder or did you continue to make the point that water will usually be present.
Great video, but what if I don’t have $1900 for the pro press tool, it would be nice if you gave some alternatives period for $1900, I can hire enough plumbers to redo the entire house. Any other suggestions?
you have to cute the failing fitting rather than the pipe in 3 different locations. you cut making sure you do not cut the pipe only the fitting, that way you can let all the water drain out. all you are left is with 3 copper rings that are much easier to remove. and if needed then you make a second cut for your sliding coupling.
Oh God. I have some kind of weird feelings about shark bite. I have used some and haven't had any problem with them but for me to rely on the "o" rings to make the seal is a little bit difficult. I'm a little bit old school and prefer solder.
@@appleztooranges. Yeah. I know, that's why I said I'm old school and prefer solder. Once you solder copper pipes you can push, pull, twist and you know that thing won't give up but I'm not short sighted, those other things might work or maybe be the same as solder but my paranoid side won't let me sleep when I install those.
That’s what I was going to suggest. A while ago I heard about the Milwaukee clamp type. But it was expensive. So the Sharkbite for a diy home owner is the way to go IMO
The image with which you open this vid, actually shows the problem of these kind of leaks. The T-joint and the 90° elbow/knee are way to close together. If you really need to put the elbow directly on the T-joint, than at the very least use an (A) version of the knee, with one side equivalent to the pipe diameter, instead the solder sleeve. That will reduce two solder joints so close together, or even butting up. Instead of a knee, you could also choose to install a 90° wide bend in the similar (A) version. Or even better, buy a pipe bender and form your copper pipe with just a slight bend, start of the bend over the heart line of the pipe it needs to cross. I bet you’ll only need a 5° angle to reach the T-joint, without any visual or technical restrictions. Hence, you can throw away the 90° fittings all together. Will improve the longevity of the installation, reduce noise, pressure drop, and chance of water hammer effects (very common in installations with tight fit knees and elbows.
While I agree the pro press is easy fast & efficient it’s also $2000 plus your fittings.Very pricy for a small job unless your investing in future repairs.Good video as always.I have learned from them.
06:47 is that green corrosion spot on the pipe further back caused by a pinhole leak? I have some spots like it on my pipes and wondering if I should fix them.
Great job on the repair. I don't have copper lines in my house, but if I did, I would definitely invest in that Milwaukee tool. It makes the job easier.
Thank you! The tool is very expensive, but it’s worth the investment if you are doing a lot of press fit work. You can definitely rent this tool on your local big box stores 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I have used the bread technique many times also. White bread works best. Put a ball of it in pipe to stop flow of` water. You have to hurry and soldier before water erodes bread and it starts leaking again. When the job is done the bread will dissolve and be expelled thru the faucet into the drain.
No . Sharkbite is fairly new on the market and used for temporary connections. The insurance companies don't like them because on several occasions they start to leak. If you install where they can be seen and in a garage where there is a floor drain then the problem will not be as severe... This is my opinion, you may have your own opinion, to each their own...
@@pasqualeparente9776 "the insurance companies dont like them" lol wtf? do you just make things up? they are code compliant so you literally just lied. Soldered fittings fail very often as any homeowner knows. On several occasions they start to leak as we see in this video. Sharkbite is more reliable. SharkBite is not new nor used for temporary connections. you are just a barrel of nonsense arent you!
@@pasqualeparente9776 wtf "fairly new"? Theyve been out for over 20 years. You living under a rock or somethin, fella? Ive not had one fail me yet, im no plumber but theyve replaced many leaking soldered connections going on 12-15 years (with no sharkbite leaks) for relatives houses. And also, several hot water tank replacements.
first of all new products are not introduced worldwide at the same time they test markets first and then they are introduced in certain store first. And if they sell well then they are available to everyone. And to clarify I stated my opinion and I have a right to my opinion. Just because you have not had any problems doesn't mean other people or plumbers have not. If you are 100% sure that they are fail proof why are they not accepted by insurance companies. They have a wider base of clients to base themselves on than just YOU.
