Late to the game. Just getting to wiring mine up. Having trouble understanding the power connections as described in the instructions but you start after that part. As someone mentioned below less time on tinning and more showning where the connections were made. Thanks for the video. I enjoy your channel, I will check out your other bitx40 vids.
Thanks for the Bitx40 overview. I. Finished mine last week and in many ways we are on the same "page" I hard wired my mic and passed the shielded (yes I used shielded) through a gromet hole in the case. I mounted a power pole in the case and having enough room in the case, I selected to house a 5ah AGM battery. I wanted to mount an SO239 but didn't have a large enough hole making device so I went with the supplied BNC and the SO239 adapter as you did. I also decided on a mini toggle for power on/off. I just didn't like the volume control switch. All plugs and controls are on the front (except for a flush battery tender charging port in the rear. Conventionally, most radios have power and antenna connections in the rear. I wanted the option to lay it on it's back, side or bottom. I've had a few qso's so far and am happy with this neat little project. The Bitx40 group is hacking the radio to death to minimize some of the little quirks. If you have a few days, give them a look. Keep up the good work Dave. I'm new to the hobby at 74, a 60 year SWL'r licensed in 2014, General and Extra in 2015.
Mike, thanks for the information. My little plastic case is intended to be temporary while I learn more about what I want. Indeed, the BITX group is so busy that I'm overwhelmed with posts. It's hard to keep track of who's doing what. I plan a couple more videos on my unit to come out very soon. 73, Dave, KEØOG
Thanks David, just got a Paypal shipping confirmation from hfsig that my bitx-40 has been shipped. Your videos are very helpful and much appreciated. '73 Bob
nice dave. i plan on getting one of these, it be nice you can post some photos, notes, fixes any changes you make we can use as reference when we get ours to build. once you have completed the build .. 73's k7sce
Scott, there's a *very* active discussion group at groups.io/g/BITX20. Don't let the "20" get in the way, as most of the discussion nowadays is about the BITX-40. 73, Dave
Thank you David! This video is getting me a step closer to figuring this thing out. I'm curious did the docuemnts you show in the video come with your Bitx40? Mine did not come with any instructions and I am searching like crazy trying to figure out where I can find these details!
David, I appreciate you and your videos, thanks! I have the BITX-40 but do not understand one item. There is a jack or output for a PA Power (power amplifier) of 12vts. There is a connector supplied with two wires. The drawing simply has those two wires going directly to 12 vt. no switch, no nothing in between. Then, there is mention that you run the 12 vt through the on/off switch then out to the PA Power jack. The sentence is not correct nor written properly and it throws me. I guess it boils down to this: once I plug that two lead plug on the socket that is called out for PW Power, where do the two wires go? I dont understand the write up which states you can use an external power amp? Again: I have a 12vt mention on the drawing going to that plug with two wires directly on the board YET I have the directions on the first page telling me I should run a parallel line through the on/off switch for the power amp.......sorry, I am as confused as this poorly written question: 73's. Greg
Yes, you connect those two wires to the power supply at the on-off switch. However, if you want more power out, you can feed the final amp with more voltage. But note that you will have to provide a much larger heat sink for the final. Best to just feed it with 12v if you don't feel comfortable making mods to the heat sink.
Hi Dave! This is VU2RJV handle Rajaram from India. Awesome video as usual. Thanks. Could you also do a few videos on the UBITX released recently. Thanks in advance. 73.
I plan to as soon as I get it. I ordered on the 10th of December with DHL shipping. It is now the 20th and I still have no shipping number. I spoke with Ashar Farhan on the W5KUB show last night and he says it's close to shipping. As soon as I get it, I'll start putting together videos about it.
