My amp only has a preset LFE, but I want a Rythmik sub, and all the literature I can find says that you have to control the Rythmik's crossover and phase through the amp when using LFE. This looks like it will be the perfect solution for me while I save up for a better replacement. Thanks for sharing.
I had a similar problem but I just used two rca splitters on my dac output so set goes to the amp and the other to my active sub. It seems to work fine.
You just split your voltage in half, sounds like it worked fine for you but it could cause problems for some setups where you might run out of volume too early.
So, funny story. I was doing the same using two y splitters from my preamp output, with one set of RCA outs going to my power amp, and the other set going through another y-splitter backwards to join them into a single sub RCA, which is what my powered sub required. I just couldn't figure out why my left/right fader wasn't working properly on the preamp. Then I realized, I created a loop in the RCAs, playing both channels through both speakers. I was wondering why my soundstage was totally flat!
Question: Is there a risk of damaging the amp/sub? A couple of posts on ASR say: "There are many amps that operate in BTL mode, so both speaker terminals are outputting half the signal each. In this case you don't want to connect the black terminal to the RCA ring / ground with the risk of the audio pixies sending up the emergency smoke signals." I think a lot of digital amps work this way internally. I understand some line converters have this issue, others don't. I can find no specs on most of them.
If you set the gain to high yes you can damage things . My advise is look at the voltage range of your subwoofers low level input. And then use a test time and a multimeter and set the gains to give you the voltage output on the loc to to safely set gains.
Yeah, there are some different designs but I expect anyone with a n on standard amp to know the difference, I also expect manufacturers to mark those terminals blue instead of black which is what they're supposed to do. Black denots ground, if its not ground and instead hot 180 then it should be blue.
Just got one of these and a Rolls SX-95 for level and crossover control, so that I could combine L/R signal with LFE signal to the two RCA inputs on my SVS SB16. I get that sounds crazy at first, but I want a way to use my sub when running the receiver in direct mode. Direct mode is critical for stereo playback on receivers because they all resample digital sources to 48khz before processing bass management, and even worse, for analog signals, they use garbage A/D conversion to add bass management, then convert back to analog, and a lot of sound quality is lost. My receiver does not have individual channel line-outs, so I couldn't use those to source the L/R signal to the sub. So the goal was to use old-school speaker-level to RCA conversion for L/R and maintain the LFE RCA input when watching surround sources. I need to play with it more, but I have found some mild phase issues as the L/R source blends with any LFE or bass-managed signal on the LFE input. Playing with phase on the Rolls and with speaker distance settings in the receiver has helped a bit. Also, with the scosche and Rolls plugged into the sub, the sub will never turn off, meaning there's some kind of interference or inaudible hum that is confusing the sub into thinking there's a signal. Definitely some kinks to work out. Eventually, I will upgrade my receiver to something with full line level outputs, but working with what I have for now. I'll do anything to avoid the dreaded resample. Direct sounds worlds better, I just need my bass, too!
Thank you for this - I bought the LOC80 (it was only $10) to connect a sub with line level inputs only to a vintage NAD receiver. The receiver has the old spring-loaded speaker connectors, and "A" and "B" speaker connections. Would it be better to wrap the wires of the LOC80 around my existing speaker wire within the spring loaded clip, or use the LOC80 with the "B" speaker connectors on its own and use the "A+B" speaker output option? Thanks again - enjoy all your videos
Great tip! If my subwoofer only has 1 RCA input, should I only use 1 RCA out of the LOC, or combine the signals from the LOC into 1 for my sub??? thanks!
Great informative video! I have a vintage 70’s sansui 661, 2 channels. I have speakers on A and B channels. Can I add this to one of the channels already being used for speakers .
yes absolutely, as long as that set is active, like if you connect this to the B Set you cannot have the knob set to A set only for example but it's totally okay to plug this into the same terminals that speakers are going to, that's how most people would connect this.