@@pasqualeparente9776 Push-to-connect fittings have been used widely since the 80s, especially in Europe where they are still very common, probably even more so than any other water connection. It's not like they're brand new and have no track record. The reason insurance companies don't like them because they know it's usually a homeowner that would install one and there's a good chance it was installed wrong. Therefore they like when you have a licensed contractor install them instead as there's a better chance it was installed correctly. That's the problem with sharkbites. They are so easy to install but still easy to mess up if you don't properly prep the pipe and then people blame the product for failures and not installer error which is wrong in my opinion. I've never seen a properly installed sharkbite fail. Every single time it was improper installation that led to the failure. Most common being they never deburred the pipe and tore the o-ring when pushing it on which eventually led to it leaking a few years down the road and two, was never pushed on all the way. Same with soldering, same with pex, same with ProPress. If not installed correctly, it will fail prematurely. The products are great, it's the people using them wrong that's the problem.
Aluminum foil will work to a point, but actual heat shields are better. Inhave found cotton rags to be better, as the synthetic rags melt much easier. If you keep it wet you may be ok, but I prefer cotton.
When it rains I get water in the basement under the stairs, what’s some ways I could find it where the water coming from without taking the paneling down or destroying my basement walls
Most likely coming in between your slab and foundation walls although it could be coming through the wall itself. Look for the effervescence left behind to try to figure out where it's coming from. Homes built before 1995 weren't built the same way and thus weren't really waterproof. The other thing you can do is make sure you have a negative grade slope in your yard away from your house to help the water flow away from your foundation. Also check your gutters and downspouts are not clogged and working correctly
Why not drill a small hole under the leak and lowest spot on the copper tube. Then clean and resolver including the small hole you drilled to drain the water.
You sell it after using it, they have very high resale value. I got mine secondhand and it was only a few hundred dollars cheaper than brand new. Was only used once according to the guy I bought it from and it certainly looked like it was only used once. Still looked brand new. He got most of his money back and I got a basically new ProPress tool for a few hundred bucks cheaper. Win-win.
good job, but if you had cut the bend in the corner you could have drained and cleaned everything and then re-soldered it with a new bend or better a t piece with a drain facility proud to be a plumber also 😃
don't forget to get a welding blanket if you are soldering near wood and to remove the insulation. You will burn your house down if you can't control the fire.
Lol. From the thumbnail pic...I'm thinking it's a very old house. Then I see engineered joists and beams. Tip for repairs on solder....use a wet rag and wipe the hot solder to remove globs....then sand and assemble old joints.
I bought a pro-press last year with all the dies---yes you can buy the tool but its useless unless you have all the various dies for different sizes of pipe. It cost me about 4K with tax. Then you have to have the fittings which are not easily available---I have to go to hvac or plumbing suppliers for them---I have not seen them at local hardware or big box stores----not saying they don't have them- but I have not seen them. Sure its a good way to go but for a DIY repair its way beyond the price of most diy-ers. If someone could afford a propress and fittings, they would call a plumber and have them do the repair.
No1 uses pvc in the U.S. for residential, very bad quality and waste f time in labor costs. It's all copper, but all newer homes are Pex. If your using PVC, your wrong, bucko. Go with Pex. Move on from the middle ages.
Here's something to think about. PVC plastic does not like heat as in hot water. PVC plastic will leach out toxins when exposed continuously to hot water.
It seems to me that “gap” in the pipe fitting was an actual dent. This fitting should never have been used in the first place and was the reason it failed. The fix should be to replace that dented fitting, not re-solder it.
The dummy who plummed it left the acid flux on and theres your leak. Btw, Mapp gas no longer is map gas. It basicslly the same as the blue, so save your money
I just did my first plumbing job last week under the house. A few TH-cam videos about copper pipe soldering and I had a successful repair job. You can do it too.
What a simple way to fix that? Shut the water off and drain the lines. Clean the entire joint area with sand paper and steel wool, blow off dust and wipe with clean with acetone. Get some JB Welt epoxy plumbing puddy, mix it well by hand and wrap around the joint applying pressure to the leak area and over lap. Let it cure according to directions within the temp range on the packaging (near room temp). It works great with no heat or expensive compressing tools required; used it several times and never had a failure.
The title of your video is How to Fix Any Pipe Leak. And then you cut out the difficult repair and do the quick and dirty and expensive couplings involving a special tool.