Definitely a dipole. Get it as high in the air as you can. If you only have one tall point, you can use it to hold the feedpoint in the air and then the ends can go down pretty much down to ground level, though it's a good idea to keep them high enough in the air that someone wandering through won't hit them. Pretty much all other wire antennas aren't really any better than a dipole. If you've got the space, go for it! 73, Dave
Dave, I know what you mean "busy" and "overwhelming" I know nothing about code writing and the raduino. In my opinion, too many are trying to fix/hack/mod a simple radio. It's no Elecraft. If you ever get to play with yours, I like to have users evaluate the rigs operation and possibly suggest 5 or so "must do" mods that enhance the usability without re-designing everything. Yes the flutter is annoying, as is the clicking. But it's not a show stopper. No agc, no big deal to me, no transmit light, no big deal etc etc. i would like to make mine smaller. Not as tiny as your temporary shipping case. But smaller than my rather large one. However, mine does hold the 12vdc, 5AH battery just fine. So that would mean an external power source. Have you tried a small switching supply? If so does it work? Recommendations are for a more substantial supply. So much to learn. 73
Thanks for the video, I only wished you had taken more time about where the wires actually go. For example pause and explain what wires aren't used. The manual doesn't explain that. Also wiring the potentiometers the diagram leaves me wander from what side the view is. Your video zapped over that. Lastly what pins to connect on the audio jacks. Yes tip about pre-tinning is great but no need to explain that multiple times. Rather would have seen / heard more detail about the actual wiring.
Late to the game. Just getting to wiring mine up. Having trouble understanding the power connections as described in the instructions but you start after that part. As someone mentioned below less time on tinning and more showning where the connections were made. Thanks for the video. I enjoy your channel, I will check out your other bitx40 vids.
Thanks for the Bitx40 overview. I. Finished mine last week and in many ways we are on the same "page" I hard wired my mic and passed the shielded (yes I used shielded) through a gromet hole in the case. I mounted a power pole in the case and having enough room in the case, I selected to house a 5ah AGM battery. I wanted to mount an SO239 but didn't have a large enough hole making device so I went with the supplied BNC and the SO239 adapter as you did. I also decided on a mini toggle for power on/off. I just didn't like the volume control switch. All plugs and controls are on the front (except for a flush battery tender charging port in the rear. Conventionally, most radios have power and antenna connections in the rear. I wanted the option to lay it on it's back, side or bottom. I've had a few qso's so far and am happy with this neat little project. The Bitx40 group is hacking the radio to death to minimize some of the little quirks. If you have a few days, give them a look. Keep up the good work Dave. I'm new to the hobby at 74, a 60 year SWL'r licensed in 2014, General and Extra in 2015.
Mike, thanks for the information. My little plastic case is intended to be temporary while I learn more about what I want. Indeed, the BITX group is so busy that I'm overwhelmed with posts. It's hard to keep track of who's doing what. I plan a couple more videos on my unit to come out very soon. 73, Dave, KEØOG
Thanks David, just got a Paypal shipping confirmation from hfsig that my bitx-40 has been shipped. Your videos are very helpful and much appreciated. '73 Bob
Thanks Dave. Nice demonstration of the real world.
nice dave. i plan on getting one of these, it be nice you can post some photos, notes, fixes any changes you make
we can use as reference when we get ours to build. once you have completed the build ..
73's k7sce
Scott, there's a *very* active discussion group at groups.io/g/BITX20. Don't let the "20" get in the way, as most of the discussion nowadays is about the BITX-40. 73, Dave
Thank you David! This video is getting me a step closer to figuring this thing out. I'm curious did the docuemnts you show in the video come with your Bitx40? Mine did not come with any instructions and I am searching like crazy trying to figure out where I can find these details!
The document is downloadable from the web page. See www.hfsignals.com/index.php/2017/11/23/wiring-up-the-bitx40/. Good luck with your project!
a small heatsink will help the 7805 cool also the 27 pf cap add on works great c vk3ye mod kg6mn
Very good video David, tnx!!!!