@@NemoPropagandathank you so much! I am getting my old system up and running after 20 years dormant. I’m using my old refurbished receiver and old pioneer pl-12D turntable that I also refurbished, adding new Klipsch speakers and a subwoofer. I’m trying to catch up on the new stuff out there, and your channel is a huge help. In the mean time, I’m doing a lot of record cleaning!
Great video nemo I have a tube amplifier that I adore but it'd a purist piece with no sub out and this method will allow me umto use a sub with that amp so thank you
I have this product. And my subwoofer sound fantastic. But Having phase issues with the rest of my system. Still playing around with it I will give you an update
Super valuable video thanks a lot i wanna ask you i found a divice like this in video but they say max input 50w but my amplifier out is 100w will be this problem?
I used it with the CHoco amp thats 135w/channel and it was fine, you'll rarely be outputting the max power of your amplifier. But if you're really cranking the volume always and you know you'll be exceeding the desigin limitations of the product for sure then it might be best to just sell what you have and buy an amp with sub-out or pre-outs instead or find another solution.
Hi, relatively new in the audio enthusiast hobby and I was wondering if that solution would allow the subwoofer volume level to be synchronized with the speakers volume level. (you mention high level, maybe this is what it is ?..) Thank you for any insight...
I have a couple of mark 4 dynaco mono block amps, I am building a 6sn7 tube preamp would this product be suitable to add to the preamp output for a sub woofer?
I have an RS 202 , and Micca MB42X. Will I be able to connect an Edifier T5 subwoofer using the LOC80? If yes, does the RCA cables go in Line In of the subwoofer or Line Out? I know its a stupid question
Do you think I can use this on a vintage receiver to use my B channel speaker wires, then using the RCA outputs on the loc80 to convert to LFE and use that to plug into a powered subwoofer? In other words, use the loc80 into a powered LFE subwoofer?
I'm not sure I fully understand the question but the LOC80 only transmits signal, not power. You can use it to add a sub-out to your b set or a set, doesn't matter.
@@NemoPropaganda thank you for the reply and sorry I wasn’t very clear. I understand how the loc80 works, I guess my question is more about the subwoofer itself. I have a Klipsch 800 soundbar with a seperate powered sub. The sub has an LPE input on it. I am wondering if I can use that sub to hook up to my vintage receiver using the loc80? Or is it more likely the subwoofer will only work with its matching soundbar? The subwoofer does not have any external crossover adjustments or any volume controls either.
@@NemoPropaganda ok, thank you. I’m still learning and doing research and I’ve come to the same conclusion as you. I guess I’m in the market for a few speakers and an amp.
I have two questions if you don't mind: 1. it can also be done with regular sound cable right? 2. my tiny amplifier has only L and R speaker level ourput. And my sub has 4 low level input. Question is do I need to connect all 4 of them? or just two should work
@@Unokobi oh okay, then you don't need this item. You would just run speaker wire from your amps L&R speaker terminals to the high level input of your sub.
technically I believe that will work but I did not test this product in a full range application so can't speak to it's fidelity or potential noise in a full range application.
anybody skilled in amplifier repair should be able to do that so long as their is phsyical space to do so, depending on the product the cost & labor may or may not make sense. I have seen people add all kinds of things to vintage amps like sub outputs and even HDMI ARC so it certainly can be done.
If I have an integrated amp that doesn’t have Pre-outs, but I want to use it as a pre-amplifier and connect it to a power amplifier, can this be the solution for that?
You can but I didn't test it that way so I don't know how it will impact sound. If you need an extremely inexpensive option to control the volume of a preamp check out the $49 Schiit SYS.
Would it he possible to connect 2 subwoofers to my tube amplifier with this? I currently have a Polk Psw111. I found someone selling a cheap Psw111 on fb marketplace. Thanks in advance.
hi all, I am currently setting up REL 3D HT with three HT line subwoofers. Would this device work to give my subwoofers high-level input? REL says that the 1510 Predator can get high-level input by using their Airship wireless technology. I don't need wireless as my 2 Predators are right next to my AV receiver. Would this be an alternative? Thank you!