Your echo in the beginning is horrendous, a little tip that’s cheap and easy to fix it is to hang a blanket in the direction you’ll be talking, ideally behind the camera if possible, this will eat a lot of the excess sound wave and prevent *as much* echo against bare walls
In what world would you call propress "DIY" ? If your a homeowner do yourself a favor and call a plumber. Also, never solder a single hub on a fitting. BTW, I would love to see that solder fitting on a pressure test
The Propress tool is $1870 - out of reach of most DIYers. One could use Sharkbite fittings in this application - no special tool needed - maybe $40 worth of fittings.
Nice job. But I believe that if you called a plumber, it would be cheaper and faster then DIYing it because of the cost of material AND that press tool.
А почему нельзя было разрезать отвод, например ножовкой или сабельной пилой или отрезной машиной и разъеденить эти трубы? Просто отвод заменить и всё. И не нужно этот соплестрой городить.
The second you find a single leaking pipe like that, make sure you do the math to see how old your home is.
If it's around 50 years old, then prepare yourself for a major plumbing overhaul sooner than later!
I had so many pin hole leaks in a 6 month span, before ripping it all out and finding even MORE UNSEEN leaks inside some of the walls.
When my house was built, they saw fit to use Type-M lines nearly everywhere (Use type-L!!!)
The stuff I ripped out was paper thin.
The 3/4 " Type-M runs were so thin that I could crush the scrap in my bare hand. It was like a slightly more rigid tin foil.
Goodluck to all you DIYers out there!
You can do it!
😮
I have mostly copper, but everytime i call a plumber they splice in pex…isnt cooper better, plastic leached chemicals into the water?? I drink my faucet water..
@@cindyk4145PEX is now the standard for home plumbing. It's flexible, cheaper, and lasts longer.
I just had to do this under the house. I opened up two outside faucets on the house and used compressed air to force excess water out of the pipes. Worked great. Didn't have to cut pipe, just unsoldered it.
Nice job its amazing how many people struggle with this idea. Compressed air is your friend
My house was built in 1987, and I got the same leaks. I used Shark bits fittings very easy procedure.
Nice job. Yes there are many ways to do this job. But many of us (homeowners) don't have expensive tools to tackle a job like this one. The compress fitting in is the ideal way to go due to the proximity of the wood subfloor. By avoiding a potential fire. I just wish the prices of these professional tools would come down . Great video. Because you showed us different alternatives to the way to go. Great video. Thanks . May God bless you and your beautiful family.
The price of tools are relative. "Professional" tools are made of higher quality (typically) to last under daily use. DIY homeowners might need said tool ones or twice in a lifetime.
It's ridiculous to think any and everything can be made and sold for cheap to fit everyone's needs.
For diy, just rent the tool. I would have used shark bite myself.
Thats how they fixed my leak, compressed fittings, pex pipe spliced into copper. Sz it wont leak…idk.
You could drill a hole in the elbow to drain the standing water and then proceeded as planned but with just a new elbow fitting.
Bingo, that is what an actual plumber would do!
I’m a homeowner, I’m not going to spend $1000+ for the Milwaukee tool, poor solution. Soldering old fittings is not a good solution, even I know that. I would wait to get water out or use bread and then clean pipes and use new fittings, solder together and done. I have done this before. Soldering gets easier, the more you do it!
That tool is over $2k. Easy diy solution! 😅
SharkBite is much better
@@cryengine_x ya if you like going back a in a couple years to fix all the water damage from said shark bite.
@@jonathanbarbosa5369You like others, don’t know how to install them properly.
White bread or whole wheat?
If you have to solder and water is bubbling through the solder when you heat up the pipe put a chunk of bread in it and quickly solder the pipe. The bread will absorb the water for the time needed to solder the pipe. Then go take of your sink air ratter ( the part where the water comes out of your faucet) and turn on sink. The chunks of bread will pass through your faucet with your air ratter off. Ive done this many times in the past and actually last week when my Milwaukee force logic pro press gun broke and I couldn't get my big ass Ridgid pro press gun up in the joist spacing
I've been doing that for years
The bread will junk up on mixing valves don't use bread. A jet sweat is what is used on an open port ball valve or a mip fitting.
Great video, it would be worth mentioning to always have a fire extinguisher next to you when soldering pipes even the pros start fires worst case a glass of water or full water bottle.
