Head over to Fictiv and check out all their great capabilities and super easy process for uploading and quoting parts. Use code "Fischer3D" at check out to get 10% off your order. bit.ly/fischer3d-fictiv
Great video! Your OrcaSlicer videos are super helpful for a noob like me whos just got into 3d printing and wants to start right off fiddling with the OrcaSlicer from scratch. Please keep making more such videos whichever you feel are useful. Thank you.
Finally i found the right explanation, im new to this slicer, got the ender3ve-ke, and i haven't been able to make a clean print, and easy support removel, I'm frustrated, BUT this video will help me at LOT. THANKS.
Just started testing this. One thing that I've noticed using trees is that Z-Hop is now a thing. My initial print attempts kept knocking 1 or 2 of the smaller trees over during nozzle travel. Adding 1MM of Z hop when retracting seems to have sorted it on my SV07 Plus and Ender. I also upped the First layer density to 100% for better adhesion (better safe than sorry). Oh yes, the new appimage works great on Linux Mint.
Organic supports have been a great help! I print miniatures and typically use a solid raft layer on the bottom to help trees adhere (sadly I haven’t been able to figure out how to enable rafts that cover the area of a model like that on orca slicer)
thank you so much for these videos, I feel like no one talks about orca besides the basics and I've been wanting to get an in depth tutorial to what each of these settings mean and how it reflects on the print, I have a custom made printer based off a VZBOT and ive been doing close to 600 mm/s at 25k accel but want to understand the slicer better
Hmm. hard to tell without seeing a pic. What's your "top z distance" set to on the support tab? You'd want some multiple of your layer height, like 0.2mm for example. Also, take a look at the number of "Top Interface Layers" and "Top Interface Spacing" on the same tab. I like using 2 interface layers and 0.5mm spacing to minimize the amount of surface area touching the print.
I noticed your hulk figure looks like it is solid inside. do you recommend building organic supports within hollow models itself to prevent failed prints?
I'm sure that 100% infill was a carry over from a previous model i was printing. I generally don't find that adding organic supports inside is needed. I do actually try and use as little infill as possible for most prints. I find 5 to 10% for most is more than efficient as long as I'm printing with 3 walls.
Hey thanks. Yeah one of the parts I print a lot of actually prints upside down. So on the Strength tab I have 0 top shell layers, 8 bottom layers (really the top), 0 infill, but 3 walls. So in actuality it is a solid print, just printed upside down. I do this to save time on support material.
The only way I see to do this would be once sliced, in the upper right corner, select "export Sliced file". This saves it as a 3mf file. Then you'd probably have to find some 3mf to stl converter.
ah ha. it's because it's not a bambu printer. super odd they would do this. see if you can trick it. select a bambu printer as your printer, resliced the file and check that menu again.
Head over to Fictiv and check out all their great capabilities and super easy process for uploading and quoting parts. Use code "Fischer3D" at check out to get 10% off your order.
bit.ly/fischer3d-fictiv
Great video! Your OrcaSlicer videos are super helpful for a noob like me whos just got into 3d printing and wants to start right off fiddling with the OrcaSlicer from scratch. Please keep making more such videos whichever you feel are useful. Thank you.
very helpful video.
Finally i found the right explanation, im new to this slicer, got the ender3ve-ke, and i haven't been able to make a clean print, and easy support removel, I'm frustrated, BUT this video will help me at LOT. THANKS.
Just started testing this. One thing that I've noticed using trees is that Z-Hop is now a thing. My initial print attempts kept knocking 1 or 2 of the smaller trees over during nozzle travel. Adding 1MM of Z hop when retracting seems to have sorted it on my SV07 Plus and Ender. I also upped the First layer density to 100% for better adhesion (better safe than sorry). Oh yes, the new appimage works great on Linux Mint.
Great callout! z-hop should probably be enabled, if not already when using tree supports.
Organic supports have been a great help! I print miniatures and typically use a solid raft layer on the bottom to help trees adhere (sadly I haven’t been able to figure out how to enable rafts that cover the area of a model like that on orca slicer)
thank you so much for these videos, I feel like no one talks about orca besides the basics and I've been wanting to get an in depth tutorial to what each of these settings mean and how it reflects on the print, I have a custom made printer based off a VZBOT and ive been doing close to 600 mm/s at 25k accel but want to understand the slicer better
What are the differences between the default tree supports and the organic tree ones?
hey man thank you for this tutorial! i am having problems with my tree supports it leaves a weird marks on my print what should i do?
Hmm. hard to tell without seeing a pic. What's your "top z distance" set to on the support tab? You'd want some multiple of your layer height, like 0.2mm for example. Also, take a look at the number of "Top Interface Layers" and "Top Interface Spacing" on the same tab. I like using 2 interface layers and 0.5mm spacing to minimize the amount of surface area touching the print.
I noticed your hulk figure looks like it is solid inside. do you recommend building organic supports within hollow models itself to prevent failed prints?
I'm sure that 100% infill was a carry over from a previous model i was printing. I generally don't find that adding organic supports inside is needed. I do actually try and use as little infill as possible for most prints. I find 5 to 10% for most is more than efficient as long as I'm printing with 3 walls.
Hey man. Love your channel. I see that your slice has no top layer ? Just inner wall and outer wall? How did you manage that ?
Hey thanks. Yeah one of the parts I print a lot of actually prints upside down. So on the Strength tab I have 0 top shell layers, 8 bottom layers (really the top), 0 infill, but 3 walls. So in actuality it is a solid print, just printed upside down. I do this to save time on support material.
Hi. Can I export the organic support as a separate stl, OR can I export the organic supported model into an stl or obj?
The only way I see to do this would be once sliced, in the upper right corner, select "export Sliced file". This saves it as a 3mf file. Then you'd probably have to find some 3mf to stl converter.
@@fischer3d Ther is no "export Sliced file" option there....only Export Gcode or Print
interesting. what version of Orca are you running?
@@fischer3d 2.0.0 , export options screen> drive.google.com/file/d/1S85I9nKGhuo_wNLjvf4WH3W25Npswg3m/view?usp=sharing
ah ha. it's because it's not a bambu printer. super odd they would do this. see if you can trick it. select a bambu printer as your printer, resliced the file and check that menu again.