So you want to use these to run high level to your front subs so they're acting as an extension of your main speakers and then run LFE to a third sub that's located behind you? If I'm understanding you correctly then yes you could use 2 of these to accomplish that for your 2 front subs.
@@NemoPropaganda Many thanks! Indeed, I intend to use this as you described it. Would you recommend connecting the LOC80 with 1-Male to 2-Male RCA Y splitter? So, I plug into both RCA outputs of the LOC80 and connect the single RCA end to the REL subwoofer?
@@kefehu2 if you want them to be stereo you'd just use 1 LOC80 and left side RCA goes to left side subwoofer and right side RCA goes to right side subwoofer. No need for any Y splitters.
@@NemoPropaganda Thank you. I have the 2 Predators stacked on top of each other. The sales guy from REL suggested that I connect the bottom 1510 to my front L+R speakers and to the LFE of my AV receiver. I was also advised to connect the top Predator to my center speaker (no LFE for this). So I will have only one RCA input available for the bottom Predator. That's why I was thinking about using the Y splitter. Many thanks!
You have to be careful with those cheap LOC's as they can distort even before getting a signal. Steve Meade did some testing with a scope for some receipts. Kicker hands down makes the best budget one reaching 7.4volts of clean distortion free signal out. Model line is the KISLOC series. Although with higher wattage the KISLOAD 2 series would be better for home audio use.
Russound adp 1.2 work very well. They take 250 watt rms so no worries of to much power. On crutchfield for 38 bucks. Steve Meade has tested a lot of these and they are junk. He has his own that tested very well
yeah, they're not ideal of course, hence the suggestion that they be just fine for more affordable systems. Steves is nice but approaches the cost of a MiniDSP. I'm not familiar with the russsound option but that looks promistion for just a few more dollars.
After doing lots of online research, I ordered the Russound adp 1.2. I found a video on TH-cam explaining that this one works for home cinema applications. Problem with car audio accessories is that they have been designed for 12 V systems.
My amp only has a preset LFE, but I want a Rythmik sub, and all the literature I can find says that you have to control the Rythmik's crossover and phase through the amp when using LFE. This looks like it will be the perfect solution for me while I save up for a better replacement.
Thanks for sharing.
I had a similar problem but I just used two rca splitters on my dac output so set goes to the amp and the other to my active sub. It seems to work fine.
I think this is moreso for people with sources that dont have volume control (turntable, cd player, most dacs)
You just split your voltage in half, sounds like it worked fine for you but it could cause problems for some setups where you might run out of volume too early.
So, funny story. I was doing the same using two y splitters from my preamp output, with one set of RCA outs going to my power amp, and the other set going through another y-splitter backwards to join them into a single sub RCA, which is what my powered sub required. I just couldn't figure out why my left/right fader wasn't working properly on the preamp. Then I realized, I created a loop in the RCAs, playing both channels through both speakers. I was wondering why my soundstage was totally flat!
Thanks!
thank you!
Question: Is there a risk of damaging the amp/sub? A couple of posts on ASR say: "There are many amps that operate in BTL mode, so both speaker terminals are outputting half the signal each. In this case you don't want to connect the black terminal to the RCA ring / ground with the risk of the audio pixies sending up the emergency smoke signals." I think a lot of digital amps work this way internally. I understand some line converters have this issue, others don't. I can find no specs on most of them.
If you set the gain to high yes you can damage things . My advise is look at the voltage range of your subwoofers low level input. And then use a test time and a multimeter and set the gains to give you the voltage output on the loc to to safely set gains.
Yeah, there are some different designs but I expect anyone with a n on standard amp to know the difference, I also expect manufacturers to mark those terminals blue instead of black which is what they're supposed to do. Black denots ground, if its not ground and instead hot 180 then it should be blue.