I took a spray bottle with me under the house and had to use it a few times while soldering.
I just bring with me a full bladder to pee on it if needed.
Did you ever try to drill hole in the low point to remove the last of the water?
You don’t mention the high cost of using those crimp connections. Plus what might happen in time to the O rings with different water sources
Make a cut and drain out the water into a bucket. With all the faucets open, use a shop vac with its filter removed, suck out the water in the pipe. Use MAP gas as it heats up higher. The final joint can use a compression fitting to finish.
Thanks for the video. I would say just use a 3/4 sharkbite elbow - I checked , they do sell them in Home Depot. Cut the corner out and push the pipes in the fitting.
That’s the easiest . Otherwise sweat another elbow or replace the whole pipe with pex .
The propress I would leave to plumbers . Sounds like to be a good solution , but seems very costly for the tools.
Another thing that will work is “pipe repair cast” - wrap around and it becomes cast hard. Just make sure there are no pinhole leaks .
Never EVER use a shark bite fitting in a closed location, such as this. They are great for exposed connections (under sink, outside…), but not enclosed. Just my 2 cents.
Very informative. I didn't know the trick about how many inches of solder to use.
Could you remove the fittings at the connection spot using the hydraulic pro press tool to reconfigure the layout of the pipes without damaging the pipe? The same question for commpressed ferrel fittings.
So initially did you believe there was no water in the system when you began to solder or did you continue to make the point that water will usually be present.
Great video, but what if I don’t have $1900 for the pro press tool, it would be nice if you gave some alternatives period for $1900, I can hire enough plumbers to redo the entire house. Any other suggestions?
Only other options for this situation would be Sharkbites
you have to cute the failing fitting rather than the pipe in 3 different locations. you cut making sure you do not cut the pipe only the fitting, that way you can let all the water drain out. all you are left is with 3 copper rings that are much easier to remove. and if needed then you make a second cut for your sliding coupling.
Can't live w/o those Channellock Pliers ❤️
Nice video. Although Shark Bites, push connectors are taking over the repair industry.
Good homeowner solution that will last a few years until leaking
Oh God. I have some kind of weird feelings about shark bite. I have used some and haven't had any problem with them but for me to rely on the "o" rings to make the seal is a little bit difficult.
I'm a little bit old school and prefer solder.
@@NSilver832 o rings are on pro press fittings so 🤷♂️
@@appleztooranges. Yeah. I know, that's why I said I'm old school and prefer solder. Once you solder copper pipes you can push, pull, twist and you know that thing won't give up but I'm not short sighted, those other things might work or maybe be the same as solder but my paranoid side won't let me sleep when I install those.
That’s what I was going to suggest. A while ago I heard about the Milwaukee clamp type. But it was expensive. So the Sharkbite for a diy home owner is the way to go IMO
Nice job, can this tool be rented?
Yes 👍🏽 please check in with your big box stores 🙏🏽😊
I love these videos so much! Truly helpful for the novice DIY crowd, like me and my friends. ❤
The image with which you open this vid, actually shows the problem of these kind of leaks. The T-joint and the 90° elbow/knee are way to close together. If you really need to put the elbow directly on the T-joint, than at the very least use an (A) version of the knee, with one side equivalent to the pipe diameter, instead the solder sleeve. That will reduce two solder joints so close together, or even butting up.
Instead of a knee, you could also choose to install a 90° wide bend in the similar (A) version.
Or even better, buy a pipe bender and form your copper pipe with just a slight bend, start of the bend over the heart line of the pipe it needs to cross. I bet you’ll only need a 5° angle to reach the T-joint, without any visual or technical restrictions. Hence, you can throw away the 90° fittings all together. Will improve the longevity of the installation, reduce noise, pressure drop, and chance of water hammer effects (very common in installations with tight fit knees and elbows.
I recycle my deli containers. Usually qt size. Then label with marking pen.
While I agree the pro press is easy fast & efficient it’s also $2000 plus your fittings.Very pricy for a small job unless your investing in future repairs.Good video as always.I have learned from them.
06:47 is that green corrosion spot on the pipe further back caused by a pinhole leak? I have some spots like it on my pipes and wondering if I should fix them.
Cold water flowing in the pipe on a hot day will condense moisture just like a glass of iced tea.