73's de CO6EGM/W5 (Houston, Tx)
David, I appreciate you and your videos, thanks! I have the BITX-40 but do not understand one item. There is a jack or output for a PA Power (power amplifier) of 12vts. There is a connector supplied with two wires. The drawing simply has those two wires going directly to 12 vt. no switch, no nothing in between. Then, there is mention that you run the 12 vt through the on/off switch then out to the PA Power jack. The sentence is not correct nor written properly and it throws me. I guess it boils down to this: once I plug that two lead plug on the socket that is called out for PW Power, where do the two wires go? I dont understand the write up which states you can use an external power amp? Again: I have a 12vt mention on the drawing going to that plug with two wires directly on the board YET I have the directions on the first page telling me I should run a parallel line through the on/off switch for the power amp.......sorry, I am as confused as this poorly written question: 73's.
Greg
Yes, you connect those two wires to the power supply at the on-off switch. However, if you want more power out, you can feed the final amp with more voltage. But note that you will have to provide a much larger heat sink for the final. Best to just feed it with 12v if you don't feel comfortable making mods to the heat sink.
Hi Dave! This is VU2RJV handle Rajaram from India. Awesome video as usual. Thanks. Could you also do a few videos on the UBITX released recently. Thanks in advance. 73.
I plan to as soon as I get it. I ordered on the 10th of December with DHL shipping. It is now the 20th and I still have no shipping number. I spoke with Ashar Farhan on the W5KUB show last night and he says it's close to shipping. As soon as I get it, I'll start putting together videos about it.
My BitX40 just arrived this afternoon! Any additional advice on assembly?
Take your time and triple-check everything!
David Casler, thanks a lot. I did it and it worked from the beginning.
Thanks for sharing, really enjoy your videos. Glad I subscribed!!
Welcome to the channel! 73, Dave
Great that you could make a contact. Maybe I missed it but what antenna is connected? Is it your usual antenna just into the SO-239?
Regards, KV4LL
+JL Software Yes, it's my vertical. 73
Thanks for the video.
Where did you get the printed assembly instructions?
I printed them from hfsigs.com
Thanks Dave!!!!
What dedicated home-brew (budget building) antenna would you recommend for this for maximum effect? I have a big yard (football field size).
Definitely a dipole. Get it as high in the air as you can. If you only have one tall point, you can use it to hold the feedpoint in the air and then the ends can go down pretty much down to ground level, though it's a good idea to keep them high enough in the air that someone wandering through won't hit them. Pretty much all other wire antennas aren't really any better than a dipole. If you've got the space, go for it! 73, Dave
Dave, I know what you mean "busy" and "overwhelming" I know nothing about code writing and the raduino. In my opinion, too many are trying to fix/hack/mod a simple radio. It's no Elecraft. If you ever get to play with yours, I like to have users evaluate the rigs operation and possibly suggest 5 or so "must do" mods that enhance the usability without re-designing everything. Yes the flutter is annoying, as is the clicking. But it's not a show stopper. No agc, no big deal to me, no transmit light, no big deal etc etc. i would like to make mine smaller. Not as tiny as your temporary shipping case. But smaller than my rather large one. However, mine does hold the 12vdc, 5AH battery just fine. So that would mean an external power source. Have you tried a small switching supply? If so does it work? Recommendations are for a more substantial supply. So much to learn. 73
+Mike Davis I'll address this in an upcoming video.
I bought one and have not done anything with it yet.
Hi Ade, good to hear from you again. 73, Dave
Thanks for the video, I only wished you had taken more time about where the wires actually go. For example pause and explain what wires aren't used. The manual doesn't explain that. Also wiring the potentiometers the diagram leaves me wander from what side the view is. Your video zapped over that. Lastly what pins to connect on the audio jacks. Yes tip about pre-tinning is great but no need to explain that multiple times. Rather would have seen / heard more detail about the actual wiring.
did anyone notice the display screen looks pretty chewed up . ?
That's likely because I hadn't yet taken the plastic off the display.