Just got one of these and a Rolls SX-95 for level and crossover control, so that I could combine L/R signal with LFE signal to the two RCA inputs on my SVS SB16. I get that sounds crazy at first, but I want a way to use my sub when running the receiver in direct mode. Direct mode is critical for stereo playback on receivers because they all resample digital sources to 48khz before processing bass management, and even worse, for analog signals, they use garbage A/D conversion to add bass management, then convert back to analog, and a lot of sound quality is lost. My receiver does not have individual channel line-outs, so I couldn't use those to source the L/R signal to the sub. So the goal was to use old-school speaker-level to RCA conversion for L/R and maintain the LFE RCA input when watching surround sources. I need to play with it more, but I have found some mild phase issues as the L/R source blends with any LFE or bass-managed signal on the LFE input. Playing with phase on the Rolls and with speaker distance settings in the receiver has helped a bit. Also, with the scosche and Rolls plugged into the sub, the sub will never turn off, meaning there's some kind of interference or inaudible hum that is confusing the sub into thinking there's a signal. Definitely some kinks to work out. Eventually, I will upgrade my receiver to something with full line level outputs, but working with what I have for now. I'll do anything to avoid the dreaded resample. Direct sounds worlds better, I just need my bass, too!
Thank you for this - I bought the LOC80 (it was only $10) to connect a sub with line level inputs only to a vintage NAD receiver. The receiver has the old spring-loaded speaker connectors, and "A" and "B" speaker connections. Would it be better to wrap the wires of the LOC80 around my existing speaker wire within the spring loaded clip, or use the LOC80 with the "B" speaker connectors on its own and use the "A+B" speaker output option? Thanks again - enjoy all your videos
B set should be fine as long as your amp doesn't reduce the volume when you use the b set. Some older AVR's used to do that.
Great tip! If my subwoofer only has 1 RCA input, should I only use 1 RCA out of the LOC, or combine the signals from the LOC into 1 for my sub??? thanks!
I'm not sure, I have not used a sub like that before.
As it seems as though you're essentially running this in parallel with your speakers, what impact does it have on impedance?
Should be a small fraction of an ohm so no issue.
This is good to know. My only question is, could this adapter be overloaded (burned up) by the high power coming from some amplifiers?
Yes, it has a limit of 80w RMS.
@@NemoPropaganda OK. That might be a consideration.
@@bikdav keep in mind you'll rarely use that much sustained power, that's seriously loud in most rooms with most reasonable to drive speakers.
Huh,, smart gizmo,, 👍😎👍
I did not know it existed and I have never needed one, but you never know,, 🤔
Cheers and thanks Nemo,, 🍻🙏🍻
Great informative video! I have a vintage 70’s sansui 661, 2 channels. I have speakers on A and B channels. Can I add this to one of the channels already being used for speakers .
yes absolutely, as long as that set is active, like if you connect this to the B Set you cannot have the knob set to A set only for example but it's totally okay to plug this into the same terminals that speakers are going to, that's how most people would connect this.
@@NemoPropagandathank you so much! I am getting my old system up and running after 20 years dormant. I’m using my old refurbished receiver and old pioneer pl-12D turntable that I also refurbished, adding new Klipsch speakers and a subwoofer. I’m trying to catch up on the new stuff out there, and your channel is a huge help. In the mean time, I’m doing a lot of record cleaning!
@@ljsites that's awesome!! I hope you're enjoying the process!!
Great video nemo I have a tube amplifier that I adore but it'd a purist piece with no sub out and this method will allow me umto use a sub with that amp so thank you
enjoy!
I have this product.
And my subwoofer sound fantastic.
But Having phase issues with the rest of my system. Still playing around with it I will give you an update
Update to my original comment I Had electrician come in.
And And the polarity on the outlet was reversed so everything is fine now
Super valuable video thanks a lot i wanna ask you i found a divice like this in video but they say max input 50w but my amplifier out is 100w will be this problem?