Great job on the repair. I don't have copper lines in my house, but if I did, I would definitely invest in that Milwaukee tool. It makes the job easier.
Thank you! The tool is very expensive, but it’s worth the investment if you are doing a lot of press fit work. You can definitely rent this tool on your local big box stores 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
You could cut through the elbow with a hacksaw and then soldered a new elbow in place assuming you could stop the running water.
My home is PEX but I had to watch this video lol Very nice !
I have used the bread technique many times also. White bread works best. Put a ball of it in pipe to stop flow of` water. You have to hurry and soldier before water erodes bread and it starts leaking again. When the job is done the bread will dissolve and be expelled thru the faucet into the drain.
I'm still a fan of sweating pipe. Haven't found it in me to go with pex or crimp fits.
Thanks for sharing
some ppl like to make things more difficult. you probably also still change your oil every 3k miles. very fake imo.
Soldering copper isnt for vast, vast majority of homeowners, thats why, fella.
Nice! Thanks. First time I have seen the press fittings.
It was easy to solder T-joint side up cuz gravity would help, but its original position was pointing down. That's more challenging
Agree use bread to keep the water away from the join when required
Sharkbite is definitely the way to go for this repair 👍👍
No . Sharkbite is fairly new on the market and used for temporary connections. The insurance companies don't like them because on several occasions they start to leak. If you install where they can be seen and in a garage where there is a floor drain then the problem will not be as severe... This is my opinion, you may have your own opinion, to each their own...
@@pasqualeparente9776 "the insurance companies dont like them" lol wtf? do you just make things up? they are code compliant so you literally just lied. Soldered fittings fail very often as any homeowner knows. On several occasions they start to leak as we see in this video. Sharkbite is more reliable. SharkBite is not new nor used for temporary connections. you are just a barrel of nonsense arent you!
@@pasqualeparente9776 wtf "fairly new"? Theyve been out for over 20 years. You living under a rock or somethin, fella?
Ive not had one fail me yet, im no plumber but theyve replaced many leaking soldered connections going on 12-15 years (with no sharkbite leaks) for relatives houses. And also, several hot water tank replacements.
first of all new products are not introduced worldwide at the same time they test markets first and then they are introduced in certain store first. And if they sell well then they are available to everyone. And to clarify I stated my opinion and I have a right to my opinion. Just because you have not had any problems doesn't mean other people or plumbers have not.
If you are 100% sure that they are fail proof why are they not accepted by insurance companies. They have a wider base of clients to base themselves on than just YOU.
@@pasqualeparente9776 Push-to-connect fittings have been used widely since the 80s, especially in Europe where they are still very common, probably even more so than any other water connection. It's not like they're brand new and have no track record.
The reason insurance companies don't like them because they know it's usually a homeowner that would install one and there's a good chance it was installed wrong. Therefore they like when you have a licensed contractor install them instead as there's a better chance it was installed correctly.
That's the problem with sharkbites. They are so easy to install but still easy to mess up if you don't properly prep the pipe and then people blame the product for failures and not installer error which is wrong in my opinion. I've never seen a properly installed sharkbite fail. Every single time it was improper installation that led to the failure. Most common being they never deburred the pipe and tore the o-ring when pushing it on which eventually led to it leaking a few years down the road and two, was never pushed on all the way.
Same with soldering, same with pex, same with ProPress. If not installed correctly, it will fail prematurely. The products are great, it's the people using them wrong that's the problem.
Thanks again for valuable information.
Thank you so much for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Can I leaking pipe cause the hot water to not last long enough when someone is showering?
I used a heat shield to solder 😵💫 n a space 22x35, I was nervous, my first time soldering
Please can you send the link of all your material that you used all the tools 🧰 please 🙏🏾
Of course! Here are all the items I used!
ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
PRESS FITTINGS
---------
- Propress 1/2” Copper Fitting - amzn.to/430KOHO
- Propress 1/2” (Tee) Copper Fitting - amzn.to/3G9Z0UQ
- Propress 1/2” (90-Degree) Copper Fitting - amzn.to/42ZzZpd
- Propress 3/4” Copper Fitting - amzn.to/3nEuBI0
- Propress 3/4” (Tee) Copper Fitting - amzn.to/3KsEH7y
- Propress 3/4” (90-Degree) Copper Fitting - amzn.to/3m3iEev
PIPE TOOLS
---------
- Milwaukee 2473-22 M12 Force Logic Press tool 1/2" - 1" Kit - amzn.to/3zvfl2A
- Milwaukee 3 Piece Close Quarters Pipe Cutter - amzn.to/3U4GDXp
- Copper Pipe Cleaner and Reamer Combo - amzn.to/4311D56
PIPE SOLDER TOOLS
---------
- BERNZOMATIC Trigger Start Propane Torch - amzn.to/3nz1Jkl
- BERNZOMATIC Propane Tank - amzn.to/3G9J1WW
- Plumbing Solder Kit With Flux, Solder and Acid Brush - amzn.to/3TZmKAV
- 120 Grit Emery Cloth - amzn.to/3Gb0L47
Aluminum foil will work to a point, but actual heat shields are better.
Inhave found cotton rags to be better, as the synthetic rags melt much easier. If you keep it wet you may be ok, but I prefer cotton.
Same torch for map gas
Why not use pex instead?
Great video and great information
Weld?
You did a good job, sir
Nice vidio, the problem most people don't have 2 grand for the hydraulic press.
Thank you! You can rent the tool at Home Depot or Lowe’s
thanks I'll try that@@FixThisHouse
When it rains I get water in the basement under the stairs, what’s some ways I could find it where the water coming from without taking the paneling down or destroying my basement walls
Most likely coming in between your slab and foundation walls although it could be coming through the wall itself. Look for the effervescence left behind to try to figure out where it's coming from. Homes built before 1995 weren't built the same way and thus weren't really waterproof. The other thing you can do is make sure you have a negative grade slope in your yard away from your house to help the water flow away from your foundation. Also check your gutters and downspouts are not clogged and working correctly
@@mikebevan1034 great advice and I appreciate the fast response
@@tjac4801 No worries. I'm just a fellow DIYer who watches to many youtube videos. Lol
Nicely done!
Shark 🦈 Bite type self sealing fittings . Job done!
thanks man youre a legend. and by that i mean good teacher. cheers dude
Also a good reason to wipe excess solder off is because the flux turns the copper pipe green.
Thank you for your video 👍👍👍
Thanks!
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you Vince! 🙏🏽😊
Nice repair!
After shutting off the water, i've had luck opening 2 spigots and using a shop vac to suck all the remaining water out of the pipes prior to sweating.
Great video brother man.
Why not drill a small hole under the leak and lowest spot on the copper tube. Then clean and resolver including the small hole you drilled to drain the water.
Good show
Great video! Thanks!
Awesome. Thank you
Awesome job thank you so much
The best is replacing all pipes , you save money .
DIY suggestion for a $2000+ tool? Common son! You do get points for showing the soldering 👊
Haha couldn’t agree more. Everything was great until the pro press started getting mentioned for safety / etc. not a DIY friendly post imo
You sell it after using it, they have very high resale value. I got mine secondhand and it was only a few hundred dollars cheaper than brand new. Was only used once according to the guy I bought it from and it certainly looked like it was only used once. Still looked brand new. He got most of his money back and I got a basically new ProPress tool for a few hundred bucks cheaper. Win-win.
good job, but if you had cut the bend in the corner you could have drained and cleaned everything and then re-soldered it with a new bend or better a t piece with a drain facility
proud to be a plumber also 😃
I can't find where the leak is tho 😢
Keep looking (tearing up walls), failure is not an option. The leak isnt coming from the magical water fairy.
Yea my copper pipe on kitchen sink water line was a $500 plumber repair. Now I'm replacing the drywall. :(
Coulda very eaily done it yourself with $5-10 in copper pipe and a few Sharkbite fittings ($12-25, depending on how many u need)
don't forget to get a welding blanket if you are soldering near wood and to remove the insulation. You will burn your house down if you can't control the fire.
I never thought about a welding blanket. Great tip👍
Lol. From the thumbnail pic...I'm thinking it's a very old house. Then I see engineered joists and beams. Tip for repairs on solder....use a wet rag and wipe the hot solder to remove globs....then sand and assemble old joints.
Really like the video, show you possible solution, tricks and most important why some fail, all informative, no nonsense joke and shit. Subscribed.