I used it with the CHoco amp thats 135w/channel and it was fine, you'll rarely be outputting the max power of your amplifier. But if you're really cranking the volume always and you know you'll be exceeding the desigin limitations of the product for sure then it might be best to just sell what you have and buy an amp with sub-out or pre-outs instead or find another solution.
Hi, relatively new in the audio enthusiast hobby and I was wondering if that solution would allow the subwoofer volume level to be synchronized with the speakers volume level. (you mention high level, maybe this is what it is ?..) Thank you for any insight...
Yes you are correct, high level is the speaker terminals on the back of the amp, so the same plugs you plug your speaker wire into, both left & right.
yes correct, high level is the speaker terminals on the back of the amp.
I have a couple of mark 4 dynaco mono block amps, I am building a 6sn7 tube preamp would this product be suitable to add to the preamp output for a sub woofer?
I do not know enough about internal circuitry to feel comfortable answering this question and would rather be honest and say: I don't know.
I have an RS 202 , and Micca MB42X. Will I be able to connect an Edifier T5 subwoofer using the LOC80? If yes, does the RCA cables go in Line In of the subwoofer or Line Out? I know its a stupid question
rca to subwoofer rca input.
Do you think I can use this on a vintage receiver to use my B channel speaker wires, then using the RCA outputs on the loc80 to convert to LFE and use that to plug into a powered subwoofer? In other words, use the loc80 into a powered LFE subwoofer?
I'm not sure I fully understand the question but the LOC80 only transmits signal, not power. You can use it to add a sub-out to your b set or a set, doesn't matter.
@@NemoPropaganda thank you for the reply and sorry I wasn’t very clear. I understand how the loc80 works, I guess my question is more about the subwoofer itself. I have a Klipsch 800 soundbar with a seperate powered sub. The sub has an LPE input on it. I am wondering if I can use that sub to hook up to my vintage receiver using the loc80? Or is it more likely the subwoofer will only work with its matching soundbar? The subwoofer does not have any external crossover adjustments or any volume controls either.
@@65427 oh, no that's not going to work, you won't have any way of dialing in the phase, xover, or gain.
@@NemoPropaganda ok, thank you. I’m still learning and doing research and I’ve come to the same conclusion as you. I guess I’m in the market for a few speakers and an amp.
I've used these in my car stereo since when i started out driving some 16 years ago 😋
I have two questions if you don't mind:
1. it can also be done with regular sound cable right?
2. my tiny amplifier has only L and R speaker level ourput. And my sub has 4 low level input. Question is do I need to connect all 4 of them? or just two should work
are you sure your sub doesn't have 2 inputs and 2 outputs? I've never seen a sub with 4 rca inputs.
@@NemoPropaganda sorry it was a mistake. I mean to say my sub has 4 high level input. Not low level
@@NemoPropaganda Its Axiom EP350 V3
@@Unokobi oh okay, then you don't need this item. You would just run speaker wire from your amps L&R speaker terminals to the high level input of your sub.
@@NemoPropaganda I did that but no sound came out from sub (its powered and I can hear it)
Can I use this to run a vintage recover with speaker out to my powered speakers? I am wondering if it will help eliminate any hum?
technically I believe that will work but I did not test this product in a full range application so can't speak to it's fidelity or potential noise in a full range application.
I'm a little late to the party, but can this be used to put a home audio sub in a truck. I'm just dying to take my E15hp2 for a ride in my new truck😀
yeah but only to send signal, you'd still need to provide AC power to the plate amplifier somehow.
Can a sub output be added to active speakers? Soldered onto amplifier board?
anybody skilled in amplifier repair should be able to do that so long as their is phsyical space to do so, depending on the product the cost & labor may or may not make sense. I have seen people add all kinds of things to vintage amps like sub outputs and even HDMI ARC so it certainly can be done.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks, will ask a local technician if it's possible for my active speakers.
If I have an integrated amp that doesn’t have Pre-outs, but I want to use it as a pre-amplifier and connect it to a power amplifier, can this be the solution for that?