I bought a pro-press last year with all the dies---yes you can buy the tool but its useless unless you have all the various dies for different sizes of pipe. It cost me about 4K with tax. Then you have to have the fittings which are not easily available---I have to go to hvac or plumbing suppliers for them---I have not seen them at local hardware or big box stores----not saying they don't have them- but I have not seen them. Sure its a good way to go but for a DIY repair its way beyond the price of most diy-ers. If someone could afford a propress and fittings, they would call a plumber and have them do the repair.
$2300 is cost prohibitive for DIYer. Otherwise its sharkbites or Pex
You could have cut the lower pipe shake the water out ,re solder the fail and then solder the cut pipe with a coupler with out stop.
It must be copper pipe! In most countries pipes are of PVC. Hope you will do something with that stuff.
No1 uses pvc in the U.S. for residential, very bad quality and waste f time in labor costs. It's all copper, but all newer homes are Pex. If your using PVC, your wrong, bucko. Go with Pex. Move on from the middle ages.
Here's something to think about.
PVC plastic does not like heat as in hot water.
PVC plastic will leach out toxins when exposed continuously to hot water.
after several years the presing gets loose literally u can pull joint with hand.
7:00 good stuff
It seems to me that “gap” in the pipe fitting was an actual dent. This fitting should never have been used in the first place and was the reason it failed. The fix should be to replace that dented fitting, not re-solder it.
I still prefer solder pipe vice press fit
Thank you for sharing your thoughts 🙏🏽😊
If the flux was cleaned when fitted then there wouldn't be a problem
The dummy who plummed it left the acid flux on and theres your leak. Btw, Mapp gas no longer is map gas. It basicslly the same as the blue, so save your money
White bread, new fittings and some soldering skills. 2 dollars.
I still need more training on this, I don't get plumping at all
Please stay tuned! More videos on plumbing coming soon 👍🏽😊
I just did my first plumbing job last week under the house. A few TH-cam videos about copper pipe soldering and I had a successful repair job. You can do it too.
Thats why they change so much
By Milwaukieee 😊
Sweet
What a simple way to fix that?
Shut the water off and drain the lines.
Clean the entire joint area with sand paper and steel wool, blow off dust and wipe with clean with acetone.
Get some JB Welt epoxy plumbing puddy, mix it well by hand and wrap around the joint applying pressure to the leak area and over lap.
Let it cure according to directions within the temp range on the packaging (near room temp).
It works great with no heat or expensive compressing tools required; used it several times and never had a failure.
Fixing Ceiling Pipe Leak JB Water Weld (on TH-cam).
The title of your video is How to Fix Any Pipe Leak. And then you cut out the difficult repair and do the quick and dirty and expensive couplings involving a special tool.
Your echo in the beginning is horrendous, a little tip that’s cheap and easy to fix it is to hang a blanket in the direction you’ll be talking, ideally behind the camera if possible, this will eat a lot of the excess sound wave and prevent *as much* echo against bare walls
In what world would you call propress "DIY" ? If your a homeowner do yourself a favor and call a plumber. Also, never solder a single hub on a fitting. BTW, I would love to see that solder fitting on a pressure test
The Propress tool is $1870 - out of reach of most DIYers. One could use Sharkbite fittings in this application - no special tool needed - maybe $40 worth of fittings.
They say the o ring for pro pess will last 50 years. O rings dont last 50 years. Acetaline is the best soldering torch to solder not weld.
Good video till the propress comes out.
If you don’t have this tool, you have to use other methods
Para que muestra tanto si al final solo uso una máquina fácil de usar 😂😂😂😂
I would have installed shark bite
Nice job. But I believe that if you called a plumber, it would be cheaper and faster then DIYing it because of the cost of material AND that press tool.
Don't waste money on mapp gas, propane is plenty hot
А почему нельзя было разрезать отвод, например ножовкой или сабельной пилой или отрезной машиной и разъеденить эти трубы? Просто отвод заменить и всё. И не нужно этот соплестрой городить.
Ok
Dude l1ess than 10 minute fix.....cut pipes , and pex it. Simple,effective,and code.
Press fittings are the only way to go
A licensed plumber burnt the joist on my ceiling…all black! Guess he didnt know the tinfoil trick..
He could have used some fire resistant cloth as well.