You can but I didn't test it that way so I don't know how it will impact sound. If you need an extremely inexpensive option to control the volume of a preamp check out the $49 Schiit SYS.
Would it he possible to connect 2 subwoofers to my tube amplifier with this? I currently have a Polk Psw111. I found someone selling a cheap Psw111 on fb marketplace. Thanks in advance.
if you do L&R stereo subs then yes you can use 1 of these to connect 2 subs. Left RCA cable goes to left sub and right rca cable goes to right sub.
@@NemoPropaganda ok great! Thank you so much. It on sale now for $10. I got it plugged in yesterday and it works as you said. Thanks again!🤘
Hi iş it possible to use it for my Naim nap 110 power amp which is currently used to connect my main epos speakers
I'm not familiar enough with Naim amplifiers so I can't really be sure.
hi all, I am currently setting up REL 3D HT with three HT line subwoofers. Would this device work to give my subwoofers high-level input? REL says that the 1510 Predator can get high-level input by using their Airship wireless technology. I don't need wireless as my 2 Predators are right next to my AV receiver. Would this be an alternative? Thank you!
So you want to use these to run high level to your front subs so they're acting as an extension of your main speakers and then run LFE to a third sub that's located behind you? If I'm understanding you correctly then yes you could use 2 of these to accomplish that for your 2 front subs.
@@NemoPropaganda Many thanks! Indeed, I intend to use this as you described it. Would you recommend connecting the LOC80 with 1-Male to 2-Male RCA Y splitter? So, I plug into both RCA outputs of the LOC80 and connect the single RCA end to the REL subwoofer?
@@kefehu2 if you want them to be stereo you'd just use 1 LOC80 and left side RCA goes to left side subwoofer and right side RCA goes to right side subwoofer. No need for any Y splitters.
@@NemoPropaganda Thank you. I have the 2 Predators stacked on top of each other. The sales guy from REL suggested that I connect the bottom 1510 to my front L+R speakers and to the LFE of my AV receiver. I was also advised to connect the top Predator to my center speaker (no LFE for this). So I will have only one RCA input available for the bottom Predator. That's why I was thinking about using the Y splitter. Many thanks!
You have to be careful with those cheap LOC's as they can distort even before getting a signal. Steve Meade did some testing with a scope for some receipts. Kicker hands down makes the best budget one reaching 7.4volts of clean distortion free signal out. Model line is the KISLOC series. Although with higher wattage the KISLOAD 2 series would be better for home audio use.
Kisload2 doesn't look like it converts to RCA, did you mean KISLOC?
@@NemoPropaganda Yeah, sorry I failed to notice the Kisload is meant for a different scenario.
Thanks for this information
A couple alternitives to Rode would be DJI or Deity.
I use my iphone to film so it really limits my options :( most of the good mics need a preamp.
NICE!
Russound adp 1.2 work very well. They take 250 watt rms so no worries of to much power. On crutchfield for 38 bucks. Steve Meade has tested a lot of these and they are junk. He has his own that tested very well
yeah, they're not ideal of course, hence the suggestion that they be just fine for more affordable systems. Steves is nice but approaches the cost of a MiniDSP. I'm not familiar with the russsound option but that looks promistion for just a few more dollars.
After doing lots of online research, I ordered the Russound adp 1.2. I found a video on TH-cam explaining that this one works for home cinema applications. Problem with car audio accessories is that they have been designed for 12 V systems.
Gracias!
Good idea.
Did you just upgrade your mic? lol
super tip
“Ass-Hat”! 😂 Love that bro! 🙏🏽 Cool topic. Thanks bro! 💪🏽🎶‼️
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
A cheap, garbage product. Wire the subwoofer(s) in parallel to the main speaker posts. Done.
I think you missed the point, many subs do not accept that kind of connection method. How would you do that to an RSL 10E, REL 1003 or SVS SB2000 Pro?
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